(Deep sigh)

       Toke me a minute or so to find the same thing he did. Type cnc router into
the search field at Instructables. Look for lessions 1 and 2. You'll find
reference to   http://buildyourcnc.com/default.aspx
There you'll find step by step instructions in building. As well as how to use
>>>MACH 3<<< software.
       My question is, if you can't click a mouse, how you gona build a router?
       Oh, the steppers and hardware? I got mine from a surplus site a few years
ago, before I even thought of building a router. I knew years ago one day I'd
retire and have time on my hands and if I didn't collect stuff back then, I
wouldn't have it to work with now.

GaryR    Luke: I don't believe it!  Yoda: THAT...is why you fail.




--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "bob_chilinski" <chilly@...> wrote:
>
>
> Spill the beans inquiring minds want to know.  What did you use to drive the
steppers?  I have about 20-30 from old copiers I'd like to play with.
>
>              Bob
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "oldstudentmsgt" <wmrmeyers@> wrote:
> >
> > And no plans? ;)
> >
> > Not to mention the write-up on how you put it together!
> >
> > good going, btw. I've been trying to put my workshop together enough to get
into it for almost 2 years, now, and here you go and build a machine in what,
less than a week?
> >
> > I have GOT to get a move on!
> >
> > Bill in OKC
> >
> > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@> wrote:
> > >
> > > What, no link to the carving machine?  And no pictures?
> > >
> > > On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 1:58 AM, ronstrand66 <ronstrand66@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Again I want to thank everyone for their suggestions, some were real
good
> > > > and some would have taken months to make a plaque. What I finally did
was go
> > > > to Instructables and found a simple CNC router carving machine and
modified
> > > > the plans to fit. I made a machine which carves a sheet of wood, foam or
> > > > plastic 3 feet by 4 feet and 3 inches thick. I went to a local business
> > > > machine company and talked them out of several old copiers for motors,
used
> > > > steel and aluminum for the frame and screen door rollers as guides. So
far
> > > > it seems to cut accurately and fine. Cost was about $115. This machine
also
> > > > carves patterns or pictures (I did our logo), so could be used for
almost
> > > > anything. I am ready to cast my first 2 plaques this weekend. Wish me
luck.
> > > > Thanks again
> > > > Ron
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Nick A
> > >
> > > "You know what I wish?  I wish that all the scum of the world had but a
> > > single throat, and I had my hands about it..."  Rorschach, 1975
> > >
> > > "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety
> > > deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review
> > > of Pennsylvania, 1759
> > >
> > > "Suburbia is where the developer bulldozes out the trees, then names the
> > > streets after them." Bill Vaughan
> > >
> > > "The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men."
> > > Plato
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

I'll spill the beans.  These are office type copiers, larger then home
copiers.  The ones I got were Cannon's.  Here is how you do it.  Call all of the
copier repair/sales places around and ask if they have any copiers they plan on
junking.  They are more then happy to have you take them off there hands then
have to pay to have them taken away.  If I remember correctly they each had at
least 3 nema 17 type motor's 1-3 Amps.  They had the power chips for the motors
but nothing I could find to easily driver them.  They also had several small
steppers, DC motors, Fans, and all king of hardware (screws, shafts, gears,
springs, clips etc....)  I actually took the frames, and some of the sheet metal
and the casters and made several roll around carts.   One even had a stapler
which I made into a neat little electric stapler.

              Good luck   Bob

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <drescher3@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of copy machines do you get these motors from?  Are they from the
huge industrial type, or the little home office types?
>
> Dave D
> http://metalshop.homestead.com
>
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "bob_chilinski" <chilly@> wrote:
> >
> >    More info.... I want to see the links too?  What did you use to drive the
steppers?  I built a Joe's 4X4 hybrid CNC last year.  Does a great job cutting
out foam patterns to cast. I also scrapped a few copiers and have around 20-30
steppers laying around.  My problem is the driver I used cost over $100.  Makes
it tough to build a decent machine for $15, even using tin cans and wire ties
:).
> >
> >         Thanks Bob
> >
> > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@> wrote:
> > >
> > > What, no link to the carving machine?  And no pictures?
> > >
> > > On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 1:58 AM, ronstrand66 <ronstrand66@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Again I want to thank everyone for their suggestions, some were real
good
> > > > and some would have taken months to make a plaque. What I finally did
was go
> > > > to Instructables and found a simple CNC router carving machine and
modified
> > > > the plans to fit. I made a machine which carves a sheet of wood, foam or
> > > > plastic 3 feet by 4 feet and 3 inches thick. I went to a local business
> > > > machine company and talked them out of several old copiers for motors,
used
> > > > steel and aluminum for the frame and screen door rollers as guides. So
far
> > > > it seems to cut accurately and fine. Cost was about $115. This machine
also
> > > > carves patterns or pictures (I did our logo), so could be used for
almost
> > > > anything. I am ready to cast my first 2 plaques this weekend. Wish me
luck.
> > > > Thanks again
> > > > Ron
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Nick A
> > >
> > > "You know what I wish?  I wish that all the scum of the world had but a
> > > single throat, and I had my hands about it..."  Rorschach, 1975
> > >
> > > "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety
> > > deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review
> > > of Pennsylvania, 1759
> > >
> > > "Suburbia is where the developer bulldozes out the trees, then names the
> > > streets after them." Bill Vaughan
> > >
> > > "The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men."
> > > Plato
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

On Mar 1, 2010, at 6:31 AM, Gary R wrote:

> Toke me a minute or so to find the same thing he did. Type cnc router into the
search field at Instructables. Look for lessions 1 and 2. You'll find reference
to http://buildyourcnc.com/default.aspx
> There you'll find step by step instructions in building.

Note that there are much simpler plans for building CNC machines on
Instructables than buildyourcnc.com.

Not that it is is a bad design, but I don't think you would be able to put it
together as quickly as Ron built his.

The link I posted suggesting Ron build a CNC machine is here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Build-Desk-Top-3-Axis-CNC-Milling-Machin\
e/

(not sure if it is the design he went with - maybe he could tell us).

That machine looks very minimal, and I would certainly beef up the design a bit
by at least having all moving parts on bearings (his acrylic plates just slide
on top of the angle aluminum). And a single bearing for each axis seems a bit
minimal to say the least. Maybe using a similar bearing design from
buildyourcnc.com. But if you just need to mill foam, and you don't need
something more accurate... If the shoe fits - wear it!

This one was supposdly $20 (but I am skeptical about that price):

http://www.instructables.com/id/20-CNC-Machine/

> There you'll find step by step instructions in building. As well as how to use
>>>MACH 3<<< software.


I am using the *free* linuxCNC to drive my machine: http://www.linuxcnc.org/

I just love it! They have a live CD so you can boot it up, check it out before
even installing. Their live CD also makes installation a snap - and includes all
of the software (and then some) you need to control a CNC machine. I bought a
dedicated bare bones machine to run it from Tiger Direct for $200 - so I can
design my files on Mac (or Windows if you prefer) and then just dump my files to
it. It is a pretty sweet setup.

Networking, VNC (screen sharing), etc. are all "builtin". So you can control it
from Windows or a Mac.

It can be customized to your hearts desire. They have a wiki page describing how
to use a $20 joystick for a control pendant for example.

I would highly recommend the software to anyone. Very helpful, lively community
as well.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

Has anyone run across any attempts to adapt a flat bed plotter for
use as a light duty CNC router? I have a Roland DPX 2000 that's been
gathering dust for 15 years because the driver cost more than I was
willing to spend. An ability to shape foam for letters and such would
be nice to have.

At 01:02 PM 3/1/2010, you wrote:

>On Mar 1, 2010, at 6:31 AM, Gary R wrote:
>
> > Toke me a minute or so to find the same thing he did. Type cnc
> router into the search field at Instructables.

Dick Morris
Anchorage, Alaska

On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:01 PM, Dick Morris wrote:

> Has anyone run across any attempts to adapt a flat bed plotter for
> use as a light duty CNC router? I have a Roland DPX 2000 that's been
> gathering dust for 15 years because the driver cost more than I was
> willing to spend. An ability to shape foam for letters and such would
> be nice to have.

Hi Dick,

Seems like it would be relatively straightforward to me. Can you show us a pic
of it? Might give me some ideas.

I would suspect that the motors are steppers. Do you know if that is the case?

If so, you should just be able to wire them up to controllers and be in
business...


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

Hello Dick,
	 Have you tried this site
<http://www.helpdrivers.com/ingles/listado/dow.asp?codigo=128406>? They
appear to have a driver for your model.
	 On the other hand there are plans available for home built router
tables that don't cost an arm and a leg to build. The JGRO model I built
last winter cost me around $1000. The electronics and software was the
major part of the cost. I had a suitable computer on hand.

Rupert


On 3/1/2010 9:01 PM, Dick Morris wrote:
> Has anyone run across any attempts to adapt a flat bed plotter for
> use as a light duty CNC router? I have a Roland DPX 2000 that's been
> gathering dust for 15 years because the driver cost more than I was
> willing to spend. An ability to shape foam for letters and such would
> be nice to have.
>
> At 01:02 PM 3/1/2010, you wrote:
>
>> On Mar 1, 2010, at 6:31 AM, Gary R wrote:
>>
>>> Toke me a minute or so to find the same thing he did. Type cnc
>> router into the search field at Instructables.
>
> Dick Morris
> Anchorage, Alaska
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
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>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
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>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

--

yvt

Rupert Wenig
Camrose, Alberta, Canada.

email: rwenig2@...

http://users.xplornet.com/~rwenig/Home/

I would love to itch some spots that I can't reach.

A pet peeve of mine are the fold out camping chairs with the plastic fittings. I
would love to make up one with aluminum fittings. On the far end of the scale
would be to make my own folding chair.

I love to make things out of wood but decent hand driven wood tools can be
expensive to buy if one can find them.  I would love to make some pieces out of
bronze. For example a smoothing plane or a low angle chamfer plane.  There are
so many toys to make!!!

any suggestions on how to go to these places in a sorta step by step way?

Cee

Rupert - Nothing for that model but I did find another site that said
a driver was available. While checking I found that it's 25 years
old. Pre-windows? I have an old computer that I could dedicate, but
it's not nearly that old. I'm hoping for something really cheap and
really easy.

Jeshua - I can't find a photo on the web. I'll have to drag it down
from the shelf. It's an A-2 size pen plotter.

At 07:30 PM 3/1/2010, you wrote:
>Hello Dick,
>         Have you tried this site
><http://www.helpdrivers.com/ingles/listado/dow.asp?codigo=128406>? They
>appear to have a driver for your model.
>         On the other hand there are plans available for home built router
>tables that don't cost an arm and a leg to build. The JGRO model I built
>last winter cost me around $1000. The electronics and software was the
>major part of the cost. I had a suitable computer on hand.

Dick Morris
Anchorage, Alaska

On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:14 PM, C. wrote:

> any suggestions on how to go to these places in a sorta step by step way?

Hi Cee,

Welcome!

1. Buy at least a book or two on the subject and read them (try searching for
'metal casting' on Amazon).

2. Look on the web - there are tons of great sites if you look.

3. If you have questions, search the archive or post them here.


Best,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

For a fresh start and step by step info, it's hard to beat Gingery
books. He has a series on making a metal shop from scrap where you begin
with a foundry (charcoal) and proceed to make a lathe, milling machine,
and more. Even if you don't follow his path, they are a good place to
start. I would suggest you skip charcoal and go straight to a propane
fired foundry, though.
The books (and many others) can be found here:
http://www.lindsaybks.com/
or directly here:
http://www.gingerybooks.com/

There is also a yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/





On 3/1/2010 11:14 PM, C. wrote:
>
>
> I would love to itch some spots that I can't reach.
>
> A pet peeve of mine are the fold out camping chairs with the plastic
> fittings. I would love to make up one with aluminum fittings. On the far
> end of the scale would be to make my own folding chair.
>
> I love to make things out of wood but decent hand driven wood tools can
> be expensive to buy if one can find them. I would love to make some
> pieces out of bronze. For example a smoothing plane or a low angle
> chamfer plane. There are so many toys to make!!!
>
> any suggestions on how to go to these places in a sorta step by step way?
>
> Cee
>
>


--


Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/

Add yourself to the member map here:
http://www.frappr.com/castinghobby

Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson

C, before you spend any $$ on Amazon, try www.google.com/books for blacksmith,
patternmaking, and foundry. The stuff you find will suggest other search terms.
Then the library, and THEN go to Amazon, etc. There is a bunch of old material
on Google books, and the Internet Archive, from the late 19th & early 20th
century on metalworking to give you an idea of how to get where you want to go.
Also, look at knife-making. It includes casting, forging, sharpening, using
small tools, and a bunch of stuff like that.

Gingery, Chastain, and Porter are folks you'll want to own recent books from,
and you'll find them at Lindsay's Technical Books, http://www.lindsaybks.com/
and Amazon, etc. Also check out the Workshop Practice series. These are British
books for hobbyists in model engineering, but VERY useful.

I have been looking at books at the library for, literally, decades. I've been
buying them as I can afford them, especially recently, and hope to get quite a
few more. Those three are the folks at the top of my personal list, right now.

Bill in OKC


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "C." <ceeann1@...> wrote:
>
> I would love to itch some spots that I can't reach.
>
> A pet peeve of mine are the fold out camping chairs with the plastic fittings.
I would love to make up one with aluminum fittings. On the far end of the scale
would be to make my own folding chair.
>
> I love to make things out of wood but decent hand driven wood tools can be
expensive to buy if one can find them.  I would love to make some pieces out of
bronze. For example a smoothing plane or a low angle chamfer plane.  There are
so many toys to make!!!
>
> any suggestions on how to go to these places in a sorta step by step way?
>
> Cee
>

Hello Group,
   I would like to draw your attention to the group discription in view of a
recent post.

Description
Hobbicast is a metal casting discussion list sponsored by the Home Foundrymen's
Association with the purpose of sharing information and knowledge between group
members and helping to solve casting problems, etc.
Due to high list traffic it is requested that you join Sandcrabs and carry all
off topic discussion on in that forum. sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

   I as a moderator will not stand for posts that do not fit the above
description. I don't want to see a repeat of what happened to this group a few
years ago.
   I sender I am aiming this post at has his options set for no mail so he/her
can take this missage as a warning and has been put on moderation. Any more
posts like this will be cause for banning from the group.

Rupert (one of the moderators)

I was reading Hasluck's metalworking from 1904, and he mentions a practice
from that time, which was pouring into a flask stood up vertical on its end.

See page 24 in Google Books at
♫
http://books.google.com/books?id=UUdVAAAAMAAJ&dq=hasluck%20metalworking&pg=PA24

I've read a fair number of web pages on home casting talking about the need
for adequate head pressure, but nobody seems to talk about this method these
days.  It sure makes me curious, because it seems like it would really keep
the head pressure in the mold.

Anyone know more about it and its tradeoffs, and/or if it would be worth
considering for something long like the Gingery lathe bed?

- Alan


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Alan,
     I haven't built the Gingery lathe but I did pour the base for his mill.
Others in our local metal working group have built his lathe. We all used the
horizontal position as Gingery suggests in his books with good results. The
flask I used for the mill bed has a 6" cope so that would be the sprue and riser
height I used as the bed pattern was imbeded in the drag.
     Standing a long flask on end and spruing to the high end has it's advantages
for long items such as a cannon barrel. I haven't had the need to try it so far
myself. As far as I understand the sprue in this case needs to run parallel to
the casting cavity to what is the bottom end of the flask so the molten metal
enters the cavity from the bottom. Good venting is also required at the top end
too. You might try contacting someone who has cast cannon barrels or similar
objects if you need further info. I know there is a fellow on Lopez Island that
uses flask stood on end to cast bronze cannon barrels.
     I clicked on the link you gave but can't find the page you mention. Is there
something I need to do special to see it?

Rupert


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Alan Millar <amillar503@...> wrote:
>
> I was reading Hasluck's metalworking from 1904, and he mentions a practice
> from that time, which was pouring into a flask stood up vertical on its end.
>
> See page 24 in Google Books at
> ♫
>
http://books.google.com/books?id=UUdVAAAAMAAJ&dq=hasluck%20metalworking&pg=PA24
>
> I've read a fair number of web pages on home casting talking about the need
> for adequate head pressure, but nobody seems to talk about this method these
> days.  It sure makes me curious, because it seems like it would really keep
> the head pressure in the mold.
>
> Anyone know more about it and its tradeoffs, and/or if it would be worth
> considering for something long like the Gingery lathe bed?
>
> - Alan
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I've been thinking about this and I may have a solution for you. I was able to
find a candy mold of the alphabet that makes 5/8 inch high letters. It says you
can cast concrete or plaster using the mold so I think it must be pretty sturdy.
Make up a whole mess of letters and then glue them on to a backer board. Use
that as your pattern.

http://www.candy.com/58lettersnumbers-Chocolate-Mold-1-Count_p_8361.html

Or since some letters are used more than others make up boards that match the
size of your flask with multiples of all the same letter. One board all "A"'s
one all "B"'s etc, then cast that in aluminum or pot metal or whatever you've
got. Then use the metal letters in making up the plaques. Remember, cast one
letter now you have two, cast two now you have 4, cast 4 letters now you have 8.
Shouldn't take long to cast all you need to fill a board and then cast that
board multiple times.

Finally when the projects are done all the letters can be tossed in the scrap
barrel to be cast again as something else.

Hope this helps.

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "ronstrand66" <ronstrand66@...> wrote:
>
> I appreciate all the replys I have gotten about how to make plaques, but one
thing I forgot to mention.  Many of the plaques we need have over 4 to 5
THOUSAND letters on them.  Doing them by hand with a knife etc is out of the
question.  That is the main reason I need to find an effective means of doing
them.  By example, one plaque is 2 feet by 3 feet and will be completely covered
in letters a half inch high.  I am going to be able to use some of the
suggestions for smaller plaques though.
> Thanks again
> Ron
>

I think the only practical option is to cnc route the pattern. Find a
sign shop to do it for you and get a quote. Ask for the cheapest
material that will make a good sand pattern, such as MDF.
Please let us know your final outcome.

On 4/10/2010 12:15 AM, Yvael wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I've been thinking about this and I may have a solution for you. I was
> able to find a candy mold of the alphabet that makes 5/8 inch high
> letters. It says you can cast concrete or plaster using the mold so I...

> "ronstrand66" <ronstrand66@...> wrote:
>  >
>  > I appreciate all the replys I have gotten about how to make plaques,
> but one thing I forgot to mention. Many of the plaques we need have over
> 4 to 5 THOUSAND letters on them. Doing them by hand with a knife etc is
> out of the question. That is the main reason I need to find an effective
> means of doing them. By example, one plaque is 2 feet by 3 feet and will
> be completely covered in letters a half inch high. I am going to be able
> to use some of the suggestions for smaller plaques though.
>  > Thanks again
>  > Ron
>  >
--


Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/


Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson

Hello Group!
    I have a hobby of making leather goods (mostly armour and the like for
faires), and it is something that I am thinking about selling.  I need to
fabricate a trademark stamp to help identify my goods, and build a reputation
among the folks.  I do not have the ability to work in metals that are hard
enough to use for stamping leather- and I hope perhaps someone among you do.
    I am guessing that this is something that can be milled out with the CNC
machines that some of you have, or perhaps casted out of a metal harder than the
aluminum that I can work with.  Does this sound feasible to any of you?
    Ideally, I would like to commission one of you to do the stamp- send you the
family crest that I want to use- and let you work your magic.  I have no clue
how small this can be done, but the smaller the better as I do not want the
stamp to be a dominant piece on the leather goods.
 
Any ideas gentlemen?
 
Many thanks
Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You might want to consider the techniques used to chemically etch
circuit boards... I used to do a fair amount of that back in high
school.

Basically you can use a resist material (sharpie marker works for
ferric chloride etching of copper) to paint the areas that you want to
be raised on the finished part.  Then you immerse in a bath of acid
and the acid eats away metal from the exposed areas.  Depth of etch is
based on time in the bath, though there is an issue with undercutting
the surfaces if you try to go really deep.  You can do very fine
detail this way.  I've heard that Ferric Chloride (available from
electronic places) will etch some types of stainless steel, and it
will certainly work on brass or bronze.

If you use heat transfer to do the resist layer, you can actually
print your drawing on a lase printer, and iron it onto the metal, then
hit it with the acid bath to cut away the unwanted parts.  I suspect
that laser toner would stand up to battery acid for several tens of
seconds.  Might be enough to make a mild steel stamp.

There's lots of information about this sort of thing on the 'net.  And
it is relatively cheap to set up.  The steam punk folks sometimes make
jewelery and crude brass parts this way, I've seen instructions on
instructables, I think.

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 7:03 PM, STEVEN SQUIER
<steven.squier@...> wrote:

> Any ideas gentlemen?

i could try if it was a fairly simple mark
have made leather tools and silversmith tools for years
my hands are not as steady is the only reason i said simple   lol
send to
grumpygrady@...

 


<style type="text/css"></style>




________________________________
From: STEVEN SQUIER <steven.squier@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 3:03:32 PM
Subject: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp

 
Hello Group!
    I have a hobby of making leather goods (mostly armour and the like for
faires), and it is something that I am thinking about selling.  I need to
fabricate a trademark stamp to help identify my goods, and build a reputation
among the folks.  I do not have the ability to work in metals that are hard
enough to use for stamping leather- and I hope perhaps someone among you do.
    I am guessing that this is something that can be milled out with the CNC
machines that some of you have, or perhaps casted out of a metal harder than the
aluminum that I can work with.  Does this sound feasible to any of you?
    Ideally, I would like to commission one of you to do the stamp- send you
the family crest that I want to use- and let you work your magic.  I have no
clue how small this can be done, but the smaller the better as I do not want the
stamp to be a dominant piece on the leather goods.
 
Any ideas gentlemen?
 
Many thanks
Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Have you tried making one in aluminum?

On 4/12/2010 3:03 PM, STEVEN SQUIER wrote:
>
>
> Hello Group!
>      I have a hobby of making leather goods (mostly armour and the like
> for faires), and it is something that I am thinking about selling.  I
> need to fabricate a trademark stamp to help identify my goods, and build
> a reputation among the folks.  I do not have the ability to work in
> metals that are hard enough to use for stamping leather- and I hope
> perhaps someone among you do.
>      I am guessing that this is something that can be milled out with
> the CNC machines that some of you have, or perhaps casted out of a metal
> harder than the aluminum that I can work with.  Does this sound feasible
> to any of you?
>      Ideally, I would like to commission one of you to do the stamp-
> send you the family crest that I want to use- and let you work your
> magic.  I have no clue how small this can be done, but the smaller the
> better as I do not want the stamp to be a dominant piece on the leather
> goods.
>
> Any ideas gentlemen?
>
> Many thanks
> Steve
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


--


Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/


Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson

No I have not.  I assumed that the soft metal would not yield a product that
would be worth the time investment to try to do so.
 
Steve

--- On Tue, 4/13/10, Ron Thompson <barebooger@...> wrote:


From: Ron Thompson <barebooger@...>
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 9:49 AM


Have you tried making one in aluminum?

On 4/12/2010 3:03 PM, STEVEN SQUIER wrote:
>
>
> Hello Group!
>      I have a hobby of making leather goods (mostly armour and the like
> for faires), and it is something that I am thinking about selling.  I
> need to fabricate a trademark stamp to help identify my goods, and build
> a reputation among the folks.  I do not have the ability to work in
> metals that are hard enough to use for stamping leather- and I hope
> perhaps someone among you do.
>      I am guessing that this is something that can be milled out with
> the CNC machines that some of you have, or perhaps casted out of a metal
> harder than the aluminum that I can work with.  Does this sound feasible
> to any of you?
>      Ideally, I would like to commission one of you to do the stamp-
> send you the family crest that I want to use- and let you work your
> magic.  I have no clue how small this can be done, but the smaller the
> better as I do not want the stamp to be a dominant piece on the leather
> goods.
>
> Any ideas gentlemen?
>
> Many thanks
> Steve
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


--


Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/


Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson



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owly@...

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thank you.  I will look more into your suggestion.
 
Steve

--- On Tue, 4/13/10, Pierre Coueffin <pcoueffin@...> wrote:


From: Pierre Coueffin <pcoueffin@...>
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 6:18 AM


 



You might want to consider the techniques used to chemically etch
circuit boards... I used to do a fair amount of that back in high
school.

Basically you can use a resist material (sharpie marker works for
ferric chloride etching of copper) to paint the areas that you want to
be raised on the finished part. Then you immerse in a bath of acid
and the acid eats away metal from the exposed areas. Depth of etch is
based on time in the bath, though there is an issue with undercutting
the surfaces if you try to go really deep. You can do very fine
detail this way. I've heard that Ferric Chloride (available from
electronic places) will etch some types of stainless steel, and it
will certainly work on brass or bronze.

If you use heat transfer to do the resist layer, you can actually
print your drawing on a lase printer, and iron it onto the metal, then
hit it with the acid bath to cut away the unwanted parts. I suspect
that laser toner would stand up to battery acid for several tens of
seconds. Might be enough to make a mild steel stamp.

There's lots of information about this sort of thing on the 'net. And
it is relatively cheap to set up. The steam punk folks sometimes make
jewelery and crude brass parts this way, I've seen instructions on
instructables, I think.

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 7:03 PM, STEVEN SQUIER
<steven.squier@ sbcglobal. net> wrote:

> Any ideas gentlemen?







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I think I would try cutting a piece of foam about 1" square and as long
as you like and carving a test design into the end. Poured in lost foam
and sanded across the end if needed for cleanup. Wouldn't take much
time. Hit it with a soft hammer, like rawhide or a wood mallet. Or
fasten a piece of scrap leather over the end.
Let us know if you try it.

On 4/13/2010 11:04 AM, STEVEN SQUIER wrote:
>
>
> No I have not.  I assumed that the soft metal would not yield a product
> that would be worth the time investment to try to do so.
>
> Steve
>
> --- On Tue, 4/13/10, Ron Thompson <barebooger@...
> <mailto:barebooger%40cfl.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> From: Ron Thompson <barebooger@... <mailto:barebooger%40cfl.rr.com>>
> Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com <mailto:hobbicast%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 9:49 AM
>
> Have you tried making one in aluminum?
>
> On 4/12/2010 3:03 PM, STEVEN SQUIER wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  > Hello Group!
>  >      I have a hobby of making leather goods (mostly armour and the like
>  > for faires), and it is something that I am thinking about selling.  I
>  > need to fabricate a trademark stamp to help identify my goods, and build
>  > a reputation among the folks.  I do not have the ability to work in
>  > metals that are hard enough to use for stamping leather- and I hope
>  > perhaps someone among you do.
>  >      I am guessing that this is something that can be milled out with
>  > the CNC machines that some of you have, or perhaps casted out of a metal
>  > harder than the aluminum that I can work with.  Does this sound feasible
>  > to any of you?
>  >      Ideally, I would like to commission one of you to do the stamp-
>  > send you the family crest that I want to use- and let you work your
>  > magic.  I have no clue how small this can be done, but the smaller the
>  > better as I do not want the stamp to be a dominant piece on the leather
>  > goods.
>  >
>  > Any ideas gentlemen?
>  >
>  > Many thanks
>  > Steve
>  >
>  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>
> --
>
> Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
> On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
> Center, USA
>
> http://www.plansandprojects.com <http://www.plansandprojects.com> My
> hobby pages are here:
> http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/
> <http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/>
>
> Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
> http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/
> <http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/>
>
> Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
> the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
> -Ron Thompson
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast>
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1>
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/ <http://budgetcastingsupply.com/>
>
> List Owner:
> owly@... <mailto:owly%40ttc-cmc.net>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


--


Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/


Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson

If you can get a reversed copy made out of graphite, you can then make a
permanent copy of your stamp in hardened steel.  It would be a simple sinker job
for an EDM.  (electric discharge machine)  I know there are CNC and EDM groups
out there.
Jim
PS graphite is soft enough you might even be able to carve it into the shape you
need (reversed so the EDM will produce a right way any hardness steel or even
carbide stamp)

--- On Tue, 4/13/10, Ron Thompson <barebooger@...> wrote:


From: Ron Thompson <barebooger@...>
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 10:49 AM


Have you tried making one in aluminum?

On 4/12/2010 3:03 PM, STEVEN SQUIER wrote:
>
>
> Hello Group!
>      I have a hobby of making leather goods (mostly armour and the like
> for faires), and it is something that I am thinking about selling.  I
> need to fabricate a trademark stamp to help identify my goods, and build
> a reputation among the folks.  I do not have the ability to work in
> metals that are hard enough to use for stamping leather- and I hope
> perhaps someone among you do.
>      I am guessing that this is something that can be milled out with
> the CNC machines that some of you have, or perhaps casted out of a metal
> harder than the aluminum that I can work with.  Does this sound feasible
> to any of you?
>      Ideally, I would like to commission one of you to do the stamp-
> send you the family crest that I want to use- and let you work your
> magic.  I have no clue how small this can be done, but the smaller the
> better as I do not want the stamp to be a dominant piece on the leather
> goods.
>
> Any ideas gentlemen?
>
> Many thanks
> Steve
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


--


Ron Thompson Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space
Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/


Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson



------------------------------------

For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
this list does not accept attachments. 

Files area and list services are at:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast

For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
check out these two affiliated sites:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1

Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
http://budgetcastingsupply.com/

List Owner:
owly@...

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Apr 13, 2010, at 4:03 PM, James Sterner wrote:

> If you can get a reversed copy made out of graphite, you can then make a
permanent copy of your stamp in hardened steel.  It would be a simple sinker job
for an EDM.  (electric discharge machine)  I know there are CNC and EDM groups
out there.
> Jim
> PS graphite is soft enough you might even be able to carve it into the shape
you need (reversed so the EDM will produce a right way any hardness steel or
even carbide stamp)

I would also recommend a graphite mold.

If you have a graphite mold you could even cast it yourself using an
aluminothermic reaction. You could cast it out of stainless steel or
ferotitanium (which is also stainless).

If you need the graphite machined by CNC, and/or you would like me to cast it,
let me know off list, and we can try to work something out.


Best,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

Annother possibility is look around your area and see if anyone does laser
engraving.  They can make it deep enough by going over the pattern a few times. 
I had a couple things done like that when I still gunsmithing.  All I had to
supply was the piece of steel and a picture or pattern of what I wanted and they
took it from there.
Lee
http://www.packratworkshop.com


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Jeshua Lacock
   To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 6:16 PM
   Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp




   On Apr 13, 2010, at 4:03 PM, James Sterner wrote:

   > If you can get a reversed copy made out of graphite, you can then make a
permanent copy of your stamp in hardened steel. It would be a simple sinker job
for an EDM. (electric discharge machine) I know there are CNC and EDM groups out
there.
   > Jim
   > PS graphite is soft enough you might even be able to carve it into the shape
you need (reversed so the EDM will produce a right way any hardness steel or
even carbide stamp)

   I would also recommend a graphite mold.

   If you have a graphite mold you could even cast it yourself using an
aluminothermic reaction. You could cast it out of stainless steel or
ferotitanium (which is also stainless).

   If you need the graphite machined by CNC, and/or you would like me to cast it,
let me know off list, and we can try to work something out.

   Best,

   Jeshua Lacock, Owner
   <http://OpenOSX.com>
   phone: 208.462.4171






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jeshua, if I understand you correctly, you are suggesting taking a
hand (or dremel...) carved chunk of graphite, pouring something that
resembles a thermite compound over it and lighting it up?  Should cast
an iron block that is a negative of the mold, then I suppose you'd
just break off the mold with a hammer.

I'm very interested in this process.  I've been playing with a few
commercial cadweld units that were given to me by a guy who thought
I'd find them interesting...  They cast a copper alloy (probably a
brass or bronze, but I'm not exactly sure of the composition) using a
thin porcelain mold.  The ceramic is less than 1/8" thick and seems to
hold several ounces of hellfire long enough to bond everything
solidly.

Have you tried iron using similar techniques already?  I keep looking
at it as an option, but I have no idea how thick of a block of
graphite I'd want to contain the thermal shock involved.   Going from
room temperature to molten iron in 5 seconds or so makes me worry
about shattering the mold, and letting the hot stuff out prematurely.

On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:16 PM, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
> If you have a graphite mold you could even cast it yourself using an
aluminothermic reaction. You could cast it out of stainless steel or
ferotitanium (which is also stainless).

What if you pre-heated the graphite mold
in a forge / furnace to ~2000F, then did the
iron pour / thermite.

lance
++++
On Apr 13, 2010, at 7:33 PM, Pierre Coueffin wrote:
> <snip>
>
> Have you tried iron using similar techniques already? I keep looking
> at it as an option, but I have no idea how thick of a block of
> graphite I'd want to contain the thermal shock involved. Going from
> room temperature to molten iron in 5 seconds or so makes me worry
> about shattering the mold, and letting the hot stuff out prematurely..


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Pierre Coueffin <pcoueffin@...> wrote:
> Have you tried iron using similar techniques already?  I keep looking
> at it as an option, but I have no idea how thick of a block of
> graphite I'd want to contain the thermal shock involved.   Going from
> room temperature to molten iron in 5 seconds or so makes me worry
> about shattering the mold, and letting the hot stuff out prematurely.

Graphite's tough stuff.  I've quenched it from at least yellow hot in water and
it remains solid (maybe weakened, I don't know).  Others have more direct
experience:
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/026/index.s7.html#sample17

Tim

On Apr 13, 2010, at 6:23 PM, wheezer wrote:

> What if you pre-heated the graphite mold
> in a forge / furnace to ~2000F, then did the
> iron pour / thermite.

There is absolutely no need to preheat the graphite.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171