If anyone is interested, I have written an  article on casting, amount other
things, a  pulley:

http://rick.sparber.org/Articles/CD/CDM/prh.pdf

plus an  article on machining the pulley casting into a 4 step  pulley

http://rick.sparber.org/Articles/CD/CDM/pma.pdf

Questions  and comments are always welcome. All of us are smarter than any
one of  us.

Rick Sparber
rgsparber@...
web site:  http://rick.sparber.org




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
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Nicely done, sir, nicely done indeed!

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham (Uncle Rabid)
Uncle Rabid (http://www.unclerabid.com)
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
                  NOW FULL TIME
----- Original Message -----
From: <rgsparber@...>
To: <castinghobby@yahoogroups.com>; <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 7:01 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] casting and machining a pulley


> If anyone is interested, I have written an  article on casting, amount
> other
> things, a  pulley:
>
> http://rick.sparber.org/Articles/CD/CDM/prh.pdf
>
> plus an  article on machining the pulley casting into a 4 step  pulley
>
> http://rick.sparber.org/Articles/CD/CDM/pma.pdf
>
> Questions  and comments are always welcome. All of us are smarter than any
> one of  us.
>
> Rick Sparber
> rgsparber@...
> web site:  http://rick.sparber.org
>
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
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>
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> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
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>
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>
>
>

Sorry Guy's ,

I forgot to add this link to my previous email, it has some reference to really
hot fires and why not to add water to them.


http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen06/gen06107.htm

Patrick.



      
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct a foundry for
melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I have access to all the used
motor i could ever need and I am sure I can get some waist vegetable oil also.
It will have a propane system for preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.

Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.

Once the furnace is up and running  and really HOT, can a water injection
system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods, be used and would the
water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There buy using less oil or no oil at all.
I think the process of breaking up the water like this is called "catalytic
cracking"  . Kinda like a fuel cell  but using heat instead of electricity .

So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and  shoot a few  pumps of water into
the air intake stream of their foundry to test this theory?

Patrick.


      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Patrick
At best it will be a zero sum game, splitting the water into H and O
will take away energy from the fire, if there is sufficient O the
the hydrogen will reburn and ideally you will regain the same amount
of energy..  In reality there will be losses in the process, ie
energy lost as UV or IR light escaping, fuel burning outside the
furnace etc.

The link you gave in another post has more to do with trying to put
out a fire with water.  Water will smother a "normal" fire but many
metals are more reactive than hydrogen so the water acts as an
oxygen source for the burning metal.  If it is in a confined space
the generated hydrogen may become a problem but in the open it would
just reburn.

JohnW

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, patrick parsons <pparsons3000@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct a
foundry for melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I
have access to all the used motor i could ever need and I am sure I
can get some waist vegetable oil also. It will have a propane system
for preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.
>
> Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.
>
> Once the furnace is up and running  and really HOT, can a water
injection system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods, be
used and would the water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There buy
using less oil or no oil at all. I think the process of breaking up
the water like this is called "catalytic cracking"  . Kinda like a
fuel cell  but using heat instead of electricity .
>
> So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and  shoot a few  pumps
of water into the air intake stream of their foundry to test this
theory?
>
> Patrick.
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On May 5, 2008, at 1:04 PM, patrick parsons wrote:
> I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct a
> foundry for melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I
> have access to all the used motor i could ever need and I am sure I
> can get some waist vegetable oil also. It will have a propane system
> for preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.
>
> Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.
>
> Once the furnace is up and running and really HOT, can a water
> injection system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods, be
> used and would the water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There buy
> using less oil or no oil at all. I think the process of breaking up
> the water like this is called "catalytic cracking" . Kinda like a
> fuel cell but using heat instead of electricity .
>
> So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and shoot a few pumps of
> water into the air intake stream of their foundry to test this theory?



Greetings,

You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To decompose
water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).

The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures.

Large kilns add water to their oil burners to agitate the fire and
aids in atomizing the oil and generally creates a more violent flame.
Using this method, they start out with 0% water and once the fire is
established they add up to 50% water.

Most metal will not benefit from the steam and is likely to cause
major amounts of impurities.

I have posted instructions on how to build a very simple oil burner
from a discarded propane tank; search the archives - if you have any
questions I will do by best.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
>
>
> On May 5, 2008, at 1:04 PM, patrick parsons wrote:
> > I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct
a
> > foundry for melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I
> > have access to all the used motor i could ever need and I am sure
I
> > can get some waist vegetable oil also. It will have a propane
system
> > for preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.
> >
> > Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.
> >
> > Once the furnace is up and running and really HOT, can a water
> > injection system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods,
be
> > used and would the water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There
buy
> > using less oil or no oil at all. I think the process of breaking
up
> > the water like this is called "catalytic cracking" . Kinda like
a
> > fuel cell but using heat instead of electricity .
> >
> > So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and shoot a few pumps
of
> > water into the air intake stream of their foundry to test this
theory?
>
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
> with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To
decompose
> water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).
>
> The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures.
>
> Large kilns add water to their oil burners to agitate the fire and
> aids in atomizing the oil and generally creates a more violent
flame.
> Using this method, they start out with 0% water and once the fire
is
> established they add up to 50% water.
>
> Most metal will not benefit from the steam and is likely to cause
> major amounts of impurities.
>
> I have posted instructions on how to build a very simple oil
burner
> from a discarded propane tank; search the archives - if you have
any
> questions will do my best.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
  Yes Jeshua  it's to bad more people have not picked up
on your design.
I soon will be making a copy to use on a cokeless cupola.
Have you ben able to test yours any more?
I was thinking of something smaller than a propane tank like
a 6" steel pipe weilded up when time permits.
Maybe it's to simple for others to get it, but I DO.
Thanks Vernon
VA_Brassworks
Winchester, Va.


Lacock, Owner
> <http://OpenOSX.com>
> phone: 877.240.1364
>

On May 5, 2008, at 10:51 PM, va_brassworks wrote:
> Yes Jeshua it's to bad more people have not picked up
> on your design.

Thanks Vernon!

> I soon will be making a copy to use on a cokeless cupola.
> Have you ben able to test yours any more?

Still works like a champ for me, but it has not been getting as much
use as I would like. I plan to cast window frames for my homestead
soon, which I am very much looking forward to. And I am "dying" to
finish my 4'x4'x2' CNC machine!

> I was thinking of something smaller than a propane tank like
> a 6" steel pipe weilded up when time permits.
> Maybe it's to simple for others to get it, but I DO.


Yes, I admit, a 12 or 15 pound tank is a overkill for most work
especially for melting aluminum (and my furnace holds a 100#
crucible). But seems to be a good size for melting many pounds of
iron. I plan to build a small one from a 5 pound tank that I picked up
from the dump soon. And I want to build one even smaller for
converting my 155F hot spring into steam (maybe even from a hand held
propane cylinder)...


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

Take a look at
<http://www.fastonline.org/CD3WD_40/VITA/OILKILN2/EN/OILKILN2.HTM>

Waste oil and water furnace


patrick parsons <pparsons3000@...> wrote:                             Hi
Guys,

  I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct a foundry for
melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I have access to all the used
motor i could ever need and I am sure I can get some waist vegetable oil also.
It will have a propane system for preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.

  Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.

  Once the furnace is up and running  and really HOT, can a water injection
system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods, be used and would the
water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There buy using less oil or no oil at all.
I think the process of breaking up the water like this is called "catalytic
cracking"  . Kinda like a fuel cell  but using heat instead of electricity .

  So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and  shoot a few  pumps of water into
the air intake stream of their foundry to test this theory?

  Patrick.

  __________________________________________________________
  Be a better friend, newshound, and
  know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To quote from below
"You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
  with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To decompose
  water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).

  The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures."

No longer true, It has been done at a much lower temperature by catalytic
reaction.
see:
<http://www.jaea.go.jp/jaeri/english/press/2003/030821/>

Or search for
"Successful Demonstration of Hydrogen Production by Thermal Cracking of Water"



Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
  On May 5, 2008, at 1:04 PM, patrick parsons wrote:
  > I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct a
  > foundry for melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I
  > have access to all the used motor i could ever need and I am sure I
  > can get some waist vegetable oil also. It will have a propane system
  > for preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.
  >
  > Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.
  >
  > Once the furnace is up and running and really HOT, can a water
  > injection system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods, be
  > used and would the water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There buy
  > using less oil or no oil at all. I think the process of breaking up
  > the water like this is called "catalytic cracking" . Kinda like a
  > fuel cell but using heat instead of electricity .
  >
  > So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and shoot a few pumps of
  > water into the air intake stream of their foundry to test this theory?

  Greetings,

  You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
  with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To decompose
  water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).

  The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures.

  Large kilns add water to their oil burners to agitate the fire and
  aids in atomizing the oil and generally creates a more violent flame.
  Using this method, they start out with 0% water and once the fire is
  established they add up to 50% water.

  Most metal will not benefit from the steam and is likely to cause
  major amounts of impurities.

  I have posted instructions on how to build a very simple oil burner
  from a discarded propane tank; search the archives - if you have any
  questions I will do by best.

  Cheers,

  Jeshua Lacock, Owner
  <http://OpenOSX.com>
  phone: 877.240.1364






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On May 6, 2008, at 2:27 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
> "You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
> with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To decompose
> water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).
>
> The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures."
>
> No longer true, It has been done at a much lower temperature by
> catalytic reaction.
> see:
> <http://www.jaea.go.jp/jaeri/english/press/2003/030821/>

What I posted is the disassociation temperature without the use of
catalysts - which remains the same much, much hotter than a oil flame.
Yes, it is true, most chemical reaction critical temperatures may be
reduced using catalysts - after all that is what a catalyst does.

The post did ask about burning water with added catalysts - and this
would not practical for a home foundry. The post inquired if it was
possible to spray water into a oil furnace and have it produce
hydrogen and oxygen (and ultimately just run off of water). It simply
is not possible.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

On May 6, 2008, at 2:21 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
> <http://www.fastonline.org/CD3WD_40/VITA/OILKILN2/EN/OILKILN2.HTM>
>
> Waste oil and water furnace

It is much more complicated than it needs to be. Basically, all you
need is a steel tank that can be salvaged....


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

The original post by Patric only commented:
"I think the process of breaking up the water like this is called catalytic
  cracking"

If you do the search you will find references that do indicate that catalytic
cracking is feasible for a home made burner and foundry, not as you stated
and there are academic papers that indicate the possibilities of burning 100%
water (with catalyst.) I am not saying that is possible in the home foundry, but
may be.

As to you comment
" Most metal will not benefit from the steam and is likely to cause
  major amounts of impurities."

Is not the major product of combustion --- Water



Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
  On May 6, 2008, at 2:27 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
  > "You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
  > with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To decompose
  > water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).
  >
  > The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures."
  >
  > No longer true, It has been done at a much lower temperature by
  > catalytic reaction.
  > see:
  > <http://www.jaea.go.jp/jaeri/english/press/2003/030821/>

  What I posted is the disassociation temperature without the use of
  catalysts - which remains the same much, much hotter than a oil flame.
  Yes, it is true, most chemical reaction critical temperatures may be
  reduced using catalysts - after all that is what a catalyst does.

  The post did ask about burning water with added catalysts - and this
  would not practical for a home foundry. The post inquired if it was
  possible to spray water into a oil furnace and have it produce
  hydrogen and oxygen (and ultimately just run off of water). It simply
  is not possible.

  Cheers,

  Jeshua Lacock, Owner
  <http://OpenOSX.com>
  phone: 877.240.1364






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ok. Here is my 50 cent opinion of what is happening.

   The furnace calls for one drop of water for each 4 drops of oil.

   Since we agree that the foundry furnace isn't "burning" water,  then purhaps
the purpose of the 20% water drip must be there to regulate:  to control the oil
fire.  The oil- water mixture makes the  drip input to the furnace "safer".  But
looking at the pathway down to the burning chamber, it drips down 3 little
"waterfall" kind of steel baffle / flaps.  So, by the time that the oil / water
mixture gets down to the burning  chamber, the water has evaporated, and the oil
is at flash point.

   Dann

Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...> wrote:
           The original post by Patric only commented:
"I think the process of breaking up the water like this is called catalytic
cracking"

If you do the search you will find references that do indicate that catalytic
cracking is feasible for a home made burner and foundry, not as you stated
and there are academic papers that indicate the possibilities of burning 100%
water (with catalyst.) I am not saying that is possible in the home foundry, but
may be.

As to you comment
" Most metal will not benefit from the steam and is likely to cause
major amounts of impurities."

Is not the major product of combustion --- Water

Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
On May 6, 2008, at 2:27 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
> "You are not actually disassociating hydrogen and oxygen from water
> with this method (or at least any substantial amounts). To decompose
> water into H and O you need to reach 5458 K (9856.4 F).
>
> The only way to get h20 that hot is under immense pressures."
>
> No longer true, It has been done at a much lower temperature by
> catalytic reaction.
> see:
> <http://www.jaea.go.jp/jaeri/english/press/2003/030821/>

What I posted is the disassociation temperature without the use of
catalysts - which remains the same much, much hotter than a oil flame.
Yes, it is true, most chemical reaction critical temperatures may be
reduced using catalysts - after all that is what a catalyst does.

The post did ask about burning water with added catalysts - and this
would not practical for a home foundry. The post inquired if it was
possible to spray water into a oil furnace and have it produce
hydrogen and oxygen (and ultimately just run off of water). It simply
is not possible.

Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364





---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Not at the temps your melting brass at.
--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, patrick parsons <pparsons3000@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I am in the process of gathering everything i need to construct a
foundry for melting brass. I will be using a waist oil burner. I have
access to all the used motor i could ever need and I am sure I can
get some waist vegetable oil also. It will have a propane system for
preheating prier to turning on the waist oil.
>
> Now here is something I have been wondering the last few days.
>
> Once the furnace is up and running  and really HOT, can a water
injection system, similar to the ones that were put on hot rods, be
used and would the water flash into Hydrogen and Oxygen? There buy
using less oil or no oil at all. I think the process of breaking up
the water like this is called "catalytic cracking"  . Kinda like a
fuel cell  but using heat instead of electricity .
>
> So, anyone willing to take a spraybottle and  shoot a few  pumps of
water into the air intake stream of their foundry to test this theory?
>
> Patrick.
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On May 6, 2008, at 5:52 AM, Dann Johnson wrote:
> The furnace calls for one drop of water for each 4 drops of oil.
>
> Since we agree that the foundry furnace isn't "burning" water, then
> purhaps the purpose of the 20% water drip must be there to regulate:
> to control the oil fire. The oil- water mixture makes the drip input
> to the furnace "safer". But looking at the pathway down to the
> burning chamber, it drips down 3 little "waterfall" kind of steel
> baffle / flaps. So, by the time that the oil / water mixture gets
> down to the burning chamber, the water has evaporated, and the oil
> is at flash point.

The water just atomizes the oil.

When the water hits the HOT burner it explodes into steam, creating a
mist of oil that burns.

But I would advise that steam is highly corrosive (unless it is
distilled), and while that might work good for pottery, I would advise
against it for casting.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

On May 6, 2008, at 4:49 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
> If you do the search you will find references that do indicate that
> catalytic cracking is feasible for a home made burner and foundry,
> not as you stated
> and there are academic papers that indicate the possibilities of
> burning 100% water (with catalyst.) I am not saying that is possible
> in the home foundry, but may be.

And what are they using for the catalyst? How much energy goes into
creating it?

Think about it for a minute, if you could just burn water without
converting it to H and 0, we would not be having a energy crisis. This
rings "free energy", and I am afraid there is no such thing as a free
lunch.

If you could burn water, you could just fill your gas tank up with
water and sprinkle in a little of this magical catalyst.

I am aware of the term "cracking", like burning green wood efficiently
you "Crack" the wood so that it burns cleanly. However, you will get
about 15% less BTUs from green wood opposed to dry wood, so it works
against you, not for you.

> As to you comment
> " Most metal will not benefit from the steam and is likely to cause
> major amounts of impurities."
>
> Is not the major product of combustion --- Water


I am afraid you lost me here.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

Does anyone know where I'd find info on how to heat treat cast 95400
to improve the strength and hardness of the al/bronze so I can use it
for making a gear from.

tks

jb

On May 12, 2008, at 11:13 AM, dinger863700 wrote:
> Does anyone know where I'd find info on how to heat treat cast 95400
> to improve the strength and hardness of the al/bronze so I can use it
> for making a gear from.


I believe that bronze can be heat treated using the quenching method.

Get her cherry red (or hot as possible without deforming it) and douse
it in water. Wikipedia has an article on quenching:

	 <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quench>

I hope this helps.


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 877.240.1364

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "dinger863700" <john.bell@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I'd find info on how to heat treat cast 95400
> to improve the strength and hardness of the al/bronze so I can use it
> for making a gear from.
>
> tks
>
> jb
>
Hi John,
As you are well aware, C95400 is not exactly your run-of-the-mill
"bronze".  It responds well to heat treatment and is an excellent
choice for making gears.  Instead of , "cherry red" and , "dunk" you
might want to consider this instead:

Stress relieving temperature---- 600 deg. F
Time at temperature----1 hr. /in. of thickness
Solution Heat Treating temperature---1600-1675 deg. F
Time at temperature----1 hr./in. of thickness
Quenching medium----water
Annealing temperature-----1150-1225 deg. F
Time at temperature---1 hr./in. of thickness

Hope this is helpful, good luck.

Gary

Tks Gary

One question - Why would the gear blank benefit from a stress relieve
treatment before doing the heat treating and annealing?

tks again

jb


> Hi John,
> As you are well aware, C95400 is not exactly your run-of-the-mill
> "bronze".  It responds well to heat treatment and is an excellent
> choice for making gears.  Instead of , "cherry red" and , "dunk" you
> might want to consider this instead:
>
> Stress relieving temperature---- 600 deg. F
> Time at temperature----1 hr. /in. of thickness
> Solution Heat Treating temperature---1600-1675 deg. F
> Time at temperature----1 hr./in. of thickness
> Quenching medium----water
> Annealing temperature-----1150-1225 deg. F
> Time at temperature---1 hr./in. of thickness
>
> Hope this is helpful, good luck.
>
> Gary
>

For those on the list really into large old steam engines, check out
http://www.kbsm.org for a newly restored steam pump.

I couldn't get the upload to work at yahoo,
so the Vesuvius pics are here:




lance
++++



OK Group,

Just to create some  options here goes:

I have sourced these Coors #60173 crucibles.

Their size is 3.5" OD and 4.5" tall. and can get them at $20 / box of
six IF I buy 5 or more boxes. I can break the boxes down and remail the
crux for $5 plus postage to your address.

They would be a good size for small melts, 2-3 pounds Al.

Also, Vesuvius Refractories is closing its manufacturing plant here
next month and I have been given permission to rummage through their
discard pile. It is NOT new stuff, some dings and such, but never used.

I don't know what or how much will be available,
but I have posted pictures here http://tinyurl.com/5rylvf

to show you what I picked up today.

Larger pieces are $10 each plus shipping to you.

They are heavy refractory material

fired to somewhere between 1500-200F, the fork lift
operator wasn't sure. The smaller pieces are 4/$10 and would
make good kiln table posts or through the wall inserts for a
peep hole or thermocouple. Lengths vary depending on what
I find.

Let me know if you are interested in the Coors or the Vesuvius
stuff, and how many of each.

lance
++++

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Try these URL for Vesuvius pics:

http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/rocketboy_photo/

http://tinyurl.com/2c9v2v


lance
++++

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I will be moving my shop, and have posted some used equipment I have
for sale.

Please view at this URL:
http://www.stewardeng.com/used_equipment_for_sale.htm

I will be adding as I find more

Thanks,

Steve L.

It would be nice if you would post some prices
Clint

Steve Latuszek wrote:
> I will be moving my shop, and have posted some used equipment I have
> for sale.
>
> Please view at this URL:
> http://www.stewardeng.com/used_equipment_for_sale.htm
>
> I will be adding as I find more
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve L.
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

The 500# crucible is $450
The 300# Crucible is #300

The Burke Horizontal Mill is $300

The Logan Lathe with Turret is $700

Patterns are $300 ea.

All Equipmet is F.O.B. Carpentersvile, IL 60118

Thanks,

Steve L.

Spammers are not tolerated here.........

                      Howard

William McMurry wrote:
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> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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Oops...... got sucked into that one.... this spam would not have made it
to the list at all if I had not repeated it.... spammers are getting
clever these days.

                              Howard

Stone Tool wrote:
> Spammers are not tolerated here.........
>
>                      Howard
>
> William McMurry wrote:

Hello Guys,
	 This link was posted to another group. Maybe you have seen it but if
not here it is-
<http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks_libray/woodworks_library.html>.
	 Some interesting links to pattern making books. I haven't read them yet
so can't make intelligent reviews.

Rupert
--

yvt

Rupert Wenig
Camrose, Alberta, Canada.

email: rwenig2@...

http://users.xplornet.com/~rwenig/Home/