--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "gene98329" <gene98329@c...> wrote:
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, rgsparber@a... wrote:
>   components you could be in for some good quality
> > scrap.  Any commets.
>
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> > If by cuttings you mean swarf, I think you will find that it
> makes  great
> > aluminum oxide but awful ingots. Even when packed into dense
> blocks, the  stuff
> > does more oxidation than melting. Chunks of solid aluminium
works
> great.
> >
> > Rick
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Rick is correct that the swarf doesn't make good ingots on its
own,
> but if added in small quanities to a pot full of molten AL it
works
> OK. I often use my swarf and even an occasional aluminum can to my
> melt just to get rid of that scrap. Yes I do have some dross to
deal
> with but find that I can squeeze most of the good metal out with a
> special set of squeezing tongs I made. Whats left is then put into
> opened cans to be sent to the commerical scrapper in recycle
stuff.
> The commerical guys can melt that stuff in large enough quanities
> that it seems not to make much dross,. Not sure if they add
> something to the melt to prevent it?
> I do like melting pre cast ingots or larger chunks though- now
back
> to thinking on how to melt a car wheel without breaking it up!
>
> cheers Gene

Melting a car wheel hmm..
Thoguht about designing your own "oddshaped cupola"? As cheap as my
charcoal furnace was to make ive been thinking lately its silly not
to make special ones for special uses. Like a very narrow, tall
cupola shaped charcoal  or propane furnace. I think one might be
able to melt small amounts of iron in a reasonable time?

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Greg Jahnke" <gjahnke@b...> wrote:
>
> Unless you have specifically designed your furnace for this, it
is  a bad
> idea.  The thermite will melt through the container it is in, burn
through
> the refractory at the bottom of the furnace, burn through the
bottom of your
> container, and continue in to the dirt underneath.  Thermite burns
in the
> 5-6k degree range, your refractory is almost certainly not rated
for this.
> Thermite will burn through a 2000 degree fire brick like it is
nothing
>
I understand that. I think thermite, like you said, is supposed to
burn around 6500F. From what ive read when its burning it can easily
give you second degree radiation burns. IF i did it I was going to
use an infintesimal amount in a small metal cup over the "emergency"
hole in the bottom of the furnace. Now im thinking if i ever get
around to trying it ill do what someone said and just sprinkle it in
among the charcoal or something in tiny amounts. Sortof a "booster
shot" that activates once the furnace gets hot enough. Probably not
though.

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "gene98329" <gene98329@c...> wrote:
>
> I've used charcoal for years to melt AL and even a few crucibles
of
> brass. If all your trying to do is ignite the charcoal fast why
not
> just use a chimney, which is a coffee can opened on one end as
> normal and church key openings all around the other end along the
> side. (use the key on the side of the can rather than the bottom)
> This will get the charcoal going and then you can add into your
> furnace with tongs around your crucible. instasll your lid and
turn
> on the blower. This should get a melt within 30-40 minutes at most?
> I always use some thin sections of AL in the bottom of the
crucible
> to get the melt started (called a heel) then I add more AL that
has
> been preheating once the initial melt starts.
> I have since converted to using propane as the newer NA burners
> require no blower and do a great job in half the time!
>
> Only My $.02
>
> Gene

Im really trying to change hte process and use charcoal only as a
sortof continual, simple heat source .Im trying to find/design a
kerosene burner atm (another low on the totem poll project) and am
thinking of using charcoal in the furnace as a continual heat source
to light the atomised kerosene. Seems safer too. Thanks for the
advise.

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel C. Postellon"
<postello@m...> wrote:
> This is a possible accident.  The reason that you need a high
temperature to
> start a thermite reaction is related to the oxide coating.
Melting the
> aluminum power releases liquid aluminum, which is very reactive,
even though
> the oxide is not.  I suspect that the accidents are more likely to
occur if
> you machine aluminum with lots of rusty scrap around, the fresh
aluminum
> turnings might have some surfaces with little or no oxide coating,
and
> therefore more reactive.  The thermite reaction basically burns
aluminum,
> using the oxide in iron oxide (rust) as a source of oxygen.  It
generates
> enough heat to melt the iron which is released by the reaction.
There is a
> commercial firm that turns incinerator ash into a relatively inert
glass,
> using iron oxide and old aluminum cans as a heat source.  Cheap
thermite
> should be possible, I just don't know how safe it would be.  Let
me know if
> it works for you.  I wouldn't mind trying it, but I don't want to
be the
> first.
> Dan P.
>

Ive thoguht about it for years actually since i saw a movie where
they used a thermite lance to burn through a bank vault. The idea
that there was something that burned THAT hot set my young (at the
time) mind blazing. Luckily i was wiser when i was younger.
Eventually ill try to make some thermite. Maybe soon. I mostly make
chips though so dont have a lot of fine aluminum or iron about.
Strangely enough i cut a camshaft up to make a lathe spindle on my
cheap pos bandsaww the other day and left LOTS of tiny Fe particle
laying about. I was cutting some 6061 tonight and noticed the steel
had turned to a pile of rust and thought about that safety report. I
wasnt.. really worried.. but it did sit there in the back of my mind
that i could experience a sudden burst of light and heat heh.

BTW others have actually made thermite. Its not common but i found
some web references.

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, rgsparber@a... wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 10/31/2004 5:31:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> gene98329@c... writes:
>
> now back
> to thinking on how to melt a car wheel without breaking it  up!
>
>
> The trick I have heard is to dig a hole, fill it with charcoal
and  get it
> going with a bit of air flow. Then roast the wheel in the fire
until it  gets
> brittle. Then hit it with a sledge. It should not shatter like
glass but  rather
> break like warm plastic. I have used this technique on large hard
drive
> cases but not with something as big as a wheel.
>
> Rick Sparber
>
> rgsparber@A...
> my  website: rgsparber.fifthprime.com

What kind of wheel are you talking about? I assumed you were
attempting to melt a steel wheel for some reason. If its
an "aluminum" wheel... DONT. Most "aluminum" wheels are magnesium
alloys. And magnesium burns HOT. In other words you could end up
with the mother of all unquenchable fires. And hitting it with a
sledgehammer.. flying molten anything is scary scary scary stuff.

Have yo uthoguht of finding a friend with a log splitter? My brother
just bought one (he actively searches for things to waste money on)
and im planning on hauling some transmission casings etc to his
house soon hehe.

Sounds awesome. And easy to do. Well except for the "explosion"
part..

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "John Norman" <arclight@2...>
wrote:
>
> Here is a web page where someone used Thermite (the Iron Oxide was
salvaged by
> running a magnet through sand) to cast an iron chain link.  Check
out:
>
>
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/026/index.s7.html#
sample17
>
> There is also a video of the casting on this site.
>
>
> John N.

I noticed that there is some satin cast on ebay this week for about a dollar a
pound.

Good to know if you are thinking of trying your hand at investment casting.

Jerry

----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Jahnke <gjahnke@...>
Date: Saturday, October 30, 2004 10:20 am
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] plaster of Paris

>
>
> You can use casting plaster (regular plaster) with sand to cast
> iron or even
> steel.  It is called 30-30 mix.  1 part 30 minute casting plaster,
> 2 parts
> 30 grit sand.
>
> When you pburn out your wax, make sure you "cook" your mold long
> enough to
> drive out all the moisture, then, of course, preheat it before you
> cast (you
> will get a much better casting if you preheat your mold).-
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mary Kelly" <makelly@...>
> To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 11:01 AM
> Subject: [hobbicast] plaster of Paris
>
>
> >
> >
> > John, I think they're one and the same---the plaster used on a
> wall and
> plaster of Paris. But maybe the term is used loosely and maybe
> people doing
> home repair use plaster and spackle and putty interchangeably.
> >
> > But plaster of Paris is what we're talking about when  molding
> investmentis the topic. Standard hardware store plaster of Paris.
> It doesn't contain
> any water until you yourself add it. If it did it would be
> unuseable because
> it wouldn't cure, become hard.
> >
> > For low melt metals it's sufficient by itself as investment. For
> brass (I
> have it on good authority though I haven't yet tried it) it's fine
> as long
> as a heat stabilizing ingredient or two is added, primarily sand.
> P of P is
> indistinguishable to the eye from the much pricier special
> investment like
> Satin Cast sold by jewelers' supply houses.   Mary
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > This list is for discussion of metal casting
> > and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and
> to share
> photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
> sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
> >
> > Files area and list services are at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be
> otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
> > owly@...
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to
> share photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message
> to: sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot
> be otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

QUESTION:
Why is it so difficult to melt & reclaim aluminium in a
hobby gas fired crucible furnace?

Most commercial scrap metal recovery foundries use what
is known as rotary type melting furnaces. This type
of furnace has the flame strike the furnace lining and
the exhaust heat spreads around the furnace walls which
absorb the heat.
As the furnace rotates the heat is taken up by the metal.

It is essential to melt the metal under a cover of MOLTEN
FLUX, otherwise very heavy oxidation results.

As each piece of small swarf or chip melts, it forms a
globule of liquid metal surrounded by a shell of oxide.
The skin tension of this oxidant around the globule
prevents coalescence, i.e. (to grow together) and because
of the large surface area presented by the mass of
globules, an increase of oxide formation, and LOSS of
yield is bound to take place.

The skin of the oxide has to be "ruptured" in order to allow
coalescence.

The molten flux encourages this by chemical action.

While the rotation of the furnace provides a mechanical action.
The special flux called Coveral 48 or 57 are the correct fluxes
to use when melting in the region of 590 to 600 C.
   (Coveral 48 & 57 are Foseco products)
This flux may or may not have reasonable results when used
in a normal crucible furnace, but the yield loss will still be considerable.

The hobby foundry worker would be better of directing his
energy towards collecting easier to get, and better quality
scrap to melt, such as old cylinder heads, inlet manifold
castings, auto pistons, etc.
Or if the budget stretches that far...commercial ingots.
Top quality metal right from the word go.

Article supplied by: http://www.myhomefoundry.com
  From the May 2004 edition of:
The Hot Metal ezine.
http://www.myhomefoundry.com/page7.htm

*************************************

kiwiavi wrote:

> I do a lot of machining and I have just dumped away a large container
> of aluminum cuttings. If any one is looking for good aluminum, try
> your local machine shop, better still a CNC shop. If the company is
> machining aircraft components you could be in for some good quality
> scrap.  Any commets.
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share photos
and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be otherwise
solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

In a message dated 11/1/2004 3:27:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
col_jan@... writes:

The  hobby foundry worker would be better of directing his
energy towards  collecting easier to get, and better quality
scrap to melt, such as old  cylinder heads, inlet manifold
castings, auto pistons,  etc.



I've had good luck with old disk drive cases. The thing to remember  is to
find cast aluminum items since they obviously can be cast so have a good  mix of
alloys plus may still have some flux still in them. Melting extruded  scrap
aluminum is not as good to melt and pour.

Rick Sparber

rgsparber@...
my  website: rgsparber.fifthprime.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Kiwiavi,  my experience has shown that the swarf from shops isn't
the best source of melting stock, mainly due to oils and/or solvents
used on the metal when it's machined.  They'll create lots of noxious
(not necessisarily toxic, but not conducive to a contructive
relationship with the neighbors) smoke and fumes.  I love the smell
of Tapmagic, but not when it's burning...  Plus, as others have
mentioned, the small slivers/chips have a relatively large surface
area that will oxidize very rapidly and produce more dross than other
solid blocks the same size.  In this situation, it may be better to
pack these into bundles/blocks and take them to the recycler yard for
cash and/or trade for previously cast material.  You would actually
have a better casting material with the previously cast metal than
with the swarf too...

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know!"

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "kiwiavi" <kiwiavi@x> wrote:
>
> I do a lot of machining and I have just dumped away a large
container
> of aluminum cuttings. If any one is looking for good aluminum, try
> your local machine shop, better still a CNC shop. If the company is
> machining aircraft components you could be in for some good quality
> scrap.  Any commets.

Hi Charles,  as far as the alloy wheels are concerned, I've melted
about 5 or so, all of different makes.  I've not found any Magnesium
in any of them.  The wheels ranged from what I consider as "High
Dollar" from a wrecked corvette wheel (still had the logo on it when
I pulled it out of the dumpster, and somebody's dad was probably
really pissed that their son ran it into the curb at a high rate of
speed) all the was down to "third party aftermarket" wheels.  I did
both the "acid" test and torching a sliver before melting them, it
came back negative on both accounts.  The sliver test involves
shaving a sliver off of the wheel and then putting a torch to it to
see if it lights off with a beautiful bright white light, and the
acid test is putting a drop of muratic acid on the spot you just
shaved off (clean metal) and look for immediate bubbling/reacting.  I
use my "Turkey Fryer" burner to heat them up to hot-shot temp, then
throw them into a large wash bucket and whackalate with a 3lb.
drilling hammer.  They usually crumble into quite usable size
pieces.  It takes a little while with the mass of the wheel, but
eventually everything gets heated nicely and falls apart.  I've
averaged about 20lbs. or so per wheel of nice ingots after using this
process.

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know!"


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <lancedulak@y...> wrote:
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, rgsparber@a... wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/31/2004 5:31:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > gene98329@c... writes:
> >
> > now back
> > to thinking on how to melt a car wheel without breaking it  up!
> >
> >
> > The trick I have heard is to dig a hole, fill it with charcoal
> and  get it
> > going with a bit of air flow. Then roast the wheel in the fire
> until it  gets
> > brittle. Then hit it with a sledge. It should not shatter like
> glass but  rather
> > break like warm plastic. I have used this technique on large hard
> drive
> > cases but not with something as big as a wheel.
> >
> > Rick Sparber
> >
> > rgsparber@A...
> > my  website: rgsparber.fifthprime.com
>
> What kind of wheel are you talking about? I assumed you were
> attempting to melt a steel wheel for some reason. If its
> an "aluminum" wheel... DONT. Most "aluminum" wheels are magnesium
> alloys. And magnesium burns HOT. In other words you could end up
> with the mother of all unquenchable fires. And hitting it with a
> sledgehammer.. flying molten anything is scary scary scary stuff.
>
> Have yo uthoguht of finding a friend with a log splitter? My
brother
> just bought one (he actively searches for things to waste money on)
> and im planning on hauling some transmission casings etc to his
> house soon hehe.

I have tried to recover aluminum fron dross and other low-quality sources,
and I agree with you 100%
>
> QUESTION:
> Why is it so difficult to melt & reclaim aluminium in a
> hobby gas fired crucible furnace?
>
> Most commercial scrap metal recovery foundries use what
> is known as rotary type melting furnaces. This type
> of furnace has the flame strike the furnace lining and
> the exhaust heat spreads around the furnace walls which
> absorb the heat.
> As the furnace rotates the heat is taken up by the metal.
>
> It is essential to melt the metal under a cover of MOLTEN
> FLUX, otherwise very heavy oxidation results.
>
> As each piece of small swarf or chip melts, it forms a
> globule of liquid metal surrounded by a shell of oxide.
> The skin tension of this oxidant around the globule
> prevents coalescence, i.e. (to grow together) and because
> of the large surface area presented by the mass of
> globules, an increase of oxide formation, and LOSS of
> yield is bound to take place.
>
> The skin of the oxide has to be "ruptured" in order to allow
> coalescence.
>
> The molten flux encourages this by chemical action.
>
> While the rotation of the furnace provides a mechanical action.
> The special flux called Coveral 48 or 57 are the correct fluxes
> to use when melting in the region of 590 to 600 C.
>   (Coveral 48 & 57 are Foseco products)
> This flux may or may not have reasonable results when used
> in a normal crucible furnace, but the yield loss will still be considerable.
>
> The hobby foundry worker would be better of directing his
> energy towards collecting easier to get, and better quality
> scrap to melt, such as old cylinder heads, inlet manifold
> castings, auto pistons, etc.
> Or if the budget stretches that far...commercial ingots.
> Top quality metal right from the word go.
>
> Article supplied by: http://www.myhomefoundry.com
>  From the May 2004 edition of:
> The Hot Metal ezine.
> http://www.myhomefoundry.com/page7.htm
>
> *************************************
>
> kiwiavi wrote:
>
>> I do a lot of machining and I have just dumped away a large container
>> of aluminum cuttings. If any one is looking for good aluminum, try
>> your local machine shop, better still a CNC shop. If the company is
>> machining aircraft components you could be in for some good quality
>> scrap.  Any commets.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> This list is for discussion of metal casting
>> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share
photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
>> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>>
>> Files area and list services are at:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be otherwise
solved contact the list owner by email:
>> owly@...
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share photos
and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be otherwise
solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

The video is too big of a download for me.  Look at his mini arc furnace,
though.  I guess this is proof that you can use a graphite mold for
thermite.  He does have some impressive safety precautions.   Dan P.
>
>
> Here is a web page where someone used Thermite (the Iron Oxide was salvaged by
> running a magnet through sand) to cast an iron chain link.  Check out:
>
> http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/026/index.s7.html#sample17
>
> There is also a video of the casting on this site.
>
>
> John N.
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share photos
and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be otherwise
solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I keep reading about the problems of melting swarf and soda cans and
breaking down large castings down to fit in a crucible.  Is there really
a shortage of pistons that will fit, as is, in most crucibles?

Ed Paradis wrote:

>Hi Kiwiavi,  my experience has shown that the swarf from shops isn't
>the best source of melting stock, mainly due to oils and/or solvents
>used on the metal when it's machined.
>

Hi John,  in my opinion, the only shortage associated with pistons is
the knowledge of how and where to obtain them.  I have routinely used
pistons, they come in a perfect size for my crucible (and other's
too, I'll suspect).  I have a couple of autoparts places that do
machine work that I've worked on the relationship for a while and
they'll give me the pistons just for asking.  I'll go in occasionally
and pick up some oil, gas dry (methanol for my K bond) or clamps,
etc, just to establish a working relationship with them.  If you do
work with other things like machine work, they're also a good source
for large ball bearings (using the balls as tool handle ends, etc.)
from spent axle bearings, etc.  Most of these things are items that
are either tossed out or sold to a junk man for scrap.  My last haul
from one parts store netted 40 pistons...  Just remember to take the
pins and rings out of them, and most pistons seem to have a steel
reinforcement plate in them to, just fish it out before pouring...

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know!"

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, John Grant <grantjoh@p...> wrote:
> I keep reading about the problems of melting swarf and soda cans
and
> breaking down large castings down to fit in a crucible.  Is there
really
> a shortage of pistons that will fit, as is, in most crucibles?
>
> Ed Paradis wrote:
>
> >Hi Kiwiavi,  my experience has shown that the swarf from shops
isn't
> >the best source of melting stock, mainly due to oils and/or
solvents
> >used on the metal when it's machined.
> >

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <lancedulak@y...> wrote:
>
> ---> What kind of wheel are you talking about? I assumed you were
> attempting to melt a steel wheel for some reason. If its
> an "aluminum" wheel... DONT. Most "aluminum" wheels are magnesium
> alloys. And magnesium burns HOT. In other words you could end up
> with the mother of all unquenchable fires. And hitting it with a
> sledgehammer.. flying molten anything is scary scary scary stuff.
>
> Have yo uthoguht of finding a friend with a log splitter? My
brother
> just bought one (he actively searches for things to waste money on)
> and im planning on hauling some transmission casings etc to his
> house soon hehe.

++++++++Some wheels might be mag? but the ones I've been getting are
what's being touted as 356 AL alloy. I got some from a recycler that
were already broken into smaller chunks, although still too large for
my crucible. I can find alloy wheels that have been ran into curbs or
cracked due to pothole hits etc and think this is a great source of
metal for my projects. The log splitter idea would be great but don't
know anyone that has one, and probably end up breaking it anyway? The
Hot Short method works but I am basiclly a lazy guy and would like to
toss in a large hunk turn on the burner and pour out clean metal into
ingot molds. This shouldn't be too difficult of a task with a larger
burner (1" or so) would probably melt a wheel in no time, now to
figure out the furnace design that will accept wheels, trannies, etc!

Cheers Gene

> This shouldn't be too difficult of a task with a larger
> burner (1" or so) would probably melt a wheel in no time, now to
> figure out the furnace design that will accept wheels, trannies, etc!
>
> Cheers Gene

Hello Gene - I was doing tonight's crossword and giving the above a
secondary think...

Thoughts went something like so ... build a 24" diameter x 8" high furnace.
The bottom of the refractory is conical towards a flue-sized hole in the
centre. It's lid is 50 gallon drum lined with Fibrefrax - that's big enough
to accomodate most gearbox housings. This "pancake" furnace is permanently
mounted - high enough to allow a 20 pound propane tank furnace to be moved
underneath and to be lifted against the bottom of the 2-footer. (picture a
railed carriage with a scissors type of lifter-upper)

Operation:

i) place a crucible in the bottom furnace, run it under the big'un and raise
it up against it
ii) start warming up the crucible
iii) place an alloy wheel rim/gearbox housing in the upper furnace, put on
it's hat and light up it's "Mningi" burner.

As the wheel melts, the molten aluminium runs down into the crucible. When
the donor article is nowhere to be found, lower and move the bottom furnace
to one side and pig-out or cast from the crucible.

On second thoughts it would be safer to lift the "pancake" furnace and swing
it to one side.

Here's a link that should be of interest - especially as winter is coming
...

http://www.hotart.co.za/main.htm

The reason for posting it is that Alex, after a two to three day drying
period, applies the glaze, places those fireplaces on a plinth, lowers an
insulated 50 gallon drum over it and lets rip with the propane. I think he
said that he brings it up to 1200 C and holds it there for 8 - 10 hours.

OK - over to y'all - cheers edi

(Mningi?? = larger than big, much larger!)

Ed Paradis wrote:

>Hi John,  in my opinion, the only shortage associated with pistons is
>the knowledge of how and where to obtain them.
>
Seems like finding pistons would be no harder than finding swarf or wheels.

> I have routinely used
>pistons, they come in a perfect size for my crucible (and other's
>too, I'll suspect).  I have a couple of autoparts places that do
>machine work that I've worked on the relationship for a while and
>they'll give me the pistons just for asking.
>
Sounds like a good deal to me.

John Grant

>
> I've had good luck with old disk drive cases. The thing to
remember  is to
> find cast aluminum items since they obviously can be cast so have
a good  mix of
> alloys plus may still have some flux still in them. Melting
extruded  scrap
> aluminum is not as good to melt and pour.
>
> Rick Sparber


Go to your local junk yard. The actual junk yard not one of the
ripoff parts stripper/reseller places.  I mostly bought transmission
casings because they are in one piece. A standard alloy (pretty
strong but brittle alloy) and not lots of steel bolts, brass tubes
etc in them. As you all know better than me people say pistons,
overhead intakes, carbs etc are better quality but for me it isnt
worth the hassle of dismantling the things.

I was considering buying casting al online.. lowest i could find
worked out to like $2-$2.50 a pound w shipping. (Higher now with the
insane gas prices). The junk yard i went too will sell me metric
tons of the stuff if i want. They dont care whether i take high
grade aluminum or junk (they had 8" x 3" wheels of al i could KICK
myself for not getting to machine!). The only downside is gassy
pours from the crap this stuff is usually covered in requires me to
get off my butt and learn how to degas when i cast something tha
actually matters.

Thanks a lot for the info. I didnt mean to sound.. "know it all" or
rude or anything. I just know (as you do better than i it seems)
that people have actually done it and had lifechanging results.
Magnesium + fire is dangerous dangerous stuff.

On the other hand now that you've told me this i might call up some
tire changing shops etc for their scrap al wheels. But then again im
still dreaming of finding a machine shop that still dumps its scrap
and has a dumpster near the road and not heavily police patrolled
*grin*

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Paradis" <eparadis@a...> wrote:
>
> Hi Charles,  as far as the alloy wheels are concerned, I've melted
> about 5 or so, all of different makes.  I've not found any
Magnesium
> in any of them.  The wheels ranged from what I consider as "High
> Dollar" from a wrecked corvette wheel (still had the logo on it
when
> I pulled it out of the dumpster, and somebody's dad was probably
> really pissed that their son ran it into the curb at a high rate
of
> speed) all the was down to "third party aftermarket" wheels.  I
did
> both the "acid" test and torching a sliver before melting them, it
> came back negative on both accounts.  The sliver test involves
> shaving a sliver off of the wheel and then putting a torch to it
to
> see if it lights off with a beautiful bright white light, and the
> acid test is putting a drop of muratic acid on the spot you just
> shaved off (clean metal) and look for immediate
bubbling/reacting.  I
> use my "Turkey Fryer" burner to heat them up to hot-shot temp,
then
> throw them into a large wash bucket and whackalate with a 3lb.
> drilling hammer.  They usually crumble into quite usable size
> pieces.  It takes a little while with the mass of the wheel, but
> eventually everything gets heated nicely and falls apart.  I've
> averaged about 20lbs. or so per wheel of nice ingots after using
this
> process.
>
> Ed
> "Expiring minds want to know!"
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <lancedulak@y...>
wrote:
> >
> > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, rgsparber@a... wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 10/31/2004 5:31:15 PM Pacific Standard
Time,
> > > gene98329@c... writes:
> > >
> > > now back
> > > to thinking on how to melt a car wheel without breaking it  up!
> > >
> > >
> > > The trick I have heard is to dig a hole, fill it with charcoal
> > and  get it
> > > going with a bit of air flow. Then roast the wheel in the fire
> > until it  gets
> > > brittle. Then hit it with a sledge. It should not shatter like
> > glass but  rather
> > > break like warm plastic. I have used this technique on large
hard
> > drive
> > > cases but not with something as big as a wheel.
> > >
> > > Rick Sparber
> > >
> > > rgsparber@A...
> > > my  website: rgsparber.fifthprime.com
> >
> > What kind of wheel are you talking about? I assumed you were
> > attempting to melt a steel wheel for some reason. If its
> > an "aluminum" wheel... DONT. Most "aluminum" wheels are
magnesium
> > alloys. And magnesium burns HOT. In other words you could end up
> > with the mother of all unquenchable fires. And hitting it with a
> > sledgehammer.. flying molten anything is scary scary scary stuff.
> >
> > Have yo uthoguht of finding a friend with a log splitter? My
> brother
> > just bought one (he actively searches for things to waste money
on)
> > and im planning on hauling some transmission casings etc to his
> > house soon hehe.

No reason i can see you couldnt use a graphite mold. This guy is
THROWING money at his projects though heh. Machined graphite molds
for chain links? Heck we bitch about spending an extra buck for a
bag of sand to cast with *grin*

His stuff did give me some neat ideas. I live near the railroad
tracks and you can literally walk up the tracks and pick up spikes
etc all day long they've discarded. Ive heard its superhard so
wouldnt want to machine it but... be kinda nice to machine a
graphite mold for 2" diameter x 24" steel bars etc etc etc :P

Only downside.. did you notice the finish on the castings? ROUGH. I
would have thought a graphite mold and that ultrahigh heat would
have made them smooth as glass.

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel C Postellon"
<postello@m...> wrote:
> The video is too big of a download for me.  Look at his mini arc
furnace,
> though.  I guess this is proof that you can use a graphite mold
for
> thermite.  He does have some impressive safety precautions.   Dan
P.
> >
> >
> > Here is a web page where someone used Thermite (the Iron Oxide
was salvaged by
> > running a magnet through sand) to cast an iron chain link.
Check out:
> >
> >
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/026/index.s7.html#
sample17
> >
> > There is also a video of the casting on this site.
> >
> >
> > John N.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > This list is for discussion of metal casting
> > and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and
to share photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank
message to: sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
> >
> > Files area and list services are at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot
be otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
> > owly@t...
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

Read my previous post on this if you will. I didnt mean it to sound
rude if it did.

Ah my brothers a nut. You could chop a car in half with the splitter
he got (i'm not kidding). Trust me i tried to think of ANYTHING
before. Ended up using a portable bandsaw after a couple days
wearing myself out with a sledgehammer, sore muscles, flying metal,
and not much success.

I'm thinking along your lines now. The other kind of foundry (forgot
the name) that basicall ylets you ladle out the metal (not a
cupola). Supposed to be more efficient too and perfect for ingot
making (not so much for casting).

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "gene98329" <gene98329@c...> wrote:
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <lancedulak@y...>
wrote:
> >
> > ---> What kind of wheel are you talking about? I assumed you
were
> > attempting to melt a steel wheel for some reason. If its
> > an "aluminum" wheel... DONT. Most "aluminum" wheels are
magnesium
> > alloys. And magnesium burns HOT. In other words you could end up
> > with the mother of all unquenchable fires. And hitting it with a
> > sledgehammer.. flying molten anything is scary scary scary stuff.
> >
> > Have yo uthoguht of finding a friend with a log splitter? My
> brother
> > just bought one (he actively searches for things to waste money
on)
> > and im planning on hauling some transmission casings etc to his
> > house soon hehe.
>
> ++++++++Some wheels might be mag? but the ones I've been getting
are
> what's being touted as 356 AL alloy. I got some from a recycler
that
> were already broken into smaller chunks, although still too large
for
> my crucible. I can find alloy wheels that have been ran into curbs
or
> cracked due to pothole hits etc and think this is a great source
of
> metal for my projects. The log splitter idea would be great but
don't
> know anyone that has one, and probably end up breaking it anyway?
The
> Hot Short method works but I am basiclly a lazy guy and would like
to
> toss in a large hunk turn on the burner and pour out clean metal
into
> ingot molds. This shouldn't be too difficult of a task with a
larger
> burner (1" or so) would probably melt a wheel in no time, now to
> figure out the furnace design that will accept wheels, trannies,
etc!
>
> Cheers Gene

Try this out

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/furnace2/furnace.html

Notice the extremely cool lack of a crucible :)


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...> wrote:
> > This shouldn't be too difficult of a task with a larger
> > burner (1" or so) would probably melt a wheel in no time, now to
> > figure out the furnace design that will accept wheels, trannies,
etc!
> >
> > Cheers Gene
>
> Hello Gene - I was doing tonight's crossword and giving the above a
> secondary think...
>
> Thoughts went something like so ... build a 24" diameter x 8" high
furnace.
> The bottom of the refractory is conical towards a flue-sized hole
in the
> centre. It's lid is 50 gallon drum lined with Fibrefrax - that's
big enough
> to accomodate most gearbox housings. This "pancake" furnace is
permanently
> mounted - high enough to allow a 20 pound propane tank furnace to
be moved
> underneath and to be lifted against the bottom of the 2-footer.
(picture a
> railed carriage with a scissors type of lifter-upper)
>
> Operation:
>
> i) place a crucible in the bottom furnace, run it under the big'un
and raise
> it up against it
> ii) start warming up the crucible
> iii) place an alloy wheel rim/gearbox housing in the upper
furnace, put on
> it's hat and light up it's "Mningi" burner.
>
> As the wheel melts, the molten aluminium runs down into the
crucible. When
> the donor article is nowhere to be found, lower and move the
bottom furnace
> to one side and pig-out or cast from the crucible.
>
> On second thoughts it would be safer to lift the "pancake" furnace
and swing
> it to one side.
>
> Here's a link that should be of interest - especially as winter is
coming
> ...
>
> http://www.hotart.co.za/main.htm
>
> The reason for posting it is that Alex, after a two to three day
drying
> period, applies the glaze, places those fireplaces on a plinth,
lowers an
> insulated 50 gallon drum over it and lets rip with the propane. I
think he
> said that he brings it up to 1200 C and holds it there for 8 - 10
hours.
>
> OK - over to y'all - cheers edi
>
> (Mningi?? = larger than big, much larger!)

The local tip guy here converts all his aluminium scrap into ingots in a
homemade tilt furnace...basically a cement mixer with refractory lining ,
lid and homebrew burner.


----- Original Message -----
From: "gene98329" <gene98329@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:43 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++


>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <lancedulak@y...> wrote:
> >
> > ---> What kind of wheel are you talking about? I assumed you were
> > attempting to melt a steel wheel for some reason. If its
> > an "aluminum" wheel... DONT. Most "aluminum" wheels are magnesium
> > alloys. And magnesium burns HOT. In other words you could end up
> > with the mother of all unquenchable fires. And hitting it with a
> > sledgehammer.. flying molten anything is scary scary scary stuff.
> >
> > Have yo uthoguht of finding a friend with a log splitter? My
> brother
> > just bought one (he actively searches for things to waste money on)
> > and im planning on hauling some transmission casings etc to his
> > house soon hehe.
>
> ++++++++Some wheels might be mag? but the ones I've been getting are
> what's being touted as 356 AL alloy. I got some from a recycler that
> were already broken into smaller chunks, although still too large for
> my crucible. I can find alloy wheels that have been ran into curbs or
> cracked due to pothole hits etc and think this is a great source of
> metal for my projects. The log splitter idea would be great but don't
> know anyone that has one, and probably end up breaking it anyway? The
> Hot Short method works but I am basiclly a lazy guy and would like to
> toss in a large hunk turn on the burner and pour out clean metal into
> ingot molds. This shouldn't be too difficult of a task with a larger
> burner (1" or so) would probably melt a wheel in no time, now to
> figure out the furnace design that will accept wheels, trannies, etc!
>
> Cheers Gene
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share
photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be
otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...> wrote:

++++++Yes !!! Exactly what I was thinking but probably a stand alone
unit.   Thanks for the great idea!!  Gene







> Hello Gene - I was doing tonight's crossword and giving the above a
> secondary think...
>
> Thoughts went something like so ... build a 24" diameter x 8" high
furnace.
> The bottom of the refractory is conical towards a flue-sized hole
in the
> centre. It's lid is 50 gallon drum lined with Fibrefrax - that's
big enough
> to accomodate most gearbox housings. This "pancake" furnace is
permanently
> mounted - high enough to allow a 20 pound propane tank furnace to
be moved
> underneath and to be lifted against the bottom of the 2-footer.
(picture a
> railed carriage with a scissors type of lifter-upper)
>
> Operation:
>
> i) place a crucible in the bottom furnace, run it under the big'un
and raise
> it up against it
> ii) start warming up the crucible
> iii) place an alloy wheel rim/gearbox housing in the upper
furnace, put on
> it's hat and light up it's "Mningi" burner.
>
> As the wheel melts, the molten aluminium runs down into the
crucible. When
> the donor article is nowhere to be found, lower and move the
bottom furnace
> to one side and pig-out or cast from the crucible.
>
> On second thoughts it would be safer to lift the "pancake" furnace
and swing
> it to one side.
>
> Here's a link that should be of interest - especially as winter is
coming
> ...
>
> http://www.hotart.co.za/main.htm
>
> The reason for posting it is that Alex, after a two to three day
drying
> period, applies the glaze, places those fireplaces on a plinth,
lowers an
> insulated 50 gallon drum over it and lets rip with the propane. I
think he
> said that he brings it up to 1200 C and holds it there for 8 - 10
hours.
>
> OK - over to y'all - cheers edi
>
> (Mningi?? = larger than big, much larger!)

Hello Gene - I started thinking of the pancake furnace as a stand alone
unit. Then I thought about where and how to handle the melt.

Taraaah - taraah - taratrataraaaah...

Enter the bottom half of the propane bottle furnace and crucible from stage
left. It supplies the purpose-designed, pre-heated catch tank from which
it's easy to move the melt elsewhere. Just make sure that whatever you are
melting is less than the volume of the crucible.

There are a couple of empty, condemned 45 lb propane bottles in the workshop
just waiting for the attention of my angle grinder.... One will end up as a
compressed air receiver. Now where can I source a 24' diameter plough disc?

cheers edi



----- Original Message -----
From: "gene98329" <gene98329@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:20 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++


>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...> wrote:
>
> ++++++Yes !!! Exactly what I was thinking but probably a stand alone
> unit.   Thanks for the great idea!!  Gene

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...> wrote:
  Just make sure that whatever you are
> melting is less than the volume of the crucible.

++++++++There in lies the problem! I suspect an AL wheel would be
more mtal than I would want dropping into a crucible? The weight of
just the cold wheel is more than I would want out at the end of a
set of crucible tongs. I was thinking more on the lines of a tilting
furnace. My design thus far would be something rectangle or oval
with a sump below a pouring spout. The lid of the furnace would hold
the burner or burners. It would work something like a wheelborrow so
that when the metal was melted I could tip it to pour into an ingot
mold. The ingot molds could be on a lazysusan or roller track so I
could fill move ahead and fill more until the melt was all ingotized.
Actually the wheelborrow might be a good starter on getting the idea
into a prototype?
The furnace could resemble a steamer trunk with the spout being the
exhaust hole and the sump sloped deeper on the opposite end.

Gene
>

Gene,  I think that you probably want something like this
http://www.forzano.com/smelter.html . But is a big tipping furnace.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: gene98329 [mailto:gene98329@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 5:48 PM
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...> wrote:
  Just make sure that whatever you are
> melting is less than the volume of the crucible.

++++++++There in lies the problem! I suspect an AL wheel would be
more mtal than I would want dropping into a crucible? The weight of
just the cold wheel is more than I would want out at the end of a
set of crucible tongs. I was thinking more on the lines of a tilting
furnace. My design thus far would be something rectangle or oval
with a sump below a pouring spout. The lid of the furnace would hold
the burner or burners. It would work something like a wheelborrow so
that when the metal was melted I could tip it to pour into an ingot
mold. The ingot molds could be on a lazysusan or roller track so I
could fill move ahead and fill more until the melt was all ingotized.
Actually the wheelborrow might be a good starter on getting the idea
into a prototype?
The furnace could resemble a steamer trunk with the spout being the
exhaust hole and the sump sloped deeper on the opposite end.

Gene
>






This list is for discussion of metal casting
and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share
photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
http://budgetcastingsupply.com/

Files area and list services are at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be
otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
owly@...


Yahoo! Groups Links

I'll post a pic of my two man/woman er person tongs we.............. the
wife and I. lift 35 lb of cast iron with them )16 lb aluminum) out of a 22
inch  tall furnace and set it on a two ......... person pouring shank. its a
piece of cake could do twice as much and may have to in aluminum
Leon in Luther
----- Original Message -----
From: "brewer" <danielbrewer2004@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:13 PM
Subject: RE: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++


>
> Gene,  I think that you probably want something like this
> http://www.forzano.com/smelter.html . But is a big tipping furnace.
> Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gene98329 [mailto:gene98329@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 5:48 PM
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...> wrote:
>  Just make sure that whatever you are
> > melting is less than the volume of the crucible.
>
> ++++++++There in lies the problem! I suspect an AL wheel would be
> more mtal than I would want dropping into a crucible? The weight of
> just the cold wheel is more than I would want out at the end of a
> set of crucible tongs. I was thinking more on the lines of a tilting
> furnace. My design thus far would be something rectangle or oval
> with a sump below a pouring spout. The lid of the furnace would hold
> the burner or burners. It would work something like a wheelborrow so
> that when the metal was melted I could tip it to pour into an ingot
> mold. The ingot molds could be on a lazysusan or roller track so I
> could fill move ahead and fill more until the melt was all ingotized.
> Actually the wheelborrow might be a good starter on getting the idea
> into a prototype?
> The furnace could resemble a steamer trunk with the spout being the
> exhaust hole and the sump sloped deeper on the opposite end.
>
> Gene
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share
> photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
> sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be
> otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is for discussion of metal casting
> and does not accept attachments.  For off topic discussion and to share
photos and stuff:  join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast For problems that cannot be
otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
> owly@...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hey Leon, be careful when you're posting the pics, the photo album is
almost full again and it has a propensity to "lock up" when the max
is exceeded...  Maybe an opportunity for others to "clean up" their
folders??

Ed
"Expiring minds want to know!"

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Leon Risenhoover <lrisen@d...>
wrote:
> I'll post a pic of my two man/woman er person tongs
we.............. the
> wife and I. lift 35 lb of cast iron with them )16 lb aluminum) out
of a 22
> inch  tall furnace and set it on a two ......... person pouring
shank. its a
> piece of cake could do twice as much and may have to in aluminum
> Leon in Luther
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "brewer" <danielbrewer2004@c...>
> To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:13 PM
> Subject: RE: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++
>
>
> >
> > Gene,  I think that you probably want something like this
> > http://www.forzano.com/smelter.html . But is a big tipping
furnace.
> > Dan
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: gene98329 [mailto:gene98329@c...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 5:48 PM
> > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Aluminum Supply +++++
> >
> >
> > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "edi malinaric" <emovi@m...>
wrote:
> >  Just make sure that whatever you are
> > > melting is less than the volume of the crucible.
> >
> > ++++++++There in lies the problem! I suspect an AL wheel would be
> > more mtal than I would want dropping into a crucible? The weight
of
> > just the cold wheel is more than I would want out at the end of a
> > set of crucible tongs. I was thinking more on the lines of a
tilting
> > furnace. My design thus far would be something rectangle or oval
> > with a sump below a pouring spout. The lid of the furnace would
hold
> > the burner or burners. It would work something like a wheelborrow
so
> > that when the metal was melted I could tip it to pour into an
ingot
> > mold. The ingot molds could be on a lazysusan or roller track so I
> > could fill move ahead and fill more until the melt was all
ingotized.
> > Actually the wheelborrow might be a good starter on getting the
idea
> > into a prototype?
> > The furnace could resemble a steamer trunk with the spout being
the
> > exhaust hole and the sump sloped deeper on the opposite end.
> >
> > Gene
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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