I found an interesting article in the Aug. 2000 issue of Woodwork
Magazine pages 66 to 72.  "Replacing babbitt bearings" by Mike Burton
includes 14 large photographs/drawings.  Basis of the article is that if
you are running a woodworking shop with Pre-1900 machinery, you need to
know how to pour babbitt.
Some of the topics are:  How to brew your own babbitt  (wheel weights
and lead-free solder), pouring the bearing, truing the bearing, paper
spacers, oil, and the care and feeding of babbitt bearings.
A very good article that wanted to let you all know about...

--
Ray Menke
Linux/Mutt 0.95.3i/emacs/sendmail/fetchmail from the tty console.

Howard,
     Thanks for moving the Hobbicast list to
e-groups,my wife is a
member of several groups on this server and says that
it is much
better than many others,I hope so as ListBot is'nt so
good...
     I see that this server has a "Chat" room for the
club
members,maybe all of us could agree on a day/time for
this,I think it
would be a great help to us "green" metal casters to
get real-time
answers to some questions we (I) might (would) have.
     My BIG news of the month is that I believe I've
found a (really)
local Bentonite supplier...As a matter of fact,the Co.
is only 1/4 of
a mile from where I work! They are a supplier to Well
Drillers in
this area and I am going to stop by there tomorrow
after work and
check the offerings.
           Once again,Thanks,
                        Jeff



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com

Thanks, I'll see if I can find the magazine.  john

As far as the manufacturer of the various materials goes the comment is
probably right about small orders.  As far as a downstream distributor is
concerned the problem is the EPA.  The bureaucrats lay some heavy
requirements on repackaging of so called hazardous materials.  The paperwork
and training can be prohibitive.
Esp. on proprietary materials.

Dick Smith
dws@...
Spokane

----- Original Message -----
From: "mike" <mdmart@...>
To: "Hobbicast" <Hobbicast@...>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Hobbicast] Supplies


> Hobbicast - http://members.xoom.com/HWilkinson/index.htm
>
>
> Mike Martin  mdmart@...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John A. Hern Jr" <hern@...>
> To: "Hobbicast" <Hobbicast@...>
> Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 7:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [Hobbicast] Supplies
>
>
> > Hobbicast - http://members.xoom.com/HWilkinson/index.htm
> >
>>, the owner, said that when he started working for
> > the company 30 or 40 years ago, his job was to empty 55 gallon drums
> > into 1 gallon pails, and mark on the top what the stuff was with a magic
> > marker.  He said that today, the gummint regulations essentially
> > prohibit repackaging, because of the costs involved in maintaining
> > "clean rooms", spill proceedures, marking and material safety data
> > sheets, and so forth> >
> > So, tough luck, guys.  Unless you can find a local foundry to get some
> > supplies from, you have to buy in factory packages.
> >
> > John.
> >
>*********************
> The logic in this situation escapes me.  This company won't sell a gallon
of
> a chemical because they are worried about being sued, but they will sell
55
> gallons?  Sounds more likely that they don't want to be bothered with
small
> orders.
> **********************
Mike.____________________________________________________________________
> > To unsubscribe, write to Hobbicast-unsubscribe@...
> > ______________________________________________________________________
> > Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com
> >
>
> _____________________________________________
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
> Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
> http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe, write to Hobbicast-unsubscribe@...
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com
>

Howard,

Thanks for your work with the list.

It appears that there was at least one glitch in the transition. Today I
got email with the message "Welcome to the HotPennyStocks.com Mailing
List!!!!!" I've already unsubscribed, but thought I'd pass it on in case
anyone else got a similar message.

Dick Morris
Anchorage, Alaska

Hello all,
     Sorry about the empty e-mail just sent to the
list,accidently hit the "enter" button after the
subject box.....
     Anyway,being new to this,I've seen the term
"mulling" quite often.I assume this means mixing-but
in some special way.Exactly what is "mulling'? I think
it also has something to do with *squeezing* the
sand,but not sure what this action would do for the
green sand blend.....Another>>> What does "Skull" mean
as far as refractory linings?
Best Regards,
         Jeff

__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com

All members of the old mailing list should now be subscribed to the new
list.....

THE OLD LIST WILL BE DISCONTINUED TONIGHT

I have subscribed all members of the old list to the new list on
egroups.com.....  As far as I know..... if someone is not getting messages
from the new list please have them contact me privately......

Messages to the group should be addressed to hobbicast@egroups.com

to subscribe or unsubscribe from the new list send a blank message to the
following addresses:


to subscribe:  hobbicast-subscribe@egroups.com
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              Thanks for your patience............       H.W.

I think the cheap cat litter from WalMart is
pretty much all bentonite (it has the ingredients
on the bag.)  I'm going to try using
some the next time I mix up sand.  It's not
ground up as fine as you'd like for mixing, but
I think it should work okay.  The sand-clay-water
mix seems to be a lot more forgiving than I would
have expected before I actually tried it.

I get washed play sand at Home Depot and mix
in clay to make my moulding sand.  It comes in
50 lb bags for a couple dollars and says it's
good for sandboxes, moulding, or construction.

I bought a 5 gallon pail of core bonder from
Malcolm Stevens in Arlington Mass.  They
were happy to sell me things and even scooped
some powdered graphite out of a big barrel into a
small bag to sell to me.  They were glad to see me
and to sell things to me and seemed eager to
deal with small time customers.  They had
several different strength core binders with
different percents of sodium silicate and
sugar in them to give different strengths of core.

I made the cores, let them sit in the cellar for
a couple days, pasted the two halves together,
and poured my aluminum.  The core turned carmel
color from the heat and when I soaked the remains
of the core in water the sand grains seem to have
come all unstuck from each other.

Stephen C. Lovely

Jeff, When sand is mulled it is squeezed between wheels and the bottom of the
muller while plows are mixing the sand and other additives. This action coats
each grain of sand evenly. "Skull" Is the left over metal that hardens in and
on the side of your crucible. Hope this helps.
Charles Logan
  <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/hfd220/index.html">A & B Castings, Inc.</A>
http://members.aol.com/hfd220/index.html

At the risk of being pushy I will send this e-mail again, Sent it to the old
list home and never saw it posted.


<<There seem to a bit of confusion about what constitutes silica dust.
Silica dust you hear so much about is cyrstaline silica.  Crystalline refers
to the orientation of the SiO2 molecules in a fixed pattern as opposed to a
non-periodic, random molecular arrangement which is defined as amorphous
(glass). Examples of amorphous silica include opal, flint, and diatomaceous
earth. Three of the most common forms of crystalline silica encountered are
quartz, tridymite, and cristobalite.

Traditionally cristobalite has been considered the most hazardous
(carcinogen). It is a high-temp form of SiO2. Commonly this mineral is found
in fly-ash and other boiler by-products.

Other silcate minerals do not create silica dust - olivines, muscovite,
asbestos, etc. do not pose a silica dust hazard!

These dusts do contain silcon and may present other hazards but crystaline
silica exposure is not one of them.  I would reccommend that anybody who
handles fine grained materials of any composititon pay attention to
respiratory protection.  Lowered dust exposures can be achieved through local
ventilation, respirators, good house keeping, wetting the materials, etc.>>

Rex Wallace
Eugene, Oregon

Jeff,
To expand on what Charles said, mulling is absolutely necessary when mixing
up new green sand from scratch, and it takes a lot of work.  The wetting
agent (water or oil) dampens the clay (us. bentonite), then the clay must
coat each grain of sand for the batch to have good strength or adhesion.
Just stir them together and it will never work.  Rejuvenating sand that has
gotten weak from use is easier, a little water or oil and good mixing works.
I suggest finding premixed from whatever source, or maybe 'bank' or
naturally bonded sand.

Just a thought to the group.  If you have any foundry nearby, they will ususally
share a bucketfull of something which is more than most of us need.  Also, you
might check in with any college nearby that has an art program on the off chance
they do a little casting.  They often have contacts to suppliers who are willing
to deal in small quantities - it costs more per lb, but they have cool stuff.
Bob from Memphis

P.S. Thanks Howard, it works better now.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello everyone.... well, it was suggested that I try a well drilling supplier
for bentonite, as it is used as a lubricant and as a hole plug material....
well, it paid off... I found a Well Drilling Supplier just 5 miles from me, and
they had 50 pound bags of it for $6 a bag.....  I bought 2 bags... should last
me a while, and best of all, I know where to find it if I need more.... I found
it by looking under Well Drilling/Well Drilling Supplies on Superpages.com. 
Actually, I called a drilling company first, and they referred me to the company
to get the supplies.... The company was called Sinclair Well Products, and they
are supposed to be a nationwide supplier... actually, they were listed under
Water Supply Systems in the directory, but I'm sure you could find a well
drilling supplier near you if you are looking for bentonite.... this bentonite
is from Montana, so I guess that would make it Western Bentonite, right?  From
what I've read, Western is better than southern... is that the general thinking?
or just not true?  Oh well, I'm sure it doesn't matter much, and all I care is I
got some bentonite.... now I have to see if I can get the local foundry to mull
some sand for me... :)

Josh
josh_h@...




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

<_____________CuT------------------->
I think the cheap cat litter from WalMart is
pretty much all bentonite (it has the ingredients
on the bag.)  I'm going to try using
some the next time I mix up sand.  It's not
ground up as fine as you'd like for mixing, but
I think it should work okay.  The sand-clay-water
mix seems to be a lot more forgiving than I would
have expected before I actually tried it.
<_____________CuT------------------->

I was thinking about experimenting with el-cheapo kitty litter instead of
fireclay for a refractory lining, anybody see any problem with using
bentonite instead of fireclay?


----Original Message Follows----
From: Stephen Lovely <scl@...>
Reply-To: hobbicast@egroups.com
To: "'hobbicast@egroups.com'" <hobbicast@egroups.com>
Subject: [hobbicast] Bentonite and supplies
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:24:55 -0400
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I think the cheap cat litter from WalMart is
pretty much all bentonite (it has the ingredients
on the bag.)  I'm going to try using
some the next time I mix up sand.  It's not
ground up as fine as you'd like for mixing, but
I think it should work okay.  The sand-clay-water
mix seems to be a lot more forgiving than I would
have expected before I actually tried it.

I get washed play sand at Home Depot and mix
in clay to make my moulding sand.  It comes in
50 lb bags for a couple dollars and says it's
good for sandboxes, moulding, or construction.

I bought a 5 gallon pail of core bonder from
Malcolm Stevens in Arlington Mass.  They
were happy to sell me things and even scooped
some powdered graphite out of a big barrel into a
small bag to sell to me.  They were glad to see me
and to sell things to me and seemed eager to
deal with small time customers.  They had
several different strength core binders with
different percents of sodium silicate and
sugar in them to give different strengths of core.

I made the cores, let them sit in the cellar for
a couple days, pasted the two halves together,
and poured my aluminum.  The core turned carmel
color from the heat and when I soaked the remains
of the core in water the sand grains seem to have
come all unstuck from each other.

Stephen C. Lovely




________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

At 08:37 6/7/00 CDT, you wrote:

>From: Stephen Lovely <scl@...>
>Reply-To: hobbicast@egroups.com
>To: "'hobbicast@egroups.com'" <hobbicast@egroups.com>
>Subject: [hobbicast] Bentonite and supplies
>Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:24:55 -0400

>I think the cheap cat litter from WalMart is
>pretty much all bentonite....
>I get washed play sand at Home Depot and mix
>in clay to make my moulding sand.....
>I bought a 5 gallon pail of core bonder from
>Malcolm Stevens in Arlington Mass.... They had
>several different strength core binders with
>different percents of sodium silicate and
>sugar in them to give different strengths of core.
>
>I made the cores, let them sit in the cellar for
>a couple days, pasted the two halves together,
>and poured my aluminum.  The core turned carmel
>color from the heat and when I soaked the remains
>of the core in water the sand grains seem to have
>come all unstuck from each other.
>
>Stephen C. Lovely

Great post, Stephen, but did the core *taste* good!  :-)

Brian


brian whatcott <inet@...>
Altus OK

Josh,
I'm from Memphis.  We like southern bentonite.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Josh Haney <josh_h@...>
To: <hobbicast@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 12:46 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Found Bentonite! :) Was Finding Supplies.....


> Hello everyone.... well, it was suggested that I try a well drilling
supplier for bentonite, as it is used as a lubricant and as a hole plug
material.... well, it paid off... I found a Well Drilling Supplier just 5
miles from me, and they had 50 pound bags of it for $6 a bag.....  I bought
2 bags... should last me a while, and best of all, I know where to find it
if I need more.... I found it by looking under Well Drilling/Well Drilling
Supplies on Superpages.com.  Actually, I called a drilling company first,
and they referred me to the company to get the supplies.... The company was
called Sinclair Well Products, and they are supposed to be a nationwide
supplier... actually, they were listed under Water Supply Systems in the
directory, but I'm sure you could find a well drilling supplier near you if
you are looking for bentonite.... this bentonite is from Montana, so I guess
that would make it Western Bentonite, right?  From what I've read, Western
is better than southern... !
> is that the general thinking? or just not true?  Oh well, I'm sure it
doesn't matter much, and all I care is I got some bentonite.... now I have
to see if I can get the local foundry to mull some sand for me... :)
>
> Josh
> josh_h@...
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Remember four years of good friends, bad clothes, explosive chemistry
> experiments.
> http://click.egroups.com/1/4051/2/_/_/_/960356947/
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>

At 21:33 6/7/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Josh,
>I'm from Memphis.  We like southern bentonite.
>Bob

I've been letting the hobbicast messages just flow.

But thinking about it - I found Howard's summary of CO2 production
methods great, but even more astounding was the recommendation (From John??)
about using water glass bound silica sand to make a serviceable kiln.
Sand and waterglass are not the hardest things to find even in the wild
backwoods here...

That just has to be worth a shot!


brian whatcott <inet@...>
Altus OK

> But thinking about it - I found Howard's summary of CO2 production
> methods great, but even more astounding was the recommendation (From
> John??)
> about using water glass bound silica sand to make a serviceable kiln.
> Sand and waterglass are not the hardest things to find even in the wild
> backwoods here...
>
> That just has to be worth a shot!
>
>
> brian whatcott <inet@...>
> Altus OK
>
>

	 I used some of my regular molding sand (playsand and fireclay) to
make
	 the Gingery style furnace, as well as the top for it.  The whole
thing eventually
	 disintegrated.  I made a new top for it from the same sand, but
added some of
	 the waterglass/corn syrup core binder I had.  That top has outlasted
the
	 next furnace I made, using a perlite and "3000 degree F" refractory
cement
	 from Home Depot and has been through quite a few melts on the new
furnace
	 and still looks practially brand new.  I used a small tin can from
some vegetables
	 as the form for the hole in the middle and it oxidized to the point
were the bottom
	 rim fell off and I was able to pull the can out, but the rammed up
sand is
	 going strong.

	 Stephen C. Lovely

>>That top has outlasted
>>the
>>next furnace I made, using a perlite and "3000 degree F" refractory
>>cement
>>from Home Depot and has been through quite a few melts on the new
>>furnace


Stephen, did you say you got 3000 degree F refractory from Home Depot?  I've
never seen anything like that at my home depot... :)

Josh
josh_h@...

>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: Josh Haney [SMTP:josh_h@...]
>  Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 2:56 AM
>  To: hobbicast@egroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Found Bentonite! :)  Was Finding
> Supplies.....
>
>  >>That top has outlasted
>  >>the
>  >>next furnace I made, using a perlite and "3000 degree F"
> refractory
>  >>cement
>  >>from Home Depot and has been through quite a few melts on the new
>  >>furnace
>
>
>  Stephen, did you say you got 3000 degree F refractory from Home
> Depot?  I've
>  never seen anything like that at my home depot... :)
>

	 It's refractory cement and it comes in a plastic tub like you'd get
a gallon of ice cream or something
	 in.  I mixed it with perlite to give it body and provide some body.
I wasn't very happy with the
	 way it performed - with the perlite in it it tended to get runny and
sag when it was only
	 glowing yellow, not yet white so I don't believe it was really good
for 3000 F, although maybe
	 the perlite fluxed it.  It seems to be a mix of silica flour and
waterglass.  The stuff I had was
	 white, but John Wasser had some that was black and seemed to hold up
better than what I
	 had.  I had to ask where it was because it only had a couple feet of
shelf space in a really
	 big store and was not obvious at all.  I think they recommend it for
setting fire brick in stoves
	 and fireplaces and such.

	 Stephen C. Lovely


>  Josh
>  josh_h@...
>
>
>
>

Anyone in the Townsend Tennessee area need any supplies that I might can help
you with? I will be there 6/10 - 6/17. E-mail me before 9:00pm central time
tonight and I will see what I can do to help. Will only cost you what they
cost me.
Charles Logan
  <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/hfd220/index.html">A & B Castings, Inc.</A>
http://members.aol.com/hfd220/index.html

Howard, congrats on the move....

Thanks for the reply Stephen, I'll have to go see if they have something
like that here locally... of course I really don't need any since I already
have some refractory, but it's good to know where you can get stuff :)
Speaking of finding supplies, the first message of this post told where I
found some Western Bentonite, and I also wanted to say that I found fine
(120 mesh) silica sand at the same place I got the bentonite, so anyone
looking for a source of fine silica sand, check out a well drilling
supplier..... I was suprised to see how easy it was to find the stuff
locally.....

Josh
josh_h@...

Thanks Guy:

       It was fairly painless for everybody I think..... nobody complained at
any rate.    I've been a total wreck all week with this going on (several
lists) and some serious business problems resulting in a week of rather
extreme stress...... I hope to pick up the pieces over the next week or so.

                                                                         H.W.
-----Original Message-----
From: Guy Winton III <guyiii@...>
To: hobbicast@egroups.com <hobbicast@egroups.com>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 4:48 PM
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Welcome to the hobbicast group


>Howard, congrats on the move....
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Old school buds here:
>http://click.egroups.com/1/4057/2/_/_/_/960504520/
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
>

I just posted Steve's latest photos from this project today in the member
project pages.   Steve succeeded in his quest and has gotten a good result.
Check out the photos.......   Congratulations Seve.... Journeyman Metal
Caster...

This is the third installment in the saga of Steve's quest..... and I at
least find it a very interesting and informative series.......   Thanks
Steve

                                             H.W.

In addition to Steve Hoerner's recent success with the Cup, Saucer & Spoon,
I have put up a series of photos Steve sent of his ultra low budget furnace,
crucible, tongs & shank.  The furnace cost a total of $15 according to
Steve, and was used with a coffee can crucible and coat hanger wire tongs
and shank to pour the cup, saucer, and spoon......   Demonstrating beyond a
doubt that good  results can be achieved with ultra low tech stuff........
thanks Steve...

                                             H.W.

To anyone interested.......
There is a "Mini-Mite" muller up for bid on eBay.Item is #351623043
and current bid is $256.00,auction has 3days,18 hrs. left until
close.There is a picture of it,but not much of a description,Seller
can be e-mailed from auction page for more info.       Happy Bidding!
     Jeff

Bob:

I guess my green sand doesn't know any better.  I get acceptable results
without a muller. Just mix it with a shovel after shaking out a mold and
I am ready to go again.  I remove the hard crust next to the casting and
place it on the concrete garage floor and step on it to break it up.  I
run it through the screen I use to screen the sand when making a mold to
remove any lumps that have not been broken up.  Then mix it back in with
the other sand and temper.

Bob Rogers wrote:
>
> Jeff,
> To expand on what Charles said, mulling is absolutely necessary when mixing
> up new green sand from scratch, and it takes a lot of work.  The wetting
> agent (water or oil) dampens the clay (us. bentonite), then the clay must
> coat each grain of sand for the batch to have good strength or adhesion.
> Just stir them together and it will never work.  Rejuvenating sand that has
> gotten weak from use is easier, a little water or oil and good mixing works.
> I suggest finding premixed from whatever source, or maybe 'bank' or
> naturally bonded sand.
>

--
James Buchanan
Lexington, Kentucky (The Blue Grass State) USA
Two Truck Climax Locomotive Operator & Builder

What screen sizes are needed for green sand casting' that is, what is optional
screen size?  Thanks, geoff
     -----Original Message-----
     From: Buchanan, James (Jim) <jambuch@...>
     To: hobbicast@egroups.com <hobbicast@egroups.com>
     Date: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:59 PM
     Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Term Definitions


     Bob:

     I guess my green sand doesn't know any better.  I get acceptable results
     without a muller. Just mix it with a shovel after shaking out a mold and
     I am ready to go again.  I remove the hard crust next to the casting and
     place it on the concrete garage floor and step on it to break it up.  I
     run it through the screen I use to screen the sand when making a mold to
     remove any lumps that have not been broken up.  Then mix it back in with
     the other sand and temper.

     Bob Rogers wrote:
     >
     > Jeff,
     > To expand on what Charles said, mulling is absolutely necessary when
mixing
     > up new green sand from scratch, and it takes a lot of work.  The wetting
     > agent (water or oil) dampens the clay (us. bentonite), then the clay must
     > coat each grain of sand for the batch to have good strength or adhesion.
     > Just stir them together and it will never work.  Rejuvenating sand that
has
     > gotten weak from use is easier, a little water or oil and good mixing
works.
     > I suggest finding premixed from whatever source, or maybe 'bank' or
     > naturally bonded sand.
     >

     --
     James Buchanan
     Lexington, Kentucky (The Blue Grass State) USA
     Two Truck Climax Locomotive Operator & Builder

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Any size can work, but the finer the grain, the better your detail.  The
foundry I used to work at used AFS 90, but we did large castins and finish
wasn't important. For small, nonferrous, get it tight.  When I started
habbycasting, a local industrial supplier of sandblast sand had what they
called 'sugar' sand.  I figured it was about a 120 grit size, and it gave
very good detail.  I'm now using Jerry's Green Diamond for excellant
results, but it is'nt available everywhere - It wasn't expensive, but
shipping tripled the cost.  Sandblast sand cost me $6/ 100lb.  A key for
mixing your own sand is you want clean, sharp, and size segregated sand.
Let's not start talking about silica again.
----- Original Message -----
From: geoff <cyrano@...>
To: <hobbicast@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Term Definitions


> What screen sizes are needed for green sand casting' that is, what is
optional screen size?  Thanks, geoff
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Buchanan, James (Jim) <jambuch@...>
>     To: hobbicast@egroups.com <hobbicast@egroups.com>
>     Date: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:59 PM
>     Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Term Definitions
>
>
>     Bob:
>
>     I guess my green sand doesn't know any better.  I get acceptable
results
>     without a muller. Just mix it with a shovel after shaking out a mold
and
>     I am ready to go again.  I remove the hard crust next to the casting
and
>     place it on the concrete garage floor and step on it to break it up.
I
>     run it through the screen I use to screen the sand when making a mold
to
>     remove any lumps that have not been broken up.  Then mix it back in
with
>     the other sand and temper.
>
>     Bob Rogers wrote:
>     >
>     > Jeff,
>     > To expand on what Charles said, mulling is absolutely necessary when
mixing
>     > up new green sand from scratch, and it takes a lot of work.  The
wetting
>     > agent (water or oil) dampens the clay (us. bentonite), then the clay
must
>     > coat each grain of sand for the batch to have good strength or
adhesion.
>     > Just stir them together and it will never work.  Rejuvenating sand
that has
>     > gotten weak from use is easier, a little water or oil and good
mixing works.
>     > I suggest finding premixed from whatever source, or maybe 'bank' or
>     > naturally bonded sand.
>     >
>
>     --
>     James Buchanan
>     Lexington, Kentucky (The Blue Grass State) USA
>     Two Truck Climax Locomotive Operator & Builder
>
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