I tried to melt copper tubing I had laying around the house today.
Everything got to glowing a nice bright orange but no melt. How hot
does this copper alloy have to be to melt? Anyone tried it lately?

Andre

PS: If this 'michelle4U' crap and yahoo spam continues on, I have a
gig or so of freed-up server space that I don't mind donating to the
group for a discussion list. Just a little payback offer for all the
help you folks have given me in my new home foundry.

Clint
   Sounds like a group thinggy alright! I was thinking the same when I
saw it. It's bad enough they spam my email, but this is too much.

Nice Guy

--- In hobbicast@y..., "driggars" <driggars@n...> wrote:
> Where in the hell did this come from, Am I in the right group?
> Clint
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Michelle4U@C...>
> To: <Michelle4U@c...>
> Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 9:37 PM
> Subject: [hobbicast] I Need To Share This!
>
>
> > I Need To Share This!
> >
> > Hey!
> >
> > My name is Karen and I am a blonde SWF that has been on the
Internet
> dating scene for about a yeat without a lot of luck :-(  I am
bisexual and
> have been looking for an female or couple for a discrete
relationship.  I
> would also consider a NICE and SINCERE man.  I have attached my
photo for
> you to look at if you like.
> >
> > If you like what you see, come and check out my profile for more
> information about me and more photos (sorry, all G rated) at
> http://www.YourDatingCenter.com  It is a great site, completelt
free, and I
> have started to have some success.  I will be chatting there on
Monday,
> Wednesday, and Friday nights this week (while I work at my boring
job) so
> stop by if you have time!
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Michelle
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
> >
> > Spring Break pics and more on CollegeClub.com!
> > Catch all the photos, fun and festivities.
> > <http://navisite.collegeclub.com/springbreak/>
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
> >
> > Files area and list services are at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > hobbicast-unsubscribe@e...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >

-
>Hi Cameron

The tilting furnace look good. Do you plan on publishing more photo's
on your website as you progress?

Bill

Earthlink screwed up our forwarding and all our incoming emails from
early Saturday to Sunday night got bounced. The test was to check if
yahoo was working and I did get my own message. Thanks Clint, I got
yours too!
Ray in FLA (still without FTP)

driggars wrote:
>
> Test came thru
> CD

Clint,
I protest occasionally about this spam, but unless the list owner bans
the sender there isn't much to be done. Just delete it and move on.
-Ray

driggars wrote:
>
> Where in the hell did this come from, Am I in the right group?
> Clint

Certainly will.

     Cameron


----- Original Message -----
From: boyerw1 <boyerw@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 9:17 PM
Subject: [hobbicast] Cameron


> -
> >Hi Cameron
>
> The tilting furnace look good. Do you plan on publishing more photo's
> on your website as you progress?
>
> Bill
>
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

I have spent the weekend doing my investment cast bronze props.  With a
rather good percentage of success! One thing i will like to pass on, is i
have changed my first coating of investment slightly. Insetad of 50/50
plaster and silica flour, i found that 1/3 plaster and 2/3 silica flour is
much better. I can clearly see the machining marks from where i turned some
wax down in the lathe. cant feel them, but can see em.  I also added a very
small amount of 5% silicon aluminium wire to the melt just before  skimming
and pouring. It is meant to make the metal more fluid. Im sure it did help a
little, definatly no harm anyway.

This next part may shock some, intrigue others, i find it very funny myself.
I always read, heard and was told investment needed something like 5 hours
burnout !.   Ok, so im not using commercial stuff, just my own sand and
plaster mix. The wax is encased with investment in a container about  4
inches high, 3 inches across.  soon as i can tear the wrapping off i pop
them into the burnout oven, with a tray of water underneath.  after 15 mins
remove tray with wax floating on top, temp to do this? about 400C.  once
thats out of the way i turn up the gas to about 600C for an hour at the
most. Them i spike the temp to 700C, soon as it there, shut it off and melt
the bronze. When its nearly liquid, i remove the investments, temp at this
stage is around 500C, (still glowing if done at night)  and pour. Havent had
a failure with a mould yet.

Laugh if u will!!  it works for me!
Ken

G'day folks.

This is the first time i have posted to the list, however i have been
reading the Post's and Archives for some time.

I have been Sand Casting for the past 10 years at home and in the
last 4 years Investment Casting Brass, Bronze Aluminium and Precious
metals as a full time Profession. I wish to build an Induction
Melting furnace to melt up to 5 kg of bronze / brass, My Question is
has anyone one the list built one of these units or does anyone know
where to find the information on constructing the High Frequency unit
and what Frequency should the unit run at, in a nutshell any
Information would be a big help.

Thanks in advance

Michael W Kohlleppel
Art Tech Castings Australia.

Michael,

I realized this is not exactly an induction furnace, but we have had
discussion about melting AL in a home microwave. Interested?

Rick Sparber
rgsparber@...

Wow, what a thrill! The first part is cast!
As usual, I prepared a pictorial for you guys: http://www.whizzerick.com
Page 3 of the foundry pages.
Check it out!
whizzerick

P.s: I will have a round of troubleshooting questions later on.

Hi All,

  A bit off topic but I need a favour... an aquaintance has successfully sued
a spammer! When I say successfully, I mean he's been awarded damages in a (
I think ) Washington court but his spammer is in Florida. Anyroads he needs
a lawyer & detective (? someone to find the spammers assets) in Florida. He
has found a lawyer but the guy wants $175/hour which seems a bit extreme to
me. If you're in Florida & can recommend a lawyer or asset finding person
please mail me direct at
intellicorp001@...

Thanks,

   Wilson.

Excellent! - Ray in FLA

w h i z z e r i c k wrote:
>
> Wow, what a thrill! The first part is cast!
> As usual, I prepared a pictorial for you guys: http://www.whizzerick.com
> Page 3 of the foundry pages.
> Check it out!
> whizzerick

That copper will have to get hot, I would say 2000-2100, Some one else may
add more to this cause I am no expert. I have been dealing with melting
brass and copper lately. I had the same problem. Make sure you are not
running a BBQ Regulator. Run a straight line with a valve in line to
control. Make sure the control valve is far enough away from the burner that
any flames do not come over the top and burn your face/hair. This will take
some getting used to till you get a good feel. Are you using a blower? After
your furnace gets going good you may need to keep adjusting the flame up, I
get used to the sound on mine. It has a consistent roar, if you turn up a
little to high it will sound like sputter, if you turn down to low the flame
will be loose instead of a rocket type flame. My flame comes out the top
about 8"-12". Never light it with the lid on. Never stand over the furnace,
or with the wind while firing. You may know this already, but I have to say
it anyway, just in case. Hope this helps
Clint
----- Original Message -----
From: "andreb0506" <andreb@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 2:21 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Copper - I tried but failed


> I tried to melt copper tubing I had laying around the house today.
> Everything got to glowing a nice bright orange but no melt. How hot
> does this copper alloy have to be to melt? Anyone tried it lately?
>
> Andre
>
> PS: If this 'michelle4U' crap and yahoo spam continues on, I have a
> gig or so of freed-up server space that I don't mind donating to the
> group for a discussion list. Just a little payback offer for all the
> help you folks have given me in my new home foundry.
>
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

In a message dated 4/1/2002 12:21:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
andreb@... writes:


> I tried to melt copper tubing I had laying around the house today.
>

Copper tube is almost pure copper.  Melts a lot higher than brass or bronze.
No experience,  just some knowledge of the specs for copper tubing.
John Meacham
California High Desert
12 inch Atlas, Minimill, rusty file


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't know if I used the correct term to describe what I am asking,
but just how would one make a mold for an item such as say an object
shaped like a letter L laying on its side. I have a few items that
were cast, that I would like to duplicate, and have racked my brains
to figure out how they were initially done. I did succeed in making
one item though.  It came out ok, and is useable but there is a
screwup here and there that can be worked around. What I did was lay
the item with the lower leg pointing down in the drag, and after
ramming the drag, and turning it over, I had to dig down to this
buried portion of the pattern, and sort of clear around the thing to
get to a satisfactory parting line. So my mold was basically recessed
down in the drag. I beveled the recessed area of the sand in the
drag, slicked it off, and applied parting dust, then installed and
ramed the cope. The sand parted at the recess fairly well and the
part did pour ok. The pattern I am using has to be positioned on its
back due to the recesses and edges  it contains. So just how would
one go about molding up a pattern that does not have a straight
parting line that drops perhaps 1 1/2" on one end. Did I do it right
or is there another way?

I have a part to cast that has to have a steel rod (1/2" diam rod)
permanently embeded in it. Its a tool rest for a wood lathe, and the
steel rod is what is used to adjust the height etc, while the rest of
the item is aluminum. The rod needs to be steel as it is secured and
adjusted in use with a thumbscrew and is subject to scarring if made
from aluminum. Can a steel rod simply be substituted for a core?
The steel rod needs to stay in place permanently after casting and
there really is not much area to drill and install it after the part
is cast.
If it is possible is there any certain preparation that needs to be
done to the rod itself, like grooving it so it retains in the
aluminum better, treat it with a chemical process or what? I would
imagine it would have to be preheated so the aluminum does not chill
when it contacts it. Just how would this proceedure be done? Any
ideas appreciated.

Sounds like you did it right. The pattern is laid on the pattern board
and rammed up. The drag is rolled over and you carve the sand carefully
down to the parting line. This is called copeing out. Then mark your
sprue runners etc., dust and ram up the cope. Seperate and draw the
pattern and finish the mold.
   If you have a lot to make, you can make a false cope from plaster. Ram
and cope out your drag. Cover the pattern and sand with food wrap and
pour in  some plaster, reinforce with wire if you wish. Now when you
initially ram your drag, ram the pattern and false cope together. When
you roll the drag over, just draw the false cope and your parting line
will already be done.
Regards, Ray

chipmaker36043 wrote:
>
> I don't know if I used the correct term to describe what I am asking,
> but just how would one make a mold for an item such as say an object

Pre-heating the insert will be a tricky pain in the butt. Just pour hot
and fast. A diamond knurl on the area inside the aluminum should work
great. The Aluminum will shrink down onto the rod.
Regards, Ray

chipmaker36043 wrote:
>
> I have a part to cast that has to have a steel rod (1/2" diam rod)
> permanently embeded in it. Its a tool rest for a wood lathe, and the

The subject of induction furnaces came up a while back and I did some
web browsing on the subject and talked to a friend of mine who is
designing an 8KW switch mode battery charger for electric cars, which
uses similar technology to an induction furnace. We came to the
conclusion that It would cost a minimum of $500 for parts and an
electrical engineering degree to build one.
The frequency depends on the amount of material and what you are
trying to melt. In fact the frequency may need to be adjusted as you
add material or at least for each melt. The coil must be kept in
resonance to transfer power to the melt and the material in the coil
affects the resonance frequency.
I am guessing here but for a few Kg of metal the frequency is going to
be in the tens of KHz.
All in all it might be better to try and find a used power unit rather
than to design and build one.

Jim Hannon

--- In hobbicast@y..., "michael_arttech" <Investmentcast@a...> wrote:
> G'day folks.
  My Question is
> has anyone one the list built one of these units or does anyone know
> where to find the information on constructing the High Frequency
unit
> and what Frequency should the unit run at, in a nutshell any
> Information would be a big help.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Michael W Kohlleppel
> Art Tech Castings Australia.

David Gingery uses this same concept for making an axle in
the compound slide of his lathe.  I've used steel cores and
not deposited enough carbon on them to knock them out, for
what that's worth.

-hal


---------------------------------------------------------
Hal Schechner
hal-j@...
http://www.palmstation.com
_The_ place for up to date Palm/Pilot info
---------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 1 Apr 2002, chipmaker36043 wrote:

> I have a part to cast that has to have a steel rod (1/2" diam rod)
> permanently embeded in it. Its a tool rest for a wood lathe, and the
> steel rod is what is used to adjust the height etc, while the rest of
> the item is aluminum. The rod needs to be steel as it is secured and
> adjusted in use with a thumbscrew and is subject to scarring if made
> from aluminum. Can a steel rod simply be substituted for a core?
> The steel rod needs to stay in place permanently after casting and
> there really is not much area to drill and install it after the part
> is cast.
> If it is possible is there any certain preparation that needs to be
> done to the rod itself, like grooving it so it retains in the
> aluminum better, treat it with a chemical process or what? I would
> imagine it would have to be preheated so the aluminum does not chill
> when it contacts it. Just how would this proceedure be done? Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
>
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

///Rick, Ya done good!  wdsmith


> Excellent! - Ray in FLA
>
> w h i z z e r i c k wrote:
> >
> > Wow, what a thrill! The first part is cast!
> > As usual, I prepared a pictorial for you guys: http://www.whizzerick.com
> > Page 3 of the foundry pages.
> > Check it out!
> > whizzerick

Chipmaker!

If you're serious about getting a good bond on the steel rod you'll need to
pour the casting while the rod is hot. It doesn't have to be red hot but it
should be too hot to handle. Use thick all cotton gloves of pliers to place
it in the mold.

One other thing - it must be free from ANY organic compounds, especially
human oil! If you touch it with your bare skin, even though you get it quite
hot afterward, you could get a blow where you touched it! Get it very clean
and keep it clean until you're ready to set it in the mold and you'll get a
good bond the first time.

Jim Clary


----- Original Message -----
From: "chipmaker36043" <chipmkr@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 7:09 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Casting part with a steel rod permanently embeded


> I have a part to cast that has to have a steel rod (1/2" diam rod)
> permanently embeded in it. Its a tool rest for a wood lathe, and the
> steel rod is what is used to adjust the height etc, while the rest of
> the item is aluminum. The rod needs to be steel as it is secured and
> adjusted in use with a thumbscrew and is subject to scarring if made
> from aluminum. Can a steel rod simply be substituted for a core?
> The steel rod needs to stay in place permanently after casting and
> there really is not much area to drill and install it after the part
> is cast.
> If it is possible is there any certain preparation that needs to be
> done to the rod itself, like grooving it so it retains in the
> aluminum better, treat it with a chemical process or what? I would
> imagine it would have to be preheated so the aluminum does not chill
> when it contacts it. Just how would this proceedure be done? Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
>
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

I recently did 8 casting that contained a steel rod. It certainly acts as a
chiller but if the melt is at the high end of the temperature range, it
worked well enough 8 out of 10 times. I did grind a few flats into the rod
and it holds very well. It may be possible to preheat the bar with a torch,
lower the cope, and pour. The trick is to not let the force of the hot gasses
out of the torch break off any sand and blow it around.

Rick Sparber
rgsparber@...

My name is Christopher Richardson, I am from Deer Island NB Canada,
(southern NB). Is there anyone here any where close to my area. I
would be interested to correspond with anyone close by. It might be
mutually helpful, ie supply locations etc, etc.. My wife is from
Calais ME so we're there quite often. It might be fun and interesting!

I have updated my furnace page with some burner information. See it at:
http://www.ray-vin.com/casting/
Regards, Ray in FLA

Howdy Clint,

Thanks for your hobbicast response regarding my unsucessful copper
melt. I'm using a 15 pound regulator off of a 40# propane tank. I
think my burner is too small. I'm using a 3/4 inch black pipe
naturally aspirated set up I found plans for on the web. It works
great for Al alloys but I guess I'm going to have to put something
larger together to get the super heat.

Do you guys think that a blower set-up is the better way to go? Will
it substantially increase my heat?

I think so, I am running a 3/4"  burner with a hair dryer. I have been
melting brass and some copper
Clint

----- Original Message -----
From: "andreb0506" <andreb@...>
To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 8:33 PM
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Copper - I tried but failed


> Howdy Clint,
>
> Thanks for your hobbicast response regarding my unsucessful copper
> melt. I'm using a 15 pound regulator off of a 40# propane tank. I
> think my burner is too small. I'm using a 3/4 inch black pipe
> naturally aspirated set up I found plans for on the web. It works
> great for Al alloys but I guess I'm going to have to put something
> larger together to get the super heat.
>
> Do you guys think that a blower set-up is the better way to go? Will
> it substantially increase my heat?
>
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> hobbicast-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Ray,

You did a very nice job with your furnace.

The section on "What I would do different the next time:"

Why not weld some angle iron legs to the bottom of the furnace, sort
of like outriggers.

Here is some ascii art work:

-----
   O
-----

The to take care of the preheating ingots, why not weld a small
platform across the exhaust port, or make it removable. I would weld
angle iron for legs and a removable grate placed on top of legs.


--- In hobbicast@y..., Ray Brandes <rvb@r...> wrote:
> I have updated my furnace page with some burner information. See it at:
> http://www.ray-vin.com/casting/
> Regards, Ray in FLA

For the service this starter will see, I'm not worried AT ALL about
heating the motor.  The current draw will be miniscule after the thing
spins up, and the starting current should only be experienced
momentarily.  I'm estimating a mechanical time constant of less than
1/10 second.  I'm hoping for better, though.

I just picked up a used GM starter on Ebay, and I already have the
battery.  A little fabrication and a friend's flask and we'll see what
happens!

Thanks for the thoughts.  (Both Bill and Geoff.)

Donald.

> From: "Geoff" <cyrano@...>
> Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 11:17:41 -0500
>
> Hi, i once was an automobile electrician and we frequently used 6 volt
> armatures and fields in 12 volt ststems with no problems.  Starters were
> rarely used for more than ten seconds so that is much more time than needed.
> i think  [i have never won any prizes for thinking]  a 12 volt starter
> running on twelve volts will do the  job.  Many Delco [GM] products had
> starters whose internal windings were similar to 6 volt windings and will
> supply extra push.  You can mail me off list if you have further questions
> cyrano@...  Just geoff <><
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: W. McGown <bmcgown@...>
> Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:46 PM
>
>
> > Suggestion:  Use a 12vdc starter and hit it with 18-24vdc.  For the
> > short spin cycle the extra voltage will not 'let the smoke out' and it
> > will accelerate MUCH faster.  As a matter of fact the revs might be a
> > bit higher that you would like.. Careful!
> >
> > Best of regards
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Donald H Locker <dhl@...>
> > Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 8:28 AM
> >
> >
> > > I'm going to try to build a spin caster using an automotive starter
> > > motor instead of a spring.  I'll let the group know how it works, if
> > > it works.
> > >
> > > Donald.
> > >
> > > > From: hhelmen@...
> > > > Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:22:27 EST
> > > >
> > > > Ken:
> > > >      Are you centrifugal casting the investment or just pouring?  I
> > am
> > > > interested in doing some investment casting and I bought a used
> > spring type
> > > > centrifugal machine.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >              Hank

Cross posted from the Gingery machines group.

This message is for Paul Probus, Brian J. Bland, mike Turcotte, and
anyone else interested in the Workbench article on building a
sandblast cabinet.

The cost of the CD will be $5.00, but this will include shipping to
anywhere in the US.

There will a LOT of stuff on the CD besides the workbench article,
such as:

A 9 page article on building a 20 ton hydraulic press

A complete army training manual titled Fundamentals of Machine Tools

Five original photos of a rural mailbox called a BatBuster

CAD drawings of a hossfield type bender. I think one drawing is
messed up, but there are 35 .dxf files!

An article on building a Cinva Ram. This is a press for making bricks
from mostly dirt and a little cement.

15 original photos I took of the USS Cole in the repair drydock at
Ingalls shipbuilding in Pascagoula, MS (The Cole is now back in the
water)

11 original photos I took of a semi truck that burned to the ground,
literally! It is a good example of the heat produced by diesel fuel
and air, the aluminum parts melted and puddled on the ground!

An article on building a tracking solar collector that produces
STEAM! A sidebar to this is plans for a small sheet metal bending
brake.

The Magnolia Metal Bearing Book, among other topics is how to pour
Babbitt bearings and Babbitt hammers

Plans for a receiver hitch adapter to help you carry long items in a
pick-up bed

An August 1953 article from The Model Engineer on building a
horizontal surface grinding and milling machine

A July 1954 Popular Mechanics article "Milling arm for Drill Press"

An article on building a truck mounted hoist (cherry picker)

An old article on making a shop made air/diesel fuel torch that can
melt cast iron. It starts out "For safety, economy, ease of
construction, and intense heat the air-diesel torch has much to
recommend it. The one illustrated uses about 1 gal. Of diesel or
stove oil an hour, and the air supply may be almost anything that
will supply a pressure of from 40 to 300 lb per square inch through a
1/16" hole. The torch carries no fuel under pressure, has no
insurance restrictions, cannot explode, starts without generating,
and if the heat is confined, will melt cast iron."

An article from the internet called "Making Insulating Castable
Refractory from Common Material"

Plus, a few other odds and ends just for grins.

I hope this wets your appetite! I tried to give you your $5.00 worth.
By the way, The CD will be almost full, but it will be left open so
if you have a CDRW drive you may add to it.

If you would like a copy of this CD, send your $5 cash, check,
whatever to:

Ron Thompson
2204 South 17th St.
Ocean Springs, MS 39564

P.S.
I also have another CD. It is also $5
There are four directories that each contain one book.

Aom contains "A Catechism of the Steam Engine" by John Bourne, C.E.

Aon contains "Modern Machine Shop Practice" by Joshua Rose, M.E.

Aor contains "The Advanced Machinist" by William Rogers

Asb contains "Modern Machine Shop Practice, Volume II" by Joshua
Rose, M.E.

Thanks to the MSU library for making these works available @
http://digital.lib.msu.edu/onlinecolls/
If you have plenty of time or a fast connection to the internet you
can D/L from the link above. The 4 books fill a CD.