Yes, the HW/SB10x was/is noted for high quality audio.

The coax problem sounds more like poor contact in the phono connector
that plugs into the LMO.  Oxidation builds up in the outer ground
flanges; the slightest movement of the attached cable can then
restore or decrease the contact, the intermittent load changes can
pull the LMO frequency.  Temperature changes can randomly do the
same.  Simply unplugging, squeezing the flanges slightly, and
reconnecting the connector also scrapes off the oxidation and
restores a low resistance connection.  Better though if the
connectors are cleaned with a solvent, both inside connector pin and
ground flanges.

--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "crosskansas" <mkt_55c@...> wrote:
>
> > BTW, why does the RG174 need replacing? Damaged?
> >
> > Glen
> > ex VE3EUK, VE4GC, VE3PFI, VE3RZ (no longer active)
>
>
> Hi Glen,
> I found a 100% shielded coax to replace it with, as the LMO would
> occasionally go nuts and then when I moved the coax, it would
> straighten up and fly right for quite a while. I had repaired it
> before and worked well for a time, then the same thing happened. So
I
> decided that maybe it was defective internally, and decided to
> replace it, but didn't have any 174 on hand.  It is working fine
now
> with the new coax, and indeed there was a problem with the original
> coax.  So any way, many thanks to all who responded. You all are
the
> greatest.  By the way, I get more compliments on audio and signal
> reports than any of the two Yaesu and one Kenwood radios I have.
It
> normally never drifted until this problem with the coax.  I have
had
> it running all day and is still right where I left it, no more
> drifting.  I am proud to have it, and dang it, it just looks too
cool!
> Bill, N0RRY
>

I have the Phone Patch HD-15 model and have questions. I have never
had one or used one. So my question is, is it better to hook it up on
HF or VHF and use with local repeaters? Thank you. Rod

> BTW, why does the RG174 need replacing? Damaged?
>
> Glen
> ex VE3EUK, VE4GC, VE3PFI, VE3RZ (no longer active)


Hi Glen,
I found a 100% shielded coax to replace it with, as the LMO would
occasionally go nuts and then when I moved the coax, it would
straighten up and fly right for quite a while. I had repaired it
before and worked well for a time, then the same thing happened. So I
decided that maybe it was defective internally, and decided to
replace it, but didn't have any 174 on hand.  It is working fine now
with the new coax, and indeed there was a problem with the original
coax.  So any way, many thanks to all who responded. You all are the
greatest.  By the way, I get more compliments on audio and signal
reports than any of the two Yaesu and one Kenwood radios I have.  It
normally never drifted until this problem with the coax.  I have had
it running all day and is still right where I left it, no more
drifting.  I am proud to have it, and dang it, it just looks too cool!
Bill, N0RRY

Thanks for the reference to thefreedictionary....
I didn't know it existed before...
Thanks...
Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ray West" <donwest@...>
To: <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: [heathkit-yahoo] Help!!


> The "ixed" sound on the end is the way I've heard it, but apparently, it
> can be either. See
> http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bollix
>
>
> G8IFF/KC8NHF wrote:
>>
>> Bollixed?
>> They're bollocks, not bollix.
>>
>> David R. Hassall wrote:
>> > some one has Bollixed up the wiring inside.
>>
>>
>
>

The "ixed" sound on the end is the way I've heard it, but apparently, it
can be either. See
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bollix


G8IFF/KC8NHF wrote:
>
> Bollixed?
> They're bollocks, not bollix.
>
> David R. Hassall wrote:
> > some one has Bollixed up the wiring inside.
>
>

Bollixed?
They're bollocks, not bollix.

David R. Hassall wrote:
> some one has Bollixed up the wiring inside.

Good point, Larry. The LMO coax goes to the unshielded front panel
freq control switch with subsequent unshielded wiring and can radiate
from there, but is located far from the RF input signal path.
Conceivably if the RG58 coax shielding is sparse and the coax routed
too close to the RF input areas some LMO signal could leak out into
the RF input path.

The 'birdie' at 21.2 MHz is caused by the 4th harmonic of the LMO.
at 5.3 MHz + 3.395 MHz carrier osc - 29.895 MHz heterodyne osc = -
21.2 MHz received frequency (ignore the minus sign, calculation is
backwards).  Unfortunately 4 x LMO 5.3MHz also equals 21.2 MHz, so
the receiver hears the LMO 4th harmonic as a false signal that tunes
through twice as fast as a real signal.

If the birdie worsens with the RG58 try routing it different to
minimize the birdie.

BTW, why does the RG174 need replacing? Damaged?

Glen
ex VE3EUK, VE4GC, VE3PFI, VE3RZ (no longer active)


--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "larry allen" <larya@...> wrote:
>
> If you have any 174, I would use it... as this gentleman mentioned
you
> should consider the physics of the bending rather than worry about
the
> electrical characteristics.... What heathkit is concerned about is
the
> radiating of the lmo signal more than the electrical characterists
of the
> cable...
> Larry ve3fxq
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Chenier" <glen@...>
> To: <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:14 AM
> Subject: [heathkit-yahoo] Re: sb101 lmo coax
>
>
>
> Should work, but you might want to use a longer length to allow a
wider
> bend radius.
>
>
> --- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "crosskansas" <mkt_55c@> wrote:
> >
> > Can I use rg-58 coax in place of the rg-174 that connects to the
back
> > of the LMO. The specs on the RG-174 are 50 ohm, 66% velocity, 90 %
> > shield, 26 guage conductor, polyethelene dielectric.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill, N0RRY
> >
>

Not sure if this will help but try this website.

http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=8205

It gives wire color codes and what they are for in a couple
of Turner microphones.

Normally, the audio cable is a shielded cable while the others
are for the PTT switch and ground.

What radio are you connecting the microphone to? The impedance of
the Turner +2 is 5,000 ohms and if it is connected to a radio with
a high impedance microphone input such as 50,000 ohms, the transmit
audio is more than likely going to sound muffled or distorted.



73's
Mike
W5RKL


--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "David R. Hassall" <dhassall@...> wrote:
>
> Dear Gang,
> This is a bit off topic but I am in need of a Turner SSB +2 transistors
> Microphone schematic.  A good friend brought one over that he wants
to use
> on his radio and
> some one has Bollixed up the wiring inside.  I am trying to figure
it out
> and it should be simple .... but it isn't... So I am hoping against
all hope
>
> that I can at least find out how it was originally and maybe I can
get this
> back together..
> 73 Dave
>
> David R. Hassall WA5DJJ
> Email: dhassall@...
> Website: http://www.zianet.com/dhassall/
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I wouldn't concern myself with the RG-58 velocity factor or any of
that stuff. The length you will be using is too short for any
of that to have an affect on the LMO signal.

73's
Mike
W5RKL

--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "larry allen" <larya@...> wrote:
>
> If you have any 174, I would use it... as this gentleman mentioned you
> should consider the physics of the bending rather than worry about the
> electrical characteristics.... What heathkit is concerned about is the
> radiating of the lmo signal more than the electrical characterists
of the
> cable...
> Larry ve3fxq
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Chenier" <glen@...>
> To: <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:14 AM
> Subject: [heathkit-yahoo] Re: sb101 lmo coax
>
>
>
> Should work, but you might want to use a longer length to allow a wider
> bend radius.
>
>
> --- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "crosskansas" <mkt_55c@> wrote:
> >
> > Can I use rg-58 coax in place of the rg-174 that connects to the back
> > of the LMO. The specs on the RG-174 are 50 ohm, 66% velocity, 90 %
> > shield, 26 guage conductor, polyethelene dielectric.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill, N0RRY
> >
>

If you have any 174, I would use it... as this gentleman mentioned you
should consider the physics of the bending rather than worry about the
electrical characteristics.... What heathkit is concerned about is the
radiating of the lmo signal more than the electrical characterists of the
cable...
Larry ve3fxq

----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Chenier" <glen@...>
To: <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:14 AM
Subject: [heathkit-yahoo] Re: sb101 lmo coax



Should work, but you might want to use a longer length to allow a wider
bend radius.


--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "crosskansas" <mkt_55c@...> wrote:
>
> Can I use rg-58 coax in place of the rg-174 that connects to the back
> of the LMO. The specs on the RG-174 are 50 ohm, 66% velocity, 90 %
> shield, 26 guage conductor, polyethelene dielectric.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill, N0RRY
>

Dear Gang,
This is a bit off topic but I am in need of a Turner SSB +2 transistors
Microphone schematic.  A good friend brought one over that he wants to use
on his radio and
some one has Bollixed up the wiring inside.  I am trying to figure it out
and it should be simple .... but it isn't... So I am hoping against all hope

that I can at least find out how it was originally and maybe I can get this
back together..
73 Dave

David R. Hassall WA5DJJ
Email: dhassall@...
Website: http://www.zianet.com/dhassall/




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Should work, but you might want to use a longer length to allow a wider
bend radius.


--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "crosskansas" <mkt_55c@...> wrote:
>
> Can I use rg-58 coax in place of the rg-174 that connects to the back
> of the LMO. The specs on the RG-174 are 50 ohm, 66% velocity, 90 %
> shield, 26 guage conductor, polyethelene dielectric.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill, N0RRY
>

Can I use rg-58 coax in place of the rg-174 that connects to the back
of the LMO. The specs on the RG-174 are 50 ohm, 66% velocity, 90 %
shield, 26 guage conductor, polyethelene dielectric.

Thanks,
Bill, N0RRY

I have several Heathkit power supplies (HP-23 varieties) here needing top
and/or bottom covers.  If you have any that need a new home please let me
know.

73, gary

Gary H. Harmon, Jr. / K5JWK
6003 Archwood
San Antonio, TX 78239-1504
210.657.1549 h / 210.884.6926 c

"Retirement - Everyday (except Sunday) is a Saturday"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks to all that replied...  I finally got around today at looking
at this again, and was finally able to isolate the problem.  It
turned out to be a cracked land pattern on the circuit board between
a .1mfd cap, and pin 6 of the 7199 tube for the right channel.

Once I wired around the bad land pattern, all seems good, and the
amp is now hum free.

Thanks again...

--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "smokinjoe98ta" <jfowler2@...> wrote:
>
> I have a AA-100 that my father built back in the early 60's, I
picked
> out of his shop after he passed away that I'm trying to get going.
>
> I have recap'd it, and all new tubes.  It sounds pretty good,
however
> the right channel has a 60 cycle hum, regardless of the setting of
> the volume control.  In other words the control has no affect on
it.
> I only notice it when the amp is on, and no signal.  The left
channel
> seems pretty clean.
>
> I measured with a scope, and it appears to be about .2 of a volt of
> 60 cycle AC across the speaker 8 ohm to common.  Left channel is
> virtually flat.  Measure from chassis ground to the common, I see
the
> same wave pattern.  Again, the left channel looks good.
>
> Removing the 7591's from the right channel, and of course things
look
> clean.  If you have the schematic, the transformer side of C39
looks
> bad.  The other side feeding back to the 7199 looks good.
>
> The hum is not that loud, and really only noticeable with no signal.
>
> Any thoughts/ideas on where I should look next?   I'm really novice
> when it comes to tubes.  For that matter, I have been out of the
> electronics for about 20 years now, so a lot of catching up to do
> there period.
>
> Any ideas will certainly be appreciated.
>

I need a cover for a Heathkit EK-2 AM Radio Receiver. If anyone has one
that they would be willing to sell to me, please let me know.

Patrick

Thanks for your offer. I have forwarded the info to my friend (Greg Lewis)
who has the need. The ball is in his court.

73,


Gary H. Harmon, Jr. / K5JWK
6003 Archwood
San Antonio, TX 78239-1504
210.657.1549 h / 210.884.6926 c

"Retirement - Everyday (except Sunday) is a Saturday"



   _____

From: heathkit@yahoogroups.com [mailto:heathkit@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of John
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 4:33 PM
To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [heathkit-yahoo] Need HW-100 Front Panel



Hello Gary.
I have a HW 100 with a good looking front panel.
ve7day@crcable. <mailto:ve7day%40crcable.net> net
73.
John.

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary H. Harmon, Jr
To: Heathkit4 LIST
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 6:17 AM
Subject: [heathkit-yahoo] Need HW-100 Front Panel

Looking for a nice HW-100 front panel if you have one to sell or trade.

73, gary

Gary H. Harmon, Jr. / K5JWK
6003 Archwood
San Antonio, TX 78239-1504
210.657.1549 h / 210.884.6926 c

"Retirement - Everyday (except Sunday) is a Saturday"

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.9/1157 - Release Date: 11/28/2007
12:29 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My Apache was "re-capped" by the previous owner and I got audio
reports last night that said the audio didn't sound like typical
"scratchy Apache" audio.

Next time I haul the 100 pounds of iron out of the case, I'll take a
closer look at what mods were made.

Thanks.

Dick
WA2ROC

Dick, I'm sure that will work. I wonder if your Apache's speech
amplifier and modulator is stock? If it is, there are a couple
of mods that will greatly improve the Apache's audio. One is
replacing the 2 interstage coupling capacitors in the speech
amplifier. The other is a complete rewire of the speech amplifier
and a few changes to the driver plus placing a .01ufd 6KV disc
cap across the modulation transformer's secondary.

I also recommend replacing the final B+ .01ufd 2KV mica bypass
capacitor. This cap can become quite leaky. Radio Shack sells
a nice replacement .01ufd 6KV disc cap The original bypass capacitor
is located on the left inside wall of the final cage. You'll see it
when you remove the final cage top cover.

The original low and high voltage filter caps, 2 tall black
125ufd 450VDC caps and the triple 20ufd 350VDC canned capacitor,
should also be replaced. Neither are available. I used a 47ufd 450VDC
and a 22ufd 450VDC axial lead caps, that's all I had, as
replacements.

For the high voltage you can use small snap in caps, 125ufd 450VDC,
mounted on 2 old bakelite capacitor mounts and wire them in series.
To do this you'll have to glue the caps in place on the bakelite
mounts. There are some round metal mounts that hold the caps in place
that use the original caps mounting holes. Either way you chose,
always use the same or higher working voltage, never lower.

Just a few tips.

73's
Mike
W5RKL


--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "Dick Pettit" <pettit@...> wrote:
>
>  Thanks Mike.
>
> Guess what I just did?  I walked over to Home Depot (before I read
> your reply, BTW) and found a piece of aluminum leaf guard that's 6" by
> 36" for $1.50.  It is "glorified checken wire" with holes about 1/4"
> square. If it is too narrow, I can always piece it.
>
> I do have a fan that runs when the AC power is supplied.  It will
> probably be mounted to the screen rather than to the box sides.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Dick
> WA2ROC
>

Thanks Mike.

Guess what I just did?  I walked over to Home Depot (before I read
your reply, BTW) and found a piece of aluminum leaf guard that's 6" by
36" for $1.50.  It is "glorified checken wire" with holes about 1/4"
square. If it is too narrow, I can always piece it.

I do have a fan that runs when the AC power is supplied.  It will
probably be mounted to the screen rather than to the box sides.

Thanks again.

Dick
WA2ROC

If originality is not an issue, you can make one out of perforated
aluminum. You can find perforated aluminum at Home Depot or Lowes
hardware stores. You don't need to buy a complete sheet, just
enough to make the top.

If your Apache did not come with the cooling fan, I highly
recommend installing one. The final cage gets rather hot
when operating. It doesn't take long to overheat the finals
without a cooling fan. Some Apache users connect the fans
so they suck air out of the final. I found that blowing air
into the final works best. Yes, you will have to clean the
final cage more often but that's a small price to pay for overheated
finals. With air blowing into the final cage after 6 months,
I found very little, if any, dust accumulation inside the final cage.

73's
Mike
W5RKL

--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "Dick Pettit" <pettit@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have the expanded metal cover from an Apache?
>
> Or maybe a source for a suitable replacement?
>
> Expanded metal is really expensive.
>
> Dick
> WA2ROC
>

Does anyone have the expanded metal cover from an Apache?

Or maybe a source for a suitable replacement?

Expanded metal is really expensive.

Dick
WA2ROC

hello

1st time on the net. the GDA-1158-6 manual. perfect copy Technology Systems
scanned it from brand new manual as always with OUR scans NO marks, crystal
clear prints like new manual. thank you D. DILLENBECK he donated about 35 brand
new manuals,
free DOWNLOAD as always for new work.
keep your eye on our site this last donated load of materail was a large one
including full catalogs,
a blueprint etc from heath and other companies.
www.tech-systems-labs.com
merry christmas

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Heath HM-102 HF wattmeter and wattmeter parts for sale:

Heath HM-102 wattmeter
Covers 1.8 to 30 MHz, with 200 W and 2000 W full
scale.  It can also be used to check SWR, and has a
remote sensor that can either be left inside the meter,
or separated from the actual meter by about 3 feet.
SO-239 connectors in and out.
This particular meter is in very nice shape.
Paper work included for $40


Parts for Heath HM-102 / 2102 wattmeters:

Cover for Heath Wattmeter
This is the inverted "U" cover that fits the Heath HM-102
and HM-2102 wattmeters, and maybe other units.  It is
in nice shape. Paint is very nice.  $10

Main Cabinet for HM-2102 VHF Wattmeter
This is the darker green front panel and bottom, and mounting
ears.  It includes the silk screen markings on the front.  It is in
good shape, with one small spot missing the paint on the
bottom, in a location that will not show.  $8

Main Cabinet for HM-102 HF Wattmeter
As above, but for the HF version of the wattmeter.
Front panel is fine, but bottom has paint specs off.  $6

Reflectometer Assembly for Heath HM-102 HF Wattmeter
This is the entire reflectometer assembly, in the metal
enclosure that may be remoted from the meter if desired.
SO-239 connectors included, plus cable that goes to the
wattmeter body.  $12

Reflectometer Assembly for Heath HM-2102 VHF Wattmeter
As above, but for the VHF version of this popular wattmeter. $15

Meter enclosure from HM-102 / 2102 Wattmeter
This is the plastic part of the actual meter.  It includes the back
plastic part of the meter, and the meter lens which is in good
shape.  If you have a meter with the lens all messed up, this will
repair it.  This does not include the actual meter movement, or
any scale.  $7

Switch from HM-102 or HM-2102 wattmeter
This three position switch is used to select power range
or SWR, and is located on the bottom left side of the
wattmeters. $4


Other Heath parts:

Crystal for 12.545 MHz - Heath Part # 404-302
Used in Hetrodyne oscillator in HW and SB line rigs.
Still in its original box.  $12

Parts from SB-400 xmtr (likely will also work with SB-401)
meter switch  - $5
Mic/CW level control (dual pot)  - $ 7
Pilot bulb mounting hardware, w/#47 bulb - $2

I have many SB-630 parts as well.  Most of the internal
parts are available, but no clock.  Front panel and outer
case are gone, but reflectometer assembly, transformer,
switches, etc. are still available.
Please let me know what you need.


ORIGINAL Heath manuals. These are the manuals
only. They are all originals, and not copies, and all
are close to new condition.

HD-15 Hybrid Phone patch - 1965
Check marks in book,
Schematic is part of book. $8

Heath HM-2102 VHF Wattmeter Assembly Manual
1972 - Looks very close to new, but does have check
marks in the book.  Schematic included.  $10

Heath HW-2021 Assembly manual - 1975
For 2 meter hand held transceiver
No check marks in book. $10

Heath HN-31 A "Cantenna" Dummy Load
This is the "A" model dated 1982
No check marks in book. $10

GD-600 Photoelectric Light Switch
Very nice condition. Schematic is
part of book. $6

Heath  IM-5284 Multimeter
Large schematic only - $ 3

These are original manuals only.


Prices do not include shipping from Florida.

Thanks.

73,

Ken, W8EK

Ken Simpson
E-mail to W8EK@... or W8EK@...
Voice Phone  (352) 732-8400

Thanks to all of you who responded to my post.  It really gave me
something to look at.  I will let you know when I get this straightened
out.  73's Mike K8MB

My SB101 (close cousin to the HW101 except for VFO) did the same
thing just after I built it.  See my posts #4793 and 4895.

The shields between boards in the bandswitch are soldered at various
points and are retained by 2 slotted brackets mounted to the chassis
on each side of the shields.  The shields are soldered to ground at
several places, but early models used aluminum blackets that could
not be soldered.

If a shield is positioned precisely centered in the slot there is no
contact to worry about.  If lightly touching the side of a slot the
electrical contact is intermittant and will change randomly as you
describe at the slightest movement or temperature change.

Even though the shields are soldered elsewhere, intermittant contact
to the bracket slots will definitely change the coil tuning of one or
more boards at a time and result in poor final grid drive and poor
receiver preselector performance.

Heath came out with a mod kit to replace the aluminum brackets with
solderable brackets and changed the instructions to solder the
shields to the brackets to prevent this problem.  Your best bet is to
position the shields in the slot centers so they cannot touch the
brackets and jam some insulating tape in the gaps to be sure.  Then
re-align the coils.  It also helps to start by rotating the
Driver/Preselector control fully CCW 1 full turn (let the rubber
belts slip) to be sure both capacitors start at their max capacity
position.

I used to fix many HW101s and SB series while a Heathkit tech many
years ago.  This shield was something I always did to prevnt future
problems.  By the way, does the tuning 'warble' as you tune through a
carrier or CW?  There is an easy fix for this.

The S meter is noted for always reading on the low side, this is
normal.

Hope this helps.


--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Burch" <libertybell7@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Fella's
>
> My restored HW-101 is almost there but I still have this lingering
> problem with it.  Here are the symptoms.
>
> It is intermittent.
> Power drops off on all bands but is especially noticeable on 80 and
40
> meters down to about 25 watts and at the same time the s meter
becomes
> much less sensitive on receive.  Power output is not completely peak
> however when this problem is occuring on any band.  On 20 meters
> output is 80 watts but the s meters lack of response on receive is
> still present.
> I can get the s meter to deflect with a strong signal generator
input
> and the receiver is still sensitive down to at least 1 microvolt.
> I have checked voltages around the tubes and they seem in the
ballpark
> and the hetrodyne osc is producing well above -.82 volts on all
bands.
> On other days it works beautifully for hours and is just an
incredible
> piece of equipment to use.  I don't fully understand how these
pieces
> are effecting each other.  So the problem is effecting the s meter
> sensitivty and the power output at the same time.   I just want to
get
> this finished! :-)  Thank you in advance  Mike K8MB
>

Hi,

Sounds like an intermittent tube.  You might try substituting
a 6AU6 IF amplifier (V3 and V4) or VFO amplifier tube (V20).
You can swap with the Xtal filter isolation amplifier 6AU6 (V2).

I assume you've tried changing sidebands when the reduction of gain occurs, to
rule out the BFO tube.

I also assume that you've cleaned the contacts on the crystal filter selector
switch.

73,
Ed Knobloch


>Mike K8EB wrote
> Power drops off on all bands but is especially noticeable on 80 and 40
> meters down to about 25 watts and at the same time the s meter becomes
> much less sensitive on receive. Power output is not completely peak
> however when this problem is occuring on any band. On 20 meters
> output is 80 watts but the s meters lack of response on receive is
> still present.
> I can get the s meter to deflect with a strong signal generator input
> and the receiver is still sensitive down to at least 1 microvolt.
> I have checked voltages around the tubes and they seem in the ballpark
> and the hetrodyne osc is producing well above -.82 volts on all bands.
> On other days it works beautifully for hours and is just an incredible
> piece of equipment to use. I don't fully understand how these pieces
> are effecting each other. So the problem is effecting the s meter
> sensitivty and the power output at the same time. I just want to get
> this finished! :-) Thank you in advance Mike K8MB


_____________________________________________________________
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Sounds like a common area.

I had an intermittent on a Collins 75A-4
that was caused by a tube.  The tube would
test fine in a tube checker.  I replaced
it and never had the problem again.  The
way I found it was to use my SDR-1000 as
a signal tracer to follow the signal path.


Mike - AA8K



Mike Burch wrote:
> Hi Fella's
>
> My restored HW-101 is almost there but I still have this lingering
> problem with it.  Here are the symptoms.
>
> It is intermittent.
> Power drops off on all bands but is especially noticeable on 80 and 40
> meters down to about 25 watts and at the same time the s meter becomes
> much less sensitive on receive.  Power output is not completely peak
> however when this problem is occuring on any band.  On 20 meters
> output is 80 watts but the s meters lack of response on receive is
> still present.
> I can get the s meter to deflect with a strong signal generator input
> and the receiver is still sensitive down to at least 1 microvolt.
> I have checked voltages around the tubes and they seem in the ballpark
> and the hetrodyne osc is producing well above -.82 volts on all bands.
> On other days it works beautifully for hours and is just an incredible
> piece of equipment to use.  I don't fully understand how these pieces
> are effecting each other.  So the problem is effecting the s meter
> sensitivty and the power output at the same time.   I just want to get
> this finished! :-)  Thank you in advance  Mike K8MB
>
>
>

Hi Fella's

My restored HW-101 is almost there but I still have this lingering
problem with it.  Here are the symptoms.

It is intermittent.
Power drops off on all bands but is especially noticeable on 80 and 40
meters down to about 25 watts and at the same time the s meter becomes
much less sensitive on receive.  Power output is not completely peak
however when this problem is occuring on any band.  On 20 meters
output is 80 watts but the s meters lack of response on receive is
still present.
I can get the s meter to deflect with a strong signal generator input
and the receiver is still sensitive down to at least 1 microvolt.
I have checked voltages around the tubes and they seem in the ballpark
and the hetrodyne osc is producing well above -.82 volts on all bands.
On other days it works beautifully for hours and is just an incredible
piece of equipment to use.  I don't fully understand how these pieces
are effecting each other.  So the problem is effecting the s meter
sensitivty and the power output at the same time.   I just want to get
this finished! :-)  Thank you in advance  Mike K8MB

I am selling my SB102, speaker and power supply. The power supply has the
HeathShop board installed. If interested please let me know. If I get no
responses I am going to place the 102, speaker and power supply on EBay.

I am looking for $225.00 for all PLUS shipping or if in the DFW area
arrangements can be made to picked up the item saving the shipping charges..



Thanks;
David
WA4ECM


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