Heath items For Sale:

Heath HD-15 Phone Patch
This is the unit with the VU meter on the left and 3 knobs
that match the SB series to the middle and right.  Low or
high Z output to the transmitter. It can also be used as
an interface to the computer for PSK31, etc.  It is in
extremely good condition. No scratches or imperfections.
Paper work included for $25.


Miscellaneous Heath Parts:

Reflectometer Assembly for HM-2102 VHF Wattmeter
This assembly includes the wattmeter and SWR meter functions.
It is the metal enclosure that often is attached to the back
of the meter unit, but can also be mounted remotely.  This
is the assembly, in the metal enclosure, with the cable that
goes to the meter itself.  $15

Switch from HM-102 or HM-2102 wattmeter
This three position rotary switch is used to select power
range or SWR, and is located on the bottom left side of
the wattmeter's front panel. Of course it can be used in
other equipment also. $4

I have many SB-630 Station Console parts available.
Most of the internal parts are available, but no clock.
Front panel and outer case are gone, but reflectometer
assembly, switches, etc. are still available.
Please let me know what you need.

Chrome Bezel from around Heath HW-202 or HW-2036
two meter transceiver. Front panel bezel. $4


ORIGINAL Heath manuals. These are manuals only.
They are all originals, not copies, and
all are close to new condition.

Brochure "Heathkit Specials" featuring the
Twoer, Sixer, SB series, and others. $4

HD-1234 Four Position Coax Switch, 1973, no check marks $7

HW-2021 2 meter hand held transceiver
1975, No check marks $9

IM-5284 Multimeter, Large schematic $3

SB-102 HF Transceiver
Schematic Only, Large fold out page, $4

These are original manuals only.


Prices do not include shipping from Florida.

Thanks.
73,
Ken Simpson, W8EK
E-mail to W8EK@... or W8EK@...
Voice Phone  (352) 732-8400






__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 5053 (20100423) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

need to replace the NE-83B bulb in my heathkit scanalyzer SB-620
I can find sources online but only NE-83.  What is the "B" and can I use the
easily found NE-83 instead?
thanks, Fred

Fred wrote:
> need to replace the NE-83B bulb in my heathkit scanalyzer SB-620
> I can find sources online but only NE-83.  What is the "B" and can I use the
easily found NE-83 instead?
> thanks, Fred

I looked in my reference manual, and find that the "new" designation
for the NE-53 is the 5AH. I looked that up, and found this information.

First, that bulb has a radioactive additive to stabilize breakdown
voltage.

Second, this is the information on the 5AH-B

[QUOTE]

The 5AH-B is a selected 5AH with a 10v spread on breakdown and 8v
spread on mainitaining voltage. The differential at 7v between
breakdown and maintaining voltage allow circuit designer [sic] more
latitude with other components.

[END QUOTE]

So, that lamp has controlled breakdown and maintaining voltages.
Look carefully at the circuit, and see whether this bulb is used
for voltage regulation, or for timing in a relaxation oscillator.
If it is not (and I suppose that it is) then you can just sub a 5AH
(NE-53) without any problem.

If it is used for either of these, then you probably need the
selected bulb. You could buy a pack of 5AH (NE-53) and hand select
one yourself. Here are the specs...

initial DC breakdown voltage (in 5-50 footcandles illumination)
	 min 75V, avg. 80V, max 85V

DC maintaining voltage at 10.0ma
	 min 60V, avg. 64V, max 68V

DC maintaining voltage at 5.0 mA
	 min 58V, avg. 62V, max 66V

hours operation @ 10mA for 5 volt change
in breakdown or maintaining voltage
	 avg. 500 hours

hours operation @ 5.0 mA for 5 volt change
in breakdown or maintaining voltage
	 5,000 hours

design current
	 min 1.5mA, avg. 5.0-10.0 mA

leakage resistance at 80degF and 75% RH
	 min 100 Meg ohms

Aging procedure:
	 100 hours at design current or 24 hours at 15 milliamperes;
	 followed by 24 hours under typical circuit operating conditions.

So, what you could do is buy a pack of 5AH lamps, and build a little
DC supply and put separate resistors to each lamp to run them at
15 milliamps for 24 hours, and then at 7mA for another 24 hours,
and then measure the breakdown and maintaining voltages, and select
one of them which falls within the parameters above, and you'll have
a 5AH-B. Just build a little DC supply at 85V, and put a couple of
current limiting resistors in series. Attach the bulb, and if it
lights, then measure the maintaining voltages at the two currents.
Lessee... (85V - 58V)/5mA = 5400 ohms. I'd use a 5.6k for one resistor.
You see how to compute the other one. Anyway, you'd need to be able
to "tweak". So, try a 4.7K in series with a 10K pot, set to max,
and then adjust to current, and check voltage. I'll let you compute
the other one.

The 5AH (NE-53) already guarantees the 100 Meg ohm leakage resistance,
so you don't need to test for that. However, if you want to, it's easy.
Put a voltage on the bulb just below its DC breakdown voltage, say,
60V. Put a characterized DVM or VTVM (that is, known input resistance)
and set it to measure VOLTS. Put this in series with the bulb, and
measure the voltage. From this you can compute the current flowing.

For eample, suppose that you put 60V on the bulb, in series with
an 11 Meg VTVM, and measure 5.5V on the VTVM. You have a current of
5.5V/11Meg = 0.5uA. You have 60V - 5.5V = 54.5V on the bulb. So,
the resistance of the bulb is 54.5V/0.5uA = 109 Meg ohms.

Be sure to do your testing in some light (5-50 foot candles).

Mike
--
p="p=%c%s%c;main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}";main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}
Oppose globalization and One World Governments like the UN.
This message made from 100% recycled bits.
You have found the bank of Larn.
I speak only for myself, and I am unanimous in that!

> Tom Laszynski <k8jrm@...> wrote
One of my latest projects is the restoration of an early DX-60. I
have run into a problem that some of you may have experienced before.

The symptoms of this is that B+ & screen Voltage can be measured
across the Voltage divider, R-20, when the function switch is the
tune position. When it is in the AM or CW position there is no
voltage present.

I've traced a problem down to the function switch,
FS-2. Specifically, terminals 4 and 5. I can short across these
terminals and gain the necessary Voltage. <snip>

Hi, Tom

When you are in transmit position, is there 115VAC across terminals
5 and 6 of the accessory socket?  If so, you might install
a small relay with its coil across those
terminals, and its normally-open contacts in parallel
with terminals 4 and 5 of the function switch.

73,
Ed Knobloch

thanks for this great info.  I assume when you typed NE-53 you meant the NE-83.
thanks, Fred

--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, Mike McCarty <Mike.McCarty@...> wrote:
>
> Fred wrote:
> > need to replace the NE-83B bulb in my heathkit scanalyzer SB-620
> > I can find sources online but only NE-83.  What is the "B" and can I use the
easily found NE-83 instead?
> > thanks, Fred
>
> I looked in my reference manual, and find that the "new" designation
> for the NE-53 is the 5AH. I looked that up, and found this information.
>
> First, that bulb has a radioactive additive to stabilize breakdown
> voltage.
>
> Second, this is the information on the 5AH-B
>
> [QUOTE]
>
> The 5AH-B is a selected 5AH with a 10v spread on breakdown and 8v
> spread on mainitaining voltage. The differential at 7v between
> breakdown and maintaining voltage allow circuit designer [sic] more
> latitude with other components.
>
> [END QUOTE]
>
> So, that lamp has controlled breakdown and maintaining voltages.
> Look carefully at the circuit, and see whether this bulb is used
> for voltage regulation, or for timing in a relaxation oscillator.
> If it is not (and I suppose that it is) then you can just sub a 5AH
> (NE-53) without any problem.
>
> If it is used for either of these, then you probably need the
> selected bulb. You could buy a pack of 5AH (NE-53) and hand select
> one yourself. Here are the specs...
>
> initial DC breakdown voltage (in 5-50 footcandles illumination)
>  min 75V, avg. 80V, max 85V
>
> DC maintaining voltage at 10.0ma
>  min 60V, avg. 64V, max 68V
>
> DC maintaining voltage at 5.0 mA
>  min 58V, avg. 62V, max 66V
>
> hours operation @ 10mA for 5 volt change
> in breakdown or maintaining voltage
>  avg. 500 hours
>
> hours operation @ 5.0 mA for 5 volt change
> in breakdown or maintaining voltage
>  5,000 hours
>
> design current
>  min 1.5mA, avg. 5.0-10.0 mA
>
> leakage resistance at 80degF and 75% RH
>  min 100 Meg ohms
>
> Aging procedure:
>  100 hours at design current or 24 hours at 15 milliamperes;
>  followed by 24 hours under typical circuit operating conditions.
>
> So, what you could do is buy a pack of 5AH lamps, and build a little
> DC supply and put separate resistors to each lamp to run them at
> 15 milliamps for 24 hours, and then at 7mA for another 24 hours,
> and then measure the breakdown and maintaining voltages, and select
> one of them which falls within the parameters above, and you'll have
> a 5AH-B. Just build a little DC supply at 85V, and put a couple of
> current limiting resistors in series. Attach the bulb, and if it
> lights, then measure the maintaining voltages at the two currents.
> Lessee... (85V - 58V)/5mA = 5400 ohms. I'd use a 5.6k for one resistor.
> You see how to compute the other one. Anyway, you'd need to be able
> to "tweak". So, try a 4.7K in series with a 10K pot, set to max,
> and then adjust to current, and check voltage. I'll let you compute
> the other one.
>
> The 5AH (NE-53) already guarantees the 100 Meg ohm leakage resistance,
> so you don't need to test for that. However, if you want to, it's easy.
> Put a voltage on the bulb just below its DC breakdown voltage, say,
> 60V. Put a characterized DVM or VTVM (that is, known input resistance)
> and set it to measure VOLTS. Put this in series with the bulb, and
> measure the voltage. From this you can compute the current flowing.
>
> For eample, suppose that you put 60V on the bulb, in series with
> an 11 Meg VTVM, and measure 5.5V on the VTVM. You have a current of
> 5.5V/11Meg = 0.5uA. You have 60V - 5.5V = 54.5V on the bulb. So,
> the resistance of the bulb is 54.5V/0.5uA = 109 Meg ohms.
>
> Be sure to do your testing in some light (5-50 foot candles).
>
> Mike
> --
> p="p=%c%s%c;main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}";main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}
> Oppose globalization and One World Governments like the UN.
> This message made from 100% recycled bits.
> You have found the bank of Larn.
> I speak only for myself, and I am unanimous in that!
>

Thanks to all who responded.

I disassembled the function switch and discovered that one of the
fingers was not making contact.  Fortunately, there were no signs of
any arcing.  I cleaned the rotor portion of the switch with a pencil
eraser and sprayed all the fingers with a heavy dose of contact
cleaner.  Then I position the finger in question to a spot where it
was lower than normal and bent it down carefully.  It has been my
experience that doing this seldom works.  This time, I got
lucky.  I've re-assembled the switch and have confirmed that I have
proper connectivity when the terminal are in play.  Now all I have to
do is re-install the switch in the DX-60.

Had the bending of the finger failed, I was planning to drill out the
defective finger and install a new one taken from a junk box
switch.  Although I haven't try the relay solution, it sounds like it
might be a better solution.

Tom, K8JRM

I picked up 2 HD-10 keyers at a flea market. i finally have both working but the
speed control is different between them. one maxes out at 20ish WPM and the
other goes to Way better then i can do.
was there a mod to do this or is there a problem?
I am looking to likely sell one but the one that looks the nicest is the one
with full speed range.
any ideas?
I have the schematic and i was thinking that if R12 was a different value, it
might change the range. It is hard to open these things up to check though so i
thought i would ask if someone here knew.
Thanks
and 73
Barry
WB1EDI
dit dit

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID28326::\
T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Barry,

  I had one of those back in my novice days. It was a bear to open then I can
imagine what it must be like after all these years! There are 2 resistors that
need to be changed. You were close in your thinking. R13 and R22 need to be
changed together so the dot to dash ratio follows the speed properly. If you
have a full manual it should describe the values you need. (if you look at the
schematic it should show those two resistors without values because they depend
on what speed you build into it. I don't have a full manual or I'd help you with
the values.

Jim
WA2RJP




   ----- Original Message -----
   From: barry whittemore
   To: heathkit yahoo
   Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 20:26
   Subject: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question




   I picked up 2 HD-10 keyers at a flea market. i finally have both working but
the speed control is different between them. one maxes out at 20ish WPM and the
other goes to Way better then i can do.
   was there a mod to do this or is there a problem?
   I am looking to likely sell one but the one that looks the nicest is the one
with full speed range.
   any ideas?
   I have the schematic and i was thinking that if R12 was a different value, it
might change the range. It is hard to open these things up to check though so i
thought i would ask if someone here knew.
   Thanks
   and 73
   Barry
   WB1EDI
   dit dit

   __________________________________________________________
   The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
  
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID28326::\
T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi, Barry

Jim is right. If you look at the notes at the bottom of the schematic,
R13 and R22 (in dot generator multivibrator section)
should both be be 68K for the 10 to 20 WPM speed range.
The other range is given as 15 to 60 WPM, using 10K resistors.

I had one, but went back to using a bug. I found I enjoyed copying
a bug more, because you could +hear+ when the guy made a mistake.
With the keyer, the mistakes sound perfect,
and the brain has a hard time deciphering.

73,
Ed Knobloch


>Barry,

I had one of those back in my novice days. It was a bear to open then I can
imagine what it must be like after all these years! There are 2 resistors that
need to be changed. You were close in your thinking. R13 and R22 need to be
changed together so the dot to dash ratio follows the speed properly. If you
have a full manual it should describe the values you need. (if you look at the
schematic it should show those two resistors without values because they depend
on what speed you build into it. I don't have a full manual or I'd help you with
the values.

Jim
WA2RJP

----- Original Message -----
From: barry whittemore
To: heathkit yahoo
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 20:26
Subject: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question

>>I picked up 2 HD-10 keyers at a flea market. i finally have both working but
the speed control is different between them. one maxes out at 20ish WPM and the
other goes to Way better then i can do.
was there a mod to do this or is there a problem?
I am looking to likely sell one but the one that looks the nicest is the one
with full speed range.
any ideas?
I have the schematic and i was thinking that if R12 was a different value, it
might change the range. It is hard to open these things up to check though so i
thought i would ask if someone here knew.
Thanks
and 73
Barry
WB1EDI
dit dit

Thanks Jim and Ed,
It looks like i have one of each.
if my eyes were better i would have seen that
Thanks and 73
barry
WB1EDI

To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com
From: k4pf@...
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 02:21:27 +0000
Subject: Re: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question






























Hi, Barry



Jim is right. If you look at the notes at the bottom of the schematic,

R13 and R22 (in dot generator multivibrator section)

should both be be 68K for the 10 to 20 WPM speed range.

The other range is given as 15 to 60 WPM, using 10K resistors.



I had one, but went back to using a bug. I found I enjoyed copying

a bug more, because you could +hear+ when the guy made a mistake.

With the keyer, the mistakes sound perfect,

and the brain has a hard time deciphering.



73,

Ed Knobloch



>Barry,



I had one of those back in my novice days. It was a bear to open then I can
imagine what it must be like after all these years! There are 2 resistors that
need to be changed. You were close in your thinking. R13 and R22 need to be
changed together so the dot to dash ratio follows the speed properly. If you
have a full manual it should describe the values you need. (if you look at the
schematic it should show those two resistors without values because they depend
on what speed you build into it. I don't have a full manual or I'd help you with
the values.



Jim

WA2RJP



----- Original Message -----

From: barry whittemore

To: heathkit yahoo

Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 20:26

Subject: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question



>>I picked up 2 HD-10 keyers at a flea market. i finally have both working but
the speed control is different between them. one maxes out at 20ish WPM and the
other goes to Way better then i can do.

was there a mod to do this or is there a problem?

I am looking to likely sell one but the one that looks the nicest is the one
with full speed range.

any ideas?

I have the schematic and i was thinking that if R12 was a different value, it
might change the range. It is hard to open these things up to check though so i
thought i would ask if someone here knew.

Thanks

and 73

Barry

WB1EDI

dit dit


















_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en\
-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I do have a good assembly manual for my HD-10 if you need any part values or
help.AL KA7OZY

--- On Sun, 4/25/10, barry whittemore <wb1edi@...> wrote:

From: barry whittemore <wb1edi@...>
Subject: RE: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question
To: "heathkit yahoo" <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, April 25, 2010, 11:28 AM


Thanks Jim and Ed,
It looks like i have one of each.
if my eyes were better i would have seen that
Thanks and 73
barry
WB1EDI

To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com
From: k4pf@...
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 02:21:27 +0000
Subject: Re: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question






















 


   
     
     
     

Hi, Barry



Jim is right. If you look at the notes at the bottom of the schematic,

R13 and R22 (in dot generator multivibrator section)

should both be be 68K for the 10 to 20 WPM speed range.

The other range is given as 15 to 60 WPM, using 10K resistors.



I had one, but went back to using a bug. I found I enjoyed copying

a bug more, because you could +hear+ when the guy made a mistake.

With the keyer, the mistakes sound perfect,

and the brain has a hard time deciphering.



73,

Ed
  Knobloch



>Barry,



I had one of those back in my novice days. It was a bear to open then I can
imagine what it must be like after all these years! There are 2 resistors that
need to be changed. You were close in your thinking. R13 and R22 need to be
changed together so the dot to dash ratio follows the speed properly. If you
have a full manual it should describe the values you need. (if you look at the
schematic it should show those two resistors without values because they depend
on what speed you build into it. I don't have a full manual or I'd help you with
the values.



Jim

WA2RJP



----- Original Message -----

From: barry whittemore

To: heathkit yahoo

Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 20:26

Subject: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question



>>I picked up 2 HD-10 keyers at a flea market. i finally have both working but
the speed control is
  different between them. one maxes out at 20ish WPM and the other goes to Way
better then i can do.

was there a mod to do this or is there a problem?

I am looking to likely sell one but the one that looks the nicest is the one
with full speed range.

any ideas?

I have the schematic and i was thinking that if R12 was a different value, it
might change the range. It is hard to open these things up to check though so i
thought i would ask if someone here knew.

Thanks

and 73

Barry

WB1EDI

dit dit






   
     

   
   






                            
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New
  Busy. Get more from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en\
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This is their Home Page for subscribing, It's FREE:
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Here is a sample three pages in a pdf file..........
(check it out, it's a nice job and interesting articles)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sorry, I forgot the group stripped attachments.

I now included a link to it.  Simply click on it
and it'll open in Adobe Reader, (free on the Adobe website)

http://www.myheathkits.com/FS/K9YA_2010_05-3pagesonly.pdf

This is their Home Page for subscribing, It's FREE:
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Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 11:58:08 -0600
To: ARA Swaplist <araswaplist@...>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Disposition: inline
User-Agent: Internet Messaging Program (IMP) H3 (4.1.6)
Subject: [Araswaplist] ARA Swaplist 4/25
Errors-To: araswaplist-bounces@...

04/25/2010

AURORA REPEATER ASSOCIATION SWAPLIST


For LISTINGS & DELETIONS CONTACT n0poh@...

General Information
Listing accepted from Colorado - Wyoming - Western Kansas
Updates accepted via Internet n0poh@...

Check us out at http://www.n0ara.org

Listing conditions, Six weeks per listing unless I receive a renewal
via e-mail or on net. Too many folk are failing to remove items sold
or acquired. Thanks N0POH

To receive the swap list via Internet send a message to n0poh@...
Put the word SWAP in the Subject line and in the message subscribe. To
unsubscribe follow the above and use unsubscribe in place of subscribe.

NOTE: Anyone OUTSIDE the Denver metro may respond to any listing via
e-mail n0poh@...

Check out the latest From the Wyoming Swap Shop! http://www.n0ara.org/wss.htm

More Local and regional events may be found at CQ Colorado
http://cqcolorado.org/

---------------------------------
Pikes Peak Radio Amateur Association Inc. MEGAFEST
07/17/2010
Lewis-Palmer High School, 1300 Higby Rd. Monument Doors Open at 8 AM
Table Cost: $12.00   Admission: $5.00
Talkin: 146.97(+ (100 Hz PL))
Contact: Go To http://www.ppraa.org
for more information

---------------------------------
Buy/Sell/Trade

Date XX/XXex listing expires with that weeks posting. NOTE: Anyone
OUTSIDE the Denver metro may respond to any list via any listing via
e-mail n0poh@...

For Sale - A 1015 Mirage (pre MFJ) 6m brick 10 w in 150 w out $150
For Sale - MFJ 784B Tuanable DSP Filter $125

Wayne Heinen N0POH - (expires 06/13/2010)
303-699-6335 (Metro)
n0poh@...
---------------------------------
Wanted - HyGain Explorer 14 or similar small footprint triband Yagi in
good condition.  This is for a very high wind location so wind loading
is the key issue.

Brad McGann K9BM - (expires 06/13/2010)
Cell:406-220-0180 (Metro)
bmcgann@...
---------------------------------
For Sale - Heathkit SB-630 station console, $50.00 OBO

Jim Best WU7G - (expires 06/13/2010)
307-514-2820 (Cheyenne)
wu7g@...
---------------------------------
Wanted - Yaesu 857 or 897 or similar radio in Good Condition
Wanted - UHF amplifier for mobile use

Mike Davey N0VBY - (expires 06/13/2010)
303-995-5370 (Metro)
n0vby@...
---------------------------------
Wanted - Drake R-4B or complete B-line

Mark Foster K0EX - (expires 06/13/2010)
719-216-4188 (Colorado Springs)
Mark.Foster@...
---------------------------------
For Sale - AEA PK-900  $150.00

Don W7FFD - (expires 06/13/2010)
719-382-8686 (Fountain)
w7ffd@...
---------------------------------
This swap list is brought to you as a service of the Aurora Repeater
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Please include your name, call sign, home and/or work telephone number
(Let me know if Denver LOCAL for our Wed nite Net), packet address,
email address, home address, and of course your
listing.

All Items must be Amateur or Amateur related.Please feel free to list prices.

Wayne N0POH

Araswaplist@...
http://lists.n0ara.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/araswaplist

--- In heathkit@yahoogroups.com, "k4pf@..." <k4pf@...> wrote:
> I also could sell you a decent VTVM, a Triplett model 850.
> It is somewhat of an ugly duckling because of NC Highway Patrol
> labels on it, and someone substituted a too-thick power cord,
> but it should clean up well.  There is one small crack
> in the corner of the plastic meter face, about a half inch long.
> $15 plus shipping.  Reason for sale: I have 5 VTVM's.

   How much for the Triplett VTVM plus the PK-1 probe and shipping? I live in
38053

Thanks & 73
Larry

WB4HLX

Another group that has Heathkits on it's club Group's swaplist.
AND a 'heck' of a lot of other goodies.  Never forget that you
can always ask 'if they'll ship'...................

Wyoming Swap Shop reflector:
<http://ka7o.net/mailman/listinfo/wyoswapshop>http://ka7o.net/mailman/listinfo/w\
yoswapshop

Wyoming Swap Shop 04/18/10 de <mailto:kb7fgn@...>kb7fgn@...
Find the Wyoming Swap Shop on the
web:  <http://www.wyswapshop.site90.net/>http://www.wyswapshop.site90.net/

Any information supplied here for retail, repair
or places to find something is
not a recommendation of any kind, nor is it an
endorsement of quality of service, just
purely informational info, only!! Strike your own
deals, and make your own judgment
about anyone you are dealing with.

Wanted: KA7PNH-Bill, Glenrock, WY.,
<mailto:ka7pnh@...>ka7pnh@...
   Looking for a telescoping, crank up tower. 20’ to 35’

F/S: N7OQO-Bobbie, Billings, MT., 406-652-7254 Selling due to health
Steel Factory Antenna Tower,  20 ft. plus with 1 foot rungs….. $120.00
An extra 10 ft. section can be had for $50.  This is a very strong tower.
A-99 Vertical with radials 10/11/15/20 meters  No name listed,  $50.00
Drake low Pass Filter rated at 100 Watts max.  (30 Mhz and below)  $10

WANTED:  W7HDL-George, Salmon, ID., 208-756-4147
<mailto:gbabits@...>gbabits@...
A decent cabinet for a BC-348 receiver.  I'll
take the whole receiver regardless
of condition, but need a good cabinet.
Heathkit HX-10 Marauder Transmitter. 10-80 meters, CW & SSB 100 watts output.
good condition…………………………….  $185.00 or offers.
Hallicrafters HT-32 Transmitter 10-80 meters CW &
SSB, dusty & needs cleaning. All
complete w/ tubes & correct knobs. Has high
voltage/no low voltage. $125.00 or offers.
Hallicrafters SX-101 Receiver. 10-160 meters, AM, CW, SSB.  Dusty from storage
and missing cabinet.  Works pretty well……………..$175.00 or offers.
World Radio Labs Globe Champion 300.  300 watt AM
& CW transmitter 10-160 meters.
Needs to be cleaned up. The exciter stages seem
fine but fuse pops when the high voltage
is turned on………………………………………………..$175.00 or offers.
These are heavy and I'd prefer pickup or meet someone half way up to 300
miles or so.

F/S: Duane Cross, Roundup, MT., 406-947-2145
<mailto:drcross@...>drcross@...
              Heathkit HL2200 linear amplifier.
Self contained table top, 10-80 meters, brown, 2nd
              owner. All booklets, manuals, no
boxes. Made out of iron………..$800.00/negotiable
              Prefer pickup, but shipping can be arranged, weighs about 80#.
              Pictures available @
<http://www.pestingers.net/hl2200.htm>www.pestingers.net/hl2200.htm

F/S: K7HLN- Bob Soloman 406-6118 or C:406 465
0361, 161 Fairway Drive, Helena, Mt. 69601-0120
TS-430s Kenwood Transceiver,  160-10 Mhz, all
mode, orginal manual, non-original mic.
PS-430 Power supply
AT-230 Tuner with original manual, No original
boxes. Last used about 2 years ago,   Some
scratches and scuffing on all three pieces, mostly on the top of the cases.
As of now it has not been checked out,  Asking $400 for the three pieces.

Wanted: K0EX-Mark, Colorado Springs, CO.,
<mailto:telegraph@...>telegraph@...
              Drake R-4B or complete Drake B line station

F/S: WU7G-Jim, Cheyenne, WY., 307-514-2829
<mailto:wu7g@...>wu7g@...
Heathkit SB-630 station console, $75.00 OBO.

F/S: KE7FGB - Stephen, Green River, WY.,
307-875-2106 <mailto:steve@...>steve@...
Andrew FSJ4-50B 1/2" Superflex Heliax, new old stock, 1500+ ft. available,
will cut to length, no connectors. Make offer. May be willing to trade for
good/working ham equipment of like value.  Please email for info.

F/S: WY7LL-Leo, Gillette, WY., 307-686-8230
AMP Supply Corp. LA-1000. Cute little portable
kilowatt SSB, CW QSK amplifier. 120 or 240
volt.  15 thru 160 meters. Rated at 400 watts
rtty and sstv, 700 watts cw, 1200 watts pep on ssb
This was working when taken out of service years
ago. Needs tubes 6mj6 or equivalents. Served well
over the years. A great project for someone to
RE-tube to another type of tube or use as parts
for an amp project. $150.00+S&H or arrangements
for delivery to Casper hamfest or will work with buyer for delivery.

F/S: K7GMS-G.M.Stenulson
<mailto:k7gms@...>k7gms@... listed by
WB7WVO-J.R.406-323-1814 <mailto:wb7wvo@...>wb7wvo@...
Due to health reasons, Mr. Stenulson has to sell
his complete amateur station, consisting of the following items:
              Kenwood TS850, a Drake amplifier,
putting out approximately 1350 watts, a 30’ tower w/rotator &
controller, new watt meters, speakers, power
supply and other odds and ends, such as coax,
antennas, etc…….asking $2500.00 for the complete
station and accessories. E-mail Mr. Stenulson
direct, or call J.R. or e-mail him with any
questions. Pickup arrangements in Billings, preferred.

F/S: W7KWR-Bill, Thermopolis, WY., 307-864-5633
<mailto:w7kwr@...>w7kwr@...
              ICOM 207H 2mtr/440 transceiver  Asking…$175.00+S&H
Cushcraft AP-8 vertical Antenna w/ radials……………$375.00+S&H
              Cushcraft AR 6 Ringo 6 meter vertical---Brand New…$100.00 +S&H
3' Tripod…………………………………………………….$50.00+S&H
              8 PL-259 connectors (N)………………………………$2.50 each
              Straight Key …………………………………………..$25.00 +S&H

F/S: WB7CJT-Gary, Lander, WY., 307-332-4232
<mailto:wb7cjt@...>wb7cjt@...
Heathkit power supply, model #IP2720, for bench
use, 15 volt, in good working order
without manual…(price reduced)……….$50.00+S&H

F/S: KB7TGR-Jim, Gillette, WY., 307-682-4997
<mailto:jimbacker@...>jimbacker@...
MFJ 949E 300 watt tuner. Built in dummy load & manual…………..$80.00+S&H
Heil Pro head set w/H4 element, w/Kenwood adapter……………,,,$100.00+S&H

F/S: W7PN-Skip, Worland, WY., 307-431-0005
<mailto:w7pn@...>w7pn@...
Icom IC-756 Pro II w/matching PS-125 Power Supply & PS-21 matching
speaker, original, non smoking owner. Operating and Service manuals on
CDROM plus Printed in 3 ring binder. Excellent condition. $1,400.00+S&H
Rig Technologies Rig Expert SD Digital Interface. Internal Sound Card.
Interface cables for Icom Pro Series Transceivers. Does not use your
Internal Computer Sound Card. Excellent condition includes Two CDs with
Drivers and Digital Software. $75.00+S&H

Silent Key Estate of W0INC-Roy (Buck)
Howard  <mailto:kb7fgn@...>kb7fgn@...
Vibroplex iambic keyer, ser. #107207 made in 1933…………….$125.00+S&H firm
Shure DY12 & Dazor floating fixture model MP893 boom mic…$125.00 OBO+S&H
Heathkit VHF transceiver model 202……………………….$30.00 OBO+S&H

F/S: K7SUB-Bob, Byron, WY., <mailto:rvgrater@...>rvgrater@...
NIR-10 DSP noise reduction unit (see EHAM
reviews) $66. It runs on 12V and a new 12V 1.5A
switching supply will go with it for an
additional $8. Pick-up or $8.50 shipping by priority mail.

Vintage Equipment for sale –
W7BKH, Dick Hunter, 307 856 9376,
209 Shamrock, Riverton  82501
contact also:  Jon,  KψFOP,   Springertool@...
These items have been idle for 10 years +,  assumed working,
known defects are noted,  request you come or call, inspect,
negotiate price, and pick up.  We will accommodate you as we can.

   See pictures
at:
<http://www.springertool.com/W7BKF-Gear.html>http://www.springertool.com/W7BKF-G\
ear.html

$50 - Kenwood 2m xcvr          model 7850
$50 - Kenwood 2m xcvr          model 7950
$225 shipped - Kenwood hf xcvr         model
TS-520 w/original manual, 1 broken knob.
$175 shipped - National NCX3 tri-band
xcvr   w/original manual, no spker or pwr supply.
$150 - Hammarlund HQ-110 rcvr w/original manual and S-100 spkr
Hallicrafters S-40A rcvr, connected a Military BC-312 rcvr
$50 - EICO model 717 keyer, w/original manual
KDK FM-2016A 2m xcvr (blown finals)
$75 - Globe WRL Linear Amp – Model LA-1
$25 - Heathkit model 10-104 oscilloscope
$25 - Heathkit model 10-21 oscilloscope
Cigar box, crystals:       FT-243 – 3720, 3710, 7900,  7073.3
                          HC-11 – 3920, 3993, 3993.3, 7254.5, 7116
                          HC-11 (CB-1650kc
IF),27.215, 27.115, 27.085, 27.065,14, 38667?
$25 - Heathkit model AG-10 sine/square audio generator
$45 - Military BC-221 freq-meter, 2-20mc, complete
$40 - MFJ-202 rf noise bridge, NIB
$25 - Tektronix 120B oscilloscope
Sale pending - EICO 667 tube tester
$25 - EICO 425 oscilloscope
$40 - Knight-kit model 83YX tube tester
Antennas:                     MOSLEY TA-33
triband beam, in pieces, fair condx, needs
trap
work, w/original manual, 1965
                                      Mobile 2m, mag mount no magnet
                                      Misc 2m beams, several
                                      Tower section, 20 feet
                                      Cushcraft, Ringo, 2m vertical
                                      75 meter
dipole, rolled up, w/traps, instruction sheets.
WILSON 2m HT – w/charger,booster,& stand
OCTROTRONICS  FC-50C frequency meter
CB stuff:           Realistic swr meter w/attached dummy load
                          PACE 1000 CB4 SSB
                          PACE 40 ch & 23 ch SSB units w/skizmatics
                          KRIS swr meter CB
Vintage Speaker cabinet, 8” speaker, mfgr unknown.

$50 - Homebrew antenna tuner, in a large cabinet,
w/roller inductor … has a homebrew directional coupler in it also.

$100 Power supplies:   NPC 12v out, 12A linear, needs repair
                                      88-250vac in, 5v 19v 23v out, 40lbs.
                                      Powertech 5v 150A, switcher
                                      more …
Other Testers:               Heathkit transistor tester, model ?
                                      Sabtronics 2000 digital multimeter
                                      Heathkit capacitor tester
                                      Micronta model 22 multimeter
                                      Knight-kit multimeter

Boxes of misc parts, speaker, relays, panel
meters, ceramic caps, hookup wire, touchtone
phones & keypads, transistors, coils, UHF
&  multi-pin connectors, ICs, mobile antenna-springs, 1 complete ball-mount.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Picked up a GD-1B yesterday and notice that when I have the 14 - 37 MC, 37 - 100
MC and 100 - 250 MC coils installed, the meter will not read up scale, where as
with the 2 - 5 MC and 5 - 14 MC coils will cause the meter to read up scale.  I
also notice when using the higher freq coil plugged in, and I use a wide band
radio receiver, I am unable to tune in the freq of the GD-1B.

It would also help if I can get a readable copy of the manual for the GD-1b if
someone could send me a pdf copy.

David S.

If the meter does not read upscale the oscillator is not running. The first
thing to do is check the continuity of the coils.

The next thing to check is the coil socket pins. The may need cleaning. You
also may need to squeeze them a little.

Start with the Sensitivity control fully clockwise.

The pdf I have is attached. Come back if you need more help.

Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa.
"Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
----- Original Message -----
From: "gravelyfun" <david.stein@...>
To: <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 4:07 PM
Subject: [Heathkit:Yahoo] GD-1B Operation and Manual


> Picked up a GD-1B yesterday and notice that when I have the 14 - 37 MC,
> 37 - 100 MC and 100 - 250 MC coils installed, the meter will not read up
> scale, where as with the 2 - 5 MC and 5 - 14 MC coils will cause the meter
> to read up scale.  I also notice when using the higher freq coil plugged
> in, and I use a wide band radio receiver, I am unable to tune in the freq
> of the GD-1B.
>
> It would also help if I can get a readable copy of the manual for the
> GD-1b if someone could send me a pdf copy.
>
> David S.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> GROUP STATEMENT: Heathkit@yahoogroups.com purpose is to promote Heathkit
> discussions, as well as selling/buying Heathkit items and parts, and
> providing answers to questions relating to problems and maintenance of
> equipment. All Heathkit items(Ham/Test/Audio/RC/Automotive/Computers,etc.)
> are welcome subjects.
> MEMBERSHIP: 1907 members(as of 2/2/10), with a few ex-heath employees).
> NOTE: Pictures and attachments to e-mail are not permitted due to possible
> virus's, so please post them to a website OR to the groups 'files'
> section for them to download OR send them direct to the group member.
> NOTE 2: All auction items EBAY etc., are always WELCOME to be advertised.
> OTHER EMAIL GROUPS AT: http://www.myheathkits.com/ws/reflectors-lists.htm
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the offer, I think i am good for now but will let you know if i need
any info.

73

Barry



To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com
From: ka7ozy@...
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:36:26 -0700
Subject: RE: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question





I do have a good assembly manual for my HD-10 if you need any part values or
help.AL KA7OZY

--- On Sun, 4/25/10, barry whittemore <wb1edi@...> wrote:

From: barry whittemore <wb1edi@...>
Subject: RE: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question
To: "heathkit yahoo" <heathkit@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, April 25, 2010, 11:28 AM

Thanks Jim and Ed,
It looks like i have one of each.
if my eyes were better i would have seen that
Thanks and 73
barry
WB1EDI

To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com
From: k4pf@...
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 02:21:27 +0000
Subject: Re: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question








Hi, Barry

Jim is right. If you look at the notes at the bottom of the schematic,

R13 and R22 (in dot generator multivibrator section)

should both be be 68K for the 10 to 20 WPM speed range.

The other range is given as 15 to 60 WPM, using 10K resistors.

I had one, but went back to using a bug. I found I enjoyed copying

a bug more, because you could +hear+ when the guy made a mistake.

With the keyer, the mistakes sound perfect,

and the brain has a hard time deciphering.

73,

Ed
Knobloch

>Barry,

I had one of those back in my novice days. It was a bear to open then I can
imagine what it must be like after all these years! There are 2 resistors that
need to be changed. You were close in your thinking. R13 and R22 need to be
changed together so the dot to dash ratio follows the speed properly. If you
have a full manual it should describe the values you need. (if you look at the
schematic it should show those two resistors without values because they depend
on what speed you build into it. I don't have a full manual or I'd help you with
the values.

Jim

WA2RJP

----- Original Message -----

From: barry whittemore

To: heathkit yahoo

Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 20:26

Subject: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HD-10 Keyer question

>>I picked up 2 HD-10 keyers at a flea market. i finally have both working but
the speed control is
different between them. one maxes out at 20ish WPM and the other goes to Way
better then i can do.

was there a mod to do this or is there a problem?

I am looking to likely sell one but the one that looks the nicest is the one
with full speed range.

any ideas?

I have the schematic and i was thinking that if R12 was a different value, it
might change the range. It is hard to open these things up to check though so i
thought i would ask if someone here knew.

Thanks

and 73

Barry

WB1EDI

dit dit








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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

----------------------------------------------------------
GROUP STATEMENT: Heathkit@yahoogroups.com purpose is to promote Heathkit
discussions, as well as selling/buying Heathkit items and parts, and
providing answers to questions relating to problems and maintenance of
equipment. All Heathkit items(Ham/Test/Audio/RC/Automotive/Computers,etc.)
are welcome subjects.
MEMBERSHIP: 1907 members(as of 2/2/10), with a few ex-heath employees).

NOTE: Pictures and attachments to e-mail are not permitted due to possible
virus's, so please post them to a website OR to the groups 'files'
section for them to download OR send them direct to the group member.
NOTE 2: All auction items EBAY etc., are always WELCOME to be advertised.
OTHER EMAIL GROUPS AT: http://www.myheathkits.com/ws/reflectors-lists.htm
     (Yahoo! ID required)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Fred wrote:
> thanks for this great info.  I assume when you typed NE-53 you meant the
NE-83.
> thanks, Fred

Hmm. Let me look...

The NE-83 is listed as 5AH. My book doesn't list an NE-53. So, yes,
I guess the information is correct, except for the NE-53 tpyo.

Sorry for the confusion. I think the procedure I outlined will
do what you want.

60V might be just a tad high for checking the leakage resistance,
if you chose to do so. As you approach the breakdown voltage,
the leakage current increases dramatically.

Let us know how things come out.

Good luck!

Mike
--
p="p=%c%s%c;main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}";main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}
Oppose globalization and One World Governments like the UN.
This message made from 100% recycled bits.
You have found the bank of Larn.
I speak only for myself, and I am unanimous in that!

Hi, cant find a schematic/instuction sheet anywhere on this
neat preselector, could anyone on list help with this?
tnx jim kw3u

dx60b hw101 hw-100(under reconstruction)
two 12vdc units available for the hw100 101 series.

I have obtained a HW 101.

The manual shows me how to hook up the HP23A power supply but have not
found if I should use the high or low voltage setting on the HP23A.

Can someone email me and let me know.

Thanks
James

On which rigs do you use the high voltage setting and which do you use the
low or lower voltage setting?

At 19:10 4/26/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>I have obtained a HW 101.
>
>The manual shows me how to hook up the HP23A power supply but have not
>found if I should use the high or low voltage setting on the HP23A.
>
>Can someone email me and let me know.
>
>Thanks
>James
>
>On which rigs do you use the high voltage setting and which do you use the
>low or lower voltage setting?

  From the HW-101 manual

page_114 ~
HP/PS-23 SERIES POWER SUPPLY CONNECTIONS
CAUTION: Be sure the low voltage dc circuit of the HP-23A
Power Supplies are switched for 300 Vdc output. In the
HP-23B, HP-23C. and PS-23 Power Supply, make the internal
connections for 300 Vdc output.

Refer to Figure 1-6 for the following steps.
( ) Cut seven 5/8" lengths of clear sleeving and slip them
over the indicated wires.
( ) Connect the wires of the B-wire cable and the coaxial
cable (if a linear amplifier is used) to the 11-pin socket
lugs as shown. Solder each connection.
( ) Install the 11-pin socket cap over the free end of the
a-wire cable from the Power Supply.
( ) Remove 3/4" of the outer insulation from the end of the
a-wire cable. Then remove 1/4" of insulation from the end
of each wire.
( ) Push the lengths of sleeving over the lugs of the
socket.
( ) Melt a small amount of solder on each of the exposed
wire ends to hold the small strands of wire together.
( ) Snap the socket cap onto the 11-pin socket. Be careful
not to pinch any wires.

For the SB-201 and other linear amplifiers. use a piece of
coaxial cable through the cap to bring out the relay connections.

NOTE: With the above connections, the BIAS control in the
HP-23 Power Supply is inoperative. Proper bias settings are
accomplished with the BIAS control in the Transceiver


>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In an SB104A there are some coils on board C.

They are labled as 6.8 and 180.

These are square [approx 1 inch] and flatish and  called Peaking Coils.

If you were going to replace them what would be a good substitute?  Does
DigiKey or Mouser have them in stock and what are they called?

Thanks
James

James L. Fisher wrote:
> In an SB104A there are some coils on board C.

Without a schematic, and sorta guessing here...

>
> They are labled as 6.8 and 180.
>
> These are square [approx 1 inch] and flatish and  called Peaking Coils.

Those are almost certainly "video peaking coils", originally for
use in TV video amps, and used to increase the gain of an amp by
providing a small inductive load in a plate circuit. They usually
had some sort of red ceramic coating on them, and were marked
with color stripes on one side. They are probably 6.8uH and 180uH.

> If you were going to replace them what would be a good substitute?  Does
> DigiKey or Mouser have them in stock and what are they called?

Just about any inductor they sell should do, if they are the correct
value and have reasonable Q. I'd check the value, to make sure
that's correct.

Mike
--
p="p=%c%s%c;main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}";main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}
Oppose globalization and One World Governments like the UN.
This message made from 100% recycled bits.
You have found the bank of Larn.
I speak only for myself, and I am unanimous in that!

James,

   Mike is right - there are a number of those "peaking coils" used int eh SB-
104, especially on Board "C". Where are these coils located on the board and
what are they connected to? I have the manual and schmatic, so if I can
determine which coils they are (look for labels next to the coils labeled
"L3xx" or "RFC3xx") I'll see if the values are listed.

73s,
   Bill Bowen
   Sacramento, CA



To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com
From: Mike McCarty <Mike.McCarty@...>
Date sent: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 22:07:55 -0500
Subject: Re: [Heathkit:Yahoo] Peaking coil
Send reply to: heathkit@yahoogroups.com

> James L. Fisher wrote:
> > In an SB104A there are some coils on board C.
>
> Without a schematic, and sorta guessing here...
>
> >
> > They are labled as 6.8 and 180.
> >
> > These are square [approx 1 inch] and flatish and  called Peaking Coils.
>
> Those are almost certainly "video peaking coils", originally for
> use in TV video amps, and used to increase the gain of an amp by
> providing a small inductive load in a plate circuit. They usually
> had some sort of red ceramic coating on them, and were marked
> with color stripes on one side. They are probably 6.8uH and 180uH.
>
> > If you were going to replace them what would be a good substitute?  Does
> > DigiKey or Mouser have them in stock and what are they called?
>
> Just about any inductor they sell should do, if they are the correct
> value and have reasonable Q. I'd check the value, to make sure
> that's correct.
>
> Mike
> --
> p="p=%c%s%c;main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}";main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}
> Oppose globalization and One World Governments like the UN.
> This message made from 100% recycled bits.
> You have found the bank of Larn.
> I speak only for myself, and I am unanimous in that!
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> GROUP STATEMENT: Heathkit@yahoogroups.com purpose is to promote Heathkit
> discussions, as well as selling/buying Heathkit items and parts, and
> providing answers to questions relating to problems and maintenance of
> equipment. All Heathkit items(Ham/Test/Audio/RC/Automotive/Computers,etc.)
> are welcome subjects.
> MEMBERSHIP: 1907 members(as of 2/2/10), with a few ex-heath employees).
> NOTE: Pictures and attachments to e-mail are not permitted due to possible
>  virus's, so please post them to a website OR to the groups 'files'
>  section for them to download OR send them direct to the group member.
> NOTE 2: All auction items EBAY etc., are always WELCOME to be advertised.
> OTHER EMAIL GROUPS AT: http://www.myheathkits.com/ws/reflectors-lists.htm
>
>

High voltage settings for the HW/SB 100/101/102, low voltage for the single
banders (HW12/22/32) series

--- On Mon, 4/26/10, van wd8aam <vlincoln@...> wrote:

From: van wd8aam <vlincoln@...>
Subject: Re: [Heathkit:Yahoo] HP voltage setting
To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com, jlfisher@...
Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 1:00 PM







Β 









       At 19:10 4/26/2010, you wrote:

>

>

>I have obtained a HW 101.

>

>The manual shows me how to hook up the HP23A power supply but have not

>found if I should use the high or low voltage setting on the HP23A.

>

>Can someone email me and let me know.

>

>Thanks

>James

>

>On which rigs do you use the high voltage setting and which do you use the

>low or lower voltage setting?



From the HW-101 manual



page_114 ~

HP/PS-23 SERIES POWER SUPPLY CONNECTIONS

CAUTION: Be sure the low voltage dc circuit of the HP-23A

Power Supplies are switched for 300 Vdc output. In the

HP-23B, HP-23C. and PS-23 Power Supply, make the internal

connections for 300 Vdc output.



Refer to Figure 1-6 for the following steps.

( ) Cut seven 5/8" lengths of clear sleeving and slip them

over the indicated wires.

( ) Connect the wires of the B-wire cable and the coaxial

cable (if a linear amplifier is used) to the 11-pin socket

lugs as shown. Solder each connection.

( ) Install the 11-pin socket cap over the free end of the

a-wire cable from the Power Supply.

( ) Remove 3/4" of the outer insulation from the end of the

a-wire cable. Then remove 1/4" of insulation from the end

of each wire.

( ) Push the lengths of sleeving over the lugs of the

socket.

( ) Melt a small amount of solder on each of the exposed

wire ends to hold the small strands of wire together.

( ) Snap the socket cap onto the 11-pin socket. Be careful

not to pinch any wires.



For the SB-201 and other linear amplifiers. use a piece of

coaxial cable through the cap to bring out the relay connections.



NOTE: With the above connections, the BIAS control in the

HP-23 Power Supply is inoperative. Proper bias settings are

accomplished with the BIAS control in the Transceiver



>



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Greetings everyone,
     I am looking for a working or non working Heathkit power supply. Actually,
chassis alone without any components would be great too.

Thanks,
  Ray
rsumperl@...

I will swap these 2 knobs for an LM388N3, its the audio output dip(14) thats
used in the HW9 cw tranciever but could be used in other heath rigs.Thanks John
KF7OM

I just picked up a vintage HD-3030 RTTY/CW Terminal Interface.  Does anyone know
of any IBM-compatible software that will work with this?
Jeff, WB9DAN