Thank you for your suggestions on this Yahoo group and to my email address.  I
hope I can help them solve the problem before they don't have any native seed
source left.

J

Leslie: I have one dwarf Simpson's stopper which is about 5 1/2' tall. It has
been in for 3-4 years and disappointingly has not fruited. There is a hedge
of non-dwarf Simpson stoppers nearby and those plants fruit regularly.
Bill Bilodeau, St. Petersburg




________________________________
From: Leslie Pierpont <lespierpont@...>
To: "growingnative@yahoogroups.com" <growingnative@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, November 5, 2009 8:28:14 AM
Subject: [growingnative] dwarf simpsons stopper

 
Does anyone know if the dwarf form gets the orange berries that the
regular Myrcianthes fragrans does? Thanks, Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Mary, good to know



-----Original Message-----
From: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:growingnative@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mary Collins
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 5:28 AM
To: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [growingnative] nomenclature





In the Plant Finder, Conocarpus erectus var. sericeus is being used for
silver buttonwood.

Mary Collins

Senior Horticulturist

Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden

10901 Old Cutler Road

Miami, Florida 33156

Telephone: 305.669.4087 Fax: 305.661.8953

mcollins@... <mailto:mcollins%40fairchildgarden.org>

<http://www.fairchildgarden.org <http://www.fairchildgarden.org> >
www.fairchildgarden.org

Exploring, Explaining and Conserving the World of Tropical Plants

Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden voted the #1 Florida Wonder by readers
of The Miami Herald

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In the Plant Finder, Conocarpus erectus var. sericeus is being used for
silver buttonwood.



Mary Collins

Senior Horticulturist

Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden

10901 Old Cutler Road

Miami, Florida  33156

Telephone: 305.669.4087 Fax: 305.661.8953

mcollins@...

<http://www.fairchildgarden.org> www.fairchildgarden.org



Exploring, Explaining and Conserving the World of Tropical Plants

Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden voted the #1 Florida Wonder by readers
of The Miami Herald





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Does anyone know if the dwarf form gets the orange berries that the
regular Myrcianthes fragrans does? Thanks, Leslie

Greetings:



Is Conocarpus erectus 'Silver' now the widely accepted and correct name for
Conocarpus erectus var. sericeus?



Thank you

Judy

St. Lucie

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
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RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I can recommend Troy Springer of Springer Environmental. I contacted him and he
says he is interested in the job. Troy is very knowledgeable about native plants
- he is the president of the Suncoast Native Plant Society. His crew are
well-trained in the recognition of native plants. His business phone is
813-659-0370; his cell phone is 813-967-4538, or you can contact him by email at
troy@....

Harriett

--- In growingnative@yahoogroups.com, "bwwa1" <bwwa1@...> wrote:
>
> As a volunteer in Pinellas County, I have been helping an entity with a
project to develop a habitat area.  They aren't a county or city government so
they don't have staff that is trained in recognizing and knowing the difference
in natives and exotics.
>
> They received a grant to have an out of county contractor come in and remove
all the exotics.  Since then they have had two different local companies come in
to maintain removal of new exotics.  Their plan is to have someone come in
quarterly.  Although both companies were provided with a list of exotic species
to be removed (from the original grant), they have removed many of the natives
and do not recognize many of the invasives.  So far they have killed off most of
the Fragrant Water Lily, most of the Elderberry and all of the Pokeweed.
>
> Can someone suggest how I can help them find a company that would do the
maintenance properly?
>
> J
>

With volunteer groups we  have taken to removing ONE type invasive at a
time..that is, we have a demo in  the morning..."This is an air potato.  Remove
this and only this...these are the leaves, these are the  vines, these are
the potatoes, if you aren't sure, ask"

  If you were going  to be around so they could ask "what's next" it might
work.    Sometimes, I think it might actually be faster to work that way,
with a single  plant focus, especially on larger areas where direct supervision
is not always  possible.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Why would they kill the elderberry?!  Not only is it native, it provides
wonderful food for wintering birds, like catbirds.  Tell them to stop!

Try Biosphere for contracting.  They are experts and your people need help
or they are going to kill the wrong plants:

http://www.biospherenursery.com/pages/whatisbiosphere.html

Renne
________________________________________________________________________
2. finding a local contractor to remove exotics
     Posted by: "bwwa1" bwwa1@... bwwa1
     Date: Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:31 pm ((PDT))

As a volunteer in Pinellas County, I have been helping an entity with a
project to develop a habitat area.  They aren't a county or city government
so they don't have staff that is trained in recognizing and knowing the
difference in natives and exotics.

They received a grant to have an out of county contractor come in and remove
all the exotics.  Since then they have had two different local companies
come in to maintain removal of new exotics.  Their plan is to have someone
come in quarterly.  Although both companies were provided with a list of
exotic species to be removed (from the original grant), they have removed
many of the natives and do not recognize many of the invasives.  So far they
have killed off most of the Fragrant Water Lily, most of the Elderberry and
all of the Pokeweed.

Can someone suggest how I can help them find a company that would do the
maintenance properly?

J

As a volunteer in Pinellas County, I have been helping an entity with a project
to develop a habitat area.  They aren't a county or city government so they
don't have staff that is trained in recognizing and knowing the difference in
natives and exotics.

They received a grant to have an out of county contractor come in and remove all
the exotics.  Since then they have had two different local companies come in to
maintain removal of new exotics.  Their plan is to have someone come in
quarterly.  Although both companies were provided with a list of exotic species
to be removed (from the original grant), they have removed many of the natives
and do not recognize many of the invasives.  So far they have killed off most of
the Fragrant Water Lily, most of the Elderberry and all of the Pokeweed.

Can someone suggest how I can help them find a company that would do the
maintenance properly?

J

When I was growing up in Tampa, many years ago, all the cabbage palms had
"beards." No more. Today, landscapers add to their bottom line in the off season
by convincing homeowners to let them cut off the beards, the inflorescences, and
some of the green fronds as well. Cutting off the berries takes away food for
wildlife, removing the dead fronds takes away habitat for bats, and cutting off
green fronds is detrimental to the health of the tree.

Not only that, the trees look terrible, as if they'd been scalped! (End of rant)

Harriett

Re so-called hurricane proofing, a study in 1997 performed after hurricanes Opal
and Erin hit north Florida concluded that:

"Sabal palm (Sabal palmetto) was one of the most wind resistant species with 97%
and 100% standing after the hurricanes; actually, the one palm that was recorded
as fallen was knocked over by another falling tree."

The study was done by forest resource extension specialist Dr. Mary L. Duryea,
of the UF/IFAS School of Forest Resources and Conservation.

Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FR010

After the very-active 2004 hurricane season, writer Pamela Crawford (author of
Stormscaping) and researcher Barbara Hadsell studied the trees in South Florida
and how they fared the storms, and concluded that for wind resistance Sabal
palms were one of the very best choices. The other native trees in their "six
best" list were live oak and gumbo limbo. They also recommended exotic pygmy
date palms, crape myrtle, and foxtail palms. Their "worst" list included
Australian pine and Ficus benjamina, both invasive.

Source:
http://www.sun-sentinel.com/news/local/southflorida/sfl-treeplant-hurricane-guid\
e-c05310pnmay31,0,1998164.story

Jan Allyn

>>Here is a list of the evergreen woody plants native to Alachua
County suitable for hedges: Baccharis glomeruliflora, Baccharis
halimifolia, Forestiera acuminata, Forestiera godfreyi, Forestiera
ligustrina, Ilex cassine, Ilex glabra, Ilex opaca, Ilex vomitoria,
Lyonia ferruginea, Lyonia fruticosa, Lyonia ligustrina, Lyonia lucida,
Lyonia mariana, Persea borbonia, Persea palustris, Photinia pyrifolia,
Prunus caroliniana, Psychotria nervosa, various Quercus species, and
Viburnum obovatum. (NOTE: Forestiera species, Photinia pyrifolia, and
Viburnum obovatum are sometimes semi-deciduous, especially during hard
winters.)

Great!!!   That info is priceless, and greatly appreciated.  Thanks,
Rufino!

laurie (Mother Mastiff)
Southeastern USA (NC and FL)

Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, but learning to dance
in the rain.

I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn
how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Hope is like a road in the country; it wasn't always a road, but when
many people go the same way, the road comes into existence. - Lin
Yutang



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Another point to consider, palms move nutrients from the older fronds.  When a
frond is removed before it is completely brown the palm looses nutrients.

Carole

----- Original Message ----
From: Rufino Osorio <ratibida69@...>
To: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 8:39:32 PM
Subject: RE: [growingnative] Over-trimming of Sabal palmetto


Hello Larry,

I don't think "hurricane-proofing" refers to the prevention of old fronds from
blowing about in a storm. Especially since the aerodynamic shape of palm fronds
does not make them very good projectiles.

I believe that the contractors think that, by thinning the crown, the palm
itself is less likely to fall over in a hurricane. This is the same rationale
for thinning the crowns of broadleaf trees prior to hurricane season.
Unfortunately, this is false reasoning. There is hardly anything on this planet
that is more resistant to falling over in a hurricane than cabbage palms, even
when they are carrying a full crown of leaves.

One reason that you are having such a battle is that the practice really has
nothing to do with "hurricane-proofing." Rather, it has more to do with (1) a
landscape aesthetic that requires everything to be super neat and tidy and (2) a
desire to save money by having as long an interval as possible between visits by
the landscape crew.

The practice of practically beheading cabbage palms is especially bad since it
removes much of the wildlife value of the palms: it reduces the number of
flowers, which reduces nectar and subsequent fruits, and it removes a place for
wildlife to hide and seek shelter (the leafy skirt). I think cabbage palms with
a full skirt of old leaves, as well as a full crown of green leaves, is
extremely beautiful and I like the contrast between the older, brown leaves and
the young green ones. However, it is very difficult to get people to see the
beauty in this.

Regards,
Rufino
Palm Beach County

To: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
From: LarryRosen@...
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 01:33:27 -0400
Subject: [growingnative] Over-trimming of Sabal palmetto





















                   I have been trying to get the grounds staff at the campus
where I

work to ease up on trimming fronds (and boots) from the Cabbage

Palms.  They bring in contractors every September who do what I think

is over-trimming.  I got them to ease up last year a bit, so the

"rocket cuts" were not as severe and didn't take all year to look

decent again.  This year they were almost as bad as before.  I have

given grounds staff some FNPS literature on this, but it has only

helped a little. One of their justifications seems to be

hurricane-proofing.  Is there any documentation of Cabbage Palm

fronds doing damage during a storm?  Seems to me that it is very unlikely.



Larry Rosen

Kissimmee






















_________________________________________________________________
Bingâ„¢  brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.   Try it
now.
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EN_Core_tagline_local_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Hello Larry,

I don't think "hurricane-proofing" refers to the prevention of old fronds from
blowing about in a storm. Especially since the aerodynamic shape of palm fronds
does not make them very good projectiles.

I believe that the contractors think that, by thinning the crown, the palm
itself is less likely to fall over in a hurricane. This is the same rationale
for thinning the crowns of broadleaf trees prior to hurricane season.
Unfortunately, this is false reasoning. There is hardly anything on this planet
that is more resistant to falling over in a hurricane than cabbage palms, even
when they are carrying a full crown of leaves.

One reason that you are having such a battle is that the practice really has
nothing to do with "hurricane-proofing." Rather, it has more to do with (1) a
landscape aesthetic that requires everything to be super neat and tidy and (2) a
desire to save money by having as long an interval as possible between visits by
the landscape crew.

The practice of practically beheading cabbage palms is especially bad since it
removes much of the wildlife value of the palms: it reduces the number of
flowers, which reduces nectar and subsequent fruits, and it removes a place for
wildlife to hide and seek shelter (the leafy skirt). I think cabbage palms with
a full skirt of old leaves, as well as a full crown of green leaves, is
extremely beautiful and I like the contrast between the older, brown leaves and
the young green ones. However, it is very difficult to get people to see the
beauty in this.

Regards,
Rufino
Palm Beach County

To: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
From: LarryRosen@...
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 01:33:27 -0400
Subject: [growingnative] Over-trimming of Sabal palmetto





















                   I have been trying to get the grounds staff at the campus
where I

work to ease up on trimming fronds (and boots) from the Cabbage

Palms.  They bring in contractors every September who do what I think

is over-trimming.  I got them to ease up last year a bit, so the

"rocket cuts" were not as severe and didn't take all year to look

decent again.  This year they were almost as bad as before.  I have

given grounds staff some FNPS literature on this, but it has only

helped a little. One of their justifications seems to be

hurricane-proofing.  Is there any documentation of Cabbage Palm

fronds doing damage during a storm?  Seems to me that it is very unlikely.



Larry Rosen

Kissimmee






















_________________________________________________________________
Bing™  brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.   Try it now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MLOG\
EN_Core_tagline_local_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm afraid your choices are very limited. Hundreds of plants are toxic to sheep,
including common ornamentals such as wisteria, lantana, and angel's trumpets
(brugmansia). If you will do a Google search for the phrase "plants toxic to
sheep" you will find lists that include just about every non-native ornamental
plant in existence as well as various native plants.

Unfortunately, the conditions you list in your original post are such that just
about any plant, native or non-native, may well prove unacceptable to you:

1. Completely (as opposed to minimally) non-toxic to sheep
2. Fibrous-rooted (as opposed to taprooted)
3. Beautiful tree or shrub
4. Preferably ornamental when in bloom and/or fruit
5. Without red or yellow flowers
6. Able to grow in sand with limestone
7. Not invasive by means of suckers or runners

I suggest that you focus on stabilizing the sinkhole and disregard
characteristics that are incidental to your principal goal: a native plant that
can stabilize the sink hole without endangering sheep. Since the property
already has various kinds of oaks growing on it, I recommend that you use oaks
to accomplish the task. There are 17 species of oaks native to Alachua County so
you have plenty of choices. Also, oaks have outstanding wildlife value and are
extremely ornamental. There is a reason Druids worshiped oaks and I, among many
others, rightfully regard oaks as among the most ornamental plants on the
planet. And, most importantly for your purposes, oaks  are minimally toxic to
sheep. As one veterinarian put it, "Oak leaves can be toxic to sheep but they
have to consume over 50% of their diet with oak leaves." Since you are so
concerned for the welfare of your sheep, I'm assuming that you care for them in
such a manner that they are never so hungry as to be tempted to consume over 50%
of their diet in the form of oak leaves and that oaks will pose no danger to
them.

Your original post also had a second part: [I] Want to grow a NATIVE [evergreen]
privacy screen.

Here is a list of the evergreen woody plants native to Alachua County suitable
for hedges: Baccharis glomeruliflora, Baccharis halimifolia, Forestiera
acuminata, Forestiera godfreyi, Forestiera ligustrina, Ilex cassine, Ilex
glabra, Ilex opaca, Ilex vomitoria, Lyonia ferruginea, Lyonia fruticosa, Lyonia
ligustrina, Lyonia lucida, Lyonia mariana, Persea borbonia, Persea palustris,
Photinia pyrifolia, Prunus caroliniana, Psychotria nervosa, various Quercus
species, and Viburnum obovatum. (NOTE: Forestiera species, Photinia pyrifolia,
and Viburnum obovatum are sometimes semi-deciduous, especially during hard
winters.)

Regards,
Rufino
Palm Beach County

--- In growingnative@yahoogroups.com, "laurie \(Mother Mastiff\)" <mother@...>
wrote:
>
> Eek,
>
> I had all the wild cherries and cherry laurels removed, even from the
> greenbelt, they are TOXIC to sheep.  and VERY invasive.
>
> laurie (Mother Mastiff)
> Southeastern USA (NC and FL)
>
> Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, but learning to dance
> in the rain.
>
> I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn
> how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
>
> Hope is like a road in the country; it wasn't always a road, but when
> many people go the same way, the road comes into existence. - Lin
> Yutang
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Eek,

I had all the wild cherries and cherry laurels removed, even from the
greenbelt, they are TOXIC to sheep.  and VERY invasive.

laurie (Mother Mastiff)
Southeastern USA (NC and FL)

Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, but learning to dance
in the rain.

I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn
how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Hope is like a road in the country; it wasn't always a road, but when
many people go the same way, the road comes into existence. - Lin
Yutang



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have been trying to get the grounds staff at the campus where I
work to ease up on trimming fronds (and boots) from the Cabbage
Palms.  They bring in contractors every September who do what I think
is over-trimming.  I got them to ease up last year a bit, so the
"rocket cuts" were not as severe and didn't take all year to look
decent again.  This year they were almost as bad as before.  I have
given grounds staff some FNPS literature on this, but it has only
helped a little. One of their justifications seems to be
hurricane-proofing.  Is there any documentation of Cabbage Palm
fronds doing damage during a storm?  Seems to me that it is very unlikely.

Larry Rosen
Kissimmee

Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) is a Category 1 invasive pest plants. This
ranks it among the worst invasive pest plants in Florida. It should not come as
a surprise that it is native to Asia. As I mentioned in a previous post, some of
the very worst invasive pest plants in North America come from Asia.

Your recommendation of Carolina laurel cherry (Prunus caroliniana) is excellent
and you summarized its positive traits very well. I would list two additional
traits: (1) the leaves have a wonderful almond scent when crushed and (2) the
foliage is eaten by several moth and butterfly caterpillars...and caterpillars
are one of the principal foods of baby birds.

Regards,
Rufino
Palm Beach County

--- In growingnative@yahoogroups.com, kfidei@... wrote:
>
> that I don't know...I  would imagine all maples are deep rooted.   I have
> heard  Chickasaw Plum is also well rooted, but it sends up suckers, so if
> that is a  problem, it isn't for you.   Camphor trees are really well rooted,
> but  they are non-native (maybe even a category 2 plant pest, I'm not sure.
> Cherry laurels are native and pretty well rooted, and smell  delicious in
> the spring, but they also send up suckers anywhere  the root system is
> damaged, and are brittle too, not nearly as bad as the  maples, but apt to
lose
> portions in hurricanes.  I had two cherry laurels  in my front yard,  one sent
> up suckers all the time and was damaged in  Hurricane Charley, the other
> was fine, and lost only a couple of large branches,  which most of the trees
> around here did.  They are astonishingly fast  growers, and I get a front
> yard FULL of migratory robins every year when the  cherries ripen, and they
can
> be trimmed to hedge size.  How about something  like coontie or saw
> palmetto...the latter being very slow growing, but once  established your sink
hole
> will be stable as a house.  You could plant some  beach sunflowers  or
> lantana around them for color.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

that I don't know...I  would imagine all maples are deep rooted.   I have
heard  Chickasaw Plum is also well rooted, but it sends up suckers, so if
that is a  problem, it isn't for you.   Camphor trees are really well rooted,
but  they are non-native (maybe even a category 2 plant pest, I'm not sure.
Cherry laurels are native and pretty well rooted, and smell  delicious in
the spring, but they also send up suckers anywhere  the root system is
damaged, and are brittle too, not nearly as bad as the  maples, but apt to lose
portions in hurricanes.  I had two cherry laurels  in my front yard,  one sent
up suckers all the time and was damaged in  Hurricane Charley, the other
was fine, and lost only a couple of large branches,  which most of the trees
around here did.  They are astonishingly fast  growers, and I get a front
yard FULL of migratory robins every year when the  cherries ripen, and they can
be trimmed to hedge size.  How about something  like coontie or saw
palmetto...the latter being very slow growing, but once  established your sink
hole
will be stable as a house.  You could plant some  beach sunflowers  or
lantana around them for color.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Laurie,

Unfortunately, Japanese maples are showing every sign of becoming invasive pest
plants. Marberry Arboretum in southern Illinois regards it as having the
potential to become invasive in the future and New York City Department of Parks
& Recreation lists it as an invasive species to be used only with discretion
(e.g., only in highly urbanized regions well away from natural areas). In
general, it is best to avoid Asiatic plants since plants from Asia tend to
readily escape cultivation and become problematic weeds in North America. In
this regard, Acer palmatum is no exception and it has already escaped from
cultivation in four states, the District of Columbia, and in one Canadian
province. Its cultivation should be assiduously avoided in order to prevent it
from becoming established in additional sites in North America.

Regards,

Rufino Osorio
Palm Beach County



To: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
From: mother@...
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 18:06:19 -0400
Subject: [growingnative] Re: Need INVASIVE rooted small tree or shrub (really!)





















                   Thanks!



As a victim of maples falling apart in hurricanes and smashing in the

roof of the house I was renting, I really don't like having maples

near a fence or near a house.  If I hadn't had that experience, I

would enjoy your idea, I love the LOOKS of maples.



I wonder, would the cute little Japanese maples with ornamental leaves

be as well rooted as the red and silver maples that are such a threat

to the fence?



laurie (Mother Mastiff)

Southeastern USA (NC and FL)



Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, but learning to dance

in the rain.



I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn

how to do it. - Pablo Picasso



Hope is like a road in the country; it wasn't always a road, but when

many people go the same way, the road comes into existence. - Lin

Yutang





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






















_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC that’s right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks!

As a victim of maples falling apart in hurricanes and smashing in the
roof of the house I was renting, I really don't like having maples
near a fence or near a house.  If I hadn't had that experience, I
would enjoy your idea, I love the LOOKS of maples.

I wonder, would the cute little Japanese maples with ornamental leaves
be as well rooted as the red and silver maples that are such a threat
to the fence?

laurie (Mother Mastiff)
Southeastern USA (NC and FL)

Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, but learning to dance
in the rain.

I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn
how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Hope is like a road in the country; it wasn't always a road, but when
many people go the same way, the road comes into existence. - Lin
Yutang



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I find have have more success with some plants than with others.  You may know
this, but just in case,seeds fall blooming perenial seeds should be planted in
the fall.  Don't plant them too deep, some even need light to germinate. Also,
try cuttings.  Some need 2 leaf nodes in the earth instead of just one. Don't
leave too many leaves on the cutting, the plant may not be able to support them
all.  If the leaves are large I sometimes cut them to make them smaller.  I just
started some blue curls, skullcap, and coral honeysuckle.
Happy native gardening,
Carole




________________________________
From: Cindi Stewart <cinstew@...>
To: growingnative@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 7:01:11 AM
Subject: RE: [growingnative] Re:soil for cuttings




We live in the "middle of nowhere" so I don't have a big selection to choose
from - but I have had the best luck with the "cactus" mix for natives.  We
only use cuttings  and have a greenhouse with misting system-I have not
tried using seeds.

Cindi

I too have had very poor germination rates from native plant seeds - which
I would think should be easy to get to germinate. I'd like to add to your
request, and ask for any other tips for germinating native plant seeds,
which are so plentiful, but often difficult to get to germinate. Standard
"planting mix" soil from Home Depot, kept moist, which works for most
commercial seeds (flower and vegetable) hasn't worked for me with native
plant seeds.

Edward

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We live in the "middle of nowhere" so I don't have a big selection to choose
from - but I have had the best luck with the "cactus" mix for natives.  We
only use cuttings  and have a greenhouse with misting system-I have not
tried using seeds.

Cindi



I too have had very poor germination rates from native plant seeds - which
I would think should be easy to get to germinate. I'd like to add to your
request, and ask for any other tips for germinating native plant seeds,
which are so plentiful, but often difficult to get to germinate. Standard
"planting mix" soil from Home Depot, kept moist, which works for most
commercial seeds (flower and vegetable) hasn't worked for me with native
plant seeds.

Edward

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

you want red  maples...the roots go EVERYWHERE.  They are beautiful trees,
pretty fast  growing with great fall color, and because they are thirsty,
the roots will go  straight down around your sinkhole.  I just joined the
discussion, so  pardon me if this is a repeat.   I was able to walk along an
irrigation canal and gather 12 seedlings in about as many minutes.    The only
other problem is they are relatively brittle...the seedlings I  collected
for friends (also stabilizing a pond area) were the result of seeds  blown
from Hurricane Charley, which broke a lot of the adult maples in the area,
didn't take them down, but broke large, sometimes very large limbs.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I too have had  very poor germination rates from native plant seeds - which
I would think should be easy to get to germinate.  I'd like to add to your
request, and ask for any other tips for germinating native plant seeds,
which are so plentiful, but often difficult to get to germinate.  Standard
"planting mix" soil from Home Depot, kept moist, which works for most
commercial seeds (flower and vegetable) hasn't worked for me with native
plant seeds.



Edward



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In growingnative@yahoogroups.com, "mothermastiff" <mother@...> wrote:
>
> The guys clearing our land in Alachua FL promised to stay well away from the
small sinkhole, then thoughtlessly bulldozed the saplings from around it,
removing roots and all, destabilizing the rim.
>
> I love my sinkhole as it IS, but REALLY don't want it to grow.
>
> We had them leave a 20-30 ft greenbelt all the way around, but the clearing
crew didn't take the greenbelt AROUND the sinkhole.  Just acted as if it wasn't
there.
>
> So the top edge of the sinkhole is VERY bare (exposed to direct rain)and has
soft or loosened places where several sets of tree roots were pulled out.  I am
afraid of washouts when we have hard rains, and thought planting native plants
with invasive roots in those holes might be the very best solution.
>
> Usually invasive roots are undesirable, but for this, we WANT invasive roots
that will hold the edge of the sinkhole together!
>
> So for Alachua County, if there is a beautiful tree or shrub that you have
always loved, but thought "what a shame its roots are so invasive", tell me all
about it!    Better yet if it is ornamental or fruiting!
>
> We CANNOT have anything toxic to sheep, because eventually it might hang over
their pasture.
>
> I am not fond of red or yellow blooms, but the world is full of other gorgeous
colors, just about anything else is fine.
>
> The sinkhole is about 15 x 25.  It needs two or three small trees or shrubs to
fill the space and stabilize it.
>
> This space is on the west side of the eastern edge of the greenbelt, so it
will have early morning shade and then sun most of the day.  No more shade till
quite late in the day (if at all).
>
> Soil is the typical sand with limestone.  There are two huge native dogwoods
and a tall skinny blueberry near the sinkhole, and many kinds of oaks. (The lot
had commercial pines till we had it cleared, we kept most of the native trees
that were growing between the pines, that's why the blueberry is so tall and
skinny, I would guess.)
>
> Also, for a privacy screen near the other corner of the same side of the lot,
but getting a little afternoon shade from trees in the pasture, WHAT is a good
evergreen that will grow fast to hide the neighbor's collection of rusty dead
cars???  Want to grow a NATIVE privacy screen.  I prefer lawn ornaments to have
roots and leaves or flowers....
>
> thanks!  laurie (Mother Mastiff)
> Moving to Alachua later this year
>
I suggest planting sunshine mimosa as a deep rooted ground cover around the
sinkhole, I don't have a tree suggestion, but maybe walter's viburnum which
suckers would be a stabilizer. It can take wet feet. Lastly try Simpson's
stopper as a privacy hedge, Leslie

The guys clearing our land in Alachua FL promised to stay well away from the
small sinkhole, then thoughtlessly bulldozed the saplings from around it,
removing roots and all, destabilizing the rim.

I love my sinkhole as it IS, but REALLY don't want it to grow.

We had them leave a 20-30 ft greenbelt all the way around, but the clearing crew
didn't take the greenbelt AROUND the sinkhole.  Just acted as if it wasn't
there.

So the top edge of the sinkhole is VERY bare (exposed to direct rain)and has
soft or loosened places where several sets of tree roots were pulled out.  I am
afraid of washouts when we have hard rains, and thought planting native plants
with invasive roots in those holes might be the very best solution.

Usually invasive roots are undesirable, but for this, we WANT invasive roots
that will hold the edge of the sinkhole together!

So for Alachua County, if there is a beautiful tree or shrub that you have
always loved, but thought "what a shame its roots are so invasive", tell me all
about it!    Better yet if it is ornamental or fruiting!

We CANNOT have anything toxic to sheep, because eventually it might hang over
their pasture.

I am not fond of red or yellow blooms, but the world is full of other gorgeous
colors, just about anything else is fine.

The sinkhole is about 15 x 25.  It needs two or three small trees or shrubs to
fill the space and stabilize it.

This space is on the west side of the eastern edge of the greenbelt, so it will
have early morning shade and then sun most of the day.  No more shade till quite
late in the day (if at all).

Soil is the typical sand with limestone.  There are two huge native dogwoods and
a tall skinny blueberry near the sinkhole, and many kinds of oaks. (The lot had
commercial pines till we had it cleared, we kept most of the native trees that
were growing between the pines, that's why the blueberry is so tall and skinny,
I would guess.)

Also, for a privacy screen near the other corner of the same side of the lot,
but getting a little afternoon shade from trees in the pasture, WHAT is a good
evergreen that will grow fast to hide the neighbor's collection of rusty dead
cars???  Want to grow a NATIVE privacy screen.  I prefer lawn ornaments to have
roots and leaves or flowers....

thanks!  laurie (Mother Mastiff)
Moving to Alachua later this year

The Pine Lily Chapter of the Florida Native Plant Society
invites you
to a presentation by
Nancy Bissett
restoration ecologist, botanist, and horticulturist with
The Natives, Inc.

"Restoring upland ecosystems:
turning pasture into flatwoods, sandhills, and scrub by seeding and planting"

Thursday, September 17, 2009
6:30 p.m.

First United Methodist Church,
101 W. Dakin Av,
Fellowship Hall
Kissimmee FL 34741

THE PUBLIC IS WELCOME

The purpose of the Florida Native Plant Society is to promote the preservation,
conservation, and restoration of the native plants and native plant communities
of Florida.   The Pine Lily Chapter is an umbrella chapter covering Osceola
County and is non-profit.

Details www.fnps.org (407-433-4483) or PineLilyFNPS@...

Thank you.
Loret Thatcher
Publicity Chair
Pine Lily Chapter

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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We are on facebook too!   Become a FAN! www.tinyurl.com/PineLilyFNPSFacebook

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I got a wonderful book of native Florida landscape plants, and identified many
small trees spread around our lot as hackberries, also known as sugarberries. 
They have extremely pretty textured trunks and are small.

We were very curious about three things.

First, are hackberry plants either toxic to sheep or cattle, or so tasty they
need a fence to protect them FROM the sheep?  Need to know before we bring the
sheep down from NC!!!

Second, what are the berries like?  Tasty for people, good for jam or jelly,
better left for wild birds?

Third, are they purely an understory plant, or are they healthy growing where
they get a half day's sun or slightly more?  We HAD to remove a lot of trees....
Wondering which "exposed" hackberries have a good chance of survival.

Thanks! laurie (Mother Mastiff)
Moving this year to Alachua county