To all my fellow SCA-dians,

I am pleased to announce that from now until the month of May, the garb
that I created for the Coronation of Timothy and Gabrielle (thanks to
the wonderful support of Lady Laurelhelena of An Dhubaggaein and her
wonderful beadwork) will be on display at Greenberg & Hammer.  (Info
below).

Greenberg & Hammer is the oldest dressmaker shop in New York City.
Since 1919 they have provided such supplies to the theater community as
well as the domestic sewer.  They mail order throughout the world.  They
carry many notions and supplies that we just read about and have no idea
where to find, i.e., petersham, rigilene, etc., they have all kinds of
professional and semi-professional dress forms and steam generator irons
as well as gravity presses, corset stays, millinery, interfacings,
diverous hooks and eys, etc.  You name they have or or can get it.  They
are #1.

Why am I telling you all this?  Well from now until when they remove my
costume, I have set up with them that any SCA member, with a membership
card, will receive a 10% discount on all their purchases.   Have no fear
out-ot-towners, Greenberg has a mail-order catalog that you can order to
peruse at your will.  The info is as follows:

Greenbert & Hammer
24 West 57th Street
(Bet. 5th & 6th Aves)
New York, New York  10019
(212) 246-2835
(212) 765-8475 - fax
(800) 955-5135

Ask for Frank Rizzo.

A copy of your membership is all you need, even by fax or copy.  They
take all major credit cards.

Please go by and see the costume if you have not seen it yet.  Given
the fact that Shakespeare In Love and Elizabeth I have just received
multiple Oscar nominations, there is a flutter over this grand period.
I am proud to celebrate the SCA in this endeavor.

Please post this to your local newsletters and arts & sciences groups.

Thanks.

Yours in service to the Dream

Baroness Mistress Isabella of York

Hello friends!

	 This is being posted to the GPearl list as well as to the membership so
please forgive me if you get this twice.

	 I'm sorry for those of you who couldn't make it to the EKU this past
weekend. I had a wonderful wonderful day and was able to take some
fascinating classes!

	 Dame Catriona taught her very informative class on Eleanora of Toledo and
her handout contains a FABULOUS bibliography which I will post to our
website as soon as I get a chance (bear with me - it's a 3 pager and my
typing is pretty awful these days due to a problem with my hand(s)/wrist(s)).

	 Any of you who have other books to recommend for our bibliography (whether
on Eleanora or Cosimo or whatever other subject you're looking into for our
theme), please don't hesitate to give me titles and/or articles to publish.
I've had some mail from non-guild parties who are interested in the event
and they're developing quite an enthusiasm for this theme.  :)

	 I had a lovely group in the portraiture class and they inspired me to
teach the next installment at Pennsic along with this same class for any
who wish to take it.

	 All in all, I had a fabulous time at EKU and I sorrow for those of you who
missed it. Of course, now I will need to find a way to clone myself to take
on the additional fields of interest inspired by the classes I took. ;)

	 More to come later. I'll let you all know when I get the bibliography up
online.

	 Talk to you soon!

	 Annastassja


<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Known in the SCA as Mistress Annastassja Diaz de León

The Gilded Pearl
  ................ http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/gpearl.htm
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Greetings to all of you and Happy New Year!

	 I hope everyone's been enjoying the holidays with a minimum of stress and
in good health.

	 This is just a gentle reminder that we are having a small, and very short
meeting at EK Twelfth Night on January 16th. I don't know when the order
meetings are scheduled (pending an answer from Her Majesty) but we will try
to have our little gathering without conflict.

	 From what I'm told, there isn't really a meeting room so we will have to
make do with what space we can find. As I said, I want the meeting to be
very brief, mostly an opportunity to get together and see each other again,
but I would like for you to think on our next event and current project -
Florence, 1539; the Wedding of Cosimo de Medici and Eleanor of Toledo.

	 Hopefully, we will have a bibliography available online on the website
shortly. Mistress Catriona has a great deal of background on this subject
and I'm greatly looking forward to the booklist.

	 If there is anyone else who will be teaching a class at this EKU or who is
even thinking about it, please let me know. When you get in touch with
William the Alchemist (the current Chancellor of the University), please
let him know that your class is affiliated with the Gilded Pearl.

	 For those of you not yet signed up, we have an online mailing list /
newsgroup which Mistress Francesca has been kind enough to set up for us
all. It's a wonderful opportunity for us to "talk" and keep in touch with
our fellow guildmembers throughout the EK and to discuss bits of our
project. If you would like to subscribe, go to:
		 http://www.onelist.com/viewarchive.cgi?listname=gpearl

	 From there, you can either read the archived digests (for previous
correspondence there) or you can subscribe to the list.

	 Another gentle reminder - please try to teach a class at the upcoming EKU
in Rusted Woodlands on February 6th.

	 We need to establish our project in the eyes of the East Kingdom. If you
don't yet have something developed enough in our specific project, please
think about teaching at least something in the period. For example, I will
be teaching a class in "Drawing: Practical Portraiture, Late Renaissance
Style". While my class isn't specifically centered around the wedding, it
will be a practical class with examples of the period and place in question
among other examples for reference.

	 That's all for now. Please don't hesitate to write with any ideas or
suggestions. Also, if you know someone who doesn't have eMail, please feel
free to print this out and pass it along.

	 Thank you and talk to you all soon!

	 Annastassja

To all, many fine greetings in this New Year,
     Everyone sounds so busy and so informed. Sometimes for me,
the day begins with me wondering IF I should have researched it!!
And it is the present!
     Those mumblings aside, I do want some help. I've been trying to
find some solid information (aside from looking at Eleanora's
portraits on the WWW -- which are beautiful, but less than rewarding
even on a good day), about our dear "role model." and have had little
or no other luck.
     So I asked our experts in residence at the UPEI library, and they
have not been able to turn over a leaf, page or a stone that would be
of any help to me.
     And since I don't wish to keep anything longer than it takes me
to read it (assuming it is in English or they have lots of
illustrations,) I'm wondering if I should book passage to Italy!!
(lovely thought that!! Ummm? but not today.)
     Could someone please help me with my quest? Many thanks for all
help. By the way, the library experts here checked with the Dal
Library, and could only find information about a Medici wedding in
1589....and apparently that is published in Italian.
      SIGH.. sometimes I long for the big city, bright lights AND
access to an extensive library facility.
      Meanwhile back to "overseeing the warp of me mind."

Best wishes to everyone,
Sandra Ireland (...Eluned D'Ante of Afon)

Greetings!

It would seem as though this list got off to a fair start and then
fizzled mightily! I hope that it wasn't something I said! Well, since I
am the list administrator, I guess it's up to me to get it back on the
go.

As many of you know, I was working on a research project for Port
Royal, the French Habitation in Annapolis Royal, here in Nova
Scotia.

This is the oldest historical reconstruction in North America
(meaning that it was reconstructed first, in 1936), and was
originally built between 1605 and 1608 by Champlain and his
buddies. I will try to get some photos scanned onto the web page
in the Spring so that you can all see this wonderful building. It is
cute as a button!

I spent over a month trying to find out what French "gentlemen"
would have been wearing during those years, and boy was it hard!
In the end I had to make a lot of assumptions based on a few hard-
wrung facts.

So, here's my question for all of you: in whatever subject you
research, have you ever come across a transitional period that
historians have glossed over (most 'good' books had less than a
paragraph about the period between 1590 and 1620), but which you
realized was well worth a whole chapter?

So, I guess that many of you are busy preparing for the EKU in
Rusted Woodlands. Since I expect to be chained to the sewing
room until the 14th of February (my hubby and I are involved in an
Eighteenth Century wedding that day) I won't be able to make it
down for that, so I want news!

And while I'm at it, does anyone have a really good source for
period-style lace? I have some ruffs to make, and am having a hard
time finding mail-order sources for reasonable-looking laces for the
turn of the 17th century.

Please write, and let us know what you all are doing!

Love

Francesca

Dearest Annastassja:

As I spoken to you in the past, I would like to meet with you, Catriona, Damiana
sometime in January, before EKU for brunch to discuss the Gilded Pearl.

Please put me on your agenda.

Love

Isabella

Hello all!

	 Here is an update to the EKU announcement (the one for February 6th in
Rusted Woodlands) I'd posted a while back.

	 I received the contact info for the new Chancellor of the University and
have updated our website but figured you might all like to have this now.

	 He is William the Alchemist and his e-mail address is
<jeffs@...>  He asks that people give him a preference for what time
they would like to teach if they have one.  Classes will probably run from
9:30AM to 4 or 5PM and there are 8 classrooms, so we need lots of folks to
teach.

	 Love to you all!
	 Annastassja

Greetings to you all.

	 I don't know if any of you have already heard this. I'm sorry to be the
bearer of sad tidings.

Love, Stassja

This came through on a historic costuming list I subscribe to:
******************************************************************
Dear Friends

I have just seen in Saturday's newspaper an announcement that Janet
Arnold "author of Patterns of Fashion, died suddenly at her home,
November 2nd 1988, aged 66".

I know there are people on this list who knew her and her work well, so
I will leave them to comment.  I know that everyone with an interest in
historical costume will feel her loss, and our thoughts will be with
those for whom it is a personal grief.
- --
Jean Waddie

Hi Meg! er, Francesca!

If you want, I can find out how much at least to my airport, (MacArthur), that
way you can stay with me!  (hint hint)

When was through there recently, the fares had dropped dramatically to about
(US$200 r/t) which is considerably less than my first few trips there.  Maybe if
we book far enough in advance we can get a good deal.  Tell me what you think.

Isabella

>>> Meg & Carlo Carignan <carlomeg@...> 11/03 9:14 AM >>>
From: Meg & Carlo Carignan <carlomeg@...>

Greetings, friends!

Margo Farnsworth wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Recently, when preparing for our last event, I had one of my first
> experiences of altering one of my patterns to fit someone else.  I am
> a fairly large size, 22, and I would guess her to wear about a size
> 8.  This was quite a distance to come in.  I started by taking
> measurements of her, altered the pattern, cut & sewed a mock-up, put
> it on her and fit from there.  I would really like to hear some of the
> other approaches/methods for fitting, maybe see a hands-on class at
> the next EKU.  I would like to see this cover general fitting, not
> just the appropriate fit/style for that time period.  This could even
> be a discussion with various people showing their methods.  I would
> like to see what other people are looking for when trying to get the
> "perfect fit".  I have a feeling that there are probably some general
> groups of people out there: those who are experts at this, people who
> know the basics but would like to learn more (me!), and people who
> have never done this and are possibly even intimidated at the thought
> (I definitely was!!).  I would like to know how others feel about this
> subject.
>
> Faoiltighearna

I would be glad to participate in the class, both as a student, and as a
teacher. I am by no means an expert at fitting, but my methods might
differ from those of others. Indeed, I was planning a class in draping a
sloper (what we in Canada call a basic block), and then another on
manipulating the sloper to produce period shapes. I was going to teach
this class at Ruantallan's EKU in May, but now it looks like there won't
be one (the event conflicted with an important one in Lyndhaven (New
Brunswick)). I would be keen on participating in such a class at
Pennsic, though.

I have also learned to draft basic blocks for men and women, and then
manipulate them to make period patterns (with help from scale diagrams
like those in Norah Waugh or Janet Arnold). Changing a pattern from one
size to another is problematic (as you've probably found), especially
when the size difference is substantial. I used to have to do that, too.
Now the process is much less intimidating, although I still have to gird
my loins to start a new pattern!

Anyway, a good suggestion. Oh, how expensive would it be to fly down
there for the EKU in February? Sigh

Francesca



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Visit the Gilded Pearl Website at
<http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/gpearl.htm>

Hi everyone!

Faoiltighearna wrote:
>> Recently, when preparing for our last event, I had one of my first
>> experiences of altering one of my patterns to fit someone else. ...I
would really like to hear some of the
>> other approaches/methods for fitting, maybe see a hands-on class at
>> the next EKU.  I would like to see this cover general fitting, not
>> just the appropriate fit/style for that time period.

Francesca replied:
>I would be glad to participate in the class, both as a student, and as a
>teacher.... I would be keen on participating in such a class at
>Pennsic, though.

	 A class on fitting would be fantastic! I'm a beginner in sewing and I
would love to see something on this. One thing I've found disturbing is
when I see someone in beautiful and elaborate garb that must've taken a
great deal of time, effort and money but it doesn't fit properly. Sometimes
I don't know if it's a matter of the wrong underpinnings or of the cut of
the garment. I try to figure this out in my head but that doesn't always
work. When I make something for myself, it's involved a lot of pinning,
trying on, and taking it apart. Mostly, I find I've made a lot of versions
of the same thing on my road to a good fit. I'm getting better (I hope) but
I'm sure I've been re-inventing the wheel and would love to see other
approaches.

	 A class like this would be super at the EKU but, yes, Pennsic would be a
fabulous place for this as well! We can use the EKU's as practice for the
Pennsic track.

>Changing a pattern from one
>size to another is problematic (as you've probably found), especially
>when the size difference is substantial.

	 I've been very lucky that most times when I've copied one of my patterns
for someone, they've been my size. Once I had to change the sleevehole and,
for another one, the girl was much smaller but for both of those cases,
Catriona was at hand. A fitting class would definitely be a Good Thing for
me.  ;)

>Anyway, a good suggestion. Oh, how expensive would it be to fly down
>there for the EKU in February? Sigh

	 Oh Francesca! I wish you lived closer.  :)   <sigh>

	 Love,
	 Stassja

Greetings, friends!

Margo Farnsworth wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Recently, when preparing for our last event, I had one of my first
> experiences of altering one of my patterns to fit someone else.  I am
> a fairly large size, 22, and I would guess her to wear about a size
> 8.  This was quite a distance to come in.  I started by taking
> measurements of her, altered the pattern, cut & sewed a mock-up, put
> it on her and fit from there.  I would really like to hear some of the
> other approaches/methods for fitting, maybe see a hands-on class at
> the next EKU.  I would like to see this cover general fitting, not
> just the appropriate fit/style for that time period.  This could even
> be a discussion with various people showing their methods.  I would
> like to see what other people are looking for when trying to get the
> "perfect fit".  I have a feeling that there are probably some general
> groups of people out there: those who are experts at this, people who
> know the basics but would like to learn more (me!), and people who
> have never done this and are possibly even intimidated at the thought
> (I definitely was!!).  I would like to know how others feel about this
> subject.
>
> Faoiltighearna

I would be glad to participate in the class, both as a student, and as a
teacher. I am by no means an expert at fitting, but my methods might
differ from those of others. Indeed, I was planning a class in draping a
sloper (what we in Canada call a basic block), and then another on
manipulating the sloper to produce period shapes. I was going to teach
this class at Ruantallan's EKU in May, but now it looks like there won't
be one (the event conflicted with an important one in Lyndhaven (New
Brunswick)). I would be keen on participating in such a class at
Pennsic, though.

I have also learned to draft basic blocks for men and women, and then
manipulate them to make period patterns (with help from scale diagrams
like those in Norah Waugh or Janet Arnold). Changing a pattern from one
size to another is problematic (as you've probably found), especially
when the size difference is substantial. I used to have to do that, too.
Now the process is much less intimidating, although I still have to gird
my loins to start a new pattern!

Anyway, a good suggestion. Oh, how expensive would it be to fly down
there for the EKU in February? Sigh

Francesca

Hi Monica

Count me in.

Isabella

>>> "monica e. spence" <monicaspence@...> 10/29 9:51 PM >>>
From: "monica e. spence" <monicaspence@...>

Greetings Maestra Francesca and Fellow Guild Members--

In response to Baroness Mistress Isabella of York's comment...

  I am thinking of doing a  2-3 hour class at the February EKU on the
construction, patterns, styles, partlets, etc.  on the "Eleonora" gown.  Is
anybody interested?  I have been studying and making this style of dress
for several years now and  it would be a major class on the subject. I just
want to know if anybody is interested before I  start in on the
preparations for it.

Take care.

In Service-

Catriona

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to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at http://www.onelist.com and
select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Visit the Gilded Pearl Website at
<http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/gpearl.htm>

Hello all,

Recently, when preparing for our last event, I had one of my first experiences
of altering one of my patterns to fit someone else.  I am a fairly large size,
22, and I would guess her to wear about a size 8.  This was quite a distance to
come in.  I started by taking measurements of her, altered the pattern, cut &
sewed a mock-up, put it on her and fit from there.  I would really like to hear
some of the other approaches/methods for fitting, maybe see a hands-on class at
the next EKU.  I would like to see this cover general fitting, not just the
appropriate fit/style for that time period.  This could even be a discussion
with various people showing their methods.  I would like to see what other
people are looking for when trying to get the "perfect fit".  I have a feeling
that there are probably some general groups of people out there: those who are
experts at this, people who know the basics but would like to learn more (me!),
and people who have never done this and are possibly even intimidated at the
thought (I definitely was!!).  I would like to know how others feel about this
subject.

Faoiltighearna

Okay, so now I'm all jealous!!! Hmmm - driving South in February...if
only New Brunswick wasn't such a snowy place (at least, parts of it)!

I hope you all have heaps of fun - really!

Francesca

I will tentatively say "yes".

Faoiltighearna


-----Original Message-----
From: Heather L. Markle <hlmarkle@...>
To: gpearl@onelist.com <gpearl@onelist.com>
Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 11:50 AM
Subject: [gpearl] Re: EKU Classes in February


>From: hlmarkle@... (Heather L. Markle)
>
>>From: Annastassja Diaz de Leon <artistepeintre@...>
>>        Does anyone have a class on period hairstyles (including the "how
to")?
>>I'm personally interested in something like this especially if it can be
>>"faked" with hair that isn't all one length and to the waist. Mine is
>>almost to the waist but has some layering. I know there was an Italian
>>hairdressing class at Pennsic one year - and I think it included
>>information on incorporating hairpieces - but I missed it.
>>
>>        Anybody else have class ideas?
>>
>>        Stassja
>
>That was taught by our own Faoiltighearna. I missed the class too (it was
>taught during the first week of Pennsic). Maybe we could ask her to do a
>repeat?
>
>Heather L Markle (hlmarkle@...)
>
>Catalina D'Oro
>
>I myself have never been able to find out precisely what feminism is;
>I only know that people call me a feminist whenever I express sentiments
>that differentiate me from a doormat.~ Rebecca West (1913)
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Did you ever want to participate in video chats, send real-time video
>and video mail? Now you can, AND at a super low price--ONLY $89.95!
>http://orders.xoom.com/zvc/emzvc921
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<http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/gpearl.htm>
>

At 12:40 PM 10/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
>From: hlmarkle@... (Heather L. Markle)
>
>>From: Annastassja Diaz de Leon <artistepeintre@...>
>>        Does anyone have a class on period hairstyles (including the "how
to")?
>....

>That was taught by our own Faoiltighearna. I missed the class too (it was
>taught during the first week of Pennsic). Maybe we could ask her to do a
>repeat?
>Catalina D'Oro

	 That would be very cool. I saw two ladies at Pennsic that year who had
gone to the class and they had some very neat hairdos (I literally kept
staring at them at the food court and finally approached them to ask how
they'd done that).

	 Oh Faoiltighearna.... are you still out there?  ;)

	 Love,
	 Stassja

>From: Annastassja Diaz de Leon <artistepeintre@...>
>        Does anyone have a class on period hairstyles (including the "how to")?
>I'm personally interested in something like this especially if it can be
>"faked" with hair that isn't all one length and to the waist. Mine is
>almost to the waist but has some layering. I know there was an Italian
>hairdressing class at Pennsic one year - and I think it included
>information on incorporating hairpieces - but I missed it.
>
>        Anybody else have class ideas?
>
>        Stassja

That was taught by our own Faoiltighearna. I missed the class too (it was
taught during the first week of Pennsic). Maybe we could ask her to do a
repeat?

Heather L Markle (hlmarkle@...)

Catalina D'Oro

I myself have never been able to find out precisely what feminism is;
I only know that people call me a feminist whenever I express sentiments
that differentiate me from a doormat.~ Rebecca West (1913)

Catriona writes:
> I am thinking of doing a  2-3 hour class at the February EKU on the
>construction, patterns, styles, partlets, etc.  on the "Eleonora" gown.  Is
>anybody interested?

	 Fabulous! That would be wonderful! Make sure you write the new new EKU
chancellor (William the Alchemist, if I recall correctly) and find out
about the scheduling though.

	 I don't know yet what to teach. Info has been pretty scarce (as well as
somewhat conflicting!) thus far on Renaissance dolls so I may have to do
something on painting instead.

	 Does anyone have a class on period hairstyles (including the "how to")?
I'm personally interested in something like this especially if it can be
"faked" with hair that isn't all one length and to the waist. Mine is
almost to the waist but has some layering. I know there was an Italian
hairdressing class at Pennsic one year - and I think it included
information on incorporating hairpieces - but I missed it.

	 Anybody else have class ideas?

	 Stassja

>From: "monica e. spence" <monicaspence@...>
Dame Catriona wrote:

> I am thinking of doing a  2-3 hour class at the February EKU on the
>construction, patterns, styles, partlets, etc.  on the "Eleonora" gown.  Is
>anybody interested?  I have been studying and making this style of dress
>for several years now and  it would be a major class on the subject. I just
>want to know if anybody is interested before I  start in on the
>preparations for it.
>

Me! ME! ME!ME!ME!ME!ME!ME!

PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESE!

(We have to make sure we have a track going so GP classes don't overlap.
Planning on doing a class on Italian Ren Cooking and Platina)

Heather L Markle (hlmarkle@...)

Catalina D'Oro

I myself have never been able to find out precisely what feminism is;
I only know that people call me a feminist whenever I express sentiments
that differentiate me from a doormat.~ Rebecca West (1913)

Greetings Maestra Francesca and Fellow Guild Members--

In response to Baroness Mistress Isabella of York's comment...

  I am thinking of doing a  2-3 hour class at the February EKU on the
construction, patterns, styles, partlets, etc.  on the "Eleonora" gown.  Is
anybody interested?  I have been studying and making this style of dress
for several years now and  it would be a major class on the subject. I just
want to know if anybody is interested before I  start in on the
preparations for it.

Take care.

In Service-

Catriona

Greetings friends!

Below is a preview of the announcement to appear in December's Pikestaff
for an upcoming EKU. Please set some time aside to prepare a class (if you
don't feel you have enough material for whole class by yourself, hook up
with someone else to teach two smaller classes in one slot) and let's get
the ball rolling for this event. :)

Love,
Stassja


East Kingdom University

The Royal Forest of Rusted Woodlands will again welcome scholars and
students alike to a winter session of the East Kingdom University on
February 6, AS XXXIII.  The site, thanks to the graciousness of the Barony
of Settmour Swamp, will be All Saints Regional School, Roseberry Street,
Phillipsburg, NJ 08865.  The site will open at 9:30 AM and close at 6:00
PM.  Anyone on site after that time has graciously offered to help with
cleanup.

Please contact William the Alchemist, Chancellor of the University
regarding teaching classes.  His contact information is in the front of
Pikestaff.

Fees for the day will be adults $6, children 14-6 $4 and children 5 and
under are free.  While no feast will be held, a delicious day board will be
open from noon until classes end.  Homemade sausages and hearty soup are
planned, so there should be no starving students.  Please direct any
culinary inquiries to the cuisinier, Pan Starzy Jan (John Bober) at 16
Koeck Road, Columbia, NJ 07832, (908)459-4724.

Please send reservations to the autocrat, Lady Isabeau d’Orleans (Jennifer
Anne Bober), at 332 MacArthur Avenue, Garfield, NJ 07026.  Make checks
payable to SCA Inc. – Rusted Woodlands.  While there is no feast, we still
need an idea of numbers for the day board.  As always, the only reservation
is a paid reservation:  please do not call and leave phone messages instead
of sending a reservation.  Lady Isabeau may be reached at (973)253-1259.
If you do not hear back from her in 3 or 4 days please try again.
(Room-mate is cute, but forgets messages sometimes!!!).  Merchants are
welcome, but must contact the autocrat before the event.

Greetings All!

Thanks to Dame Catriona for your suggestion re; Master Luke. Perhaps he
will sign on to this list (shameless plug) and make it easy for me! (I'm
afraid that, these days, if it isn't easy, and isn't already on the
schedule, it ain't happening!).

The aiglets that I made for my second "Eleanora-esque" garb were a
little different, in that I put them on points of black ribbon. I like
dangly things. They are what I would call semi-permanent in that if I
ever choose to destroy the gown (which is my tradition, I'm afraid), I
could scavenge the points with the aiglets intact (along with the
couched gold cord guards on black melton cloth, if I was so inclined).
If, however, I ever wanted to remove them from the points, they would
revert to a pile of gold and pearl beads and gold bead caps.

This would appear to have been a not-uncommon practice, if one takes
into account things like the "Burial Gown", with it's guards that might
have been cut out of a previous gown. I have frequently taken apart old
garb that is worn, or just boring, and scavenged the good bits. I am not
a wealthy woman, and am forced to economize where I can. I don't know if
this was a problem Elenora ever had, but why waste beautiful stuff?

There are other examples of this type of scavenging. One that leaps to
mind is a forepart that Janet Arnold examined, that is heavily pieced,
and which she suggests might have been cut from an old cloak. Why not?

My thanks again for the input. It is a pleasure always to share things
with you!

To my sweet friend Mistress Isabella; fear not! I will never make
private that which might be of any interest to the group at large! After
all, that's why we're here, isn't it? I suspect that folks will be
reluctant to write very long articles for this list, and rightfully so.
Perhaps Dame Catriona would consent to writing up instructions for the
partlets for the Web Page? Or, teaching such a class at Pennsic? Count
me in the class, for sure!

Beditime now! Fare well, friends.

Francesca

Not fair folks.  I want to know everything.  I want to learn too!

Isabella

>>> "monica e. spence" <monicaspence@...> 10/27 8:34 PM >>>
From: "monica e. spence" <monicaspence@...>

Greetings Maestra Francesca and fellow Guild Members!!

Just a quick post on your questions about 1605 and Eleonora's gowns...

First, on the 1605 stuff--  I would recommend that you contact Master Luke
Knowlton (The Peer formerly known as Mistress Freydis Ragnarsdottir)  Luke
and  M. Jehan du Lac and Lord Rodrick of Basing  are very knowledgeable
about that period  and if they can't help you, then they know folks that
can.

As for the partlets-- you are on the right track with your idea of leaving
out the shoulder seams.  I have done several of the partlets (called a
"bavari" in Italian.). They work best without the shoulder seams. Let me
know if you need more help via private email.

I did the" Rose Eleonora" and did the aglets. 70+  pair. Did you make them
practical or permanent? I sewed them in  for good. I wonder what the did
in period. Maybe they used them in other gowns, but it would take forever
to take them on and off a gown.
Have you ever noticed that her portrait dresses are all remarkably similar?
  This is yet another topic of discussion....

  Eleonora was a clothes horse.  They cut up her gowns after she died, for
the fabric and the jewels. Some legacy!

Take care one and all.

In Servive--
Catriona



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Greetings Maestra Francesca and fellow Guild Members!!

Just a quick post on your questions about 1605 and Eleonora's gowns...

First, on the 1605 stuff--  I would recommend that you contact Master Luke
Knowlton (The Peer formerly known as Mistress Freydis Ragnarsdottir)  Luke
and  M. Jehan du Lac and Lord Rodrick of Basing  are very knowledgeable
about that period  and if they can't help you, then they know folks that
can.

As for the partlets-- you are on the right track with your idea of leaving
out the shoulder seams.  I have done several of the partlets (called a
"bavari" in Italian.). They work best without the shoulder seams. Let me
know if you need more help via private email.

I did the" Rose Eleonora" and did the aglets. 70+  pair. Did you make them
practical or permanent? I sewed them in  for good. I wonder what the did
in period. Maybe they used them in other gowns, but it would take forever
to take them on and off a gown.
Have you ever noticed that her portrait dresses are all remarkably similar?
  This is yet another topic of discussion....

  Eleonora was a clothes horse.  They cut up her gowns after she died, for
the fabric and the jewels. Some legacy!

Take care one and all.

In Servive--
Catriona

Welcome, to all those who have subscribed thus far!

I read Dame Catriona's post with delight. Having been something of a
closet Eleanora wannabe (I've only made two gowns inspired by Eleanora's
portraits, and yearn to do more) I am thrilled to have a specialist to
learn from.

My biggest difficulty with replicating Eleanora's outfits thus far has
been with the partlets and cauls. I attempted to replicate her
lattice-work ones, with little success. I think I have the partlet
figured out (my error was in not putting in a shoulder seam, but trying
to do the whole thing in one piece), but the caul eludes me. Is it
really as smooth and free of gathers or other fullness as it appears in
the paintings? The way my mind works, I can only envision it made over a
form of the correct shape, but I haven't been able to get the correct
shape. Any hints would be gratefully recieved. I have purchased a
sufficient quantity of silver-gilt soutache to make them both, but am
stalled.

I would be happy to teach a class on making beaded aiglets, like those
Eleanora wore in her "Rose" portrait (my own name for it), which is
published in colour in "The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Costume" by those
two nice Czech ladies. There are some great pictures in that book,
although the text is a little argueable.

Similarly constructed aiglets can be seen in a portrait of Catherine
Parr on page 51 of Ashelford's "Visual History of Costume - the
Sixteenth Century". This method allows for infinite variation of algets
you can make yourself with ease (no more bolo tie ends!)

To dramtically change the subject:

I have recently been awarded a contract to produce five costumes for
'gentlemen' for the Habitation at Port Royal National Historical Site,
set in 1605-1613. This site was settled by Champlain and friends, and
was rebuilt to Champlain's plan in the 1930's, making it the first
historical site rebuilt in Canada.

I have done a reasonable amount of research, but have found that there
are few depictions of specifically French costume of this era included
in the standard texts. I have formed a theory that French art at this
period was mediocre, and that the French must have been stalled as far
as fashion goes, but I don't like to work from assumptions too much.

I intend to use the construction methods outline by Janet Arnold in her
"Patterns of Fashion" (gotta love her), but I would really like to feel
sure that the costumes I am making will be recognizably French if that
is possible.

The 'terms of reference' for this contract make it very clear that these
garments are expected to be 'fashionable'; they will be worn for special
occassions, and are not intended to be representative of what would have
been worn on the site every day. They are replacing costumes that were
made in 1979 (!!!) and that are styled for 1630(!). These costumes were
quite beautifully made, with real whalebone belly-pieces and good
authentic materials throughout, but the folks at the site have had a
nagging suspicion that they weren't period for the site (no kidding).

I am really excited about this contract, and I want to do the best job I
can, but I would like to know whether French costume of the period was
distinguishable from earlier (say, post 1590) French costume, or
concurrent English or Spanish dress.

I guess that what I'm asking for is confirmation that my thinking is on
track. I am suggesting:

Doublets: straight two-piece sleeves, flat wings (some may be paned),
straight front (at least one with a peascod if I get my way), tabbed
skirts, hand-made buttons (has anyone documentation for metal buttons at
this time?) lots of buttons, interior laceing, substantial padding and
stiffening, rows of narrow braid trim. I am dreaming of doing one in
pinked silk satin, but we'll see what the budget says!

Trunk-hose: large, full, moderately padded, with canions OR
Venetians: haven't found any really good pictures of these yet for this
period.

Neckwear: at least one standing band, if I can get the money for it;
small to moderate falling bands, those multiple-layer soft ruffs,
turned-up cuffs edged with good lace.

Hats: no specific info on this period, was thinking about tall, rounded
crowns with various sizes of brims, some curled up all around

Does this sound right to you all? I will have only so much influence on
their choice of shoes and other accessories (I suggested that these men
would probably all be carrying swords!), and we haven't really discussed
the details yet. Any little hints would be appreciated, although at this
stage I feel I need moral support more than anything.

I read one period source (published in a modern book; Waugh, I think)
that suggests that French men at this time, being between wars,
considered fashion a bit frivolous, and tended to be toned-down in their
use of silks and trimmings, so I expect to make most of these outfits
out of wool, rather than silk, although I would like to make at least
one silk one (selfish, ain't I?) I also suggested that some of the more
'adventurous' characters might wear some armour bits (shameless plug for
my husband, the professional armourer!). I am sorry if I am rambling a
bit, but I am at the nebulous stage.

I have submitted an information package, with references to Waugh,
Arnold, Boucher, Ashelford, Cummings, and a couple of obscure French
sources for militaria, and now I have to wait for them to tell me if
they want to pay for more research, or just go with what I have given
them.

I just want to start shopping and cutting!!! Anyway, any help would be
appreciated, especially good paintings. I have already done some
research on the history of the site, but since these costumes are
primarily intended for generic 'fancy' men, to grab attention at special
events, I suspect I wasted some time there (although it was
fascinating).

Enough! You'll all hear more about this project as it progresses. Thanks
for letting me bend your ears about it.

A Suo servizio

Francesca

Greetings to all those who read these words from Dame Catriona Mairghread
nic Dhuibh of Moray!

Fellow Guildmembers:

I am SO happy that you took the time and trouble to make this page
available, Francesca!  This is wonderful!  What a wonderful way to keep in
contact with us all ! I can't say enough good things about this!!

But let me introduce myself to all of you...  I am Catriona, and have been
involved in the Guild since it's inception 7 years ago. I started as a
Deputy (regional ) Guildmistress, then was elected to the Council  (then
called "the Board) and then I was selected as the third Guildmistress. I
followed Baroness Mistress Isabella of York and Maestra Damiana Illaria
D'Onde in this position.Mistress Annastassja is my successor.  :-)

I am a "garb Laurel"-- that is , my first love is clothing. I was awarded a
  Manche  for  patternmaking and costuming. I was giver a  Laurel  for
teaching and garb.   (I do the clothing thing  for a living, too. I design
and do patternmaking for a  children's clothing company.) I have done a lot
of garb and for a lot of periods for other  people, but  stick to 16th
Century English and Italian  Court Fashions for  myself and my husband. He
even wears codpieces!  I seem to have made a career out of making  Eleonora
of Toledo's gowns from various portraits. If anyone wants to do a class on
this style of dress, just ask me. I  might never  stop talking about it!

I have a real love for Eleonora  of Toledo and Cosimo I de Medici-- which
is lucky for me since our next event centers around them!! I hope to get a
bibliography of books on the subject together for the Guild's Web page ASAP
  (Really! I promise, Annastassja!!!!!). These books are all from my
personal  library, so I can evaluate their usefulness without  too much
trial and error for the Guildmembers!

The main thing is to get the word out there about the Guild. It is FUN!!
Research does not have to be dry and boring.  We have a great time sharing
information with each other and want you to join us. You don't have to be a
Laurel, a Manche or have any awards to join this group on- line If you love
the Renaissance and all its facets, then, sign onto the list and speak up.
We would love to have you!!

In Service to the Guild  and the Society, I Remain Yours--
Catriona

Greetings, fellow Pearlies!

I am so glad to see folks joining the list. I must admit to having an
ulterior motive for setting this thing up; I am soooo far away from you
all, that this is the only way I can get to know everyone. I hope that
all the guild members will sign up!

I would be very glad if everyone would introduce themselves when they
first get around to it. Since I have met only a few of you, and don't
know much even about the ones I have met, it would be a great kindess.

I'll start!

I am Maestra Francesca della L'Aura di Firenze. I am a Florentine,
daughter of a textile merchant, living around 1490. (I do some
time-travelling for garb, but almost only Italian.) My first marriage,
at a fairly late age (20ish) ended with the abrupt death of my much
older husband. In the intervening years (while everyone argued over my
dowery) I met and fell in love with an Englishman. Anyone who would like
the story of how we fooled my father into allowing us to marry, should
ask privately (it's a little long, but it's good!).

I have a Maunche in Calligraphy and Illumination, but my Laurel is in
Costuming (mostly for teaching). I recieved my Laurel from Balfar and
Luna, in the November of their last reign.

I am interested in the Gilded Pearl for various reasons. I like the idea
of having a focus for research; otherwise, I just browse. I also like
the idea of sharing information and learning from all the other folk who
participate in any branch of the study of the Renaissance.

I have been in the SCA in Ruantallan (Nova Scotia and Prince Edward
Island) for a little over 12 years. So, enough about me.

I am no help on the kielbasa front; this is a Polish sausage, no?
Perhaps Polish recipes would be the answer.

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd has a photo of the only 16th century
doll I have ever seen, as well as the famous "Arabella Stuart" portrait
with the doll (pick the doll in this picture!).

An earlier reference is available in "Women, Family and Ritual in
Renaissance Italy" by Christine Klapisch-Zuber (University of Chicago
Press, 1985), Chpater 14 - "Holy Dolls: Play and Piety in Florence in
the Quattrocento".
pg 311  "A scholar of the last century, Giuseppe Marcotti, noted that a
"'bambino' (a child doll) with a damask dress embroidered with pearls"
figured in the wedding trouseau of the young Nannina Medici, sister of
Lorenzo the Magnificent in 1466."

Ms. K-Z goes on to say that the ricordanze that she examined, dated
between 1450 and 1520 occassionally include dolls in inventories of
trouseaux, and also to young nuns! The author describes these dolls as
'boy babies', often richly dressed, but sometimes in more simple
garments, befitting "Our Lord". These were definitely NOT fashion dolls,
but were playthings with religious significance. I am really hoping that
Eleanora recieved at least one of these dolls, because it is my
intention to make one for the event, and perhaps to raffle it off for
the Regalia fund, or the Travel fund.

I won't go on about this here, but I urge anyone interested in the
details of 15th and early 16th century Florentine life to read this
book. It is fascinating!

A Suo servizio,

Francesca

Hi Again!

You might try looking at costume references, since dolls were used to
transmit info on changing fashions.  I know it's not really very
specific info, but i beleive the old dolls wer given to children as
toys - thus the pictures of little girls holding dolls in slightly to
very out-of-date clothing...

Very busy at work, but I really love the mailing list idea!!!

Dorren




---Annastassja Diaz de Leon <artistepeintre@...> wrote:
>
> From: Annastassja Diaz de Leon <artistepeintre@...>
>
> Hello everyone!
>
>  Wow! This is wonderful! I hope everyone in the guild takes
advantage of
> this  so we can all keep in touch and exchange info. Thank you Maestra
> Francesca!
>
>  Hey, Faoiltighearna! Sorry, no period kielbasa recipes or info from
me. ;)
>
>  Here's my question. Does anyone have any information on dolls of
the 16th
> century? I have found very few references in some books I've
borrowed but
> nothing really helpful. I'm more interested in what would've been a
higher
> quality lady doll given to a noble child. Play dolls for poorer
children
> seemed to have been everything from fabric to a stick or bone
dressed up.
>
>  Well, it's off to the library for me! Have to find the book on
Cosimo and
> Eleonora's wedding as well as a book on Bronizino.
>
>  Oh!!! Before I forget, speaking of books..... For any of you who,
like me,
> has been searching for a copy of the Tailor's Pattern Book by Juan de
> Alcega facsimile, a very sweet lady, Katerina Arondel, sent me a note
> telling me it is available though only in the UK. It can be ordered,
> however, via the Internet bookshop. Here's the URL for the search I
did:
>
> http://www.bookshop.co.uk/ser/serdsp.asp?shop=1&isbn=0903585065&DB=220
>
>  Prices on this website are in English pounds so you'll have to
determine
> the current exchange rate to see what it would be in dollars. It's
> *roughly* around $60 plus shipping charges.
>
>  So, yes, it's a bit of an expensive venture but still, something to
think
> about. Maybe something for a Holiday wishlist.  ;)
>
>  So who else is out there on this list?  Come out and say hello. :)
>
>  Annastassja
>
>
>
>
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> Known in the SCA as Mistress Annastassja Diaz de León
>
> The Gilded Pearl
>  ................
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/gpearl.htm
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>
>
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> To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription
> to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at http://www.onelist.com and
> select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left.
>

Hello everyone!

	 Wow! This is wonderful! I hope everyone in the guild takes advantage of
this  so we can all keep in touch and exchange info. Thank you Maestra
Francesca!

	 Hey, Faoiltighearna! Sorry, no period kielbasa recipes or info from me. ;)

	 Here's my question. Does anyone have any information on dolls of the 16th
century? I have found very few references in some books I've borrowed but
nothing really helpful. I'm more interested in what would've been a higher
quality lady doll given to a noble child. Play dolls for poorer children
seemed to have been everything from fabric to a stick or bone dressed up.

	 Well, it's off to the library for me! Have to find the book on Cosimo and
Eleonora's wedding as well as a book on Bronizino.

	 Oh!!! Before I forget, speaking of books..... For any of you who, like me,
has been searching for a copy of the Tailor's Pattern Book by Juan de
Alcega facsimile, a very sweet lady, Katerina Arondel, sent me a note
telling me it is available though only in the UK. It can be ordered,
however, via the Internet bookshop. Here's the URL for the search I did:

http://www.bookshop.co.uk/ser/serdsp.asp?shop=1&isbn=0903585065&DB=220

	 Prices on this website are in English pounds so you'll have to determine
the current exchange rate to see what it would be in dollars. It's
*roughly* around $60 plus shipping charges.

	 So, yes, it's a bit of an expensive venture but still, something to think
about. Maybe something for a Holiday wishlist.  ;)

	 So who else is out there on this list?  Come out and say hello. :)

	 Annastassja




<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Known in the SCA as Mistress Annastassja Diaz de León

The Gilded Pearl
  ................ http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/gpearl.htm
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Hello to all who have subscribed so far!  This is a great new thing.

I have been trying to find a period or even renaissance recipe for kielbasa.  I
have searched the net and found all sorts of wonderful sites with various period
sausage recipies, but no kielbasa.  Does anyone know where I can find a period
recipe for this, or does anyone know if kielbasa is an invention of the 20th
century?

Faoiltighearna
(aka Margo)