Linda,

I have understood that photos should be saved in a *tif format, as there are
less losses and better detail.  The photos are larger, but they do contain
detail information.  Scan them to the highest setting that is reasonable (I
usually use 300 dpi; I'd use larger, but the file size becpmes unwieldy).  Some
photos I scan as both *tif and *jpg, because *jpg is the accepted format for
posting on the internet.

Good luck,
Mary Lee

--- In genphoto@yahoogroups.com, "wrap_lady" <lindad406@...> wrote:
>
> Susan,
>
> We must be working on the same type of project.
>
> I want to ask if anyone has used the PHOTOMAKER converter?  I have 100's of
slides from my Father and would love to have them so that I can easily share
them with other family member.
>
> Also should they be saved as JPEG or TIFF.....I always get confused as to
which is best.
>
> Linda
>
> --- In genphoto@yahoogroups.com, Susan Farmer <sfarmer@> wrote:
> >
> > So I've got a "normal" flat-bed scanner (i.e., no transparency lid/adaptor).
> >
> > Has anybody ever tried scanning negatives by placing a mirror behind
> > them on the scanner glass?  How does that work?
> >
> > Susan
> > -----
> > Susan Farmer
> > sfarmer@
> > Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
> > Division of Science and Math
> > http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >
>

Quoting wrap_lady <lindad406@...>:

> Susan,
>
> We must be working on the same type of project.
>
> I want to ask if anyone has used the PHOTOMAKER converter?  I have
> 100's of slides from my Father and would love to have them so that I
>  can easily share them with other family member.
>
> Also should they be saved as JPEG or TIFF.....I always get confused
> as to which is best.
>

.tif -- and if you're editing pics -- save all intermediate steps as
.tif and convert at the end.  The .jpg format is one that assumes that
there are details that are too small for your eye to see and *it
throws them away* -- if you save a .jpg file enough times, the color
will shift, and it will look really crappy.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@...
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

Susan,

We must be working on the same type of project.

I want to ask if anyone has used the PHOTOMAKER converter?  I have 100's of
slides from my Father and would love to have them so that I can easily share
them with other family member.

Also should they be saved as JPEG or TIFF.....I always get confused as to which
is best.

Linda

--- In genphoto@yahoogroups.com, Susan Farmer <sfarmer@...> wrote:
>
> So I've got a "normal" flat-bed scanner (i.e., no transparency lid/adaptor).
>
> Has anybody ever tried scanning negatives by placing a mirror behind
> them on the scanner glass?  How does that work?
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@...
> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
> Division of Science and Math
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>

So I've got a "normal" flat-bed scanner (i.e., no transparency lid/adaptor).

Has anybody ever tried scanning negatives by placing a mirror behind
them on the scanner glass?  How does that work?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@...
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

Quoting Rhonda <rstarthistle@...>:

> On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 11:12 AM, <genphoto@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>>  I had a picture from the late 1800s to early 1900s that did weird things
>> on a scanner besides the fact that it was too big. I used my digital camera
>> and took a picture of it outside. I've found pics done that way seem to work
>> best in light shade although I've only done black and whites that way
>> including some WWII era.

Hmmm.  I hadn't considered that option.  I do have a copy stand here
too.  Thanks!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@...
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 11:12 AM, <genphoto@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>  I had a picture from the late 1800s to early 1900s that did weird things
> on a scanner besides the fact that it was too big. I used my digital camera
> and took a picture of it outside. I've found pics done that way seem to work
> best in light shade although I've only done black and whites that way
> including some WWII era.
> 2.   newer Old Pictures
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/genphoto/message/2888;_ylc=X3oDMTJxMWUwa2VsBF9TAz\
k3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE0NzQ3MDEEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQwODM3BG1zZ0lkAzI4ODgEc2VjA2Rtc2\
cEc2xrA3Ztc2cEc3RpbWUDMTI1MDk1Mzk0Mg--> Posted
> by: "Susan Farmer" sfarmer@...
> <sfarmer@...?Subject=+Re%3Anewer%20Old%20Pictures>   baker_farmer
> <http://profiles.yahoo.com/baker_farmer>  Fri Aug 21, 2009 6:15 pm (PDT)
>
> as we probably all know, Kodacolor II was a fiasco -- it faded way to
> easy. I've got older color prints that are still in good shape.
>
> So I want to scan these photos (and do some color correction). The
> problem, however, is the paper. It's that really *rough* textured
> paper that produces interesting artifacts when scanned. Does anybody
> have a suggestion for scanning that paper with minimal garbage?
>
> Has anybody ever tried scanning negatives with a "normal" flatbed
> scanner using a mirror? (The scanner that I used to have access to
> had a transparency lid -- this one doesn't.) My thought is to place a
> mirror over the negative and scan it. Anybody tried that? How do you
> scan your negatives?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@... <sfarmer%40goldsword.com>
> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
> Division of Science and Math
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>   Back to top <#12342aa58dd43dea_toc>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

as we probably all know, Kodacolor II was a fiasco -- it faded way to
easy.  I've got older color prints that are still in good shape.

So I want to scan these photos (and do some color correction).  The
problem, however, is the paper.  It's that really *rough* textured
paper that produces interesting artifacts when scanned.  Does anybody
have a suggestion for scanning that paper with minimal garbage?

Has anybody ever tried scanning negatives with a "normal" flatbed
scanner using a mirror?  (The scanner that I used to have access to
had a transparency lid -- this one doesn't.)  My thought is to place a
mirror over the negative and scan it.  Anybody tried that?  How do you
scan your negatives?

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@...
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

Carla, have you tried contacting the local historical society & public library
local history library?  There may be a city directory that would list your
photographer.

http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~vaschs2/index.htm
http://genealogytrails.com/vir/scott/
http://vagenweb.org/scott/

Stacye in Virginia

--- In genphoto@yahoogroups.com, "Krista" <khillman@...> wrote:
>
> I have quite a few negatives from the 1940's that I recently acquired from my
grandmother.  They were just stuck here and there.  I would like to know the
best solution for storing them.  Any suggestions?
>
Use archival, P.A.T.-tested products such as those found at
www.lightimpressionsdirect.com or other quality archival storage product
sellers.

You can either carefully slide them into poly sleeves or use the negative
envelopes (I would prefer envelopes).  Store them separately from prints, in
either an archival file or box.  First, so that you don't have negatives and any
matching prints in the same place (should something happen to that storage box
or area) and second because there could be a reaction between the two and cause
degradation.

Brina Bolanz
www.restoredstories.com

I have quite a few negatives from the 1940's that I recently acquired from my
grandmother.  They were just stuck here and there.  I would like to know the
best solution for storing them.  Any suggestions?

I have digitized ten lantern slides I discovered in the Dallmeyer archive.

http://www.samackenna.co.uk/wetplate/lanternslides/lantern_slides.html

I believe that the ten slides contain photos taken at two different periods in
the late nineteenth century, those featuring workers wearing wing collars being
taken some years later than those wearing soft collars.

I would be grateful for any comments about this series of lantern slides.

Seán MacKenna

What is this all about?  Who are these people?


In a message dated 6/8/2009 10:43:29 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
lindad406@... writes:










Good Morning Everyone,

Cara and Anthony will be  moving to Brooklyn the end of the month where she
will be starting her  second year Residence. They found a great apartment
but now Anthony has to  find a job. He is waiting to hear from Columbia
University..University..<WBR>..he went  back on second and third intervi
saying a little prayer  that he gets this job. If he doesn't get a job
before the end of the month,  Cara will have to move to N.Y. and he will
have
to stay in Philly. They  will need both incomes to make ends meet. Since
they won't be able to keep  both apartment he may have to bunk in at
Cassie's
place until he can get a  job. This is of course is doable, but isn't what
anyone wants.

I  know that this isn't way up there on the list of prayer priorities, but
if
you could just send along a small prayer that would be so wonderful.

Anthony is a very smart young man, but right now there are over  100
applicants for every job out there, not a great time to hunting for a  job,
ugh!!!

Thank you,

Linda





[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Good Morning Everyone,

Cara and Anthony will be moving to Brooklyn the end of the month where she
will be starting her second year Residence.  They found a great apartment
but now Anthony has to find a job.  He is waiting to hear from Columbia
University....he went back on second and third interviews so we are all
saying a little prayer that he gets this job.  If he doesn't get a job
before the end of the month, Cara will have to move to N.Y. and he will have
to stay in Philly.  They will need both incomes to make ends meet.  Since
they won't be able to keep both apartment he may have to bunk in at Cassie's
place until he can get a job.  This is of course is doable, but isn't what
anyone wants.

I know that this isn't way up there on the list of prayer priorities, but if
you could just send along a small prayer that would be so wonderful.

Anthony is a very smart young man, but right now there are over 100
applicants for every job out there, not a great time to hunting for a job,
ugh!!!

Thank you,

Linda





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello:
Do any one out there use Power Point 2007? I would like to know before I
purchase it if you can make slide shows on CD's or DVD's with music?
Thank you,
Harry

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's a very interesting article on the subject:
http://www.andromeda.com/people/ddyer/photo/slide-transfer.html



I personally don't scan enough negatives or slides to justify a specific
piece of equipment.  My method is not especially fast.

Martha



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

GenphotoCan you also scan slides with it?  If not, what do you use for them?  I
need something faster than my scanner, which will do 3 slides at a time.  It's
very slow and then I also have to crop each scan.

Linda

Re: Digital negative scanner
Posted by: "marthagkelly" marthakelly@...   marthagkelly
Sun Feb 8, 2009 2:22 pm (PST)
My Canon CanoScan LiDE 600F scanner does a great job with all sizes of
old negatives. I have even scanned 16MM movie film and printed
individual frames as stills.
Martha


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks, Bryan.
I did get the manual out and checked and found that evidently I had it
set to the "burst" mode.  The button to change that is not in the menu, it
is on top of the camera.  I had gone through all the settings in the menu
and could not resolve it.  But now I think I have it figured out.
Pat
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Bryan Logan
   To: genphoto@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:51 PM
   Subject: Re: [genphoto] Another question re: camera


   I'm not familar with that particular model, but it sound like you have it set
in a continuous advance mode or for it to bracket your exposures. In continuous
advance ("drive")mode, it will fire off a number of exposures as long as you
have the shutter button depressed. In a bracket you should be able to see some
difference in the exposures (normal, darker, lighter). Check your manual and see
how each of these settings are configured.

   HTH,

   Bryan
   <bvlogan@...>
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Pat Baber
   To: genphoto@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:33 PM
   Subject: [genphoto] Another question re: camera

   Thanks for all your replies about scanning negatives.
   I have another question which may or may not be relative to this list.
   I have a Panasonic Lumix camera. It's a great camera, but evidently
   I have changed a setting somewhere and can't figure it out. Every time
   I take a picture, it takes two or sometimes three pictures just alike. Do any
   of you know what setting would cause this to happen? I take a lot of pictures,
   as many as 200 a week and having to delete the dupicates is a nuisance.
   Thanks again,
   Pat Baber

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm not familar with that particular model, but it sound like you have it set in
a continuous advance mode or for it to bracket your exposures.  In continuous
advance ("drive")mode, it will fire off a number of exposures as long as you
have the shutter button depressed.  In a bracket you should be able to see some
difference in the exposures (normal, darker, lighter).  Check your manual and
see how each of these settings are configured.

HTH,

Bryan
<bvlogan@...>
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Pat Baber
   To: genphoto@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:33 PM
   Subject: [genphoto] Another question re: camera


   Thanks for all your replies about scanning negatives.
   I have another question which may or may not be relative to this list.
   I have a Panasonic Lumix camera. It's a great camera, but evidently
   I have changed a setting somewhere and can't figure it out. Every time
   I take a picture, it takes two or sometimes three pictures just alike. Do any
   of you know what setting would cause this to happen? I take a lot of pictures,
   as many as 200 a week and having to delete the dupicates is a nuisance.
   Thanks again,
   Pat Baber

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for all your replies about scanning negatives.
I have another question which may or may not be relative to this list.
I have a Panasonic Lumix camera.   It's a great camera, but evidently
I have changed a setting somewhere and can't figure it out.  Every time
I take a picture, it takes two or sometimes three pictures just alike.  Do any
of you know what setting would cause this to happen?  I take a lot of pictures,
as many as 200 a week and having to delete the dupicates is a nuisance.
Thanks again,
Pat Baber

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My Canon CanoScan LiDE 600F scanner does a great job with all sizes of
old negatives.  I have even scanned 16MM movie film and printed
individual frames as stills.
Martha
>

Thanks for the info.  I was trying to avoid buying a new printer/scanner, but
that may
be my only option.  The one I have is only a couple of years old, but does not
have
the capability to scan negatives.
Pat
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Ruth Harvey
   To: genphoto@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 2:25 PM
   Subject: Re: [genphoto] Digital negative scanner


   Hi Pat:

   I have hundreds of old various sized negatives. I have scanned them all
   quite successfully on my Epson 4870 (now dead) and my new Epson V500.
   They have a light in the lid for scanning negatives.

   Regards,
   Ruth in NC





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Pat:

I have hundreds of old various sized negatives.  I have scanned them all
quite successfully on my Epson 4870 (now dead) and my new Epson V500.
They have a light in the lid for scanning negatives.

Regards,
Ruth in NC

Has anyone found or used a scanner specifically for old negatives?
I can easily find scanners for 35mm negatives, but have not been
able to find one to scan the larger, older individual negatives.
I have triedscanning them on my regular flat-bed scanner, but did
not get as good results as I would like.
Thanks for any input.
Pat in VA

What you have may be the following:

Ambrotype

			 From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

									 Jump to: navigation, search




Many ambrotypes were made by unknown photographers, such as this
American example of a small girl holding a flower, circa 1860. Because
of their fragility ambrotypes were held in folding cases much like
those used for daguerreotypes






Anonymous "American Veteran with his Wife" c. 1860, Hand Tinted Ambrotype


The ambrotype process (from Greek ambrotos, "immortal") or amphitype is a
photographic process that creates a positive photographic image on a sheet of
glass using the wet plate collodion process. It was patented in 1854 by James
Ambrose Cutting of Boston, in the United States. The wet plate collodion process
was invented just a few years before that by Frederick Scott Archer, but Cutting
used it as a positive, instead of a negative.
In Great Britain it was called collodion positive: one side of a very clean
glass plate is covered with a thin layer of collodion,
then dipped in a silver nitrate solution. The plate is exposed to the
subject while still wet. (Exposure times vary from five to sixty
seconds or more depending on the amount of available light.) The plate
is then developed and fixed. The resulting negative, when viewed by
reflected light against a black background, appears to be a positive
image: the clear areas look black, and the exposed, opaque areas appear
light. This effect is achieved by coating one side of the glass
negative with black varnish.
Either the emulsion side or the blank side can be covered with the
varnish: when the blank side is blackened, the thickness of the glass
adds a sense of depth to the image. In either case, another plate of
glass is put over the fragile emulsion side to protect it, and the
whole is mounted in a metal frame and kept in a protective case. In
some instances the protective glass was cemented directly to the
emulsion, generally with a balsam resin. This protected the image well but
tended to make it darker.
The ambrotype was much less expensive to produce than the daguerreotype,
and it lacked the daguerreotype's shiny metallic surface, which some
found unappealing. By the late 1850s, the ambrotype was overtaking the
daguerreotype in popularity; by the mid-1860s, the ambrotype itself was
supplanted by the tintype and other processes.
Ambrotypes were often hand-tinted. Untinted ambrotypes are
grayish-white and have less contrast and brilliance than daguerreotypes.
Nancy


--- On Mon, 2/2/09, Lorette <tikibeau@...> wrote:
From: Lorette <tikibeau@...>
Subject: [genphoto] photos on glass
To: genphoto@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, February 2, 2009, 1:11 AM











             hi

 

found amongst a relatives estate  photos that have been printed onto glass,
(color of the glass - white)    A4 size

 

can anyone tell me about this method and perhaps date them. 

 

 

 

thank you

 

Lorette 



Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a look
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

According to Wikipedia:

Technicolor dye imbibition printing (AKA "dye transfer"): a stable
photolithographic system used for the creation of color prints,
originally conceived for the Technicolor format but also compatible
with standard monopack film. (1928–2002)



--- In genphoto@yahoogroups.com, "sailorsravinestudio"
<sailorsravinestudio@...> wrote:
>
> I posted a picture to Sailors Ravine Studio album.  I tried to find a
> date for this type of print but had no luck.  I'm guessing the '70's
> any ideas?
>

hi
 
found amongst a relatives estate  photos that have been printed onto glass,
(color of the glass - white)    A4 size
 
can anyone tell me about this method and perhaps date them. 
 
 
 
thank you
 
Lorette 


       Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a
look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I posted a picture to Sailors Ravine Studio album.  I tried to find a
date for this type of print but had no luck.  I'm guessing the '70's
any ideas?

My experience and from what I have read, one of the best ways to tell the
boys from the girls when they are young and since the boys often had on
"dresses" up to a certain age, is how the hair was parted.  Girls nearly 
exclusively
had their hair parted in the middle and boys nearly exclusively had  their
hair parted on the side.

I'd be happy to look at a scan of the photo if you email it to me to try to
give a better idea.  You may want to consult a book called "Dressed for the
Photographer" by Joan Severa.  You could probably find it in a local  library.

Lisa Harley
Southern Ca


In a message dated 11/30/2008 2:32:37 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
gloria@... writes:




Hello:
I have just joined the list. I would appreciate help in dating a
photo of 2 little children. It looks like a little girl and a little
boy of about 18 mos. to 2 years of age. One child has a drop waist
dress with a pleated skirt extending between the knees and ankles. The
shoes look like they are the button up type that go just above the
ankle. The other child has a shirt with a sailor collar in a darker
color. The 'skirt' appears to be the type often worn by young boys in
the late 1800's to early 1900's. The shoes have 3 straps: one over the
top of the foot and 2 across the ankle.
This is an outside photo,  taken at a home, not in a studio. Since I
only have a copy of the photo, I  don't know what the format of the photo
was originally.
There were  twins in the family in the mid 1870's, so perhaps these
clothing styles  might be representative of that era?
Thank you for your  assistance.
Gloria




**************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW
AOL.com.
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello:
     I have just joined the list.  I would appreciate help in dating a
photo of 2 little children.  It looks like a little girl and a little
boy of about 18 mos. to 2 years of age.  One child has a drop waist
dress with a pleated skirt extending between the knees and ankles.  The
shoes look like they are the button up type that go just above the
ankle.  The other child has a shirt with a sailor collar in a darker
color.  The 'skirt' appears to be the type often worn by young boys in
the late 1800's to early 1900's.  The shoes have 3 straps:  one over the
top of the foot and 2 across the ankle.
     This is an outside photo, taken at a home, not in a studio.  Since I
only have a copy of the photo, I don't know what the format of the photo
was originally.
     There were twins in the family in the mid 1870's, so perhaps these
clothing styles might be representative of that era?
Thank you for your assistance.
Gloria

Quoting sailorsravinestudio <sailorsravinestudio@...>:

> I received an email today from someone who said they were with the
> genforum group and to click on his link to see his grouply web page.
> I did not click on the link because it seemed a little strange.
> However I also received grouply emails on some of my other yahoo
> groups and many people were warning that it is a phishing email and
> can do damage, others said it was rumor. However there was a message
> posted with one group member's yahoo email which she later posted to
> the group noting she had not sent it but had clicked on a grouply link
> earlier.  The email came directly to me not through the group.

Grouply *LOOKS* nice, but you have to give it your yahoo password and
ID.  Given some of the notes on Snopes.com, grouply then can archive
*ALL* postings on a Closed List.

If you're on Grouply, I can't suggest that you leave it strongly
enough.  You're giving a 3rd party access to not only your personal
information, but information about folks on this group.

IMO, Grouply is BAD NEWS.  (spoken as member, not moderator)

http://www.ncs-tech.org/?p=1146
http://message.snopes.com/showthread.php?p=508572

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@...
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/