Dear Rajuji (and other list members),

Normally I cut back the grass, weed a bit & sow my seed. However when
the rains come the grass and weeds seem to grow fast and my seed
doesnt seem to germinate. If I leave it like that wont the grass/weeds
shade my seeds? What should I do? Be patient? Or keep cutting back the
weeds/grass? Thats too much work :(

The other problem is many seedlings get attacked by snails, slugs,
pigeons or mice. Just as it is happy to see a seedling sprout, its
equally sad to see it taken away. My neighbours put netting around the
seedling to prevent these 'pests'. And its working. They have a row of
healthy looking runner bean seedlings. While mine is devoured. But it
is like growing crops in a jail! I dont want to do that. But it is
hard to hope that nature will balance all this. How to deal with this
disappointment? Do you have any suggestions. My way of coping with
this is to sow another seed.

Thanks.
SJ

SJ,

If  you put your seedlings in a row, they are prone to all suffering
from the same fate.  If you put your seedlings in an area with no other
growing plants, they will be targeted by pests.  If you plant just what
you need, that's not sharing with nature.

If you put your seedlings in a mixed growing environment with other
plants they are partially hidden.  If you grow many more than you need
there will be some left for you.  If you plant from seedballs they will
be protected until they get started.  If you plant into a standing crop
and cut the crop after yours gets started they will take off from the
increase in light and space.  If you put the litter from that cut crop
back over your plants as mulch they will be additionally protected.

The trick is to plant the right plants at the right time following the
right crop and cutting the overgrowth at the right time.  Don't expect
success every time and be prepared to have little success at first and
more as you figure out what works for you.  OK, this is hard when you
have to wait a year between experiments and you are hoping to eat your
plants after all that work.

Fukuoka had a kitchen garden as well as the farming fields.  I suspect
he had the same problems.

Steve

poojyum wrote:

>Dear Rajuji (and other list members),
>
>Normally I cut back the grass, weed a bit & sow my seed. However when
>the rains come the grass and weeds seem to grow fast and my seed
>doesnt seem to germinate. If I leave it like that wont the grass/weeds
>shade my seeds? What should I do? Be patient? Or keep cutting back the
>weeds/grass? Thats too much work :(
>
>The other problem is many seedlings get attacked by snails, slugs,
>pigeons or mice. Just as it is happy to see a seedling sprout, its
>equally sad to see it taken away. My neighbours put netting around the
>seedling to prevent these 'pests'. And its working. They have a row of
>healthy looking runner bean seedlings. While mine is devoured. But it
>is like growing crops in a jail! I dont want to do that. But it is
>hard to hope that nature will balance all this. How to deal with this
>disappointment? Do you have any suggestions. My way of coping with
>this is to sow another seed.
>
>Thanks.
>SJ
>

Greetings group,

This spring I have been blessed with some limited success in my natural
farming experiments.  The subject is biannuals.  In the past I always
dealt with plants as either perennials or as annuals and never really
thought about biannuals.  I don't know the official definition of a
biannual but for this discussion I mean those plants that will die back
in the fall and come back in the spring.  So in this category I include
spinach, kale, carrot, etc.  Organic gardeners are probably laughing now
because this has been known for a long time.  Well, knowing something
and actually experiencing it are two different things.

These crops give a great advantage to the natural farmer!  As usual the
discovery was accidental.  I planted a spinach crop last fall and it
didn't really have time to mature.  This spring it came back strong.
This is just the sort of thing we need to bridge the growing gap between
growing seasons.  For those of you in warmer climates, you might be
surprised to hear we can only grow crops about four months of the year
with any vigor and eight months a year for even the hardiest plants.

Now I love spinach.  I would say spinach is my favorite and to have
spinach for the daily salad makes me feel like a million bucks.  I can
just feel the vitamins coursing through my system.  The trouble with
spinach is it really wants to go to seed in the heat of the summer.  OK,
I say let it.  The cabbage family, kale, and carrots too.  Allowing this
more natural growth pattern means a plentiful supply of seeds produced
every year.  That's another thing I see as the mainstay of natural
farming is to figure out how to get things to reproduce and seed
themselves.  Unfortunately, the carrots will probably pollinate with the
native queen annes lace and I don't know what other problems will arise.

I had a similar experience a few years back with broccoli.  I planted it
in the spring with a number of other crops and it got swallowed up by
the more vigorous summer vegetables.  When these died back in the fall,
the broccoli came back strong and produced a wonderful crop at a time
when I never had broccoli before.  I also had similar experiences with
an accidental crop of fall peas.  Having not gotten to picking all of
the pea crop one summer, that fall I had a fresh pea crop in the fall
from the left over seed that spilled to the ground.

I am starting a new program this year to expand the variety of plants
that reseed themselves.  I will take a small area set aside for the
purpose and encourage all my favorite plants to reseed themselves.  I
will weed and transplant in new varieties.  The eventual goal being to
have an area that reseeds itself and grows like weeds.

I also have a new experiment making a burdock fence.  Burdock as anyone
knows who has it as a pernicious weed, makes a tall sturdy plant in its
second year covered with the prickliest, stickiest hitchhiker you can
imagine.  The deer in my area, the biggest four legged pest in the
garden,  seem to avoid burdock when ever possible.  So I figure to grow
it in perimeter rows and weave the stems together.  When the sticky seed
heads come out I may have created a monster that will be out of control,
but then again it already is so what's the worry.  Burdock seed, by the
way is a medicinal product as is the root.

I am also looking at other native and imported possible food products
that are already successful in my area.

Hello Steve,

Thank you for suggestions.

> If  you put your seedlings in a row, they are prone to all suffering
> from the same fate.

I dont put seedlings in a row. I sow seed at random - here and there.

>If you put your seedlings in an area with no other
> growing plants, they will be targeted by pests.  If you plant just
>what
> you need, that's not sharing with nature.

>
> If you put your seedlings in a mixed growing environment with other
> plants they are partially hidden.  If you grow many more than you
>need there will be some left for you.

My plot is full of so called 'weeds'. There was 1 area where I had dug
due to pressure from a fellow plot holder. I regret doing that. And
that area doesnt have too many plants. Unfortunately in that area my
seedlings are thriving!

I'm not planting only what I need. I dont even count how many seeds I
sow. I sow a lot. For example I sowed probably 50 broadbeans seeds
here and there. Of them about 10 have come up and 3 are standing
today. The 3 are eaten up here and there. I am happy for the 3 yes but
it seems they are there only because they have not been found by the
'pests' yet!

>If you plant from seedballs they will
> be protected until they get started.

With seedballs I have had very poor result. Probably its not the right
clay I dont know. I picked up clay from a molehill along the tracks I
cycle thru. It seemed soft, natural & local. I had 1 spinach, a couple
lettuce from seedballs.

>If you plant into a standing crop
> and cut the crop after yours gets started they will take off from the
> increase in light and space.  If you put the litter from that cut crop
> back over your plants as mulch they will be additionally protected.

When I sow a seed, I cut back on the grasses/'weeds' a bit & sow. If I
was transplanting a seedling, I cut back and as you suggest put it
back as mulch to hide them and to save some moisture.

>
> The trick is to plant the right plants at the right time following the
> right crop and cutting the overgrowth at the right time.  Don't expect
> success every time and be prepared to have little success at first and
> more as you figure out what works for you.  OK, this is hard when you
> have to wait a year between experiments and you are hoping to eat your
> plants after all that work.
>
> Fukuoka had a kitchen garden as well as the farming fields.  I suspect
> he had the same problems.
>
> Steve

Thank you for writing. I will keep experimenting.

Hi Steve,

Sounds good.
Any chance we can get some photos of your mixed planted beds?

Cheers,
Niels

Steven McCollough wrote:

> Greetings group,
>
> This spring I have been blessed with some limited success in my natural
> farming experiments.  The subject is biannuals.  In the past I always
> dealt with plants as either perennials or as annuals and never really
> thought about biannuals.  I don't know the official definition of a
> biannual but for this discussion I mean those plants that will die back
> in the fall and come back in the spring.  So in this category I include
> spinach, kale, carrot, etc.  Organic gardeners are probably laughing now
> because this has been known for a long time.  Well, knowing something
> and actually experiencing it are two different things.
>
> These crops give a great advantage to the natural farmer!  As usual the
> discovery was accidental.  I planted a spinach crop last fall and it
> didn't really have time to mature.  This spring it came back strong.
> This is just the sort of thing we need to bridge the growing gap between
> growing seasons.  For those of you in warmer climates, you might be
> surprised to hear we can only grow crops about four months of the year
> with any vigor and eight months a year for even the hardiest plants.
>
> Now I love spinach.  I would say spinach is my favorite and to have
> spinach for the daily salad makes me feel like a million bucks.  I can
> just feel the vitamins coursing through my system.  The trouble with
> spinach is it really wants to go to seed in the heat of the summer.  OK,
> I say let it.  The cabbage family, kale, and carrots too.  Allowing this
> more natural growth pattern means a plentiful supply of seeds produced
> every year.  That's another thing I see as the mainstay of natural
> farming is to figure out how to get things to reproduce and seed
> themselves.  Unfortunately, the carrots will probably pollinate with the
> native queen annes lace and I don't know what other problems will arise.
>
> I had a similar experience a few years back with broccoli.  I planted it
> in the spring with a number of other crops and it got swallowed up by
> the more vigorous summer vegetables.  When these died back in the fall,
> the broccoli came back strong and produced a wonderful crop at a time
> when I never had broccoli before.  I also had similar experiences with
> an accidental crop of fall peas.  Having not gotten to picking all of
> the pea crop one summer, that fall I had a fresh pea crop in the fall
> from the left over seed that spilled to the ground.
>
> I am starting a new program this year to expand the variety of plants
> that reseed themselves.  I will take a small area set aside for the
> purpose and encourage all my favorite plants to reseed themselves.  I
> will weed and transplant in new varieties.  The eventual goal being to
> have an area that reseeds itself and grows like weeds.
>
> I also have a new experiment making a burdock fence.  Burdock as anyone
> knows who has it as a pernicious weed, makes a tall sturdy plant in its
> second year covered with the prickliest, stickiest hitchhiker you can
> imagine.  The deer in my area, the biggest four legged pest in the
> garden,  seem to avoid burdock when ever possible.  So I figure to grow
> it in perimeter rows and weave the stems together.  When the sticky seed
> heads come out I may have created a monster that will be out of control,
> but then again it already is so what's the worry.  Burdock seed, by the
> way is a medicinal product as is the root.
>
> I am also looking at other native and imported possible food products
> that are already successful in my area.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>     *  Visit your group "fukuoka_farming
>       <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming>" on the web.
>
>     *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>        fukuoka_farming-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>       <mailto:fukuoka_farming-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
>     *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>

Thank you for your imput Steve, and welcome to the group.
I would like to hear more from you, and your natural gardening stories.

I mostly sit in an Ivory tower, learning from books and the web,
slowly gathering information, hoping someday to find the funds
to go homestead on my own,

my experiences though tell me about a couple of things not everyone knows

recently due to an early snow a couple years back, some parsnips and carrots
got left in the ground,
I had always heard about people doing this, but doughted the application in
my area.

I live in frigid North Dakota (technically zone 4, but practically zone 3
USDA).. gets down to about minus 30 degrees, frost down about 18 inches
sometimes more.

parsnips overwinter wonderfully, and gain sweetness, they will start to lose
firmness if you don't dig them and they sprout too much though, but up to
about 4 inches sprout is ok

carrots get eating by slugs and other bugs, loses over winter are 10-25%,
the carrots also don't store well once dug in the spring, they rapidly lose
firmness and often turn to mush.. at least in my area.. presumably if you
can dig through frozen ground before they break dormancy these problems
would vanish, but last time I tried this I broke the pick axe I was using.

Burdock and Jerusalum artichokes get woody and lose flavor if overwintered
Burdock will become pest.. but if you like eating the roots (gobo) then
you're good to go anyways

I'd like to know how cold it gets in your area Steve, that you had this
stuff overwinter

I"m having sucess with overwinting herbs (micro zone right next to house ..
) zone 5 oregano,thyme, terragon so far

walking onions, and salad burnet too,.. but I'm still working on finding a
suitable
overwinter/perrenial main course....

Jeff

ps anyone who hasn't, should look into the work THe Land Institute is doing
in Kansas
on perrenial crops (gains and psuedocereals).





>From: Steven McCollough <steb@...>
>Reply-To: fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com
>To: fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [fukuoka_farming] My crops this spring
>Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 14:39:31 -0400
>
>Greetings group,
>
>This spring I have been blessed with some limited success in my natural
>farming experiments.  The subject is biannuals.  In the past I always
>dealt with plants as either perennials or as annuals and never really
>thought about biannuals.  I don't know the official definition of a
>biannual but for this discussion I mean those plants that will die back
>in the fall and come back in the spring.  So in this category I include
>spinach, kale, carrot, etc.  Organic gardeners are probably laughing now
>because this has been known for a long time.  Well, knowing something
>and actually experiencing it are two different things.
>
>These crops give a great advantage to the natural farmer!  As usual the
>discovery was accidental.  I planted a spinach crop last fall and it
>didn't really have time to mature.  This spring it came back strong.
>This is just the sort of thing we need to bridge the growing gap between
>growing seasons.  For those of you in warmer climates, you might be
>surprised to hear we can only grow crops about four months of the year
>with any vigor and eight months a year for even the hardiest plants.
>
>Now I love spinach.  I would say spinach is my favorite and to have
>spinach for the daily salad makes me feel like a million bucks.  I can
>just feel the vitamins coursing through my system.  The trouble with
>spinach is it really wants to go to seed in the heat of the summer.  OK,
>I say let it.  The cabbage family, kale, and carrots too.  Allowing this
>more natural growth pattern means a plentiful supply of seeds produced
>every year.  That's another thing I see as the mainstay of natural
>farming is to figure out how to get things to reproduce and seed
>themselves.  Unfortunately, the carrots will probably pollinate with the
>native queen annes lace and I don't know what other problems will arise.
>
>I had a similar experience a few years back with broccoli.  I planted it
>in the spring with a number of other crops and it got swallowed up by
>the more vigorous summer vegetables.  When these died back in the fall,
>the broccoli came back strong and produced a wonderful crop at a time
>when I never had broccoli before.  I also had similar experiences with
>an accidental crop of fall peas.  Having not gotten to picking all of
>the pea crop one summer, that fall I had a fresh pea crop in the fall
>from the left over seed that spilled to the ground.
>
>I am starting a new program this year to expand the variety of plants
>that reseed themselves.  I will take a small area set aside for the
>purpose and encourage all my favorite plants to reseed themselves.  I
>will weed and transplant in new varieties.  The eventual goal being to
>have an area that reseeds itself and grows like weeds.
>
>I also have a new experiment making a burdock fence.  Burdock as anyone
>knows who has it as a pernicious weed, makes a tall sturdy plant in its
>second year covered with the prickliest, stickiest hitchhiker you can
>imagine.  The deer in my area, the biggest four legged pest in the
>garden,  seem to avoid burdock when ever possible.  So I figure to grow
>it in perimeter rows and weave the stems together.  When the sticky seed
>heads come out I may have created a monster that will be out of control,
>but then again it already is so what's the worry.  Burdock seed, by the
>way is a medicinal product as is the root.
>
>I am also looking at other native and imported possible food products
>that are already successful in my area.
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
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I recently found this helpful website in harveting and helping to promote the
growth for harvest of soil fungi for inclusion in seedballs.
http://www.sunseed.org.uk/page.asp?p=167

Compost should also be included in seedballs to be successful. The recipe for
seedballs (most probably know this) is at http://www.seedballs.com
David


---------------------------------
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starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> I also have a new experiment making a burdock fence.  Burdock as anyone
> knows who has it as a pernicious weed, makes a tall sturdy plant in its
> second year covered with the prickliest, stickiest hitchhiker you can
> imagine.  The deer in my area, the biggest four legged pest in the
> garden,  seem to avoid burdock when ever possible.  So I figure to grow
> it in perimeter rows and weave the stems together.  When the sticky
> seed
> heads come out I may have created a monster that will be out of
> control,
> but then again it already is so what's the worry.  Burdock seed, by the
> way is a medicinal product as is the root.

My goats would eat your fence down in a heartbeat... they LOVE burdock,
as do the sheep!!! Perhaps the deer will, too :-).

>
> I am also looking at other native and imported possible food products
> that are already successful in my area.

I'm taking account of what we have growing here, too (also in the UP).
We have elderberry, gooseberries, currants, honeysuckle, service
berries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, thimble
berries, crab apples, apples and filberts. Of course, lots of the
berries are small and hard to beat the animals to, but some, like the
service berries, are quite prolific... I'd like to work on ways of
getting better crops from some of the existing plants. As for wild
veggies, we have trout lilies, dandelion, burdock (as you mentioned),
white campion, mustard, ox-eye daisy greens, lamb's quarters, sorrel,
lady's thumb, dock, queen anne's lace, chickweed and more. I've
discovered that sap isn't just for syrup, and drinking sap straight is
the best spring tonic I've ever had. The fermented sap was good, too.
Besides the maple trees, we also have yellow birch that provide sap.
Then there's mushrooms.. I've heard the morels are to be found around
here, but haven't spotted any myself yet. And medicinal herbs.. St.
John's Wort and Horsetail. I'm pretty sure I spotted Golden Seal in the
National Forest. It's a great place to be!!

Thanks for sharing, Steven.
Meg

Hello everyone
This is Miguel from Ecuador,I am very interested in letting my
plants to reseed by themselfs, and now my doughts are how to let
this occur naturally, because here there are not harsh winters
(there is not snow) and  when the plants go to seed most of it will
be eaten by birds,so might it be better to make seedballs.??
Other question is how to do to obtain daikon seeds, I sow lots of
Daikon in the winter, in some places I put a clover crop, in others
not but I had the same results, I had a really good harvest, some
daikons weighted more than 2 kl, I let some daikon and they went to
seed, but close to them there were lots of mustard, wild radish, and
other wild brassicas, most of the in flower and with lots bees,
ladybugs,, pollinating them,so I thought that it was something
completly natural, in this way new species will born, but I want to
eat daikon not a mix of everything,how would be a way to get not
mixed seed in a natural way .???
Other thing that Iīve been wondering about is how to cultivate in
hilly land in a natural way, I am starting my natural farm in a
really hilly land, so I was thinking in making terraces, but to do
them I will need to move a lot of soil,to make earthen banks,
walls,and level the ground, might it be naturally to do this ???
allthough I donīt see other way to controll erosion, and retain
humidity, somebody has experience with this.???
Any advice will be helpfull
Thanks
--- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, "poojyum" <poojyum@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Steve,
>
> Thank you for suggestions.
>
> > If  you put your seedlings in a row, they are prone to all
suffering
> > from the same fate.
>
> I dont put seedlings in a row. I sow seed at random - here and
there.
>
> >If you put your seedlings in an area with no other
> > growing plants, they will be targeted by pests.  If you plant
just
> >what
> > you need, that's not sharing with nature.
>
> >
> > If you put your seedlings in a mixed growing environment with
other
> > plants they are partially hidden.  If you grow many more than you
> >need there will be some left for you.
>
> My plot is full of so called 'weeds'. There was 1 area where I had
dug
> due to pressure from a fellow plot holder. I regret doing that. And
> that area doesnt have too many plants. Unfortunately in that area
my
> seedlings are thriving!
>
> I'm not planting only what I need. I dont even count how many
seeds I
> sow. I sow a lot. For example I sowed probably 50 broadbeans seeds
> here and there. Of them about 10 have come up and 3 are standing
> today. The 3 are eaten up here and there. I am happy for the 3 yes
but
> it seems they are there only because they have not been found by
the
> 'pests' yet!
>
> >If you plant from seedballs they will
> > be protected until they get started.
>
> With seedballs I have had very poor result. Probably its not the
right
> clay I dont know. I picked up clay from a molehill along the
tracks I
> cycle thru. It seemed soft, natural & local. I had 1 spinach, a
couple
> lettuce from seedballs.
>
> >If you plant into a standing crop
> > and cut the crop after yours gets started they will take off
from the
> > increase in light and space.  If you put the litter from that
cut crop
> > back over your plants as mulch they will be additionally
protected.
>
> When I sow a seed, I cut back on the grasses/'weeds' a bit & sow.
If I
> was transplanting a seedling, I cut back and as you suggest put it
> back as mulch to hide them and to save some moisture.
>
> >
> > The trick is to plant the right plants at the right time
following the
> > right crop and cutting the overgrowth at the right time.  Don't
expect
> > success every time and be prepared to have little success at
first and
> > more as you figure out what works for you.  OK, this is hard
when you
> > have to wait a year between experiments and you are hoping to
eat your
> > plants after all that work.
> >
> > Fukuoka had a kitchen garden as well as the farming fields.  I
suspect
> > he had the same problems.
> >
> > Steve
>
> Thank you for writing. I will keep experimenting.
>

Dear  All
BCIL-Alt. tech is organizing a not-for-profit venture to conduct a tree planting
drive in and around Bangalore. Their intention is to sensitize the urban mind to
the environment.  To this end, they are starting the Million Seed balls Campaign
where all corporate, government organizations and educational institutions are
invited to contribute by participating in making seed balls in their
organizations/institutions on 5 June 2006.  These seed balls will then be
scattered by rural groups in the hilly areas outside Bangalore after the first
monsoon shower. These rural groups will continue to maintain the area for the
next 3 years.

Please follow the link www.millionseedballs.org for more details.


Most people want to "do something" for the environment, but don't know 'what' or
'how' to contribute - we are happy to present Bangaloreans that opportunity. You
could help by purchasing the 5000 seed ball kit.  You could have your employees
participate in making the seed balls during a break in their working hours on
June 5.


We are already in touch with TOI, Deccan Herald, NDTV, Radio City and other
media channels for publicizing the drive.


Also, do let us know if you would let us put your company logo on our website to
show that you support the cause.


Do call us if you would like to contribute to greening Bangalore by buying a
5000 seed ball kit @ Rs. 5000/-.  We will have our representative come meet you
and give your more details on this powerful example of "Bangaloreans rallying
together to protect our Environment".


Looking forward to hearing from you at the earliest.


Warm regards,

Radha




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

BCIL-Alt. tech in Bangalore is organizing a not-for-profit venture to conduct a
tree planting drive in and around Bangalore. Their intention is to sensitize the
urban mind to the environment.  To this end, they are starting the Million Seed
balls Campaign where all corporate, government organizations and educational
institutions are invited to contribute by participating in making seed balls in
their organizations/institutions on 5 June 2006.  These seed balls will then be
scattered by rural groups in the hilly areas outside Bangalore after the first
monsoon shower. These rural groups will continue to maintain the area for the
next 3 years.

Please follow the link www.millionseedballs.org for more details.


If anybody in this forum would know any groups who would like to
participate/sponsor this drive please do let me know. Thanks.

Warm regards,

Radha


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"Precisa-se de Matéria Prima para construir um País"


De João Ubaldo Ribeiro

A crenįa geral anterior era que Collor não servia, bem como Itamar e Fernando
Henrique.Agora dizemos que Lula
não serve. E o que vier depois de Lula também não servirá para nada. Por isso
estou comeįando a suspeitar que o
problema não está no ladrão corrupto que foi Collor, ou na farsa que é o Lula. O
problema está em nós. Nós como
POVO. Nós como matéria prima de um país. Porque pertenįo a um país onde a
"ESPERTEZA" é a moeda que sempre é
valorizada, tanto ou mais do que o dólar. Um país onde ficar rico da noite para
o dia é uma virtude mais
apreciada do que formar uma família, baseada em valores e respeito aos demais.
Pertenįo a um país onde,
lamentavelmente, os jornais jamais poderão ser vendidos como em outros países,
isto é, pondo umas caixas nas
calįadas onde se paga por um só jornal E SE TIRA UM SÓ JORNAL, DEIXANDO OS
DEMAIS ONDE ESTÃO.
Pertenįo ao país onde as "EMPRESAS PRIVADAS" são papelarias particulares de seus
empregados desonestos, que
levam para casa, como se fosse correto, folhas de papel, lápis, canetas, clipes
e tudo o que possa ser útil
para o trabalho dos filhos ...e para eles mesmos. Pertenįo a um país onde a
gente se sente o máximo porque
conseguiu "puxar" a tevę a cabo do vizinho, onde a gente frauda a declaraįão de
imposto de renda para não pagar
ou pagar menos impostos. Pertenįo a um país onde a impontualidade é um hábito.
Onde os diretores das empresas
não valorizam o capital humano. Onde há pouco interesse pela ecologia, onde as
pessoas atiram lixo nas ruas e
depois reclamam do governo por não limpar os esgotos. Onde pessoas fazem "gatos"
para roubar luz e água e nos queixamos de como esses serviįos estão caros.
Onde não existe a cultura pela leitura (exemplo maior nosso atual Presidente,
que recentemente falou que é
"muito chato ter que ler") e não há conscięncia nem memória política, histórica
nem econômica. Onde nossos
congressistas trabalham dois dias por semana para aprovar projetos e leis que só
servem para afundar ao que não
tem, encher o saco ao que tem pouco e beneficiar só a alguns.
Pertenįo a um país onde as carteiras de motorista e os certificados médicos
podem ser "comprados", sem fazer
nenhum exame. Um país onde uma pessoa de idade avanįada, ou uma mulher com uma
crianįa nos braįos, ou um
inválido, fica em pé no ônibus, enquanto a pessoa que está sentada finge que
dorme para não dar o lugar. Um
país no qual a prioridade de passagem é para o carro e não para o pedestre. Um
país onde fazemos um monte de
coisa errada, mas nos esbaldamos em criticar nossos governantes. Quanto mais
analiso os defeitos do Fernando
Henrique e do Lula, melhor me sinto como pessoa, apesar de que ainda ontem
"molhei" a mão de um guarda de
trânsito para não ser multado. Quanto mais digo o quanto o Dirceu é culpado,
melhor sou eu como brasileiro,
apesar de ainda hoje de manhã passei para trás um cliente através de uma fraude,
o que me ajudou a pagar
algumas dívidas.
Não. Não. Não. Já basta.
Como "Matéria Prima" de um país, temos muitas coisas boas, mas nos falta muito
para sermos os homens e mulheres
que nosso país precisa. Esses defeitos, essa "ESPERTEZA BRASILEIRA" congęnita,
essa desonestidade em pequena
escala, que depois cresce e evolui até converter-se em casos de escândalo, essa
falta de qualidade humana, mais
do que Collor, Itamar, Fernando Henrique ou Lula, é que é real e honestamente
ruim, porque todos eles são
brasileiros como nós, ELEITOS POR NÓS. Nascidos aqui, não em outra parte... Me
entristeįo. Porque, ainda que
Lula renunciasse hoje mesmo, o próximo presidente que o suceder terá que
continuar trabalhando com a mesma
matéria prima defeituosa que, como povo, somos nós mesmos. E não poderá fazer
nada... Não tenho nenhuma
garantia de que alguém o possa fazer melhor, mas enquanto alguém não sinalizar
um caminho destinado a erradicar
primeiro os vícios que temos como povo, ninguém servirá. Nem serviu Collor, nem
serviu Itamar, não serviu
Fernando Henrique, e nem serve Lula, nem servirá o que vier. Qual é a
alternativa? Precisamos de mais um
ditador, para que nos faįa cumprir a lei com a forįa e por meio do terror? Aqui
faz falta outra coisa. E
enquanto essa "outra coisa" não comece a surgir de baixo para cima, ou de cima
para baixo, ou do centro para os
lados, ou como queiram, seguiremos igualmente condenados, igualmente
estancados....igualmente sacaneados!!! É
muito gostoso ser brasileiro. Mas quando essa brasilinidade autóctone comeįa a
ser um empecilho ās nossas
possibilidades de desenvolvimento como Naįão, aí a coisa muda... Não esperemos
acender uma vela a todos os
Santos, a ver se nos mandam um Messias.
Nós temos que mudar, um novo governador com os mesmos brasileiros não poderá
fazer nada. Está muito claro......
Somos nós os que temos que mudar. Sim, creio que isto encaixa muito bem em tudo
o que anda nos
acontecendo: desculpamos a mediocridade mediante programas de televisão nefastos
e francamente tolerantes com o
fracasso. É a indústria da desculpa e da estupidez. Agora, depois desta
mensagem, francamente decidi procurar o
responsável, não para castigá-lo, senão para exigir-lhe (sim,
exigir-lhe) que melhore seu comportamento e que não se faįa de surdo, de
desentendido. Sim, decidi procurar o
responsável e ESTOU SEGURO QUE O ENCONTRAREI QUANDO ME OLHAR NO ESPELHO. AÍ
ESTÁ. NÃO PRECISO PROCURÁ-LO EM
OUTRO LADO.
E vocę, o que pensa?.... MEDITE!!!!!"

JOÃO UBALDO RIBEIRO











----------------------------
       Não imprima.

Cada 50 quilos de papel economizado ou reciclado salvam uma árvore.
----------------------------
     Don't print

Each 50 KG of recicled or saved paper save a tree.
---------------------------
    Bitte nicht drucken.

Jede 50 Kg eingespartes oder Recyclingpapier helfen einen Baum am
Leben zu halten.
----------------------------

"
The idea that the Paleolithic was "nasty, brutish and short" is
nothing more than smug ethnocentrism that develops for the simple
fact that the only way to get people to live in such a wretched
fashion is to convince them that misery is their natural state. But
that's very much a lie. Revisit the evidence for that belief: if
you're honest with yourself, you'll find it lacking.
"
Learn some Anthropology! from anthropology graduates quoted from:
http://anthropik.com/2006/04/how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love\
-the-bush-administration/#comment-11167

Go to http://anthropik.com/thirty

Also see Jared Diamond on this in: "Agriculture's Two-Edged Sword" -
Chapter 10 in "The Rise and Fall of the third Chimpanzee" at:
http://www.google.com/search?\
hl=en&lr=&q=The+Rise+and+Fall+of+the+third+Chimpanzee&btnG=Search
(in older publishings chapter 10 is titled "Agriculture's Mixed
Blessings" see: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0060984031/ )

The even older version of this is in his famous 1987 paper
originally written as an article in Discover (Science) magazine
called:
"The Worst Mistake in the History of the Human Race"
Here at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming/files/\
Jared Diamond Worst Mistake in the History of human race.pdf

All this is for correction of the sad mistake of that part of Hobbes
writing itself and unexamined thoughtlessness of derivatives of it
such as this mistaken post of bobm20001:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming/message/2973

Dear friend,
   sorry, deley in reply, my computer was out of order.In no-till natural farming
if you are not tilling and giving back all straw it means soil is rich and
soft.For sowing seeds your method is perfect we call it dibbling.But for ground
cover crop such as clover direct seeding is ok even with the main crop dibling
you can scatter clover seeds.
   clover will stop grass and will cover all land.In this cover there will be no
need to dibbling, direct seedig or seed ball will give perfect result.
   Thanks
   Raju

S Jagannathan <poojyum@...> wrote:
   Dear Rajuji,

I hope you got my previous mail. Eagerly anticipating your reply!

Jagan.



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
  Next-gen email? Have it all with the  all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dear friends,
I added more photos in fukuoka farming group.
1-Growing leguminus crops in grass cover.
2-Making thousands of seed balls by hand.
Thanks
Raju


---------------------------------
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2Ē/min
with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello all,

Life seems to have gotten regular enough to give me time to work on the
Fukuoka farming website again. Before I start, if there is anything any of
you think would improve it then please let me know and I will try to
incorporate that.

The website is at http://www.fukuokafarmingol.info

The version at larryhaftl.com/ffo will be completely eliminated shortly to
direct all traffic to the fukuokafarmingol.info website.

Hope at least some of you get some benefit from the website.

Larry Haftl

Thank you, Larry,

     We appreciate all the work that you have done & continue to put into the
Fukuoka Farming on line information site <http://www.fukuokafarmingol.info>.

     Circle School Cooperative in Richmond, Virginia, USA, continues to hold
dear Fukuoka's teachings of natural gardening, through a few set-backs & a
long, drawn-out permit & permission processes with the City Department of
Parks & Recreation.

     As our official catch-up report, we respectfully submit the following for
the Fukuoka group archives:

     We are participating in a collective of gardeners working to gain
permission for community gardens in each city council district, sometimes on
privately owned land, such as on the grounds of an apartment complex,
sometimes on public land, such as a park, playground, or right of way.

     Within the community gardens, it is our Circle School Cooperative goal to
have a side-by-side comparison of Fukuokan gardening along with other
practices.  All gardens in this program are required to be organic, which is
defined simply as not using toxic petro-chemical fertilizers, pesticides &
herbicides.  Hardly anyone in the group, so far, knows much about the work &
writing of Masanobu Fukuoka nor Emilia Hazelip, so there is neither support
nor resistance to including this experiment within the larger context of
getting more organic gardens going.

     The old saying holds true: Democracy is run by those who show up.  In
this case, being on the committees for the community gardening discussions
has given us the opportunity to have Fukuokan options considered, such as
observing the compatibility of plants within a guild under a nearby tree, &
learning what benefits they provide each other.  An alternative to labor
intensive forms of composting is attractive to most of the participants,
especially those new to gardening.

     As a collective, the group advocating this City-Wide project believes
that urban agriculture is an activity that must be experienced by each
succeeding generation, with models & voices of experience, to help support
the population through the coming cultural changes from ever-increasing oil
prices.  Not only must gardeners & farmers know how to grow food without
input of petrochemicals, but we must know which foods grow, & how they grow
in our locales & microclimates *before* the rising fuel costs for trucking (&
of processing & of plastic packaging) makes a balanced diet hard to come by,
except for the ultra-rich (of which there will be plenty) & the
ultra-observant who know what real food is, where & how it is already growing
in the cities.  We plan to produce programs on foraging & native plant
identification, as part of the function of the community gardening sites.

     The collective of community gardening groups is fortuitously taking part
in a program called Richmond Sister Cities, with partners in South Africa,
New Zealand, Australia, & several of the United States, all arranging visits
by each Richmond's representatives, featuring tours of each other's public
gardens.  Locally the program is supported by major gardening groups such as
the Maymont Gardens & Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens, educators & PTAs using
gardens as outdoor classrooms in school yards, as well as representatives of
low-income housing & Citizens Against Crime, who are looking at the community
building aspects of gardening.  Internationally, the Royal Botanic Garden at
Kew is the major member.

     It is within this rich mix that we humbly offer the observations from our
Fukuokan gardens as the project develops.

     Pacing this spring has been frustrating for those of us who would get
outside & just do it.

    We have just jumped the hurdle of insurance for our nearest community
garden on private land.  It will be an intergenerational garden for elders &
preschoolers in programs at the community house, & for residents of two
bordering neighborhoods of differing racial mixes.

     We have not yet surmounted the red tape of the City for a community
garden in the park next door, where our Fukuokan border produced some food
before it was mistakenly mowed down by a park maintenance crew.  We are very
pleased to have won two major grants for an urban greenway (the first was
submitted about the time Larry set sail) that have within the total
($475,000), set-aside pockets of funds that can be applied to fence our
Fukuokan garden border ($8,000) & provide interpretive, educational signage
(couple $thousand).

As a public community garden project, we begin with the necessity of
organizing the university science department to work with a volunteer
environmental engineer to learn to run the required testing procedures to
measure the soil contaminants (not to mention the blah-blah-blah soil
nutrient testing offered by the local farm extension services). We can not
avoid land that is seriously contaminated from say, generations of junk cars
leaking fluids, or demolition of houses that had chipping lead paint,
asbestos siding, & leaking heating-oil tanks.  Now, given that most land
available to this project is either beside the fumes & contaminated dust of a
highway, or has been used for years as an unauthorized parking lot, or is the
site of a condemned building that was razed, we expect that a lot of the
testing will reveal that we are required to bring in uncontaminated soil for
raised beds over a thick landfill liner, which is not a Fukuokan design, but
once it is in place we proceed from there.

     We have not at all given up on replacing the border gardens that were
mostly wiped out along the alley behind our school.  We have weathered
changes of administration within the City & the Parks Department to have an
increasing likelihood that the results of the Fukuokan trial, whatever they
may be, could be reported by whatever future media stories we can generate
about the Richmond Sister Cities project.
Peace,
N

Larry Haftl wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Life seems to have gotten regular enough to give me time to work on the
> Fukuoka farming website again. Before I start, if there is anything any of
> you think would improve it then please let me know and I will try to
> incorporate that.
>
> The website is at http://www.fukuokafarmingol.info
>
> The version at larryhaftl.com/ffo will be completely eliminated shortly to
> direct all traffic to the fukuokafarmingol.info website.
>
> Hope at least some of you get some benefit from the website.
>
> Larry Haftl

Wow Napi!  I am very impressed with all that you have
accomplished...and with what you are about to accomplish.  I can't
wait to hear the results of this grand experiment to show the
differences to the folks in this group there in Virginia between the
gardening methods.

Normally in organic gardening it is not advisable to bring in soil to
an area.  Instead it is recommended that one bring in
compost...finished compost.  I thought I would make that my
contribution.  It can set back a garden for a while to bring in
outside soil.  I do realize this is contaminated land you are
speaking of here.  I am assuming you are going to remove some/all of
it?  Or will you use what you bring in to make raised beds that you
will grow in instead?  That way you could use several layers of wet
newspaper, or wet cardboard serve as a barrier to the contaminated
soil.

Gloria,  Texas

--- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, "Robin, Maya, or Napi"
<seafloorgarden@...> wrote:
>
>     Circle School Cooperative in Richmond, Virginia, USA, continues
to hold
> dear Fukuoka's teachings of natural gardening, through a few set-
backs & a
> long, drawn-out permit & permission processes with the City
Department of
> Parks & Recreation.
>
>     As our official catch-up report, we respectfully submit the
following for
> the Fukuoka group archives:
>
>     We are participating in a collective of gardeners working to
gain
> permission for community gardens in each city council district,
sometimes on
> privately owned land, such as on the grounds of an apartment
complex,
> sometimes on public land, such as a park, playground, or right of
way.
>
>     Within the community gardens, it is our Circle School
Cooperative goal to
> have a side-by-side comparison of Fukuokan gardening along with
other
> practices.  All gardens in this program are required to be organic,
which is
> defined simply as not using toxic petro-chemical fertilizers,
pesticides &
> herbicides.  Hardly anyone in the group, so far, knows much about
the work &
> writing of Masanobu Fukuoka nor Emilia Hazelip, so there is neither
support
> nor resistance to including this experiment within the larger
context of
> getting more organic gardens going.
>
>     The old saying holds true: Democracy is run by those who show
up.  In
> this case, being on the committees for the community gardening
discussions
> has given us the opportunity to have Fukuokan options considered,
such as
> observing the compatibility of plants within a guild under a nearby
tree, &
> learning what benefits they provide each other.  An alternative to
labor
> intensive forms of composting is attractive to most of the
participants,
> especially those new to gardening.
>
>     As a collective, the group advocating this City-Wide project
believes
> that urban agriculture is an activity that must be experienced by
each
> succeeding generation, with models & voices of experience, to help
support
> the population through the coming cultural changes from ever-
increasing oil
> prices.  Not only must gardeners & farmers know how to grow food
without
> input of petrochemicals, but we must know which foods grow, & how
they grow
> in our locales & microclimates *before* the rising fuel costs for
trucking (&
> of processing & of plastic packaging) makes a balanced diet hard to
come by,
> except for the ultra-rich (of which there will be plenty) & the
> ultra-observant who know what real food is, where & how it is
already growing
> in the cities.  We plan to produce programs on foraging & native
plant
> identification, as part of the function of the community gardening
sites.
>
>     The collective of community gardening groups is fortuitously
taking part
> in a program called Richmond Sister Cities, with partners in South
Africa,
> New Zealand, Australia, & several of the United States, all
arranging visits
> by each Richmond's representatives, featuring tours of each other's
public
> gardens.  Locally the program is supported by major gardening
groups such as
> the Maymont Gardens & Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens, educators &
PTAs using
> gardens as outdoor classrooms in school yards, as well as
representatives of
> low-income housing & Citizens Against Crime, who are looking at the
community
> building aspects of gardening.  Internationally, the Royal Botanic
Garden at
> Kew is the major member.
>
>     It is within this rich mix that we humbly offer the
observations from our
> Fukuokan gardens as the project develops.
>
>     Pacing this spring has been frustrating for those of us who
would get
> outside & just do it.
>
>    We have just jumped the hurdle of insurance for our nearest
community
> garden on private land.  It will be an intergenerational garden for
elders &
> preschoolers in programs at the community house, & for residents of
two
> bordering neighborhoods of differing racial mixes.
>
>     We have not yet surmounted the red tape of the City for a
community
> garden in the park next door, where our Fukuokan border produced
some food
> before it was mistakenly mowed down by a park maintenance crew.  We
are very
> pleased to have won two major grants for an urban greenway (the
first was
> submitted about the time Larry set sail) that have within the total
> ($475,000), set-aside pockets of funds that can be applied to fence
our
> Fukuokan garden border ($8,000) & provide interpretive, educational
signage
> (couple $thousand).
>
> As a public community garden project, we begin with the necessity of
> organizing the university science department to work with a
volunteer
> environmental engineer to learn to run the required testing
procedures to
> measure the soil contaminants (not to mention the blah-blah-blah
soil
> nutrient testing offered by the local farm extension services). We
can not
> avoid land that is seriously contaminated from say, generations of
junk cars
> leaking fluids, or demolition of houses that had chipping lead
paint,
> asbestos siding, & leaking heating-oil tanks.  Now, given that most
land
> available to this project is either beside the fumes & contaminated
dust of a
> highway, or has been used for years as an unauthorized parking lot,
or is the
> site of a condemned building that was razed, we expect that a lot
of the
> testing will reveal that we are required to bring in uncontaminated
soil for
> raised beds over a thick landfill liner, which is not a Fukuokan
design, but
> once it is in place we proceed from there.
>
>     We have not at all given up on replacing the border gardens
that were
> mostly wiped out along the alley behind our school.  We have
weathered
> changes of administration within the City & the Parks Department to
have an
> increasing likelihood that the results of the Fukuokan trial,
whatever they
> may be, could be reported by whatever future media stories we can
generate
> about the Richmond Sister Cities project.
> Peace,
> N
>

Dear Larry Haftl ,
I have spent 30 years developing Fukuoka systems for aquaculture. I would
appreciate an inclusion on your website under recourses to enable this
information to be available to members.
See my web site at: www.ecological-aquaculture.co.uk

Kind regards
Laurence Hutchinson
Director
Freshwater Solutions
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Haftl" <lh@...>
To: <fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: [fukuoka_farming] Fukuoka Farming website update [Scanned by
Freecom.net]


Hello all,

Life seems to have gotten regular enough to give me time to work on the
Fukuoka farming website again. Before I start, if there is anything any of
you think would improve it then please let me know and I will try to
incorporate that.

The website is at http://www.fukuokafarmingol.info

The version at larryhaftl.com/ffo will be completely eliminated shortly to
direct all traffic to the fukuokafarmingol.info website.

Hope at least some of you get some benefit from the website.

Larry Haftl





Yahoo! Groups Links








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dangerous content by Freecom.net's E-Mail Virus Protection Service,
and is believed to be clean.

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•    Save the date! Benefit Variety Show for A.P.E.

Thursday, June 22, 8:30 pm
Mississippi Studios, N. Mississippi Avenue at Shaver Street, Portland
Oregon

Circosemillas!
A benefit variety show for Academy of Proactive Ecology (A.P.E.)

Featuring:

Oz Street Fossils -ragged old-time music and surrealist swing with
founding members of the Kitchen Syncopators Huck and Felix.

Dave Clay-juggling comedic feats of wonder!

Erik Stern- solo vocals, accordion, and piano with Vagabond Opera's
front man.

Flamenco dancing- a special performance by students of the Flamenco
Arts Academy.

Free Seeds and Plants for everyone!

•    $10 presale contact proactiveecology (at) yahoo
      $15 day of show at Mississippi Studios

---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: FW: Water or Gold...
From:    "Macveety, Susan" <Susan.Macveety@...>
Date:    Tue, May 30, 2006 7:39 am
To:      "Maxwell MacVeety" <mmacveet@...>
Cc:      sbecc@...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


m
-----Original Message-----
From: Camellia Vernon [mailto:kiavernon@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 10:44 AM
To: Macveety, Susan; Grenon, Kathy; Danielle; Lorette Vernon; Margaret;
Andrew Vernon; amanda
Subject: Water or Gold...

> Subject: Water or gold?
>
> In the Valle de San Felix, the purest water in Chile
  runs from 2 rivers, fed by 2 glaciers. Water is a
most precious resource, and wars will be
> fought for it. Indigenous farmers use the water,
there is no unemployment, and they provide the second
largest source of income for yhe area.
>
> Under the glaciers has been found a huge deposit of
gold, silver and other minerals. To get at these, it
would be necessary to break, to destroy
> the glaciers - something never conceived of in the
history of the world -and to make 2 huge holes, each
as big as a whole mountain, one for extraction
> and one for the mine's rubbish tip. The project is
called PASCUA LAMA. The company is called Barrick
Gold. (Barrick Gold is mining at Lake Cowal-NSW
> Australia at the moment!)
> The operation is planned by a multi-national
company, one of whose members is George Bush Senior.
The Chilean Government has approved the
> project to start this year, 2006.
>
> The only reason it hasn't started yet is because the
farmers have got a temporary stay of execution. If
they destroy the glaciers, they will not just
> destroy the source of especially pure water, but
they will permanently contaminate the 2 rivers so they
will never again be fit for human or animal
> consumption because of the use of cyanide and
sulphuric acid in the extraction process.
>
> Every last gram of gold will go abroad to the
multinational company and not one will be left with
the people whose and it is. They will only be left
> with the poisoned water and the resulting illnesses.
>
> The farmers have been fighting a long time for their
land, but have been forbidden to make a TV appeal by a
ban from the Ministry of the Interior.
>
> Their only hope now of putting brakes on this
project is to get help from international justice.The
world must know what is happening in
> Chile. The only place to start changing the world is
from here.
>
> We ask you to circulate this message amongst your
friends in the following way. Please copy this text,
paste it into a new email adding your signature
> and send it to everyone in your address book.
Please, will the 100th person to receive and sign the
petition, send it to noapascualama@...
> to be forwarded to the Chilean Government.
>
> No to Pascua Lama Open-cast mine in the Andean
Cordillera on the Chilean-Argentine frontier. We ask
the Chilean Government not to authorize the
> Pascua Lama project to protect the whole of 3
glaciers, the purity of the water of the San Felix
Valley and El Transito, the quality of the
agricultural land of the
> region of Atacama, the quality of life of the
Diaguita people and of the whole population of the
region.
>
> Signature, City, Country
> 1) Katharine Proudfoot, Edinburgh,Scotland, UK
> 2) Laura Cole, London, UK
> 3) David Platt, London, UK
> 4) Diane Platt, Manchester, UK
> 5) Tanya Corker, Manchester, UK
> 6) Nicola Hargreaves, UK
> 7) Nicholas Jones, UK
> 8) Johann Don-Daniel, Germany
> 9) Ashley Berger, Germany
> 10) Sarah Downie, Leeds, UK
> 11) Paula Delahunty, Bingley, UK
> 12) John O'Driscoll, Bingley, Uk
> 13) Jordan-Lee Delahunty, Bingley, UK
> 14) Claire Mulvey, Bradford, UK
> 15) Marie Malcolm Bradford, UK
> 16) Ann Clowes, Halifax UK
> 17) Jayne McGee, Brighouse UK
> 18) Jason Barratt Oldham UK
> 19) Lindsay Torrance, Rochdale UK
> 20) Maggie Ford, Rochdale, U.K.
> 21) Barry Cook, Todmorden, U.K.
> 22) Shelley Burgoyne, Todmorden, U.K.
> 23) Lisa Stuart, Potes, Spain.
> 24) Michael Stuart, Potes, Spain.
> 25) Renee Engl, Byron Bay, Australia
> 26) Adrian Begg, Brunswick Heads,Australia
> 27) Riana Begg, Brunswick Heads, Australia
> 28) Oriel Paterson, Brunswick Heads,Australia
> 29) Alicia Paterson, Brisbane, Australia
> 30) Lyneve Robinson, Sydney, Australia
> 31) Jennifer Moalem, Sydney, Australia
> 32) Alexandra Pope, Sydney Australia
> 33) Shushann Movsessian, Sydney Australia
> 34) Amanda Frost
> 35) Tarshito , Montecollum,NSW Australia
> 36) Eltara
> 37) Michael Webb, The Channon,NSWAustralia
> 38) Sarah LaRock, New Orleans, USA
> 39) Annie LaRock, New Orleans, USA
> 40) David Zurak , New York, USA
> 41) Sapidah Kian, Melbourne, Australia
> 42) Blake Osborn , Byron Bay, Australia
> 43) Pip Theobald, South Golden Beach, NSW,Australia
> 44) Morgane Kerisit, Byron Bay, NSW,Australia
> 45) Anthony Nunns, Byron Bay, NSW,Australia
> 46) Peter Westheimer, Byron Bay NSW,Australia
> 47) Alan Goldstein, Goonengerry NSW,Australia
> 48) Carole Bruce, Stroud, Glos, UK
> 49) Roe Woodroffe Grange-in -BorrowdaleCumbria UK
> 50)Ana Rezende, Forest Row, UK
> 51) Anita Charton, Basel, Switzerland
> 52) Christine Olmos Switzerland
> 53) Joseph Rubano, Oceanside, CA, USA
> 54) Yelena Sedochenkova, San Diego, CA USA
> 55) Brette Lavery, Vallejo, CA USA
> 56) Tei Gundolfi San Francisco, CA

    57) Debra Denison, Vermont USA
   58) Camellia Vernon, Massachusetts, USA
59)BobMacVeety, Massachusetts, USA

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hello,
I'll be glad to include a link to your website with the next batch of
updates I do on the Fukuoka site (probably this coming week). If you put a
reciprocal link on your website you should use fukuokafarmingol.info as the
files on my private domain are going away.
Larry Haftl


----- Original Message -----
From: "Laurence Hutchinson" <lh@...>
To: <fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [fukuoka_farming] Fukuoka Farming website update [Scanned by
Freecom.net]


> Dear Larry Haftl ,
> I have spent 30 years developing Fukuoka systems for aquaculture. I would
> appreciate an inclusion on your website under recourses to enable this
> information to be available to members.
> See my web site at: www.ecological-aquaculture.co.uk
>
> Kind regards
> Laurence Hutchinson
> Director
> Freshwater Solutions
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Haftl" <lh@...>
> To: <fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:47 PM
> Subject: [fukuoka_farming] Fukuoka Farming website update [Scanned by
> Freecom.net]
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Life seems to have gotten regular enough to give me time to work on the
> Fukuoka farming website again. Before I start, if there is anything any of
> you think would improve it then please let me know and I will try to
> incorporate that.
>
> The website is at http://www.fukuokafarmingol.info
>
> The version at larryhaftl.com/ffo will be completely eliminated shortly to
> direct all traffic to the fukuokafarmingol.info website.
>
> Hope at least some of you get some benefit from the website.
>
> Larry Haftl
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by Freecom.net's E-Mail Virus Protection Service,
> and is believed to be clean.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

If Bob Monie had not intentionally written in such absurd &
simplistic writing, to deliberately deny, obfuscate, lampoon,
undermine and obscure the seriousness & complexity of the
substantial body of more than 30 years' of scientific medical
evidence in his:
"The Fine Art of Grain Battering"
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming/message/3199 ),
then the issue of this subject would have been briefly well covered
in a serious, agreeable and more nuanced form of this write-up by
him. So (re-)read his contrived satirisation as a perversion of the
truth and you will recieve some sort of introduction to this very
profound issue. As it was he used his writing skill to obscure the
evidence and attempt to put this evidence-based issue in the dark
away from public consciousness in this example rather than to shed
more light on this clear to medical science evidence-based issue.
There are some substantial shortcomings in "The origins of
agriculture: a biological perspective and a new hypothesis" by
Wadley & Martin (Australian Biologist 6: 96 - 105, June 1993) but
these do take away the substantial and nowadays consolidating
scientific medical body of evidence. The major Exorphin problem in
history does really only apply, as far as the available evidence
shows, to people derived from the expansionary cultures of and who
speak languages of the Indo-European language family (including
English) -
See "Scientists trace evolution of Indo-European languages to
Hittites" Farmer peoples derived from the middle east or fertile
crescent ("The Guardian" Nov 27 2003) -
( http://www.guardian.co.uk/life/news/story/0,12976,1094497,00.html )
Only since these cultures invasively expanded colonisation into the
so called new world did this Exorphins drugs-foods problem become
foisted on more or less the whole human race.

The Opioid Effect
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming/message/5590 )
(Thanks!)
An straightforward, not perverse, introduction from US American
Sustainable Agriculture Newspaper Acres USA Jan 2004

From "Pushing & Pulling into the Neolithic" - The Anthropik Network
I wrote a critical update of this Exorphins issue here as quoted
below:
( http://anthropik.com/2005/03/pushing-and-pulling-into-the-\
neolithic/#comment-7631 )
"
G'day Folks,
from Oz,

I have been learning more and more about Exorphins in
staple 'Western' Foods (Actually peoples of the Indo-european family
of languages) for the past few years since I too read my compatriot
Greg Wadley with Angus Martin's, paper. Please everyone see updated
information from Greg Wadley and citations to and clarifications of
his writing at his University webpage:
http://www.dis.unimelb.edu.au/staff/gwadley/ethology/ethology.html
While his paper orginally published in 1993 in The Australian
Biologist is very good as an introduction to this staple 'western'
foods-drugs subject and it's implications, it has some serious
shortcomings. That I know in some cases or suspect in others cases,
that Greg Wadley has updated his views nowadays. For a crucial
instance of an updated view about this importance of exorphin
(opioids) in the transition to 'western' agriculture in the fertile
crescent see the very well written and richly informative paper that
Greg Wadley cites:
Hillman G, Hedges R, Moore A, Colledge, S., and Pettitt, P. (2001)
New evidence of Lateglacial cereal cultivation at Abu Hureyra on the
Euphrates Holocene 11 (4): 383-393

The evident civilisation and development since many thousands of
years ago of highly sophisticated and evolved kinship systems that
contrary to Wadley & Martin (1993, p. 6, conclusion)
involve "devoting effort to the benefit of non-kin" before or
without any staple food-drugs is one instance that is a crucial
exception to his hypothesis, that Greg Wadley doesn't yet seem to
know about but may do so, in the instances (best known examples to
me) of the 600+ different societies in Terra australis - Australia
(officially recorded today 260+ fully different languages - the 600+
figure being the official count of the no. of dialects across all
those languages and what are the so called tribes or tribal language
areas) - the many societies & civilisations that as far as is known
didn't get addicted to or even perhaps ever have access to staple
drugs-foods until western colonial invasion, but nonetheless,
despite stereotypes and pre-conceived vain ideas of Europeans
or 'Westerners' to the contrary, did for tens of thousands of years
have the choice of agriculture because they had the faculty of
agriculture all that time and only in a few areas of Australia did
the pressure, desire or need arise to impliment that faculty of
(full) agriculture. See "Agriculture: was Australia a bystander?" by
Peter White - Archaeology, University of Sydney, Australia,
presented at the World Archaeological Congress 2003 for a recent
reference on this - see: http://scholar.google.com/scholar?
num=100&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&q=cache:MT8vXyKw_eQJ:godot.unisa.edu.au/wa
c/pdfs/191.pdf+
And see - Fullagar R & Field J 1997. Pleistocene seed-grinding
implements from the Australian arid zone Antiquity 71 (272): 300-
307. at: http://www.emu.usyd.edu.au/docs/field_5.pdf

The upshot of all this revision of western cherished illusions and
stereotypes is that there evidently are clearly various different
avenues or 'life-ways' to develop civilisations and highly evolved
societies that include amongst other developments "devoting effort
to the benefit of non-kin", to quote one of Greg Wadley & Angus
Martin's pivotal points again.

There is a very large anthropological scientific literature on the
many kinship systems and spiritualities of the civilisations and
highly evolved societies of Australia. The best writings are by
Indigenous writers themselves who have had the opportunity to also
in addition to there own culture, learn't to write in 'western'
anthropology including getting there PhDs and so on. Marcia Langton
is one fine writer, thinker, academic and person for example. A
review paper to catch up with the state of the 'western' level of
understanding to 1992 of the people's of Australia is Professor Max
Charlesworth's "Introduction" in Religion in Aboriginal Australia -
An Anthology
see online scanned copy (with some scanning errors) at:
http://theology1.tripod.com/readings/charlesworth.htm

Key papers by Marcia Langton are:

Marcia Langton 1999 'The fire that is the centre of each family:
landscapes of the ancients' in A Hamblin (ed) Visions of Future
Landscapes. Proceedings of the Australian Academy of Science 2-5 May
1999 Canberra 169-178.
As at (large): http://affashop.gov.au/product.asp?prodid=12831
or (large):
http://www.daff.gov.au/corporate_docs/publications/pdf/rural_science/
vision.pdf
Intro at: http://www.daff.gov.au/content/publications.cfm?
Category=Bureau%20of%20Rural%20Sciences&ObjectID=4F5E088D-E9BF-4AFD-
819DCC63FEF98696

Marcia Langton 1999 'The fire at the centre of each family:
Aboriginal traditional fire regimes and the challenges for
reproducing ancient fire management in the protected areas of
northern Australia' in FIRE! The Australian Experience, Proceedings
of the 1999 National Academies Forum Australian Academy of
Technological Sciences & Engineering Ltd 3-32.
As at: http://www.atse.org.au/uploads/FireLangton.pdf
Intro & Abstract at: http://www.atse.org.au/index.php?sectionid=190

Best wishes to all,

Jase
"
( http://anthropik.com/2005/03/pushing-and-pulling-into-the-\
neolithic/#comment-7631 )
--------------------------------

After the writing of Jean-Claude at:
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming/message/3081 )
then "animaphile" <animaphile@...> wrote:
>
> Quoting as a start to the article (hypothesis) you linked us to,
interesting, broadening, mind opening, opens the uncertainty, thanks
jean claude.
>
> "
> The origins of agriculture: a biological perspective and a new
hypothesis
>
> by Greg Wadley & Angus Martin
>
> Department of Zoology, University of Melbourne
>
> Published in Australian Biologist 6: 96 - 105, June 1993
>
> Introduction
>
> What might head a list of the defining characteristics of the
human species? While our view of ourselves could hardly avoid
highlighting our accomplishments in engineering, art, medicine,
space travel and the like, in a more dispassionate assessment
agriculture would probably displace all other contenders for top
billing. Most of the other achievements of humankind have followed
from this one. Almost without exception, all people on earth today
are sustained by agriculture. With a minute number of exceptions, no
other species is a farmer. Essentially all of the arable land in the
world is under cultivation. Yet agriculture began just a few
thousand years ago, long after the appearance of anatomically modern
humans.
>
> Given the rate and the scope of this revolution in human biology,
it is quite extraordinary that there is no generally accepted model
accounting for the origin of agriculture. Indeed, an increasing
array of arguments over recent years has suggested that agriculture,
far from being a natural and upward step, in fact led commonly to a
lower quality of life. Hunter-gatherers typically do less work for
the same amount of food, are healthier, and are less prone to famine
than primitive farmers (Lee & DeVore 1968, Cohen 1977, 1989). A
biological assessment of what has been called the puzzle of
agriculture might phrase it in simple ethological terms: why was
this behaviour (agriculture) reinforced (and hence selected for) if
it was not offering adaptive rewards surpassing those accruing to
hunter-gathering or foraging economies?
>
> This paradox is responsible for a profusion of models of the
origin of agriculture. 'Few topics in prehistory', noted Hayden
(1990) 'have engendered as much discussion and resulted in so few
satisfying answers as the attempt to explain why hunter/gatherers
began to cultivate plants and raise animals. Climatic change,
population pressure, sedentism, resource concentration from
desertification, girls' hormones, land ownership, geniuses, rituals,
scheduling conflicts, random genetic kicks, natural selection, broad
spectrum adaptation and multicausal retreats from explanation have
all been proffered to explain domestication. All have major
flaws ... the data do not accord well with any one of these
models. '
>
> Recent discoveries of potentially psychoactive substances in
certain agricultural products - cereals and milk - suggest an
additional perspective on the adoption of agriculture and the
behavioural changes ('civilisation') that followed it. In this paper
we review the evidence for the drug-like properties of these foods,
and then show how they can help to solve the biological puzzle just
described.
> ............. ...
> "
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fukuoka_farming/message/3081 )

Dear Organic believers/followers

IFOAM invited definition of organicfarming by MAY 31,2006 and I would
request you kindly send you views onthe IFOAM website.

I am sharing my views with you all



Definition

It is not the defining rather understanding the Nature's system
ofproduction
and recycling in which every living being including humanbeing is
just to
get as well as return his/her share.



Key words: 1. Cooperation with Nature, Natives (Local people,
vegetation,
animals) andneighbors 2. Decentralized input supply ( no Azadirictin
in
place ofNeem extracts or vermicompost in branded bags.) 3. Maintained
food
chain(man is herbivorous by nature)

3. Input optimization (benefit) and notoutput maximization (exploit)
4.
Local and seasonal production andconsumption (low input/energy
required for
production and maintainedregional nutrient balance).

5. Addition in tradition ( addition of modern ecofrindly scientific
understanding in the time tested tradtions for living in
synergismwith nature)

Other views

1.  Making a cage ofdefinition with some words is looks like we are
trying
to limit/controlnature that is not possible till date. Nature is a
dynamic
systemtherefore one definition will not be long lasting.



2. Organic is aconcept of life near to nature. Thus with organic
agriculture, anorganic life style and organic mentality is inevitable
to
get completesense and sustainability.





For Performa Please visit the site

www.ifoam.org/organic_facts/definition_organic_agriculture.html



Yours sincerely

Arun K.Sharma

20/14,C.H.B

Jodhpur-342003,INDIA





---------------------------------
   Yahoo! India Answers: Share what you know. Learn something new Click here
  Send free SMS to your Friends on Mobile from your Yahoo! Messenger Download now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi, I am a single mom, and a young homeowner with an avid
interest all things organic I have a house on organic property for
rent or sale in San Marcos, Ocotepeque Honduras.

  I am part of the movement and would like it to stay in organic
hands. I am looking to post this somewhere and wondered if
you have any ideas about how to get the word out.  Great for an
NGO who wants to iniciate a project and could get funding, or a
grad who wants to try their hand at organig farming.  I would
have taken this opportunity as a recent graduate  (life takes its
twists,  so its not for me to live there now).  I learned alot about
organic gardening there just by myself,  so I'm sure others could
too.


Its 1/2 acre of organic flat farmable land with orange trees,
mango tree, lemons and guavas. 5 6m2 double dug beds, star
shaped mandala garden behind house. some drip irrigation and
soaker hoses installed. nice region, beautiful house. for
complete listing goto
http://www.viviun.com/AD-38271
thanks in advance

peace and organic harmony

leah sunshine

Hi Torskel,

See if any of this info helps.

All the best,
Niels
http://del.icio.us/entrailer
http://nocompost.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65387153@N00/



torskel87 wrote:

> Hello everyone
> This is Miguel from Ecuador,I am very interested in letting my
> plants to reseed by themselfs, and now my doughts are how to let
> this occur naturally, because here there are not harsh winters
> (there is not snow) and  when the plants go to seed most of it will
> be eaten by birds,so might it be better to make seedballs.??
> Other question is how to do to obtain daikon seeds, I sow lots of
> Daikon in the winter, in some places I put a clover crop, in others
> not but I had the same results, I had a really good harvest, some
> daikons weighted more than 2 kl, I let some daikon and they went to
> seed, but close to them there were lots of mustard, wild radish, and
> other wild brassicas, most of the in flower and with lots bees,
> ladybugs,, pollinating them,so I thought that it was something
> completly natural, in this way new species will born, but I want to
> eat daikon not a mix of everything,how would be a way to get not
> mixed seed in a natural way .???

*"Seed Saving" and varietal purity*
A method for saving pure seeds from the Daikon is probably to grow a few
of them in one place, doesn't matter where but a few plants together
with no other brassicas around them. Then you will need to net off these
plants, and now the tricky bit. I will say at this point that I have not
done this my self but have seen examples at The Heritage Seeds Library
(HSL), UK and in a book from Kokkopelli.
At the HSL they use dedicated pollinating insects which spend their
whole lives inside small plastic tunnels, _all other insects are
excluded_. This last point is key.
This example however they buy insect eggs. So maybe not suitable for our
needs.
_HSL website:_
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/hsl/whos_who.php
Another method is to hand-pollinate.
Again you will need to net-off the radish from other brassica, though
other plants are fine. Then at a time when the plants are in flower you
can use a small paint brush to transfer pollen from one plant to another.
At this point I will ask a question of the group.
Are monoescious? By this I mean are there male and female flowers on the
same plant? If this is the case then you can get away with transferring
pollen from male to female flowers on _the same plant._ However I think
it would probably better to do it from another plant. Not essential.
Do remember _no insects can enter your net when you are hand-pollinating
_or at any time during flowering. Net must remain _until seed is set.


_Or you could just have a garden bed near the house specifically for
seed saving, then just add these seeds to seed balls for next season.
_
_

> Other thing that Iīve been wondering about is how to cultivate in
> hilly land in a natural way, I am starting my natural farm in a
> really hilly land, so I was thinking in making terraces, but to do
> them I will need to move a lot of soil,to make earthen banks,
> walls,and level the ground, might it be naturally to do this ???
> allthough I donīt see other way to controll erosion, and retain
> humidity, somebody has experience with this.???

*Upland cultivation and Soil Erosion
*First of all, I think that you should _not _make terraces. Again, I
have no experience personally but it is clear they are extremely
labour-intensive to build and will always need your attention.
Secondly if you are sticking with Fukuoka's advice and not digging
(tilling, cultivating or removing vegetative cover) you will not have a
major soil "retention" issue. I use this term so that we can stay, in
language, in the positive. We are "keeping soil"/"retaining soil" rather
than preventing /soil erosion/.
"doing" options include:
-Swales:                                 ditches laid, or dug "along
contour" (across the slope). i.e. the opposite of down slope.
-Contour hedges:                 dense vegetation planted at regular
intervals along contour. e.g. Vetiver grass (non-invasive, infertile,
lots of biomass) or Sweet clover.
-Contour planting:               trees or shrubs planted as above. Can
be called "alley cropping".
-Mulching/Cover crops:      the use of vigorous cover crops to produce
mulch (e.g. _Maize-mucuna_) or be a companion to your crops.

_
Links_
Vetiver
http://www.vetiver.com/TVN_greenEng.pdf (500KB download) Vetiver Hedge
www.vetiver.com

Alleycropping
http://images.google.co.uk/images?svnum=10&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&client=firefox-a&r\
ls=org.mozilla%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial_s&q=alleycropping&btnG=Search
http://del.icio.us/entrailer/Alley-Cropping

Maize-Mucuna
http://del.icio.us/entrailer/Maize-Mucuna
http://www.tropag-fieldtrip.cornell.edu/Thurston_TA/pslashmulch.html

Agroforestry (Agrofloresta)
http://www.fazendasaoluiz.com/agrofloresta.htm (Portuguese)
*Contours: MArking and Measurement*
It is very important to accurately survey the field to find out where
the contours are.
For this a number of simple tools can be constructed. They are standard
permaculture tools: an "a-frame" is perhaps the simplest.
It is not important where exactly your contours are measured from and
to. Only that they _are the same height all the way along_.
You can decide on the spacing for yourself, probably narrower than you
might build a terrace.

Anyone know any other good resources for swales and surveying?
Particularly from the permaculture list.

*Strips, Contours, Plants and Combining Them*
Once you have marked your contours then you can decide what to do on
them: swales, hedges, tree etc or combination of all of these at
different intervals.
It is no problem to have trees and hedge plants in the same contour
"strip" and plant them into a swale.
_Greening the Desert
http://www.permaculture.org.au/_ (click on the image in the right hand
side with the above title)
_
_You might have trees planted every other contour strip, so they shade
the slope and the in-between swale/hedge.
Like tree-hedge-tree-hedge. With each one having a swale in it as well.
Or combinations there of.
Perhaps put in a _small pond _every few swales, at different places
along the length.

There are so many variables. This is where it gets really exciting.
But starting small, you could dig just one or two swales and plant them
with fast growing cover crops like vetiver or sweet clover and just a
few trees, or tree seeds, along the length. Then next winter take
cuttings from the trees and start to spread them out along the contour.

*Uses, Outputs and Produce and _Questions_*
It would be useful to talk about what plants and seeds you have
available and what is native in your local area.
Upland production of trees will be for: fuel, fodder and food etc.
And hedges will provide: mulch, fodder.
_Climate
_What is your regional climate?
Average rainfall? Do you have heavy rains? Then periods of drought? How
frequent is rainfall?
_Vegetation_
What is the vegetation like on these slopes?
Are there many trees already? What kind of cover exists? Seasonally and
perrenially.
_Condition of Land and Previous Uses_
Is the land degraded? Has it been used for agriculture before?
Has there been grazing? Will you wish to graze it? If yes: then will it
be Seasonally, in rotation or permanent? And with what animals?
_Trees and Fertility_
What are your native nitrogen-fixing trees and shrubs? Is there seeds
freely available? To buy or gather?
These trees will provide the back-bone of any long-term productivity,
especially in an upland situation.
Some examples are: Inga, Leucana, Wattles. But natives or local species
are better. And hopefully more available
_Resources_
How many people can you count on to work on your project?
What is the usual minimum people you work with day-to-day? What tasks
can you do that will contribute to the "upland project" when your large
labour-force is not available, or needed?
For example, it will be perfectly possible to do the contour marking
with just 2 people.
How much seeds can you get your hands on? How long will it take to
gather/buy? How much space do I have for storage? Do you, or a
neighbour, have experience with handling tree seeds or cuttings?



*Some things to Remember*

_Mulch = (fertile) soil_
So you can never have enough of it. But remember you have to grow it in
the field.

_Marking Swales/Contours_
Remember to mark your contours well. If you are not going to dig your
swale/plant contour hedges on the same day.
If the markers get blown away or eaten it is some time wasted.
I will ask Geoff Lawton the question of how many and what spacing and
placement is appropriate in the first phase.
Though I should have thought one complete and planted-up swale half up
the slope would be better than none.

When you reply This mail will be passed on to other internation networks
for further advice.

All the best,
Niels
http://del.icio.us/entrailer
http://nocompost.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65387153@N00/



> Any advice will be helpfull
> Thanks
> --- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, "poojyum" <poojyum@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Steve,
> >
> > Thank you for suggestions.
> >
> > > If  you put your seedlings in a row, they are prone to all
> suffering
> > > from the same fate.
> >
> > I dont put seedlings in a row. I sow seed at random - here and
> there.
> >
> > >If you put your seedlings in an area with no other
> > > growing plants, they will be targeted by pests.  If you plant
> just
> > >what
> > > you need, that's not sharing with nature.
> >
> > >
> > > If you put your seedlings in a mixed growing environment with
> other
> > > plants they are partially hidden.  If you grow many more than you
> > >need there will be some left for you.
> >
> > My plot is full of so called 'weeds'. There was 1 area where I had
> dug
> > due to pressure from a fellow plot holder. I regret doing that. And
> > that area doesnt have too many plants. Unfortunately in that area
> my
> > seedlings are thriving!
> >
> > I'm not planting only what I need. I dont even count how many
> seeds I
> > sow. I sow a lot. For example I sowed probably 50 broadbeans seeds
> > here and there. Of them about 10 have come up and 3 are standing
> > today. The 3 are eaten up here and there. I am happy for the 3 yes
> but
> > it seems they are there only because they have not been found by
> the
> > 'pests' yet!
> >
> > >If you plant from seedballs they will
> > > be protected until they get started.
> >
> > With seedballs I have had very poor result. Probably its not the
> right
> > clay I dont know. I picked up clay from a molehill along the
> tracks I
> > cycle thru. It seemed soft, natural & local. I had 1 spinach, a
> couple
> > lettuce from seedballs.
> >
> > >If you plant into a standing crop
> > > and cut the crop after yours gets started they will take off
> from the
> > > increase in light and space.  If you put the litter from that
> cut crop
> > > back over your plants as mulch they will be additionally
> protected.
> >
> > When I sow a seed, I cut back on the grasses/'weeds' a bit & sow.
> If I
> > was transplanting a seedling, I cut back and as you suggest put it
> > back as mulch to hide them and to save some moisture.
> >
> > >
> > > The trick is to plant the right plants at the right time
> following the
> > > right crop and cutting the overgrowth at the right time.  Don't
> expect
> > > success every time and be prepared to have little success at
> first and
> > > more as you figure out what works for you.  OK, this is hard
> when you
> > > have to wait a year between experiments and you are hoping to
> eat your
> > > plants after all that work.
> > >
> > > Fukuoka had a kitchen garden as well as the farming fields.  I
> suspect
> > > he had the same problems.
> > >
> > > Steve
> >
> > Thank you for writing. I will keep experimenting.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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HI everyone, i was wondering if anyone knows if it is still possible
to stay and volunteer at the huts of Masanobu's farm. However i didn't
realise he had just turned 93. So i understand that he is retired,
however it would be awsome to go to volunteer or do workshops or meet
him.

Peace Paz

hi, i have recently moved to osaka and was wondering if you could tell
me about any community farming projects i can get involved with?

Hi, I've been on the list for awhile - have been deeply inspired by
Fukuoka's books, and feel a sense of being "led" to this path of
farming/gardening.   My friend, who owns the trailer in which we live,
has just bought land near Dennis Kansas, Zone 6 gardening I believe.
Closing won't be till maybe a month from now, so will probably be early
August before we are able to get the trailer moved onto the land - all
utilities are there, set up for us to get connected.  Gradually over
next couple years Mike will be undergoing various building projects,
sheds, animal shelters, and finally a bermed home, built with
temperature moderating properties.  We're hoping to become
self-sufficient and be able to function "off the grid" in a couple years.
There are about 8 acres, one of which is at present a landscaped "yard"
on which the trailer will sit.  Soon there will be no grass being mown.
There is a built up pond behind the present homesite ( the home Mike
builds will be in Northwest, back left corner of the property).  The
pond is part of an active watershed, water flowing across a path on the
property, mostly in ditch, but if heavy rain opens a little onto
surrounding earth.    Water doesn't stand on the property at present,
but we're considering putting in
several different heighth drain pipes in the pond, which can be closed
or opened at will, allowing us to temporarily flood part of the land
behind the pond at will.   I'm thinking of doing a fairly traditional
twice dug raised bed kitchen garden.  I won't actually use boxes to
raise the beds, but dig ditches down into clay which underlies all the
earth here, build up raised beds with good soil dug out of the
paths/water canals.
Once built I won't be turning this soil further - will use mulch and
cover crops, but want to have producing veggie garden next year, and its
going to take time to get this land in good growing condition.
Plus, I like very much the idea of having paths through my herbs and
veggie beds, of never actually
walking on the growing bed, and having double use of the path for water
channel, letting water soak into
good soil and roots, rather than watering from top.  Thinking of
building a side ditch off the main drainage system, with a water gate,
so I can make direct use of the watershed, directing some of it into my
garden path/water channels.  The big portion of the land is west/left of
the pond.  Probably 5-6 acres total, presently in hay, with drainage
ditch bisecting it - ditch comes in at back northeast corner, heads up
through front southwest corner into neighbor's property.  The hay has
just been harvested.  I'm trying to decide what if anything to do with
the land this year, and am so unsure about timing and what I can best
due this year yet.  We're likely past the best of our spring rains
here.  I could toss some seed before our closing, but if anything
happens, I'd hate to have lost the upfront cost of the seed.  Soil has
been heavily used, and fertilized, and doesn't go deep, is clay through
much of it, and big stone slabs down about 4 feet throughout the
property.  There are good but fairly young trees in place around and
spaced out directly behind the pond.  Hay area wide open.  I do want to
get some trees growing in there - any ideas of good
trees, fast growing, deep roots, that would grow well in this climate?
I won't be using tractor or tilling or mowing at all.  Will do whatever
I do by hand and on foot, with scythe as needed.  Wondering if there is
any advice about good cover crop for this area?  One I could start in
late August or early September, over winter, to help stabalize and feed
the soil.  May do nothing but cover crops and trees for a couple years
on the west field area (back of which will have the new house in a few
years).  May do some grain production there - thinking of amaranth
and/or quinoa, plus possibly rice.  My son and I can't eat wheat, could
use wheat as a cover crop, but not for harvest.  Veggie garden in more
protected area on back of property, east of pond and trees, just south
of the drainage ditch.  Any suggestions are more than welcome.  Thanks, Joy

>

Congradulations....
Sounds like a fun but challenging place to live.


I know peacans grow good there....
Oaks do too, if you are into acorn flour...

with irrigation... peaches, apples, pears, etc...
with zone 6.. in Kansas your limiting factor will be the water
supply for the first 8-10 years

You should also look up the Land Institute in Salina Kansas
They are working with perrenial crop development.
Of primary interest for you would
probably be their wort with perrenial sorguhm and Illionois
Bundleflower (legume-lentil sized seeds)

Sorguhm is grown commerically in small scale in kansas as well
(annual)

Something that may be worth looking into is
Buffalo Gourd, it is a perrenial cubrite naitive to the area, found
on waste areas.. although the fruit is EXTREMELy bitter and
inedible, some people have reported decent yeilds by processing for
the seeds inside, high protein, high oil....

Sunflowers also do well in Kansas.... .. I"m not sure how effective
seedballs are in planting/germination with sunflowers, but again
this could be something to experiment with

with enough water (LOTS AND LOTS), or a drought resistant variety
(try heirloom from NM-AZ..) Corn would be good,.. zuni tribe has
brought back traditional farming methods and have been averaging 40
bu/acre in high desert with no irrigation.


--- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, Joy <smjlists@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi, I've been on the list for awhile - have been deeply inspired
by
> Fukuoka's books, and feel a sense of being "led" to this path of
> farming/gardening.   My friend, who owns the trailer in which we
live,
> has just bought land near Dennis Kansas, Zone 6 gardening I
believe.
> Closing won't be till maybe a month from now, so will probably be
early
> August before we are able to get the trailer moved onto the land -
all
> utilities are there, set up for us to get connected.  Gradually
over
> next couple years Mike will be undergoing various building
projects,
> sheds, animal shelters, and finally a bermed home, built with
> temperature moderating properties.  We're hoping to become
> self-sufficient and be able to function "off the grid" in a couple
years.
> There are about 8 acres, one of which is at present a
landscaped "yard"
> on which the trailer will sit.  Soon there will be no grass being
mown.
> There is a built up pond behind the present homesite ( the home
Mike
> builds will be in Northwest, back left corner of the property).
The
> pond is part of an active watershed, water flowing across a path
on the
> property, mostly in ditch, but if heavy rain opens a little onto
> surrounding earth.    Water doesn't stand on the property at
present,
> but we're considering putting in
> several different heighth drain pipes in the pond, which can be
closed
> or opened at will, allowing us to temporarily flood part of the
land
> behind the pond at will.   I'm thinking of doing a fairly
traditional
> twice dug raised bed kitchen garden.  I won't actually use boxes
to
> raise the beds, but dig ditches down into clay which underlies all
the
> earth here, build up raised beds with good soil dug out of the
> paths/water canals.
> Once built I won't be turning this soil further - will use mulch
and
> cover crops, but want to have producing veggie garden next year,
and its
> going to take time to get this land in good growing condition.
> Plus, I like very much the idea of having paths through my herbs
and
> veggie beds, of never actually
> walking on the growing bed, and having double use of the path for
water
> channel, letting water soak into
> good soil and roots, rather than watering from top.  Thinking of
> building a side ditch off the main drainage system, with a water
gate,
> so I can make direct use of the watershed, directing some of it
into my
> garden path/water channels.  The big portion of the land is
west/left of
> the pond.  Probably 5-6 acres total, presently in hay, with
drainage
> ditch bisecting it - ditch comes in at back northeast corner,
heads up
> through front southwest corner into neighbor's property.  The hay
has
> just been harvested.  I'm trying to decide what if anything to do
with
> the land this year, and am so unsure about timing and what I can
best
> due this year yet.  We're likely past the best of our spring rains
> here.  I could toss some seed before our closing, but if anything
> happens, I'd hate to have lost the upfront cost of the seed.  Soil
has
> been heavily used, and fertilized, and doesn't go deep, is clay
through
> much of it, and big stone slabs down about 4 feet throughout the
> property.  There are good but fairly young trees in place around
and
> spaced out directly behind the pond.  Hay area wide open.  I do
want to
> get some trees growing in there - any ideas of good
> trees, fast growing, deep roots, that would grow well in this
climate?
> I won't be using tractor or tilling or mowing at all.  Will do
whatever
> I do by hand and on foot, with scythe as needed.  Wondering if
there is
> any advice about good cover crop for this area?  One I could start
in
> late August or early September, over winter, to help stabalize and
feed
> the soil.  May do nothing but cover crops and trees for a couple
years
> on the west field area (back of which will have the new house in a
few
> years).  May do some grain production there - thinking of amaranth
> and/or quinoa, plus possibly rice.  My son and I can't eat wheat,
could
> use wheat as a cover crop, but not for harvest.  Veggie garden in
more
> protected area on back of property, east of pond and trees, just
south
> of the drainage ditch.  Any suggestions are more than welcome.
Thanks, Joy
>
> >
>