emagic2 : Messages : 7589-7618 of 7618

http://www.auntymdesigns.com/html/pocket_kids_2.html

Download the pencil design on the bottom of this page.

Watch it stitch to see how underlay can be used to add depth to a design. Extra underlay is added to the center section to give the design a 3-dimensional look. The key to understanding how it works would be to actually watch it stitch so you can see the different sections. Looking at it in the program does not show you the depth of the design.

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#7617

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:43 am
Subject: Re: underlay

auntyem999

Offline

Without knowing what you are working on, it can be difficult to provide a lot of suggestions. It is kind of like saying, "I want to make a chocolate cake. How do I begin?" There are as many different ways to make a chocolate cake as there are to add underlay to a design.

However, I can provide some general rules.

Underlay serves many purposes. How you use the underlay is determined by the color contrast from fabric to design, the size of the design, the type of digitizing tools you have selected, and the intended look of the final project.

1) Underlay helps to cover the fabric under the design.

2) It helps to keep the density down for the top section so the design does not become "bullet proof:".

3) It adds depth to the top section.

4) It can be used to add texture to a design.

5) It aids in compensating for the push and pull of the machine and thread on the fabric.

Here is more information that may help.

1) If a section is smaller than a dime, it needs underlay.

2) Underlay for complex fill should be done with complex fill. Do NOT use rows of running stitches.

3) Underlay should stitch in the opposite direction of the top stitches.

4) When necessary, use the running stitch to travel from the end of the underlay to the beginning of the top section.

5) When the stitch length for underlay is too long, it loops out under the top section and can be seen.

6) First, determine the direction of the stitches that will be seen (the top section) then create the underlay using the opposite direction.

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#7616

From: Holly Fujimoto <sendtoholly@...>
Date: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:08 am
Subject: underlay

sendtoholly

Offline

I was wondering..I have imported a picture, now I want to digitize it. I know that there has to be an underlay. What procedure do I go through to do an underlay? I will be using a straight line and complex fill. I have not seen any questions about this. This is my first attempt at digitizing, so please bear with me. It is probably right in front of my face !

Puzzled,

Holly Ann

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#7615

From: "Jennifer Wolf" <jenzazz@...>
Date: Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:45 pm
Subject: Re: copyright question

jenzazz

Offline

Hello Dee,
I have several of these Design Source books and have used them quite frequently
in my quilting. One designs I loved so much I even created two very different
quilts using the same image!
(Check out "Asian Secrets" and  "Asian Secret" on this page:

http://www.artgiftsetc.com/quilts1.htm

BTW- The borders,feathers and quilting lines for each of these quilts I created
using Embroidery Magic 2! I could never have done it without Aunty M's vast
knowledge of the program & willingness to share!)

  Yes, you can digitize 15 of their designs from that book. But, you are not
limited to only using 15 of the numerous designs. For instance---Their wording
is "15 of the
individual designs for any single graphic or craft project without the prior
permission of the
publisher".
  This means if you wanted to create several sets of designs to sell (or use for
yourself), you could use up to 15 of their designs in each set. Since each set
would be considered "a single craft project".
If you wanted to create a set of digitized designs and used 16 of their designs
from any 1 book, you would run into trouble.

If a teacher wanted to use any of the graphics in a classroom, she could create
a handout using up to 15 images on that handout. As long as she does not exceed
15 images on each assignment paper, she could make unlimited copies of the paper
to hand out to everyone in her class ad infinitum.

These Source books are wonderful for all kinds of applications. Even though I am
an artist and can draw, I love to use royalty-free images for inspiration in my
work. Please remember to give credit to the publisher whenever you use any of
these designs in anything you publish or post to the web.
Hope this helped!
Happy Holidays,
Jennifer Wolf

www.ArtGiftsEtc.com

--- In emagic2@yahoogroups.com, Margaret <auntym@...> wrote:
>
> Of course the real answer must come from the publisher.  But my very
> un-legal interpretation is that the "15 copies" refers to an
> individual image.  For example if you were a teacher and you used one
> image on an assignment paper, you could make 15 copies for your
> students.  If you had 16 students you could not use the image.
>
> Sine you are digitizing the image, you can stitch the design on 15
> garments but no more.  This means that you could not sell or give away
> the design either as that has the potential of being used more than 15
> times.
>
> It would be wise to look for wording about commercial use of the
> images.  I am sure the publisher would want to know your intentions
> for the design.  And they are not likely to be aware of what the
> process of digitizing for embroidery means.  So knowing what you
> intend to do with the digitized version of the image may determine
> your ability to use it.
>
> Margaret
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 13, 2009, at 10:55 AM, "deeberg6" <deeberg6@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I received a book titled "The Ultimate Design Source Book for
> > Crafters" for Christmas
> > last year.  It states on the back page that readers are permitted to
> > reproduce up to 15 of the
> > individual designs for any single graphic or craft project without
> > the prior permission of the
> > publisher.  Does that mean I can digitize up to 15 of their
> > designs?  I did e-mail the Company
> > but haven't heard from them.  Thank You, Dee
> >
> >
> >
>

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#7614

From: Margaret <auntym@...>
Date: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:25 pm
Subject: Re: copyright question

auntyem999

Offline

Of course the real answer must come from the publisher. But my very un-legal interpretation is that the "15 copies" refers to an individual image. For example if you were a teacher and you used one image on an assignment paper, you could make 15 copies for your students. If you had 16 students you could not use the image.

Sine you are digitizing the image, you can stitch the design on 15 garments but no more. This means that you could not sell or give away the design either as that has the potential of being used more than 15 times.

It would be wise to look for wording about commercial use of the images. I am sure the publisher would want to know your intentions for the design. And they are not likely to be aware of what the process of digitizing for embroidery means. So knowing what you intend to do with the digitized version of the image may determine your ability to use it.

Margaret

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 13, 2009, at 10:55 AM, "deeberg6" <deeberg6@...> wrote:

I received a book titled "The Ultimate Design Source Book for Crafters" for Christmas

last year. It states on the back page that readers are permitted to reproduce up to 15 of the

individual designs for any single graphic or craft project without the prior permission of the

publisher. Does that mean I can digitize up to 15 of their designs? I did e-mail the Company

but haven't heard from them. Thank You, Dee

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#7613

From: "deeberg6" <deeberg6@...>
Date: Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:55 pm
Subject: copyright question

deeberg6...

Offline

I received a book titled "The Ultimate Design Source Book for Crafters" for Christmas

last year. It states on the back page that readers are permitted to reproduce up to 15 of the

individual designs for any single graphic or craft project without the prior permission of the

publisher. Does that mean I can digitize up to 15 of their designs? I did e-mail the Company

but haven't heard from them. Thank You, Dee

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#7612

From: Peggy Nunn <pnunn11@...>
Date: Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:39 am
Subject: Re: How to edit lettering

pnunn11

Online Now

I am new to embroidering. I finally started studying the lessons this past summer and then quit. Now I have two questions about the file I saved back then.

1. What is the name of that font? I cannot find it in the listing of fonts available and I think I only have fonts bought from Aunty M.
2. How do I edit the text after I save the file to a dst format? If I select the text and right click, I get a selection about Running Stitch. I know I can right click and edit it before I save it, but what about after I come back to it and want to make a change?

Thanks so much for any help. I have attached the dst file for your reference.

Peggy

1 of 1 File(s)

ChristinaCup.dst

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#7609

From: "sarahandron" <sarahandron@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:54 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

guntersarah

Offline

1. center and filter short stitches

2. file save - saves as ppl file

files save as - saves as dst file

Think this is right.

Sarah

----- Original Message -----

From: Aunty M

To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 11:26 AM

Subject: [emagic2] A question for EM2 users

I thought it would be interesting to see if anyone knows the answer to these questions.

1) What are the last two steps before saving any design in EM2?

2) What is the difference in File - Save and File - Save As?

Everyone won't know the answers and that's OK. It is just an opportunity to learn more about how to use the program!

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7608

From: Debbie Forsythe <debbie645@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:41 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

debbie645

Offline

I see there are some replies but I'm going to answer before I look at those. (don't want to cheat on the test :)

1) save and delete short stitches

2)Save saves as ppl and save was saves as dst

From: Aunty M <auntym@...>
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 12, 2009 11:26:35 AM
Subject: [emagic2] A question for EM2 users

I thought it would be interesting to see if anyone knows the answer to these questions.

1) What are the last two steps before saving any design in EM2?

2) What is the difference in File - Save and File - Save As?

Everyone won't know the answers and that's OK. It is just an opportunity to learn more about how to use the program!

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7607

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:40 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

auntyem999

Offline

The only way to get see the original digitizing points in a design is to use File - Save to save the design. You won't see those points if you use File - Save As and then try to open the original file again. The original file must be saved with File - Save FIRST.

What measurement are you using? I use inches so 3.5 would definitely be too big. With inches, the size I prefer to use for redwork is 0.091".

It makes a difference whether you use the straight line or arched line. And the number of points you use is crucial. When you use the straight line, it uses the stitch length number between pairs of points. But if you add digitizing points within the line, it will "read" those digitizing points as a place to put a stitch. Sometimes you can use this to your advantage. Just remember that the points you use are seen as the default information for placing stitches. The secondary information is the stitch length number you selected.

The problem you see with many purchased designs is that the digitizer is not doing the work. The program is doing it. If a digitizer uses auto digitizing techniques, the program makes the decisions and it is "reading" the image rather than the information provided by the digitizer. EM2 does not do that. It relies on the information you give it to create a line. The image is only a visual template.

#7606

From: "deeberg6" <deeberg6@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:00 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

deeberg6...

Offline

I understand you Granny Goose. Nice to see there's someone else

that does the same thing I do. Dee

#7605

From: "deeberg6" <deeberg6@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:20 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

deeberg6...

Offline

I understand what Linda is talking about. When I use save or save as when I bring it

up again all the points I had adjusted returned to normal. Then I have to redo it.

What am I doing wrong? If I forget to filter the short stitches would that cause it?

Also, I have noticed when stitching an outline design like redwork, all the stitches

are not evenly spaced although I have stitches set to 3.5 length. It appears the

stitches become smaller around curves and sometimes on straight lines. Any one

know why this is? I have also seen it on a few CD designs I have bought.

Thank You, Dee

#7604

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:38 pm
Subject: Another new question

auntyem999

Offline

Name TWO ways you can change the measurement guide from inches to millimeters to centimeters to points. Remember, to get it right, you have to list two different ways to do it.

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#7603

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:37 pm
Subject: A NEW question for users of EM2

auntyem999

Offline

Yes, you are both right.

The patch at www.creativeseries.com does a lot more than change the background color of the screen, but that is the most obvious change. If you install the program on a new computer or change your operating system you definitely need the patch.

#7602

From: Linda Schautt <herky_love@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:28 pm
Subject: Re: A NEW question for users of EM2

herky_love

Offline

By importing/installing the patch...................

I had to do that the second time, after I went from

Window 98SE to Windows XP, this spring.

Linda in MI

From: Aunty M <auntym@...>
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 12, 2009 12:56:32 PM
Subject: [emagic2] A NEW question for users of EM2

So here is a NEW question for you.

And this question is only for users whose design screen is grey with a white box.

How can you change the design screen to solid white?

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7601

From: "Corey J. Burks" <cjburks@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:26 pm
Subject: Re: A NEW question for users of EM2

lt11alpha

Offline

Upgrade with the patch at pantograms website.

Corey J. Burks, Owner

LAN Street Design
6506 Floyd Street
Overland Park, KS  66202
Work: 913-871-4406
Fax: 913-871-4161

www.lanstreetdesign.com



Aunty M wrote:
>
>
> 
>
> So here is a NEW question for you.
>
> And this question is only for users whose design screen is grey with a
> white box.
>
> How can you change the design screen to solid white?
>
> Aunty M
> http://www.auntymdesigns.com <http://www.auntymdesigns.com>
>

#7600

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:56 pm
Subject: A NEW question for users of EM2

auntyem999

Offline

So here is a NEW question for you.

And this question is only for users whose design screen is grey with a white box.

How can you change the design screen to solid white?

#7599

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:53 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

auntyem999

Offline

You are correct April. Keeping all the files together in one folder is a great idea.

Keep in mind that you don't want file names to be too long. It wasn't long before EM2 was released that computers were still limited to just 8 characters for a file name. And file names really don't like special characters like punctuation marks. Instead of a space, use an underscore (found to the right of the zero key on your keyboard). While you don't have to limit a file name to 8 characters anymore, it is still a good idea to not make them really long.

#7598

From: "Granny Goose" <ggd@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

littlebobbie...

Offline

when I save a design, I use my first choice of name...if I have to go back and make significant changes I will add a letter or number to mark it as a different version of the same design...these (raw and format) are all stored in the same folder so as to find them when I need them...this has helped if I did not like my changes and want to try something different without messing up the new version as it may still be useful... I bet this is clear as mud right?

April

Granny Goose
http://www.grannygoosedesigns.net
http://www.thatembroideryplace.com/
http://www.embroideryadvertiser.com/

----- Original Message -----

From: Aunty M

To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 12:41 PM

Subject: Re: [emagic2] A question for EM2 users

You tidy up small stitches, and center the design.

If you just SAVE, it will mess up your original design,

therefore you always SAVE AS with anew name.

Linda, You are right about the first one, but not the second one. Yes, before you save a design using either File - Save or File - Save As you should center the design and filter the short stitches. This is especially true if you have made a design smaller than the original. Both of these features are found in the editing toolbar.

If you use File - Save it does not mess up your original design if you are using the feature correctly. And I usually do not use a different name for the File - Save As feature. It would be very rare for me to do that.

And that is why these two questions are important to discuss. It helps all of us to learn more about EM2.

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7597

From: Linda Schautt <herky_love@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:48 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

herky_love

Offline

OK, I was thinking about when I edit something on the original design.

I rahter be careful and SAVE AS with a new name, and keep a track of it, then I know which one is the design I have changed something on it.

But, I may mixing ornages wih apples.....................LOL

Linda in MI

From: Aunty M <auntym@...>
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 12, 2009 12:41:16 PM
Subject: Re: [emagic2] A question for EM2 users

You tidy up small stitches, and center the design.

If you just SAVE, it will mess up your original design,

therefore you always SAVE AS with anew name.

Linda, You are right about the first one, but not the second one. Yes, before you save a design using either File - Save or File - Save As you should center the design and filter the short stitches. This is especially true if you have made a design smaller than the original. Both of these features are found in the editing toolbar.

If you use File - Save it does not mess up your original design if you are using the feature correctly. And I usually do not use a different name for the File - Save As feature. It would be very rare for me to do that.

And that is why these two questions are important to discuss. It helps all of us to learn more about EM2.

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7596

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:48 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

auntyem999

Offline

1) I filter the short stitches and regenerate the stitches before I save a file.

2) The File Save feature saves the PPL version (which means you can go back in and edit your points if needed). The file Save As, saves the files as a DST file for your machine to read.

Beth, It is not necessary to use the "regenerate stitches" feature. Actually, I have not found that feature necessary at any time. It is quite unusual for me to use that feature. However, it is important to filter the short stitches. It gets rid of tiny stitches that just create knots and make it hard to stitch. You know your design needs this feature if your needle pops as it stitches the design.

You are right about the second question. File - Save gives you the "native" or original file so you can go back and make editing changes to the file. Even if you have imported a design in a stitch format and then added lettering to it, saving the design as a ppl file will still allow you to make changes to the lettering in the future. And this is where I would change the name of the file since it is no longer the same as the original file that was just a design. Now it has a new element--the lettering--and it may need to be edited. So, if I have a design that is labeled as fairy, I might change the new name to fairykim. (Can you tell I am working on a fairy project for my daughter Kim?!) This allows me to keep the original file intact without any changes made to it. Then I would save it again as a dst file so I could send it to my machine.

Many new users of EM2 do not understand the importance of saving BOTH as a ppl and as a dst. I hope this little exercise has helped everyone to understand more about how to save designs correctly.

#7595

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:41 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

auntyem999

Offline

You tidy up small stitches, and center the design.

If you just SAVE, it will mess up your original design,

therefore you always SAVE AS with anew name.

And that is why these two questions are important to discuss. It helps all of us to learn more about EM2.

#7594

From: "Beth McCord" <beth_mccord@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:38 pm
Subject: RE: A question for EM2 users

mccord_beth

Offline

1) I filter the short stitches and regenerate the stitches before I save a file.

2) The File Save feature saves the PPL version (which means you can go back in and edit your points if needed). The file Save As, saves the files as a DST file for your machine to read.

Beth McCord, Realtor®

Babcock & Associates, Inc.

ERA Sunrise Realty

Cell: 404-434-2970

Office: 770-720-1515

Fax: 678-731-1502

To see Becky's listings and more, visit us online at www.beckysrealestate.com

To Learn about the Seller Security Plan, give me a call at 404-434-2970

From: emagic2@yahoogroups.com [mailto:emagic2@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aunty M
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 12:27 PM
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [emagic2] A question for EM2 users

I thought it would be interesting to see if anyone knows the answer to these questions.

1) What are the last two steps before saving any design in EM2?

2) What is the difference in File - Save and File - Save As?

Everyone won't know the answers and that's OK. It is just an opportunity to learn more about how to use the program!

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7593

From: Linda Schautt <herky_love@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:35 pm
Subject: Re: A question for EM2 users

herky_love

Offline

You tidy up small sttiches, and center the design.

If yuou just SAVE, it will mess up your original design,

therfore you always SAVE AS with anew name.

Linda in MI

From: Aunty M <auntym@...>
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 12, 2009 12:26:35 PM
Subject: [emagic2] A question for EM2 users

I thought it would be interesting to see if anyone knows the answer to these questions.

1) What are the last two steps before saving any design in EM2?

2) What is the difference in File - Save and File - Save As?

Everyone won't know the answers and that's OK. It is just an opportunity to learn more about how to use the program!

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7592

From: "Aunty M" <auntym@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:26 pm
Subject: A question for EM2 users

auntyem999

Offline

I thought it would be interesting to see if anyone knows the answer to these questions.

1) What are the last two steps before saving any design in EM2?

2) What is the difference in File - Save and File - Save As?

Everyone won't know the answers and that's OK. It is just an opportunity to learn more about how to use the program!

#7591

From: <lolalynne@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:20 pm
Subject: Re: NorthFace looking design

lolalynne

Offline

Sue,

I don't embroider for profit. I don't own a business. I just have the embroidery machines because I like to do embroidery and sewing. I just like operating the machines. It's my hobby in the true sense of what a hobby is. It's not even a hobby/business. I do gifts and things I want to do. I never ever charge. I don't have to my future is secure.

Sometimes a friend will mention to a friend that I do it and they bring me little things to do. One time the local high school football team went to the play-offs and I did some sweatshirts and gloves for the players moms, It's such a delight to be able give these little presents.

I have always been a rebel of some sorts. I guess it's my southern heritage. I drove for years on expired license to protest the fees the state was charging. Then the state made it free for organs donors, I had my license renewed after that. There have been other examples of the rebel behavior in my life.

Yes, I have had to work and work hard in my life. I worked in factories most of my working life. There were times when I have worked a full time job and two part time jobs. I worked 40hrs. a week in a carpet factory and put myself through college. I know what a working woman goes through and that's why I help so much now. And if putting a lilttle embroidery on a jacket can help I will.

I own embroidery magic and embroidery magic 2 software, I just never learned the digitzing part of it. I mostly just add lettering to an exsisting design with it or change the size of a design. I hardly ever use them for that any more because the machines I have now will do it for me. It will probably take me all day to get the design digitized but I 'll do it.

Johnnie Hillman
--- On Sat, 12/12/09, Sue Renhard <sdrenhard@...> wrote:

From: Sue Renhard <sdrenhard@...>
Subject: Re: [emagic2] NorthFace looking design
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 4:58 AM

----- Original Message -----
From: lolalynne@yahoo. com
To: emagic2@yahoogroups .com
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [emagic2] NorthFace looking design

I no all the rules and regulations about copyright laws. But there are times
when rules must be broken, achild a chlid wants a certain kind of jacket for
Christmas, I'll do my part to help. And besides nothing is being sold. I am
paysomeonesomeone's time.

<snip>

They put the logo out there for recognition of their brand then all
flustered when someone uses it.

******** Well, 'ID theft' is as much an issue for big companies as it is for
individuals; I'm sure the North Face people want their brand on items a)
which are manufactured to their specifications, and b) for which they have
received compensation. I know that if my name is on a paycheck (payment
putting in my timeon the concret floor of the fabric store I work at), I
want to be the one who cashes it and pays my bills--not someone else.

***********
I don't need a lecture, I need a design.
Johnnie Hillman

******** Johnnie, asking someone to "break rules", can involve some dreadful
penalties. I heard of an embroiderer some years back (here in the Portland,
Oregon metro area) who had a small at-home business selling children's
clothes (I believe she sold at 'Saturday Market', where local artisans ply
their wares). She used Disney designs from cds she had purchased. Yes,
she had legitimately purchased them, but when Disney says "for personal use
only", they're not kidding. They caught her violating their terms of use.
She paid tens of thousands of dollars in fines, served jail time, and all
her sewing equipment (not just the cds she bought, but her embroidery
machine, etc.) was confiscated. I appreciate that you want to help out a
family at Christmas, but if someone violates copyright (or trademarks) to
digitize this for you, it might not be a very merry Christmas for them (and
yes, this can be an issue even if the embroidered item itself isn't sold).

I see people have made some suggestions for accomplishing your goal legally;
if that doesn't work, please don't be surprised if you can't find a
professional digitizer to accomodate you.

Sue

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (15)

#7590

From: Laura <juspeachy@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 3:58 pm
Subject: Re: Monogram feature - A lesson to print [1 Attachment]

babybunkinsb...

Offline

Thanks for this!

Can't wait to practice! �=)

-laura
http://www.babybunkinsboutique.com
http://twitter.com/juspeachy

'A baby is a blank cheque made payable to the human race.'

On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 7:20 PM, Aunty M <auntym@...> wrote:

�

[Attachment(s) from Aunty M included below]

Before we begin discussing how to use the monogram feature, let me provide the #1 rule about lettering.� Write it down somewhere.� Memorize it.� Just make sure you follow it.

�

The number 1 rule for lettering is this:

�

EVERY time you change a font name or the size of the characters (yes, EVERY time) you MUST go to the Stitch Generation tab and make appropriate changes to the density, stitch length, lock stitch, and underlay settings.

�

When do you do this?� EVERY time�you change the font name OR the size of the letters.

�

How do you know what the appropriate settings are?� Practice, practice, practice.�

Or you can look in the Aunty M folder at the files area of this list and print the lettering guidelines found there.� Or you can ask questions at the list.�

�

However, there are some questions you� need to answer first.

What font are you using?� Each font has different characteristics and some might work for a project but others won't.� It always depends on the font you have chosen.

What is the size of your lettering?� Some fonts work better at small sizes and some work better at large sizes.� Some fonts work better with certain fabrics and some don't work at all with certain fabrics.� This is where practice becomes important.� The more you practice, the more you learn about which settings work for different projects.

What is the fabric for your project?� Fabrics with a nap (pique knit, terry cloth, fleece, felt, etc.) require different settings.� Lightweight fabrics (baby clothes, quilting cotton, etc.) use different settings than other fabrics.

�

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

�

The monogram feature is found at the text screen on the�Alignment tab.� It is used to create a traditional three-letter monogram with the middle letter representing the last name.� If all of your characters are going to be the same size, you do not need to use the monogram setting.� This setting is only used to create a three-letter monogram with a larger middle letter.

�

�

When there is no check mark in the Monogram space, you can choose one character size at the Appearance tab.� But when the check mark is placed in the Monogram space, you are limited to just 3 letters.� However, you can set the size for each of the letters individually at the Appearance tab.

�

�

Each of the three character size settings applies to one letter.� Generally, you would want the middle letter to represent the last name and it should be approximately 25-33% larger than the other two characters.� The first and third characters should be the same size.

�

Once you have set the SIZE for each character, you need to access the Stitch Generation tab.� Remember the number 1 rule about lettering?� If you changed the size of the lettering, you MUST go to the Stitch Generation tab and make changes there.

�

�

If your 3-letter monogram is for a shirt cuff, the letters are small and need less density (stitches per inch) and a lower stitch length.

If your 3-letter monogram is for a towel, the letters will be big.� You will be trimming between each letter so you need to set lock stitches and a trim command for every letter--not for word.� You need more density to cover up the fat terry cloth.� You need more underlay to aid with holding down the loops on the terry cloth.� And if the letters are large, you need a longer stitch length.

�

Remember that some letters look better in certain fonts than others.� For example, as I worked with the letters that Laura suggested, I found the upper case M and P have very different widths.� In some fonts, the M was twice as wide as the P and just didn't look good at all.� I had to try many different fonts before I found one that I liked.� And since I didn't know what size Laura needed, I had to choose a size and work with that for choosing a font and the settings it needed.� Knowing that the project was going to be stitched on a fleece blanket told me that I needed more underlay and more density.� Both of those changes are made at the Stitch Generation tab.

�

Before saving the design, I followed the rules for saving a design.

FIRST, center the design.

SECOND, filter the short stitches.

THIRD,�save the design using File-Save to get a ppl file.

FOURTH, save the design using File-Save As to get the dst file.�

�

I have attached the monogram file as a dst file.� The font I selected was Hobby which is one of my original fonts for EM2 at this page:

http://www.auntymdesigns.com/html/aunty_m_fonts.html

If you own the hobby font and you want the file in ppl format, send me an e-mail OFF THE LIST and I will send you the file.� It will allow you to see all of the settings I used to create the lettering.

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com

#7589

From: Linda Schautt <herky_love@...>
Date: Sat Dec 12, 2009 3:55 pm
Subject: Re: Monogram feature - A lesson to print [1 Attachment]

herky_love

Offline

Hi AuntyM

Thank you so much............

Linda in MI

From: Aunty M <auntym@...>
To: emagic2@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, December 8, 2009 7:20:59 PM
Subject: [emagic2] Monogram feature - A lesson to print [1 Attachment]

Before we begin discussing how to use the monogram feature, let me provide the #1 rule about lettering. Write it down somewhere. Memorize it. Just make sure you follow it.

The number 1 rule for lettering is this:

EVERY time you change a font name or the size of the characters (yes, EVERY time) you MUST go to the Stitch Generation tab and make appropriate changes to the density, stitch length, lock stitch, and underlay settings.

When do you do this? EVERY time you change the font name OR the size of the letters.

How do you know what the appropriate settings are? Practice, practice, practice.

Or you can look in the Aunty M folder at the files area of this list and print the lettering guidelines found there. Or you can ask questions at the list.

However, there are some questions you need to answer first.

What font are you using? Each font has different characteristics and some might work for a project but others won't. It always depends on the font you have chosen.

What is the size of your lettering? Some fonts work better at small sizes and some work better at large sizes. Some fonts work better with certain fabrics and some don't work at all with certain fabrics. This is where practice becomes important. The more you practice, the more you learn about which settings work for different projects.

What is the fabric for your project? Fabrics with a nap (pique knit, terry cloth, fleece, felt, etc.) require different settings. Lightweight fabrics (baby clothes, quilting cotton, etc.) use different settings than other fabrics.

~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~

The monogram feature is found at the text screen on the Alignment tab. It is used to create a traditional three-letter monogram with the middle letter representing the last name. If all of your characters are going to be the same size, you do not need to use the monogram setting. This setting is only used to create a three-letter monogram with a larger middle letter.

When there is no check mark in the Monogram space, you can choose one character size at the Appearance tab. But when the check mark is placed in the Monogram space, you are limited to just 3 letters. However, you can set the size for each of the letters individually at the Appearance tab.

Each of the three character size settings applies to one letter. Generally, you would want the middle letter to represent the last name and it should be approximately 25-33% larger than the other two characters. The first and third characters should be the same size.

Once you have set the SIZE for each character, you need to access the Stitch Generation tab. Remember the number 1 rule about lettering? If you changed the size of the lettering, you MUST go to the Stitch Generation tab and make changes there.

If your 3-letter monogram is for a shirt cuff, the letters are small and need less density (stitches per inch) and a lower stitch length.

If your 3-letter monogram is for a towel, the letters will be big. You will be trimming between each letter so you need to set lock stitches and a trim command for every letter--not for word. You need more density to cover up the fat terry cloth. You need more underlay to aid with holding down the loops on the terry cloth. And if the letters are large, you need a longer stitch length.

Remember that some letters look better in certain fonts than others. For example, as I worked with the letters that Laura suggested, I found the upper case M and P have very different widths. In some fonts, the M was twice as wide as the P and just didn't look good at all. I had to try many different fonts before I found one that I liked. And since I didn't know what size Laura needed, I had to choose a size and work with that for choosing a font and the settings it needed. Knowing that the project was going to be stitched on a fleece blanket told me that I needed more underlay and more density. Both of those changes are made at the Stitch Generation tab.

Before saving the design, I followed the rules for saving a design.

FIRST, center the design.

SECOND, filter the short stitches.

THIRD, save the design using File-Save to get a ppl file.

FOURTH, save the design using File-Save As to get the dst file.

I have attached the monogram file as a dst file. The font I selected was Hobby which is one of my original fonts for EM2 at this page:

http://www.auntymdesigns.com/html/aunty_m_fonts.html

If you own the hobby font and you want the file in ppl format, send me an e-mail OFF THE LIST and I will send you the file. It will allow you to see all of the settings I used to create the lettering.

Aunty M
http://www.auntymdesigns.com