I am painting a two story house with basement and one of the bathrooms
had wallpaper on it. I got the wall paper off very easy which was a
shock. Now I need to know how to get the paste off the walls so I can
paint.
thanks

Back in the 1980's when "everybody" started layering white paint on
their fireplace bricks I figured we would come back to an era in which
painted fireplaces would not be considered "the" thing to do.  I
understand that there are some sealer types of products one can apply
before painting that will allow for easier paint removal in the future.

But, this whole situation reminds me of watching a TV show years ago in
which folks purchased perfectly fine, all wood furntiture and then
proceeded to "distress" it.  All I could do is turn to our most
functional, most ugly, mobile wood cupboard complete with paint chips
through multiple layers of different colored paint and a few dents. -
And to think folks were working hard to achieve that same look!

One of the things that I've come to realize is that some of the best
designer and interior decorator types are the people who are able to
take the less than ideal and spin it into their design.  I suspect that
we will be looking at whitened brick in some of the designer looks
within the next couple of years.  But, what I'm truly looking forward
to is when it become popular to take a perfectly good looking fireplace
and whiten it similarly to a fireplace that has had its white paint
removed as best as could be; which means flicks and flecks of white if
not more.

JASCO is a company that makes a number of strippers that are most
serious. They are so serious that the it is imperative to adhere to the
ventilation warnings. It is imperative to wear protective gloves and
skin protection.  And, it is imperative to wear honestly protective
eyewear; we've gone to the local Community College and picked up
goggles for use int he chemistry laboratory.

Tile is a medium and the "glue" for adhereing tile is tile cement.
After the tiles are adhered with the tile cement, grout is applied
between the tiles.

If you want to tile a space without cementing directly to the wall,
you might want to borrow from what some do with the upper-end,
artitist tiles.  What they do is that they adhere the tiles to a
bordered wood backing and then adhere the wood backing using screws.
Still, the tile is adhered to the wood using tile cement.

This approach would allow you the ease of working on a flat surface
placed at a (more) erogromically location than up a kitchen wall.  If
this were the approach that you chose to take, what I would do is cut
plywood to basically fit your area leaving room around the edges to
drill the wood into studs.  Tile the wood as desired; grout and then
seal the grout lines.  Screw the wood into place and into studs.
Cover the screw locations with trim glued into place.

Still, this solution would not be as simple as stated above.  I would
imagine that there would be a definite maximum expanse of wood that
could simply be screwed in around the edges. This would then require
more than one piece of wood.  You would have to locate the tiled wood
with respect to the studs and not just asthetics. There would still
be issues with getting a good seal between the counter tops and your
tiled wood pieces; just as with any "back splash" situation.  And,
you would have to consider just what else maybe going horizontally
through your studs at any given place such as wiring or plumbing.
Your wood borders would have to well sealed as this is a wet
environment.

I mentioned earlier that Easy Off Oven cleaner or its generic version
sold at the dollar stores works well as a paint remover.  Well, I
found that barbecue grill cleaner works nicely too.  I have to say
that the usual precautions on the label are in effect,  Sorry,
predatory lawyers.

I found another thing.  I needed to patch some holes in plaster board
and noticed that I had one of those muffler repair kits.  It just
worked beautifully.  After it dried, you could hardly see it and that
was before I plastered over it.

We discussed earlier about that gadget in those infomercials that they
used for cutting a hole in drywall, among other things.  I saw on a
home improvement show where you can buy a thing that looks like a
drill bit called a "spiral cutter".  They demonstrated cutting a hole
for an electrical outlet.

The easiest way is to sand back the area you want to tile and use a
tile adhesive. You don't need to sand all the way back but you will
want to get any loose chips of paint off before you start.

Have you considered having the wall rendered? It would just make the
wall look like a normal flat wall.

Lisa Franceschi

hello i am Yanie. and i am new in this group. i think this will be my
group cause i really love fixing things.
i want to put tiles on my walls but i dont like to use cement.. i dont
know how to do that
will you help me what to use use....so the tiles will be on my walls.
i am 9 years separated and am married to my children and devoted to my
work....i renovated my home having an extension to my kitchen. and it
tooks the carpenter 1 and a half month before they were done with
it...so my pocket seems empty and need furnishing.
so my 3 children said lets do it mom...instead of paying those turtle
lets do it. but we dont know how to use cement and dont like to use
one. will you help me in this one......my floor tile is red and the
paint used on my wall is minty green....so i dont like to repaint it
with glossy paint cause i really want to tile it....lend me your
knowledge.....

Have you checked out Freecycle on yahoo groups for your area?.. its a
group that give things away to keep things out of the local dumps/tips
in their area. You can place a wanted ad in for fencing and maybe have
a bit of luck, who knows.. Just thought I would put it out there for you.

Lisa

Since you are dealing with a backsplash, the existing wall surface will be fine. I always prefer to use what is known as green board (actually it's purple now!) on walls behind counter tops, and even better is cement board. But, if you put a consistent layer of mastic (here again, prefer thinset) on the wall the cover the surface completely, you'll be good to go. Be sure to grout the tile joints pushing the grout deeply into the joints and then seal with a good grout sealer. That should last you many years!
Doug
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Beth
Date: 11/13/2008 1:56:09 PM
To: craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [craftsmanhome] Removing tile
 

hello, We are getting new counter tops in our kitchen. I am now
removing all the old tile on the wall behind it that were glued on. It
is removing the top white layer of paper on the wall board. My
question is..... Do I need to now replace the wallboard? or is it
alright to place the new tile over this brown paper layer?

Thank you!!

Beth

 




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Tile countertops are about the least expensive and easiest to install
in my opinion. My husband and I did our kitchen ourselves. You can
screw a layer of 1/4 inch hardyplank over the existing counter and
then lay the tile on top. Laying tile is a little messy, but easy. A
tile saw can be rented for cuting the tile and Home Depot or Lowes
has all the supplies you'll need. If you have any questions you can
contact me at rene_debby@...
The very best to you,
Debby

--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, "hapelchill" <hapelchill@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm sorry that I don't have an answer for you about the tile, and I
> obviously don't know what your budget is, but I can recommend some
> kitchen counter replacement products may be cheap. Google search
for
> Corian countertops. From my experience this is a great (and
hopefully
> inexpensive) options for countertop replacement. Good luck!
>
> ---------------------------------------
> Have Home Improvement Issues? See if the Home Improvement Advisors
Can
> Help. Visit: http://www.homeimprovementadvisors.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, Beth <danbeth@> wrote:
> >
> > I have old vinyl yellow counters and a yellow sink (blah!). I
> > desperately want to get rid of the yellow. My hubby may be able
to
> > replace the sink but is there a way to lay tile or anything over
the
> > current counter tops that I can do myself? Everyone I ask at Home
> > depot gives me a new answer....
> > Thank you!!
> >
> > Beth
> >
>

It seems as if most of the services use one of two methods.  The first
is the vacuuming approach and the second is the chimney sweep/swab
approach.  Most in this area use the vacuum approach any more.  They
have a powerful vacuum motor and a flexible hose similar to a shop vac
but, 20 feet or more.  The swab approach includes a big bundle
of "rags" on a thick snake type thing or a stiff rod like a pipe.

I have old vinyl yellow counters...is there a way to lay tile or
anything over the current counter tops

Do you have vinyl or some type of a formica/hard sheet cover on your
counter-tops?  Either way, I would think that you would have to remove
at least your current surface if not the complete counter top. Whether
you replace with formica, tile, or other covering, you will need to
glue your new surface to the old.  Often gluing a second surface to an
existing surface doesn't work well.

It is not fully uncommon to glue a second formica surface to a pre-
existing formica surface. - If I remember correctly, "formica" is a
brand and/or specific product type.  What I'm refering to comes in
4'x8' sheets, comes in colors, is about 1/8" thick, is some what
flexible because of its thinness, has a definite top and bottom, the
top has a hard surface, and is reasonably brittle. -  To glue down a
second layer requires that the first layer be completely clean and free
of dirt, grease, and wax.  Often, one does some light sanding on the
pre-existing formica so that the glue can stick.  And even so, one must
address the issues of any back splashes and how to finish the front
edges.

However, I am unaware of any re-surfacing capabilities for "one piece"
counter top installations.  Typically, these include a pre-formed chip-
board or MDF type material which includes a back splash, the main
counter surface, and also the counter front edge.  These bends are
often formed by gently curved 90 degree angles.  A thin coat of formica
type material is applied at the factory.  These units are typically
sold in lengths and the 45 degree angles for fitting into corners is
done on site.  They are typically screwed into place on top of the
fully formed cabinet and/or cabinet componenets.  If this is what you
have, you will need to remove the entire counter top and replace with
similar.  Or, you will have to make a counter top out of plywood, chip
board, or MDF which you will then cover with a surface.  You will also
have to come up with a back splash and decide how to cover or surface
the counter edges.

If you do not have a "one piece" counter-top installed, your pre-
existing surface is probably glued to a board of some sort.  This board
may be plywood cut to shape or MDF.  Often this board is layed on top
of the cabinets and secured with screws or nails. The board may have
been covered before it was installed but, often it is covered after it
is installed.  Once the board with covering is installed, then any back
splashes are installed.  You may or may not remove the covering from
the board it is sitting on and then re-use it.  Reguardless, you must
first remove any back splashes and the sink basin.  If you want to tryu
to use the exising board, you must get out your chisels, hammer, and
solvents.  You need to remove the surface and any underlying glue such
that the board is smooth enough to glue your new surface to it without
ripples or warbles.  If the glue on the previous surface was good, this
may be hard to do.  If it was bad, the board itself may be damaged.
Your other option is to remove the board, pre-existing surface and all,
then replace the entire counter top.

All of these options are doable depending upon how the pre-existing
counter top was installed.  In terms of skills and tools, it is easiest
to fully replace the counter-top.  If the old surface doesn't readily
come come up, between time, chemicals, and potential damage to the
underlying board this option is not necessarily cheaper than a full
replacement.  I'm not sure that Corian, or a similar product, is
readily installed by a DYI. If you go for tiles, those glued to a mesh
are a little more expensive but much easier to work with.  The smaller
the tile, the less perfect and level the underlying surface must be.
When thinking in terms of back spashes, think a bit out of the box with
fully sealed 1"x4" or 1"x6" type boards; the best sealer is automotive
clear although it is a little harder to work with and a little more
expensive.  Other back splash options include granite, cut down floor
or other tiles, or even sheet copper or sheet steel bent over and
covering wood. - These options get cheaper if you can find someone
elses left-overs or discards.  Then, you need to think of the counter
edges/fronts.  In general, if you are using tile, the counter fronts or
edges are done in a different material, typically wood, which is
secured/glued down before the tiles are layed and raised to the heighth
of the installed tile so as to form a tray.

It is also not a bad idea to go ahead and expand the "window hole" as
todays homeowners value large windows (more natural light). This
could also pay dividends for re-sale value.



---------------------------------------
Got a Home Improvement Issue? visit:
http://www.homeimprovementadvisors.com


--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, "greene98360" <greene98360@...>
wrote:
>
>
> After shopping around with a friend, it seems as if replacement
windows
> tend to come in "contractor" or "custom" versions.  "Contractor"
> versions are pre-sized to newer sizes than what many of us with
older
> homes have.  "Custom" windows are what many of us are forced to buy
if,
> we want to be able to plop the purchased window into our existing
> "window holes".   Changing the size of your windows, which requires
> enlarging or reducing the existing "window hole" and much more, can
> actually reduce over-all costs; particularly if you are doing the
labor.
> Likewise, "custom" windows are often windows with more upper-end
> features; in your case the mid-window hinge for easy cleaning.
Where
> the cost of replacing windows starts to get seriously hefty is in
the
> installation costs despite the cost of the actual window.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, "usa_the_game" <usa_the_game@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Where did you go to get your windows priced? That is a lot of
money
> > for windows. If you are looking for aluminum windows with low
energy
> > glass go by Home Depot. I got mine there and I did not have to
pay to
> > much. They even had grilles on them. They come in either bronze,
> > white, or aluminum mill color. They averaged around 100 bucks.
> >
> > Rolando
> >
> > --- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, "Have A_nice_day"
> > halfof4is2@ wrote:
> > >
> > > I have the old 1930's type windows that slide up and down. I
saw one
> > > time where you can weather strip them yourself, which I did to
my
> > > bathroom window. I live in a moderate climate. I hate to shell
out
> > > $350+ each for custom windows. They don't sell them anyhwhere
near
> my
> > > size in stock.
> > >
> > > I'm wondering if anyone has invented a way to alter it so that
the
> > > window can be removed or tilted out for cleaning. I'm on a
second
> > > floor and I have arthritis and can't climb a ladder.
> > >
> >
>

I'm sorry that I don't have an answer for you about the tile, and I
obviously don't know what your budget is, but I can recommend some
kitchen counter replacement products may be cheap. Google search for
Corian countertops. From my experience this is a great (and hopefully
inexpensive) options for countertop replacement. Good luck!

---------------------------------------
Have Home Improvement Issues? See if the Home Improvement Advisors Can
Help. Visit: http://www.homeimprovementadvisors.com




--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, Beth <danbeth@...> wrote:
>
> I have old vinyl yellow counters and a yellow sink (blah!). I
> desperately want to get rid of the yellow. My hubby may be able to
> replace the sink but is there a way to lay tile or anything over the
> current counter tops that I can do myself? Everyone I ask at Home
> depot gives me a new answer....
> Thank you!!
>
> Beth
>

Beth,
It depends. If you are not going to put new tile back up, I would do
what they call a "skim coat" of sheet rock mud over the brown areas.
Basically, you just take a wide putty knife and sheet rock mud and
apply a very thin coat over the brown areas. This way your walls are
flat and even. If you are going to use put new tile back up using
grout, there is no need to put a skim coat on, because the grout will
fill in the uneven areas. Hope this helps.

Darrell
--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, Beth <danbeth@...> wrote:
>
> hello, We are getting new counter tops in our kitchen. I am now
> removing all the old tile on the wall behind it that were glued on.
> It is removing the top white layer of paper on the wall board. My
> question is..... Do I need to now replace the wallboard? or is it
> alright to place the new tile over this brown paper layer?
> I hope I don't confuse you too much :)
>
> Thank you!!
>
> Beth
>

--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, Beth <danbeth@...> wrote:
>
> I am removing all the old tiles that were glued on. It is removing
the top white layer of paper on the wall board. My
> question is..... Do I need to now replace the wallboard? or is it
> alright to place the new tile over this brown paper layer?

Actually the new tile will stick better to the brown layer than the
paper layer.

Does anyone know how to throughly clean heating vents/ducts out with
out calling someone in to do it for you, and pay $$$$$$.

I know that the duct work is sealed downstairs, so it would have to be
through the vent, I tried vaccuuming it but it does not get all the
way in.

thanks

hello, We are getting new counter tops in our kitchen. I am now
removing all the old tile on the wall behind it that were glued on. It
is removing the top white layer of paper on the wall board. My
question is..... Do I need to now replace the wallboard? or is it
alright to place the new tile over this brown paper layer?

Thank you!!

Beth

--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Padua <halfof4is2@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks for your information.  I got to thinking that even if they
made a small circular saw blade that would fit on a drill, it
would "walk" or "skate".  The one shown on TV that vibrated back and
forth, kept that from happening.
>
> I was replacing a strip of hardwood flooring here and there.  I
needed to cut the old board out.  It sounds easy, but it's not.  You
have to cut the old piece right where it's being supported.  An
ordinary reciprocating saw won't work because the blade would go
down and bang into the 2 X 8.  I ended up using a wood chisel, which
was tedious.
>
> Several guys told me to use a circular saw and make a plunge cut. 
I tried that and it jerked and skated too much.
>
you should  drill the plank first making a row of holes with a auger
bit up to a line that you intend to cut. it would save a lot of work
with the chisel.

hello, We are getting new counter tops in our kitchen. I am now
removing all the old tile on the wall behind it that were glued on.
It is removing the top white layer of paper on the wall board. My
question is..... Do I need to now replace the wallboard? or is it
alright to place the new tile over this brown paper layer?
I hope I don't confuse you too much :)

Thank you!!

Beth

I think I know the info-mercial you're speaking of.  If so, the tools
they show is a cross between a "Dremel" and a "sawsall".

A sawsall is sort of a super drill that only accepts a blade for back
and forth movement/cutting.  Of course, it is a power tool and you can
see on in any type of a more serious tool department.

Dremel is one of the more well known "rotary tools" and comes in a
variety of sizes, rpms, hp, corded, and battery operated.  About 5-10
years a go, it had a serious competitor that also got a lot of info-
mercial coverage...I'm trying to remember the name of it but, I think
it was called the "Rotary Zip".  What ever the name of the big time
competitor, it was developed to help cut sheet rock.  And since then,
there have been a number of variants of slightly different types and
widely different specs.  In generall, all of these rotary tools have a
round shaft that holds the motor and some type of a human hand hold.
Different bits, saw blades, sanding drums, and other attachments fir
into the end. Like a drill, some are variable speed and some are not.
Some of these attchments will interchange into other brands of motors
and some will not.

Needless to say, the general concept of many of these rotary tools is
much the same as that of a drill.  And, out on the market there are a
growing number of attachments for each.

The question is, what is it you need or project yourself to need to
do?  And then, what are your requirements? Once you have some sort of
idea, then head down to some tool departments for some window shopping
of both the rotary tool types and their attachments.  My general bias
is that often a number of the battery powered products aren't as useful
for the periodic week-end warrior.  You have to keep up with charing
the battery but, not too often or too long.  The less expensive ones
just aren't worth the money.  Better to spend less on the motor/tool on
a corded model then use those savings towards a more varried set of
attachments as needed.

Has anyone used one of those cutting tools shown on that TV
infomercial?  It looks like a drill and has a small blade that
viabrates back and forth.  They demonstrated it cutting molding where
you don't have to remove it from the door.  They cut a square in dry
wall, etc. for an electrical box.

I'm wondering if there is such a blade that would go on your electric
drill.  It would be the size and shape of a silver dollar.  Seems like
a much cheaper alternative.

As long as your old wall paper does not have any wrinkles, you can put
paper over it. I always take down the old paper. It is fairly easy.
Just use a spray bottle filled with warm water. Spray a 2 foot by 2
foot area and let it sit for about 10 minutes. The warm water will
dissolve the glue. Then use your putty knife to pull the paper away
from the wall.

--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, "rancefordsk" <rancefordsk@...>
wrote:
>
> Should I remove old wall paper before putting up new wall paper?
>

--- In craftsmanhome@yahoogroups.com, "rancefordsk" <rancefordsk@...>
wrote:
>
> Should I remove old wall paper before putting up new wall paper?
>
I think it's best if you remove the old paper before installing new
paper. Don't want to get the new paper installed and have the old paper
come loose because it wasn't adhering well.
The best to you!
Debby