ERIC...WELCOME TO OUR BOARD....AND IF YOU DON`T MIND I`D LIKE TO HAVE
YOU FIELD THIS QUESTION.....SEEING AS YOU ARE IN THE PROCESS OF
BUILDING RIGHT NOW.
                 CAN YOU GIVE PEOPLE AN IDEA OF YOUR COSTS PER SQUARE
FOOT?ALSO...WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN THE COST PER SQUARE FOOT HAD YOU
GONE STICK FRAME[CONVENTIONAL HOUSE]?....THANKS!
                ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE GOT SOME NEW FIGURES? MINE ARE
SLIGHTLY DATED...PULPWOOD HAS JUST DOUBLED IN PRICE IN THE LAST FEW YEARS.


                   CORDially YOURS
                     CORDWOODGUY

I HOPE ROB ROY HASN`T LEFT US...BUT I BELIEVE HE JUST
UNSUBSCRIBED TO CUT DOWN ON HIS E-MAIL WHILE HE WAS AWAY.
HE MENTIONED THIS TO ME RECENTLY AS I WAS UNCERTAIN AS TO
HOW TO STOP THE E-MAIL FOR THAT PERIOD...I`VE SINCE FIGURED
IT OUT.
           I WAS HONORED THAT HE WAS THE FIRST TO REGISTER HERE BEING
A WELL RESPECTED CORDWOOD FOUNDING FATHER...AND AUTHOR OF MANY BOOKS
ON THE SUBJECT. AN ASSET TO THIS AND ANY OTHER CORDWOOD BOARD....
PLEASE WATCH FOR FURTHER POSTS BY ROB IN THE NEAR FUTURE...[SOMETIME
AFTER MAY]THERE IS NO ONE MORE LISTENED TO ON THE SUBJECT OF
CORDWOOD...

                      CORDWOODGUY
PS:LETS HOPE HE WILL BE BACK TO GRACE US WITH HIS PRESENCE
AND EXPERTISE AGAIN AFTER HIS VACATION.....FOR NOW WE`LL
AWAIT HIS RETURN.

Yes, Larch, thats' the synonym here for Tamarack. I will follow the
advice you mentioned about locating it. I am hoping to follow a similar
schedule myself with land aquisition, log purchase, and seasoning. I was
refering to embedded rafter vs, sitting on top of a contiguous plate on
a cordwood wall, with those "filler" logs.  I consider this the most
strong and simple, yet admitting I am no Engineer.
KISS is def my mantra. I want this cheap, strong, and simple, which it
what will make it beautiful. Post and beam is not an option, alhtough i
won't argue it should be strong. My reasons to avoid it are that I am
not a huge man, so lifting 8x8s, doubled no less, sounds like a bad
time. Farming the work out, resulting in a roof ahead of construction is
an attractive option, but costly. The wood itself is milled lumber, of
course, and is therefore more expensive then continous cordwall.
The only p[lace I want to spare no expense is foundation. We have more
mild winters, but preparing for the rare worst of worst is no bad
option. Heated floors by means of water will probably not be an option
for me, as I consider it extra plumbing, and therefore complicated, for
some this might be utter simplicity. Whren you say thatch and sod
roofing, are you refering in any way to earth roofing?> I am refering to
the Earthwood roof in my proposed contruction.
Are the motar mixes in Rob Roys book the best in your experience? And
for insulation? Vermiculite sounds like a great idea, although not very
cheap, and hazardous to human health when dry, and it would need to be
just that.
i*

First: House design....
No post and beam, just a load bearing structure. In
the centre is a Russian or masonry stove. The 1st
floor joists radiate out from this to the walls like
wheel spokes. Foundation is laid over 2 inch styrofoam
and is 24 inches wide and about 12 inches deep, 2 runs
of rebar throughout. I build in three seasons as we do
get winter here but they are not as severe as yours -
no ice storms thankfully! I am having problems coming
up with a roof design. I don't want it to look like a
Butler grain building. Any sugestions? Thanks for the
recomendation on the book. I'll try the local library
system....
--- dee@... wrote:
> Dear Daniel,
>
> Very good, it is the picton area.  I lived in
> Toronto for 20 years give or
> take and found that busy.
>
> My place well...I can stand at the bottom of my
> property first thing in the
> morning and hear nothing but the ice sing.  It can
> be busy at work but I am
> very good at becoming not busy when I get home.
> THough the animals do
> encourage a certain level of activity and always
> starting at 6 in the
> morning.  I found that getting rid Of my TV and
> writing letters instead of
> always using the faster methods of communication has
> really helped me keep
> my sanity.
>
> How long has it taken you to get the 8 feet up and
> how do you work with the
> seasons if it is takeing you more than one cycle to
> build?  Are you using a
> lad bearing or post and beam design?  What sort of
> foundation do you have?
>
> Building in animal spaces is in my mind too.  Deep
> window sills at all
> levels so the felines can survey their domain with
> the dignity they demand!
> Have you ever read "A Pattern Language"?  It is all
> about building VERY
> livable living spaces.  Wonderful.
>
> I wish you luck and keep me updated with helpful
> hints
>
> dee hazell
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: dee@...
Reply-To: cordwood@egroups.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 16:54:04 -0500
Hi Dee;  Spring is no problem, the lake is about 10 miles from our homesite (you
can sort of see it from the house roof).  My house is round, actually 18 sided,
so the wind goes around it. Most of my windows are new factory reject
replacement windows (low E, argon filled, vinyl and huge 3' x 6' double hung 18
of them for $1000) I'm not done with the cordwood so some wind goes through the
house but the windows don't rattle at all even with 40mph gusts.
Have a great day. -Jim-
>Dear Jim,  You are almost in the neighbourhood.  I will certainly come to
>visit.  I have travelled the 81 a few times in the winter.  I think I will
>visit in the spring OK?  Are you very near the water and if so how do you
>work with the wind?  Any special design considerations?  I know it is not
>like the Oregon coast or anything...although tonight all my windows are
>rattling.
>
>dee hazell>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>

Hi,
I just joined this list, and haven't read the archive (if there is one). Is
this a new list? How many are we?

I'm about 3/4 done with a pretty large cordwood house in central Maine.
There are photos on my website (see signature-block), but they're woefully
out-of-date. As soon as I figure out why my new scanner won't work for me,
I'll post some new photos.

The house is a double split-level, with a second floor above the lowest
end, on a hillside, with two curved walls and one straight wall. The
outline is more or less that of a gothic arch.

I'm really interested in sharing tips, photos, resources, etc., so I hope
this is a chatty list!

Regards,
Eric Robbins

Apple Valley Books
37 Main Street, Winthrop, ME 04364
(207) 377-3967
applebooks@...
http://www.ctel.net/~applebooks/

DEE...I APPROVED ALL THE POSTS...BUT YOUR ONE TO ME DIDN`T POST FOR
SOME REASON???ANYONE ELSES????MAYBE IF I RE-BOOT???

          I`LL WING IT FROM MEMORY.....THE DETAIL I SEE IN
CONSTRUCTION USUALLY FOR A FLOATING SLAB...SHOWS THE FLOOR RAISED
ABOVE OUTSIDE GRADE...ALLOWING FOR SPLASH GUARD....THIS IS REALLY
IMPORTANT.[IF YOU BUILD LOWER TO THE GROUND THE BOTTOM LOGS WOULD GET
WET AND SWELL...IF CONSTANTLY WET OVER 19% MOISTURE THEY WOULD
ROT.THEY WOULD BE EXPOSED TO RAIN AND SNOW CONSTANTLY.]ALSO BUILD A
GOOD OVERHANG ON YOUR ROOF....ANYTHING YOU DO TO KEEP THE RAIN OFF
YOUR HARDWOOD WALLS WILL BE WORTH THE BOTHER....
                I PREFER SINGLE STORY HOMES AS WELL BECAUSE THE
ONERHANG WOULD OFFER MORE PROTECTION...GOING TWO STORIES EXPOSESS
MORE LOG WALL TO THE WEATHER.....IF YOU HAVE CRACKS/LEAKS IN YOUR
WALL THE RAIN CAN BE SUCKED INTO THE WALL CAVITY.....THERE IS A
NEGATIVE PRESSURE CREATED INSIDE YOUR HOUSE AND IT LITERALLY SUCKS
THE RAIN IN...THE MORE HEIGHT IN YOUR WALL THE MORE LIKELY THIS CAN
HAPPEN.
          YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT USING ALL HARDWOOD SPECIES....YES YOU
ONLY WANT TO SEASON THEM A BIT...SEE ROB`S POST IN OSAGE ORANGE
.......SWELLING IS WORSE THAN SHRINKING [SHRINKING WILL NOT BLOW YOUR
WALL OUT]BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO CAULK ALL YOUR LOGS...ONCE THEY SEASON
A LITTLE MORE WITH A FLEXABLE CAULKING LIKE PERMA-CHINK. [DON`T PUT
THE PERMA-CHINK OVER THE MORTAR AS THE MORTAR HAS TO BREATH...
WHENEVER THEY SEAL MORTAR IN A WALL IT USUALLY LEEDS TO ROT
INSIDE....BECAUSE OF DEW POINT YOU GET MOISTURE[CONDENSATION] IN THE
COLD DAMP WEATHER WHERE COLD AND HEAT MEET ...THEN IN WARMER WEATHER
THE MOISTURE PASSES OUT OF THE WALL AS MORTAR IS VAPOUR
PERMIABLE...[MOISTURE TRAVELS FROM AN AREA OF HIGH HUMIDITY TO AN
AREA OF LOWER HUMIDITY]CONCRETE IS NOT....IT`S ALL PART OF THE FREEZE
THAW CYCLE....IF YOU SEAL THE MORTAR THE MOISTURE BUILD UP IN IT
COULD FREEZE AND DAMAGE THE WALL...]....REMEMBER CUTTING THEM IN
DECEMBER...AND PEELING THEM IN MARCH WOULDN`T CONSTITUTE
SEASONING...THE LOGS WOULD BE DORMANT AND FROZEN FOR MOST OF THAT
TIME.
          I`M A LITTLE UNCERTAIN ABOUT THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRATY OF A
WALL THAT THE LOGS ARE LAYING LOOSELY INSIDE THE MORTAR AND HELD
TOGETHER BY CAULKING ONLY.[IF YOU GET THE MAXIMUM SHRINKAGE YOU COULD
THEORETICALLY PULL THE LOGS OUT OF THE WALL]....I PERSONALLY SHY AWAY
FROM HARDWOOD IN CORDWOOD BECAUSE IT`S TRICKIER THAN USING SOFTWOOD
....ALSO LESS INSULATION VALUE..THATS MY PERSONAL VIEW...BUT PEOPLE
CAN DO WHATEVER THEY WANT
          I`D TRY TO USE UNDER 7" DIAMETER LOGS...LESS RADIAL
SHRINKAGE THAN LARGER LOGS....LESS CHECKING[CRACKING]NOW THE LARGER
LOGS 30" DIAMETER IF YOU SPLIT THEM WOULD DRY FASTER...THE PROBLEM I
HAVE WITH SPLITTING LOGS IS THEY LEAVE MORE FLAT AREAS IN YOUR WALL.
HERE MOISTURE CAN GET IN AND LAY AND ROT THE WOOD...THE TRADITIONAL
ROUND LOGS WOULD SHED IT BETTER AND ABSORB LESS....YOUR CAULKING
SHOULD HELP YOU HERE AS WELL...AS LONG AS YOU GET A GOOD BOND.
         ANOTHER PROBLEM I`D WORRY ABOUT IS THE SPLIT LOG`S CORNER
EDGES....WOULD BE QUITE SHARP...THEY MIGHT ACT AS LITTLE WEDGES WHEN
THE HARDWOOD GETS WET AND SWELLS...I`D JUST ROUND THEM OFF A BIT TO
BE SAFE TO AVOID UNNECESSARY CRACKING OF THE MORTAR.
         NOW YOU SAID...YOU WERE GOING TO BUILD THE BOTTOM OF THE
WALLS WITH STRAW BALE....AND PUT CORDWOOD ON TOP.STRAW BALE ISN`T
LOAD BEARING AND CORDWOOD IS HEAVY[16"CORDWOOD WALLS RUN 30 LBS PER
CUBIC FOOT...24"RUNS ABOUT 58 LBS PER CUBIC FOOT...I BELIEVE THESE
FIGURES WERE POSTED ON OTHER BOARDS]ALSO CHECK OUT THIS REPORT
ON STRAW BALE .... http://www.efn.org/~apro/strawbale.html
         REMEMBER THE DEW POINT WOULD ALSO ATTACK NOT ONLY THE SIDES
BUT MOISTURE WOULD TRAVEL UP FROM YOUR FOOTING AND ATTACK THE BOTTOM
OF THE BALES....20% MOISTURE AND YOU HAVE ROT...STRAW ABSORBS
MOISTURE.
               CORDially YOURS
                 CORDWOODGUY
PS:I SAW THE POST FINALLY!

Dear Jim,  You are almost in the neighbourhood.  I will certainly come to
visit.  I have travelled the 81 a few times in the winter.  I think I will
visit in the spring OK?  Are you very near the water and if so how do you
work with the wind?  Any special design considerations?  I know it is not
like the Oregon coast or anything...although tonight all my windows are
rattling.

dee hazell>>
>>
>

Dear Corwood Guy, I have one of Rob Roys book already, the lates.  I have
also taken out all the books on cordwood in the whole library system!  I
have been to visit the cordwood house up near Bancroft.  I spent the morning
talking to the builders/designers.  I have about 20 acres of hardwood.
There is quite a selection there..maple, beech, oak and a bunch I can't
recognize.  According to the reading I have done, it is best not to season
hardwood all that long.  Otherwise you get a huge prblem with expansion.
The posts and beams I will be using however, have been seasoned for about
100 years at least.  The trees I will be using are the smaller. I am
thinking of the 6-12 inch variety.  I have several huge downed trees that
have been uprooted over the past 3 years by all this weird weather we have
been having.  Some of these suckers are upwards of 30 inches in diameter.  I
could have them cut into 8-10 foot sections and hauled out then locally
milled for boards and use it for flooring or walls if it is too dry or big
for stackwall.

As for having the slab off the ground.  This I have never heard of.  I was
going to do the floating slab to get around posts or foundation to below the
frost line and all that stuff.  Then on the slab I could do the first two
feet in strawbale and mortor in quickly.  Once that is in place then I could
work the stackwall for the remaining2 sides.  The north and westish sides of
my house as I speak are being pounded by winds.   I was going to do only a
few windows and strawbale on those sides and stackwall with lots of
interesting windows and views on the other two.
>

I am going to have an overhang disguised as a veranda roof around the first
storeyat about 8 feet and then a good overhang at the top roof line.  These
are just some of my ideas.  The more I think, the more I think I have to
think of!!Thanks for your input and ideas

hunkering down in the storm    dee hazell
>

Dear Daniel,

Very good, it is the picton area.  I lived in Toronto for 20 years give or
take and found that busy.

My place well...I can stand at the bottom of my property first thing in the
morning and hear nothing but the ice sing.  It can be busy at work but I am
very good at becoming not busy when I get home.  THough the animals do
encourage a certain level of activity and always starting at 6 in the
morning.  I found that getting rid Of my TV and writing letters instead of
always using the faster methods of communication has really helped me keep
my sanity.

How long has it taken you to get the 8 feet up and how do you work with the
seasons if it is takeing you more than one cycle to build?  Are you using a
lad bearing or post and beam design?  What sort of foundation do you have?

Building in animal spaces is in my mind too.  Deep window sills at all
levels so the felines can survey their domain with the dignity they demand!
Have you ever read "A Pattern Language"?  It is all about building VERY
livable living spaces.  Wonderful.

I wish you luck and keep me updated with helpful hints

dee hazell

Hi ya'll,
Thanks for the feedback on osage.  I am going to try a test wall
after the weather breaks some and I am going to use the osage fairly
green.  I'll let you know what happens.  eb

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
Hi Jay & Pete,  Papercrete is a mixture of recycled paper and some type of
cement product.  I've been experimenting with several mixtures while building my
cordwood home.  My mix is about 80% (by volume) paper sludge and 20% type 'n'
masonry cement.  I made it initially by pulping newspapers and mixing the
drained pulp with the cement with a 1/2" drill and spackle mixing blade, but the
sludge is easier to shovel out of the dumpster at a local paper mill; it's the
coarser paper fibers that get screened out during the papermaking process.  I
wanted a mixture that I could spread fully across the cordwood that would also
have a high insulative value. Alan@... has an interview that I did for
him that explains things a bit further.  Also find Taylor publishing for further
info on papercrete or read my paper in the collected papers of the 1999 CoCoCo. 
Feel free to visit if you want to see what we've done near Watertown, NY.  Our
cordwood is about 70% done.  -Jim-

From: "Moore, Jay" <moorej@...>
Reply-To: cordwood@egroups.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 11:28:08 -0500

>Hi,
>
>I'm Jay and my brother, Peter, and I have plans afoot to build a cordwood
masonry cottage on a lake near Parry Sound, ON - 30 ft. diameter, 2 storey, 18"
white cedar cordwood. We've got
>preliminary plans, a building permit and the cedar is cut and drying on
Manitoulin Island 'til summer 2002. Of the two couples, there is always at least
one of us at any point that thinks
>we're nuts to be doing this but we're forging ahead. We've got Rob Roy's book
and the video, we've been to see two places and talked to the owner/builders and
we hope to take the course with
>Mr. Roy. I'm glad you're all out there and I'll be staying on the line.
>
>One question to James Juczak: what is papercrete?
>
>Jay
>
>James Juczak wrote:
>
>> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>> From: dee@...
>> Reply-To: cordwood@egroups.com
>> Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 18:01:42 -0500
>>
>> >Hello There
>> >
>> >I am new to this group.  Let me introduce myself.  My name is Dee and I live
>> >in Prince Edward County on the north shore of Lake Ontario.  I can see the
>> >lake from my kitchen window in all seasons and when the trees are bare, from
>> >my back yard.  I bought this 100 acre farm 2 years ago.  There is a small
>> >house here and this is what I call home now.  I share my home with 3 dogs
>> >and 3 cats.
>> >
>> >Hopefully this spring I will be pouring the slab for my new house.  My hope
>> >is that it will be energy independant with solar and wind generated power
>> >heated with a masonary stove.  I plan to do grey water, composting toilet
>> >and the whole  bit.  I have about 30 acres of woods from which I plan to
>> >harvest the trees for the cordwood walls.  I plan on doing a
>> >strawbale/cordwood combo, almost round in shape with post and beam
>> >contruction.  It will be a short 21/2 storey, about 1800sq ft I think....
>> >The beams will be taken from my falling down barn.  I am planning on a steel
>> >roof.  I have taken a few field trips around the area and found both
>> >stackwall homes and strawbale with solar and wood heat.  If anyone out there
>> >has any suggestions for how to move from here.  That would be great. I
>> >already have a book on how to build both strawbale and  stackwall.  I have
>> >spoken to and shared coffee and ideas with an architect.  Things are stalled
>> >at the moment.  I think it has something to do with the cold!  Any words of
>> >encouragemnt to spark the dream again into life would be wonderful.  Take
>> >care all and looking forward to getting to know some of you.
>> >
>> >dee hazell
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Hi Dee;  I'm building just around the corner (eastern shore of Lake Ontario)
from you; near Watertown, NY.  I'm using post & beam/round/cordwood and
papercrete...You're welcome to visit.
>> jsjuczak@... for more info. -Jim-
>> >
>> >

O.K. Thanks for the info....I really like the attitude
of the posts and postings, a great group!
--- GUY CORDWOOD <cordwoodguy@...> wrote:
> DANIEL...ROB IS AWAY FROM HOME AND HE WILL BE ON
> VACATION FOR A FEW
> MONTHS.SO DON`T BE SURPRISED IF YOU DON`T GET A
> REPLY RIGHT AWAY.HE
> PROBABLY WON`T SEE YOUR POST UNTIL MARCH...I
> BELIEVE.WHEN HE GETS BACK
>  HOME.
>                          CORDWOODGUY
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/

Hi,

I'm Jay and my brother, Peter, and I have plans afoot to build a cordwood
masonry cottage on a lake near Parry Sound, ON - 30 ft. diameter, 2 storey, 18"
white cedar cordwood. We've got
preliminary plans, a building permit and the cedar is cut and drying on
Manitoulin Island 'til summer 2002. Of the two couples, there is always at least
one of us at any point that thinks
we're nuts to be doing this but we're forging ahead. We've got Rob Roy's book
and the video, we've been to see two places and talked to the owner/builders and
we hope to take the course with
Mr. Roy. I'm glad you're all out there and I'll be staying on the line.

One question to James Juczak: what is papercrete?

Jay

James Juczak wrote:

> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: dee@...
> Reply-To: cordwood@egroups.com
> Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 18:01:42 -0500
>
> >Hello There
> >
> >I am new to this group.  Let me introduce myself.  My name is Dee and I live
> >in Prince Edward County on the north shore of Lake Ontario.  I can see the
> >lake from my kitchen window in all seasons and when the trees are bare, from
> >my back yard.  I bought this 100 acre farm 2 years ago.  There is a small
> >house here and this is what I call home now.  I share my home with 3 dogs
> >and 3 cats.
> >
> >Hopefully this spring I will be pouring the slab for my new house.  My hope
> >is that it will be energy independant with solar and wind generated power
> >heated with a masonary stove.  I plan to do grey water, composting toilet
> >and the whole  bit.  I have about 30 acres of woods from which I plan to
> >harvest the trees for the cordwood walls.  I plan on doing a
> >strawbale/cordwood combo, almost round in shape with post and beam
> >contruction.  It will be a short 21/2 storey, about 1800sq ft I think....
> >The beams will be taken from my falling down barn.  I am planning on a steel
> >roof.  I have taken a few field trips around the area and found both
> >stackwall homes and strawbale with solar and wood heat.  If anyone out there
> >has any suggestions for how to move from here.  That would be great. I
> >already have a book on how to build both strawbale and  stackwall.  I have
> >spoken to and shared coffee and ideas with an architect.  Things are stalled
> >at the moment.  I think it has something to do with the cold!  Any words of
> >encouragemnt to spark the dream again into life would be wonderful.  Take
> >care all and looking forward to getting to know some of you.
> >
> >dee hazell
> >
> >
> >
> >Hi Dee;  I'm building just around the corner (eastern shore of Lake Ontario)
from you; near Watertown, NY.  I'm using post & beam/round/cordwood and
papercrete...You're welcome to visit.
> jsjuczak@... for more info. -Jim-
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> cordwood-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Daniel,
      Thank you for your kind words. I am leaving for a 4-month sabbatical
with Jaki and Darin (15) to the southern hemisphere. Our oldest son, Rohan,
will be running Earthwood while we are gone. He knows his stuff and can do
all the book orders and registrations. Rohan has taught cordwood masonry with
me in both North and South America. I will look in on this bulletin board
when I get back in early May. In the meantime, I am signing off to lessen the
burden on the Earthwood email. There are log-ends waiting to be stacked in
New Zealand. If anybody needs anything, please go to www.cordwoodmasonry.com
      Oh, and good luck with your osage orange. Let me know how it turns out.
Also your "masonary" stove. (Actually masonry. If you say it wrong, you will
spell it wrong and vice-versa. Then you won't be able to get to our website!)
      Rob Roy, Director
      Earthwood Building School
      366 Murtagh Hill Road
      West Chazy, NY 12992

DANIEL...ROB IS AWAY FROM HOME AND HE WILL BE ON VACATION FOR A FEW
MONTHS.SO DON`T BE SURPRISED IF YOU DON`T GET A REPLY RIGHT AWAY.HE
PROBABLY WON`T SEE YOUR POST UNTIL MARCH...I BELIEVE.WHEN HE GETS BACK
  HOME.
                          CORDWOODGUY

You, Sir are a living legend! Thanks for your great
book! It appers to have assumed the positon as The
TEXTBOOK  on stackwall. I am building a 32 ft diameter
2 story home with a Russian fireplace. (BTW your
coverage of the Masonary stove has also been lauded in
other publications....) So, thanks again, Great work!
--- robandjaki@... wrote:
> Daniel,
>      While I do not have any personal experience
> with osage orange as
> cordwood, I would only suggest that you treat it as
> a dense hardwood. This
> means: (1) Do not dry it too much. The danger with
> overly dry would is that
> it can take on moisture during a driving rain storm
> (or from other sources,
> such as water standing on a slab) and cause the wood
> to swell, which will
> break up the wall. Expansion is a more serious
> problem than shrinkage.
> Expansion is a structural problem. Shrinkage is a
> cosmetic problem which can
> be attended to later by a variety of means. I
> suggest that you look at the
> pages called A Problem With Very Dry Hardwoods in my
> book Complete Book of
> Cordwood Masonry Housebuilding. If you do not have
> it, you can go to
> www.cordwoodmasonry.com  (2) Build under cover. Have
> your roof on first,
> perhaps by way of a post-and-beam frame. This
> protects the work during
> construction, usually the most critical time. (3) Do
> not pour a floor slab
> first, just a footing. Water can collect on the slab
> and stand against the
> base of the wall, causing swelling of the first
> course, which is bad. (4) Do
> not complete the last mortar joint under the top
> plate beam until the whole
> house is finished. Leave it unfilled as a place to
> take uplifting expansion
> from the cordwood masonry panel. Last thing you do,
> when everything has
> stabilized, is fill in that last mortar joint.
>      Now, it is possible that osage orange is not as
> much of a problem as,
> say, beech, oak, elm, hard maple, etc., but I am
> concerned that it might be.
> Try a test panel, as suggested in my book and
> others. Consider other less
> dense woods which might be available. If short of
> better woods, at least try
> to get enough for use on the first course, where the
> expansion problem often
> originates.
>      Please let us know how it comes out. Others
> have asked me about osage
> orange and I am keen to learn about it.
>      Rob Roy, 366 Murtagh Hill Road, West Chazy, NY
> 12992.
>
>


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Sounds like the Picton area. I lived in Kingston for a
year but found Southers Ontarion a bit too busy. Am
living in B.C. in the North Okanagan and am building a
round cordwood home. 2 story and about 1200 sq ft.
Also will be using a masonary heater as "it makes
sence". There are several websites dealing wiht
cordwood. One is Daycreek which provides links also to
others. I found it helped to visit these in the
doldrums of winter and derive inspiration from these.
Rob Roy has an excellent book. There are also others.

I am up to 8 ft on my walls so it is starting to take
shape. I get alot of questions but when speaking to
others it is interesting the number of non-traditional
house builders there are out there.

I have 3 dogs and 4 cats on 6 acres so am making
allowances for their comfort in house design, cat
perches, pet doors, wide window ledges for sunning
etc. It is a good life.....
--- dee@... wrote:
> Hello There
>
> I am new to this group.  Let me introduce myself.
> My name is Dee and I live
> in Prince Edward County on the north shore of Lake
> Ontario.  I can see the
> lake from my kitchen window in all seasons and when
> the trees are bare, from
> my back yard.  I bought this 100 acre farm 2 years
> ago.  There is a small
> house here and this is what I call home now.  I
> share my home with 3 dogs
> and 3 cats.
>
> Hopefully this spring I will be pouring the slab for
> my new house.  My hope
> is that it will be energy independant with solar and
> wind generated power
> heated with a masonary stove.  I plan to do grey
> water, composting toilet
> and the whole  bit.  I have about 30 acres of woods
> from which I plan to
> harvest the trees for the cordwood walls.  I plan on
> doing a
> strawbale/cordwood combo, almost round in shape with
> post and beam
> contruction.  It will be a short 21/2 storey, about
> 1800sq ft I think....
> The beams will be taken from my falling down barn.
> I am planning on a steel
> roof.  I have taken a few field trips around the
> area and found both
> stackwall homes and strawbale with solar and wood
> heat.  If anyone out there
> has any suggestions for how to move from here.  That
> would be great. I
> already have a book on how to build both strawbale
> and  stackwall.  I have
> spoken to and shared coffee and ideas with an
> architect.  Things are stalled
> at the moment.  I think it has something to do with
> the cold!  Any words of
> encouragemnt to spark the dream again into life
> would be wonderful.  Take
> care all and looking forward to getting to know some
> of you.
>
> dee hazell
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: dee@...
Reply-To: cordwood@egroups.com
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 18:01:42 -0500

>Hello There
>
>I am new to this group.  Let me introduce myself.  My name is Dee and I live
>in Prince Edward County on the north shore of Lake Ontario.  I can see the
>lake from my kitchen window in all seasons and when the trees are bare, from
>my back yard.  I bought this 100 acre farm 2 years ago.  There is a small
>house here and this is what I call home now.  I share my home with 3 dogs
>and 3 cats.
>
>Hopefully this spring I will be pouring the slab for my new house.  My hope
>is that it will be energy independant with solar and wind generated power
>heated with a masonary stove.  I plan to do grey water, composting toilet
>and the whole  bit.  I have about 30 acres of woods from which I plan to
>harvest the trees for the cordwood walls.  I plan on doing a
>strawbale/cordwood combo, almost round in shape with post and beam
>contruction.  It will be a short 21/2 storey, about 1800sq ft I think....
>The beams will be taken from my falling down barn.  I am planning on a steel
>roof.  I have taken a few field trips around the area and found both
>stackwall homes and strawbale with solar and wood heat.  If anyone out there
>has any suggestions for how to move from here.  That would be great. I
>already have a book on how to build both strawbale and  stackwall.  I have
>spoken to and shared coffee and ideas with an architect.  Things are stalled
>at the moment.  I think it has something to do with the cold!  Any words of
>encouragemnt to spark the dream again into life would be wonderful.  Take
>care all and looking forward to getting to know some of you.
>
>dee hazell
>
>
>
>Hi Dee;  I'm building just around the corner (eastern shore of Lake Ontario)
from you; near Watertown, NY.  I'm using post & beam/round/cordwood and
papercrete...You're welcome to visit.
jsjuczak@... for more info. -Jim-
>
>

DEE....FIRSTLY;WELCOME TO CORDWOOD
            ....NOW JUST A LITTLE MORE INFO FROM YOU...[1]WHAT TYPE OF
TREES WERE YOU PLANNING ON USING?[2]WHAT SIZE DIAMETER ARE WE TALKING
ABOUT?[3]HOW LONG DID YOU PLAN ON SEASONING THEM BEFORE YOU BUILD?
[GIVE ME AN IDEA WHEN YOU PLAN ON CUTTING THEM AS WELL...RIGHT NOW
WOULD BE BEST.LOGS LOOSE THEIR MOISTURE/SAP TO THE ROOT SYSTEM AT
THIS TIME OF YEAR WHEN THEY ARE DORMANT.AND PEEL BEST IN THE SPRING
WHEN THEY THAW ]
         GO TO YOUR LOCAL LIBRARY AND GET ALL THE BOOKS BY ROB ROY,
JACK HENSTRIDGE[ABOUT BUILDING CORDWOOD...SEE LOMAX CORNER], RICHARD
FLATAU.BY THE WAY WHAT CORDWOOD /STACKWALL BOOK DO YOU HAVE?
        THE SLAB YOU PLAN ON BUILDING THIS SPRING....I`D RECOMMEND TO
DESIGN IT TO BE 24" OFF THE GROUND FOR AN EFFECTIVE SPLASH GUARD
[KEEPS YOU LOGS HIGH AND DRY FROM RAIN AND SNOW....PROTECTS YOUR LOGS
ON THE BOTTOM]GET THE ARCHITECT TO SHOW YOU HOW TO BEST INSULATE YOUR
SLAB TO STOP THE COLD TRANSFERENCE FROM THE OUTER WALL....THEN
INSULATE UNDER THE WHOLE SLAB.THEN BUILD A 24" OVERHANG ON YOUR ROOF
WHICH ALSO HELPS PROTECT YOUR LOGS FROM EXCESS MOISTURE....THE LESS
MOISTURE THE LESS LIKELY YOU WILL ENCOUNTER ROT,FUNGUS,MOLD AND
SWELLING PROBLEMS.
        ABOUT THE STRAW BALE PART...I DON`T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT STRAW
BALE BUT I RECOMMEND EVERYONE SEE THIS REPORT....GO TO THIS URL.
                  http://www.efn.org/~apro/strawbale.html
        REMEMBER THIS IS AN INDEPENDANT REPORT AND THE RESULTS COME
FROM COLLECTED SCIENTIFIC DATA.I LIKE THE IDEA YOU ARE TALKING TO AN
ARCHITECT AS WELL...I RECOMMEND THAT PEOPLE LIKE YOU DISCUSS WHAT
YOU LEARN ABOUT ALTERNATIVE BUILDING WITH PROFESSIONALS FOR THEIR
INPUT.
                  CORDially YOURS
                    CORDWOODGUY

Hello There

I am new to this group.  Let me introduce myself.  My name is Dee and I live
in Prince Edward County on the north shore of Lake Ontario.  I can see the
lake from my kitchen window in all seasons and when the trees are bare, from
my back yard.  I bought this 100 acre farm 2 years ago.  There is a small
house here and this is what I call home now.  I share my home with 3 dogs
and 3 cats.

Hopefully this spring I will be pouring the slab for my new house.  My hope
is that it will be energy independant with solar and wind generated power
heated with a masonary stove.  I plan to do grey water, composting toilet
and the whole  bit.  I have about 30 acres of woods from which I plan to
harvest the trees for the cordwood walls.  I plan on doing a
strawbale/cordwood combo, almost round in shape with post and beam
contruction.  It will be a short 21/2 storey, about 1800sq ft I think....
The beams will be taken from my falling down barn.  I am planning on a steel
roof.  I have taken a few field trips around the area and found both
stackwall homes and strawbale with solar and wood heat.  If anyone out there
has any suggestions for how to move from here.  That would be great. I
already have a book on how to build both strawbale and  stackwall.  I have
spoken to and shared coffee and ideas with an architect.  Things are stalled
at the moment.  I think it has something to do with the cold!  Any words of
encouragemnt to spark the dream again into life would be wonderful.  Take
care all and looking forward to getting to know some of you.

dee hazell

Daniel,
      While I do not have any personal experience with osage orange as
cordwood, I would only suggest that you treat it as a dense hardwood. This
means: (1) Do not dry it too much. The danger with overly dry would is that
it can take on moisture during a driving rain storm (or from other sources,
such as water standing on a slab) and cause the wood to swell, which will
break up the wall. Expansion is a more serious problem than shrinkage.
Expansion is a structural problem. Shrinkage is a cosmetic problem which can
be attended to later by a variety of means. I suggest that you look at the
pages called A Problem With Very Dry Hardwoods in my book Complete Book of
Cordwood Masonry Housebuilding. If you do not have it, you can go to
www.cordwoodmasonry.com  (2) Build under cover. Have your roof on first,
perhaps by way of a post-and-beam frame. This protects the work during
construction, usually the most critical time. (3) Do not pour a floor slab
first, just a footing. Water can collect on the slab and stand against the
base of the wall, causing swelling of the first course, which is bad. (4) Do
not complete the last mortar joint under the top plate beam until the whole
house is finished. Leave it unfilled as a place to take uplifting expansion
from the cordwood masonry panel. Last thing you do, when everything has
stabilized, is fill in that last mortar joint.
      Now, it is possible that osage orange is not as much of a problem as,
say, beech, oak, elm, hard maple, etc., but I am concerned that it might be.
Try a test panel, as suggested in my book and others. Consider other less
dense woods which might be available. If short of better woods, at least try
to get enough for use on the first course, where the expansion problem often
originates.
      Please let us know how it comes out. Others have asked me about osage
orange and I am keen to learn about it.
      Rob Roy, 366 Murtagh Hill Road, West Chazy, NY 12992.

Sorry, no idea. I guess I would look at whether or not
this wood has been used fro other building purposes
and it's durability in those conditions......
--- jjeva@... wrote:
> Greetings and salutations,
> Does anyone know if I can successfully use Osage
> orange wood for
> cordwood construction?  I sure have a lot of it.
> Any comments would
> be greatly apppreciated!  Thanks, eb
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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--- In cordwood@egroups.com, jjeva@e... wrote:
> Greetings and salutations,
> Does anyone know if I can successfully use Osage orange wood for
> cordwood construction?  I sure have a lot of it.  Any comments
would
> be greatly apppreciated!  Thanks, eb

EB....WELL YOU GOT ME ON THAT ONE...THERE ARE NONE IN MY NECK OF THE
WOODS....ANYONE OUT THERE FROM ARKANSAS,TEXAS OR OKLAHOMA.IT ALSO
GOES BY THE NAMES...BODARK[FRENCH FOR BOW WOOD...INDIANS MADE BOWS
OUT OF THEM],HEDGE-APPLE,HORSE APPLE.
        WELL IT`S A HARDWOOD AND THEY ARE RISKIER TO BUILD WITH THAN
SOFTWOODS...BUT THAT WILL BE YOUR CHOICE.THEY HAVE BEEN USED FOR
FENCE POSTS...SO THEY ARE EITHER DURABLE OR THE ONLY THING AROUND?
NOW ARE THERE ENOUGH OLD FENCE POSTS FOR YOU TO BUILD WITH...THAT
WOULD BE A GOOD WAY TO GET THEM SEASONED...ALSO THEY WOULD BE ON THE
SMALL SIZE....THEY CAN GET UP TO 2' DIAMETER WITH TWISTED BRANCHES
...YOU MIGHT HAVE TO BE CAREFUL CUTTING THEM TO LENGTH AND SQUAREING
THEM
        ARE YOU AWARE OF ANY CORDWOOD IN YOUR AREA?TRY FIND SOME AND
SEE IF THEY USED ANY IN THEIR STRUCTURE...IT WOULD BE NICE FOR YOU
TO SEE IT FIRST HAND.HARDWOODS TEND TO SHRINK AND SWELL MORE THAN
SOFTWOODS...SWELLING THE BIGGER PROBLEM.DO YOU HAVE ANYOTHER WOOD
OPTIONS?
                       CORDially YOURS
                         CORDWOODGUY
PS: SORRY I COULDN`T BE OF MORE HELP!LETS GET SOME ANSWERS FROM
OTHERS...PLEASE.

Greetings and salutations,
Does anyone know if I can successfully use Osage orange wood for
cordwood construction?  I sure have a lot of it.  Any comments would
be greatly apppreciated!  Thanks, eb

I JUST FOUND A REPORT I TALKED ABOUT WHERE THEY STATE
THAT THE R- VALUE OF WHITE PINE IS R=2.0 PER INCH[AS HIGH AS
R=2.1]...IT WAS PUBLISHED IN 1978 BY A.J.NANASSY AND T. SZABO...
APPARENTLY AS THE TEMPERATURE GOES DOWN THE R-VALUE GOES UP.IT WAS
USED TO FIGHT A BUILDING INSPECTORS BAN ON LOG HOMES...HE LOST THE
BATTLE WITH THIS INFO.
          ALSO AN ENERGY EXPERT WITH "EREC" SAYS THERE IS REALLY NO
DIFFERENCE IN END GRAIN AND SIDE GRAIN R-VALUES
           SO A 24" LOG WOULD HAVE AN R- VALUE AROUND R=48

                     CORDWOODGUY

PS:NOW YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST...SO ASK A QUESTION TO GET THINGS
STARTED ON THIS PAGE...

--- In cordwood@egroups.com, cordwoodguy@n... wrote:
> HERE ARE SOME WAYS TO EVALUATE A BUILDER
>
> [1]DID (S)HE PROPERLY SEASON THE LOGS[1-2YEARS]
> [2]DID (S)HE PICK THE BEST SPECIES OF SOFTWOOD AVAILABLE
> [3]DID (S)HE USE HARDWOOD....NOT A GOOD IDEA.
> [4]DID (S)HE BUILD THE FOUNDATION WITH ALLOWANCES FOR SPLASHING
WATER
> [THIS IS WHAT I LOOK AT FIRST TO TELL IF THE BUILDER HAD ANY LOG
SAVY
> ....PROFESSIONAL LOG BUILDERS ALLOW 24"...CHECK OUT ALL THE
CORDWOOD
> BOOKS AND PHOTO`S AND ACTUAL BUILDINGS]
> [5]DID (S)HE BUILD A 24" OVERHANG ON THE ROOF TO HELP KEEP THE LOGS
> DRYER.
> [6]DID (S)HE USE CONCRETE INSTEAD OF MORTAR[MORE FLEX TO IT AND IT
> BREATHS...ALLOWS MOISTURE TO PASS]
> [7]DID (S)HE POINT THE MORTAR
> [8]DID (S)HE SEAL THE LOG ENDS...LOGS STILL SEASON 2-8 YEARS
> AFTER YOU MOVE INTO YOUR HOME
> [9]DID (S)HE LEAVE THE LOG ENDS ROUGH CUT
> [10]DID (S)HE USE PERMA CHINK OR OTHER SEALANT ON THE MORTAR[MORTAR
> HAS TO BREATH]
> [11]DID (S)HE USE AN INSULATION IN THE WALL CAVITY NOT AFFECTED BY
> MOISTURE..DEW POINT WILL CAUSE CONDENSATION IN THE WALL IN COLDER
> CLIMATES.
> [12]DID (S)HE NOT PUT ANY INSULATION IN THE CAVITY AT ALL...WORSE
>
>
> NOTE:DEDUCT A POINT FOR EVERY WRONG ANSWER TO THE ABOVE....THEN
> MULTIPLY BY 10 [THE RIGHT ANSWERS ]TO GET THEIR SCORE OUT OF 100....
>
> QUESTIONS 1-2-4-5-7-11-12[NO IS THE WRONG ANSWER]
> QUESTIONS 3-6-8-9-10 [YES IS THE WRONG ANSWER]
>
> THESE ARE THE BASICS...IF THEY FLUNKED THEN THEY DON`T KNOW THE
BASICS
> AND YOU NOW DO....WELCOME TO CORDWOOD
>
> PS: I MADE THIS UP LATE AT NIGHT AND HOPEFULLY IT WILL MAKE SENSE
IN
> THE MORNING.

--

On Thu, 28 Dec 2000 07:31:44   Lisa and Richard Koester wrote:
>DEAR CORDWOODGUY,
>
>THANKS FOR THE GREAT, HONEST EMAIL, I APPRECIATE IT !
>
>IT SEEMS TO ME THAT YOUR BIGGEST BEEF IS THAT PEOPLE DON'T REALIZE THAT YOU ARE
A LICENSED CORDWOOD BUILDER, SO THEY DON'T KNOW WHEN HE (CHRIS) BRINGS UP POINTS
THAT YOU'RE NOT TALKING OFF THE TOP OF YOUR HEAD.
>
>PERHAPS YOU SHOULD CONSIDER AN AUTOMATIC SIGNATURE THAT STATES THAT... NOT TO
TOOT YOUR OWN HORN SO MUCH AS TO LET NEWBIES (MYSELF ONE) THAT YOU'VE 24 YEARS
OF CORDWOOD EXPERIENCE AND A LICENSE THAT GOES WITH IT.
>
>I LOVE THE FACT THAT WE'RE ABLE TO DISCUSS THE FINER POINTS OF CW, SUCH AS HOW
STAWBALE MAY BE GREAT WHERE YOU ARE BUT NOT WORK FOR ME BECAUSE OF THE HUMIDITY
LEVEL...  I ALSO LIKE IT WHEN PEOPLE CITE THEIR SOURCES, GRANTED WE CAN ALL FIND
SOURCES WHICH ARE INCORRECT
>(SOMETIMES DUE TO THE FACT THAT THEY'RE OUTDATED ~ I FIND THIS A LOT WITH
TURTLE HUSBANDRY INFORMATION, BOTH IN PRINT AND ON-LINE)
>
>I APPRECIATE THE FACT THAT YOU'RE WILLING TO TAKE SOME CONVERSATIONS OFF-LIST.
I'VE BEEN ON LISTS WHERE FOLKS DIDN'T SEEM TO BE AWARE OF THAT OPTION AND THE
LIST HAS INDEED SUFFERED FOR IT.  SORRY I WASN'T AROUND LAST MONTH WHEN THINGS
GOT HEATED, IT SURE IS NICE TO
>HAVE MY 'PUTER AT HOME BACK :-)
>
>SARCASM IS HARD TO REIN IN SOMETIMES. I WAS JUST HAVING AN ARGUMENT W/ ONE OF
OUR WOODIES (ALSO OFF-LIST) AND AS MODERATOR I FELT I HAD TO MIND MY KEYBOARD. I
REALLY WANTED TO GIVE IT TO THEM W/ ALL THE LETTERS ON THE PAD!
>
>AH WELL, THERE'S ALWAYS TOMORROW!   <GRIN>
>
>HAPPY WEEK,
>:-)LISA
>
>
>
>
>guy cordwood wrote:
>
>>
>> --LISA....I APPOLOGISE TO YOU AND THE BOARD ONCE AGAIN
>> BUT I DON`T SEE HOW I CAN AVOID THE COMMENTARY AS CHRIS
>> ALWAYS TRIES TO COUNTERDICT MY VIEWS.BUT I`LL TRY TO AVOID HIM AND WILL STOP
THE SARCASIM.I KNOW WE SOUND LIKE KIDS BUT....I DON`T START IT.
>>         IT JUST INFURIATES ME TO HAVE SOMEONE LIKE CHRIS WHO ADMITTED HE
FIRST HEARD OF CORDWOOD  AND READ ABOUT IT 2 YEARS AGO IN ONE OF OUR POSTS
.....WHILE I EXCEED THAT BY 24 YEARS....AND WAS LICENSED TO TEACH IT.
>>         HE SIDED FOR HARDWOOD CORDWOOD HOMES[RICHARD FLATAU COVERED IT WITH
DISATER STORIES]...WHICH I DON`T THINK NEWBEE`S SHOULD TRY.
>>        HE SIDED FOR  STRAW BALE WHEN IT LOOKS OBVIOUS
>> IN THE REPORT...IT`S NOT MEANT FOR A DAMP COLD CLIMATE
>> ...WHICH HE SUGGESTS IS WRONG...THE MOISTURE MONITURING OF THE WALL SAYS
YES....AND DEW POINT EXISTS
>> IN COLD, BAMP CLIMATES.....THAT`S BASICLY WHY CARS RUST OUT UP HERE...THESES
HOT COLD CYCLES CAUSE CONDENSATION...THIS WET ENVIROMENT IS WHERE RUST AND MOLD
LIVE[NOT ALL OUR ROADS ARE SALTED EITHER]
>>         I TRY TO AVOID HIM..AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE...I EVEN TRIED TO BE
FRIENDLY...I ASKED ABOUT SLAB WOOD ONE TIME...AND ASKED A QUESTION ABOUT
IT....WHEN IN ALL HONESTY NOW I DIDN`T REALLY CARE...I TRIED TO MAKE PEACE.
>>         I`LL CLEAN UP MY END AND IF ANY PEOPLE ON THE BOARD SEE ME ANSWER ANY
OF CHRIS`S POSTS JUST WITH...
>> ?????????????? CONTACT ME PRIVATELY AND I`LL GIVE YOU THE SCOOP...THIS WAY
THE DIRTY LAUNDRY DOESN`T COME OUT ON ALLCORDWOOD....I ONCE TOLD CHRIS...I
WOULDN`T REPLY TO HIM PRIVATELY.BUT TO CLEAN UP THE BOARD I`LL TAKE THAT BACK
AND I`LL ANSWER HIS E-MAIL...IF ANY
>> COMES FORWARD...I`LL MAKE MY POINTS TO HIM FIRST BEFORE
>> I POST AS WELL .HE CAN DO THAT TO ME AND THE TRASH WILL ONLY BE IN OUR
PRIVATE MAIL.I`M THE NEW GUY AND
>> SOME HOW CHRIS ISN`T HAPPY WITH ME BEING HERE....FOR SOME REASON HE DOESN`T
ATTACK ME ON OTHER BOARDS WHERE WE CROSS PATHS...IT`S ONLY HERE AND I`M
UNCERTAIN
>> AS TO WHY?SO ONCE AGAIN I APPOLOGISE FOR MY PART IN ALL THIS TO EVERY ONE.
>>              CORDially YOURS
>>                CORDWOODGUY
>>
>> PS:CHRIS`S REASONING FOR PASSING ON STRAW BALE WAS
>> GOOD FOR THOSE LOOKING INTO IT AS WELL.
>>
>> What are you N2?  Choose from 150 free e-mail addresses.
>> http://www.n2mail.com
>
>


What are you N2?  Choose from 150 free e-mail addresses.
http://www.n2mail.com

I HAVE A VISUAL DISABILITY.....I CAN READ YOUR POSTS IN
SMALL LETTERS[I LEAN INTO THE SCREEN...NO PROBLEM]...BUT WHEN I WRITE
AND EDIT I NEED CAPITALS....BECAUSE I SIT FURTHER AWAY....AND I`VE
GOT THE MAGNIFICATION UP AS HIGH AS IT GOES....MY NEXT MONITOR WILL
BE BIGGER....I`M NOT MAD...I`M NOT SHOUTING
          WEITHER I USE MY READING GLASSES OR MY DRIVING GLASSES IT
DOESN`T SEEM TO MATTER

WELL WELCOME TO YOUR BOARD....THIS ONE WAS BUILT TO AVOID
CONFLICT....HERE I WANT PEOPLE TO EXPRESS THEIR VIEWS AND ASK
QUESTIONS....ALL ARE WELCOME FROM NEWBEE`S TO MASTERS...NEWBEE`S
HAVING THE MOST TO GAIN OBVIOUSLY.
          I`M NOT A NEWBEE NOR A MASTER....BUT I FALL IN SOME  WHERE
IN BETWEEN.I WORKED ON MY FIRST LOG HOME[CABIN] IN 1966.STUDIED
CORDWOOD FROM 1974-75 THEN HAD A PRIVATE TRADE SCHOOL AND WAS
LICENSED TO TEACH IT IN 1979[PLANNED ON WRITING A BOOK THEN...
IT NEVER HAPPENED MAINLY BECAUSE I DIDN`T HAVE A PROJECT LARGE
ENOUGH FOR THE PHOTO`S].BUT I`VE GOT A GOOD PART OF MY FIRST DRAFT
WRITEN AND HOPE TO BUILD A SIZEABLE HOME...IN THE NEXT FIVE YEARS.
GOD AND EMPLOYMENT WILLING....AND I MIGHT HAVE SOME SMALLER PROJECTS
COMING UP NEXT YEAR.
          THE BOOK MIGHT END UP BEING POSTED ON THE NET AS A FREEBE
BUT THATS NOT WRITEN IN MORTAR YET...THE REASON BEING IT WILL ALWAYS
BE CURRENT......I DON`T WANT ANY MISINFORMATION OR MISTAKES TO BE
PERMANENT AS IN SOME TEXTS THAT ARE OUT THERE NOW...PERHAPS THERE
WILL BE A BOOK AND THE WEB SITE WILL BE FOR UPDATES...TIME WILL TELL

                      CORDWOODGUY