I went through the same vapor lock problems for about a year with my 1984
class-C Chevy. I also tried replacing the mechanical pump and filters but each
time I hit the road in 90 plus degree weather I would wind up in the slow lane
chugging along. I went to Speedwaymotors.com and bought their SPEEDWAY ELECTRIC
FUEL PUMP, RED Item #: 91012801 for about $80 plus S&H. This pump delivers fuel
at over a gallon a minute when needed.  I mounted this electric pump between the
tank and the mechanical pump and placed a rocker switch on the dash within easy
reach. I only run the electric pump when needed. It is now a pleasure to drive
my ole RV with what feels like another hundred horse power and no more vapor
lock.

Not a bad idea. I will keep that in mind if I end up trading my vintage 1953
Airstream for a motor home.
--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY

On Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 1:15 PM, olehermit <olehermit@...> wrote:

>
>
> I went through the same vapor lock problems for about a year with my 1984
> class-C Chevy.....snip....
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a 1992 Country camper class A with a Chevy 6.2L Diesel engine & Chassis.
I just bought it a couple of months ago. The first time we took it out we lost
lights going down the interstate- not a pleasant experience! Took it into Larry
Moe and Curly's truck service they couldn't find the problem. We pulled the
alternator and took it in to have it tested and it checked out ok. (A couple of
places gave us the same diagnosis.) On the vehicle it is running only 12 Volts
and less when the lights are going. Any suggestions besides the ground? It is a
possibility that the stock alternator is not powerful enough. It is a 64 Amp
model (stock amperage) and there are the 2 chassis batteries and the 2 coach
batteries as well as 14 running lights and the headlights and tail-lights. (I
know from the receipts that the previous owner  replaced the alt. in 98 and 02)
The batteries are brand new. The needle drops as soon as you turn on the lights.
I am considering unhooking the coach batteries and letting the genset charge
them. I am also posting this to a couple of other lists too. I would appriciate
any help
Thanks
Jim C.

I had that problem with my '83 Vogue 6.2 . I put a 125 amp alterator on it and
changed the converter/charger to a three stage converter/charger and removed the
battery isolator .Always be sure to top off the batteries before starting a trip
as it will take all the juice away from the lights and such trying to charge
them with the alternator .I kept poping the internal regulater in the alternator
and it would then overcharge and burn out the lightbulbs .After the 3rd episode
I changed things and havn't had the problem since .Hope this helps some .If you
have a wiring diagram of the coach you might want to check for fusible links and
make sure they are still letting juice pass through .  Tom

I asked at the bottom of my post if anyone knew if Holiday Rambler offered a
dual fuel option of propane/gas in 1984.  After doing some research I discovered
that they indeed did offer such an setup and my new to me HR has that installed.
I just don't know how or if I want to use it.  There is no paperwork with the MH
on it.  Does anyone know anything about running a motorhome on propane?


--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "kdmiller003" <dmiller_nowlin@...> wrote:
>
> I just bought a 1984 Holiday Rambler Imperial 33ft.  On the drive back to my
house, which was over 100 miles, the engine cut out with out warning.  I would
be driving along at 60 and then it just quit.  It would start back up again and
eventually we got it home.  Looking at the carb, we discovered that it was not
getting enough fuel.  We located a loose wire on the fuel pump just below the
carb, but even fixing that didn't improve things much.  Are there other fuel
pumps along the line and where are they located.  Is there one in the gas tank?
>
> On another note, on the dash there is a gauge for propane.  It gives the
impression that the engine can run on propane.  Was that an option in 1984?
>

The first thing you need to find out is if the alternator really might be too
small. The easiest way is to take a volt reading at the battery with the
ignition key OFF. It should be 12 to 12.5 volts if the battery is good. Then
start the vehicle and see what the voltage is with the engine running at a fast
idle and all the accessories and lights off. If everything is working you should
have 13.25 to around 13.75 volts. If you have 13 volts or more start turning on
things, if the voltage drops when you turn on more lights and accessories then
you need a bigger alternator. If you do increase the size of the alternator make
sure that the "Bat" (battery) is heavy enough for the increased load.

If the alternator has been tested good and the voltage doesn't increase when you
start the engine you probably have a broken wire. Disconnect the battery and do
the following.  Finding a broken wire is about as much fun as a root canal.
Diesels are notorious for their vibration. The first thing I normally do is a
"stretch" test on the wires on the alternator. The insulation on a broken wire
will stretch when you pull on it while an intact wire will not. Usually broken
wire are pretty close to the alternator but they can be anyplace. If this
doesn't find the problem you are going to have to check each of the wires out
with a volt/ohm meter. This is the part part that is fun like a root canal. A
wiring diagram would be helpful but all you need is to follow each wire from the
alternator to it's other end. Often much easier said than done. Connect the Ohm
meter to each end of the wire. When you get high or infinite resistance you have
found your problem. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before going on the
broken wire hunt. GOOD LUCK!

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "drgwcs" <drgwcs@...> wrote:
>
>  I have a 1992 Country camper class A with a Chevy 6.2L Diesel engine &
Chassis. I just bought it a couple of months ago. The first time we took it out
we lost lights going down the interstate- not a pleasant experience! Took it
into Larry Moe and Curly's truck service they couldn't find the problem. We
pulled the alternator and took it in to have it tested and it checked out ok. (A
couple of places gave us the same diagnosis.) On the vehicle it is running only
12 Volts and less when the lights are going. Any suggestions besides the ground?
It is a possibility that the stock alternator is not powerful enough. It is a 64
Amp model (stock amperage) and there are the 2 chassis batteries and the 2 coach
batteries as well as 14 running lights and the headlights and tail-lights. (I
know from the receipts that the previous owner  replaced the alt. in 98 and 02)
The batteries are brand new. The needle drops as soon as you turn on the lights.
I am considering unhooking the coach batteries and letting the genset charge
them. I am also posting this to a couple of other lists too. I would appriciate
any help
> Thanks
> Jim C.
>

If the gasoline engine has been modified to switch, it will work just fine.

Propane will provide a little less horses but run much much cleaner. No
carbon build up at all. If you run exclusively on propane, the oil will not
turn black. It will still brake down but no carbon will build up in the oil
that makes it turn black.  Might take a few oil changes after switching
exclusively to propane to get rid of all the carbon from the gasoline. Your
filters will last longer, the engine will last longer, Your oil still needs
to be changed as often as it calls for but if you use synthetics, I do
believe but am not sure that synthetics will go more miles before requiring
it to be changed if you run exclusively on propane.
Burning propane, Exhaust is water vapor and CO2. No Hydrocarbons at all.
Burns clean.
If you have to get it emission tested, Run it on propane during the test. it
will pass with flying colors.

Disadvantages are: not as readily available as gasoline. Less power could be
a problem but most really don't worry about it because it is minimal. Not
sure of the cost comparison to gasoline or the MPG difference between
gasoline and propane.

I would love to have an RV or vehicle that would run on either gasoline or
propane. I would probably use propane most of the time switching only to gas
when I can't get propane.

Happy campin yall.
--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY

On Wed, Sep 2, 2009 at 7:11 AM, kdmiller003 <dmiller_nowlin@...>wrote:

>
>
> I asked at the bottom of my post if anyone knew if Holiday Rambler offered
> a dual fuel option of propane/gas in 1984. After doing some research I
> discovered that they indeed did offer such an setup and my new to me HR has
> that installed. I just don't know how or if I want to use it. There is no
> paperwork with the MH on it. Does anyone know anything about running a
> motorhome on propane?
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

----- Original Message -----
From: LESLIE ROSS
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 10:41 AM
Subject: Re:Help on charging problem


I would think loosing the lights would be more likely a switch problem, Unless
your battery got really discharged.

If your alternator is only putting out 12 volts than it is not charging
correctly.. I would go to someone like autozone/advance etc they will check out
the charging system for free.

If not able to do that, than I would remove the alternator and hand carry it to
one of them to have it checked. I Believe that an alternator should put out
around 13.5 or better volts.
Also I would get away from Larry and Moe and find a good shop.

You might list where you are located on this site .. I am sure there is someone
in your area and they might be able to recommend a decent shop.
antiqbob



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When I pulled the Alternator and took it in it tested ok under full load and put
out the full 14 volts. When running it looked be about 12 volts, but drops when
you turn on accessories, especialy the lights. The batteries were reaaly
discharged from the drive (They are currently charged), but they charged back up
with a charger. It seems like the further we went the dimmer they became. I left
the engine and generator running all night with a charger attached. Larry Moe
and Curly were in the town where we broke down- I'm not going back to them
especially after what they charged for their incompitance! I'm located in New
Castle Indiana.

Jim C



--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "BOB ROSS" <antiqbob@...> wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LESLIE ROSS
> To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 10:41 AM
> Subject: Re:Help on charging problem
>
>
> I would think loosing the lights would be more likely a switch problem, Unless
your battery got really discharged.
>
> If your alternator is only putting out 12 volts than it is not charging
correctly.. I would go to someone like autozone/advance etc they will check out
the charging system for free.
>
> If not able to do that, than I would remove the alternator and hand carry it
to one of them to have it checked. I Believe that an alternator should put out
around 13.5 or better volts.
> Also I would get away from Larry and Moe and find a good shop.
>
> You might list where you are located on this site .. I am sure there is
someone in your area and they might be able to recommend a decent shop.
> antiqbob
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Yes, I would upgrade to a much larger alternator.
From what I know, which isn't much mind you, Diesel engines are suppose to
have at least a 100 amp alternator. A 64 amp can't charge 2 batteries that
most diesel engines have under the hood especially with all the extra stuff
a motorhome draws.

My suburban (5.7 liter) has a 98 amp alternator. I would expect a diesel to
have at least a 100 to 120. And a motor home even larger. Yup, Upgrade time.
That and check all wires for proper clean connections.

My suburban had a voltage problem and it turned out to be some after market
inproperly sized end of wire connector that was crimped on and was
overheating and increasing the resistance.  Cut it off, put a new much
larger copper connector and the problem was solved.

Hope you get it fixed.
--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY


On Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 9:36 PM, drgwcs <drgwcs@...> wrote:

>
>
> I have a 1992 Country camper class A with a Chevy 6.2L Diesel engine &
> Chassis. I just bought it a couple of months ago. The first time we took it
> out we lost lights going down the interstate- not a pleasant
> experience!...snip...
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i believe the load you have on that small of an altenator is your main problem,
most rvs have larger units on them, would be worth your while to go bigger than
what you have since you have such a load. atleast 140amp.  and it could even
be a wire that is broken somewhere in the system, i hope you are using a meter
instead of relying on the dash gauge.    mike
 


--- On Wed, 9/2/09, drgwcs <drgwcs@...> wrote:


From: drgwcs <drgwcs@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Fw: Re:Help on charging problem
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, September 2, 2009, 3:14 PM


 



When I pulled the Alternator and took it in it tested ok under full load and put
out the full 14 volts. When running it looked be about 12 volts, but drops when
you turn on accessories, especialy the lights. The batteries were reaaly
discharged from the drive (They are currently charged), but they charged back up
with a charger. It seems like the further we went the dimmer they became. I left
the engine and generator running all night with a charger attached. Larry Moe
and Curly were in the town where we broke down- I'm not going back to them
especially after what they charged for their incompitance! I'm located in New
Castle Indiana.

Jim C

--- In classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com, "BOB ROSS" <antiqbob@.. .> wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LESLIE ROSS
> To: classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 10:41 AM
> Subject: Re:Help on charging problem
>
>
> I would think loosing the lights would be more likely a switch problem, Unless
your battery got really discharged.
>
> If your alternator is only putting out 12 volts than it is not charging
correctly.. I would go to someone like autozone/advance etc they will check out
the charging system for free.
>
> If not able to do that, than I would remove the alternator and hand carry it
to one of them to have it checked. I Believe that an alternator should put out
around 13.5 or better volts.
> Also I would get away from Larry and Moe and find a good shop.
>
> You might list where you are located on this site .. I am sure there is
someone in your area and they might be able to recommend a decent shop.
> antiqbob
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You may have a wire partially broken, That will be the cause of all the
symptoms U describe.
   -----Original Message-----
   From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of mike whatever
   Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 2:03 PM
   To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [classicrv] Fw: Re:Help on charging problem


     i believe the load you have on that small of an altenator is your main
problem, most rvs have larger units on them, would be worth your while to go
bigger than what you have since you have such a load. atleast 140amp.  and
it could even be a wire that is broken somewhere in the system, i hope you
are using a meter instead of relying on the dash gauge.    mike


   --- On Wed, 9/2/09, drgwcs <drgwcs@...> wrote:

   From: drgwcs <drgwcs@...>
   Subject: [classicrv] Fw: Re:Help on charging problem
   To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
   Date: Wednesday, September 2, 2009, 3:14 PM



   When I pulled the Alternator and took it in it tested ok under full load
and put out the full 14 volts. When running it looked be about 12 volts, but
drops when you turn on accessories, especialy the lights. The batteries were
reaaly discharged from the drive (They are currently charged), but they
charged back up with a charger. It seems like the further we went the dimmer
they became. I left the engine and generator running all night with a
charger attached. Larry Moe and Curly were in the town where we broke down-
I'm not going back to them especially after what they charged for their
incompitance! I'm located in New Castle Indiana.

   Jim C

   --- In classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com, "BOB ROSS" <antiqbob@.. .> wrote:
   >
   >
   > ----- Original Message -----
   > From: LESLIE ROSS
   > To: classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com
   > Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 10:41 AM
   > Subject: Re:Help on charging problem
   >
   >
   > I would think loosing the lights would be more likely a switch problem,
Unless your battery got really discharged.
   >
   > If your alternator is only putting out 12 volts than it is not charging
correctly.. I would go to someone like autozone/advance etc they will check
out the charging system for free.
   >
   > If not able to do that, than I would remove the alternator and hand
carry it to one of them to have it checked. I Believe that an alternator
should put out around 13.5 or better volts.
   > Also I would get away from Larry and Moe and find a good shop.
   >
   > You might list where you are located on this site .. I am sure there is
someone in your area and they might be able to recommend a decent shop.
   > antiqbob
   >
   >
   >
   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   >

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If it works under test, maybe the belt is slipping when it is installed.

--- On Wed, 9/2/09, drgwcs <drgwcs@...> wrote:

From: drgwcs <drgwcs@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Fw:  Re:Help on charging problem
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, September 2, 2009, 2:14 PM






 





                   When I pulled the Alternator and took it in it tested ok under
full load and put out the full 14 volts. When running it looked be about 12
volts, but drops when you turn on accessories, especialy the lights. The
batteries were reaaly discharged from the drive (They are currently charged),
but they charged back up with a charger. It seems like the further we went the
dimmer they became. I left the engine and generator running all night with a
charger attached. Larry Moe and Curly were in the town where we broke down- I'm
not going back to them especially after what they charged for their
incompitance! I'm located in New Castle Indiana.



Jim C



--- In classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com, "BOB ROSS" <antiqbob@.. .> wrote:

>

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: LESLIE ROSS

> To: classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com

> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 10:41 AM

> Subject: Re:Help on charging problem

>

>

> I would think loosing the lights would be more likely a switch problem, Unless
your battery got really discharged.

>

> If your alternator is only putting out 12 volts than it is not charging
correctly.. I would go to someone like autozone/advance etc they will check out
the charging system for free.

>

> If not able to do that, than I would remove the alternator and hand carry it
to one of them to have it checked. I Believe that an alternator should put out
around 13.5 or better volts.

> Also I would get away from Larry and Moe and find a good shop.

>

> You might list where you are located on this site .. I am sure there is
someone in your area and they might be able to recommend a decent shop.

> antiqbob

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Propane is also cheaper and has a higher octane equivelent.  More octane won't
get you anything extra on its own, but it would allow for more advanced timing
or higher compression ratios.




________________________________
From: Warren <wncol2004@...>
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 2, 2009 9:36:06 AM
Subject: Re: [classicrv] Re: Fuel pumps

 
If the gasoline engine has been modified to switch, it will work just fine.

Propane will provide a little less horses but run much much cleaner. No
carbon build up at all. If you run exclusively on propane, the oil will not
turn black. It will still brake down but no carbon will build up in the oil
that makes it turn black. Might take a few oil changes after switching
exclusively to propane to get rid of all the carbon from the gasoline. Your
filters will last longer, the engine will last longer, Your oil still needs
to be changed as often as it calls for but if you use synthetics, I do
believe but am not sure that synthetics will go more miles before requiring
it to be changed if you run exclusively on propane.
Burning propane, Exhaust is water vapor and CO2. No Hydrocarbons at all.
Burns clean.
If you have to get it emission tested, Run it on propane during the test. it
will pass with flying colors.

Disadvantages are: not as readily available as gasoline. Less power could be
a problem but most really don't worry about it because it is minimal. Not
sure of the cost comparison to gasoline or the MPG difference between
gasoline and propane.

I would love to have an RV or vehicle that would run on either gasoline or
propane. I would probably use propane most of the time switching only to gas
when I can't get propane.

Happy campin yall.
--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY

On Wed, Sep 2, 2009 at 7:11 AM, kdmiller003 <dmiller_nowlin@ hotmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> I asked at the bottom of my post if anyone knew if Holiday Rambler offered
> a dual fuel option of propane/gas in 1984. After doing some research I
> discovered that they indeed did offer such an setup and my new to me HR has
> that installed. I just don't know how or if I want to use it. There is no
> paperwork with the MH on it. Does anyone know anything about running a
> motorhome on propane?
>

[
.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It might help if you would post what kind of alternator you have.

Always check the charging lug coming off the alternator first for 13.8+ volts if
you have 13.8+v, THEN follow that cable to the battery (or battery isolator) and
check it for 13.8+ volts.

If you don't have 13.8v at the lug, then you need to make sure the field wire is
getting power when the key is on.

64 amps seems a bit low, especially since GM/Chevy were using 105amp alternators
on stock RV chassis in 92.

However 64 amps would be plenty, had you not been charging the 4 batteries.  I
also suspect 64 amps would work just fine, but charging 4 batteries over time
your alternator would fail prematurely.

1972 Classic Winnebago / Brave D20
Dodge 340, 727 Tranny
2 Alternators, one is a 3G Re-Wired 250 Amp
Auto Transfer Switch with 3000/6000 Inverter
128 Watts Solar / 500AH Battery Bank
http://www.mywinnebago.com

Hi, I have a 73 Dodge Superior and am in the UK. The burner and pilot tube have
corroded badly, does anybody have a source for a new or good used piece? Being
UK based parts are hard to locate! Any help is welcome.
PeterP

by the time you buy it in the usa and have it shipped it would cost more than it
would if you looked in the UK. parts for old water heaters are far and inetween
anyway as it is. i'll put some links in for UK based rv parts and see if that
helps you.     mike
 
http://www.starspangledspanner.com/
 
http://www.goldrv.co.uk/parts/
 
http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/
 
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/American-Motorhome-RV-Parts__W0QQ_armrsZ1


--- On Sat, 9/5/09, PPenwarden <ppenwarden@...> wrote:


From: PPenwarden <ppenwarden@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Attwood water heater
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 5, 2009, 7:42 PM


 



Hi, I have a 73 Dodge Superior and am in the UK. The burner and pilot tube have
corroded badly, does anybody have a source for a new or good used piece? Being
UK based parts are hard to locate! Any help is welcome.
PeterP



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Wow, that's some pretty expensive merchandise.  What's a pound worth these days
in US currency?
JerryK

--- On Sat, 9/5/09, mike whatever <gmmullins4@...> wrote:

From: mike whatever <gmmullins4@...>
Subject: Re: [classicrv] Attwood water heater
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 5, 2009, 7:57 PM






 





                   by the time you buy it in the usa and have it shipped it would
cost more than it would if you looked in the UK. parts for old water heaters are
far and inetween anyway as it is. i'll put some links in for UK based rv parts
and see if that helps you.     mike

 

http://www.starspan gledspanner. com/

 

http://www.goldrv. co.uk/parts/

 

http://www.olearymo torhomes. co.uk/

 

http://stores. shop.ebay. co.uk/American- Motorhome- RV-Parts_ _W0QQ_armrsZ1



--- On Sat, 9/5/09, PPenwarden <ppenwarden@yahoo. co.uk> wrote:



From: PPenwarden <ppenwarden@yahoo. co.uk>

Subject: [classicrv] Attwood water heater

To: classicrv@yahoogrou ps.com

Date: Saturday, September 5, 2009, 7:42 PM



 



Hi, I have a 73 Dodge Superior and am in the UK. The burner and pilot tube have
corroded badly, does anybody have a source for a new or good used piece? Being
UK based parts are hard to locate! Any help is welcome.

PeterP



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

First of all I just realized I made an oops on the year-I somehow hit 92 instead
of 82- fat fingers I guess

The alternator is a delco-remy and seems to be the spec for the chassis as 64
amps came up on Autozone when they pulled up the p-chassis specs. (P-type
chevy-same as used on step vans) However I would think that a step van would
have a quite different power requirements. I would suspect that when the alt got
replaced by the earlier owner if it had a bigger one on it they looked at the
chassis specs and put the smaller one on. It is a v-belt type with a the bottom
that just has the one mount rather than the one that hes the double humps in the
bottom. There was not a delco # that we could see on it.
Thaks
Jim C
--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "ibdilbert2" <tim.daley_yhoo@...> wrote:
>
> It might help if you would post what kind of alternator you have.
>
> Always check the charging lug coming off the alternator first for 13.8+ volts
if you have 13.8+v, THEN follow that cable to the battery (or battery isolator)
and check it for 13.8+ volts.
>
> If you don't have 13.8v at the lug, then you need to make sure the field wire
is getting power when the key is on.
>
> 64 amps seems a bit low, especially since GM/Chevy were using 105amp
alternators on stock RV chassis in 92.
>
> However 64 amps would be plenty, had you not been charging the 4 batteries.  I
also suspect 64 amps would work just fine, but charging 4 batteries over time
your alternator would fail prematurely.
>
> 1972 Classic Winnebago / Brave D20
> Dodge 340, 727 Tranny
> 2 Alternators, one is a 3G Re-Wired 250 Amp
> Auto Transfer Switch with 3000/6000 Inverter
> 128 Watts Solar / 500AH Battery Bank
> http://www.mywinnebago.com
>

Had the same problem on my 73 sportster. Eventually found a new old stock one on
ebay for a great price. Be patient, and maybe initiate a search on ebay and
you'll be notified as soon as one is listed. Good luck.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well folks it has been a nice summer, and we are finally ready to move towards
out winter grounds, even tho it is less than 500 miles, it will take us a month
to get there, on the way we plan to stop for the pie town festival(below) where
they have some free camping, and plenty of fun during that weekend. then we will
be at different campgrounds and special places we have found over the years
between new mexico and arizona. hopefully we make it to quartzsite by oct 1st,
but no garuantees on the date. we probally won't have internet access during
this time as we want to do some fishing and walking tours. but will check in
when we get to qaurtzsite.     mike

http://www.pietowncouncil.com/pie_festival/pie_festival_contact.html

A 64 amp alternator should be fine.  If your charging 4 batteries it would just
mean that it would take longer for the 4 batteries to charge up than if you had
say a 100 amp alternator.  My 1979 Dodge has a 78 amp alternator and my previous
Rv was on a 1974 Dodge chassis had a 65 amp alternator.  They both had one
chassis battery, one house battery and I would sometimes hook my boat battery to
the house battery in order to charge the boat battery.  Both Rv were able to
charge 3 batteries without a problem so I would think 4 would be fine.  Now if
the bushes in the alternator are getting worn out you might have good voltage at
low load and low voltage and amperage under a load.  Keep in mind that an
alternator will never be able to produce full voltage or amperage at idle.  From
your description my instinct is that your alternator is okay and your battery
isolator is bad keeping the alternator from being able to charge the batteries. 
This is what I would do start the Rv turn on the electrical accessories light,
heater ect.  Run the engine at 1,500 to 2,000 RPM.  Check the voltage on the
charging terminal on the back of the alternator it should be 13.8 volts at a
minimum over 14 volts would be best.  Then test the voltage at the chassis
battery it should close to the same voltage at the alternator terminal maybe a
.1 or .2 lower.  If the voltage at the battery is much lower than the voltage at
the alt terminal (like 12.5 volts or lower) then you have a bad isolator or a
break in the wiring between the alternator and the battery.  If you check the
voltage at the alternator and at the battery and your not sure post the readings
here and I'll try to interpret them for you.

Rob

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "drgwcs" <drgwcs@...> wrote:
>
> First of all I just realized I made an oops on the year-I somehow hit 92
instead of 82- fat fingers I guess
>
> The alternator is a delco-remy and seems to be the spec for the chassis as 64
amps came up on Autozone when they pulled up the p-chassis specs. (P-type
chevy-same as used on step vans) However I would think that a step van would
have a quite different power requirements. I would suspect that when the alt got
replaced by the earlier owner if it had a bigger one on it they looked at the
chassis specs and put the smaller one on. It is a v-belt type with a the bottom
that just has the one mount rather than the one that hes the double humps in the
bottom. There was not a delco # that we could see on it.
> Thaks
> Jim C
> --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "ibdilbert2" <tim.daley_yhoo@> wrote:
> >
> > It might help if you would post what kind of alternator you have.
> >
> > Always check the charging lug coming off the alternator first for 13.8+
volts if you have 13.8+v, THEN follow that cable to the battery (or battery
isolator) and check it for 13.8+ volts.
> >
> > If you don't have 13.8v at the lug, then you need to make sure the field
wire is getting power when the key is on.
> >
> > 64 amps seems a bit low, especially since GM/Chevy were using 105amp
alternators on stock RV chassis in 92.
> >
> > However 64 amps would be plenty, had you not been charging the 4 batteries. 
I also suspect 64 amps would work just fine, but charging 4 batteries over time
your alternator would fail prematurely.
> >
> > 1972 Classic Winnebago / Brave D20
> > Dodge 340, 727 Tranny
> > 2 Alternators, one is a 3G Re-Wired 250 Amp
> > Auto Transfer Switch with 3000/6000 Inverter
> > 128 Watts Solar / 500AH Battery Bank
> > http://www.mywinnebago.com
> >
>

I have been lurking along and realized that I need comment..

WARNING:
Be very careful about your refrig and leaving it connected.. I have previously
emailed about this.. If on 120 Volts make sure that you can control the heat.. I
had a bad refig and the refrig got way too hot. Had it stayed hooked to 120
Volts it would have undoubtedly burnt my motorhome.

I have forwarded pics of what one can do (motorhome a total loss) AND if you
need them I can probably find them again.. But just a word to the wise.. Please
be careful leaving a "bad" refrig hooked up in your motorhome.. or anywhere for
that matter..

My bad one got so hot that it woke me in the middle of the night with the HOT
smell.. after a quick search I found that it was too hot to even get my hand
within a couple of inches of it.. And what was it about to do to my fiberglass
motorhome??.. My grandkids and wife were all inside asleep..

Please consider it.
Bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

A dealer has a large Class A 1989 Winnebago Elandan 32RQ on the lot.  Sale is
"as is". It is obvious this dealer does nothing to improve trade-ins...it is
dirty and sits just the way it arrived on the lot.  It is too far away to have
my trusted mechanic check it so I am on my own to find problems.  Exterior is in
good shape with no delamination, and fiberglass is not cracked or oxidized
beyond repair.  Interior needs a decor-update, but is functional.  Engine is
Chevy 454, with 85,000 miles, probably P-30 chassis, needing 7 new tires.  Price
is $9,500, which seems on the high side considering condition and miles. 
Anything special on this engine/chassis that is a potential problem to look at?
The exhaust headers are NOT cracked and exhaust system is NOT loud.  Previous
owner added two electric fans in front of radiator, so overheating must have
been a problem at some point.
jim ham

The 454 in general is a strong durable engine if serviced properly.
The transmission is most likely the Turbo 400 transmission. One way to tell
is if it doesn't have an overdrive. it is probably the turbo 400
transmission. That turbo 400 transmission is a strong durable transmission
if serviced properly. Strongest ever built by GM for the gasoline engines.

If the engine has suffered overheating problems in the past. it could be
that the motorhome chassis is overloaded. to much weight will cause the
engine to get hot.  Some motorhomes were overloaded when they came off the
assembly line. Find the label that indicates the Cargo Carying Capacity, dry
weight as well as the GVWR. See if the dry weight exceeds the GVWR or is at
a point that when you fill up the tanks it is overloaded.  Check the CCC
(Cargo Carying Capcity) if that is negative or really low or the dry weight
is close to or exceeds the GVWR, Walk away unless you want it for parts.
The fact that the headers are not cracked indicates it was not run really
hard but the electric fan...Could be they just wanted a few more horses and
removed the belt fan to get it.

Best of luck.  Others probably know more about the P-30 chassis quirks than
I.

--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY

On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 3:08 PM, happytravelmaster <jamesham@...> wrote:

>
>
> A dealer has a large Class A 1989 Winnebago Elandan 32RQ on the lot. Sale
> is "as is". It is obvious this dealer does nothing to improve trade-ins...it
> is dirty and sits just the way it arrived on the lot. It is too far away to
> have my trusted mechanic check it so I am on my own to find problems.
> Exterior is in good shape with no delamination, and fiberglass is not
> cracked or oxidized beyond repair. Interior needs a decor-update, but is
> functional. Engine is Chevy 454, with 85,000 miles, probably P-30 chassis,
> needing 7 new tires. Price is $9,500, which seems on the high side
> considering condition and miles. Anything special on this engine/chassis
> that is a potential problem to look at?
> The exhaust headers are NOT cracked and exhaust system is NOT loud.
> Previous owner added two electric fans in front of radiator, so overheating
> must have been a problem at some point.
> jim ham
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We recently purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, and are in the process of
checking all the systems etc before we take it out on our first trip.

Specifically what I want to ask about in this post is the batteries -- we have
recently had the main system engine battery and the 2 marine batteries tested
and charged, and were told that they are fine.  But the main system engine
battery wears down extremely fast when driving.  The alternator has been tested
and is fine. We have a mechanic friend helping us with this, and he has told us
that the multi-batttery isolator shows that no electrical power is running
through it when he tests it with a hand tester. We found out that a new isolator
will cost us $60.

Also, the switch on the dashboard to switch between main battery/marine
batteries doesn't work.

We are willing to replace the isolator if necessary, but first we want to ask if
there is perhaps another reason that the battery keeps draining.

I guess I should mention that we both have a very limited knowledge of  things
like this (we are not mechanics   ), and our buddy that is helping us is a
professional auto mechanic, but has never worked on an RV before.

Thank you in advance for any help and advice...

-- Edna

Sounds like you have the battery isolated from the alternator while driving.
Being I am not that familiar with that circuit...
I would take it to an RV repair shop and let them diagnose the problem.
--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY

On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 4:50 PM, pk5557 <pk5557@...> wrote:

>
>
> We recently purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, and are in the process
> of checking all the systems etc before we take it out on our first
> trip....snip...
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I had the same thing happen to me a couple of years ago.  Alternator tested
good, battery tested good but the battery would not charge from the alternator,
turned out to be a bad isolator.  Replaced it myself you can get new isolators
at places like Shucks or the RV place.  They are fairly easy to install and the
one I got had instructions and a wiring diagram.

Good luck,
Rob


--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Warren <wncol2004@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like you have the battery isolated from the alternator while driving.
> Being I am not that familiar with that circuit...
> I would take it to an RV repair shop and let them diagnose the problem.
> --
> Warren
> 1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
> 1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
> Western KY
>
> On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 4:50 PM, pk5557 <pk5557@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > We recently purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, and are in the process
> > of checking all the systems etc before we take it out on our first
> > trip....snip...
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I have had 6 years in electrical training, this could be a number of
problems.  Your Isolator, may be broken, your isolator, maybe burnt-out,
or shorting-out.  Your dashboard switch, maybe burnt-out as well, or
your wire leading to the marine battery or isolator, may be cut, or
shorting-out on the body. This is not rocket science.  It is just one
wire, trace it from the battery, and look, for signs of damage, or burn
marks.  Also, it your going to replace the isolator, I would replace it
with a solenoid.  A solenoid, is far more superior, and more rugged.
This is simple wiring, and you machanic, if this person is a general
machanic, should be able to repair this problem, with his eyes closed.

regards

vince



-----Original Message-----
From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pk5557
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 2:50 PM
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [classicrv] battery problem




We recently purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, and are in the
process of checking all the systems etc before we take it out on our
first trip.

Specifically what I want to ask about in this post is the batteries --
we have recently had the main system engine battery and the 2 marine
batteries tested and charged, and were told that they are fine. But the
main system engine battery wears down extremely fast when driving. The
alternator has been tested and is fine. We have a mechanic friend
helping us with this, and he has told us that the multi-batttery
isolator shows that no electrical power is running through it when he
tests it with a hand tester. We found out that a new isolator will cost
us $60.

Also, the switch on the dashboard to switch between main battery/marine
batteries doesn't work.

We are willing to replace the isolator if necessary, but first we want
to ask if there is perhaps another reason that the battery keeps
draining.

I guess I should mention that we both have a very limited knowledge of
things like this (we are not mechanics ), and our buddy that is helping
us is a professional auto mechanic, but has never worked on an RV
before.

Thank you in advance for any help and advice...

-- Edna







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hey folks, we have a couple of sites still open!!
All vintage trailer makes and models welcome! Step back in time, enjoy
,Trailer Show-n-Shine, Burger Contest, Lawn Chair Drive-In, Pot luck and
much more!!

for more info
http://n2vintage.tripod.com/ <http://n2vintage.tripod.com/>

aluminumly yours
kimberly
n2vintage@... <mailto:n2vintage@...>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]