I have recently had a few close calls with low bridges that could easily have
resulted in a bad accident.

Does anyone know of a good GPS system or add on for my Garmin that would give a
low bridge warning?

Something like a speed camera POI list could work, but I can't seem to find
anything.

Many thanks.

glad you asked this one, bery few have asked ever that i know of, i have a
garmin 18 for my laptop and use low clearance info from here:

http://www.poi-factory.com/node/2002
 
don't forget if you run up to one that may be a little low and is not in the
directory feel free to add it so everyone else can have it also.    mike
 

--- On Sat, 8/1/09, o_jon.mills_o <o_jon.mills_o@...> wrote:


From: o_jon.mills_o <o_jon.mills_o@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Low Bridges
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 1, 2009, 10:27 AM


 




I have recently had a few close calls with low bridges that could easily have
resulted in a bad accident.

Does anyone know of a good GPS system or add on for my Garmin that would give a
low bridge warning?

Something like a speed camera POI list could work, but I can't seem to find
anything.

Many thanks.



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yes congrats on the new home.  I sold my classic RV a few years ago, then bought
a new old 1978 Flair, this last winter so I know the excitement your having now.
Well, Mike gave a very good list on what to check.  If your compleately new to
RVing, it might not be a bad idea to check a book out at the library on RVing,
that might help you with known maintainance needs and how things operate.  A
couple of things I can think of that might help on your trip.  If your not used
to driving such a large rig, just remember that it will stop, steer, accelerate
and corner slower and less precisely than a car.  Also remember that on the
freeway the faster you drive the lower your gas mileage.  Your driving something
with the arrow dynamics of a brick down the road.  I find that in the Flair at
55- 60 MPH I get a little better than 8MPG, but once I start getting over about
62 or 63 MPG the mileage starts dropping sharply if I run it up to 70MPH the gas
mileage will get down around 6MPG.  But maybe thats just me I know RVing is fun
and we should not have to worry about money when travelling but for me atleast
it is a must.  Sometimes older RVs have cooling system problems, so I would keep
an eye on the temp. gauge especially on the first trip just to be sure it's
doing good.

Enjoy the new home and travel safely,

Rob
--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, mike whatever <gmmullins4@...> wrote:
>
> well, congrats on the new home!!! pace is a good solid unit for many folks,
well there is the tires, check the dates on them make sure they are not older
than 5 years old. fill everything up and make sure?everything works, start the
water heater and the fridge no sense in waiting to find out the hard way, get a
good water hose, not a garden hose, get some good hose for dumping the black and
gray water, nothing worse than leaking hoses, make sure the tank valves work,
lube them with silicone if need be. do all the mechnical things you would do
with buying a used car, go over every inch, look for leaks in the roof by taking
a hose to it. check the brakes, infact just check everything. check the
batteries.
> ?
> if you don't have insurance to come and change a tire, get the right equipment
to do the job, nothing worse than sitting on the side of the road while some tow
truck driver charges you umpteen dollars to just change a tire.
> ?
> go out in the drive way and just live in it for a few days, stay out of the
house period, this will give you an idea of what you need for comfort, and?you
will soon find out what works right or not, also a good way to learn about the
batteries as well, does the gen set run? if so how long is it taking to charge
up the batteries after you run them down? this is the kind of things to ask
yourself.
>
> the next thing is to determine what type of rv use you will have??? will it be
blacktop living, boondocking, rv parks, etc. things to watch is not every rv
park will let you in with an older rv, prejudice i think. depending on length of
the rv some campgrounds will exclude you too.determining the use will also tell
you what other things you have to worry about, like plugging into 30amp with
only a 20amp wire, and back the other way.?do your water lines leak under higher
pressure in an rv park? it is possible for sure that it might but not on the
inboard water pump. does the toilet keep a little water on top of the valve to
keep it sealed? if not expect a smelly trip might be possible from a leaky
toilet valve. whew nasty smell at that. **it happens!
> ?
> close the top vents and put down the antenna and put the steps up, before
moving or you will not have them anymore. don't put the awning out if it is
going to be windy, unless your trying to get rid of it.(guy next door to me had
his 2008 fifth wheel awning out last week, and along came 20 mile an hour
wind...no more awning)mine is an 83? and still has the original awning on it,
might change it out this winter for an american flag type i saw in quartzsite
az..
> ?
> we(everyone here)?could spend months telling you horror stories and happy
stories and each personal better way to do it, alot you have to learn on your
own, if in doubt....ask..???? mike(18 years fulltiming) wlecome to the group and
life of classic rvs
> ?
> for more:
> http://www.rvadvice.com/newbies.html
> ?
>
> --- On Thu, 7/30/09, kat822art <kat822art@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: kat822art <kat822art@...>
> Subject: [classicrv] Newbie owner of a 1977 Pace Arrow
> To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, July 30, 2009, 2:53 PM
>
>
> ?
>
>
>
> Hello,
> My husband and I just bought a 77 pace arrow w/56000 original miles. We are
complete newbies at the whole RV scene. What are some things we should know
before we start off on our first major trip? Are there parts we should go ahead
and buy and keep on hand...any advice is greatly appreciated
>
> Thank you so much,
> Kathy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Called Walbro and they have a replacement Fuel Pump part number FRD-1 (Replaces
2401) and FRD-2 (Replaces 2402)cost $85.00 including shipping.
This Pump has no bellows. I am replaceing on my RV will let you know what
happens Thanks for all help herb

The only think I can add is we discovered if we drive our 86 Georgie
Boy Cruiseair at 45 mph, we get almost 10 mpg and we get to see more
of the scenery with less stress.  (Incidentally, we try to stay off
interstate hiways so we see wildlife and streams rather than semis and
billboards.)

D. Hammond

On 8/2/09, Sirrobyn0 <sirrobyn0@...> wrote:
>   Also remember that on the freeway the faster you drive the lower your gas
mileage.  Your driving something with the arrow dynamics of a brick down the
road.  I find that in the Flair at 55- 60 MPH I get a little better than 8MPG,
but once I start getting over about 62 or 63 MPG the mileage starts dropping
sharply if I run it up to 70MPH the gas mileage will get down around 6MPG.

Hey Everyone!

As many of you know, I recently recycled a 1984 27' terry travel trailer.  Now,
I have the following items up for sale:

-propane/electric fridge
-propane stove
-kitchen sink(double sink)
-power converter
-awning
-holding tanks
-windows
-doors
-rolling chassis
-propane lines(chassis mount)
-toilet
-cabinet doors and drawers

If anyone is interested in any of this stuff, please let me know.

adam
amc19812002@...

Hi Everyone,

I have this Tioga I am rebuilding.  [I actually wish I could find a Tioga RV
manual from this era; I'm sure it would help me out....].   It has a steering
problem I have to solve right away and I hope someone can give me some advice. 

The problem is the thing doesn't turn to the R very well, even though after the
RV has been driven around for awhile it turns adequately.  A mechanic told me it
was the worm drive and would be $800 to fix.  I decided to buy a steering
assembly myself and to try to do it, but I am a little worried thinking I may
not be able handle the swap out.  Anyone ever done one of these?  Does anyone in
LA/ Pasadena area know where I could get something like this done?  Is this
something a pretty mechanical non-mechanic can do who has a lot of space, lots
of tools, and a good jack?

Thanks for the help,

Phil

i am assuming it is the fleetwood class c tioga. pretty simple job actualy, did
you already take it in for a front end alignment? did they say the rest of the
steering assembly is in good shape? ball joints? tie rods? your buddy will be a
hammer and a few handtools,pitman removal the hardest. its a typical dodge van
type chassis for 74. a auto manual for a dodge van covering that year will
suffice.
 
as far as owners manual you wouldn't have received much, the appliances are
pretty much seperate and who knows after all this time if any wiring has been
changed etc.  did you happen to luck out and get one of the old onan generators
that might run? pretty simple gen set, if it still there, and plenty of parts
out there to not only cover the dodge parts but other things as well.
 
here is a copy of the sales broshure if you happen to want one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-Tioga-Dodge-Motorhome-RV-Brochure_W0QQitemZ2\
60363511594QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories?hash=it\
em3c9edfe72a&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

as far as getting it done in LA, well plenty of latino shops would probally do
it. don't know how much they would charge you tho.i would just say get the motor
manual and go from there. autozone probally has it or pepboys.    mike
 

--- On Mon, 8/3/09, Phil Hanson <phanson7@...> wrote:


From: Phil Hanson <phanson7@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Steering on a 74 Dodge Tioga Class C
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 3, 2009, 1:22 AM


 



Hi Everyone,

I have this Tioga I am rebuilding.  [I actually wish I could find a Tioga RV
manual from this era; I'm sure it would help me out....].   It has a steering
problem I have to solve right away and I hope someone can give me some advice. 

The problem is the thing doesn't turn to the R very well, even though after the
RV has been driven around for awhile it turns adequately.  A mechanic told me it
was the worm drive and would be $800 to fix.  I decided to buy a steering
assembly myself and to try to do it, but I am a little worried thinking I may
not be able handle the swap out.  Anyone ever done one of these?  Does anyone in
LA/ Pasadena area know where I could get something like this done?  Is this
something a pretty mechanical non-mechanic can do who has a lot of space, lots
of tools, and a good jack?

Thanks for the help,

Phil



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Since i have seen alot of questions on alot of rv groups concerning tires, i
thought i would post this informational diatribe, feel free to continue to post
it on other groups if you like.    mike

Tire Age Can Result in Tire Failure

Tire failure on RV's can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage
to your RV. There are lots of reasons for tire failure on RV's, like under
inflation, over inflation, overloading and the age of the tires. Today I want to
discuss how the age of your RV tires, and exposure to the elements, can lead to
tire failure.


Tires are designed and built to be used. The rubber used in tires ages faster
when they are not used, so more use results in longer tire life. The problem is
lots of RV's don't get used that much.

When tires are manufactured compounds are added to help protect the rubber from
weather cracking and ozone damage. The problem is the tire needs to be rolling
down the road, heating up and flexing for these compounds to work their way to
the surface of the tire and protect the rubber from damage. So, when tires sit
still, like in storage they start to dry out causing them to age faster.

Weather cracking or checking occurs on all tires when they are exposed to heat
and sunlight. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. Ozone in the air
and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your tires. It's not uncommon to
see RV tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the
damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot
and deteriorate. UV rays from the sun , and not using the RV make it happen
quicker.

You need to inspect your tires for weather checking or cracks in the sidewalls
before each trip. Cracks less than 1/32 of an inch deep are ok, but if the
cracks are more than 2/32 of an inch deep the tire should be replaced
immediately. If you notice damage to the tires and you're not sure what to do
have them inspected by a professional.

This faster aging and weather cracking are why tire manufacturers recommend
replacing the tires on RV's when they are 5 to 6 years old, especially if the RV
isn't used that much.

So how can you tell how old the tires are?  All tires manufactured in the United
States have a DOT number. The DOT number may be on the inside or outside
sidewall. At the end of the DOT number the last three or four digits in identify
how old the tire is. Older tires used three digits. The first two identify the
week of the year the tire was built and the third identifies the year. Newer
tires use four digits. For example 3208 is the 32nd week of the year and 08 is
the year 2008. If you question the age of your tires, especially on a used RV,
and you can't find the DOT number have them inspected by a qualified tire
center.

Even though there are many other factors that can affect the life of your RV
tires you can see that the age of the tires is one of the most important
consideration.

Watch a 20/20 report on how the age of tires can result in dangerous tires
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDgSk5xWkrI   (copy and paste if necessary)

Now that we know how age and the elements can affect the life of your RV tires
what can we do to help extend the life of tires when they're not being used?

Considering where and how your RV is being stored can add life to your tires. Of
course a covered, dry garage is the best scenario, but we know this isn't always
possible.

The first step is to clean the tires. Clean the tires with a mild soap and
water. Avoid using tire dressings.  Sidewall rubber contains antioxidants and
anti-ozones that are designed to work their way to the surface of the rubber to
help protect it. Washing tires excessively removes these protective compounds
and can age tires prematurely. The same is true of most tire dressing designed
to make your tires shine.

Inflate the tires to the recommended inflation pressure on the tire sidewall
when in storage. I might add to this, if you live in extreme over 100 degree
heat most of the summer, jack the rv up to take weight off the tires and let out
1/2 the tire pressure in this. this will help in keeping them from heating up
and blowing up while sitting. Quartzsite Az. always has some flattened tires
from folks who leave them over the summer months, because of this.

Avoid storing tires on petroleum based products like asphalt and other heat
absorbing surfaces, and avoid storing tires on frozen ground.

If stored outside you should place some type of barrier between the tire and the
ground surface. Make sure the blocking is wider than the tires tread and longer
than the tires footprint. If tires are not blocked properly and the load
distributed evenly the tire sidewalls can be damaged.

  Avoid any exposure to heat and sunlight. If the RV is stored outside cover the
tires with covers that block out the sun.

The RV should be stored with the least amount of weight on the tires as
possible. That means it should be unloaded prior to storage.

You should move the RV every few months help prevent sidewall cracking from the
tire sitting in one position for too long.

Following these simple tire storage tips can add life to your RV tires, but keep
in mind that tire age and exposure to the elements are leading causes for tire
failure. Make sure you know the age of your RV  and automobile tires and always
inspect your tires for signs of weather cracking before each trip.


Happy Camping,

What a great help.  My Tioga is... the motorhome company that Fleetwood later
bought.  Thanks Mike!

ph



----- Original Message ----
From: mike whatever <gmmullins4@...>
To: classicrv@...
Sent: Monday, August 3, 2009 6:21:14 AM
Subject: Re: [classicrv] Steering on a 74 Dodge Tioga Class C

i am assuming it is the fleetwood class c tioga. pretty simple job actualy, did
you already take it in for a front end alignment? did they say the rest of the
steering assembly is in good shape? ball joints? tie rods? your buddy will be a
hammer and a few handtools,pitman removal the hardest. its a typical dodge van
type chassis for 74. a auto manual for a dodge van covering that year will
suffice.
 
as far as owners manual you wouldn't have received much, the appliances are
pretty much seperate and who knows after all this time if any wiring has been
changed etc.  did you happen to luck out and get one of the old onan generators
that might run? pretty simple gen set, if it still there, and plenty of parts
out there to not only cover the dodge parts but other things as well.
 
here is a copy of the sales broshure if you happen to want one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-Tioga-Dodge-Motorhome-RV-Brochure_W0QQitemZ2\
60363511594QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories?hash=it\
em3c9edfe72a&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

as far as getting it done in LA, well plenty of latino shops would probally do
it. don't know how much they would charge you tho.i would just say get the motor
manual and go from there. autozone probally has it or pepboys.    mike
 

--- On Mon, 8/3/09, Phil Hanson <phanson7@...> wrote:


From: Phil Hanson <phanson7@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Steering on a 74 Dodge Tioga Class C
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 3, 2009, 1:22 AM


 



Hi Everyone,

I have this Tioga I am rebuilding.  [I actually wish I could find a Tioga RV
manual from this era; I'm sure it would help me out....].   It has a steering
problem I have to solve right away and I hope someone can give me some advice. 

The problem is the thing doesn't turn to the R very well, even though after the
RV has been driven around for awhile it turns adequately.  A mechanic told me it
was the worm drive and would be $800 to fix.  I decided to buy a steering
assembly myself and to try to do it, but I am a little worried thinking I may
not be able handle the swap out.  Anyone ever done one of these?  Does anyone in
LA/ Pasadena area know where I could get something like this done?  Is this
something a pretty mechanical non-mechanic can do who has a lot of space, lots
of tools, and a good jack?

Thanks for the help,

Phil

















     

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Thanks for your helpful advice.

I have decided to try a POI database that has been recommended to me on several
forums.

You can download it at http://www.lowclearances.com

It looks really good.

Thanks again.

Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19' Dodge xplorer
class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long hills, it pops right up to the
top of the gauge but never quite boils over. I bought it last year and not
trusting the history I was given I promptly had the radiator flushed, new belts
and hoses, had all the fluids changed and a new water pump (leaked). The 318
runs sweet,purrs like a kitten' even gets reasonable gas mileage. I'm stumped,
It seems the thermostat is working as it sits right in the middle of the safe
zone everywhere but on a big hill. I would be greatful if I could get some
experienced ideas as to where to look first, Thanks, Jim

The manual for my (much older) Dodge M-500 says "Overheat shown on
gauge only,  no coolant loss: check gauge and sending unit".

Mine does the same thing. I flushed the system and replaced the hoses
and fan clutch before I decided there was nothing wrong. The previous
owner was so worried about it that he had a completely separate temp
gauge and sender installed. The second one doesn't get quite so high
and since it's never boiled over or lost coolant, I quit worrying. It
is hard to ignore the gauge, though.

Ron
76 Coachmen

At 10:59 AM 08/05/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19'
>Dodge xplorer class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long
>hills, it pops right up to the top of the gauge but never quite
>boils over. I bought it last year and not trusting the history I was
>given I promptly had the radiator flushed, new belts and hoses, had
>all the fluids changed and a new water pump (leaked). The 318 runs
>sweet,purrs like a kitten' even gets reasonable gas mileage. I'm
>stumped, It seems the thermostat is working as it sits right in the
>middle of the safe zone everywhere but on a big hill. I would be
>greatful if I could get some experienced ideas as to where to look
>first, Thanks, Jim
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jim,  It sounds like you have done all the right things to fix an overheating
motor.  All that's left is to checkout or replace the temperature gauge.  Maybe
it's not working right and is giving you false temperature readings. 
JerryK

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, jim <jtsz143@...> wrote:

From: jim <jtsz143@...>
Subject: [classicrv] xplorer overheating
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 10:59 AM

Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19' Dodge xplorer
class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long hills, it pops right up to the
top of the gauge but never quite boils over. I bought it last year and not
trusting the history I was given I promptly had the radiator flushed, new belts
and hoses, had all the fluids changed and a new water pump (leaked). The 318
runs sweet,purrs like a kitten' even gets reasonable gas mileage. I'm stumped,
It seems the thermostat is working as it sits right in the middle of the safe
zone everywhere but on a big hill. I would be greatful if I could get some
experienced ideas as to where to look first, Thanks, Jim



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

maybe the fan clutch has locked up an its not working right...also may want
to look inot changing otu to dual electric fans, will free up a couple o f
horse power while your at it....

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, jim <jtsz143@...> wrote:

From: jim <jtsz143@...>
Subject: [classicrv] xplorer overheating
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 10:59 AM

Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19' Dodge
xplorer class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long hills, it pops
right up to the top of the gauge but never quite boils over. I bought it
last year and not trusting the history I was given I promptly had the
radiator flushed, new belts and hoses, had all the fluids changed and a new
water pump (leaked). The 318 runs sweet,purrs like a kitten' even gets
reasonable gas mileage. I'm stumped, It seems the thermostat is working as
it sits right in the middle of the safe zone everywhere but on a big hill. I
would be greatful if I could get some experienced ideas as to where to look
first, Thanks, Jim



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

one thing to remember it is pulling more weight than would be normal if it was
just a van, any hill will get almost all rvs up in temp. i would have changed
the thermostat out after all that other stuff you did, just to be safe. but one
thing you can add is a fan to help it cool down, an external trans oil cooler to
take that little bit of heat out of the radiator, and just plain slow down a
little. the harder and faster you push it up the hill the harder it works and
the hotter it gets. i rarely ever see 200degrees for mine, it has always been
below that. but i have a 4 core radiator(changed from a 2 core), and an extra
electric fan, and a seperate trans oil cooler, and i take my time going up
hills. i could if i wanted go up the big grade towards LA at 50-60 if i wanted,
but it just wastes gas and is rough on the engine. so i end up at 30-35 going up
that big grade. haven't found a grade yet that heats it up too much. 
 
and another point....if you still have the old style air that was built on the
engine and you are not using it ever, take that coil core off of in front of the
radiator and and trash it, that will add more air to the radiator as well.   
mike
 
 

--- On e thWwed, 8/5/09, jim <jtsz143@...> wrote
 

From: jim <jtsz143@...>
Subject: [classicrv] xplorer overheating
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 11:59 AM


 



Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19' Dodge xplorer
class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long hills, it pops right up to the
top of the gauge but never quite boils over. I bought it last year and not
trusting the history I was given I promptly had the radiator flushed, new belts
and hoses, had all the fluids changed and a new water pump (leaked). The 318
runs sweet,purrs like a kitten' even gets reasonable gas mileage. I'm stumped,
It seems the thermostat is working as it sits right in the middle of the safe
zone everywhere but on a big hill. I would be greatful if I could get some
experienced ideas as to where to look first, Thanks, Jim



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "jim" <jtsz143@...> wrote:
>
> Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19' Dodge
xplorer class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long hills, it pops right up
to the top of the gauge but never quite boils over. I bought it last year and
not trusting the history I was given I promptly had the radiator flushed, new
belts and hoses, had all the fluids changed and a new water pump (leaked). The
318 runs sweet,purrs like a kitten' even gets reasonable gas mileage. I'm
stumped, It seems the thermostat is working as it sits right in the middle of
the safe zone everywhere but on a big hill. I would be greatful if I could get
some experienced ideas as to where to look first, Thanks, Jim
>
  I would see if the radiator is big enough to the job. Some may have replaced it
with a standard 2 row radiator , if so it would not have enough capacity. It
should be at least a 3 row core. I have a freind who has a 4 row core in his.

Get the radiator tested for no flow in spots (cool spots) by using an
infared temp gun after you get it good and hot. Any good mechanic will have
one.  My 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager had that very problem. I took it to a
mechanic while I had the pop-up behind it. He got behind the wheel and doged
it till it got hot then pulled over and used the temp gun to see if it had
cold spots and it did. He said about 30% of my radiator was clogged.
Flushing did not get it out.  Had to have it rodded out.
Then a year later, Had the factory 2 core radiator replaced with a 3 core
which helped even more.
But it still got hot.  I would have put a larger radiator in but there was
no more room for any.
I even installed a trans cooler for a Chevy Z71 (big cooler) on it and that
helped a little more but still it got hot.

Must be a dodge problem for that era.

--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY


On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 4:37 PM, Dan Anderson <danora2@...> wrote:

>
>
> --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com <classicrv%40yahoogroups.com>, "jim"
> <jtsz143@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi , I was hoping to tap the wisdom of this group, I have a 90 19' Dodge
> xplorer class B with a 318, It wants to overheat on long hills,...snip...
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm considering (haven't decided for sure yet) trading my 1953 vintage airstream
(sob) for something a smidgen bigger.
Due to health reasons, My wife can't sleep in a bed. She has to sleep in a
recliner and since my trailer has no recliner and no room for one, I'm
considering trading.

In Western Kentucky, I have is a vintage mostly remodeled 1953 25 foot Airstream
Cruiser travel trailer.  Pictures: http://www.webshots.com/user/wncol2004
Serial number O(ohio)4032
WBCCI numbers that were (though seriously faded and almost gone) on it are 562
that was registered to Mr and Mrs Fox back in the early 50s. It also went on 2
of Wally Byam's caravans to Mexico. Once in the winter of 1956 and 1958 I do
believe...So it has some traceable history.

Anyone interested? If so, I can tell you more about it.

--
Warren
1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
Western KY

A couple of points; At hiway speeds the fan is not used to cool the radiator. If
it over heats at hiway speeds, it not a fan problem. Also the most current hi
performance radiators are mostly 2-row. The old 4-row radiators are very
restrictive. The more modern designs have wider cross flow tubes, such that they
are as deep a the old 3 or 4 row. But allow better air flow.
     Having said that, most times when its a radiator problem, it a clogged
radiator. Most older radiators did just fine. There were a few bad designs from
the factory, but rarely. I have a 1960 thunderbird that from the factory was
under cooled.
     I know it hard, but it may be worth taking the radiator to a shop and having
it "roded". They will open the tubes to allow better water flow. Just my 2-cents

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, Tony Barnes <ct_net@...> wrote:


From: Tony Barnes
Subject: Re: File - Welcome to ClassicRV
To: "classicrv Moderator" <classicrv-owner@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 5:10 PM







Hello and thank you for the kind welcome.
 
About me: I was raised around camping in my early years and got mostly away from
it when I hit my teens.  Now I am a Dad and my kids love to camp as they have
been going with Grandma and Grandpa since they were maybe 1yrs old.  However,
their version of camping is a Fifth wheel with all amenities.  So when we and
the to other couples we hang with decided to get into it as a group, we had to
look for something we could afford, with some amenities.
 
We bought a 1978 Coachmen Class C.  Advertised as everything works.  We bought
it pretty much on faith, since we had asked lots of questions and had many
pictures.  We took possession and had a blow out on the 160 mile trip home.  Not
a great start.  That was this last weekend. each night we have found more things
that doesn't work.  So we have a project on our hands and we may get out before
the snow flies but we'll see.  The kids decided it may be a while so they have
elected to go with the grand parents and they are headed out there now.
 
I was hoping to use this group as a resource for education and suggestions as I
ready my rig for family outings.
 
Again thank you for the welcome and look forward to reading what others have to
say about there experiences,  triumphs and defeats.
 Thanks -T.










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

blown tires, yep a delemia for rv owners, under five(years) stay alive, works
best.     mike


--- On Thu, 8/6/09, JerryK <regal5575@...> wrote:


From: JerryK <regal5575@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Re: - Welcome to ClassicRV
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 6, 2009, 1:39 PM


 




--- On Wed, 8/5/09, Tony Barnes <ct_net@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Tony Barnes
Subject: Re: File - Welcome to ClassicRV
To: "classicrv Moderator" <classicrv-owner@ yahoogroups. com>
Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 5:10 PM

Hello and thank you for the kind welcome.
 
About me: I was raised around camping in my early years and got mostly away from
it when I hit my teens.  Now I am a Dad and my kids love to camp as they have
been going with Grandma and Grandpa since they were maybe 1yrs old.  However,
their version of camping is a Fifth wheel with all amenities.  So when we and
the to other couples we hang with decided to get into it as a group, we had to
look for something we could afford, with some amenities.
 
We bought a 1978 Coachmen Class C.  Advertised as everything works.  We bought
it pretty much on faith, since we had asked lots of questions and had many
pictures.  We took possession and had a blow out on the 160 mile trip home.  Not
a great start.  That was this last weekend. each night we have found more things
that doesn't work.  So we have a project on our hands and we may get out before
the snow flies but we'll see.  The kids decided it may be a while so they have
elected to go with the grand parents and they are headed out there now.
 
I was hoping to use this group as a resource for education and suggestions as I
ready my rig for family outings.
 
Again thank you for the welcome and look forward to reading what others have to
say about there experiences,  triumphs and defeats.
 Thanks -T.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am looking for a hubcap for my 1982 Kit Companion. If you have one and are
willing to sell it, I would be interested.

I have posted a picture of what I am looking for in the photo album under "Clays
1982 Kit companion".

Please take a look

TIA
Clay

Hello All

I have a 1988 Dolphin motorhome.  The mice & chipmunks think it is a rolling
condominium.  Currently I am using alot of  poison, but do not  like to.  The
main problems are in front by the engine, the basement and in the back between
the outer and inner walls.

My plan for the back is to pack the space with aluminum window screen material
and seal it with "great stuff" foam.

Does anyone have any other ideas or experience with this that might work?

thank you
-Rodger

Rodger,

Dryer sheets (fabric softener) and/or Moth ball have worked for me (more than
once) for Mice.  Don't have any solution for the Chipmonks though.

bobb



>>> "Rodger Kitt" <rkitt@...> wrote:





Hello All

I have a 1988 Dolphin motorhome. The mice & chipmunks think it is a rolling
condominium. Currently I am using alot of poison, but do not like to. The main
problems are in front by the engine, the basement and in the back between the
outer and inner walls.

My plan for the back is to pack the space with aluminum window screen material
and seal it with "great stuff" foam.

Does anyone have any other ideas or experience with this that might work?

thank you
-Rodger









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

the thing i did was covered those areas that had plain wood with tin sheeting.
it is easy to find at most hardware and lumber stores, for the engine area there
is not much you can really do but keep an eye out and check before starting the
engine. i have seen people use everything and every myth type of thing and they
still get wires chewed up in the engine compartment. i have a cat that lives
with us, when we let her outside she pretty much stays around the house here, we
also have other cats that are pretty much wild that we keep food out for, never
a problem yet, but i do check the engine area before i do start the rig up, same
for the gen set area fuel lines.
 
when we are in quartzsite, plenty of folks get pack rats that think everything
is theirs, and again have seen nothing that will keep those critters out if they
want into the engine compartment, but they sure don't get past the tin i had to
put over areas where exposed painted wood was under the house.
 
i have seen some put those sticky strips down and catch a few, but still end up
with wires chewed. but heck if ya get caught in the desert doing it, you get a
ticket.
 
dryer sheets these may work for a week till they dry out and no longer work
moth balls may work for a little while till they get used to the smell
expanding foam...well i have seen holes made by mice right through the stuff
plastic covers yep they can chew right through it
poisens, take time to work, and during that time they have already chewed their
way into the house, nothing worse than a dead smelly mouse where you can't find
it.
sprays; only last til they dry up usually a few days
cat urine, or other types of urine from hunting stores, smelly deal for sure
fresh cab: they say it works for three months, haven't seen it tested in the
real yet:
http://www.goodearthenterprises.com/
if you use it let us know how it works.
plain mouse traps attract mice with the bait you put on there and only catch the
one who made it there first the second one eats the bait and then goes on to the
motorhome or rv.
covering wood, covering holes with mesh, checking the rv once a week, starting
the engine on a motorhome once a week,some of this seems to be a better deterent
than alot of other ways.
for squirels you definetly got a problem!! best you can do is trap them and
relocate them, or outright kill them with a bb gun or some other weapon. they
are smart and resourceful. you can watch for their signs by openings even the
air cleaner which might be their new storage place for food.(which can bring
mice to the house) and most poisens that work on rats and mice will not get
them.
ultrasonic pest controllers well if you can get them to work, good luck!
 
the problem with exposed wiring and plastic and rubber on motorhomes and rvs is
that they just love to chew them, no real way yet to get this to not happen on a
consistent basis. so checking things out uner the engine cowel and the rest of
the home will go a long way in protecting your investment.      mike
 
 

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Rodger Kitt <rkitt@...> wrote:


From: Rodger Kitt <rkitt@...>
Subject: [classicrv] Any rodent proffing ideas?
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 11:15 AM


 



Hello All

I have a 1988 Dolphin motorhome. The mice & chipmunks think it is a rolling
condominium. Currently I am using alot of poison, but do not like to. The main
problems are in front by the engine, the basement and in the back between the
outer and inner walls.

My plan for the back is to pack the space with aluminum window screen material
and seal it with "great stuff" foam.

Does anyone have any other ideas or experience with this that might work?

thank you
-Rodger



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have not tried this, but have a thought that it "MIGHT" work for the wiring
problem.
My suggestion is to get some "gunk" engine cleaner and (read the directions
first to make sure it doesnt do any harm ) then spray it in the engine
compartment. Especially in the wiring area..
Being petroleum based it might keep the vermin away>>???
I understand the the composition of wiring insulation has changed and is now
some type of grain based product, which certainly attracts the attention of the
mice etc.

This is Just what I have heard..
antiqbob



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey all, my name is Meredith and I just joined the list after searching for
classic RV's on Yahoo groups. I'm in the process of buying a 73 Dodge El Dorado
Class C from a friends Grandmother.
I know almost nothing about motorhomes, but I'm fairly familiar with Dodges
having owned a lot of various classic Dodges since I first got my drivers
license. I'm figuring this is going to be different *grin*.
I wanted an older motorhome so I wouldn't have to mess with all the computer
stuff you find in newer vehicles
This one I know runs, roughly, but runs, it hasn't been driven in a couple years
due to Grandma not having a license, it has a roof leak, the side door doesn't
shut all the way, and I'm sure there are lots of other little things. But we'll
fix em along the way.

I'm a homesteader, so this is going to be another one of my projects, figuring
out ways to make this vehicle do the work of 80 things LOL (including a guest
house when we have visitors). It may eventually even be a house for me if/when I
sell this place and move on to bigger things.

Glad to be here.

Meredith

Welcome to the group Meredith. Just take you time with the restoration and
expect to find problems as you go along. I hope the roof leak hasn't caused
structural damage

   Lynnie


     Hey all, my name is Meredith and I just joined the list after searching for
classic RV's on Yahoo groups. I'm in the process of buying a 73 Dodge El Dorado
Class C from a friends Grandmother.
   I know almost nothing about motorhomes, but I'm fairly familiar with Dodges
having owned a lot of various classic Dodges since I first got my drivers
license. I'm figuring this is going to be different *grin*.
   I wanted an older motorhome so I wouldn't have to mess with all the computer
stuff you find in newer vehicles
   This one I know runs, roughly, but runs, it hasn't been driven in a couple
years due to Grandma not having a license, it has a roof leak, the side door
doesn't shut all the way, and I'm sure there are lots of other little things.
But we'll fix em along the way.

   I'm a homesteader, so this is going to be another one of my projects, figuring
out ways to make this vehicle do the work of 80 things LOL (including a guest
house when we have visitors). It may eventually even be a house for me if/when I
sell this place and move on to bigger things.

   Glad to be here.

   Meredith






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a 6 gallon Atwood water heater with pilot that is giving me fits. The
thermostat is set to turn off at 120 degrees F. but during the night the water
temp will creep up to between 140-150 F. Is this normal?