Tom,

for clarification; screenshot attached.

Item  #2: hub / clutch.




On Tue, 2009-12-01 at 14:00 +0000, heretictoo wrote:
>
> Maybe I'm wrong but it seems as though you two guys are on different
> pages with this clutch. One of you is talking about the "hub" and the
> other is referring to the "clutch shaft".
>
> To me, the "hub" is one of the pieces that the clutch disc is
> sandwiched between while the "clutch shaft" is the item bolted to the
> engine flywheel that the entire clutch is mounted on.
>
> You CAN lightly sand the clutch shaft to try and remove sharp edges
> but if the wear is heavy, then you must either repair or replace that
> shaft. WHY? One of the reasons is that there are three ball bearing
> races that reside on that shaft and the shaft is sized to gently grip
> the inner race of those bearings so that the bearing itself spins WITH
> the shaft. If there is too much clearance, then the bearing won't spin
> in harmony with the shaft. Instead, the shaft will spin inside the
> bore of the bearing's inner race, causing the shaft to wear even more
> and create fresh sharp edges.
>
> If you owned a vehicle with a standard shift transmission, it would
> have a clutch assembly consisting of a pressure plate, clutch disc,
> flywheel, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and throwout fork. When the
> clutch can no longer be adjusted, it must be replaced and no
> self-respecting mechanic would just toss a fresh clutch disc in and
> tell the customer to be on their way. Good mechanics understand that
> every part of a clutch assembly has substantial wear and tear on it
> and therefore, should be replaced in order to get a properly working
> clutch that will last for a long time.
>
> Clutches are a wear part that begins to deteriorate the second the
> machine is put into use. Owners have a tendency to neglect the clutch.
> As long as the deck spins, they think everything must be OK and so
> they neglect to do routine clutch adjustments. As the clutch wears
> more and more, slippage begins to take place every time the deck
> encounters heavy grass. Owners don't even realize that this is
> happening until the deck stalls the second they start to mow grass.
>
> All of that slippage causes heat and that heat causes damage to the
> clutch parts. Springy parts lose their tempering and can no longer
> function as they once did. While Belleville washers might look OK to
> the eye, the average owner has no way of knowing whether they still
> deliver the pressure needed to make the clutch work properly. Those
> washers are what you are compressing when you engage the clutch. They
> are the equivilent to the springs in a car's pressure plate and are
> there to keep the disc from slipping and to keep the clutch engaged.
>
> When rebuilding the PTO clutch on your tractor, every part is suspect
> and every part is replacable. The foot bone is connected to the ankle
> bone and the ankle bone is connected to the leg bone and the leg bone
> is connected to the knee bone........... and so the song goes. If the
> leg is expected to work 100 percent, then all the bones must be 100
> percent or you will walk with a limp or not walk at all.
>
> Tom A.
>
> --- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, waylon <waylon@...> wrote:
> >
> > ed,
> >
> > It looks like the hub could be "machined" down enough to get rid of
> the
> > majority of grooves with cloth it would take to much time and would
> be
> > to hard "for me to get a true flat surface". but if I did would I
> have
> > to add that back in spacers or would I have to subtract that
> thickness
> > of spacers to make the adjustment correct, and within tolerance.
> >
> > And would taking off that much metal make the hub distort under
> load, or
> > overheat and warp during use.
> >
> > myself I am not qualified to do a turn down "I am a lathe klutz".
> >
> > I simply purchased a complete ez-hub assembly from a member here.
> after
> > I get the rest of the parts that are still in route / shipping and
> get
> > the 446 up and running. I will puzzle out how to repair it for a
> backup
> > assembly, or which parts are salvageable for stock.
> >
> > As for the screw locations, you have 2 holding the hub to the
> flywheel,
> > then "in my case" I had 2 under the hub holding the grass screen and
> the
> > outer screen retainer screws (3). All had been wormed out so no
> allen
> > wrench "metric or english would hold. I had to drive a torx t-30
> into
> > the first one--remove it "heat the screw with a propane torch and
> then
> > using the hammer impact drive it out". The 2'nd screw was wormed out
> > beyond a t-30 but smaller than a torx t-40 so I measured the points
> of a
> > t-40 and the inside grooves "averaged the 2 measurements got a
> hardened
> > drill bit "and said a prayer" drilled it to depth. hammered a t-40
> in
> > until it bottomed out. removed it. heated it with the propane torch
> and
> > hammered it out. Basically the same with all the grass screen
> screws.
> >
> > On the bright side you don't have to remove the grass screen "unless
> > your a klutz like me and drop a bolt down the blower assembly
> breather
> > tube. But for me it was lucky "I found that the whole assembly was
> held
> > only by the top bolt" and that was allowing the screen guard to hit
> the
> > housing and the flywheel.
> >
> > And for the gentlemen that helped me with suggestions, you will
> notice I
> > had to use every-ones advice. Kudos to all of you. This is what
> makes
> > the list so great.
> >
> > And a special thanks to Brian for spending so much time emailing
> back
> > and forth to make sure I was getting the right parts, and the right
> > quantities, and that I was using the right part numbers.
> >
> > Again thanks guys.
> >
> > Waylon
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 2009-11-30 at 19:31 -0500, Janed4492@... wrote:
> > >
> > > waylon
> > > will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble
> > > adjusting the clutch. is there a way to smooth out the grooves if
> > > they are too deep, if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus
> > > cloth fine grade. where would the screws be when i replace the
> clutch
> > > that you would have to use a hammer drive to remove. ed
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>

Thanks Boomer, I appreciate the brochure. The guy I bought it off of had it on a
646 for quite a while. I would like to know why it's not recommended. I made the
assumption that it would be fine on my 648. I'm sure there is a reason, they
just wouldn't leave it off the ok list from a sales standpoint for no reason.
I'm hoping it's just mounting. I'd love to hear all opinions on it though before
I break something. There's not many of these in my area (southern NH) so I was
happy to find this to add to my growing collection.

--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Boomer" <boomers_influence@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> club. shortly i will have my son post the sales brochure for the three case
splitters. they are in the new photos.
> then you can all decide why it is not rec. for the 600 series.
> i have an opinion, but i will see if any of you agree. boomer
>
>
>
>
> --- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Fred J. Baker" <fredbaker@> wrote:
> >
> > Rol,  I am trying to donate your tractor for you to a worthy cause ....  LOL
...
> >
> > Fred B
> >
>

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems as though you two guys are on different pages with
this clutch. One of you is talking about the "hub" and the other is referring to
the "clutch shaft".

To me, the "hub" is one of the pieces that the clutch disc is sandwiched between
while the "clutch shaft" is the item bolted to the engine flywheel that the
entire clutch is mounted on.

You CAN lightly sand the clutch shaft to try and remove sharp edges but if the
wear is heavy, then you must either repair or replace that shaft.  WHY? One of
the reasons is that there are three ball bearing races that reside on that shaft
and the shaft is sized to gently grip the inner race of those bearings so that
the bearing itself spins WITH the shaft. If there is too much clearance, then
the bearing won't spin in harmony with the shaft. Instead, the shaft will spin
inside the bore of the bearing's inner race, causing the shaft to wear even more
and create fresh sharp edges.

If you owned a vehicle with a standard shift transmission, it would have a
clutch assembly consisting of a pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel, pilot
bearing, throwout bearing and throwout fork. When the clutch can no longer be
adjusted, it must be replaced and no self-respecting mechanic would just toss a
fresh clutch disc in and tell the customer to be on their way. Good mechanics
understand that every part of a clutch assembly has substantial wear and tear on
it and therefore, should be replaced in order to get a properly working clutch
that will last for a long time.

Clutches are a wear part that begins to deteriorate the second the machine is
put into use.  Owners have a tendency to neglect the clutch. As long as the deck
spins, they think everything must be OK and so they neglect to do routine clutch
adjustments. As the clutch wears more and more, slippage begins to take place
every time the deck encounters heavy grass. Owners don't even realize that this
is happening until the deck stalls the second they start to mow grass.

All of that slippage causes heat and that heat causes damage to the clutch
parts. Springy parts lose their tempering and can no longer function as they
once did. While Belleville washers might look OK to the eye, the average owner
has no way of knowing whether they still deliver the pressure needed to make the
clutch work properly. Those washers are what you are compressing when you engage
the clutch. They are the equivilent to the springs in a car's pressure plate and
are there to keep the disc from slipping and to keep the clutch engaged.

When rebuilding the PTO clutch on your tractor, every part is suspect and every
part is replacable. The foot bone is connected to the ankle bone and the ankle
bone is connected to the leg bone and the leg bone is connected to the knee
bone........... and so the song goes. If the leg is expected to work 100
percent, then all the bones must be 100 percent or you will walk with a limp or
not walk at all.

Tom A.



--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, waylon <waylon@...> wrote:
>
> ed,
>
> It looks like the hub could be "machined" down enough to get rid of the
> majority of grooves with cloth it would take to much time and would be
> to hard "for me to get a true flat surface". but if I did would I have
> to add that back in spacers or would I have to subtract that thickness
> of spacers to make the adjustment correct, and within tolerance.
>
> And would taking off that much metal make the hub distort under load, or
> overheat and warp during use.
>
> myself I am not qualified to do a turn down "I am a lathe klutz".
>
> I simply purchased a complete ez-hub assembly from a member here. after
> I get the rest of the parts that are still in route / shipping and get
> the 446 up and running. I will puzzle out how to repair it for a backup
> assembly, or which parts are salvageable for stock.
>
> As for the screw locations, you have 2 holding the hub to the flywheel,
> then "in my case" I had 2 under the hub holding the grass screen and the
> outer screen retainer screws (3). All had been wormed out so no allen
> wrench "metric or english would hold. I had to drive a torx t-30 into
> the first one--remove it "heat the screw with a propane torch and then
> using the hammer impact drive it out". The 2'nd screw was wormed out
> beyond a t-30 but smaller than a torx t-40 so I measured the points of a
> t-40 and the inside grooves "averaged the 2 measurements got a hardened
> drill bit "and said a prayer" drilled it to depth. hammered a t-40 in
> until it bottomed out. removed it. heated it with the propane torch and
> hammered it out. Basically the same with all the grass screen screws.
>
> On the bright side you don't have to remove the grass screen "unless
> your a klutz like me and drop a bolt down the blower assembly breather
> tube. But for me it was lucky "I found that the whole assembly was held
> only by the top bolt" and that was allowing the screen guard to hit the
> housing and the flywheel.
>
> And for the gentlemen that helped me with suggestions, you will notice I
> had to use every-ones advice.  Kudos to all of you. This is what makes
> the list so great.
>
> And a special thanks to Brian for spending so much time emailing back
> and forth to make sure I was getting the right parts, and the right
> quantities, and that I was using the right part numbers.
>
> Again thanks guys.
>
> Waylon
>
>
>
> On Mon, 2009-11-30 at 19:31 -0500, Janed4492@... wrote:
> >
> > waylon
> >     will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble
> > adjusting the clutch.  is there a way to smooth out the grooves if
> > they are too deep, if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus
> > cloth fine grade.  where would the screws be when i replace the clutch
> > that you would have to use a hammer drive to remove.      ed
> >
> >
> >
>

I did have to make a 3 pt attachment (I added some pics to the album tim) but it
does split well (until something bursts)

Now I wish I stuck with my wifes lack of interest lol

--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Fred J. Baker" <fredbaker@...>
wrote:
>
> Aside from the obvious differances such as relief valve setting, single/dual
action, and unit mounted control valve. The only differance I suspect is the
J-31 is not designed to mount on the 600 series. However my observation cannot
hold water because he said his J-31 was on the 600 series and works well.
>
> Fred B
>

I hate it when something becomes "interesting" at my expense lol.

--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, Rol Farrar <rolfarrar@...> wrote:
>
> Fred.
> That is pretty much how I see it, but must be some reason. Perhaps Bart's
comment on the relief valve may have some bearing. Will be interesting to follow
this subject matter!
>
> Rol
>
> A lazy mind finds easier solutions!
>
>
> --- On Mon, 11/30/09, Fred Baker <fredbaker@...> wrote:
>
> From: Fred Baker <fredbaker@...>
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] J31 log splitter
> To: casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, November 30, 2009, 4:35 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       
>
>
> Rol,  I have to wonder why just like you have however,
> that is the way I read it off the Ingersoll parts PDF ( I think ) ?  I
> would think a hitch and hydraulic power is all you need .....Â
> Â
> Fred B
> Â
> Â Â
>

----- Original Message -----

From: merlyn_of_camelot

To: casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 11:14 PM

Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points

 

Then either your points are shorting out or the wire from the coil is grounding. Closely check that it is not pinched between the cover and the plate, where it makes a sharp bend, sometimes it will become bare and ground the points out.

Terrance

--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, <lchetherman@...> wrote:
>
> The points have 12.3 volts off the coil - side when not mounted to the engine. I mounted the points assembly to the engine and tested the voltage with the points open and only got .2 to .4 volts. Even when closed the voltage was the same. Also, on the (-) terminal off the coil I only had .4 volts when the set was mounted. I get 12.3 volts when not mounted.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: BOB MERKLER
> To: casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points
>
>
>
>
> Chris
> when points close its to ground which fires coil.......when points open should have the 12.3v.
> Bob M
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 9:31 PM, <lchetherman@...> wrote:
>
>
> 
>
> Bob,
> I took the Points housing off tonight and do not see a gasket. I tested and I have 12.3 volts going into the coil and then 12.3 at the points when it is not attached to the engine block. When I mount it I have about .volts, which leads me to believe that the gasket is critical in keeping the system from grounding out. However, I still question why the points would not show 12.3 volts because they should be separate from the mounting bracket because they have the ceramic or plastic housing to keep from grounding out.
> Would you have any suggestions? I can send you a photo if necessary?
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: BOB MERKLER
> To: casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 9:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points
>
>
>
>
> Chris
> if gasket gone, a light coat of silcon would work.....just to insure dirt not entering engine thru point plunger hole. Bob M
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 10:19 AM, christopher Hetherman <lchetherman@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks Barton,
> I see the gasket in your attachement. This is the same breakdown I have, but for some reason I thought the parts I have match this. I will take my breaker assembly back apart to evaluate the if the gasket is missing. The strange thing is that I don't think I took the points assembly apart before experiencing this issue. However, I have done so many things to try to figure out this issue that I may have had a bad condenser or something small and lost the gasket when I removed the assembly.
> I will check this later today.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> From: Barton Cameron <bfcameron@...>
> To: casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: lchetherman@...
> Sent: Sun, November 29, 2009 9:05:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points [1 Attachment]
>
>
>
> Chris,
>
> I am sending you a copy of the parts manual with the gasket info and illustration. You should be able to get one from any source of Onan parts or make your own.
>
> Bart
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> From: christopher Hetherman <lchetherman@ att.net>
> To: casegardentractors@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sun, November 29, 2009 8:54:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points
>
>
>
> Bart,
> For some reason I must have lost the gasket. Do you know where I can find a new one. My ONAN and CASE repair manual and old schematics does not show one or a part number?
> In the mean time I will check my garage where I am doing the work to determine if I can find it.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> From: Barton Cameron <bfcameron@sbcglobal .net>
> To: casegardentractors@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sun, November 29, 2009 6:24:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points
>
>
>
> There is a gasket between the mounting plate and block.
>
> Bart
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> From: christopher Hetherman <lchetherman@ att.net>
> To: casegardentractors@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sat, November 28, 2009 8:52:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points
>
>
>
> Dear Fred,
> Thanks for the reply:
> All replacement parts are Genuine ONAN, I bought the new coil along with the other electric parts to confirm that each part was good because one by one I tried to narrow down the issue to something simple. I started with the usual, points, condenser, then key switch, solonoid, ground cable, etc.
> The battery is fully charged, 12+volts.
> The point gap is set at .021"
> I feel like it may be somthing simple like a grounding issue. Can you tell me if there is some type of plate to seperate the bottom of the points and condenser mounting bracket from the block? I don't remember removing anything and the book does not show anything special there, but I thought I should ask.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> From: Fred J. Baker <fredbaker@att. net>
> To: casegardentractors@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Thu, November 26, 2009 6:08:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] CASE 446 has power to the electric system but no spark at the points
>
>
> 
>
> Did you use Onan replacement parts or something else ? Why did you replace the coil ? What is the point gap set at ? Is the battery fully charged ?
>
> Fred B
>

Tom Hanson and Brian Hildreth are members of this group and often gives us the
benefit of their knowledge of the Case/Ingersoll Tractors.
It would be nice if we would patronize their businesses when we need parts
and equipment. Below is the contact information for their businesses.


Sheridan Service Garage Co.
E 519 Rieben Road
Waupaca, Wis. 54981
(715) 256-1600
fax (715) 258-7682
Tom Hanson
email  THANSONWI@...


Salem Power Equipment, LLC
Plymouth, MI 48170
734-649-1781
Brian Hildreth
President
bhildret@...
SalemPwr@...

Hello and welcome to the Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractor Group. There are a
few things we would like to bring to your attention.

#1. We often get asked about what type of oil to use in the hydraulic system of
these tractors. Your Tractor uses Motor oil in the Hydraulic system NOT
Hydraulic Fluid, Use a good grade of Multi-weight Motor Oil. The recommended
weights are 20W-40, 20W-50, 15W-40,(the 20W-40 is hard to find) or in warm
weather 30W motor oil is safe to use.

2. We have an extensive files area with a ton of information to help you
maintain your tractor. Please go there and look it over for yourself and become
familiar with its use. You can find what year your Tractor is to just about
anything you will need to maintain it.  The files section can be found here:
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casegardentractors/files/>

3. We also have an extensive archive of the mailing list, any problem you could
possibly have with your tractor has likely been covered before, so please try a
search of the messages before you ask on list, We are very willing to help you
but do get tired of answering the very same questions over and over every few
days. The message archives can be found here:
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casegardentractors/messages>

Thank You

Terrance

> if you  go to lowes  they can match up the exact paint color all i did was
took a  sample  to them
Interesting. Must not be the case for ALL Lowes though... Ours doesn't
have a stitch of any type of "equipment enamel". I asked and all they
had was a few generic colors of rustoleum.

grummy

iam  working  on a76 case 446  iam ive put a single wisconsin  diesal on it 
without much problems  iam building it for the  4 foot tiller i think it would
handle it just fine   iam thinking how to put a front pto on it to run the four
foot blower   ive got a 444 with a 18 vtwin on it when i give it gas  the darn
motor twist to the one side  thats tourqe  awsome  and that blower spins fast
that you cant see the auger spin  its a wind tunnel coming out the shoot  i call
it the meat grinder  if you  go to lowes  they can match up the exact paint
color all i did was took a  sample  to them  its for the  446   i sand blasted
it down to yhe frame  to get a fresh start  ill post pictures soon  on both  and
also ive have parts for the  cases  and onan parts

ed,

It looks like the hub could be "machined" down enough to get rid of the
majority of grooves with cloth it would take to much time and would be
to hard "for me to get a true flat surface". but if I did would I have
to add that back in spacers or would I have to subtract that thickness
of spacers to make the adjustment correct, and within tolerance.

And would taking off that much metal make the hub distort under load, or
overheat and warp during use.

myself I am not qualified to do a turn down "I am a lathe klutz".

I simply purchased a complete ez-hub assembly from a member here. after
I get the rest of the parts that are still in route / shipping and get
the 446 up and running. I will puzzle out how to repair it for a backup
assembly, or which parts are salvageable for stock.

As for the screw locations, you have 2 holding the hub to the flywheel,
then "in my case" I had 2 under the hub holding the grass screen and the
outer screen retainer screws (3). All had been wormed out so no allen
wrench "metric or english would hold. I had to drive a torx t-30 into
the first one--remove it "heat the screw with a propane torch and then
using the hammer impact drive it out". The 2'nd screw was wormed out
beyond a t-30 but smaller than a torx t-40 so I measured the points of a
t-40 and the inside grooves "averaged the 2 measurements got a hardened
drill bit "and said a prayer" drilled it to depth. hammered a t-40 in
until it bottomed out. removed it. heated it with the propane torch and
hammered it out. Basically the same with all the grass screen screws.

On the bright side you don't have to remove the grass screen "unless
your a klutz like me and drop a bolt down the blower assembly breather
tube. But for me it was lucky "I found that the whole assembly was held
only by the top bolt" and that was allowing the screen guard to hit the
housing and the flywheel.

And for the gentlemen that helped me with suggestions, you will notice I
had to use every-ones advice.  Kudos to all of you. This is what makes
the list so great.

And a special thanks to Brian for spending so much time emailing back
and forth to make sure I was getting the right parts, and the right
quantities, and that I was using the right part numbers.

Again thanks guys.

Waylon



On Mon, 2009-11-30 at 19:31 -0500, Janed4492@... wrote:
>
> waylon
>     will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble
> adjusting the clutch.  is there a way to smooth out the grooves if
> they are too deep, if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus
> cloth fine grade.  where would the screws be when i replace the clutch
> that you would have to use a hammer drive to remove.      ed
>
>
>

Is there a torque spec for the spindle nuts on a J44 deck,I'm using new nuts on
a deck rebuild. Thanks

rol. hide and watch. SMILE boomer



--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, Rol Farrar <rolfarrar@...> wrote:
>
> It has a 1900 PSI relief, dictated by the light construction, but that would
still be there if hooked to a 600 series tractor!??? I know I am missing
something, probably obvious, because Case would not restrict it for no reason.
So, fill me in!
>
> Rol
>
> A lazy mind finds easier solutions!
>
>
> --- On Mon, 11/30/09, Boomer <boomers_influence@...> wrote:
>
> From: Boomer <boomers_influence@...>
> Subject: Re: [CaseGT] J31 log splitter
> To: casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, November 30, 2009, 9:15 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> They were uploaded to the Files section under the Log Splitter Folder, so that
they can be read easily. Boomer
>
>
>
> --- In casegardentractors@ yahoogroups. com, "Boomer" <boomers_influence@ ...>
wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > club. shortly i will have my son post the sales brochure for the three case
splitters. they are in the new photos.
>
> > then you can all decide why it is not rec. for the 600 series.
>
> > i have an opinion, but i will see if any of you agree. boomer
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In casegardentractors@ yahoogroups. com, "Fred J. Baker" <fredbaker@>
wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > Rol,  I am trying to donate your tractor for you to a worthy cause .... 
LOL ...
>
> > >
>
> > > Fred B
>
> > >
>
> >
>

Usually if the grooves are deep the clutch hub shaft needs to be repaired by
sleeving it or metalizing it. Sleeving seems to be the preferred method and
requires some lathe work.

Fred B






--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, Janed4492@... wrote:
>
> waylon
>      will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble adjusting
> the clutch.  is there a way to smooth out the grooves if they are too deep,
> if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus cloth fine grade.  where
> would the screws be when i replace the clutch that you would have to use a
> hammer drive to remove.      ed
>

john. i think they are talking about the shaft, that all three brgs. ride on.
when they are grooved to bad the clutch will not operate properly. boomer





--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "John J. Condic" <gadgetman28@...>
wrote:
>
> Waylon,
>
> I have three Ez and one shim clutches laying around in my work
> shed.  I'm assuming you are talking grooves in the hub plate. I tried
> to take the grooves out of the hub plate only to discover that the
> thickest of the plate matters.  If you take too much off, you can't
> get the unit adjusted properly. The big nut pushes everything back,
> but when the plate wears thin something has to be added in back of
> the plate to compensate for the wear, or to push it forward.  I ended
> up buying another clutch and had this hub/shaft turned down to use
> for electric clutch project.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
> At 06:31 PM 11/30/2009, you wrote:
>
>
> >waylon
> >     will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble
> > adjusting the clutch.  is there a way to smooth out the grooves if
> > they are too deep, if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus
> > cloth fine grade.  where would the screws be when i replace the
> > clutch that you would have to use a hammer drive to remove.      ed
> >
> >
>

waylon
    will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble adjusting the clutch.  is there a way to smooth out the grooves if they are too deep, if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus cloth fine grade.  where would the screws be when i replace the clutch that you would have to use a hammer drive to remove.      ed

jane. go to the FILES section. both clutches are listed.
study the pages and get back to us. boomer



--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, Janed4492@... wrote:
>
> waylon
>      will the grooves on the clutch shaft cause a lot of trouble adjusting
> the clutch.  is there a way to smooth out the grooves if they are too deep,
> if shallow can they be sanded dowm with crocus cloth fine grade.  where
> would the screws be when i replace the clutch that you would have to use a
> hammer drive to remove.      ed
>

They were uploaded to the Files section under the Log Splitter Folder, so that
they can be read easily. Boomer








--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Boomer" <boomers_influence@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> club. shortly i will have my son post the sales brochure for the three case
splitters. they are in the new photos.
> then you can all decide why it is not rec. for the 600 series.
> i have an opinion, but i will see if any of you agree. boomer
>
>
>
>
> --- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Fred J. Baker" <fredbaker@> wrote:
> >
> > Rol,  I am trying to donate your tractor for you to a worthy cause ....  LOL
...
> >
> > Fred B
> >
>

club. shortly i will have my son post the sales brochure for the three case
splitters. they are in the new photos.
then you can all decide why it is not rec. for the 600 series.
i have an opinion, but i will see if any of you agree. boomer




--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Fred J. Baker" <fredbaker@...>
wrote:
>
> Rol,  I am trying to donate your tractor for you to a worthy cause ....  LOL
...
>
> Fred B
>

rick. as fred stated, MUST be power rated. if not, you may as well throw your
5.00 on the ground, and let the wind take it away.
carquest handles Gates belts. you will not buy a power rated belt for 5.00
in the links section there is a Gates cross ref. good luck boomer





--- In casegardentractors@yahoogroups.com, "Fred J. Baker" <fredbaker@...>
wrote:
>
> Rick,  I don't see where they indicate Kevlar in the construction or power
rated which are 2 components of a quality belt for the Case/Ingersoll needs.
$5.00 for a power rated belt doesn't get my attention... They do say to inquire
about their Ag/Lawn belt line for information. If you are against buying OEM
belts then TSC power rated ( blue ) belts for $15.00 are my 2 nd. choice ... 
JMHO ...
>
> Fred B
>