Robert Lundy Wrote:
--------------------------------------------------
I appreciate the input.  I hadn't thought of beveling the outer third the way
you mention.  That would look pretty neat.  But it might preclude my favorite
method of having a square edge to run my router around to cut the final shape
of the deck after its has been attached.  I have looked at Patrick Crockett's
pics alot.  It looks like he went the recessed route (and it really does look
nice).  I'm pretty sure I'd screw this up badly.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Did you get the .JPG picture I sent you?

The method I describe does not preclude using the router to cut the decks. Once
you get the first (inner) strake of the wales on, fit and cut the decks with
your router. Then you can finish adding the other two strakes. After you get all
the wales on, you can permanently attach the decks.

Best,

JB

This came in on a canoeing list I subscribe to. I thought the group would enjoy
it:
_______________________________________________________________



  Peter Parry wrote (on the Subject of the Expanding Foam):

A friend of mine once built a canoe.  He spent a long time on it and it was a
work of art. Almost the final phase was to fill both ends with polyureathane
expanding foam.

  He duly ordered the bits from Mr Glasplies (an excellent purveyor of all things
fibreglass) and it arrived in two packs covered with appropriately dire warnings
about expansion ratios and some very good notes on how to use it.

  Unfortunately he had a degree, worse still two of them.  One was in Chemistry,
so the instructions got thrown away and the other in something mathematical
because in a few minutes he was merrily calculating the volume of his craft to
many decimal places and the guidelines got binned as well.

  He propped the canoe up on one end, got a huge tin, carefully measured the
calculated amounts of glop, mixed them and quickly poured the mixture in the end
of the canoe (The two pack expands very rapidly).

  I arrived as he was completing this and I looked in to see the end chamber over
half full of something Cawdors  Witches would have been proud of.  Two thing
occurred to me, one was the label which said in big letters: "Caution -
expansion ration 50:1" (or something similar) and the other that the now empty
tins said "approximately enough for 20 small craft."

Any comment was drowned out by a sea of yellow brown foam  suddenly pouring out
of the middle of the canoe and the end of the canoe bursting open.  My friend
screamed and leapt at his pride and joy which was knocked to the ground as he
started trying to bale handfuls of this stuff out with his hands. Knocking the
craft over allowed the still liquid and not yet fully expanded foam to flow to
the other end of the canoe where it expanded and shattered that end as well. A
few seconds later and we had a canoe with two exploded ends, a mountain of solid
foam about 4ft high growing out of the middle, and a chemist firmly embedded up
to his armpits in it.

  At this stage he discovered the reaction was exothermic and his hands and arms
were getting very hot ndeed. Running about in small circles in a confined space
while glued to the remains of a fairly large canoe proved ineffective so he
resorted to screaming a bit instead. Fortunately a Kukri was to hand so I
attacked the foam  around his hands with some enthusiasm.  The process was
hindered by the noise he was making and the fact he was trying to escape while
still attached to the canoe.

  Eventually I managed to hack out a lump of foam still  including most of his
arms and hands.  unfortunately my tears of laughter were not helping as they
accelerated the foam setting. Seeking medical help was obviously out of the
question, the embarrassment of having to explain his occupation (Chief Research
Chemist at a major petrochemical organisation) would simply never have been
lived down.

  Several hours and much acrimony later we had removed sufficient foam (and much
hair) to allow him to move again. However he still looked something like a
failed audition for Quasimodo with red burns on his arms and expanded blobs of
foam sticking everywhere. My comment that the scalding simple made the hairs the
foam was sticking to come out easier was not met with the enthusiasm I felt it
deserved.

I forgot to add that in retrospect rather unwisely he had set out to do this
deed in the hallway of his house (the only place he later explained with
sufficient headroom for the canoe - achieved by poking it up the stairwell.)

  Having extricated him we now were faced with the problem of a canoe
construction kit embedded in a still gurgling block of foam which was now
irrevocably bonded to the hall and stairs carpet as well as several banister
rails and quite a lot of wallpaper. At this point his wife and her mother came
back from  shopping......

Oh yes - and he had been wearing the pullover Mum in law had knitted him for his
birthday the week before.  --
	  Peter Parry.   http://www.wppltd.demon.co.uk
<http://www.wppltd.demon.co.uk

	  ---
	  Wilko van den Bergh - Quibus(at)europe(dot)com
	  Eindhoven   -    The Netherlands    -   Europe
	  I think that paddling is about fun and safety,
	  you shouldn't have one without the other...

Hehehehe, I laughed a bit more than decorum calls for here in my cubicle where
I'm suposed to be working my arse off - not scanning mailinglist funnies - but
what a good story, thanks for sharing it.

Being a bona-fide computer geek, I'm deathly afraid of all things chemical or
mechanical (except for alchohol and explosives, that is), so I've kept far away
from expanding foam. To boot, the stuff is expensive and quite heavy, so who
needs it. So far I've used left-over computer packing styrofoam quite happily,
I just break it up with my hands and stuff it into the float spaces as best
possible (no custom-fitting!) and then fill in the left-over spaces between the
chunks with ever-smaller chunks and crumbs of styrofoam, glueing it all down
with a can of Home Despot "Great Stuff" expanding foam (it is closed-cell, as
is the styrofoam). It took an hour's work and sore hands (tearing up styrofoam
is quite a lot of exercise!) to fill up a 2x2x4 space, but considering the
cost... (nearly free). Packing peanuts oughta work fine too, but most of it is
vegetable-starch based these days (colored blue, pink or tan). If you can find
a good amount of the white stuff, try it out (submerge it in a cup of water for
a day or two and then see how well it floats afterwards). Anyway, the only
downside to styrofoam is that gasoline melts it, but that ain't a problem for a
small motorless dinghy, and you should keep your gas tank in it's own-self
draining well for anything bigger.

Fair Winds!

Tom

A thought about stability:

I would agree with those who indicate a raised floor/scuppers will probably
hurt the boat more than it helps make it self rescuing.  Someone (TJ?)
mentioned that the single handed scooner was fit to go offshore.  Now think
about the major difference between the two boats (other than the LS huge rig):
the singlehanded scooner has watertight decking all over with two shallow
wells.  Hence, the boat would probably self-right and sail along with the wells
full of water.  Soo....

Why not simply add more decking to the LS?  You'd have to keep some well space;
but by adding wider side decks, you could probably maitain the fore/aft
length.  Less spray would come aboard at any rate.  If capsized, the amount of
water that could flood the wells would be less.  I always thought most folks
sailed these boats sitting on the side decks anyway, for outside ballast and
because it looks comfortable.  If you go this route, make sure everyone on
board knows what a jibe is if they're sitting up straight on the bigger side
decks.

Boats with floor decking above their waterline are tippy.  My Deep V center
console with a self draining deck will roll you to death trolling around doing
race committee and chase boat work for a bunch of Lasers.  Boston Whalers were
less so because of their hull shape.  I know these examples are power boats,
but the lesson holds


Quoting G Carlson <ghartc@...>:

> I think mine weighs 400 or 450 pounds.  I did seal up the sections noted,
> as I don't think you could rescue it (we couldn't) without going to shore
> to pump it out.  I added the biggest bilge pump and batteries as well.
> Nevertheless, capsizing in winds and waves and getting back underway is a
> big chore, so leave grandma at home when you go "outside".
>
> You can find he waterline using the hulls program, but I would guess it's 3
> or 4 inches when level. Of course, it's highly variable, as the crew will
> generally outweigh the boat, as in most dinghies.
>
> Gregg Carlson
>
>
>
>
> ><snip>
> >BO>In his notes for The Pirate Racer, PCB expresses a preference for tack
> >BO>and tape over chinelog fastening of the bottom to the topsides.'
>
> Both.
>
> >Any of
> >BO>you Light Scooner builders have an opinion one way or the other?
> >
> >I vote for chinelogs.
> >
> >BO>Against the advice of counsel and Payson, this boat will likely be
> >BO>doing a bit of work outside, so I'm starting to give thought to
> >BO>buoyancy and/or self-bailing schemes. I'm already planing to seal up
> >BO>the aft, middle and forward sections. I think that'll go along way to a
> >BO>self rescuing boat. But I'm also thinking of some sort of raised
> >BO>floor/scupper combo to help her shed water from waves/knockdowns. Greg,
> >BO>Tim -- how much does a finished Light Scooner (no engine/fuel) weigh?
> >
> >Dunno, never weighed! Varies depending on timber in any case (I know FT2
> >is heavy).  For self-rescuing, pack that buoyancy in!  Minimum 4 inches
> >under decks. Sealed fore, mid and aft as you're proposing.  Bilge pumps
> >(consider venturi bailers too - I have but haven't got to fitting them).
> >Solid foam under securely attached floorboards. Fill the fore cockpit up
> >with bedding, tents, coolers etc. Set up a spray hood for the fore
> >cockpit.  Additions, Gregg??
> >
> >Tim & FT2
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to tablesaws.
> >http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1701
> >
> >
> >
> >-- Talk to your group with your own voice!
> >-- http://www.egroups.com/VoiceChatPage?listName=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> -- http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>



Robert N. Lundy
St. Petersburg, Fla.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This mail sent through Atlantic.Net Webmail: http://webmail.atlantic.net/

> >I've been reviewing GC's step by step for his Light Scooner, and it
> >appears that the chine logs went on the topsides before the sides
went
> >on the bulkheads.

I did my Sneakeasy that way too (pre-assemble chine logs first), and
for a similar reason to Gregg - it just seemed like the most
straightforward way to go. Bending pre-assembled side panels with 1x2
chine logs around 6:1 length/beam ratios is no problem at all. In my
boatbuilding with kids I've found its much easier for them to nail down
on the floor rather than sideways up on the molds....holds true for
adults too I think!  I bet Gregg with his pneumatic stapler can blast
those logs on in the blink of an eye.

At some point the stresses could work against you I suppose, but I am
getting away with it just fine on kid projects with my 11.5 foot "Wacky
Lassie" double paddle canoes, 24" beam, with chine logs just under 1x2.
That's right about at the bending limit, but it works.

Fritz Funk
My Boat Page: http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
(Bolger Sneakeasy, Boatbuilding with kids, and other projects)

FBBB --

The SHS has a single open cockpit, and a 100 pound daggerboard. I've
already ordered the lead to make a weighted daggerboard for the LS.

I would agree that more floatation on the side is easier, and
probably better in knockdown situation. What I am more concerned with
is full swampage due to breaking waves. One of my thought was to
simply deck the whole damn thing and put some hiking straps  and
handholds on her. Yes that puts some weight up even higher, but
slinging a couple of my fatter, stupider friends over the side.... Of
course when the wind dies, we're paddling with canoe paddles instead
of rowing with oars.

I won't go into the details of where or how I sail, let alone why I'd
want to do it in the LS, but my experiences in lil'winnie tells me
that a fast draining boat suits the way I sail. Not mandatory, but it
would be nice.

The real question is: Why do I want to turn the well thought-out,
professionally designed LS into some manic, surf-launched,
slow-motion disaster? I don't have a good answer except that I loved
the LS from the moment I set eyes on the pic at the instant boat web
site.

And speaking of that 100lbs daggerboard on the SHS, that seems
awfully heavy to cart around. Who thinks I'd ruin the LS by giving
her twin 50lbs. bilge boards?



David Ryan
Minister of Information and Culture
Crumbling Empire Productions
(212) 247-0296

I've uploaded a picture of the treatment I described for sticking decks on a
Windsprint to the Vault:

http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/windsprint_gunwales.jpg

Hope this help anyone who is interested in visualizing what I was describing.

JB

Anyone out there with any experience of the singlehader schooner?
Really single handed?  How does it compare to the light schooner, etc.

"robert n. lundy" <rlund-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=993

> I've thought about using the hull forms as the bulkheads.  What I really
want
> to do is hide the buttstraps, so there is likely going to be some cut &
fit.
> Also, I've toyed with the idea if building my mast partner differently,
since
> I'll have that deck to fastern things to.
>
> Once you start to modify any of these seemingly small details, you really
slow
> yourself down.  Part of it is the thinking through process, the other is
the
> lack of a scaled plan for an idiot like me to follow.  Just going to a 1/2
inch
> bottom with the "square scarf" added significant time to my building
process.
> If I didn't have my angle grinder to get the right bevel on that 1/2"
bottom
> after attaching it and routing square, I'd still be sanding.
>

I think you answered yourself here. If you move the bulkheads to cover up
the butt straps you are adding a lot of work. It's not worth it, IMHO. Also,
if you decide to redo the partner be aware it needs to be plenty strong
since it literally holds the mast up off the bottom as well as transferring
all the heeling and propulsive forces to the hull. The bottom isn't really
strong enough to support the weight of the mast by itself. Butt straps don't
look that bad, anyway.


> BTW, what did you decide to build, the IMB?

Yep. I've always been a fan of Bolger's Birdwatcher to the point of
springing for the plans. It's really too big a project for me at the moment
so it waits in the file cabinet for the right place and time. PCB has
designed a number of boats like BW, but nearly all are too big or too
complex for me at the moment. I really wanted a smaller version so I could
sail with my small kids safely corralled inside the cabin. Fortunately Jim
Michalak has drawn a number of boats in a size and complexity range
neglected by Bolger, including IMB.  I also happen to think it is a rather
pretty (if unusual) design. I already own Jim's prettiest design, Sportdory,
so it will be nice to have his second prettiest in the fleet as well. ;-)

My boat is tentatively named "Pocket Watch" and will be started as soon as
we get through the holidays.

Peace,

John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
jmbell@...
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com

I put fore, aft and side decks on my Windsprint. The decks are flush to the
edge of the 'wales.

I talked about my capsize concerns (not being able to right the boat or bail
it out or even get back in) so I have solved the flotation problem I think. I
put a large bouncy ball (40" diameter) under the decks fore and aft. Then I
pumped them with air. Plenty of folatation I'll wager.

I have also taken a stab at trying a new sail plan. I built a polytarp lateen
sail. Fourteen feet on the yard and boom angled the same as a Sunfish sail. I
put lots of draft in the sail, looks to have beautiful shape. Will sail it
soon, let you know how it works (if it works).

Mike Masten

Hello fellow boat builders,

I am allergic to epoxy. Just being in the same garage with the stuff makes my
face turn red and puffy. So I have used mostly weldwood, but I'm curious
about the "new" glues on the market. The PL ???? and 3M5200?

I have some work to do on my Windsprint mast partners. Specifically, I need
to glue down to the hull bottom a customized block of wood on short legs with
a hole in it for the mast. What glue would you recommend?

Mike Masten

Epoxy would be the best. But it is not the only way to skin a cat.

Given your condition, dogging the thing down with a handful of wood screws
would be the easiest and lowest health-risk alternative. I'd probably bed it
in 5200 (available at Home Depot!) just to be safe. Plug and fair the screw
heads with Bondo.

John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
jmbell@...
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com


----- Original Message -----
From: <Teakdeck@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 11:20 PM
Subject: [bolger] Glue


> Hello fellow boat builders,
>
> I am allergic to epoxy. Just being in the same garage with the stuff makes
my
> face turn red and puffy. So I have used mostly weldwood, but I'm curious
> about the "new" glues on the market. The PL ???? and 3M5200?
>
> I have some work to do on my Windsprint mast partners. Specifically, I
need
> to glue down to the hull bottom a customized block of wood on short legs
with
> a hole in it for the mast. What glue would you recommend?
>
> Mike Masten
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Meet your Match! CLICK HERE to go to One & Only Internet Personals
> http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1705
>
>
> -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
> -- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>

Hi everybody! My 11 sheets of 3/8" marine okoume plywood will be
delivered tomorrow! I decided to use solid mahogany for framing, it
costs less than douglas fir here. Time to start making sawdust at last.
Stay tuned with the Micro page, I'll update as soon as anything
signifcant happens. Best, Pippo

Hi Mike:

I've had good luck with the PL polyurethane on a variety of projects.
There's some of it here and there in the windsprint, although I used
epoxy for the big jobs.  I've also used Weldwood for things like gluing
up the two layers of the daggerboard.  Both work really well, but
remember, neither are gap filling so the fit of the wood pieces must be
good.  PL is really cheap and you don't have to mix it up!

Robert Lundy

teakdec-@... wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1004
> Hello fellow boat builders,
>
> I am allergic to epoxy. Just being in the same garage with the stuff
makes my
> face turn red and puffy. So I have used mostly weldwood, but I'm
curious
> about the "new" glues on the market. The PL ???? and 3M5200?
>
> I have some work to do on my Windsprint mast partners. Specifically,
I need
> to glue down to the hull bottom a customized block of wood on short
legs with
> a hole in it for the mast. What glue would you recommend?
>
> Mike Masten

Dear Mike,
   I am sensitive to most chemicals. Haven't gotten alergic to epoxy yet
but developed a skin rash from using the PL Foaming Glue. My Gypsy mast
was made with Weldwood and is nine years old and going strong. The
marine caulk type products are pretty oderiforous in my experience and
based on my experience with the Polyurethane glue I am staying away
from them. I am going to use Titebond II, a weatherproof carpenters
glue and plenty of screws on the gunwales of the Folding Schooner.
Epoxy on the chines.  Weldwood is probably fine for a boat that doesn't
live in the water.  There is an outfit in WoodenBoat that advertises
alternatives to epoxy but I think you have to buy in relatively large
quantities. Resourcinol is also an option.  Good Luck.

Leander




teakdec-@... wrote:


original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1004
> Hello fellow boat builders,
>
> I am allergic to epoxy. Just being in the same garage with the stuff
makes my
> face turn red and puffy. So I have used mostly weldwood, but I'm
curious
> about the "new" glues on the market. The PL ???? and 3M5200?
>
> I have some work to do on my Windsprint mast partners. Specifically,
I need
> to glue down to the hull bottom a customized block of wood on short
legs with
> a hole in it for the mast. What glue would you recommend?
>
> Mike Masten

5200 is odorless and seemingly benign, very tough, though slow-curing
(there is a fast cure also).

GHC

At 06:43 AM 11/30/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>Dear Mike,
>  I am sensitive to most chemicals. Haven't gotten alergic to epoxy yet
>but developed a skin rash from using the PL Foaming Glue. My Gypsy mast
>was made with Weldwood and is nine years old and going strong. The
>marine caulk type products are pretty oderiforous in my experience and
>based on my experience with the Polyurethane glue I am staying away
>from them. I am going to use Titebond II, a weatherproof carpenters
>glue and plenty of screws on the gunwales of the Folding Schooner.
>Epoxy on the chines.  Weldwood is probably fine for a boat that doesn't
>live in the water.  There is an outfit in WoodenBoat that advertises
>alternatives to epoxy but I think you have to buy in relatively large
>quantities. Resourcinol is also an option.  Good Luck.
>
>Leander
>
>
>
>
>teakdec-@... wrote:
>
>
>original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1004
>> Hello fellow boat builders,
>>
>> I am allergic to epoxy. Just being in the same garage with the stuff
>makes my
>> face turn red and puffy. So I have used mostly weldwood, but I'm
>curious
>> about the "new" glues on the market. The PL ???? and 3M5200?
>>
>> I have some work to do on my Windsprint mast partners. Specifically,
>I need
>> to glue down to the hull bottom a customized block of wood on short
>legs with
>> a hole in it for the mast. What glue would you recommend?
>>
>> Mike Masten
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>eGroups.com Home: http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/
>http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>

I was going to put a message here inquiring about
Oldshoe builders, when it occurred to me that someone
might have already done so. kf4cal-@... had,
but, unfortunately, my emails to him all bounce
(550 MAILBOX NOT FOUND).

I received the plans from CSB a week ago. Heretofore,
I have mainly been converting the measurements to metric
and trying to figure out where everything is supposed to
go and what the sailing terms all mean (there are a lot
of them, and I haven't really sailed, ever).

If anyone else is building the Oldshoe, please? I have
a LOT of questions...


Cheers,
Sakari Aaltonen

For anyone following my progress, I've post the latest three pics showing
the boat cart, and hull glassing.

http://members.xoom.com/flboatyard

Netscape Users:  Give it a try, but I've maybe found a bug in Word 2000 and
'97 that causes Netscape to have a problems with Web pages built with Word.
Working on a fix.  IE 4 and 5 should work fine.

Robert & Amy Lundy
rnlundy@... <mailto:rnlundy@...>
rlundy@... <mailto:rlundy@...>
727-526-9329
727-528-8104 FAX

In a message dated 11/30/99 5:04:08 PM Central Standard Time, saaltone@...
writes:

<< kf4cal-@... >>

<< KF4call@... >>

Try that one...Larry (soon to be the proud owner of John's Windsprint) (this
weekend)

In a message dated 11/30/99 5:29:22 PM Central Standard Time,
rlundy@... writes:

<<  IE 4 and 5 should work fine. >>
sorry no photos i use AOL 5.0 with i/e 5-128 bit
Larry

BO>If anyone else is building the Oldshoe, please? I have
BO>a LOT of questions...

Not building but sailing + photos on
thtp://www.ace.net.au/schooner/oldshoe.htm
and use Craig O'Donnells Bolger honour roll for those who have built at
http://wwww.friend.ly.net/~dadadata

BO>Netscape Users:  Give it a try, but I've maybe found a bug in Word 2000 and
BO>'97 that causes Netscape to have a problems with Web pages built with Word.
BO>Working on a fix.  IE 4 and 5 should work fine.

BO>Robert & Amy Lundy

The bug in Word2000 and Word97 is Word2000 and Word97 aka Microsoft.
Their internet assistant sucks. I still use it, being a masochist, BUT
convert to HTML for cleaning up messes and SAVE while still viewing in
HTML

Tim & FLying Tadpole

I also just received plans for Oldshoe and bought some wood to start the
frames.  I also have the plans for Micro and keep debating whether to go
with the bigger boat instead.  Feel free to send questions.  I've also
built a Windsprint, Tortoise and Nymph and am glad to answer any
questions.





saaltone@... wrote:
>
> I was going to put a message here inquiring about
> Oldshoe builders, when it occurred to me that someone
> might have already done so. kf4cal-@... had,
> but, unfortunately, my emails to him all bounce
> (550 MAILBOX NOT FOUND).
>
> I received the plans from CSB a week ago. Heretofore,
> I have mainly been converting the measurements to metric
> and trying to figure out where everything is supposed to
> go and what the sailing terms all mean (there are a lot
> of them, and I haven't really sailed, ever).
>
> If anyone else is building the Oldshoe, please? I have
> a LOT of questions...
>
> Cheers,
> Sakari Aaltonen
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> CNET Shopper
> Get smart before you buy
> http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1882
>
> -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
> -- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=bolger&m=1

To the group:

Brad Raby sent me his latest Topaz pictures, and they are posted here:
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg/articles/topaz/latest.htm

For what it is worth, Brad tells me that Phil Bolger himself has been
keeping up on the progress via this page.

Chuck

Sakan,
      There about 7 of us in the Oldshoe Builders group.  Will send
information a little later this evening, as right now I am running out to do
an errand.  I am pleased to hera of your interest.  Best regards, Warren
KF4call@...

KF4call@... wrote:
>
> Sakan,
>      There about 7 of us in the Oldshoe Builders group.  Will send
> information a little later this evening, as right now I am running out to do
> an errand.  I am pleased to hera of your interest.  Best regards, Warren
> KF4call@...

Warren, please count me in as I have purchesed the plans and some of the
initial plywood and fir for this project.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Buy 1 Get 2 FREE at FamilyWonder.com!  Choose from over 50,000 videos
> and CDs! FamilyWonder.com is dedicated to helping parents and friends
> make the best possible purchase decisions for children.
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For Chuck Leinweber in particular:

I was browsing the (tiny) library near me, and to my surprise they had
"30-Odd Boats".  I read the full piece on Sharpshooter, and looked at the
details.  How do you build this boat without the raised sole, which would
appear to be necessary in order to have any accomodations?  I guess you
would put in some forms to set the shape, then glass in ribs every 18 inches
or so.  It looks like a "non-starter" as a cruiser as designed, being
subject to nasty topheaviness with everything perched up on the raised sole.

Have you started working this out yet?

Don Hodges
Lynn Haven, FL (where the temperature finally stalled the epoxy today...)

Don:

The raised sole in this boat reminds me of the discussion here about
modifying the Light Schooner.  In this case it raised the Cg to the point
that the boat was unworkable.  I am not sure that that would happen to the
LS but it could.  What I am going to do is build the sharpshooter hull
(three sheet bottom with two foot flared sides.  It will have a small cuddy
forward just after a small free flooding well.  Next a four foot high pilot
house.  This is what the Tennessee had and works OK, but I will add a large
hatch for sun, air, and standing up.  A small cockpit will bring up the
rear.  For me this makes an economical all weather cruiser for two friendly
people that can be pulled by a four banger pickup (my basic criteria).

To make it strong enough, I guess I would use 3/4" ply on the bottom, and
3/8" on the sides.  That should make it pretty bulletproof, and the extra
weight down low can only improve the stability.

Chuck

> For Chuck Leinweber in particular:
>
> I was browsing the (tiny) library near me, and to my surprise they had
> "30-Odd Boats".  I read the full piece on Sharpshooter, and looked at the
> details.  How do you build this boat without the raised sole, which would
> appear to be necessary in order to have any accomodations?  I guess you
> would put in some forms to set the shape, then glass in ribs every 18
inches
> or so.  It looks like a "non-starter" as a cruiser as designed, being
> subject to nasty topheaviness with everything perched up on the raised
sole.
>
> Have you started working this out yet?
>
> Don Hodges
> Lynn Haven, FL (where the temperature finally stalled the epoxy today...)
>
>
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BO>Don:

BO>The raised sole in this boat reminds me of the discussion here about
BO>modifying the Light Schooner.  In this case it raised the Cg to the point
BO>that the boat was unworkable.

BO>> For Chuck Leinweber in particular:
BO>>
BO>> I was browsing the (tiny) library near me, and to my surprise they had
BO>> "30-Odd Boats".  I read the full piece on Sharpshooter, and looked at the
BO>> details.  How do you build this boat without the raised sole, which would
BO>> appear to be necessary in order to have any accomodations?

Might have misunderstood, but my reading of Bolger's Sharpshooter essay
was that it wasn't so much the physical boat (and its cog) which went up
a wattle, but that the original design encouraged all aboard to =stand
up= which raised the overall cog to unsafe heights.

This surely would remain a danger in any re-addition of superstructure
onto a sharpshooter hull?

Tim & Flying Tadpole

Sounds like an interesting boat.  Are there any pictures of
Sharpshooters on the Net?



   Sean Rooney
   sean@...