Whilst riding out the gale in my kitchen and contemplating the space versus
which boat scenario I happened to be reading Philip's 'Boats with an Open Mind'.

Now here is the conundrum...what is the boat in the top left illustration on the
cover? I have scoured the book but can't seem to find it. Am I missing
something?

The note inside the cover lists 'Bright Thread', 'Microtrawler' and 'Pirate
Racer' but I can't see  'Pirate Racer' on the cover of my copy. It looks like
'Fisherman's Launch' in the second photo and 'Birdwatcher' at the bottom.

Over to you experts!

I live in Iquitos, Peru a few miles from the Amazon River and I´m interested in
building a Long Micro.

The plywood available here is not suitable for boat construction. It separate
easily and it is expensive.

That leaves lapstrake or a steel hull. Wood and steel are both cheap.

What would the increased weight do to the performance of a Micro or Long Micro?

Does anyone know of any Micros or Long Micros that have been built with a
lapstrake or steel hull?

Thanks

tom

I've seen photos where people added a vestibule to their shop  using
2x4's and clear poly film, and had the nose of the boat a-building
sticking out the door.

Patrick

stephenwarrick@... wrote:
> I'm just measuring out the workshop (which is full of junk) to see if I really
can build a Long Micro in it. It's not so much the width but the length, which
might demand a strict diet if I am to squeeze past the ends of the boat. The
other challenge is the shop stove which might be too close to the construction
if it is the long version...hmmm I can smell the toasting plywood already!
>
> If it is practical then I'll order the LM plans from PB&F (thanks Susanne).
Still, might end up ordering the original though if it is all a tight fit.
>
> Watch this thread for the next thrilling episode...!
> Stephen
>
> PS
> It just occurred to me that I could try building corner to corner across the
shop...hmm...now let me see...

Stephen,
A few random, and hopefully helpful, thoughts as you plan:
I built my LM on a ladder-frame/strong back thing-a-majig. I put caster wheels
on the bottom so I could roll the boat around and occasionally take my LM
outside for some sunshine.  I found the rolling ladder frame made moving the
boat much easier. Build the frame low to the ground to conserve overhead space.
The long parts of the LM are:
1. the mast (approx. 30 feet long). I ended up laminating mine in my house,
between the living room and kitchen.  I was single at the time and laminating my
mast in my house ensured that I remained single.
2. Upright, the hull with the keel attached makes the LM a little over
six feet tall (a few cm's over 2 meters on my rolling strongback). Make sure
your shop space and the entry door can accommodate this height.  Once you attach
the bow tabernacle, the height increases well over 6 feet.  In fact, I could not
install my bow tabernacle in my garage, but fortunately moved into a much larger
shop to complete construction. Had I not moved, I would have resorted to pulling
the bow out the garage door and building a temporary tent over the bow to
continue working.
3. My first garage was approx. 22 feet long.  I usually kept the big door open,
so I could walk down each side of the hull, but the transom was very close to
the back wall.  It worked out. Where there is a will there's a way.

Bill, in Texas
Long Micro Pugnacious

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "stephenwarrick@..." <s.warrick@...> wrote:
>
> I'm just measuring out the workshop (which is full of junk) to see if I really
can build a Long Micro in it. It's not so much the width but the length, which
might demand a strict diet if I am to squeeze past the ends of the boat. The
other challenge is the shop stove which might be too close to the construction
if it is the long version...hmmm I can smell the toasting plywood already!
>
> If it is practical then I'll order the LM plans from PB&F (thanks Susanne).
Still, might end up ordering the original though if it is all a tight fit.
>
> Watch this thread for the next thrilling episode...!
> Stephen
>
> PS
> It just occurred to me that I could try building corner to corner across the
shop...hmm...now let me see...
>

> boat. I really do know someone who built a boat in a garage and had to
> take out part of the wall the garage door was in, to get the boat out

To build my 31 foot Topaz in my 20 foot garage I removed the exterior
wall at the rear of the garage, and tented.  (Possible here in
California, where it rarely freezes and only occasionally rains.
Replacing that stud & plaster wall when I am done will be a small
task, relative to the 1,001 other distinct tasks that comprise the
making of a boat.

prairiedog2332 wrote:
>
> Great write-up and build article here:
>
> http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm
> <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm>
>
> Shows an alternate keel construction from the plans though.
>
> Nels
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Martin Roberts <martin.me.roberts@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Susanne,
> > I was going to allow Stephen to view my plans but I would not allow
> > him to build from them as they have ineffect been used and license is
> > now expired.
> >
> > Hope you are feeling more yourself.
> >
> > Martin
> >
>
>
If you have a garage door build a tent over it and let the bow or stern
stick through. If you build corner to corner make sure you can swing it
around to get it out the door remember you have to measure the boat from
one corner of the transom to the bow. Not down the center line of the
boat. I really do know someone who built a boat in a garage and had to
take out part of the wall the garage door was in, to get the boat out
:-[ ME!

Doug

Great write-up and build article here:

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm

Shows an alternate keel construction from the plans though.

Nels

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Martin Roberts <martin.me.roberts@...> wrote:
>
> Susanne,
> I was going to allow Stephen to view my plans but I would not allow
> him to build from them as they have ineffect been used and license is
> now expired.
>
> Hope you are feeling more yourself.
>
> Martin
>

I'm just measuring out the workshop (which is full of junk) to see if I really
can build a Long Micro in it. It's not so much the width but the length, which
might demand a strict diet if I am to squeeze past the ends of the boat. The
other challenge is the shop stove which might be too close to the construction
if it is the long version...hmmm I can smell the toasting plywood already!

If it is practical then I'll order the LM plans from PB&F (thanks Susanne).
Still, might end up ordering the original though if it is all a tight fit.

Watch this thread for the next thrilling episode...!
Stephen

PS
It just occurred to me that I could try building corner to corner across the
shop...hmm...now let me see...

----- Original Message -----

From: Martin Roberts

To: bolger@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 10:04 AM

Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Micro/Long Micro in the UK?

 

Susanne,
I was going to allow Stephen to view my plans but I would not allow
him to build from them as they have ineffect been used and license is
now expired.

Hope you are feeling more yourself.

Martin

Susanne,
   I was going to allow Stephen to view my plans but I would not allow
him to build from them as they have ineffect been used and license is
now expired.

   Hope you are feeling more yourself.

Martin

----- Original Message -----

From: stephenwarrick@...

To: bolger@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 7:29 PM

Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro/Long Micro in the UK?

 

Hi Bill, Martin has dropped me a line via email but he didn't construct his Micro himself. I suppose I was really trying to get first hand info on the build process and possibly to find a set of plans already in the UK. I have seen the videos of Martin's boat on YouTube and I was very impressed.

He has very kindly offered to let me have a closer look in the future.
This should enable me get a better feel for the scale of it and to decide if I am going to attempt the long version or stick with the original. So does anyone have a set of plans already in the UK?

This prompts me to also ask about the debate on where plans for the Micro/Long Micro should be sourced?...from PB&F or CSB? What is the procedure and who has the most up to date and best quality versions?

A lot of questions I know but I'm suddenly eager to start as the recession has provided me with the blessing of lots of free time (if you get my drift...!) and I'm not going to waste it.
Stephen

Thanks Tom.  I'll give it a try.

Reed

Hi Bill, Martin has dropped me a line via email but he didn't construct his
Micro himself. I suppose I was really trying to get first hand info on the build
process and possibly to find a set of plans already in the UK. I have seen the
videos of Martin's boat on YouTube and I was very impressed.

He has very kindly offered to let me have a closer look in the future.
This should enable me get a better feel for the scale of it and to decide if I
am going to attempt the long version or stick with the original. So does anyone
have a set of plans already in the UK?

This prompts me to also ask about the debate on where plans for the Micro/Long
Micro should be sourced?...from PB&F or CSB? What is the procedure and who has
the most up to date and best quality versions?

A lot of questions I know but I'm suddenly eager to start as the recession has
provided me with the blessing of lots of free time (if you get my drift...!) and
I'm not going to waste it.
Stephen

prairiedog2332 wrote:
>
> Hi Simon,
>
> I think I "get the picture". You will be probably coasting from
> Coloundra down to Diamond Head to start off with and maybe into Pelican
> Waters and Bells Creek? Thereby avoiding the tide rips for the most part
> but requiring "beachability" in a hull that is quite seaworthy and
> sleeps four.
>
> I see the NIS26 draws 30 cm (12") with the board up.
>
> http://www.nisboats.com/mainpages/nis26.html
> <http://www.nisboats.com/mainpages/nis26.html>
>
> This is the same as the Chebacco, whereas the Beachcat, probably a bit
> less. I am pretty sure Caroline and Caprice draw less than that, as does
> the Martha Jane.
>
> The reason I say that is that Michalak drew plans for a design (Called
> Eisbox) with the same inboard rudder set-up as the two Bolger designs
> and stated, "I don't care for the rudder set-up for two reasons: It
> effectively doubles the draft and I prefer a deep (kick-up) rudder for
> steering. (Compared to the shallow rudder with end plate.) The Eisbox
> man was sure the draft would not prevent him from dry shoe beaching in
> his area, time will tell." However the boat was never built and Jim
> withdrew the plans from his plans pages. The big advantage of the
> inboard rudder is the motor location, right on the centerline, nice to
> have if you have to motor sail.
>
> Both Micro and Long Micro are quite beachable as well since the forward
> section of the keel is very shallow, althought the stern draws about 40
> cm. So best with a beach that has some slope to it.
>
> Two other Michalak designs, based on the Micro, but without a keel
> protruding below are Picara and Blobster, both with the aft deck large
> enough to sleep two in the cockpit.
>
> I would choose a design with a cat yawl rig, as the mizzen is a great
> advantage over a cat rig, for a beginning sailor.
>
> Nels
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "simonfbroad" <simonfbroad@...> wrote:
> >
> > Yes, Pummicestone Passage is north of Deception Bay, it's the water
> between the mainlaind and Bribie Island. We are at the very northern
> end, not far from Golden Beach.
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.67/2506 - Release Date: 11/16/09
07:43:00
>
>
The micro may be beachable in tidal waters but I don't think the long
micro is. After all in tidal waters when the tide goes out and fairly
heavy boat sets on the beach you might say it's beachable.The thing is
can you drag it back off the beach before the tide comes back in. I have
a 20ft Elver and it sure as heck is not beachable from any practical
stand point in tidal waters. A lake is another thing. With my Elver it's
not a problem to step off in a foot of water and wade ashore but in most
locations it better not be at high tide. You will find yourself grunting
and groaning as you try to push a 900 lb boat back into the water.
Doug

I have received a couple of emails of interest off-post so thought I
would share this further idea.

It's about installing a couple of thole pins or an oarlock on the stern
and using a paddle to steer with. Obviously a paddle shaft would be too
short, so would need an extension stick of some kind and secured on an
angle so the paddle is well below the surface of the water and the stick
still more or less horizontal.

DW offers a sculling connector for an oar called a Scullmatix.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/gear/scullmatix/index.htm

But it is designed to be used when standing which is not so good in a
canoe.  So maybe something like it with more of an angle between the two
holders. The paddle could be clamped in with the blade vertical for
steering or horizontal for sculling.

DW also offers some other rowing goodies at nice prices.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/index.htm


Nels

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "prairiedog2332" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> I think I will first try a tiller extension stick since it is the
> simpler of the other two options, and then maybe add the Coquina
> steering line option if it seems preferable.
>
> I also have some old plans for the "Common Sense Pirogue" which has a
> the same steering set-up (yoke on the rudder and "steering ropes").
But
> they just terminate in small arrows pointing forward with no further
> details shown. It did not come with a building key.  It is an
> interesting design as it has detachable outriggers for rowing with 7'
> oars as well as a nice little sailing rig option, as well as side
decks
> for hiking and can be paddled like a kayak.
>
>
> Nels
>

Thanks guys,

I think I will first try a tiller extension stick since it is the
simpler of the other two options, and then maybe add the Coquina
steering line option if it seems preferable.

I also have some old plans for the "Common Sense Pirogue" which has a
the same steering set-up (yoke on the rudder and "steering ropes"). But
they just terminate in small arrows pointing forward with no further
details shown. It did not come with a building key.  It is an
interesting design as it has detachable outriggers for rowing with 7'
oars as well as a nice little sailing rig option, as well as side decks
for hiking and can be paddled like a kayak.


Nels


--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Kitchen <akitchen@...> wrote:
>
> One solution is, of course, to hook the lines up to foot pedals. But,
> one I've copied from Herreshoff's Coquina is to have one continuous
> line running from one side of the yoke (say starboard), along the
> starboard gunwale to a small block attached, say, to a bulkhead
> forward or to the gunwale itself, across to the port side, through
> another
> block and back to the port yoke.  This continuous line can be pulled
> back and forth with one hand to steer.  The great advantage is that
you
> can steer equally well from anywhere in the boat.  It may help to
> add some fairleads or run the lines under the deck to avoid their
> getting tangled with other lines.
>
> Andrew
> ______________________________________________________
> Andrew Kitchen
> 155 Thistledown Drive
> Rochester, NY 14617-3048
>
> > The item that puzzles me is the steering set up. It appears there
are
> > two steering lines running from a yoke on the rudder, terminating
with
> > a toggle on each end? My question is - how does one use these
toggles
> > and still have a hand free for the main sheet?
>

Hi Simon,

I think I "get the picture". You will be probably coasting from
Coloundra down to Diamond Head to start off with and maybe into Pelican
Waters and Bells Creek? Thereby avoiding the tide rips for the most part
but requiring "beachability" in a hull that is quite seaworthy and
sleeps four.

I see the NIS26 draws 30 cm (12") with the board up.

http://www.nisboats.com/mainpages/nis26.html

This is the same as the Chebacco, whereas the Beachcat, probably a bit
less. I am pretty sure Caroline and Caprice draw less than that, as does
the Martha Jane.

The reason I say that is that Michalak drew plans for a design (Called
Eisbox) with the same inboard rudder set-up as the two Bolger designs
and stated, "I don't care for the rudder set-up for two reasons: It
effectively doubles the draft and I prefer a deep (kick-up) rudder for
steering. (Compared to the shallow rudder with end plate.) The Eisbox
man was sure the draft would not prevent him from dry shoe beaching in
his area, time will tell." However the boat was never built and Jim
withdrew the plans from his plans pages. The big advantage of the
inboard rudder is the motor location, right on the centerline, nice to
have if you have to motor sail.

Both Micro and Long Micro are quite beachable as well since the forward
section  of the keel is very shallow, althought the stern draws about 40
cm. So best with a beach that has some slope to it.

Two other Michalak designs, based on the Micro, but without a keel
protruding below are Picara and Blobster, both with the aft deck large
enough to sleep two in the cockpit.

I would choose a design with a cat yawl rig, as the mizzen is a great
advantage over a cat rig, for a beginning sailor.

Nels


--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "simonfbroad" <simonfbroad@...> wrote:
>
> Yes, Pummicestone Passage is north of Deception Bay, it's the water
between the mainlaind and Bribie Island. We are at the very northern
end, not far from Golden Beach.
>

On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 10:28 PM, simonfbroad <simonfbroad@...> wrote:
>
> One of the reasons I was looking to a 17ft hull was to get enough space for a
6ft person to lay down in both the cabin and the cockpit.


PCB has provided room for a 6 foot person or two to lie down in both
the cabin and the cockpit of a 15'4" Bolger Micro.  This is achieved
by having the feet of the bed in the cabin extend underneath the
seating surface of the cockpit.

see here, the grid spacing is 12"

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3121/2649810877_0f6ff41f86.jpg

Stephen,
Welcome aboard. Martin posted here in reference to Dylan Winter's video of his
sssswwwweeeeeeettttt Bolger Micro.
Post number 61553 (October 04, 2009).  You should be able to dig his email out
of the post.  Or drop an email to Dylan Winter (his email appears at the end of
his YouTube videos) and ask for Martin's contact info.

The only other Micro from the UK I know of was never finished (that I tell). It
was under construction by John Morrice, and he had a webisite.  The build moved
forward in fits and starts during 1999 and 2000, and then the webpage lay
dormant for years and is now gone.
http://www.pentode.demon.co.uk/
I do not know what happened to the boat. Anyone?

The bottom line is that the UK needs more Micros (and maybe even a Long Micro). 
Get building and share updates and pictures!

Bill, in Texas
Long Micro Pugnacious

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "stephenwarrick@..." <s.warrick@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I'm new here and initially I would like to know if anyone on the
forum in the UK has built a Micro of any description? I'm planning to start one
soon and would like to talk to anyone in the UK who has already completed one. I
believe Martin Roberts has one on the Deben, is he active on the forum? Thanks
for any help. Stephen
>

J

One of the reasons I was looking to a 17ft hull was to get enough space for a
6ft person to lay down in both the cabin and the cockpit.

The reason for upsizing a Catfish as opposed to anything that is already that
size is that the hull constructions appears quite straight forward (as opposed
to something like the Cape Code cats at that size) and economical of materials -
and as this would actually be boat number two, maybe I should be learning to
scarf?

The reasons for adding a cabin are mainly for a weekend away, but also somewhere
(indoors) for a porta-potti on those family days out.

Still not sure how people think Catfish would perform up and down the coast,
maybe it is not the right design for that ? Maybe you can't have a boat that is
a good coastal cruiser and shallow water day boat ?

Performance is not something I am concerned about, one of the things about
Catfish is that it is reasonably beamy compared to other designs I was looking
at. Unless I go for the Fennick Williams or Charles Witholz Cape Code catboats,
or at the other end of the scale Jim Michelak's FatCat2 or Picara.

Anyway
Thanks for the advice
Not settled on one design yet but enjoy looking at options, even if it does get
a bit frustrating at times.

Cheers
Simon.




--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Jay Bazuzi <jay@...> wrote:
>
> I think it's great that you're starting with a small boat.  I was going to
> suggest a Teal, but you've got something similar coming along.
>
> Small boats are great for learning to sail. They're easy to launch and easy
> to right after a capsize. But most of all, you feel everything happening in
> the boat. Every gust & lull, every swell.  You keep tiller in one hand and
> sheet in the other, and you can learn to keep the boat in good
> trim continuously.
>
> I really like the shallow draft of my Bobcat.  (I do which it could carry
> more people, since we're a family of 5. I also wish it was lighter, so it
> was easier to remove from the trailer back home.  Those two wishes conflict,
> oh well.)  Anyway, with centerboard up and the boat empty, it draws a couple
> inches - great for beaching.  Loaded the draft is still really small, so I
> can go anywhere with it.  More fun that way, for sure.
>
> In general, smaller boats are easier to launch, easier to maintain, hold
> more people, and are more fun. Decks & cabins compete with cockpits for
> available space.
>
> Where I live, regulations get way more complicated as soon as overall length
> passes 16'.  If you can build 15'9" you may be able to dodge a lot of that.
>  17' seems like only a small gain (1') for a lot more headache.  You can
> always choose a beamy design, often gaining stability & cockpit room at a
> small cost of performance.  But, at least for me, performance of a boat is
> not near the top of my list.
>
> Be sure to browse http://bolger.wikidot.com/bolger:smallsailboats
>
> Also, I'd recommend reading some of Bolger's books. I learned a lot doing
> that.  Some are out of print, but my wonderful library had many.
>
> -J
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 4:00 PM, simonfbroad <simonfbroad@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Nels
> >
> > Hi, thanks for the response.
> > I'm actually building David Beede's "Summer Breeze" as a very very first
> > boat, just to 'get my hands dirty' as it were, but I expect to outgrow it
> > very quickly (and I'm making all those first-timer mistakes on it).
> >
> > I have 4 children and 3 grandchildren, so permutations for a day out will
> > be quite varied.
> > We live in S.E. Queensland and quiet waters like Pummicestone Passage are
> > right on our door step, hence the desire for a shallow draft, in places I'm
> > told there is only 8 inches of water.
> > I understand that the wide beam, in calm waters, gives a good initial
> > stability and this might be good for some of my passengers, especially as we
> > share the water with jetski's and tinnies.
> >
> > I also would like for the wife and I to be able to go up or down the coast
> > for a weekend now and then - not sure if that means another boat or if the
> > Beachcat would be suitable for both uses.
> >
> > I have read Jim Michelak's book, and the Ultrasimple Boatbuilding one by
> > Gavin Atkins. The Instant Boats book is on my list to read, haven't gotten
> > round to it yet.
> >
> > Still got an Open Mind about it all though - (hey, that's another book on
> > my must read list :o)
> >
> > Cheers
> > Simon
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger%40yahoogroups.com>, "prairiedog2332"
> > <arvent@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Simon,
> > >
> > > Lengthening a hull like Catfish Beachcruiser could be a real challenge,
> > > because the hull was designed for standard 4 X 8 plywood and it would
> > > take a lot added work with scarfing and fitting in my opinion to
> > > lengthen it.
> > >
> > > If you are just starting out in boat building I would suggest Windsprint
> > > along with the book "Build the new Instant Boats." Depending of course
> > > on how large your family is and what kind of area and conditions you
> > > intend to sail in.
> > >
> > > The next step up from the Catfish is Chebacco and it comes in about six
> > > different configurations, one with a keel like Catfish and a glassed in
> > > house
> > >
> > > Build a scale model first no matter what you do and have a "figure" the
> > > same scale to judge the space available in the hull.
> > >
> > > Nels
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger%40yahoogroups.com>, "simonfbroad"
> > <simonfbroad@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi
> > > >
> > > > I was thinking about building the Beachcat to learn to sail in.
> > > >
> > > > In order to increase it's long term usability I would like to make it
> > > a little larger so I can get all the family, picnic basket, and the dog
> > > on board.
> > > >
> > > > Would it be easy (or advisable) to upscale this boat to around 17ft,
> > > and maybe add a small cabin?
> > > >
> > > > I looked at things like the Charles Witholz and Fennick Williams
> > > designs, very nice, I like the Cape Code look, but they appear much more
> > > complex to build and I hear nothing but good about the Bolger designs
> > > and plan sets.
> > > >
> > > > Any comments and opinions gratefully received.
> > > >
> > > > Simon
> > > > ------
> > > > Wannabe Sailor
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

Yes, Pummicestone Passage is north of Deception Bay, it's the water between the
mainlaind and Bribie Island. We are at the very northern end, not far from
Golden Beach.

Not sure what the winds are like, I suspect the island blocks most of it, though
I do know there is a juy in Brisbane who sails his 26ft NIS up the passage
(actually I think he motors most of the way).

As to the tide, well it really rips through the narrow parts, so fast you cannot
swim the hundred meters from Caloundra to Bribie without a high probability of
being swept out to sea. But the 'lagoon' at the north end seems to attract a few
sailors, wind & kite surfers, and the like.

I did look at Jim's Caroline, but I notice he rarely quotes the draft of any of
his designs so I wasn't sure how suitable it would be for the passage. The main
attraction of his designs is the simplicity, and amount of boat you appear to
get out of a small number of sheets of ply. I started looking at the AF3 and was
very close to ordering plans for FatCat2 when it was suggested that Phil's
Catfish might be a better boat.

I believe those three C's are the only ones Jim says are "seaworthy" - i.e. for
open water, I will look at them again I think, I am starting to think that I am
going to need two more boats.
If I did upsize a Catfish then I might consider changing the rigging to avoid
that long boom (though I do like the look) but I've read that a sailplan like
the NISBoats (Cat Ketch?) is supposed to be easy to handle and forgiving on the
inexperienced. But now I am talking about changing it so much that it is not
really the same boat anymore and maybe I should be looking a something else...

Hence I have been going round in circles for the last year trying to work out
the best option.

Anyway,
Thanks for the advice


--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "prairiedog2332" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> Simon,
>
> Is Pummicestone Passage just north of Deception Bay? Looks to be a very
> nice area. How are the winds and tides in that area?
>
> Now I know the location, size of your family and that you have Jim's
> book, you might want to consider the three "C"s - Caroline, Caprice and
> Cormorant - all with water ballast and off-shore capability. Caprice is
> probably one of the larger boats regularly towed all over with a small
> 4-banger vehicle by Duckworks owners Chuck and Sandra Leinweber.
>
> http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/caprice/index.htm
>
> Garth Battista, the publisher of Jim's book and many others, built the
> first Cormorant and sailed it out in Long Island Sound.
>
> http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/cormorant/index.htm
>
> Caroline is shorter and lighter and plans were completed after Jim's
> book was published. It created a lot of interest at the 2010 Newport
> Woodenboat show. I was displayed on it's trailer with the slot hoop-tent
> up which gives  standing headroom inside.
>
> http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/caroline/index.htm
>
> All three designs are based on the same hull shape and Jim talks about
> the challenges of up-sizing a hull. I don't like the looks of his bow
> design compared to the Bolger cats but I guess the plywood bends are
> easier and it works very well in big waves and chop.
>
> I too have always loved the profile of the Fishcat Beachcruiser, but I
> would be a bit intimidated by that long boom, especially if the boat was
> upsized to make it even longer. The sail rig on Caroline is much more
> relaxing in my view and a fellow also drew a junk rig as an option. Not
> the one shown at the link above though. That one did not work too well
> going upwind.
>
> Nels
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "simonfbroad" <simonfbroad@> wrote:
> >
> > Nels
> >
> > Hi, thanks for the response.
> > I'm actually building David Beede's "Summer Breeze" as a very very
> first boat, just to 'get my hands dirty' as it were, but I expect to
> outgrow it very quickly (and I'm making all those first-timer mistakes
> on it).
> >
> > I have 4 children and 3 grandchildren, so permutations for a day out
> will be quite varied.
> > We live in S.E. Queensland and quiet waters like Pummicestone Passage
> are right on our door step, hence the desire for a shallow draft, in
> places I'm told there is only 8 inches of water.
> > I understand that the wide beam, in calm waters, gives a good initial
> stability and this might be good for some of my passengers, especially
> as we share the water with jetski's and tinnies.
> >
> > I also would like for the wife and I to be able to go up or down the
> coast for a weekend now and then - not sure if that means another boat
> or if the Beachcat would be suitable for both uses.
> >
> > I have read Jim Michelak's book, and the Ultrasimple Boatbuilding one
> by Gavin Atkins. The Instant Boats book is on my list to read, haven't
> gotten round to it yet.
> >
> > Still got an Open Mind about it all though - (hey, that's another book
> on my must read list :o)
> >
> > Cheers
> > Simon
>

Hi Tom,

Interesting method.  Do I understand it?  Take the boat up a ways and then the
double loop allows you to rotate since the end of the lifting has a block on it.

Reed

Hi everyone, I'm new here and initially I would like to know if anyone on the
forum in the UK has built a Micro of any description? I'm planning to start one
soon and would like to talk to anyone in the UK who has already completed one. I
believe Martin Roberts has one on the Deben, is he active on the forum? Thanks
for any help. Stephen

One solution is, of course, to hook the lines up to foot pedals. But,
one I've copied from Herreshoff's Coquina is to have one continuous
line running from one side of the yoke (say starboard), along the
starboard gunwale to a small block attached, say, to a bulkhead
forward or to the gunwale itself, across to the port side, through
another
block and back to the port yoke.  This continuous line can be pulled
back and forth with one hand to steer.  The great advantage is that you
can steer equally well from anywhere in the boat.  It may help to
add some fairleads or run the lines under the deck to avoid their
getting tangled with other lines.

Andrew
______________________________________________________
Andrew Kitchen
155 Thistledown Drive
Rochester, NY 14617-3048

> The item that puzzles me is the steering set up. It appears there are
> two steering lines running from a yoke on the rudder, terminating with
> a toggle on each end? My question is - how does one use these toggles
> and still have a hand free for the main sheet?

I really like the sailing rig option as shown on page 50 of BWAOM and am
thinking of adapting it to a sailing canoe. The leeboard set-up is especially
elegant, as it flips up aft if the leeboard hits an obstruction, but still keeps
the leeboard vertical and parallel to the water flow. And is easy to install and
remove with only two loops of line secured to holes in each gunwale to secure
it.

The item that puzzles me is the steering set up. It appears there are two
steering lines running from a yoke on the rudder, terminating with a toggle on
each end? My question is - how does one use these toggles and still have a hand
free for the main sheet?

Any thoughts one this? Or options?

BTW - anyone considering adapting a sail rig for a canoe, the 35 square ft. sail
shown here is a steal for $100. Calls for a 7' 6" mast, same as an Optimist
Dinghy. Perhaps an 8' closet rod might work!

http://www.neilprydesails.com/store/pram.htm

Thanks,

Nels

Nels