> The forward well has more space
> with the mast/tabernacle further forward. Room for a deck chair now!

The best thing about the new gangway through the forward bulkhead to
the forward well, is that it would accept the porta-potty, effectively
giving the 16' long micro a private area for the 'head'. [w/curtain across
the opening in the newly added bulkhead at station 10]

Can you name another cruiser, 16 feet long, with a private place
for a toilet?

[my mind now gearing up in free wheeling mode]

The Coast Guard regulations prohibit 'discharge' of human waste.
This amounts to: you cannot pee or poop in in a bucket, and then
legally dump the bucket into water.  But, you can legally pee or
poop directly into the water, as long as no bucket involved.
Therefore perhaps a hole in the hull bottom of the free flooding forward
well of the Micro would not be considered a 'discharge' per the US
regulations.

[As I understand the law, check for yourself,
I am not giving legal advice.]

Yeee- Homer!!!!!!!!-

Zack Tiger <zackalicious@...> wrote:I have been building rather a large
number of boats
recently in my "cerebral boatyard". Most of these are
designed and built only "cerebrally", but some get put
down on paper and get fleshed out and detailed.
While i was at work yesterday, I saw something that
inspired yet another deswign. I work at a nuclear
power plant, and we had a contractor in to harvest
weeds from the intake channel (which supplies large
volumes of cooling water to the condensers).
This rig was about 25' long, and was essentially a
steel scow with a chute at the front to scoop and cut
weeds, and a conveyor belt to move them to a storage
bin in the stern. Pretty tame stuff....except for one
thing....
As I watched this rig work, I noticed that it was a
diesel powered side-wheeler! It has a Detroit Deisel
four cylinder engine (either a 4-53 or 4-71) coupled
via a gearbox (Allison automatic) to a modified rear
axle. This whole rig could be lifted from an old
school bus intact! My mind pictured a shantyboat form,
like Shanteuse or Harmonica, with open fretted side
paddle wheel boxes, her hull all in white with red or
dark green trim, a wire-stayed black smokestack made
from stovepipe, with a crown cap and "foghorn"
whistle. A small cabin aft, and canvas surrey top
forward,similar to Paul Esterle's "Winton M. Green",
draped in "icicle' Christmas lights (powered by the
battery mounted inverter), she would be a dream slowly
chugging up the lake at sunset, while the crew and
passengers sat on lawn chairs, watching the steaks
cook on the small hibachi, glasses of cold something
in hand (can you TASTE it Bruce?)
Perhaps instead of the school bus power unit, I could
revamp the old VW rabbit deisel from the houseboat
days..hmmmmm, it has a transverse mount with two
halfshafts.......differential braking could provide
steering.....oh god, here we go! I can see the wife
shivering already! Yet another crazy project!

Offered for your comments and ideas...........



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yes Nels, the rig has got more complicated than ever. All those extra
battens, jaws and lines for the mizzen....a nightmare.
DonB
> A lot of work and complication in my view, but the results would be
> improved performance in every facet of which some people have
> considered compromises in the original. The original is still the
> best choice in the KISS traditions!
>
> These modifications on a Long Micro would result in a fully capable
> ocean-going maxi-micro motorsailor:-)
>
> Cheers, Nels

> Yes Nels, the rig has got more complicated than ever. All those extra
> battens, jaws and lines for the mizzen....a nightmare.
> DonB

Plus a couple halyards, and some pulleys for 35 SF of sail,
to gain 8 SF in area (30%) over the previous sprit sail.
Not quite "a nightmare" but no doubt more complex.

Also, worth noting, the new Micro plan relocates the main
sheet of the mainsail from the stern quarter posts, to a
horse on the top deck (roof) of the cabin.  Plus, the
intermediate pully for the main sail sheetlet is relocated
down, to clear the sliding mizzen batten jaws.

A look at Firebrand, as it appears in 30-Odd Boats -- it was never
built, as far as I know --  will provide a few ideas about how to
utilize such an engine.

Firebrand, 26'6" x 4'3" and an ancestor of Sneakeasy, was designed as
a simple hull to make best use of a small steam engine. The drawing
shows condenser boxes recessed into the bottom of the hull. The same
idea could be used for whatever you call keel cooling, when there
isn't a keel.

Perhaps you could mount the bike's frame inside the hull, so that the
driver and passenger could sit on the original seats. The original
fuel tank would be used and steering would be with the original
handlebars; a kind of poor man's jetski...

Howard

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Zack Tiger <zackalicious@y...> wrote:
> One possible solution to the delimma would be to use a
> motorcycle engine incorporating a shaft drive. The are
> many mid-displacement bikes (approx.500cc's) out there
> in wrecker's or breaker's yards available cheap,

You're not the only one, Zack.

Something I've never understood about paddlewheels is how to work out
the gearing. Obviously the paddles, at the bottom of the paddlewheel,
have to move backwards faster than the speed of the water moving past
the hull; but how much faster? Does anyone know? And what is the rule
of thumb that determines the under-water area of the paddle blades?

Whatever the required speed is, the paddleshaft(s) would have to turn
a lot slower than the half-shafts of a road-vehicle.

Getting back to Bolger: The Folding Schooner shows, in the Toy
Riverboat chapter, a 20'5" x 8' sidewheeler, styled like an old
Mississippi sternwheeler. The design uses a 5 hp diesel with 2:1
reduction, a diff and half-shafts from a VW Rabbit (I think Bolger
owned one at the time), with a double-reduction system of belts and
cogged wheels to drive the paddles.

I don't think the design uses the steering system, you propose, Zac.
This is how tracked vehicles steer, isn't it?

Howard

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Zack Tiger <zackalicious@y...> wrote:
> I have been building rather a large number of boats
> recently in my "cerebral boatyard".

> As I watched this rig work, I noticed that it was a
> diesel powered side-wheeler!

>Something I've never understood about paddlewheels is how to work out
>the gearing. Obviously the paddles, at the bottom of the paddlewheel,
>have to move backwards faster than the speed of the water moving past
>the hull; but how much faster? Does anyone know? And what is the rule
>of thumb that determines the under-water area of the paddle blades?
>
>Whatever the required speed is, the paddleshaft(s) would have to turn
>a lot slower than the half-shafts of a road-vehicle.


I've done a lot of research on this recently and here's what I've found out on
paddlewheels.

There is no set rule as to RPM but most stern wheels rotate anywhere from 40 to
100 RPM with 60 - 65 being the most common RPM.  Unless you have a specially
built wheel like Bolger designs on his Fast Sternwheeler you get a lot of foam
and air injected going faster than 100 RPM causing very low efficiency.

You should figure at least 30% slip and probably closer to 50%.  In a rough
estimate you can figure the required RPM by the wheel diameter and intended
speed.  So if you intend to build your boat to hit 10 MPH using a 6 foot
diameter wheel you first get the circumference of the wheel which is 18.84 feet.
To go ten miles per hour you need to cover (5280 feet X 10 miles ) divided by 60
minutes or 880 feet per minute.  Since the paddle is 18.84 feet around you need
about 47 RPM then allow for 30% slip, you'd need about 60 RPM on the wheel.  Of
course the thrust is based on power and paddles, this is just the speed you need
on the wheel to get to 10 MPH.

The rule of thumb is one paddle for every 1 foot of diameter plus 2.  On a 6
foot tall wheel, that's 8 paddles.

The paddle size is somewhat guess work based on length, width, depth, and HP. 
One rule that is floating around the WWW is to divide your HP by the feet in
width of the paddle wheel to get the inches of paddle width PLUS 2 inches.  If
the wheel is 5 feet wide using a 30HP motor you get an 8" paddle.  But, 1 or 2
inches make a big difference in how well the engine can handle the wheel and how
efficient the wheel is to the power, oh, and changing RPM will affect things as
well.

Here's a good site to start with http://gemort.wirefire.com/contents.htm

Jeff


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hmm, paddlewheelers. Just to add to the mischief, I'll mention that the
rusty yard tractor out in the shed has a 12 horse B&S twin, and a belt
coupled six speed transaxle. Noisy, aircooled but cheap. Extension shafts
would drive side wheels & the gears might ease paddlewheel design [and
extend the useable speed range].

For a while I toyed with locking the differential in the transaxle and
building a sternwheeler shantyboat. The annoying exhaust noise could be
pushed up a riverboat style stack and the shaft which wasn't coupled to the
drive could turn a squirrel cage to force vent air through the
sound-deadening engine enclosure.

cheers
Derek

Thanks for that, Jeff. I'll  have a look at that site. Maybe it will
lead me to an answer to questions as to: 1) how deeply do the blades
need to be immersed and 2) whether they should be mounted radially,
or tilted slightly. Radial mounting seems to be almost universal.

Recently I saw an interesting TV program about early ocean-going
paddlesteamers. I was aware of the problem of varying blade immersion
as waves move along along the hull or as displacement varies, but
hadn't considered that there is a steering problem when there are
transverse waves, which cause alternate paddles to push harder. I.K.
Brunel solution was to use fore-and-aft sails to limit the boat's
roll and thus make paddle immersion more constant.

No wonder the screw propellor quickly became almost universal, except
for a few cases like the one you describe, Jeff, or for passenger
boats on calm lakes.

Howard

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
>
> Here's a good site to start with
http://gemort.wirefire.com/contents.htm

Build it and they will come! (for a steak, so will I)

Paul

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Jason,

Thanks for the info.  The fillets along the keel would hopefully
reduce the noise at anchor,

Cheers,

John
> John,
> It's called the enclosed cruiser upgrade 426B or something like
> that.
> It's got the house with dimensions for that bulkhead that forms
the
> divider between front stowage and bumks, Tabernacle, larger
chinese
> gaff mizzen, a drifter, rounded over bow with two fillets along
the
> keel at water line to give a v entry. Drop board companion way up
at
> the forward bulkhead  a new vang, some changes to the boomkin and
> some other minor things.
> That's what i recall.
> Jason

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > some other minor things.
> > Jason
> J. you described it well, and
> the minor things include
> a new end plate on the rudder,
> and a revised scheme for the
> routing of the forward lines.

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > some other minor things.
> > Jason
> J. you described it well, and
> the minor things include
> a new end plate on the rudder,
> and a revised scheme for the
> routing of the forward lines.

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> >  The things that attracted me to the Micro were the simplicity
of the build (Excluding the keel), the simple sailing rig, and the
ability to sail high and dry in an elegant manner in a compact 15'
4" boat on the choppy waters of Sydney harbour.  However I'd love to
have that enclosed cabin and a bit more sail area or better control
of the sail (reefing and adjustment).  I bought some plans for the
Great Pelican a while back (when I wasn't feeling well!) and its
sail is a balance lug/chinese lug?? or something which I think could
be fitted into the areas vacated by the standard Micro sail.  It
doesn't look as complicated as the chinese gaff main on the Micro
Modifications.  I'm going to investigate this (See link below)


http://community-2.webtv.net/PelicanSailboat/SFPELICANSAILBOATS/

Cheers,

John

  some other minor things.
> > Jason
> J. you described it well, and
> the minor things include
> a new end plate on the rudder,
> and a revised scheme for the
> routing of the forward lines.

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > some other minor things.
> > Jason
> J. you described it well, and
> the minor things include
> a new end plate on the rudder,
> and a revised scheme for the
> routing of the forward lines.

Hi Bruce,
Yes, I noticed the new horse position, right above where you would be
standing to change sides and generally walk about. I don't at all like
the thought of straining ropes and thrashing blocks right at
scalp/forehead height, especially as the boat will be mostly sailed
with the sliding hatch open.
DonB

> Also, worth noting, the new Micro plan relocates the main
> sheet of the mainsail from the stern quarter posts, to a
> horse on the top deck (roof) of the cabin.  Plus, the
> intermediate pully for the main sail sheetlet is relocated
> down, to clear the sliding mizzen batten jaws.

You have any pictures of this conversion? Strikes me as similar to the
drive I have seen in the Australian Cat CC29.

HJ

Zack Tiger wrote:

>Howard:
>I repowered an old (sic 'cheap') houseboat I bought by
>installing an engine/transaxle combo from a VW rabbit
>diesel on a well between the two aluminum pontoons.
>Instead of welding the gears, I had a spool fabricated
>(also called a "locker" by the circle track boys) to
>tie the two halfshafts together. Instead of
>eliminating the front shaft, I kept it and ran it
>forward to a mounting plate, running in the original
>wheel bearing and hub. this was used to drive
>accessories such as a gnerator, bilge pump, etc.
>While not a lot of time was spent on this (it was
>after all a 'cheapie' exercise, there were some
>technical problems unresolved to my satisfaction when
>I sold the boat:
>1) aux shaft rpm varied with engine speed, which isnt
>so good for generating, pumping etc. I think a torgue
>converter/clutch off a motorcycle or snowmobile would
>help rectify this.
>2) the main drive shaft/support/prop drive was iffyin
>terms of cv jointboot sealing and longevity. Also, do
>to the fact that the strut had to be outboard of the
>cv joint for stability, changing the boot was a pain
>in the @$%. I tried a split boot that used small bolts
>down the side and which could be installed without
>ynaking the whole outboard shaft, but they were not
>reliable.
>3) the low position of the drive shaft in the well box
>made for some real challenges to sealing, and early
>attempts werenot too waterproof. A modified sterndrive
>bellows solved this problem eventually.
>4) on the plus side, fuel economy was incredible, and
>to push that big fat barge with an outboard (she
>originally had a 75hp) would have been prohibitive.
>--- donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>

I had a 32 ft Aluminum Bowpicker in Norton Sound that I used for the
herring fishery. It had an out house welded on the back with a straight
pipe to the water.

HJ

Bruce Hallman wrote:

>>The forward well has more space
>>with the mast/tabernacle further forward. Room for a deck chair now!
>>
>>
>
>The best thing about the new gangway through the forward bulkhead to
>the forward well, is that it would accept the porta-potty, effectively
>giving the 16' long micro a private area for the 'head'. [w/curtain across
>the opening in the newly added bulkhead at station 10]
>
>Can you name another cruiser, 16 feet long, with a private place
>for a toilet?
>
>[my mind now gearing up in free wheeling mode]
>
>The Coast Guard regulations prohibit 'discharge' of human waste.
>This amounts to: you cannot pee or poop in in a bucket, and then
>legally dump the bucket into water.  But, you can legally pee or
>poop directly into the water, as long as no bucket involved.
>Therefore perhaps a hole in the hull bottom of the free flooding forward
>well of the Micro would not be considered a 'discharge' per the US
>regulations.
>
>[As I understand the law, check for yourself,
>I am not giving legal advice.]
>
>
>
>

Our moderator tells me my presence on this site (selling books)is
spam. I have moved the list to the Bolger4sale site. I am not a
dealer. These books are going because I am trying to simplify my life
and reducing both my boating library and my boats to a more managable
level. I think previous purchasers can attest to my honesty and to the
fact that I'm not going to get rich selling these books.

My boats are now limited to my Bolger Bobcat, Herreshoff Nereia pram,
and Chappelle's camp skiff now under construction. The Bobcat is a
joy, the pram a relic of my inexperience and the comments about the
camp skiff will be in Great lakes Boatbuilders or WoodenPowerboats
lists. My next Bolger boat will be a Bolger canoe Design #495.

The drawing was a "door prize" at the Great Lakes Symposium several
years ago and I'm not sure of it's legitimacy but I'll clear that with
Mr Bolger or Mr Payson in time.

Bob Chamberland

> Yes, I noticed the new horse position, right above where you would be
> standing to change sides and generally walk about. I don't at all like
> the thought of straining ropes and thrashing blocks right at
> scalp/forehead height, especially as the boat will be mostly sailed
> with the sliding hatch open.
> DonB

On my Navigator cabin, I lengthened the slot about a foot,
and discovered that an unintended consequence was that
I then needed a 'horse' for the boom to rest  upon when not
hoisted.  My horse is in about the same position as  the
one on the Micro II plans.  Being 6 feet tall, my eyes fall below
the horse when I am standing in the slot, and I don't feel there is
a problem with vision or standing height.

As is painfully obvious, I haven't launched yet, but I have
spent some time 'dry run' sailing in my driveway, and find
that there is an excellent comfortable position to stand
or sit with your butt in the cabin gangway hatch while sailing,
[head well clear of the horse].

Also, at times, the horse is also a comfortable place
to rest your hands, bracing your balance, while you stand in the
slot.

I can't say I *truly* understand the mechanics of sheeting a
gaff sail, but I am guessing that Bolger welcomes the downward
pull of the new sheet location for its 'vang' effect on the boom, which
would be greater in the new configuration than the old.

Have you noticed how the new mainsheet runs forward before it
enters the cabin?  I see that the fairlead to enter the cabin might
be a source of a rainwater leak.

Just an update on my progress: I am currently fiberglassing and
refinishing the perimeter of my cabin roof, hairline joints in which
I have diagnosed as the source of rainwater leaks into the cabin.

Also, I have come down with a case of 'cold feet' about my
jerry rigged wheel bearing job done while rebuilding my trailer.
So, I bit the bullet and ordered new a axle, hubs, wheels
and tires, yet to be installed.  The last thing I want would be
a bearing or tire failure on the trailer.  [New tires, because the $56
Costco tires I bought were wrong, being 'passenger car' load rating,
not the higher trailer load rating 'C'.]  The trailer is a safety issue
that I must get right.

Typical blade depth on paddle wheels is to have the top of the paddle about 1 or
2 inches below the water line at rest.  There are no proof in racing or pushing
contest that the herringbone designs are better than just straight paddles so I
would think going straight would be easier to install and maintain.

Propellers are more efficient since they don't have to compress water on the
front side and lift water on the backside of the wheel.  Even with the advent of
complicated tilting mechanisms that would keep the paddle at 90 degrees to the
water the propeller was still more efficient.

Your right on all accounts for the side wheelers.  Any quartering waves made the
boat yaw around with steering problems.  Stern wheels would lift their wheels
clear of the water as they went over swells which was just as bad.  The only
argument for paddle boats today are nastolgia.

I'd enjoy owning one just for the wow and fun factor.

Jeff


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> The fillets along the keel would hopefully
> reduce the noise at anchor,
> John

I don't recall ever actually hearing complaints of noise at
anchor with the Micro.   Is the noise a real or imaginary
problem?

> As is painfully obvious, I haven't launched yet,

Yeesh, I feel your pain. Doesn't look as though i'll make it till
spring. I can't get the weather to cooperate and since i keep
finding a spot to fair i have to wait at least another week each
time for it to cure before painting. First projected snow of the
season is this weekend. I've got the windows installed and all the
bits cetoled. The plan is to pop the windows out put about 4 coats
of primer on her bed down the windows batten down the hatches and
store her for the winter. I'll get all the spars and bits finished
up and rigged by the warmth of the woodburning stove in the cabin
this winter. I'm moving farther out into the woods this week and i
donb't have a trailer yet so my little beast will be left unattended
at the old building site 20 miles from my new cabin. Oh well the
water will start icing in 30 days anyhow.

Jason conceiting defeat to old man winter and praying for an early
thaw!

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > The slap, slap, slap, of the waves and or ripples resonates
through the hull.  I suspect it would drive you crazy after a
while.

John

The fillets along the keel would hopefully
> > reduce the noise at anchor,
> > John
>
> I don't recall ever actually hearing complaints of noise at
> anchor with the Micro.   Is the noise a real or imaginary
> problem?

> > > The slap, slap, slap, of the waves and or ripples resonates
> through the hull.  I suspect it would drive you crazy after a while.
> John

Depends on the individual.  Some people hate to hear the
seagulls too <g>.  Personally, the clanking of halyards on the
aluminum masts of plastic boats gets on my nerves.

I just wonder if the fillet piece was a result of complaints received,
or perhaps from Susanne Altenberger having fun with her CADD
program.

A third potential reason, not mentioned in the MAIB article is that
the fillet has hydrodynamic or structural benefits.

Yes Bruce, it would be heartbreaking to damage your craft for a
trailer fault.
I considered the horse where shown on the new plan when building, but
it just did not feel right. A shame to spoil that nice open feeling
with the big hatch wide open. My boom has 2 resting places, a bar in
front of the hatch and another connecting the aft stanchions.
Sitting as you say at the after end of the opening looks a really
comfortable place for relaxed sailing, with the tiller between your
legs and both hands free for taking the caps off bottles!
As to leaks, I have been lucky to have none, though being paranoid
about leaks in my work, a lot af attention was paid to that.
Progress on Oink has been zero since our Home Show here a few months
ago.....I just cannot get on top of the work generated, and have even
spent my weekends following up new clients. However the weather is
warming up now, and time will be made,
DonB
>
> On my Navigator cabin, I lengthened the slot about a foot,
> and discovered that an unintended consequence was that
> I then needed a 'horse' for the boom to rest  upon when not
> hoisted.  My horse is in about the same position as  the
> one on the Micro II plans.  Being 6 feet tall, my eyes fall below
> the horse when I am standing in the slot, and I don't feel there is
> a problem with vision or standing height.
>
> As is painfully obvious, I haven't launched yet, but I have
> spent some time 'dry run' sailing in my driveway, and find
> that there is an excellent comfortable position to stand
> or sit with your butt in the cabin gangway hatch while sailing,
> [head well clear of the horse].
>
> Also, at times, the horse is also a comfortable place
> to rest your hands, bracing your balance, while you stand in the
> slot.
>
> I can't say I *truly* understand the mechanics of sheeting a
> gaff sail, but I am guessing that Bolger welcomes the downward
> pull of the new sheet location for its 'vang' effect on the boom, which
> would be greater in the new configuration than the old.
>
> Have you noticed how the new mainsheet runs forward before it
> enters the cabin?  I see that the fairlead to enter the cabin might
> be a source of a rainwater leak.
>
> Just an update on my progress: I am currently fiberglassing and
> refinishing the perimeter of my cabin roof, hairline joints in which
> I have diagnosed as the source of rainwater leaks into the cabin.
>
> Also, I have come down with a case of 'cold feet' about my
> jerry rigged wheel bearing job done while rebuilding my trailer.
> So, I bit the bullet and ordered new a axle, hubs, wheels
> and tires, yet to be installed.  The last thing I want would be
> a bearing or tire failure on the trailer.  [New tires, because the $56
> Costco tires I bought were wrong, being 'passenger car' load rating,
> not the higher trailer load rating 'C'.]  The trailer is a safety issue
> that I must get right.

> DonB
> Yes Bruce, it would be heartbreaking to damage
> your craft for a trailer fault.

Or kill someone.

> I considered the horse where shown on
> the new plan when building, but
> it just did not feel right.

The new plans show the 'short hatch' and the horse
is a few inches forward of the forward edge of the
hatch.  Shouldn't hit your head, unless your hatch
is enlarged.

http://hallman.org/bolger/422/horse.gif

Because of my dumb dumb modification to the sail plan i think my
traveler will be strung accross the top of the two stanchions....the
boom extends aft of the stern ala' old school cat boat, we'll see
how that goes.

Since she has a tabernacle I put the gallows for the mast where
bolger shows his traveler...it's not been bedded/bolted down yet as
it's brightwork, but it makes a great grab rail to swing yourself
down through the companionway slot(haven't built the step yet.

When i talked to susanne about the tabernacle mod she warned me of
some other mods they'd been wanting to do. The letter that came with
the plan said the fillets were there to stop pounding at anchor, she
wrote there had been a number of complaints about the noise.

Jason

Oh, I hadn't noticed that the hatch is now short. Strange, because
they have stressed the large open hatch as being part of making the
glasshouse livable (like Birdwatcher). I wouldn't like to lose the
lovely open rag-top feeling of the original hatch design.
DonB
> The new plans show the 'short hatch' and the horse
> is a few inches forward of the forward edge of the
> hatch.  Shouldn't hit your head, unless your hatch
> is enlarged.
>
> http://hallman.org/bolger/422/horse.gif

Do you have bears near that cabin Jason?  You might have more than a
bent keel to contend with come spring!
Are you retreating into the hills for peace and quiet to knock out
your thesis?
DonB
  I'll get all the spars and bits finished
> up and rigged by the warmth of the woodburning stove in the cabin
> this winter. I'm moving farther out into the woods this week and i
> donb't have a trailer yet so my little beast will be left unattended
> at the old building site 20 miles from my new cabin. Oh well the
> water will start icing in 30 days anyhow.
>
> Jason conceiting defeat to old man winter and praying for an early
> thaw!