--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Hey i got off my lazy bum and uploaded some pictures of building
my
> micro navigator.
> Go to:
> ofoto.com
> username is jasonstancil(@)hotmail.com...........please don't spam
> me. The password is bolger.

Jason,
     Thanks for the nice pictures. I couldn't help but to notice that
for both your bow transom and transom,you have cut out,right through
the plywood,the notches for the chine logs and shear clamps.Is this
really how it is shown on the plans? I only ask since I did mine
with notches in the backing frames of the two transoms but not
through the plywood thus making for a nice even exterior surface and
easy protection for the end grains of the chine logs and shear
clamps.
     Nevertheless, I still can't believe I screwed up my transoms and
never noticed......hopefully Nels,the new owner of LESTAT, hasn't
noticed either :-). I can't find my Micro plans right now but could
someone out there confirm for me what the plans say regarding the
chine logs and shear clamps at the transoms?
     Keep up the good work Jason and here's to wishing you a
successful launch this summer!!!

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,ex owner/builder of LESTAT and un-reformed lunatic who
would never dream of actually drinking through the lofting
process.Construction and finishing stages,no problem but NEVER while
lofting........

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> I went to try and dry fit the rub rails and sheer clamps tonite.
No
> way that sheer clamp is making that bend by the cockpit/cabin
> interface. Further more bolger navigator conversion drawing has a
> sharp cut......bruce's navigator looks like that.....yet oink
> does'nt. Feedback would be appreciated before i take the jigsaw to
> the hull.
> Thanks,
> Jason

Jason,
     Dry fit the shear clamps,and simply have a tight butt joint
where they change their sweep.
     For the rub rails;I hope that you traced out its' sweep on the
side panels,while it was laying flat on the floor, and that it was
done "perfectly" sweet and fair. Use that line to guide your install
of the rub rail.Beginning at the bow and with a helper holding up
the aft end of the rubrail start by screwing the rubrail down from
the inside out.Get a screw in say every foot or so and be most
particular about following the traced line.A less then perfectly
fair curve in your rubrail will stick out like a sore
thumb,especially on a slab sided hull.As you slowly work your aft
make sure your helper understands this as they apply a nice steady
pressure to the rubrail.Once she is all installed,take the time to
look her over a few times from many angles to ensure she is in fact
perfectly fair.
      Now,working backwards,back out the screws only enough to
release the rubrail while your helper holds the now straightening
out end and keeps it from twisting and breaking. If you want to be
fussy,you may wish to put a hollow on the back face of the rub rail
before offering her up for the permanent install.Into this
hollow,lay in your favorite poison(epoxy or 3m5200) and then proceed
to re-install the rubrail using a few proud screws to align the rail
perfectly back into the correct postition.
     Are you going with a one piece rubrail or two piece as on the
plans(I think!)?

Hope this helps.

Peter Lenihan

For some good shots of Herb's Fishcat see Jeff Blunck's superb page
on last years Kingston Messabout.

http://4dw.net/cosailor/messabout.htm

Bruce Hector

Peter!
You just stopped my heart. I thought i done screwed up good.
I just scambled for my plans the notches are through the frames
entirely.......i remembering questioning it but i went along with
it. Since i took those pictures i faired in the logs with some micro
ballon goo and got the bow steps right (top one is an inch
high).....the glass tape will leave more of a bump than the log
notch.
Jason

Dry fit the shear clamps,and simply have a tight butt joint
> where they change their sweep.

Thats what i figured would have to do

>     For the rub rails;I hope that you traced out its' sweep on the
> side panels,while it was laying flat on the floor, and that it was
> done "perfectly" sweet and fair.

Yeah that will be a challange. The port side has lines on inside so
i'll have to make a little jig to scribe it to the ouside.....since
i did a two for one cut i've got no lines on the starboard side. I
was thinking of marking the points on the side from the the
assembled expansion on the plans and hoping the the rub rail itself
would form a fair curve......if it's not quite right i do both sides
this way so they are symetrically goofy.......so much for saving
time doing the two for one cut.

>      Now,working backwards,back out the screws only enough to
> release the rubrail while your helper holds the now straightening
> out end and keeps it from twisting and breaking.

Huh? what does that mean?

Are you going with a one piece rubrail or two piece as on the
> plans(I think!)?

Two pieces on the plans.....but being incapable of doing as i'm told
(unless it involves putting big ass holes in my transoms) I'm
thinking of doing mine like bruce hallman's navigator. Because, i'm
manhandling it solo and i figure i can put the thin pieces in easier
than that one big inner rail. Also i hate scarfing and the multiple
pieces will self scarf due to it neiboring strip. I'll see how it
goes.

> Hope this helps.

yep thanks

Jason

Jason & Peter,

Yah, through the frames is what I understood, so that's what I did.

My much greater concern - after reading this conversation - is that I
REALLY screwed up by "drinking while lofting".  Now I feel obligated
to drink throughout just for the sake of consistancy.

Guidance appreciated,
Jim



--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Peter!
> You just stopped my heart. I thought i done screwed up good.
> I just scambled for my plans the notches are through the frames
> entirely.......i remembering questioning it but i went along with
> it. Since i took those pictures i faired in the logs with some
micro
> ballon goo and got the bow steps right (top one is an inch
> high).....the glass tape will leave more of a bump than the log
> notch.
> Jason

I just measured my basement and stuck a scale to the navigator
plans. The pilothouse won't clear the center beam in my basement
even without the keel installed. So the new plan of attack involves
finishing out the two wells getting the decks on, building a cradle,
hanging the keel, stuffing the lead in it then dragging it outside
(hoping the cradle will stay together) for the framing of the house
and the finish. I wrote that like i'd get it all done this week, ha!
If you folks have methodology that worked well, do tell.
Jason

Hi Bruce -

         Just something I try to warn everyone about on the Yamaha O.B.'s  ---
the fresh water tube that brings water up to cool the motor for some reason is
very small in diameter.    Everyone I know (myself & my son included) about 12
people,  all love the Yamaha but this tube constantly get's clogged from a
build-up of salt crystals.

         I suppose Yamaha saves a nickle on each smaller tube.

         The solution we've found is to carry a gallon bottle of "Vinigar"  and
put it in a bucket and lowering the prop (water intake) into the bucket and run
the engine a minute of so to disolve any buildup - it works.

         If I were to buy another O.B. when my "Champlain" is completed  I will
still go with a Yamaha. Unless Honda or one of the US O.B,'s  (are any still
made in the USA ?)  has corrected this problem.

                                                         Aloha - Jack Spoering -
Ft Lauderdale, Fla.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, findleyjh@e... wrote:
> Jason & Peter,
>
> Yah, through the frames is what I understood, so that's what I did.
>
> My much greater concern - after reading this conversation - is
that I
> REALLY screwed up by "drinking while lofting".  Now I feel
obligated
> to drink throughout just for the sake of consistancy.
>
> Guidance appreciated,
> Jim

Hey jim where are you in the process?
Glad i'm not the only one doing this. I feel like a jack ass asking
all these questions and fielding my ideas to these poor souls. But
they already made the mistakes and got the job done. I really value
the imput from these guys even if i totally disregard it and do dumb
things anyhow.
Thanks Everyone,
Jason

Jeff, no, I don't need the numer as I'm not in the mkt. I suspected
that you were refering to that particular engine. It loks like an
air-cooled but has a radiator. We had one at the college I worked
for and they last forever and take alot of abuse. What are you doing
for a reversing gear? I've been away from this group for the summer,
maybe you've already told the group all of this, and can point me to
the thread.......
Don


--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...>
wrote:
> It's liquid cooled.  I believe they are common in the John Deere
yard
> tractors and a number of RV style generators.  I purchased mine on
line from
> a dealer who had several excess replacement engines at about 50%
discount
> from new.  I can provide his email if anyone wishes to email me
privately.
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tysond99" <tysond99@y...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 5:41 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy
>
>
> > Jeff, What type of engine is this Kawasaki........air cooled,
liquid
> > cooled, where'd you get it?
> > Don
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
> > > Jeff,
> > >
> > > Have you considered changing the drake tail stern to a slipper
> > launch
> > > style stern? The inboard power you're using would make this
> > possible.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <boatbuilding@g...>
wrote:
> > > > There has been considerable talk about small inboard engines
> > > lately.  I'm planning on getting started mounting my 20 HP,  2
> > > cylinder Kawasaki motor in the Sneakeasy this weekend.  I have
6'
> > > prop shaft, propeller, u-joint, and cutlass bearing ready to be
> > > fitted from BeaverTail Motors.  They're great to work with and
had
> > no
> > > problems custom fitting a U-Joint to fit the Kawasaki for
$15.00
> > > additional charge.
> > > >
> > > > The way it's looking, I'll have an enclosed engine bay behind
> > the
> > > front seat and will be converting the splash well to a rear
seat
> > > area.  The engine bay will be enclosed with blowers to keep
things
> > > cooled and the exhaust will be well wrapped to keep the heat
> > > contained and will exit out the bottom following the prop shaft
> > out
> > > the back of the boat.
> > > >
> > > > I started forming the clam shells for the Kitchen Rudder
from 6
> > > layers of 8 ounce carbon fiber cloth and then wrapped in 4
layers
> > of
> > > 8 oz. fiberglass.  I used a large plastic bucket for my mold
since
> > > the 9 inch propeller fit's perfectly inside.  Next will be to
> > split
> > > the "molded pipe" so to speak and cut the clam shells to shape.
> > > >
> > > > This is strictly a project to test several types of "Kitchen
> > > Rudders" out there with a model of the Wyoming.  I have always
> > been
> > > unconventional in thinking about boat building and this just
> > seemed
> > > like a fun project.  I'll post more pictures on my website
after
> > the
> > > weekend.
> > > >
> > > > April brings outdoor boat building near so I must get the
> > Sneakeasy
> > > done and launched by May to get started on the last section of
the
> > > Wyoming.
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > > www.4dw.net/cosailor
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

Jeff, I must add thay like you find on Chesapeake clamming boats
sometimes I would be tempted to use hydraulics to drive the prop
(just like the John Deer 725 mower we had). This way you can adjust
prop speed withou touching the trottle....great for docking!

Don

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...>
wrote:
> It's liquid cooled.  I believe they are common in the John Deere
yard
> tractors and a number of RV style generators.  I purchased mine on
line from
> a dealer who had several excess replacement engines at about 50%
discount
> from new.  I can provide his email if anyone wishes to email me
privately.
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tysond99" <tysond99@y...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 5:41 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy
>
>
> > Jeff, What type of engine is this Kawasaki........air cooled,
liquid
> > cooled, where'd you get it?
> > Don
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
> > > Jeff,
> > >
> > > Have you considered changing the drake tail stern to a slipper
> > launch
> > > style stern? The inboard power you're using would make this
> > possible.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <boatbuilding@g...>
wrote:
> > > > There has been considerable talk about small inboard engines
> > > lately.  I'm planning on getting started mounting my 20 HP,  2
> > > cylinder Kawasaki motor in the Sneakeasy this weekend.  I have
6'
> > > prop shaft, propeller, u-joint, and cutlass bearing ready to be
> > > fitted from BeaverTail Motors.  They're great to work with and
had
> > no
> > > problems custom fitting a U-Joint to fit the Kawasaki for
$15.00
> > > additional charge.
> > > >
> > > > The way it's looking, I'll have an enclosed engine bay behind
> > the
> > > front seat and will be converting the splash well to a rear
seat
> > > area.  The engine bay will be enclosed with blowers to keep
things
> > > cooled and the exhaust will be well wrapped to keep the heat
> > > contained and will exit out the bottom following the prop shaft
> > out
> > > the back of the boat.
> > > >
> > > > I started forming the clam shells for the Kitchen Rudder
from 6
> > > layers of 8 ounce carbon fiber cloth and then wrapped in 4
layers
> > of
> > > 8 oz. fiberglass.  I used a large plastic bucket for my mold
since
> > > the 9 inch propeller fit's perfectly inside.  Next will be to
> > split
> > > the "molded pipe" so to speak and cut the clam shells to shape.
> > > >
> > > > This is strictly a project to test several types of "Kitchen
> > > Rudders" out there with a model of the Wyoming.  I have always
> > been
> > > unconventional in thinking about boat building and this just
> > seemed
> > > like a fun project.  I'll post more pictures on my website
after
> > the
> > > weekend.
> > > >
> > > > April brings outdoor boat building near so I must get the
> > Sneakeasy
> > > done and launched by May to get started on the last section of
the
> > > Wyoming.
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > > www.4dw.net/cosailor
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

--- Jason Stancil wrote:
> So the new plan of
> attack involves
> finishing out the
> two wells getting the decks on,
> building a cradle,
> hanging the keel,
> stuffing the lead

The fin keel is about 15"
high.  If you put it on
before you finish out the
insides of the cabin, be
prepared for about 1,000
trips, up and down a step
ladder while you do the
inside finish work.

I suggest you consider
finishing the insides of
the cabin before raising
the boat up to mount the
fin.

Hey Jason
I put off starting my Micro till this fall rather than starting the project late
and not being able to finish it this summer. The wait is well justified by
following your progress and letting you ask all the questions. I certainly
appreciate your doing so.

The only problem I see is that when I have to ask questions here the stock
answer is going to be, "didn't we just answer that question? Go read the
archives ya moron!"

So I for one appreciate the information that you're harvesting from this group.
Thanks.

Letting others boldly go...first.
j


Jason Stancil <jasonstancil@...> wrote:
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, findleyjh@e... wrote:
> Jason & Peter,
>
> Yah, through the frames is what I understood, so that's what I did.
>
> My much greater concern - after reading this conversation - is
that I
> REALLY screwed up by "drinking while lofting".  Now I feel
obligated
> to drink throughout just for the sake of consistancy.
>
> Guidance appreciated,
> Jim

Hey jim where are you in the process?
Glad i'm not the only one doing this. I feel like a jack ass asking
all these questions and fielding my ideas to these poor souls. But
they already made the mistakes and got the job done. I really value
the imput from these guys even if i totally disregard it and do dumb
things anyhow.
Thanks Everyone,
Jason




Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978)
282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com


Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
var lrec_target="_top";var lrec_URL = new Array();lrec_URL[1] =
"http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=1295b22kj/M=295196.4901138.6050264.3001176/D=groups/S=1\
705065791:HM/EXP=1083509087/A=1894283/R=0/id=flashurl/SIG=118tuuldn/*http://comp\
anion.yahoo.com/?.cpdl=srch";var link="javascript:LRECopenWindow(1)";var
lrec_flashfile =
'http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/broom_lrec.swf?clickTAG=\
'+link+'';var lrec_altURL =
"http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=1295b22kj/M=295196.4901138.6050264.3001176/D=groups/S=1\
705065791:HM/EXP=1083509087/A=1894283/R=1/id=altimgurl/SIG=118tuuldn/*http://com\
panion.yahoo.com/?.cpdl=srch";var lrec_altimg =
"http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/lrec.gif";var lrec_width
= 300;var lrec_height = 250;

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

    To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/

    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- "Jason Stancil" wrote:
> No way that sheer clamp
> is making that bend

[Could you, or someone,
please post the URL link to
your Micro photo album?]

Two pieces of 3/4" square
wood will bend tighter
curves than one piece
3/4" x 1 1/2".  Especially
if the curves are in three
dimensions.

Also, I made many of the
tight bends by not bending
but simply cutting a curved
piece of wood to fit the curve.

One unanticipated curve issue
that I am just encountering
is that the camber of the
roof of my boat has eased by
two inches in the  heat of
California Spring, versus
the cool of last winter.

This has implications to the
fit of the sliding roof hatch
which I am presently dealing!

Bruce
You might want to take a look at the 9.8 Tohatsu 4 stroke--it weighs
81 pounds for the minimum version. Personally I think the Tohatsu is
the best outboard in the world--they were originally built for
commercial fishermen (the smallest outboard to power a boat across
the Atlantic is a Tohatsu 2 horse--they ran it 13-16 hours a day).

The 9.8 is $1625 from: http://www.onlineoutboards.com/#

The 9.9 4 stroke is actually a little cheaper ($1589) but according
to (this gets interesting) the dealer's websites it weighs 114--but
according to the official Tohatsu brochure I downloaded from Tohatsu,
the minimal version should also weigh 81 lbs. I don't know why the
discrepancy but 30 more pounds on the stern of a Micro could be
significant.

j




--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, bruce@h... wrote:
> Bolger often specifies the Yamaha 9.9
> high thrust outboard, like on the Champlain
> etc..  I am thinking of this motor for
> my Micro Navigator.
>
> It appears that Yamaha has their dealers under
> some kind of 'gag order' so that the price of
> these outboards cannot be determined by searching
> websites.
>
> Does anybody know what the dealer cost
> is for one of these motors?

Actually I'm installing a "Kitchen Rudder" which should provide full
variable speeds from full ahead to full reverse with a single lever.  The
engine throttle need not be used unless a steady slow speed is wanted to
reduce fuel consumption.  On docking and close in maneuvers the engine would
be throttled up to provide solid thrust ability.  The "Kitchen Rudder" can
provide nearly 270 degrees of thrust.

Of course this is all theory since I've never operated one or even viewed
one in action.  Top speed on the Sneakeasy with the 20hp will be reduced due
to the drag of the appendage but I'm hoping for the same speed as a 15HP
outboard would provide.

I'm doing this for experimentation and fun.   When it's all over, the
Sneakeasy will be converted back to an outboard design and the Kawasaki
engine will run a generator for the Wyo.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: "tysond99" <tysond99@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 9:55 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy


> Jeff, I must add thay like you find on Chesapeake clamming boats
> sometimes I would be tempted to use hydraulics to drive the prop
> (just like the John Deer 725 mower we had). This way you can adjust
> prop speed withou touching the trottle....great for docking!
>
> Don
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...>
> wrote:
> > It's liquid cooled.  I believe they are common in the John Deere
> yard
> > tractors and a number of RV style generators.  I purchased mine on
> line from
> > a dealer who had several excess replacement engines at about 50%
> discount
> > from new.  I can provide his email if anyone wishes to email me
> privately.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "tysond99" <tysond99@y...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 5:41 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy
> >
> >
> > > Jeff, What type of engine is this Kawasaki........air cooled,
> liquid
> > > cooled, where'd you get it?
> > > Don
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
> > > > Jeff,
> > > >
> > > > Have you considered changing the drake tail stern to a slipper
> > > launch
> > > > style stern? The inboard power you're using would make this
> > > possible.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <boatbuilding@g...>
> wrote:
> > > > > There has been considerable talk about small inboard engines
> > > > lately.  I'm planning on getting started mounting my 20 HP,  2
> > > > cylinder Kawasaki motor in the Sneakeasy this weekend.  I have
> 6'
> > > > prop shaft, propeller, u-joint, and cutlass bearing ready to be
> > > > fitted from BeaverTail Motors.  They're great to work with and
> had
> > > no
> > > > problems custom fitting a U-Joint to fit the Kawasaki for
> $15.00
> > > > additional charge.
> > > > >
> > > > > The way it's looking, I'll have an enclosed engine bay behind
> > > the
> > > > front seat and will be converting the splash well to a rear
> seat
> > > > area.  The engine bay will be enclosed with blowers to keep
> things
> > > > cooled and the exhaust will be well wrapped to keep the heat
> > > > contained and will exit out the bottom following the prop shaft
> > > out
> > > > the back of the boat.
> > > > >
> > > > > I started forming the clam shells for the Kitchen Rudder
> from 6
> > > > layers of 8 ounce carbon fiber cloth and then wrapped in 4
> layers
> > > of
> > > > 8 oz. fiberglass.  I used a large plastic bucket for my mold
> since
> > > > the 9 inch propeller fit's perfectly inside.  Next will be to
> > > split
> > > > the "molded pipe" so to speak and cut the clam shells to shape.
> > > > >
> > > > > This is strictly a project to test several types of "Kitchen
> > > > Rudders" out there with a model of the Wyoming.  I have always
> > > been
> > > > unconventional in thinking about boat building and this just
> > > seemed
> > > > like a fun project.  I'll post more pictures on my website
> after
> > > the
> > > > weekend.
> > > > >
> > > > > April brings outdoor boat building near so I must get the
> > > Sneakeasy
> > > > done and launched by May to get started on the last section of
> the
> > > > Wyoming.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff
> > > > > www.4dw.net/cosailor
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
> away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

My thanks to Peter and Sam for their input.

Sam pretty much confirmed my thoughts that one needs to pay attention
to what they are getting into with any boat.  Of course one needs to
be more careful with some boats than others.

Peter points out that one wants to be careful in varying from the
design provided.  I agree.  I was thinking in terms of what I would
ask PB&F to provide in design change.  I'm comfortable taking
responsibility for some sensible superstructure changes.  I don't
want to mess with the design below the gunwales.

I also appreciate Peter's concern about investment, (not just in $$s).

My intent is for this boat to be an entry point, used to decide what
I like/don't like about liveaboard as a style.  I'm an experienced
tent camper, and will use this first boat to camp with for a few days
at a time.  I intend to use it for a while and then sell it.  The
only question is what will come after.

Because of the temporary nature of the need, I find myself favoring
simple and light, which means the Idaho.

Love your pictures of the cabin Fishcat Bruce. It has the look of a
Junkers 87.
Are the 'windows' solid or 'roll-up' flexible?
Is that a yuloh on the deck?
DonB
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
> For some good shots of Herb's Fishcat see Jeff Blunck's superb
page
> on last years Kingston Messabout.
>
> http://4dw.net/cosailor/messabout.htm
>
> Bruce Hector

There is a lot more time than you would think in the cabin top
Jason, which is better spent under cover.
I wonder if it is possible to somehow prefabricate the top while in
the garage, then fix in place later outside?
It also depends on the standard you wish to achieve. If you are
happy to simply bolt/screw plastic windows in mastic on the outside,
you can save a lot of time.
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> I just measured my basement and stuck a scale to the navigator
> plans. The pilothouse won't clear the center beam in my basement
> even without the keel installed. So the new plan of attack
involves
> finishing out the two wells getting the decks on, building a
cradle,
> hanging the keel, stuffing the lead in it then dragging it outside
> (hoping the cradle will stay together) for the framing of the
house
> and the finish. I wrote that like i'd get it all done this week,
ha!
> If you folks have methodology that worked well, do tell.
> Jason

I had a Tohatsu outboard on my keelboat 6-7 years ago, it was a 1987 model
longshaft. It was really fine piece, ran flawlessly. Well constructed, easy
to work on.
However, the importer in Texas discontinued some of the parts,
lower unit seals, water pump impeller, prop shaft seal.
The parts are still produced by Tohatsu, the importer refused
to get them for me. I can see not keeping the parts in the US,
but an outright refusal to help me in any way on a 10 year old
product really ticked me off. BTW, Nissan is the same motor,
same importer. I won't buy another one...

Justin



?


> Bruce
> You might want to take a look at the 9.8 Tohatsu 4 stroke--it weighs
> 81 pounds for the minimum version. Personally I think the Tohatsu is
> the best outboard in the world--they were originally built for
> commercial fishermen (the smallest outboard to power a boat across
> the Atlantic is a Tohatsu 2 horse--they ran it 13-16 hours a day).
>
> The 9.8 is $1625 from: http://www.onlineoutboards.com/#
>
> The 9.9 4 stroke is actually a little cheaper ($1589) but according
> to (this gets interesting) the dealer's websites it weighs 114--but
> according to the official Tohatsu brochure I downloaded from Tohatsu,
> the minimal version should also weigh 81 lbs. I don't know why the
> discrepancy but 30 more pounds on the stern of a Micro could be
> significant.
>
>

FWIW, the Tohatsu 4-stroke 15 looks suspiciously identical to my Mercury
4-stroke 15.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] An option? Was Yamaha 9.9 high thrust price?


| I had a Tohatsu outboard on my keelboat 6-7 years ago, it was a 1987 model
| longshaft. It was really fine piece, ran flawlessly. Well constructed,
easy
| to work on.
| However, the importer in Texas discontinued some of the parts,
| lower unit seals, water pump impeller, prop shaft seal.
| The parts are still produced by Tohatsu, the importer refused
| to get them for me. I can see not keeping the parts in the US,
| but an outright refusal to help me in any way on a 10 year old
| product really ticked me off. BTW, Nissan is the same motor,
| same importer. I won't buy another one...
|
| Justin
|
|
|
| ?
|
|
| > Bruce
| > You might want to take a look at the 9.8 Tohatsu 4 stroke--it weighs
| > 81 pounds for the minimum version. Personally I think the Tohatsu is
| > the best outboard in the world--they were originally built for
| > commercial fishermen (the smallest outboard to power a boat across
| > the Atlantic is a Tohatsu 2 horse--they ran it 13-16 hours a day).
| >
| > The 9.8 is $1625 from: http://www.onlineoutboards.com/#
| >
| > The 9.9 4 stroke is actually a little cheaper ($1589) but according
| > to (this gets interesting) the dealer's websites it weighs 114--but
| > according to the official Tohatsu brochure I downloaded from Tohatsu,
| > the minimal version should also weigh 81 lbs. I don't know why the
| > discrepancy but 30 more pounds on the stern of a Micro could be
| > significant.
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
| - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
|

Peter-
I remember a while back you said you had a pattern that could
possible be borrowed for keel construction.
I searched and can't find that post.......micros abound in the
archives.
Could you explain to me the method you used for installing it and
how to contact you.
I've read so many different ways to install and build the keel i
don't know which way to venture. But the keel is something i want to
get behind me. Not worried about pouring the lead so much as having
the keel fair with the hull and getting it lined up straight.
Thanks,
Jason

Bruce-
I think you're on to something, maybe i'll finish at least most of
the inside before moving on to the keel.

Tell me more about the sagging cabin top. I saw in the pictures
where you had three sticks laminated togather......those things
sagged out? I'm tring to avoid steam bending if possible...what do
you think if i just planed the arch in the tops of the beams and
left the bottom square.....think that would hault sag?

My photos are at:

ofoto.com

username is jasonstancil@...

and the password is bolger......i think you asked, i've been posting
so much i'm not sure what i'm replying to.

So when you going to float that thing anyhow? Last i saw the only
thing lacking was the keel, which you already poured the lead for.

What about your sails and rigging? Did you make your own sails or
contract it out? Let me know when you get the rigging figured
out......too many ropes for my feeble mind.

Jason

Also,

I forgot to add that you can get parts for US made motors
in nearly every town in the country, my Japanese motors
(Tohatsu, Suzuki, Honda) have been
much more difficult to get parts for. I forget what we were powering
in this thread, but if I was cruising ICW, rivers, or Great Lakes, I would
feel better with US motor. The Japanese motor dealerships are more
common now than they were 10 years ago, but I sure like being able to
walk in the dealer and point to the part I need on the
page/microfiche/monitor
vs. describing the part I want to the parts guy over the phone @ the
dealer 300 miles away.

Justin

---
>
> I asked about the scrap and pallets, and they said I should help
myself.   The pallets are of lower-quality outer cuts,  12' rough
cut, 3" to 16" wide, 5/8 to 5/4 thickness.  There's also a bunch of
2x4 and 4x4 about 2' long, and probably a couple cartons of spacers,
slightly bigger than paint stirrers.   Plus the cutoffs, mostly less
than a foot long, 5/4 x 6 gorgeous heartwood.
>
> It seemed a crime to see rainforest lumber go to a landfill, so I
pulled some nails and got one pick-up load today, and may go back for
a couple more loads next week (and grab a couple manhole-cover-
moorings while I'm there).
>
> Can anybody suggest what to do with this stuff?   I thought it
might work well for a dock;  the little heartwood pieces might be
nice for cleats and blocks.
>
> Is there anybody in my area who would like some?  The price is
right!
>
> Curtis
  Welcome to the wonderful world of the salvaged boatbuilder. Keep up
the good work mate. the timber you describe is  similar to the
Australian hardwoods that we often use. Tools need constant
sharpening, and even replacing. If you are not going to finda use for
it now , store it, or ask aruond to see if someone else can use it.
Ive got a shed full of bits of clear Douglas fir that you probably
couldnt buy in Oregon for love nor money. they all come off rubbish
tips. cheers Paul.
  Kalgoorlie Western Australia
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i recieved a phone call today, from bloke in Brisbane (the other
side of Australia) . who has built a folding schooner in 100 days.
Quite a few interesting mods to. swinging centreboard, full lenght
flotation, fancy pocket luffgaff sails,bowsprit and roller furl jib.
looks like a giant racing skiff. very slick looking job for $AUS
8,000. It apparently featured in Australian Amatuer Boatbuilder. Must
have been a small feature, because I missed it. IT must havehade the
magic hex word that gets your articles shrunk. B*****.
If I can figure it out I'll post the photo to Bolger 10 the newphoto
site.
ON other news the schooner Waltzing Matilda was on the water today.
lots of little people forcrew . the weather was foul so I took out
groups of kids and taught them to use the O/B. I waited all day
fortrhe big kids to turn up so we could hoist some sails, but they
took their time and showed up when it was time to pack up so no
sailing.
  Next time out I intend to try rerigging her as a Standing lug
schooner,loose footed. I really am not happy with that massive boom
on the mainsail.
  . I feel really good tonight, sunburnt,windblasted, tired, and
happy.Ahhhhhhhhh!
cheers Paul

> I would
> feel better with a US motor.

Is there such a thing as a US motor? From what I understand, there
are perhaps two companies making low-power outboards in Japan (Honda
& Tomatsu) which are sold under a range of brand names: Mariner,
Nissan, Mercury, etc.

The OMC business which was still making it's own higher horsepower
engines was bought by a Canadian company, and who knows where the
motors are made. My own motor guy, a Mercury dealer, says that
dealers are fleeing from the OMC brands.

Peter

Hey Jason,

The hull's mostly complete.  A picture's worth a thousand words, so
I'll get a couple in the photos section of my profile...soon I hope.
I'm just a bit out in front of you, but I suspect not for long at the
pace you've set.

Mostly these days I seem to be doing more spring cleaning than
building.  Until the weather warms a bit, I'm going to get to the
interior, the masts/spars, and the keel.  I'm looking for some
information on pouring the lead also.  It doesn't look difficult, but
I'm curious about hanging it.  The plans don't call for 'through
bolting', and I can't help but wonder about strength.

By the way, your questions seem right on target to me.

Do you have a launch date targeted?

Cheers,
Jim


>
> Hey jim where are you in the process?
> Glad i'm not the only one doing this. I feel like a jack ass asking
> all these questions and fielding my ideas to these poor souls. But
> they already made the mistakes and got the job done. I really value
> the imput from these guys even if i totally disregard it and do
dumb
> things anyhow.
> Thanks Everyone,
> Jason

BOLGER 10?  I know about Bolger 2, 3, 4, 4photos, 4sale, and
coffee_lounge, but just how many Bolger groups are out there?

Just curious,
Jim

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "pauldayau" <wattleweedooseeds@b...>
wrote:
>  i recieved a phone call today, from bloke in Brisbane (the other
> side of Australia) . who has built a folding schooner in 100 days.
> Quite a few interesting mods to. swinging centreboard, full lenght
> flotation, fancy pocket luffgaff sails,bowsprit and roller furl
jib.
> looks like a giant racing skiff. very slick looking job for $AUS
> 8,000. It apparently featured in Australian Amatuer Boatbuilder.
Must
> have been a small feature, because I missed it. IT must havehade
the
> magic hex word that gets your articles shrunk. B*****.
> If I can figure it out I'll post the photo to Bolger 10 the
newphoto
> site.
> ON other news the schooner Waltzing Matilda was on the water today.
> lots of little people forcrew . the weather was foul so I took out
> groups of kids and taught them to use the O/B. I waited all day
> fortrhe big kids to turn up so we could hoist some sails, but they
> took their time and showed up when it was time to pack up so no
> sailing.
>  Next time out I intend to try rerigging her as a Standing lug
> schooner,loose footed. I really am not happy with that massive boom
> on the mainsail.
>  . I feel really good tonight, sunburnt,windblasted, tired, and
> happy.Ahhhhhhhhh!
> cheers Paul

Jim -
I'm glad i'm not the only one currently struggling through this
micro thing.
I'm on the same line of thought with you on the keel......not too
worried about it, i just want to get it behind me.
I'm looking forward to your pictures get 'em up will ya.
Not sure about my building pace, now the weather is getting nice
it's hard to stay in the garage and i feel bad running the table saw
after 8 pm, my neibors may kill me before i'm done.
I've decided to just finish out one compartment at a time. Stern
well, bow well, stowage bins, then the interior.....i actually
already started framing the bunks cause i wanted to stiffen the hull
up before i flip her back over to glass the bottom. Been dragging my
feet on that part as i'll need to let her sit untouched for a week
before i can prime it and flip it back over.

I'm hoping to do sea trials by the end of august but that will be
without an electraical system or water tanks. I'm setting the boat
up for a bit of micro cruising but just geting it on the water takes
precedent over fitting out the cruising gear as i won't take an
extended cruise until december. I'm a poor graduate student so
funding may slow my progress significantly, only a little bit of tax
refund left to plunder.

When is your targeted launch date?

Jason