> ........... Enjoy her. Does she have a name?
>
> Bruce

In theory, she has, TYYNE AALTONEN after my late mother. But I
found painting the registration plates so much trouble I haven't
got around to painting the name. Lazy, I know...


Sakari Aaltonen

> I'll bet part of the problem is the inherent difficulty in precisely
> maneuvering a shallow flattie with a lot of windage.

I really can't say; I haven't tried this with other kinds of boat.

>
> I'm trying to plan a business trip to Finland for later in the month of
> August, I'd love to see your boat if our schedules permit. (I work for a
> Finnish company, BTW).
>
> JB

You are welcome, of course. But note that I'll be on vacation for two
weeks starting Friday the 9th. I'll be going to the 'quiet lake' that
is mentioned on Duckworks; I'm building a small sailboat for this right
now (can't afford a trailer for the CC Skiff.)

By the way, the Duckworks text was not intended to be published.
It was just meant as an explanation why I wasn't prepared to
write an article...


Sakari Aaltonen

> Very Nice boat Sakari, and what a beautiful location.
> How many horsepower is the motor, and how fast does she go?
> DonB

Thank you. The engine is a 40HP four-stroke Yamaha. I don't
know how fast she goes; I don't have a measuring device.
She feels plenty fast.


Sakari Aaltonen

This has been an interesting couple of days. I am finishing my Bobcat and
yesterday evening I was facing a paint disaster. Blisters. Zillions of them
all over the deck of my newly painted Bobcat. A call to the Interlux
service line and a return call from the local International Paint rep gave
me the following information. Besides all the usual caveats about removing
the amine blush from epoxy coatings I have been given the reasons behind
some of the instructions on the can. I am using Interlux Brightside which
has served me well in the past. First the instructions say to sand the
Brightside primer until it is translucent. No reason given on the can. I am
told that the primer contains microballons which I was aware of however I
was not aware that microballoons take in water. The point of sanding to
translucency is that it is necessary to remove almost all of the primer
leaving only that which fairs the surface.  The second thing I learned was
that Brightside Polyurathane requires anywhere up to 2 weeks or more to
fully cure and that it is vulnerable during this period. In my case my
Bobcat was moved out of the garage several days after being painted-this a
week or so ago. The day before yesterday we had a gullywasher of a storm
which left standing water on the deck. By evening, where there was standing
water, there were pinhead sized blisters. This morning there were zillions
more. By three oclock this afternoon after baking in the hot sun they were
almost gone. There are only few left now.
Maybe I'll refinish the deck this winter but then again maybe a full cure
will prevent the re-formation of the blisters.
Bob Chamberland

Sakari, you have a very fine boat there. How long did it take to
complete? I hope you did not suffer a major loss when your boat was
vandalized. It is a shame that others show such little respect for
another persons labor and dreams.

I was under the impression that Finland was a particularly law
abiding country with no crime to speak of. I am curious about the
charges in your country to register your boat?

  John







--- In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> Hello,
> a photo of my Cabin Clam Skiff is at
>
> http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/projects/sakari/index.htm
>
>
> Sakari Aaltonen

--- In bolger@y..., "John Bell" <jmbell@m...> wrote:
> There has been at least one Micro built with a pointy bow. The
question is
> why? If the boat is properly trimmed, there is no reason at all for
the
> forefoot to ever get in the water. All the pointy end adds is a bit
more
> material and work for no performance benefit.
>

There is a difference between Bolger's general attempt to do cool
stuff like provide the most boat in 16', or two sheets length etc...,
and saying it can't be improved with more of something.  Micro isn't
the best candidate for enhancement, because you wouldn't gain
anything in WLL, unless you go wild with the bondo.  Still I believe
there is a wave out there somewhere that could break over the bow,
and I would prefer it wasn't flat when it happened.  Also, it isn't a
wind friendly end, something rounded would be a moderate improvement
on both counts.  I don't think anyone has built a Melted Micro, but
it would have to be faster.  It might be cheaper.

> Interesting to learn that gondolas are sharpies with asymmetric
> hulls! There's even a sailing version with a truly odd rig.
>
> This is a trippy, bitchin  site! (Uh oh, showing my age and early
> influences)

In fact, isn't the world just a sharpie... No man, the Universe is a
sharpie...

Sorry.

My micro, now given away, once did 10 knots with 4 adults in the
cockpit; obviously surfing
(http://www.carlsondesign.com/projects.html) off the wind.  On that
occasion, she creaked a little but seemed in control.

On another reach on another day, with kids up front in the cabin, we
had water pile up on the bow transom and pour in the lower step.  We
were on the lake, so we kept it up to see what would happen.  The bow
well filled until the second step began to pour in.  When the water
reached the plexiglass port to the cabin (4' of water?), we eased
off.  I really can't remember whether the small reacher we rigged was
up or not, but it's something we could duplicate on the right day.

Obviously, we could have reefed down or sailed up, but it was
certainly interesting enough that I thought I would remove the steps
at some point.

By the way, has anyone gotten their foot in the first step and
climbed on up?  I'm a wrestler and I couldn't.  Cute but unusable
feature.

So, the pointy micro is an interesting idea, the rationale of the
double-ender escapes me.  My Rozinante, a 28' canoe, is smaller than
a Catalina 22 below.  So, a double-ended Micro would be like, oh, a 9
footer?  While Rozinante is certainly beautiful, I hate to imagine
the 15' double ender micro, 6 foot wide. Ouch.

Gregg Carlson


>> There has been at least one Micro built with a pointy bow. The
>question is why? If the boat is properly trimmed, there is no reason
at all for the forefoot to ever get in the water. All the pointy end
adds is a bit more material and work for no performance benefit.
> >
>
> There is a difference between Bolger's general attempt to do cool
> stuff like provide the most boat in 16', or two sheets length
etc...,
> and saying it can't be improved with more of something.  Micro
isn't
> the best candidate for enhancement, because you wouldn't gain
> anything in WLL, unless you go wild with the bondo.  Still I
believe
> there is a wave out there somewhere that could break over the bow,
> and I would prefer it wasn't flat when it happened.  Also, it isn't
a
> wind friendly end, something rounded would be a moderate
improvement
> on both counts.  I don't think anyone has built a Melted Micro, but
> it would have to be faster.  It might be cheaper.

I'm sure you know this, but the sail number is the serial number of
the boat.  In the case of homebuilts that are raced, the class
association that governs the design awards the number when
you "register" your boat (pay the dues).  In the absence of a class,
what you need to do(?) is estimate or calculate the number of LM's
built and assign yourself that number plus one.  Maybe you could find
out the number of plans sold and estimate a completion ratio.

However, the more civic-minded thing to do would be to start a class
association for the Long Micro ;-}

Gregg Carlson


--- In bolger@y..., "dukepryer" <dukepryer@e...> wrote:
> Hello fellow Bolger builders/ sailers.
>
> I have just ordered the sails for my Long Micro, and the sailmakers
> asked me if I wanted a number on the sail.
>
> My question, is there an established protocol . i.e. LM ****
> SOMETHING.
>
> Has anyone put numbers or any identification on their sails.
> My original thought were to put LM and then the plan issue no, but
> there is no issue number on the plans.
>
>
> Any thoughts ?
>
>
> Andrew Pryer
> Victoria
> Australia

I only tried to once Gregg. I think because it's so narrow at the
bow, your arms can't spread sideways enough to stop you pivoting
sideways, unless maybe you threw yourself forward.
Either way, it felt so silly I never tried again.
DonB

> By the way, has anyone gotten their foot in the first step and
> climbed on up?  I'm a wrestler and I couldn't.  Cute but unusable
> feature.

>
> Gregg Carlson

.Oh darn you guys who are closer to the source and read MAIB first and
then leave oh so tantalizing hints.

HJ Who flew by the back side of Baranof today with Sitka on the other
side. The sun was shining, the wind was rippling a thousand sheltered
coves that are awaiting the Explorer and salmon were splashing
everywhere.


> ===
> BTW: Is anybody else around here excited by the Sitka Explorer in the latest
> issue of MAIB, a blend of Tahiti and Topaz?  I think it is really excellent.
> .

> How long did it take to complete?

About seven months - I started in December. But the boat is not
really complete. There are no lights, for example.


> I was under the impression that Finland was a particularly law
> abiding country with no crime to speak of.

Yeah, well, I suppose there are worse places...


> I am curious about the
> charges in your country to register your boat?
>
>  John

25EUR (about 25USD). Boats with outboards up to 20HP do
not have to be registered.


Sakari Aaltonen

A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks
interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.

  The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.

  I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
seriously looking at it as a future project.

http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html

You can't get much cheaper or simpler than a loop snugly fitted over the end
of the boom. <g>

http://www.boat-links.com/images/ClewBecket.jpg


On Fri, 02 Aug 2002 02:25:16 -0000, David Jost wrote:
> ...
> As for the rig, I just read in Herreshoff's The Compleat Cruiser, of
> a neat arrangement for securing the clew using a block of wood with a
> hole in it screwed to one side, and a wooden thumb cleat opposite.
> One ties a stopper knot in a line and passes it through a hole in the
> block (similar to the snotter blocks that are drawn on my plans) and
> then through the clew grommet and the around the thumb cleat, back
> through the clew and then around the boom behind the cleat, secure
> with a couple of half hitches.  Seems pretty simple! and cheap.

--
                          John <jkohnen@...>
                           http://www.boat-links.com/
            People say that life is the thing, but I prefer reading.
                             <Logan Pearsall Smith>

I'll be there, and now that I've learned that the bus doesn't stop at the
bus stop by the boat haven in the morning, maybe I'll even be at the CLC
booth at 10:00. <g>

COD, are you going to be there this year?

On Fri, 02 Aug 2002 15:41:35 -0000, Jamie Orr wrote:
> Good morning folks
>
> This is mostly to the west coast (of North America -- do I need to add
> that?) bolgerites.  The Port Townsend show is coming up, on September
> 6-7-8.
> ...
> Who else will be there?  For the last two years we've met up at the
> CLC booth at 10:00 on the Saturday morning, so I'll be there again,
> hoping to see the usual suspects, plus maybe some new faces.
> ...

--
                          John <jkohnen@...>
                           http://www.boat-links.com/
   I cannot help thinking that the people with motor boats miss a great deal.
     If they would only keep to rowboats or canoes, and use oar or paddle...
    they would get infinitely more benefit than by having their work done for
                     them by gasoline. <Theodore Roosevelt>

Paul that's the kind of quirky yet lateral thinking I like , how is
it pronounced , does it sound the same as the English 'U" .






> > Andrew Pryer
> > Victoria
> > Australia

Plans and Building Book are $975

Does that seem high to anyone else?

Roger S


> A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks
> interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
> project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
> Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
>
>  The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
> little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
> incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
> being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
> boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.
>
>  I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
> this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
> seriously looking at it as a future project.
>
> http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Yup! But don't hold that against her, she's a good looking boat
nonetheless.

I agree, she's a good looking boat, problem is, she has the
accommodation of a 25 footer.

Prices are in line with many other 40'+ boats if not a bit cheaper.

--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> Yup! But don't hold that against her, she's a good looking boat
> nonetheless.

The Pilgrim design has gone through several interesting evolutions,
starting out as almost a runabout open cruiser type.  I favor the latest
version, with a salty-looking pilothouse that seems to really fit the
hull.  The length is somewhat deceptive, as much of it is a hold aft of
the engine space.  We have the study plans, and my wife has spent many
hours playing with slight adjustments to the accommodations and the aft
deck (although it's hard to make sensible major changes; everything
seems to negatively affect the overall design).

If we can ever work out an interior we both agree on (we're liveaboards
on a 42' cutter), we'd likely build one.  Oh to find a Sabb diesel in a
rummage sale....

The plans aren't exorbitantly priced.  This isn't a skiff, and George is
a working designer.  If you check PB&F's pricing on larger and more
elaborate vessels, you'll find that they are in the same ballpark (I
think SA has explained inflation and cost-of-living to The Master).
Anyway, the Pilgrim design appears to benefit from some continuing work
by Buehler.  My USD $.02, anyway.

David Romasco

-----Original Message-----
From: announcer97624 [mailto:announcer97624@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 4:21 AM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.


A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks
interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.

The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.

I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
seriously looking at it as a future project.

http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html



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-334>

Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bolgerados, when I build the Bolger/Carnell Featherwind last year,
the rigging of the sail was simple. A couple of eyesplices, a snap
hood for the sheet and I was off. The Dobler, however, requires some
blocks. Perhaps someone here can help me decipher how to fit them to
work.

First, there is one block that fits on the end of the boom -- this is
not the problem. There is a second block that attaches to the sheet
horse. Here is what I do not understand. Does one attach the block
the sheet horse so that the wheel (I'm not sure what it is called)
attaches to the horse? But if I do this, the two part purchase on the
main sheet would seem to be compromised. If I am correct, then how
does one attach the bugger? Further, how does one run the sheet
through the blocks and where does the bitter end of the main sheet go
(I know one end goes in my hand, but I mean the other bitter end)?

Secondly, the snotter for the sprit arrangement includes a block with
an eye strap. My question here is, is the eye strap simply the means
by which the block is attached to the mast or would the snotter run
through both the block and strap and down to the cleat? The plans are
a little fuzzy on this point. I'm hoping someone here with more
experience can set me straight. I appreciate it.

Dennis

Hi Dennis, There is an element of guesswork about my answer but then I
havn't seen your rig. A question. Does the block on the end of the
boom have a becket? If so this is probably where your sheet is
attached. Then through the sheet horse (over the sheave), then back to
the block on the end of the boom and over the sheave (wheel) then into
your hand.  The block on the sheet horse is attached to the sheet
horse by means of the shackle. The bitter end is in your hand. By
definition the bitter end is the "loose" end. If there is no becket on
the block at the end of the boom them my guess is that you just attach
it at the end of the boom some other way, an eye strap or hole in the
boom. For the sprit arrangement my guess is that the eye strap is to
attach the block to the mast. If this rig works like the Teal the
snotter would be attached to the end of the sprit (is there a slot at
the end of the sprit?) by means of a stopper knot, then to the block
and around down to a cleat on the mast.
Bob Chamberland

--- In bolger@y..., "pseudodion42" <pseudodion3@a...> wrote:
> Bolgerados, when I build the Bolger/Carnell Featherwind last year,
> the rigging of the sail was simple. A couple of eyesplices, a snap
> hood for the sheet and I was off. The Dobler, however, requires
some
> blocks. Perhaps someone here can help me decipher how to fit them
to
> work.
>
> First, there is one block that fits on the end of the boom -- this
is
> not the problem. There is a second block that attaches to the sheet
> horse. Here is what I do not understand. Does one attach the block
> the sheet horse so that the wheel (I'm not sure what it is called)
> attaches to the horse? But if I do this, the two part purchase on
the
> main sheet would seem to be compromised. If I am correct, then how
> does one attach the bugger? Further, how does one run the sheet
> through the blocks and where does the bitter end of the main sheet
go
> (I know one end goes in my hand, but I mean the other bitter end)?
>
> Secondly, the snotter for the sprit arrangement includes a block
with
> an eye strap. My question here is, is the eye strap simply the
means
> by which the block is attached to the mast or would the snotter run
> through both the block and strap and down to the cleat? The plans
are
> a little fuzzy on this point. I'm hoping someone here with more
> experience can set me straight. I appreciate it.
>
> Dennis

To all those who have responded to my enquiry
regarding Black Skimmer - thanks for the info, it is
much appreciated. If I am able to buy the boat in
question I'll keep the group updated.

Andrew.



   There is a possibility - just a possibility - that I
might be able to purchase a used Black Skimmer
some<BR>
time in the next few months. If anyone in the
group<BR>
has sailing experience, especially coastal
sailing,<BR>
with a 'Skimmer' I'd be pleased to hear from them<BR>
regarding overall sailing characteristics.<BR>



http://digital.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Digital How To
- Get the best out of your PC!

Hi

I do not think a Pilgrim has been completed but several have been
started per yahoo group:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/backyard-boatbuilding/

Buehler gives about 10 plans with offsets in "Buehler's Backyard
Boatbuilding".

I have see a post that states he might do the same for Pilgrim in
"The TROLLER YACHT Book".  Is this true?

Mat

No offsets in "The Troller Yacht" for Pilgrim, just a short write-up and
some general arrangement views.  If he's getting a reasonable price for
the plans, why give them away?

David Romasco

-----Original Message-----
From: mat_man22 [mailto:mat_man@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 1:44 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.


Hi

I do not think a Pilgrim has been completed but several have been
started per yahoo group:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/backyard-boatbuilding/

Buehler gives about 10 plans with offsets in "Buehler's Backyard
Boatbuilding".

I have see a post that states he might do the same for Pilgrim in
"The TROLLER YACHT Book".  Is this true?

Mat



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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
>  I only tried to once Gregg. I think because it's so narrow at the
> bow, your arms can't spread sideways enough to stop you pivoting
> sideways, unless maybe you threw yourself forward.
> Either way, it felt so silly I never tried again.
> DonB
>

What about if you were bow to beach?  Would there ever be the reason
to climb up and on that way.  I imagine not.  The steps do act as big
scuppers.  To eliminate that feature but allow the mast to step, one
would have to close some stuff off, and then where do you want your
anchor and so forth (I am not sure I want it over there anyway).  The
whole detail have never struck me as a winner.

I must say, I was just babling on as though the double ender would be
longer/extended.  Of course I think the question actualy is two front
ends, which I think would have a bad effect on stability, and load
carrying.

Hi David

Thanks

(Reuel) PARKER MARINE  50' Power Dory

http://www.parker-marine.com/50dorypage.htm

Plans at $550 would seem to be a bargain.

Mat

OOPS, I goofed in quoting Bolger: looked it up in my archives last night:
the rig he recommended for easier mast-stepping on Black Skimmer was a
"Solent Lug", not a gunter -- see discussion on this rig in his "100 Small
Boat Rigs" book.

To quote from his letter to me Jan '91:

"...it seems to me, subject to more thought, that it would be possible to go
to a Solent lug rig, using the same sail and mast but with the mast
shortened quite a bit.  About twenty feet of the upper end of the luff would
be set on a yard, slightly less than half of which would project above the
new masthead.  The mast could be shortened about 9 1/2', to less than 22'
above the pivot.  The luff below the foot of the yard would be free,
lug-style, but the yard would come down almost vertically and not lash
around as in the usual lugsail.  There would be a little more weight aloft
but nothing prohibitive; reefed, both weight and windage would be lower.
The rake of the mast should be slightly reduced but this could be taken care
of at the step.  Such a rig might be worth thinking about, but, I should
say, not until you've had some familiarisation with her as she is."

no sketches of the rig, sorry; the sketches were his ideas about a pivoting
tabernacle...

Regards,
Wayne Gilham
personal e-mail: wgilham@...

Can any of you direct me to a discussion list for toy boats--
something like a Short Ships Society?  Have sailable model ships
been discussed on this list?  Small boats for two or three people to
fool with lots of strings and sail?

I am re-rigging a 14 ft. Drascombe lugger with three masts and a
bowsprit as a "French Lugger" like G90.  I'd like to see what others
have done, etc.

Bolger wrote about such designs often, but I haven't found a set of
messages here about such whimsy.

Hi Mat

I like the Parker design too, but the other half of the crew hasn't
warmed to it. Lots of room, simple construction and reasonable looks.
You mike also look at Karl Stambaugh's Redwing 40 Long Range, which is a
very polished plywood boat indeed....

http://www.cmdboats.com/redwing40lr.htm

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mat_man22 [mailto:mat_man@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 2:22 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.


Hi David

Thanks

(Reuel) PARKER MARINE  50' Power Dory

http://www.parker-marine.com/50dorypage.htm

Plans at $550 would seem to be a bargain.

Mat




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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

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