David - I'll want to hear about your scooner when you get it going!  I
assume you've seen mine at www.carlsondesign.com...

Say, your message first came to me to moderate - wondering - did you sign
up for the group, or did you send your message before signing in?

Gregg Carlson

At 08:20 PM 7/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Although the teal need a little more carpentery and paint, I've set my
sites on the Light Scooner, and have even found a source for swivel guns. I
figure one aft and one on each side (allowing two guns to be brought to
bear in any direction) should be sufficient I expect I'll have to make a
few modifications to the deck to take the stress of recoil. Any
suggestions, either for arrangement or bracing, would be welcome.
>
>TIA,
>
>David Ryan
>david@...
>
>
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First, thanks to Mr.Carlson for setting up this group.

Second, I've just glued on the last gunnel on my teal. A couple of thwarts and
she'll be ready for painting. I have to admit I'm rather stunned by both the
easy of construction, (I've only owned a skill saw for about 6 months,) and the
grace of her lines.

Although the teal need a little more carpentery and paint, I've set my sites on
the Light Scooner, and have even found a source for swivel guns. I figure one
aft and one on each side (allowing two guns to be brought to bear in any
direction) should be sufficient I expect I'll have to make a few modifications
to the deck to take the stress of recoil. Any suggestions, either for
arrangement or bracing, would be welcome.

TIA,

David Ryan
david@...


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Thanks Eric,

We recently had discussion as to whether anyone else had built the keel
version - I haven't seen one on the web.

I think the keel helps in rough water, but I really wouldn't have a point
of reference.  On the lake, it gets rough, with big motorboats, and I don't
have any trouble.  Light with a couple crew, it seems to skip across the
span of several waves, loaded down it can begin to pound a little.

Following waves aren't bad either.  Altogether, it wouldn't scare me,
although I would build it strong for all that and probably not let kids
drive on those days.  Light and square, it's a little "corky" from the side.

Gregg


At 02:26 PM 7/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Your boat looks great!   I've read Bolger's books and it is good to see
that someone tried the step sharpie design with Sneakeasy.   I like the
length of the boat and the ease to move this shape through the water.  Your
speeds with low horse power are impressive.     However, I'm curious about
the Sneakeasy's performance in a good sized chop.   I live in Bellingham,
Wa. and the bay can get rough.  I was hoping that it's length would allow
it to plow ahead through some 2-3 foot chop.   Another issue is following
seas.  I would guess that a racked transom is not an absolute necessity.
Bolger would probably be happy to hear that a design of his was altered to
meet the needs of the builder.    Any comments would be appreciated.
Thank you.  Eric.
>
>


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Micheal Wrote:
>I also found
>that the little imperfections I see while working on her are not
>apparent if you step back a few feet.

>I'm very pleased with the Tortoise which looks great despite the quick
>paint job

John Welsford, a New Zealand designer of small boats (including a modified
Glouschester Gull that I built) who says he has been inspired by PCB proposed
the following system:

500mm (2' ) boats: Boats built to this standard are prefect in every detail when
veiwed from a distance of 2' i.e. in close examination one can't see any flaws.

5.0m (15' ) boats:  These boats look good if you stand back a little. the sheer
is right, detailing correct and they will please the designer and anyone who
uses them.  The builder may feel that he/she could have done better but there's
always next time.  My boats fall into this category and I fear I will never be
able to produce a 500mm boat!!

50.0m (150' ) boats:  These arn't improved by distance, the designer will disown
the builder, and no-one will want to use the boat.  I have to admit I have built
a boat to this standard ( once, a long time ago, luckily a lady wanted a garden
planter and I was able to quit it ).

Regards - Foster Price


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Hi Dave,

Sounds like you've been knocking around this stuff for a long.

You've got a lot of good information on your page, including your
"controversial" ;-} theory of ethylene glycol for rot. Good stuff.

What are you building or sailing now?

Gregg Carlson



At 08:38 AM 7/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I first built FEATHERWIND in 1979, but fitted it with a lateen
>SUNFISH-type rig that Phil said was better than the designed rig.
>
>Then I built an OTTER II.  That was a good boat, though Phil badmouthed
>it because a couple of the protype builders sank theirs.  Too heavy and
>difficult to rig for easy trailing.  The lines are identical to
>FEATHERWIND.
>
>Next was a TORTOISE-a most satisfactory dinghy.  Unlike 8' prams you
>can reboard this from the water.
>
>Then ZEPHYR.  It was too quick for my advancing years.
>
>I built the GLOUCESTER GULL without a building jig, as Jim Michalak had
>years before.  I eliminated the midships frame by using a stiff gunwale
>as Phil did on WINDSPRINT.  The boat weighed 70#.  I was terribly
>disappointed in it because it blew all over the water.  I think it was
>too light, but Phil said you couldn't make it too light.
>
>I simplified FEATHERWIND's construction, used a Michalak single
>pivoting leeboard and sell the plans as the $200 SAILBOAT.  I pay Phil
>a royalty to say it is his design.  <http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell>
>
>Dave
>
>
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I first built FEATHERWIND in 1979, but fitted it with a lateen
SUNFISH-type rig that Phil said was better than the designed rig.

Then I built an OTTER II.  That was a good boat, though Phil badmouthed
it because a couple of the protype builders sank theirs.  Too heavy and
difficult to rig for easy trailing.  The lines are identical to
FEATHERWIND.

Next was a TORTOISE-a most satisfactory dinghy.  Unlike 8' prams you
can reboard this from the water.

Then ZEPHYR.  It was too quick for my advancing years.

I built the GLOUCESTER GULL without a building jig, as Jim Michalak had
years before.  I eliminated the midships frame by using a stiff gunwale
as Phil did on WINDSPRINT.  The boat weighed 70#.  I was terribly
disappointed in it because it blew all over the water.  I think it was
too light, but Phil said you couldn't make it too light.

I simplified FEATHERWIND's construction, used a Michalak single
pivoting leeboard and sell the plans as the $200 SAILBOAT.  I pay Phil
a royalty to say it is his design.  <http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell>

Dave


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I've built two of the instant boats so far, first Windsprint, and I
just launched a Tortoise today.  The Windsprint was overbuilt compared
to the plans as I used 1/2" ply for the bottom and used epoxy and
fiberglass cloth on the bottom and topsides.  I also used epoxy primer
and marine enamel paint.  The Tortoise was meant to be quick and dirty
as well as an experimental boat.  Instead of epoxy to attach the
framing to the sides, bow and stern I first used Siklaflex and later PL
Polyurethane construction adhesive which I prefered. I did cover the
chines with fiberglass tape and epoxy.  I sealed the ACX ply with
normal oil based primer and used latex house paint.

I've found, despite the materials and coatings used, the Windsprint
requires maintenance (touch up painting and varnishing).  I also found
that the little imperfections I see while working on her are not
apparent if you step back a few feet.

I'm very pleased with the Tortoise which looks great despite the quick
paint job and am not bothered by the sides flexing slightly while
rowing.  The time and expense saved while building her should outweigh
the potential shorter life.  Besides, building boats is addictive, and
I've found that building and using more boats is more fun maintaining a
single boat.


<3.0.1.32.19990716135220.0075b46-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=21
> Well, generally, I think overbuilding the Bolger small boats seems
easy to
> do. The light schooner, like most of them, seem lightly, cleverly
designed.
>  I sail on the lake, so 'offshore' safety just may not be necessary!
>
> Gregg
>
> At 11:55 AM 7/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >I'm also building June Bug, and I'm at about the same stage in the
> >construction process.  I have the sides assembled to the
> >frames/stem/transom, and the chines and gunwales installed.  Hope to
have
> >the bottom installed by the end of the week.  I'm building it right
out of
> >Payson's book, and haven't had any problems thus far.  I mounted the
chines
> >externally as a matter of preference on an 'instant boat', as it
further
> >simplifies construction.  I started the boat last weekend and have
put about
> >10 hours into the project so far.  I've been keeping a log of the
hours
> >labor involved and materials cost for future reference.
> >
> >I'm a very amateur builder; this is the second boat I've built.  I'd
> >previously built a Glen-L 10 (ply on frame sailboat).  It came out
nice, but
> >it was very heavy since I glassed the entire exterior, and it cost
alot more
> >than it should have, because of the amount of epoxy I used.  If I
could have
> >done it over, I would have used a less expensive glue for the
interior
> >framing, and would have only glassed the seams, and the bottom for
abrasion
> >resistance.
> >
> >Based on my last building experience, I'm trying to build June Bug
as a true
> >'instant boat' (cheap and quick) using common/inexpensive materials.
  I'm
> >using 1/4" exterior Luan plywood, pine framing wood, and wood
screws.  For
> >glue I'm using Weldwood resorcinol glue, and will use System 3 epoxy
and
> >fiberglass tape to glass the chines and exterior seams.
> >
> >I'd like to hear from those building June Bug, and would welcome
advice from
> >those who have built any of Bolger's instant boats.
> >
> >Best regards,
> >
> >John Sumrok
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: MIKE_VACANTI@...
> >[mailto:MIKE_VACANTI@...]
> >Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 6:03 PM
> >To: bolger@egroups.com
> >Subject: [bolger] New subscriber
> >
> >
> >     Hello,
> >
> >     I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief
description of my
> >     project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to
the
> >     frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces
cut out
> >     and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2
months ago
> >     but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2
small
> >     children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a
pencil
> >     or cleaning up with the shop vac.
> >
> >     I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only
use ss
> >     sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the
plans.
> >     I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to,
removing
> >     a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking
forward to
> >     hearing from other builders.
> >
> >     Regards,
> >     Mike
> >
> >
> >--------------------------------------------------------------------
----
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> >FREE travel in HALF the time with the NextCard Rew@rds Program.
> >http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/449
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> >
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> >
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Rob -

I don't have the book in front of me, but the console fisherman does it for
me. Is it about 18'?  The 9.8 might not be as much as you would want, but
what's the hurry?

I have built a Bee myself, probably too small. But, I've seen a stretched
Bee with a few more inches of freeboard which looked neat.

Of course, you could plan for your long shaft in any event.

Gregg

At 04:22 AM 7/17/99 -0000, you wrote:
>
>================[ eGroups.com Moderation : Unknown Sender ]================
>To accept or reject on the Web, vist:
>http://www.egroups.com/listman?listname=bolger&method=display_events
>/==========================[ Message to bolger ]==========================\
>From: rwweaver@...
>To: bolger@eGroups.com
>Subject: Which one?
>Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 21:21:54 -0700
>
>Greetings All - new subscriber here;
>
>  I'm looking for a design that will allow my wife and I to go fishing
>on the Potomac River/Ches Bay.  I already have a 9.8 hp LONG shaft
>outboard and would like to use this for primary propulsion).  Something
>in the 16-18 ft long range would be nice.
>
>I've already looked at *Boats with an Open Mind*, and *Build the New
>Instant Boat*, but nothing jumps out and says *build me* if you know
>what I mean.  Well, actually, lots of things say *build me*, just not
>for this particular boat.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>All the best,
>Rob Weaver
>
>
>\=========================================================================/
>
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Greetings All - new subscriber here;

   I'm looking for a design that will allow my wife and I to go fishing
on the Potomac River/Ches Bay.  I already have a 9.8 hp LONG shaft
outboard and would like to use this for primary propulsion).  Something
in the 16-18 ft long range would be nice.

I've already looked at *Boats with an Open Mind*, and *Build the New
Instant Boat*, but nothing jumps out and says *build me* if you know
what I mean.  Well, actually, lots of things say *build me*, just not
for this particular boat.

Any suggestions?

All the best,
Rob Weaver


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Well, generally, I think overbuilding the Bolger small boats seems easy to
do. The light schooner, like most of them, seem lightly, cleverly designed.
  I sail on the lake, so 'offshore' safety just may not be necessary!

Gregg

At 11:55 AM 7/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm also building June Bug, and I'm at about the same stage in the
>construction process.  I have the sides assembled to the
>frames/stem/transom, and the chines and gunwales installed.  Hope to have
>the bottom installed by the end of the week.  I'm building it right out of
>Payson's book, and haven't had any problems thus far.  I mounted the chines
>externally as a matter of preference on an 'instant boat', as it further
>simplifies construction.  I started the boat last weekend and have put about
>10 hours into the project so far.  I've been keeping a log of the hours
>labor involved and materials cost for future reference.
>
>I'm a very amateur builder; this is the second boat I've built.  I'd
>previously built a Glen-L 10 (ply on frame sailboat).  It came out nice, but
>it was very heavy since I glassed the entire exterior, and it cost alot more
>than it should have, because of the amount of epoxy I used.  If I could have
>done it over, I would have used a less expensive glue for the interior
>framing, and would have only glassed the seams, and the bottom for abrasion
>resistance.
>
>Based on my last building experience, I'm trying to build June Bug as a true
>'instant boat' (cheap and quick) using common/inexpensive materials.  I'm
>using 1/4" exterior Luan plywood, pine framing wood, and wood screws.  For
>glue I'm using Weldwood resorcinol glue, and will use System 3 epoxy and
>fiberglass tape to glass the chines and exterior seams.
>
>I'd like to hear from those building June Bug, and would welcome advice from
>those who have built any of Bolger's instant boats.
>
>Best regards,
>
>John Sumrok
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MIKE_VACANTI@...
>[mailto:MIKE_VACANTI@...]
>Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 6:03 PM
>To: bolger@egroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] New subscriber
>
>
>     Hello,
>
>     I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief description of my
>     project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to the
>     frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces cut out
>     and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2 months ago
>     but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2 small
>     children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a pencil
>     or cleaning up with the shop vac.
>
>     I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only use ss
>     sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the plans.
>     I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to, removing
>     a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking forward to
>     hearing from other builders.
>
>     Regards,
>     Mike
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Mike - I see - I'm in Tulsa, OK., sailing right now in Pensacola, Fl.
Well, my schooner (scooner) may not be as pretty as your June Bug will be!

Thanks for the comments.  When I get a chance, I'll put a link to the new
group on my website (does anyone know the best link of the ones I initially
gave to sign up on the group?)

Gregg



At 10:52 AM 7/16/99 -0700, you wrote:
>     I live in Roseville, CA, just east of Sacramento. I'm building the
>     thing in my garage. This is my first boat. I've wanted to build a boat
>     for many years but never had a place to build, the time to build and
>     the money all at the same time. I actually bought the plans from
>     Dynamite Payson in 1989. Someone else mentioned that they are at about
>     the same point in construction that I am and have about 10 hours
>     invested so far. I must be a bit slow because I have taken much more
>     time than that, probably 30 hours or so, but I haven't been keeping
>     track of my time.
>
>     Thanks for starting this list. I really liked your web page
>     documenting your Light Schooner project. By the time I'm done with my
>     June Bug I will have taken as much time as you took to finish your
>     Light Schooner.
>
>     Regards,
>     Mike
>
>
>______________________________ Forward Header
__________________________________
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: New subscriber
>Author:  Non-HP-ghartc (ghartc@...) at HP-Roseville,mimegw5
>Date:    7/16/99 9:23 AM
>
>
>Hi Mike - where are you building?  Gregg
>
>At 03:02 PM 7/15/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>     Hello,
>>
>>     I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief description of my
>>     project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to the
>>     frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces cut out
>>     and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2 months ago
>>     but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2 small
>>     children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a pencil
>>     or cleaning up with the shop vac.
>>
>>     I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only use ss
>>     sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the plans.
>>     I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to, removing
>>     a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking forward to
>>     hearing from other builders.
>>
>>     Regards,
>>     Mike
>
>
>
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Gregg,

      I live in Roseville, CA, just east of Sacramento. I'm building the
      thing in my garage. This is my first boat. I've wanted to build a boat
      for many years but never had a place to build, the time to build and
      the money all at the same time. I actually bought the plans from
      Dynamite Payson in 1989. Someone else mentioned that they are at about
      the same point in construction that I am and have about 10 hours
      invested so far. I must be a bit slow because I have taken much more
      time than that, probably 30 hours or so, but I haven't been keeping
      track of my time.

      Thanks for starting this list. I really liked your web page
      documenting your Light Schooner project. By the time I'm done with my
      June Bug I will have taken as much time as you took to finish your
      Light Schooner.

      Regards,
      Mike


______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: New subscriber
Author:  Non-HP-ghartc (ghartc@...) at HP-Roseville,mimegw5
Date:    7/16/99 9:23 AM


Hi Mike - where are you building?  Gregg

At 03:02 PM 7/15/99 -0700, you wrote:
>     Hello,
>
>     I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief description of my
>     project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to the
>     frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces cut out
>     and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2 months ago
>     but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2 small
>     children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a pencil
>     or cleaning up with the shop vac.
>
>     I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only use ss
>     sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the plans.
>     I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to, removing
>     a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking forward to
>     hearing from other builders.
>
>     Regards,
>     Mike



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TO: bolger@egroups.com
FROM:
Non-HP-ghartc/HP-Roseville_mimegw5////////HPMEXT1/ghartc#a#pipeline#f#com@cliff


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Hi Foster,

Well, spread the word and we'll see how many we can get!

There's no list, but Tim Fatchen's Light Schooner page has a lot of links
(he is linked from my page www.carlsondesign.com), and Craig O'Donnell's
Cheap page does too (he might be linked from Fatchen's page).

Gregg

At 05:07 PM 7/16/99 +1200, you wrote:
>Hello to those on the list, and thanks to Mr Carlson for setting it up -
its a great idea.  I hope it has a long and useful life ( for my own
selfish sake!!)
>
>Several years ago I corresponded with PCB ( a wonderful experience) about
the Solution 48 design but my courage failed due to the boats size - just
too big to build as a backyard project.  I am also more comfortable with
the concept of plywood boats as opposed to steel.
>
>My question - Does anyone know if PCB has designed anything on the same
double-ended straight ply panels system shared by Solution 48, Burgundy and
Bird-watcher in a 36' size or there abouts?
>
>Second question - is there anywhere a list of all the designs PCB has
produced (and obviously, still producing)
>
>Perhaps if one isn't avaliable this group could make it it's business to
do so?
>
>Regards
>
>Foster Price
>Southland, New Zealand
>
>
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Oh!  Have heard of it, but it sounds like a BIG project!  A destroyer with
a blunt bow!

At 05:43 PM 7/15/99 -0500, you wrote:
>No, I was thinking about Mr. Bolger's design, Cpt. Teach.
>80 foot sampam style hull.  Looks like a small destroyer
>escort (well sorta)
>
>R
>
>GHC wrote:
>>
>> Are you talking about a sneakeasy, Wyoming, etc?  I've built the former -
>> see my website www.carlsondesign.com
>>
>> Gregg Carlson
>>
>> At 04:38 AM 7/15/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> >I remember this a one sleek simple (if somewhat large)
>> >design.  Has anyone actually built one?
>> >
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Hi Mike - where are you building?  Gregg

At 03:02 PM 7/15/99 -0700, you wrote:
>     Hello,
>
>     I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief description of my
>     project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to the
>     frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces cut out
>     and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2 months ago
>     but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2 small
>     children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a pencil
>     or cleaning up with the shop vac.
>
>     I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only use ss
>     sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the plans.
>     I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to, removing
>     a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking forward to
>     hearing from other builders.
>
>     Regards,
>     Mike



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I'm also building June Bug, and I'm at about the same stage in the
construction process.  I have the sides assembled to the
frames/stem/transom, and the chines and gunwales installed.  Hope to have
the bottom installed by the end of the week.  I'm building it right out of
Payson's book, and haven't had any problems thus far.  I mounted the chines
externally as a matter of preference on an 'instant boat', as it further
simplifies construction.  I started the boat last weekend and have put about
10 hours into the project so far.  I've been keeping a log of the hours
labor involved and materials cost for future reference.

I'm a very amateur builder; this is the second boat I've built.  I'd
previously built a Glen-L 10 (ply on frame sailboat).  It came out nice, but
it was very heavy since I glassed the entire exterior, and it cost alot more
than it should have, because of the amount of epoxy I used.  If I could have
done it over, I would have used a less expensive glue for the interior
framing, and would have only glassed the seams, and the bottom for abrasion
resistance.

Based on my last building experience, I'm trying to build June Bug as a true
'instant boat' (cheap and quick) using common/inexpensive materials.  I'm
using 1/4" exterior Luan plywood, pine framing wood, and wood screws.  For
glue I'm using Weldwood resorcinol glue, and will use System 3 epoxy and
fiberglass tape to glass the chines and exterior seams.

I'd like to hear from those building June Bug, and would welcome advice from
those who have built any of Bolger's instant boats.

Best regards,

John Sumrok






-----Original Message-----
From: MIKE_VACANTI@...
[mailto:MIKE_VACANTI@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 6:03 PM
To: bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] New subscriber


      Hello,

      I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief description of my
      project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to the
      frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces cut out
      and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2 months ago
      but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2 small
      children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a pencil
      or cleaning up with the shop vac.

      I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only use ss
      sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the plans.
      I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to, removing
      a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking forward to
      hearing from other builders.

      Regards,
      Mike


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Hello to those on the list, and thanks to Mr Carlson for setting it up - its a
great idea.  I hope it has a long and useful life ( for my own selfish sake!!)

Several years ago I corresponded with PCB ( a wonderful experience) about the
Solution 48 design but my courage failed due to the boats size - just too big to
build as a backyard project.  I am also more comfortable with the concept of
plywood boats as opposed to steel.

My question - Does anyone know if PCB has designed anything on the same 
double-ended straight ply panels system shared by Solution 48, Burgundy and
Bird-watcher in a 36' size or there abouts?

Second question - is there anywhere a list of all the designs PCB has produced
(and obviously, still producing)

Perhaps if one isn't avaliable this group could make it it's business to do so?

Regards

Foster Price
Southland, New Zealand


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Anybody familiar with the 'Burgundy' design?


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No, I was thinking about Mr. Bolger's design, Cpt. Teach.
80 foot sampam style hull.  Looks like a small destroyer
escort (well sorta)

R

GHC wrote:
>
> Are you talking about a sneakeasy, Wyoming, etc?  I've built the former -
> see my website www.carlsondesign.com
>
> Gregg Carlson
>
> At 04:38 AM 7/15/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >I remember this a one sleek simple (if somewhat large)
> >design.  Has anyone actually built one?
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Hello,

      I just joined this list and thought I'd give a brief description of my
      project. I'm building a June Bug. I have the sides assembled to the
      frames, have installed the chines and have the bottom pieces cut out
      and joined with the butt block. I started building about 2 months ago
      but I only get a few hours here and there to work on it. My 2 small
      children will sometimes "help" me by marking cut lines with a pencil
      or cleaning up with the shop vac.

      I'm using "super-ply" plywood and WEST systems epoxy. I only use ss
      sheet metal screws instead of the ring nails recommended in the plans.
      I like having the option of removing the screws if I need to, removing
      a ring nail sounds like it would be a nightmare. Looking forward to
      hearing from other builders.

      Regards,
      Mike


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I have a few photos of construction now -- but nothing scanned yet.  Basic
hull is together -- bottom skids and seams are glass-taped, frame #2 is
beefed up (see below), bulkheads are epoxy-filleted (will get glass tape
soon)-- gunwales are milled and screwed/clamped in place.  Centerline deck
beams are in place.  Sail is sewn (Sailrite kit, no grommets yet).

I am very pleased with the look of the changes so far (sheer/gunwale, outer
stem and crowned decks) -- and that's what matters. :)

Phil Lea

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 1:27 PM
To: bolger@egroups.com

An understatement!  Let's see some pictures - I assume on Dardanelle...

Gregg Carlson

At 10:38 AM 7/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New
>Instant Boats".  Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
>(in my eyes):
>Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
>flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft).  Widen the current
>38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase).  Widen the other frames and
>transom proportionally.  Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
>the foredeck.  Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
>that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
>a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
>transom that is narrower at the top.  Built-in oar storage down
>centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
>strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web.  Attach
>leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie.  Move the heel of the mast
>forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
>some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of  board.  Construct
>step to allow some future adjustment.  Create watertight compartments
>fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
>camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
>gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
>- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
>and ~.9" aft.  Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
> Make a solid, round mast  with a 2.375" lower diameter.  Mast taper is
>proportionally similar to original.   Add a halyard, reef points and
>lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
>position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
>or general method of construction, save for the stem.  None of this
>costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
>Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
>
>It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
>modified Bolger June Bug.
>
>Phil Lea
>Russellville, AR.

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I have a small dinghy with the "leeboard ala Michalak" on it. It has about
10 degrees more leeway when the board is on the windward side. The tiller is
centerlined with the leeboard on the lee side, but with the board on the
weather side the tiller is about 10 degrees off.

My board has about 5% of the sail area submerged, it might work better with
more area underwater I guess... But I'm considering putting duel boards on
on it...

plea@... wrote:

> I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New
> Instant Boats".  Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
> (in my eyes):
> Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
> flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft).  Widen the current
> 38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase).  Widen the other frames and
> transom proportionally.  Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
> the foredeck.  Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
> that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
> a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
> transom that is narrower at the top.  Built-in oar storage down
> centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
> strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web.  Attach
> leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie.  Move the heel of the mast
> forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
> some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of  board.  Construct
> step to allow some future adjustment.  Create watertight compartments
> fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
> camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
> gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
> - gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
> and ~.9" aft.  Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
>  Make a solid, round mast  with a 2.375" lower diameter.  Mast taper is
> proportionally similar to original.   Add a halyard, reef points and
> lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
> position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
> or general method of construction, save for the stem.  None of this
> costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
> Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
>
> It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
> modified Bolger June Bug.
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, AR.
>
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An understatement!  Let's see some pictures - I assume on Dardanelle...

Gregg Carlson

At 10:38 AM 7/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New
>Instant Boats".  Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
>(in my eyes):
>Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
>flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft).  Widen the current
>38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase).  Widen the other frames and
>transom proportionally.  Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
>the foredeck.  Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
>that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
>a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
>transom that is narrower at the top.  Built-in oar storage down
>centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
>strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web.  Attach
>leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie.  Move the heel of the mast
>forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
>some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of  board.  Construct
>step to allow some future adjustment.  Create watertight compartments
>fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
>camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
>gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
>- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
>and ~.9" aft.  Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
> Make a solid, round mast  with a 2.375" lower diameter.  Mast taper is
>proportionally similar to original.   Add a halyard, reef points and
>lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
>position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
>or general method of construction, save for the stem.  None of this
>costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
>Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
>
>It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
>modified Bolger June Bug.
>
>Phil Lea
>Russellville, AR.
>
>
>
>
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I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New
Instant Boats".  Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
(in my eyes):
Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft).  Widen the current
38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase).  Widen the other frames and
transom proportionally.  Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
the foredeck.  Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
transom that is narrower at the top.  Built-in oar storage down
centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web.  Attach
leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie.  Move the heel of the mast
forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of  board.  Construct
step to allow some future adjustment.  Create watertight compartments
fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
and ~.9" aft.  Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
  Make a solid, round mast  with a 2.375" lower diameter.  Mast taper is
proportionally similar to original.   Add a halyard, reef points and
lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
or general method of construction, save for the stem.  None of this
costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.

It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
modified Bolger June Bug.

Phil Lea
Russellville, AR.




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Duckworks Magazine

Are you talking about a sneakeasy, Wyoming, etc?  I've built the former -
see my website www.carlsondesign.com

Gregg Carlson

At 04:38 AM 7/15/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I remember this a one sleek simple (if somewhat large)
>design.  Has anyone actually built one?
>
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No, it has a flat bottom and weighs maybe 400-500 pounds.  We hit 10 again
over the 4th weekend.

It has 266 sq.ft...

Gregg

At 09:35 AM 7/14/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Gregg, you say on your web page that your schooner "planes", with bursts
>to 10 knots... Isn't this a displacement hull? Or do the lines fall into
>the semi-displacement category?
>
>BTW, what is the sail area on the thing?
>
>
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I remember this a one sleek simple (if somewhat large)
design.  Has anyone actually built one?

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Gregg, you say on your web page that your schooner "planes", with bursts
to 10 knots... Isn't this a displacement hull? Or do the lines fall into
the semi-displacement category?

BTW, what is the sail area on the thing?


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