> In the mean time,I waste time(but not all the time!) on the web
> while Pesky reviews material for her Bar exams.

Boy, you think of everything. I would NEVER have thought of having an
in-house attorney to file briefs of habeas corpus when I need to
shake loose to go boating!

Peter

I just wanted to send you guys a note to be careful working with the
chemicals involved in boat building. In particular, here is a site
dealing with a substance we boat builders are always around, so we
should take extra precautions with it.

http://www.dhmo.org

-Richard Spelling
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma

>Stupid question: how does a 51' Wyoming fit on a 25' trailer?
>Is the axle at the very back of the trailer?  For that matter,
>how does a 51' Wyoming get legally trailered at all?

Kid of wierd how it's going to work but here goes a description.

First of all the trailer has a 20' bed on it and is built like a flatbed utility
trailer.  It has a 5' heavily reinforced tongue on it too.

The balance point for the Wyo is at about 32 feet but I need to have some of the
load forward for normal trailer loading.  Hence, the tandem axles will be
centered at about 35 feet.  There is 8 feet aft of the center for the tandem
axles so the boat will be supported back to about 43 feet.  I'll just let the
back 9 feet hang free.  (okay with PF&F).

The front of the trailer bed stops at 23 feet from the bow.   At this point 90%
of the Wyo's weight will be on the 20' foot trailer bed.  The tongue is another
5' forward and I used a bolt on, adjustable ball hitch.  I'll unbolt the ball
hitch and bolt on a 22' extention made of a 4" x 8" box beam, and bolt the ball
hitch to the far end.  There will then be two heavy angle irons stretching from
each front corner of the trailer bed and attached to the extension box beam
about 8' aft of the Bow.  This essentially will make up a triangle attached to
the front of the trailer, and it'll sort of look like a boat trailer now.

There will be about 1000 lbs load on the tongue total.  Heavy, but the the hitch
has a 2500 lb vertical rating, and the truck can easily handle it.  The 4" X 8"
box beam will not even know it's there.  The angle irons are to give it lateral
strength when turning.

Per PB&F, I'll use one support about 4 feet aft of the bow on bulkhead "A" to
support the Wyo front end and a support where the tongue extention bolts on
which will be at about 18' aft of the bow leaving a 14' foot unsupported span
for the Wyo. which is no problem.

I'm sure I'm not making for a good mental picture but it will work like any
other boat trailer.  Thanks to the flat run of the Wyo.

Until I need to haul the Wyo, I'll have a hefty utility trailer.

Jeff






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,

I'm new to the club, Have been messing about in boats for many years,
have liked Bolgers designs since the late sixties when I got a small
book of his stuff.

Here's something that's completely off topic but I ran into it this
AM.

In the spirit of killing spam and seeing what Yahoo is NOT doing
about it . . .Yahoo has signed everyone up for spam without your
permission. Yep without your permission or knowledge.
  This is a copy of a post . . . . . . .
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Yahoo has added a new "Marketing Preferences" section to everyone's
Yahoo account -- and set ALL the defaults so that you get spam.

To fix this invasive scheme, go into "Account Info/My account",

it's under your email info -- click that new "Marketing" link, and
set all the choices to no (unless, of course, you WANT spam).

There are two that are easy to miss, for snail-mail and
phone advertising, they're spaced WAY down from the others at the
bottom of that Marketing page. Hit "Finished" to save your
changes, both on the Marketing page and when you're returned to the
main Account page.
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Please pass this on. Feel free to quote and copy

Ha, Ha, Ha! What a hoot! Although it makes me wonder if people have
too much free time on their hands. Perhaps the folks responsible for
the website could help Peter L. build his Windermere.

Dennis Marshall

--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> I just wanted to send you guys a note to be careful working with
the
> chemicals involved in boat building. In particular, here is a site
> dealing with a substance we boat builders are always around, so we
> should take extra precautions with it.
>
> http://www.dhmo.org
>
> -Richard Spelling
> From the muddy waters of Oklahoma

Incidentaly, this guy LIED.

The motor bracket DOES NOT go "negative" as described. At the lowest
setting there is still "positive" rake. I.E., if mounted on a
vertical transom, the bottom of the motor would be aft of the mount
point.

Glad I bought from the OTHER guys!

Means I need to make an angled mount. Will cast a couple of wedges
out of Al...

--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> reply from www.outboardsonline.com
>
> Hello,
>
> Thanks for your email.  To answer your question, no the drive shaft
> would NOT be parallel with the transom mounting bracket.  Tohatsu
and
> Nissan motors are designed with slight "negative trim" which allows
> them to tuck under just a bit.  However, there is a mounting
> positioning pin which you could adjust to have the shaft positioned
> straight up and down with no variation either way. Please let me
know
> if you have any other questions.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Chris Collins
> National Sales Manager
> www.onlineoutboards.com
> --- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The motor mount cross board in the motor well on the Chebacco is
> > > offset on a bracket so the board is not vertical but raked aft.
> > >
> > > Why?
> >
> > Most sterns for outboards have at least a 10 degree rake back.
> Outboards
> > are built with this in mind.  I was told once that it's to allow
> the motor
> > help lift a boat on to a plane or at least keep her nose from
> digging in.
> >
> > My Tanaka worked okay on the Frolic with a vertical motor board
> because the
> > boat with it's rocker, would force the nose up.  You may have the
> same
> > thing with the yours.  Probably would not hurt a bit to build it
> verticle
> > especially on a sailboat with lot's of rocker.
> >
> > On flat skiff, I believe I would put it at the angle designed.
The
> Wyo
> > wants a 10 degree angle back on the transom.  I wouldn't want to
> make it
> > less on that long of a flat bottom boat, maybe more!.
> >
> > Jeff

>how does a 51' Wyoming get legally trailered at all?

Forgot to answer this one.  It generally can't unless it's on a fifth-wheel
trailer.

Permits are $15.00 to get it to the lake.  It's not over width or over length so
no lights, pilot vehicles, etc are need.

Standard trailer lengths unless fifth wheels are generally 35' to 40' in most
states, hence the need for the permit(s).

The Wyo is not a trailer boat, I'll just haul it to the lake for trials, then
the Missouri river for launching on the cruise.  A total of 500 miles.

Jeff


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

FYI, I added a few photos on my freebie web site.  There is a link at the bottom
to hit the trailer page.  This is a quick and dirty site setup that I'll start
posting building photos of the Wyo as I go along.

It's a very inexpensive 480X640 camera so have patience with the quality of the
photos but hey, it was cheap at Target!

www.dreamwater.net/cosailor

Jeff


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Only 12 days left !!!!

http://www.shortypen.com/boats/maib2002/

New Development -- some people have expressed an interest in spending
the night at the island in the middle of Lake Conroe, for more info look
at the web page under "Overnight on the Island".

Shorty

At the rate at which you tossed off the trai
ler, I can see the big boat is going to get done in
record time.


--- Jeff Blunck <boatbuilding@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>


<tt>
FYI, I added a few photos on my freebie web
site.  There is a link at the bottom to hit the
trailer page.  This is a quick and dirty site
setup that I'll start posting building photos of the
Wyo as I go along.<BR>
<BR>
It's a very inexpensive 480X640 camera so have
patience with the quality of the photos but hey, it
was cheap at Target!<BR>
<BR>
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor<BR>
<BR>
Jeff<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]<BR>
<BR>
</tt>

<br>

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<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe: 
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>

<br>
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>
</br>

</body></html>



______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca

Steve,

			 xxx
		 x
xxxxxxxx

Your removable tongue would be terrific, since my off the
street, winter storage is best at 16' over all.

I'd like to make the cut on the lower part of the tongue (
as above ),  but the Y is welded to the top corner of the
elbow.  There are many light boat trailers now that are just
a little square with a very long and unsupported tongue, so
I expect it could work to just saw that off;  yet I'm
reluctant to inflict damage on something so nice already.
Best would be to move the elbow with the welded tongue
forward and put back on a Y.

I'm saving your idea for later. The bird refuge I cruise
opens April 15th, and it's about all I can do right now to
pull everything together to be there then.

I'm going to fit some bunks to what there is, as is, for now.
BTW the trailer is exactly the right size now for one of
your genial, little Chuggers.

Thanks,
Mark

lewisboats wrote:
>
> You might not have to get it welded.  If the tube is
> hollow all the
> way, see if you can find a pipe of the correct dimensions
> (small
> enough to fit snugly inside the main tongue pipe). Then I
> would cut
> it right at the Y, leaving the 1" on the coupler part.
> Then I would
> insert the pipe into the tongue far enough back to clear
> the Y, drill
> and bolt together. Then drill and bolt the coupler to the
> other end
> of the pipe. This way, if you want to adjust the length of
> the
> tongue, all you have to do is pull the bolt behind the Y
> and relocate
> to another hole (s), further down the tongue, as far as
> the axle.
> Could be used on longer or shorter boats. A half to 5/8ths
> bolt has
> plenty of sheer strength for up to 800-1000 lbs. If going
> heavier, I
> would not use bolts, but weld instead.
> Is the coupler welded to the tongue or just bolted on?
> Most are
> bolted but if this one isn't, you could just replace the
> coupler and
> bolt it straight to the extention, they aren't very
> expensive ($20?).
>
> BTW, thanks much for the kind words about the site, you
> and Mikeeeee
> have me all a blushin'. You see, I tend to use a highly
> Modified and
> Detailed K.I.S.S. principal.........., and even SUCCEED
> sometimes, in
> spite of myself. I also tend to think the old addage "if
> it ain't
> broke, don't fix it" takes All the fun out of things. I
> also think
> that artwork boats are beautiful and all, but if I can
> whip up a boat
> in a couple of days, have it last a few years, and then
> get to build
> another one, I'm a happy man (I get to build another one,
> whoopeee!!).
> (to that effect, I use luaun or meranti underlayment
> ($6.50/sheet)
> for my own boats, templates and prototypes. I use exterior
> for
> everything else).
>
> Let me know what you come up with for the trailer, I'm
> interested.
>
> PS: if you go with the adjustable tongue, double nut the
> bolt with a
> lockwasher in between.
>
> Steve.

>Your removable tongue would be terrific, since my off the
>street, winter storage is best at 16' over all.

This is actually a very popular feature for boat trailers being manufactured.  A
normal 18' runabout, ski boat, etc will need a couple feet in the back for the
motor or outdrive and about 3' in front for trailer tongue.  A lot of boat
trailers have a dettachable or swivel tongue so the whole lot can fit in a 20'
or 21' garage.

I think it would be easy to do.  Check out a couple boat places and find out how
they do it.  Surf the WWW, you'll see pictures.


Jeff


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pangas are those 20-foot outboard skiffs you see in Baja California, casting
for roosterfish by the rocks or trolling for marlin out in the bluewater. The
most panga-like Bolger design I know of is the 18-foot Clam Skiff, but pangas
have a shallow vee and a higher bow.

Is there another Bolger boat that is a bit more along those lines, or someone
else's design that would be suitable for homebuilding by a gringo?

I live near Lake Ontario, and am also thinking about trailering down to the
Jersey Shore.

Wade Leftwich
Ithaca, NY

Just a reminder that we will be holding the first springtime Southeast
Messabout at Wind Creek State Park on Lake Martin in southeastern Alabama on
April 26-28, 2002.

See the link on my web page for more details.

Hope to see you there!

John Bell
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com/boatyard.htm

MicroBoaters:

I was just thinking that with a Micro at anchor with mizzen up and
main down, if you pulled the mizzen well to one side, it would make
the boat lie at an angle to the waves and perhaps the noise under the
bow would be reduced. On the other hand, if something as simple as
that would help, probably everyone would know and I would have heard.

So, has anyone ever tried it, and would it help?

Peter (not a Micro sailer, but interested all the same)

As you dougtless know, Bolger considers the Clam Skiff
etc... to be a V hull.  That is obviously a bit of an
exageration, but about 10 years ago I wrote him to see
what he thought of the Clam Skiff as a Bonefisher, you
know a flats skiff.  The question was sort of "do you
think I could get away with using the CS, or wouldn't
I be better off getting you to design for me a a real
Bonefishing skiff".  He was all for my just adding the
decks, consoles, rod carrying gear in a Clam skiff.

The point is that to a certain extent a  V hull is a V
hull, to a certain extent it is just an arrangement of
bouyancy.  As regards that, you can taylor the degree
of V in a CS by just adding an extra layer down the
middle, if you feel that is where the Bouy, should be.
  As regards the lack of V-ness, I think he regards
that as an advantage, in terms of construction, wear,
traillering, weight, bite in a turn, and so forth.


--- Wade Leftwich <wade@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>


<tt>
Pangas are those 20-foot outboard skiffs you see in
Baja California, casting <BR>
for roosterfish by the rocks or trolling for marlin
out in the bluewater. The <BR>
most panga-like Bolger design I know of is the 18-foot
Clam Skiff, but pangas <BR>
have a shallow vee and a higher bow.<BR>
<BR>

______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca

Dear Peter,
  It does not work.
Depressing the bow with a water bag so that the transom is immersed then
fitting a temporary vee
cutwater ahead of the transom does work. It is a bit of an effort.
Attached is my permanent solution on my Long Micro.
Regards, Gavin.
gavinlangmuir@...
----- Original Message -----
From: pvanderwaart <pvanderw@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:41 AM
Subject: [bolger] Micro bow noise (you should pardon me for bringing it up
again)


>
> MicroBoaters:
>
> I was just thinking that with a Micro at anchor with mizzen up and
> main down, if you pulled the mizzen well to one side, it would make
> the boat lie at an angle to the waves and perhaps the noise under the
> bow would be reduced. On the other hand, if something as simple as
> that would help, probably everyone would know and I would have heard.
>
> So, has anyone ever tried it, and would it help?
>
> Peter (not a Micro sailer, but interested all the same)
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This seems suitably Panga-like.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jim/brucesboat/index.htm

Mark

Wade Leftwich wrote:
>
> Pangas are those 20-foot outboard skiffs you see in Baja
> California, casting
> for roosterfish by the rocks or trolling for marlin out in
> the bluewater. The
> most panga-like Bolger design I know of is the 18-foot
> Clam Skiff, but pangas
> have a shallow vee and a higher bow.
>
> Is there another Bolger boat that is a bit more along
> those lines, or someone
> else's design that would be suitable for homebuilding by a
> gringo?
>
> I live near Lake Ontario, and am also thinking about
> trailering down to the
> Jersey Shore.
>
> Wade Leftwich
> Ithaca, NY
>
>                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>                        ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and
> punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip
> all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> of Service.

Bill,

If I hadn't had this gift, one of those would be the thing.
And an aluminum trailer, now you're talking!

Harbor Freight and EZ Loader appear to be two places for a
good small trailer sans the shipping charges. There may be
others, yet it looks like shopping in your town or
regionally is best.

Here's an excellent trailer source for EVERYTHING trailer,
located in the Southern tier.
http://www.championtrailers.com/
Just the paper catalog's an education.

You might get a kick out of the tres chic, wooden, Buckboard
Trailer in WB #s101 & 102. If I remember right, Richard
Jagels copied the idea from LF Herreshoff.

Lucky for us, in Oregon a boat trailer doesn't need a
license up to 1800 lbs.

Mark


wmrpage@... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/31/02 4:54:05 PM Central Standard
> Time,
> sbosquette@... writes:
>
> > Mark, I bought a utility trailer from Harborfreight, 860
> lb capacity,
> > I paid $149 last fall plus $5.95 for shipping I received
> it in three
> > days from California, I'm in Maine!!!!
>
> Well, this sounds like a real bargain!
>
> Last year I bought (on the internet) a very fancy aluminum
> trailer for my
> 1914 vintage B.N. Morris canoe . Didn't mind the fancy
> price - hey, its a
> very fancy boat and trailers designed for 18' long, 65#
> loads are not readily
> available on the used trailer market. (Shipped UPS from
> Ohio, the shipping
> costs were, to the best of my recollection an order of
> magnitude higher than
> yours, though.)
>
> However, the costs of registering a "modified" old trailer
> v. registering a
> new one might bear some consideration for penny-pinchers.
>
> To get the new trailer registered in good old MN, I paid
> sales tax,
> registration fee, local administration fee, license fee
> and perhaps a couple
> of other fees as well. It seemed like an awful lot of fees
> at the time, but I
> didn't want to piss off the already surly public servant
> who was processing
> my paperwork with any unwelcome inquiries. In any case, I
> was set back to the
> tune of approximately $125 to license the thing!!!
>
> (It boggles the mind to think that our current Govenor
> (Jesse "The Body"TM
> "Ventura"TM) won election on the campaign platform that
> the license fees for
> his Porsche were excessive!) (The second and, I believe,
> last, plank of his
> platform had something to do with PWC's  - canoes weren't
> in the mix,
> obviously.) Just goes to prove that the folks who settled
> MN (my ancestors
> included) were not the elite of the gene pool.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>

Another pretty day, still a small dearth of work at work. I
got to put the ElectroSprint up on the trailer so to fit
some bunks to keep it level.

Sticks out just 6' 6", and fits between the old, tall wheels
  much better than expected. Now, it cinches down by the
oarlocks at the back and all the way across three places
going forward with good shockcord. It feels very solid. Will have
plenty of battery support.

Next, bolt on the measured bunks and hang a lightset; I'm done!
Then I can finish fitting out the boat...but April 15th to
Sauvie Island, here I come.

Mark

Re: Chugger reference.
Working on the scale drawings, having trouble with figuring out the
lengths of the sides with anything other than the 4' wide bow. Too
many variables on the curves if narrower than 48". The sides will
have to be longer and the curves softer to achieve the same overall
profile. I think that the plans will be for the square boat with
instructions on how to loft the curves for the bow if a narrower bow
is desired. I would think that if an 18" wide bow is desired, an
additional 6-12" of material would be used to give the same profile.
This would offset the butt joints somewhat, but that is not
necessarily a bad thing. It might interfere with the side windows,
but those could be relocated or narrowed. Plans will include same 3
overhead lines for the bow as on the site. Sheets will be 8 1/2" X
14", Offsets for square boat only, Written build guide, and hopefully
photos of build (downloaded only). I will probably start laying out
the boat this week as Fisher10 is at a point where I need better
weather than is predicted for a while. I may get to the point of
cutting out the parts, but assembly will be a while. I only have
space for one 3D boat buildiing project at a time, and F-10 is about
to go 3D. Chugger may end up as an "assemble on site" boat as getting
a 6-7 boat fleet (I have 4 now, working on #5) past the wife is an
iffy (read impossible) proposition.(I did get her to tentatively
agree to the Shop attachment to the garage tho. Told her it was for
storage!). I envision Chugger as an Instant Boat type. Inside chine
log, Glue and Screw or Nail, light framing, maybe FG tape on the
outside seams and  a couple of coats of latex paint (Expensive wood,
fasteners, epoxy, and paint optional). I will, of course, put in less
than $100.00 for the prototype, should last 3-5 years, with
reasonable care. Boy, I really need to get a-hold of that guy with
the trailer now.

Regards: Steve.

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> Steve,
>
> 		 xxx
> 	 x
> xxxxxxxx
>
> Your removable tongue would be terrific, since my off the
> street, winter storage is best at 16' over all.
>
> I'd like to make the cut on the lower part of the tongue (
> as above ),  but the Y is welded to the top corner of the
> elbow.  There are many light boat trailers now that are just
> a little square with a very long and unsupported tongue, so
> I expect it could work to just saw that off;  yet I'm
> reluctant to inflict damage on something so nice already.
> Best would be to move the elbow with the welded tongue
> forward and put back on a Y.
>
> I'm saving your idea for later. The bird refuge I cruise
> opens April 15th, and it's about all I can do right now to
> pull everything together to be there then.
>
> I'm going to fit some bunks to what there is, as is, for now.
> BTW the trailer is exactly the right size now for one of
> your genial, little Chuggers.
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> lewisboats wrote:
> >
> > You might not have to get it welded.  If the tube is
> > hollow all the
> > way, see if you can find a pipe of the correct dimensions
> > (small
> > enough to fit snugly inside the main tongue pipe). Then I
> > would cut
> > it right at the Y, leaving the 1" on the coupler part.
> > Then I would
> > insert the pipe into the tongue far enough back to clear
> > the Y, drill
> > and bolt together. Then drill and bolt the coupler to the
> > other end
> > of the pipe. This way, if you want to adjust the length of
> > the
> > tongue, all you have to do is pull the bolt behind the Y
> > and relocate
> > to another hole (s), further down the tongue, as far as
> > the axle.
> > Could be used on longer or shorter boats. A half to 5/8ths
> > bolt has
> > plenty of sheer strength for up to 800-1000 lbs. If going
> > heavier, I
> > would not use bolts, but weld instead.
> > Is the coupler welded to the tongue or just bolted on?
> > Most are
> > bolted but if this one isn't, you could just replace the
> > coupler and
> > bolt it straight to the extention, they aren't very
> > expensive ($20?).
> >
> > BTW, thanks much for the kind words about the site, you
> > and Mikeeeee
> > have me all a blushin'. You see, I tend to use a highly
> > Modified and
> > Detailed K.I.S.S. principal.........., and even SUCCEED
> > sometimes, in
> > spite of myself. I also tend to think the old addage "if
> > it ain't
> > broke, don't fix it" takes All the fun out of things. I
> > also think
> > that artwork boats are beautiful and all, but if I can
> > whip up a boat
> > in a couple of days, have it last a few years, and then
> > get to build
> > another one, I'm a happy man (I get to build another one,
> > whoopeee!!).
> > (to that effect, I use luaun or meranti underlayment
> > ($6.50/sheet)
> > for my own boats, templates and prototypes. I use exterior
> > for
> > everything else).
> >
> > Let me know what you come up with for the trailer, I'm
> > interested.
> >
> > PS: if you go with the adjustable tongue, double nut the
> > bolt with a
> > lockwasher in between.
> >
> > Steve.

Gavin do you have any pictures of your Long Micro on the net. I have been
swapping hints and info with Trent Hensley ,also on this group. We are both
about the same stage in construction and would welcome any feed back you can
offer.

P.S  Is your Long Micro sometimes moored at Williamstown . Victoria , as I have
been told one has been spotted their and I seem to recall froma previous message
that you sailed on Port Phillip here in Australia.

Thanks Andrew Pryer
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Langmuir
   To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: 02 April, 2002 1:29 PM
   Subject: Re: [bolger] Micro bow noise (you should pardon me for bringing it up
again)


   Dear Peter,
    It does not work.
   Depressing the bow with a water bag so that the transom is immersed then
   fitting a temporary vee
   cutwater ahead of the transom does work. It is a bit of an effort.
   Attached is my permanent solution on my Long Micro.
   Regards, Gavin.
   gavinlangmuir@...
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: pvanderwaart <pvanderw@...>
   To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
   Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:41 AM
   Subject: [bolger] Micro bow noise (you should pardon me for bringing it up
   again)


   >
   > MicroBoaters:
   >
   > I was just thinking that with a Micro at anchor with mizzen up and
   > main down, if you pulled the mizzen well to one side, it would make
   > the boat lie at an angle to the waves and perhaps the noise under the
   > bow would be reduced. On the other hand, if something as simple as
   > that would help, probably everyone would know and I would have heard.
   >
   > So, has anyone ever tried it, and would it help?
   >
   > Peter (not a Micro sailer, but interested all the same)
   >
   >
   >
   > Bolger rules!!!
   > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
   > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
   > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
   > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
   01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
   > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
   >
   > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
   >
   >


   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   Bolger rules!!!
   - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
   - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
   - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
   - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
   - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve,

Not sure I understand what variables you mean.  What I see
looks to fit the end of any sheet that's 4' wide.
I'd think the hardest part of narrower bows is bending
'round the plywood, yet that will make it stiffer.

You have the plan and profile curves of the bottom well
matched. What about going 'round the edge of it w/ scale, if
that's what it
takes to get the length. Derive the true length of the
foredeck edge the last. ( or again, what am I missing? )

If it's just a matter of the sheet usage, then a 6" shorter
boat won't be a problem.

There's nothing wrong with this boat as total scow, might
be even better sometimes. That is a  great big piece of windage
though. And the smaller nose looks shippy. Complete lofting
and or a cardboard model might give
you yet another good idea.

Where do you find the time?
Mark

lewisboats wrote:
>
> Re: Chugger reference.
> Working on the scale drawings, having trouble with
> figuring out the
> lengths of the sides with anything other than the 4' wide
> bow. Too
> many variables on the curves if narrower than 48". The
> sides will
> have to be longer and the curves softer to achieve the
> same overall
> profile. I think that the plans will be for the square
> boat with
> instructions on how to loft the curves for the bow if a
> narrower bow
> is desired. I would think that if an 18" wide bow is
> desired, an
> additional 6-12" of material would be used to give the
> same profile.
> This would offset the butt joints somewhat, but that is
> not
> necessarily a bad thing. It might interfere with the side
> windows,
> but those could be relocated or narrowed. Plans will
> include same 3
> overhead lines for the bow as on the site. Sheets will be
> 8 1/2" X
> 14", Offsets for square boat only, Written build guide,
> and hopefully
> photos of build (downloaded only).

Brucesboat does look quite panga-like, except that doesn't have the high bow
that seems to be favored in the American tropics, both Atlantic and Pacific.

Very nice looking, and a whole lot lighter than the Clam Skiff. (I would be
keeping the boat on the beach or on a trailer anyway, and do not anticipate
dredging clams or hauling lobsterpots.)

For my "intended" use, which would include some offshore runs, it looks a bit
low in the water;  a Tolman Skiff, or a Tracy O'Brien Predator, or one of
those nice boats at www.bateau.com might be better.

But for the use the boat is actually likely to get -- putting around on
Cayuga Lake -- Brucesboat looks terrific.

Thanks for the tip.

Wade Leftwich
Ithaca, NY


On Tuesday 02 April 2002 04:15, you wrote:
>    Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 19:23:15 -0800
>    From: Mark Albanese <marka@...>
> Subject: Re: Panga (como en BC Sur)
>
> This seems suitably Panga-like.
> http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jim/brucesboat/index.htm
>
> Mark
>
> Wade Leftwich wrote:
> > 
> > Pangas are those 20-foot outboard skiffs you see in Baja
> > California, casting
> > for roosterfish by the rocks or trolling for marlin out in
> > the bluewater. The
> > most panga-like Bolger design I know of is the 18-foot
> > Clam Skiff, but pangas
> > have a shallow vee and a higher bow.
> > 
> > Is there another Bolger boat that is a bit more along
> > those lines, or someone
> > else's design that would be suitable for homebuilding by a
> > gringo?
> > 
> > I live near Lake Ontario, and am also thinking about
> > trailering down to the
> > Jersey Shore.
> > 
> > Wade Leftwich
> > Ithaca, NY

Thomas,

Have you built a Clam Skiff? If so, how is it in rough water? As you probably
know, the Great Lakes can throw up some nasty short steep waves in a hurry
when the wind starts to blow.

I got the Cabin Clam Skiff plans from PCB&F last winter, and do unroll and
study them from time to time. Maybe I should just build the thing (without
cabin) and find out for myself ...


Wade Leftwich
Ithaca, NY


>    Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:11:18 -0500 (EST)
>    From: thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@...>
> Subject: Re: Panga (como en BC Sur)
>
> As you dougtless know, Bolger considers the Clam Skiff
> etc... to be a V hull.  That is obviously a bit of an
> exageration, but about 10 years ago I wrote him to see
> what he thought of the Clam Skiff as a Bonefisher, you
> know a flats skiff.  The question was sort of "do you
> think I could get away with using the CS, or wouldn't
> I be better off getting you to design for me a a real
> Bonefishing skiff".  He was all for my just adding the
> decks, consoles, rod carrying gear in a Clam skiff.  

Viva la Panga! Not only do they use them in B.C, but also throughout
the rest of Mexico. Friends of mine in Puerto Angel go out as far at
30 miles for tibaron (shark).  They asked me if I'd like to join them
and I said  I wasn't feeling well  ;-)

A Bolger version? How about the Diablo Grande?

YIBB,

David



>Pangas are those 20-foot outboard skiffs you see in Baja California, casting
>for roosterfish by the rocks or trolling for marlin out in the bluewater. The
>most panga-like Bolger design I know of is the 18-foot Clam Skiff, but pangas
>have a shallow vee and a higher bow.
>
>Is there another Bolger boat that is a bit more along those lines, or someone
>else's design that would be suitable for homebuilding by a gringo?
>
>I live near Lake Ontario, and am also thinking about trailering down to the
>Jersey Shore.
>
>Wade Leftwich
>Ithaca, NY
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296

FBBB --

Would someone with a better picture of the I60 do me a favor and
forward the sail areas of each of the individual sail? I would be
very grateful.

YIBB,

David

C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296

--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> Viva la Panga! Not only do they use them in B.C, but also throughout
> the rest of Mexico. Friends of mine in Puerto Angel go out as far at
> 30 miles for tibaron (shark).  They asked me if I'd like to join them
> and I said  I wasn't feeling well  ;-)
>

One day some years ago I was fishing out of Pensacola in a 28-foot
sportfisherman, and one of the guys boated a small mako that wasn't quite dead
yet. We all sat on the bridge while the shark ate a couple of rods, and the
gaff, and a good chunk of the fighting chair. If we had been in a skiff we would
have had to jump in the water and let the shark have the boat.

Wade Leftwich
Ithaca, NY

We used a Knotstick on our first boat.  Inexpensive and worked fine - I'd
recommend it.   FWIW, wrapping its line in the prop affected its accuracy a
bit ;) .
Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Gibson" <glen@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 1:45 PM
Subject: [bolger] RE: knot meter
> On the subject of a knot meter, I don't remember anyone mentioning the
> Knotstick.  I've never used one, but at the price, might be a good buy.
> Simple...
>
> http://www.knotstick.com/
>
> Glen

I need to pick up some 14 foot boards and haul them home in the 6
foot bed of the Tacoma.

I'm going to make an arm that plugs into the reciever for the hitch,
and extends out about 3 feet. The part where the boards are being
held up will be in a line with the top of the tailgate and the bottom
of the bed behind the cab.

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions?