Michalak has some info on sizing keels and hydrodynamics on his site.
You need a MUCH bigger keel than centerboard, btw, and you will loose
windward performance.
--- In bolger@y..., micwal_va@h... wrote:
> I am toying with the idea of using a full unballasted keel in place
> of a centerboard on Bolger Featherwind/$200 Carnell Sailboat
> http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/sailboat.html .  I notice that
some
> small sailing boats like the Weekender use a keel in place of a
> centerboard.
>
> Are there any hard and fast rules for size for the keel?
>
> Since I need some rub strips on the bottom for beaching protection
> and bottom stiffness, I figure that a keel would not be all that
much
> more labor.

I am toying with the idea of using a full unballasted keel in place
of a centerboard on Bolger Featherwind/$200 Carnell Sailboat
http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/sailboat.html .  I notice that some
small sailing boats like the Weekender use a keel in place of a
centerboard.

Are there any hard and fast rules for size for the keel?

Since I need some rub strips on the bottom for beaching protection
and bottom stiffness, I figure that a keel would not be all that much
more labor.

Hi all -
        Check out the Gougeon's West System web site.  They sell an attachment
for your skillsaw that is appropriatly called "The Scarfer" that does the
trick.

                                Aloha - Jack Spoering


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you were to post them on the bolger2 group then the rest of us could see
them to.

Stuart Crawford

on 1/9/01 5:16 AM, george@... at george@... wrote:

> Jeff:
>
> How can I get them to you.
> Your email address is truncated by YahooGroups.  Can I send them to
> the files section?
>
> George
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
>> Pictures?  I would enjoy seeing yours.
>>
>> Jeff
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <george@j...>
>> To: <bolger@y...>
>> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:10 AM
>> Subject: [bolger] WaterVan
>>
>>
>>> My partner & I just completed what we believe to be the second
>>> WaterVan Built.  This design goes back to a group of (4) designs
> from
>>> 1995, and is a cousin (?) to Champlain and Inlet Runner.  We
> launched
>>> last weekend in northern New Jersey, and celebrated 19 months of
>>> Saturdays, many Sundays, and untold odd hours here and there.
>>> Results were pleasing, with speeds to 25 with (2) aboard, a new
>>> motor, and the wrong size prop.  Handling was better than
> expected,
>>> and the surprise factor for "standard" boaters on the lake was
>>> extremely high.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know of another WaterVan in the planning or
> construction
>>> stage, or perhaps even a completed one?
>>>
>>> George Mindos & Stefan Gutermuth
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bolger rules!!!
>>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>>> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>>> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
>>> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA,
>> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>>> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

With the help of Jeff Blunk, I have managed to inaugurate the Bolger2 Photo
Albums.  I took Shorty's organizational advice by making a 'Bolger Boats'
album, and then a 'Watervan' section in that.  The pictures are great!
Congratulations to George Mindos & Stefan Gutermuth.

Chuck

Another good product is Nome tap water. The shipping is high, but cost
at the source is low. This water comes from a spring so pure that they
do not have to use chlorine. High quality stuff. You will have to get
it down to Seattle on the barge before freeze up.

HJ



Jeff Blunck wrote:
>
> That's ok Rich, Artesian carries both!
>
>
>
> > Don't tell him to use the 2:1 mix water ballast. Everyone knows the
> > 1:1 water ballast is the best kind! Just read any of the books
> > published by the people who sell the water ballast, they will give
> > you the strait scoop!
> >
> > (sorry, couldn't resist)
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > > Mike,
> > >     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I
> > would
> > > definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to measure
> > > exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast kit is
> > > better than another?"
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > David Jost
>

Gougean(I know wrong spelling, to lazy to look up correct) Bros. make
a tool called the scarfer that goes on a skill saw, good for up to
3/8" plywood. A decent block plane is going to cost almost as much as
a router.

John Kennedy wrote:
>
> Before I go out to purchase a low-angle block plane, is there any other
> hand-tool which will let me scarf plywood accurately?   I have to cut a
> scarf edge on some plywood which is on the boat, then scarf new plywood to
> go into it.
>
> A bit tought to put the entire boat on a work-bench (grin), so it strikes me
> my choices are limited.
>
> I don't have (and can't afford) a router, so it's either a plane (of which I
> have several, but no low-angle block plane), a wide (or other?) chisel, a
> saw, or a disc sander.
>
> All I've ever read indicates the low-angle block plane as the tool of
> choice.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> John S. Kennedy
>
>

MDM timber's website lists two types of Brazilian Virola
plywood, the main difference being the more expensive
panels have virola cores and the cheaper stuff has a
"combi-core," whatever that means

Glue used is WBP, same as is used on Okume BS 1088, I am told.

I am going to buy a sheet and cheak it out.


Max

And finally, the best tech information comes from the Feds:

http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/TechSheets/Chudnoff/TropAmerican/html%20files/virola1n\
ew.html

Doesn't look all that promising to me.

  Chris Crandall 	   crandall@...      (785) 864-4131
  Department of Psychology  University of Kansas    Lawrence, KS  66045
   I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.

Also http://www.roblumco.com/virolaen.html:

		 VIROLA

             (VIROLA SURINAMENSIS)


                    ALSO KNOWN AS:

                              BANAK
                             CUMALA
                           CAOBILLA
                             SANGRE
                      PALO DE SANGRE
                             UCUUBA

            Uses: Interior trim, Furniture, Moldings, Concealed Parts
            (furniture), Concrete formwork, Dowels, Drawer sides,
            Framing, Kitchen Cabinets, Blind slats, General
            Millwork.

            The heartwood of this tropical hardwood ranges in color
            from a pinkish white to golden brown. The grain is usually
            straight and the wood is well known for its excellent
            nailing, gluing, and sanding properties. The wood carves
            easily and takes a stain very well. Virola is mainly
            produced in northern Brazil but is also readily available
            from Peru.

            First quality Virola is well known and accepted in the U.S.
            and Canadian molding and framework markets. Second
            quality Virola is widely used as concrete formwork
            construction material. Robinson Lumber Company has
            extensive experience in supplying Kiln Dried and Air
            Dried Virola to markets all over the world.

On Fri, 31 Aug 2001 cadbury@... wrote:
> A new type of plywood has shown up at the local Home Depot Marine
> Supply store; "Golden Virolla"  No markings on it and the guy in the
> store doesn't know anything about it.  Obviously imported.

See some stuff I got from my Google search, at:

http://www.theforbiddenfruit.com/articles/articles/hallpla/g81-90.htm

I'd be careful about inhaling the dust!!!!!


EFFECTS OF VIROLA SNUFF are felt within minutes from the time of initial
use. First there is a feeling of increasing excitability. This is followed
by a numbness of the limbs, a twitching of the face, a lack of muscular
coordination, nasal discharges, nausea, and, frequently, vomiting.
Macropsia - the sensation of seeing things greatly enlarged - is
characteristic and enters into Waik beliefs about hekulas, the spirit
forces dwelling in the Virola tree and controlling the affairs of man.
During the intoxication, medicine men often wildly gesticulate, fighting
these gigantic hekulas.

      CAUSE OF THE NARCOTIC EFFECT of Virola has been shown by recent
studies to be an exceptionally high concentration of tryptamine alkaloids
in the resin. Waik snuff prepared exclusively from the resin of Virola
theiodora has up to 8 percent of tryptamines, mainly the highly active
5-methoxy-N, N-dimethyltryptamine Two new alkaloids of a different
type,B-carbolines have also been found in the resin; they act as monoamine
oxidase inhibitors and make it possible for the tryptamines to take effect
when the resin is taken orally.


  Chris Crandall 	   crandall@...      (785) 864-4131
  Department of Psychology  University of Kansas    Lawrence, KS  66045
   I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.

Whoops!  Let me try that again...

http://www.sailmakerssupply.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Orr, Jamie [mailto:jorr@...]
Sent: August 31, 2001 12:13 PM
To: 'BolgerList'
Subject: [bolger] New website


This may be old news, but here's another website that sells sailmaking
supplies.  It looks to be smaller than Sailrite, and I haven't compared
prices in detail, but their lightweight coloured dacron is slightly cheaper
than Sailrite's.

BTW, I have found that by shopping around locally or by phone I can often
get significantly lower quotes than on the internet -- just something to
think about!

Jamie Orr


Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Good point James!
My sarcasm is retracted.
I would have no idea how to build a pump in/pump out system for water
ballast.  Other than, pull out cork,  diaphragm pump out.
Interesting problem.

david jost
   "still, i think that using heavy water from a Nuclear reactor may
have some advantages here"
the
> > > 1:1 water ballast is the best kind! Just read any of the books
> > > published by the people who sell the water ballast, they will
give
> > > you the strait scoop!
> > >
> > > (sorry, couldn't resist)
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > > > Mike,
> > > >     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I
> > > would
> > > > definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to
measure
> > > > exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast
kit is
> > > > better than another?"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > David Jost
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This may be old news, but here's another website that sells sailmaking
supplies.  It looks to be smaller than Sailrite, and I haven't compared
prices in detail, but their lightweight coloured dacron is slightly cheaper
than Sailrite's.

BTW, I have found that by shopping around locally or by phone I can often
get significantly lower quotes than on the internet -- just something to
think about!

Jamie Orr

I hate to say it, guys, but we all may be lightly flaming a man who really
doesn't understand that
water ballasting a boat involves the tanks and plumbing he has to build into his
boat. The method he
chooses to add the water to the ballast tanks might very well involve buying
pumps or valves. There
is a definite "where" to that information.
Imho, with a small smile.
Jim

Jeff Blunck wrote:

> That's ok Rich, Artesian carries both!
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <richard@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 11:09 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: wanted to buy - water ballast
>
> > Don't tell him to use the 2:1 mix water ballast. Everyone knows the
> > 1:1 water ballast is the best kind! Just read any of the books
> > published by the people who sell the water ballast, they will give
> > you the strait scoop!
> >
> > (sorry, couldn't resist)
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > > Mike,
> > >     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I
> > would
> > > definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to measure
> > > exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast kit is
> > > better than another?"
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > David Jost
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Buy a piece and put a chunk in the
> dishwasher.
>
> If it delaminates, you have some nice ply to make bookshelves out
of!
>

I will probably try boiling some.  If my wife finds it
in her dishwasher, she will "delaminate" me.

Thanks


Max

My two bits...

If the edge of the ply on the boat is accessible, you can use a hand saw --
I did this on the first scarf I ever cut, and was surprised how well it
worked -- you may want to clamp a thicker piece of ply to the thin stuff to
back it up while cutting.  I've also used a 1 1/2 inch chisel to finish up
scarf joints.  I think the low angle block plane is used as much because it
fits into one hand as for the low angle -- if you have any kind of
one-handed plane, you might try that before spending $.

On the other hand, its a good excuse reason to buy a new plane.

I think routers are overrated, it takes longer to set up a jig for accurate
cuts than it does to do the job by hand.

Jamie Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: John Kennedy [mailto:john.kennedy@...]
Sent: August 31, 2001 11:24 AM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Tools required to scarf thin plywood


Before I go out to purchase a low-angle block plane, is there any other
hand-tool which will let me scarf plywood accurately?   I have to cut a
scarf edge on some plywood which is on the boat, then scarf new plywood to
go into it.

A bit tought to put the entire boat on a work-bench (grin), so it strikes me
my choices are limited.

I don't have (and can't afford) a router, so it's either a plane (of which I
have several, but no low-angle block plane), a wide (or other?) chisel, a
saw, or a disc sander.

All I've ever read indicates the low-angle block plane as the tool of
choice.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

John S. Kennedy



Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Mike:

Bolger2 won't take my files due to size restrictions. Until I figure
it out, I can only send to you direct.  mkstocks@b???????

George

--- In bolger@y..., mkstocks@b... wrote:
> Hi -
>
> PLEASE send photos!!!!
>
> thanks.
>
> Mike
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., george@j... wrote:
> > My partner & I just completed what we believe to be the second
> > WaterVan Built.  This design goes back to a group of (4) designs
> from
> > 1995, and is a cousin (?) to Champlain and Inlet Runner.  We
> launched
> > last weekend in northern New Jersey, and celebrated 19 months of

With a steady hand a disc grinder can work.  Epoxy is forgiving with
thickener such as wood floor, cabosil, etc.  I'd also FG tape the dickens
out of it.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Tools required to scarf thin plywood


> Have no luck with block planes myself. Why don't you try a FG but
> joint?
> --- In bolger@y..., John Kennedy <john.kennedy@g...> wrote:
> > Before I go out to purchase a low-angle block plane, is there any
> other
> > hand-tool which will let me scarf plywood accurately?   I have to
> cut a
> > scarf edge on some plywood which is on the boat, then scarf new
> plywood to
> > go into it.
> >
> > A bit tought to put the entire boat on a work-bench (grin), so it
> strikes me
> > my choices are limited.
> >
> > I don't have (and can't afford) a router, so it's either a plane
> (of which I
> > have several, but no low-angle block plane), a wide (or other?)
> chisel, a
> > saw, or a disc sander.
> >
> > All I've ever read indicates the low-angle block plane as the tool
> of
> > choice.
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > John S. Kennedy
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Check the glue lines, see if they are dark.

Would bet it's exterior. Buy a piece and put a chunk in the
dishwasher.

If it delaminates, you have some nice ply to make bookshelves out of!

--- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
> A new type of plywood has shown up at the
> local Home Depot Marine Supply store;
> "Golden Virolla"   No markings on it and
> the guy in the store doesn't know anything
> about it.  Obviously imported.
>
> Nice looking stuff; real thin faces like
> luan.  1/2" has 7 plys, 3/4" has about 9 plies.
> few voids evident on the edges.
>
> Anyone know anything about this stuff, like
> if it is even "exterior??"  The store don't
> know!!
>
>
> Max

Have no luck with block planes myself. Why don't you try a FG but
joint?
--- In bolger@y..., John Kennedy <john.kennedy@g...> wrote:
> Before I go out to purchase a low-angle block plane, is there any
other
> hand-tool which will let me scarf plywood accurately?   I have to
cut a
> scarf edge on some plywood which is on the boat, then scarf new
plywood to
> go into it.
>
> A bit tought to put the entire boat on a work-bench (grin), so it
strikes me
> my choices are limited.
>
> I don't have (and can't afford) a router, so it's either a plane
(of which I
> have several, but no low-angle block plane), a wide (or other?)
chisel, a
> saw, or a disc sander.
>
> All I've ever read indicates the low-angle block plane as the tool
of
> choice.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> John S. Kennedy

A new type of plywood has shown up at the
local Home Depot Marine Supply store;
"Golden Virolla"   No markings on it and
the guy in the store doesn't know anything
about it.  Obviously imported.

Nice looking stuff; real thin faces like
luan.  1/2" has 7 plys, 3/4" has about 9 plies.
few voids evident on the edges.

Anyone know anything about this stuff, like
if it is even "exterior??"  The store don't
know!!


Max

Before I go out to purchase a low-angle block plane, is there any other
hand-tool which will let me scarf plywood accurately?   I have to cut a
scarf edge on some plywood which is on the boat, then scarf new plywood to
go into it.

A bit tought to put the entire boat on a work-bench (grin), so it strikes me
my choices are limited.

I don't have (and can't afford) a router, so it's either a plane (of which I
have several, but no low-angle block plane), a wide (or other?) chisel, a
saw, or a disc sander.

All I've ever read indicates the low-angle block plane as the tool of
choice.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

John S. Kennedy

Hi -

PLEASE send photos!!!!

thanks.

Mike


--- In bolger@y..., george@j... wrote:
> My partner & I just completed what we believe to be the second
> WaterVan Built.  This design goes back to a group of (4) designs
from
> 1995, and is a cousin (?) to Champlain and Inlet Runner.  We
launched
> last weekend in northern New Jersey, and celebrated 19 months of

Sure, load them to the Bolger2 group or email me at
boatbuilding@...

Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor


----- Original Message -----
From: <george@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: WaterVan


> Jeff:
>
> How can I get them to you.
> Your email address is truncated by YahooGroups.  Can I send them to
> the files section?
>
> George
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > Pictures?  I would enjoy seeing yours.
> >
> > Jeff
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <george@j...>
> > To: <bolger@y...>
> > Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:10 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] WaterVan
> >
> >
> > > My partner & I just completed what we believe to be the second
> > > WaterVan Built.  This design goes back to a group of (4) designs
> from
> > > 1995, and is a cousin (?) to Champlain and Inlet Runner.  We
> launched
> > > last weekend in northern New Jersey, and celebrated 19 months of
> > > Saturdays, many Sundays, and untold odd hours here and there.
> > > Results were pleasing, with speeds to 25 with (2) aboard, a new
> > > motor, and the wrong size prop.  Handling was better than
> expected,
> > > and the surprise factor for "standard" boaters on the lake was
> > > extremely high.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know of another WaterVan in the planning or
> construction
> > > stage, or perhaps even a completed one?
> > >
> > > George Mindos & Stefan Gutermuth
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

That's ok Rich, Artesian carries both!

Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 11:09 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: wanted to buy - water ballast


> Don't tell him to use the 2:1 mix water ballast. Everyone knows the
> 1:1 water ballast is the best kind! Just read any of the books
> published by the people who sell the water ballast, they will give
> you the strait scoop!
>
> (sorry, couldn't resist)
>
> --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > Mike,
> >     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I
> would
> > definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to measure
> > exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast kit is
> > better than another?"
> >
> >
> >
> > David Jost
> >
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Mike
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Jeff:

How can I get them to you.
Your email address is truncated by YahooGroups.  Can I send them to
the files section?

George



--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Pictures?  I would enjoy seeing yours.
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <george@j...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:10 AM
> Subject: [bolger] WaterVan
>
>
> > My partner & I just completed what we believe to be the second
> > WaterVan Built.  This design goes back to a group of (4) designs
from
> > 1995, and is a cousin (?) to Champlain and Inlet Runner.  We
launched
> > last weekend in northern New Jersey, and celebrated 19 months of
> > Saturdays, many Sundays, and untold odd hours here and there.
> > Results were pleasing, with speeds to 25 with (2) aboard, a new
> > motor, and the wrong size prop.  Handling was better than
expected,
> > and the surprise factor for "standard" boaters on the lake was
> > extremely high.
> >
> > Does anyone know of another WaterVan in the planning or
construction
> > stage, or perhaps even a completed one?
> >
> > George Mindos & Stefan Gutermuth
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >

Don't tell him to use the 2:1 mix water ballast. Everyone knows the
1:1 water ballast is the best kind! Just read any of the books
published by the people who sell the water ballast, they will give
you the strait scoop!

(sorry, couldn't resist)

--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Mike,
>     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I
would
> definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to measure
> exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast kit is
> better than another?"
>
>
>
> David Jost
>
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Mike

I think I'd go with the Artesian brand.  More reliable, pure, natural, than
other makes.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: <djost@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:53 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: wanted to buy - water ballast


> Mike,
>     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I would
> definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to measure
> exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast kit is
> better than another?"
>
>
>
> David Jost
>
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Mike
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Mike,
     Look into getting a kit to make your own water ballast.  I would
definately use one with a 2:1 mix, and get the pumps to measure
exactly.  The big question is, "Which brand of water ballast kit is
better than another?"



David Jost

>
> Thanks.
>
> Mike