At 07:58 AM 11/27/00 +0000, you wrote:
>Jon, I'm also a newbie and am curious as to the difference between the lantern
>and the dovetail tool holders. I read from a link given on this list lastnight
>about different type of carbide tooling and am now completely confused as to
>which way I want to go. My 10" Atlas has a tool holder that will only take 1/4
>tool steel cutters. From what I have seen on this site and reading from the
>links I take it I can buy a tool holder that is much beefier and can be used
>to hold 3/8 cutters which will let me use carbide insterts. Enjoying advise
>the experts are providing us newbies. Iceman

Larry;
          I turned a ring washer to replace the rocker washer in my
lantern,and set 3/8" carbide insert holders right on it.  Look at Figure 15
in http://pages.prodigy.net/thibaultr/Minnie_Tender_Truck_Wheels.htm to see
what I'm talking about.

Ron Thibault
North Augusta, SC USA
Builder Miinie #2
Captain R/C Combat Ship USS Arizona
http://pages.prodigy.net/thibaultr/

Why not make a reamer (half reamer) yourself? Cost is low and is good
experience.

Keep your steam up,

Terry Williams

----- Original Message -----
From: "robert B" <tugboatbob@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 7:06 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] gunsmith question


> Question:
> I have one of those short run   Marlin 32-20  model 1894 rifles they made
a
> few years back.
>
> A side from the fact that it won't extract, it wont eject, and the throat
is
> too short....(non existant ! ) It's an ok gun...if you like dust
collectors.
>
>
> Ok, my problem, I'd like to lengthen the chamber throat to about 3/16"
long,
> so to fit a full bore diameter 100 gr. cast bullet/mould which I presently
> have.
>
> I know that I could go buy a throating reamer for 32-20, but the price is
a
> little steep for just one use.
>
> A local gunsmith offered to do the job with a 30 cal throater, but it's
> pilot is .299  .
>
> And lastly, I was thinking that for about 15 bucks, I could buy a .312
> chucking reamer and deepen the throat myself.
>
> So my question is this, can a 30 cal throater work for a 32-20 ?
> 308 vs 312?  Or can I buy a .312 chucking reamer and do the job myself?
>
> Bob
>
____________________________________________________________________________
_________
> Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
>
>

I'm considering an Atlas 10" lathe but since this seems to be an odd
size I was wondering if its as good as the other Atlas machines
and also if parts are as available as they are for the other sizes.

Hello.
If anyone has such a chuck for sale, I look forward to hearing the
particulars.  Thanks.  Charles Shearon

Anybody found a reasonably priced DRO?  Maybe something that will interface
to a PC.  I have a mill application too.

Thanks,

Dave...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

unsubscribe

--- In atlas_craftsman@egroups.com, cshearon@t... wrote:
> Hello.
> If anyone has such a chuck for sale, I look forward to hearing the
> particulars.  Thanks.  Charles
Shearon


  Charles I just unpacked a Taig four jaw 3 1/4" dia with 3/4"-16
thread & Taig`s 3/4"-16 to 1/2"-20 threaded adaptor, (total cost
$66.00) Will let you know how it works out? The only reasion I~am
telling you about the four jaw chuck, is a good friend talked me into
using the four jaw chuck for round stock also. If interested I will
post the part numbers.  Just ordered a J&L three jaw 3" dia flat back
chuck. ON sell for $39.95, I`am going to make a face plate adaptor
for it. Will let you know about that chuck to?  Mike

Mike,
Please post info on 3 jaw on sale.  Where could I get an adapter
made?  Would I be better off, money wise, getting a 3 jaw that would accept
the type threaded adapter you used on your new 4 jaw.  Guess you can tell I
am new at this.  Thanks.  Charles



At 03:39 PM 12/1/00 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In atlas_craftsman@egroups.com, cshearon@t... wrote:
> > Hello.
> > If anyone has such a chuck for sale, I look forward to hearing the
> > particulars.  Thanks.  Charles
>Shearon
>
>
>  Charles I just unpacked a Taig four jaw 3 1/4" dia with 3/4"-16
>thread & Taig`s 3/4"-16 to 1/2"-20 threaded adaptor, (total cost
>$66.00) Will let you know how it works out? The only reasion I~am
>telling you about the four jaw chuck, is a good friend talked me into
>using the four jaw chuck for round stock also. If interested I will
>post the part numbers.  Just ordered a J&L three jaw 3" dia flat back
>chuck. ON sell for $39.95, I`am going to make a face plate adaptor
>for it. Will let you know about that chuck to?  Mike

Charles you will have to be careful buying any chuck for the AA
lathe, because of the 1/2"-20 thread size? the spindle can bend very
easy. I posted the same questions about the middle of October, 2000.
got a lot of great help, from some great people. check out the file
myaalath for some great info on your lathe. Will help you any way I
can. I plan to thread a piece of steel 3/4"-16 and mount it to lathe
and make the face plate to match  the three jaw chuck.  I will post
the J&L catalog # and page # and part # for the three jaw chuck, in a
flew hours.
mike
                                                                      -
-- In atlas_craftsman@egroups.com, charles shearon <cshearon@t...>
wrote:
> Mike,
> Please post info on 3 jaw on sale.  Where could I get an adapter
> made?  Would I be better off, money wise, getting a 3 jaw that
would accept
> the type threaded adapter you used on your new 4 jaw.  Guess you
can tell I
> am new at this.  Thanks.  Charles
>
>
>
> At 03:39 PM 12/1/00 +0000, you wrote:
> >--- In atlas_craftsman@egroups.com, cshearon@t... wrote:
> > > Hello.
> > > If anyone has such a chuck for sale, I look forward to hearing
the
> > > particulars.  Thanks.  Charles
> >Shearon
> >
> >
> >  Charles I just unpacked a Taig four jaw 3 1/4" dia with 3/4"-16
> >thread & Taig`s 3/4"-16 to 1/2"-20 threaded adaptor, (total cost
> >$66.00) Will let you know how it works out? The only reasion I~am
> >telling you about the four jaw chuck, is a good friend talked me
into
> >using the four jaw chuck for round stock also. If interested I will
> >post the part numbers.  Just ordered a J&L three jaw 3" dia flat
back
> >chuck. ON sell for $39.95, I`am going to make a face plate adaptor
> >for it. Will let you know about that chuck to?  Mike

I seem to remember a co. (with ads in SGN or Gun World) which rents
reamers.  I'd check them out rather than trying to make do in a firearm
application.  Even if you are successful with a make do, what it the gun is
involved in an accident/litigation at some point in time?  And you get
blamed?  Seems like it would be less uncomfortable explaining to a
judge/jury how you used the correct industry proceedure in this operation
(rather than the "well, I just found something that SEEMED to work!"). And
then verified the work with a chamber casting, compared to SAAMI
stds/tolerances for this cartridge.

I know, this worst case senario is unlikely to happen, but for the rel. low
rental costs of the reamer, why take the chance?  Even if you don't plan to
sell/trade the gun at the moment, what about the future?

While I don't know lots about firearms or legalities/litigations, I'd think
that you are unlikely to have problems.  But in today's society (ESPECIALLY
with regards to firearms), I think it pays to be EXTREMELY careful.

Another option:  How much does your local gunsmith want for the work?  That
way, you get the longer freebore'd chamber you want, and he assumes the
liability headaches.  Is this a good trade, a moderate priced job, for
relief/piece of mind from potential future problems?

Lastly, NO, I am not a gunsmith (professional NOR amateur).  Just another
reader with an opinion.

Lynn C.



                     "robert B"
                     <tugboatbob@ho        To:     atlas_craftsman@egroups.com
                     tmail.com>            cc:
                                           Subject:     [atlas_craftsman]
gunsmith question
                     12/01/00 12:06
                     AM
                     Please respond
                     to
                     atlas_craftsma
                     n





Question:
I have one of those short run   Marlin 32-20  model 1894 rifles they made a

few years back.

A side from the fact that it won't extract, it wont eject, and the throat
is
too short....(non existant ! ) It's an ok gun...if you like dust
collectors.


Ok, my problem, I'd like to lengthen the chamber throat to about 3/16"
long,
so to fit a full bore diameter 100 gr. cast bullet/mould which I presently
have.

I know that I could go buy a throating reamer for 32-20, but the price is
a
little steep for just one use.

A local gunsmith offered to do the job with a 30 cal throater, but it's
pilot is .299  .

And lastly, I was thinking that for about 15 bucks, I could buy a .312
chucking reamer and deepen the throat myself.

So my question is this, can a 30 cal throater work for a 32-20 ?
308 vs 312?  Or can I buy a .312 chucking reamer and do the job myself?

Bob
________________________________________________________________________________\
_____

Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com

Try this link
http://www.reamerrentals.com/directory.htm

lynn.chidester@... wrote:

> I seem to remember a co. (with ads in SGN or Gun World) which rents
> reamers.  I'd check them out rather than trying to make do in a firearm
> application.  Even if you are successful with a make do, what it the gun is
> involved in an accident/litigation at some point in time?  And you get
> blamed?  Seems like it would be less uncomfortable explaining to a
> judge/jury how you used the correct industry proceedure in this operation
> (rather than the "well, I just found something that SEEMED to work!"). And
> then verified the work with a chamber casting, compared to SAAMI
> stds/tolerances for this cartridge.
>
> I know, this worst case senario is unlikely to happen, but for the rel. low
> rental costs of the reamer, why take the chance?  Even if you don't plan to
> sell/trade the gun at the moment, what about the future?
>
> While I don't know lots about firearms or legalities/litigations, I'd think
> that you are unlikely to have problems.  But in today's society (ESPECIALLY
> with regards to firearms), I think it pays to be EXTREMELY careful.
>
> Another option:  How much does your local gunsmith want for the work?  That
> way, you get the longer freebore'd chamber you want, and he assumes the
> liability headaches.  Is this a good trade, a moderate priced job, for
> relief/piece of mind from potential future problems?
>
> Lastly, NO, I am not a gunsmith (professional NOR amateur).  Just another
> reader with an opinion.
>
> Lynn C.
>
>
>                     "robert B"
>                     <tugboatbob@ho        To:     atlas_craftsman@egroups.com
>                     tmail.com>            cc:
>                                           Subject:     [atlas_craftsman]
gunsmith question
>                     12/01/00 12:06
>                     AM
>                     Please respond
>                     to
>                     atlas_craftsma
>                     n
>
>
>
> Question:
> I have one of those short run   Marlin 32-20  model 1894 rifles they made a
>
> few years back.
>
> A side from the fact that it won't extract, it wont eject, and the throat
> is
> too short....(non existant ! ) It's an ok gun...if you like dust
> collectors.
>
> Ok, my problem, I'd like to lengthen the chamber throat to about 3/16"
> long,
> so to fit a full bore diameter 100 gr. cast bullet/mould which I presently
> have.
>
> I know that I could go buy a throating reamer for 32-20, but the price is
> a
> little steep for just one use.
>
> A local gunsmith offered to do the job with a 30 cal throater, but it's
> pilot is .299  .
>
> And lastly, I was thinking that for about 15 bucks, I could buy a .312
> chucking reamer and deepen the throat myself.
>
> So my question is this, can a 30 cal throater work for a 32-20 ?
> 308 vs 312?  Or can I buy a .312 chucking reamer and do the job myself?
>
> Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
_____
>
> Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
> http://explorer.msn.com

I think this is the place you are talking about

http://www.reamerrentals.com/directory.htm

Randy & Toni
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: lynn.chidester@...
   To: atlas_craftsman@egroups.com
   Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 10:06 AM
   Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] gunsmith question



   I seem to remember a co. (with ads in SGN or Gun World) which rents
   reamers.  I'd check them out rather than trying to make do in a firearm
   application.  Even if you are successful with a make do, what it the gun is
   involved in an accident/litigation at some point in time?  And you get
   blamed?  Seems like it would be less uncomfortable explaining to a
   judge/jury how you used the correct industry proceedure in this operation
   (rather than the "well, I just found something that SEEMED to work!"). And
   then verified the work with a chamber casting, compared to SAAMI
   stds/tolerances for this cartridge.

   I know, this worst case senario is unlikely to happen, but for the rel. low
   rental costs of the reamer, why take the chance?  Even if you don't plan to
   sell/trade the gun at the moment, what about the future?

   While I don't know lots about firearms or legalities/litigations, I'd think
   that you are unlikely to have problems.  But in today's society (ESPECIALLY
   with regards to firearms), I think it pays to be EXTREMELY careful.

   Another option:  How much does your local gunsmith want for the work?  That
   way, you get the longer freebore'd chamber you want, and he assumes the
   liability headaches.  Is this a good trade, a moderate priced job, for
   relief/piece of mind from potential future problems?

   Lastly, NO, I am not a gunsmith (professional NOR amateur).  Just another
   reader with an opinion.

   Lynn C.



                       "robert B"
                       <tugboatbob@ho        To:     atlas_craftsman@egroups.com
                       tmail.com>            cc:
                                             Subject:     [atlas_craftsman]
gunsmith question
                       12/01/00 12:06
                       AM
                       Please respond
                       to
                       atlas_craftsma
                       n





   Question:
   I have one of those short run   Marlin 32-20  model 1894 rifles they made a

   few years back.

   A side from the fact that it won't extract, it wont eject, and the throat
   is
   too short....(non existant ! ) It's an ok gun...if you like dust
   collectors.


   Ok, my problem, I'd like to lengthen the chamber throat to about 3/16"
   long,
   so to fit a full bore diameter 100 gr. cast bullet/mould which I presently
   have.

   I know that I could go buy a throating reamer for 32-20, but the price is
   a
   little steep for just one use.

   A local gunsmith offered to do the job with a 30 cal throater, but it's
   pilot is .299  .

   And lastly, I was thinking that for about 15 bucks, I could buy a .312
   chucking reamer and deepen the throat myself.

   So my question is this, can a 30 cal throater work for a 32-20 ?
   308 vs 312?  Or can I buy a .312 chucking reamer and do the job myself?

   Bob
  
________________________________________________________________________________\
_____

   Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
   http://explorer.msn.com












[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi:It seems to me that it is more prudent to get the gun to function
properly before doing any modifications.It should be made to feed and eject
correctly before anything else. If it hasn't been messed with it is possible
to send it back to marlin and they may/may not correct the function problem
under warranty. If it has been modified they can say that it is due to
modification and if they will work on it at all then they will charge for
there services.If you are going to deepen the throat then a proper size
throating reamer is relatively inexpensive ($20.00-$40.00).Another thing to
consider is that if it has one of the Marlin Micro-Groove barrels then you
should know that they were designed to shoot jacketed bullets and that they
are notorious for poor accuracy when shot with lead bullets. Dan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <lynn.chidester@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] gunsmith question


>
> I seem to remember a co. (with ads in SGN or Gun World) which rents
> reamers.  I'd check them out rather than trying to make do in a firearm
> application.  Even if you are successful with a make do, what it the gun
is
> involved in an accident/litigation at some point in time?  And you get
> blamed?  Seems like it would be less uncomfortable explaining to a
> judge/jury how you used the correct industry proceedure in this operation
> (rather than the "well, I just found something that SEEMED to work!"). And
> then verified the work with a chamber casting, compared to SAAMI
> stds/tolerances for this cartridge.
>
> I know, this worst case senario is unlikely to happen, but for the rel.
low
> rental costs of the reamer, why take the chance?  Even if you don't plan
to
> sell/trade the gun at the moment, what about the future?
>
> While I don't know lots about firearms or legalities/litigations, I'd
think
> that you are unlikely to have problems.  But in today's society
(ESPECIALLY
> with regards to firearms), I think it pays to be EXTREMELY careful.
>
> Another option:  How much does your local gunsmith want for the work?
That
> way, you get the longer freebore'd chamber you want, and he assumes the
> liability headaches.  Is this a good trade, a moderate priced job, for
> relief/piece of mind from potential future problems?
>
> Lastly, NO, I am not a gunsmith (professional NOR amateur).  Just another
> reader with an opinion.
>
> Lynn C.
>
>
>
>                     "robert B"
>                     <tugboatbob@ho        To:
atlas_craftsman@egroups.com
>                     tmail.com>            cc:
>                                           Subject:     [atlas_craftsman]
gunsmith question
>                     12/01/00 12:06
>                     AM
>                     Please respond
>                     to
>                     atlas_craftsma
>                     n
>
>
>
>
>
> Question:
> I have one of those short run   Marlin 32-20  model 1894 rifles they made
a
>
> few years back.
>
> A side from the fact that it won't extract, it wont eject, and the throat
> is
> too short....(non existant ! ) It's an ok gun...if you like dust
> collectors.
>
>
> Ok, my problem, I'd like to lengthen the chamber throat to about 3/16"
> long,
> so to fit a full bore diameter 100 gr. cast bullet/mould which I presently
> have.
>
> I know that I could go buy a throating reamer for 32-20, but the price is
> a
> little steep for just one use.
>
> A local gunsmith offered to do the job with a 30 cal throater, but it's
> pilot is .299  .
>
> And lastly, I was thinking that for about 15 bucks, I could buy a .312
> chucking reamer and deepen the throat myself.
>
> So my question is this, can a 30 cal throater work for a 32-20 ?
> 308 vs 312?  Or can I buy a .312 chucking reamer and do the job myself?
>
> Bob
>
____________________________________________________________________________
_________
>
> Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
> http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I have a old craftsman lathe I think it is from 1939 or 1940.  I have
found a website that depicts various models that were made by atlas.
I gathered it is made by atlas becuase it starts with 101.  I am
looking to get a new motor for this machine.  I need some assistance
on how to get the belt pully gear(need really a gear) of the old
motor I assume to put it on the new motor.  I am also looking for
ideas for a stand and I would love to chat with someone who is using
the same model number. 101.06241

Any insight or ideas would greatly help...

Thanks

Jeffrey Block
jblock@...

Gary.L.Wobig@... wrote:

> I'm considering an Atlas 10" lathe but since this seems to be an odd
> size I was wondering if its as good as the other Atlas machines
> and also if parts are as available as they are for the other sizes.

Nothin' strange about a 10 in Atlas. The older 9in is a real wierd-o, though. I
have been using mine TH1042 for about 45 years.


Best regards,

Jim Irwin

Hey, who are you calling a weirdo?  I love my 9", and it loves me........of
course it's a little jealous when I use the 6", but sibling rivalry is to be
expected, especially between "steps".  (9" is Atlas, 6" is Atlas/Craftsman)

Skip in Boston

Ps.  Have you noticed how many Skips we have on this list?

Sorry, Skip/Boston! Please convey my heartfelt apologies to you suffering little
9-er. I wouldn't hurt the feelings of a nice Atlas for nothin'. (we all think we
have size problems, don't we?!) I wish mine were longer! Another foot would have
been nice to have a (very) few times over the 45+ years I've had mine. Actually,
I expect yours would be a bit stiffer than mine :>) due to its smaller swing.
What I'd really rather have is a 12 to 14 in swing with at least a 1 1/2in hole
(spindle) dia.and 36 to 40 in C-C length. But that wouldn't be an Atlas, would
it?

But enough of personal problems, let's make chips!


Best regards,

Jim Irwin

The pulley grooves are really standard to the belts so it wouldn't be any
real problem to get a new pulley if needed.  You will often find a setscrew
in the bottom of the V-groove or a pin that needs to be punched out.  The
other type is a pulley that is pressed onto the shaft and these are often
identified by a woodruff key on the shaft and these may be pulled off easily
with the correct tools and the removal of any severe rust on the motor
shaft.  The motor can be almost any motor that can handle a continous duty
cycle and be of at least a 1/4HP (1/2HP or over recommended) and whatever
input power that you have in your area.  Some individuals use DC motors so
that they can get even more speed control.  Any industrial motor supply
could probably supply you with exactly what you need and probably also
replace/remove the pulley from the old motor if you talk to them nice.
Bob May
My new web space address is http://webu.wigloo.com/bobmay/ or
http://nav.to/bobmay
and my new email address is bobmay@...
Bob May

Jim Irwin said: "What I'd really rather have is a 12 to 14 in swing with at
least a 1 1/2in hole (spindle) dia.and 36 to 40 in C-C length. But that
wouldn't be an Atlas, would it?

Jim-

You can nearly have your wish, how about a brand new Atlas AT1540? 15"
swing, 40" C-C, 2+" spindle bore, that would work, wouldn't it?

Check:
http://www.clausing-industrial.com/Products/Lathes/Atlas/atl_cdgh_lathe.htm#
Features

Mark V.S. in Austin, TX

There has been numerous post on cutting keyways using a broach.

Long before I bought a set of broaches I used my lathe to cut
keyways.  In essence you will use a boring bar with the cutter
bit being turned 90 degrees in the bar and the carriage pushing
the cutting bit into your hole of the work that is in the chuck.
If you use the hand crank that Atlas provides on the carriage to
push the boring bar into the work you will break the little gear
that rides on the rack and maybe the pot metal housing that
supports the gear.  Not pretty trust me. Been there and done
that sort of experience.

Since the operation works so well I made an attachment that
hooks on the tailstock ram and by a lever and push rod takes all
the load off the carriage gears.  You can make internal keyways
easily and pretty fast.  By using the dividing head on the
headstock you can do splines I suppose.

This attachment to make keyways was written up in the March 1981
issue of Skinned Knuckles a car restoration magazine.  I can
send interested parties  2 Jpegs of the article if you want to
build your own.

Wally Skyrman  Central Point, Oregon

Wally, can you post the article in the egroups files section?

M. T. Sandford

At 11:18 AM 12/01/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>There has been numerous post on cutting keyways using a broach.
>
>This attachment to make keyways was written up in the March 1981
>issue of Skinned Knuckles a car restoration magazine.  I can
>send interested parties  2 Jpegs of the article if you want to
>build your own.
>
>Wally Skyrman  Central Point, Oregon

          I for one would be interested in the jpegs of the article in
question. This sounds like a very useful contraption to make and have handy.

          If you would, please send the files as attachments to me at
dti13@...

          Thanks in advance



	 Adam the Leg; Fun City; SST #911
	 '59 T120
	 '96 M900
	 '50's Craftsman Lathe

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the atlas_craftsman
group.

   File        : /machine shop.jpg
   Uploaded by : cshearon@...
   Description : yard sale cabinet

You can access this file at the URL

http://www.egroups.com/files/atlas_craftsman/machine+shop%2Ejpg

To learn more about eGroups file sharing, please visit

http://www.egroups.com/help/files.html


Regards,

cshearon@...

--- In atlas_craftsman@egroups.com, jblock@b... wrote:
> I have a old craftsman lathe I think it is from 1939 or 1940.  I
have
> found a website that depicts various models that were made by
atlas.

> I gathered it is made by atlas becuase it starts with 101.  I am
> looking to get a new motor for this machine.  I need some
assistance
> on how to get the belt pully gear(need really a gear) of the old
> motor I assume to put it on the new motor.  I am also looking for
> ideas for a stand and I would love to chat with someone who is
using
> the same model number. 101.06241
>
> Any insight or ideas would greatly help...
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeffrey Block
> jblock@b...

Jeffrey,
Posted a jpg (yard sale cabinet)I converted last weekend.  It has plow
bolt levelers screwed into hexnuts welded to angle irons. Have since
overlayed top with 1"alum and mitered 2"angleiron and welded corners
for a frame that drops over top.  Good luck with finding/making a
stand.  Charles

Couldn't get at the files. Said I had to sign in ????

--
Best regards,

Jim Irwin

Why not post the jpgs in the file section for all to see. I am the one who
started this thread on broaching. I had no idea it would generate so many
opinions. It's great

skip_evans@...


>From: Adam Reply-To: atlas_craftsman@egroups.com To:
>atlas_craftsman@egroups.com Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Cutting keyways
>Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 17:00:40 -0500
>
>At 11:18 AM 12/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: >There has been numerous post on
>cutting keyways using a broach. > >This attachment to make keyways was
>written up in the March 1981 >issue of Skinned Knuckles a car restoration
>magazine. I can >send interested parties 2 Jpegs of the article if you want
>to >build your own. > >Wally Skyrman Central Point, Oregon
>
>I for one would be interested in the jpegs of the article in question. This
>sounds like a very useful contraption to make and have handy.
>
>If you would, please send the files as attachments to me at dti13@...
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>
>
>Adam the Leg; Fun City; SST #911 '59 T120 '96 M900 '50's Craftsman Lathe
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
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At 05:35 PM 12/01/2000 -0600, you wrote:
>Couldn't get at the files. Said I had to sign in ????
>
>--
>Best regards,
>
>Jim Irwin

          Sure. Don't you have some form of log in at the egroups.com site?
I thought we all had to have one to subscribe to the list, but I may be wrong.

          If you do not have a login at egroups, its easy enough to make
one, and it costs nothing to do.



	 Adam the Leg; Fun City; SST #911
	 '59 T120
	 '96 M900
	 '50's Craftsman Lathe

To get to the WEBSITE, you first have to register with eGroups.

Do this at:
http://www.egroups.com

Once you do this, I believe eGroups will tell you which groups you
are a member of. Just click on atlas_craftsman and then click on
files.

Marty
Moderator

Hi,
Just to let you know, I have already done a mill/drill and am in the
process of doing my 12" Atlas.
The software is Steve Lindseys DRO40 series of programs and the encoders
are surplus rotary units.
The price of the software is great (Free:-}) and the encoders depends on
your scrounging experience. It will interface with any standard quadrature
encoder (even the 360 line per in unit out of an HP printer).

Presently, I am in the process of trying (haven't ever done C++ before) to
modify Steves coding to allow use on multiple machines by use of a switch
box and have it show which machine is being displayed on the screen and
also to make the program usable for various types of  parallel ports.  When
completed, it will be made available to all.

Cost, well in my case, I have less than $200 dollars in the whole DRO
including the $150 I spent for a used 486DX 100 to use for the project.

You can see what I have done by going to my web site
at  http://members.surfsouth.com/~axtein/dro/index.html

Will be more than happy to assist you in your efforts to come up with a DRO

Art


At 10:06 AM 12/1/00, you wrote:
>Anybody found a reasonably priced DRO?  Maybe something that will interface
>to a PC.  I have a mill application too.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave...
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OLDER THAN DIRT

Country Bubba

(Actually the inventor of Country and Bubba)

axtein@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In atlas_craftsman@egroups.com, AtlasTV48@a... wrote:
> Anybody found a reasonably priced DRO?  Maybe something that will
interface
> to a PC.  I have a mill application too.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave...

Dave,   Penn tools has a Mitutoyo 2 axis DRO advertised for about
$700.00 with everything. Bill C.