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Atlas spare parts from Clausing Service Center at (574) 533-0371
or http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm

Can anyone recommend a someone for casting small parts in cast iron and welding
of broken cast iron parts for antique tools?
Thanks

There's a foundry in Pennsylvania called Cattail Foundry that is known to pour
one-off's for the model engineering folks. I've seen their castings and they
know their stuff.

http://www.simmeth.com/wjs_1/cattail/index.htm

Jim Ash

-----Original Message-----
From: woolfgeo15
Sent: May 1, 2010 8:46 AM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Cast iron repair





Can anyone recommend a someone for casting small parts in cast iron and welding
of broken cast iron parts for antique tools?
Thanks

On Saturday 01 May 2010 06:46:24 woolfgeo15 wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a someone for casting small parts in cast iron and
> welding of broken cast iron parts for antique tools? Thanks

Cattail Foundry in Pennsylvania has done good work for me.  They don't do
repairs but can cast new from broken castings.  They're an Amish outfit so
don't expect the phone to be answered in fewer than 10-12 rings (if at all)

Cattail Foundry
Emanuel J. King
167 W. Cattail Road
Gordonville, PA 17529
(717) 661-9172

There are others on this link:

http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?Page=FoundrySources

Amen, to the bug. When you get it you’ve got it for life. It takes one to
know one and your description was right on!



   _____

From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Beatty
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 7:53 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe





Hey Bill, Sounds like he ought to drop the meds completely. More fun without
them.

________________________________
From: Bill Stietenroth <k5zty@... <mailto:k5zty%40juno.com> >
To: atlas_craftsman@ <mailto:atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, April 30, 2010 7:30:53 AM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe

Sounds like Dan is off his meds again.

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dan Buchanan <db45acp@yahoo. <mailto:db45acp%40yahoo.com> com>
To: atlas_craftsman@ <mailto:atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:24:55 -0700 (PDT)

Hello Frank.
My name is Dan.
This is my story.
I am a Lathoholic, swarf maker and machine head.
Lathes are my particular persuasion.
I have just achieved the humble ranking of Tinkerer, par excellence.
I am working toward becoming a scholar and virtuoso of fine lathery.
Â
Welcome, to an amazing resource of indoctrination for beginners, perpetual
students of lathe theory, co-dependent and chronic users, as well as Grand
Masters of the great and mighty craft. Â
There have been genuine theraputic results sought for, and achieved herein.

I speak from personal experience.
Â
If you're tired now, wait until the lathe bug bites you, (hopefully not).
Â
You will slowly begin to realize, experience and appreciate the sculptured,

working, works of art they are.
You might find yourself up early, or the middle of the night, going to the
shop just to see it. Cleaning it before breakfast, wiping it down, blowing
away any spec of dust that dares to have found its way to her.
You'll stand back and look at it, taking it all in at once.Your eyes follow
the curves of the smooth, painted surfaces to the points where they meet at
the polished and gleaming bedrails.
You see the glint and sparkle in the bright, chrome plating of her
handwheels, and curvaceous shapely handles.
Yes. Those handles.
No other lathe has handles that fit your hands and fingers like these
lathes.
They just ..."fit".
They turn so smooth and concentric and they are true to you.
Your lathe will be Loyal. Forgiving.
Willing to give you better than you hope to deserve, if you will just treat
'em right.
It''ll be as high on your list of loves as your favorite gun, horse or dog.
Â
Or computer. Another bad habit.
Â
Anyway, there's some great stuff here and friendly, gentlemanly folk very
willing to help.
I have not witnessed an over-inflated ego's (other than my own).
And you won't have to ever ask if it's OK to ask a stupid question, the
answer is NO.
Because I already did it.
Â
And so, here I lurk, the unofficial group jester.
Â
-Dan

--- On Thu, 4/29/10, beatty.frank <beatty.frank@
<mailto:beatty.frank%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com> wrote:

From: beatty.frank <beatty.frank@ <mailto:beatty.frank%40yahoo.com>
yahoo.com>
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
To: atlas_craftsman@ <mailto:atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2010, 5:20 PM

Â

Sorry I took so long to reply. I drive 78 miles to work and then 78 home. I
usually just sleep. I do know some, but I don't know about these small
lathes. I also need to learn how to improvise. I don't have somebody's tool
room to raid anymore. Every journeyman I have ever met has a different way
to drill a hole, and I found out you can never drill a hole the same way
twice. Thanks for the welcome Garlinghouse.

--- In atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com, "L. Garlinghouse" <lhghouse@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Welcome aboard. Doubtful that I can tell you anything you don't already
know but I may be able to help you regain some of your lost arrogance.
>
> L.H. Garlinghouse
> Arkansas USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank Beatty
> To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:17 PM
> Subject: [atlas_craftsman] new member w/101-07403 lathe
>
>
>
> Hi folks! This is my first time in this sort of environment. I just got an
old Craftsman 12" x 42" O.A.L. in good shape from my boss. . . . <<snipp
snipp>>
>
> . . . . I like the fact that you folks appreciate making chips. I have
been out of tooling long enough to have lost most of my arrogance and I
suppose some of you guys can help me with the rest. I really miss having a
lathe to spin up a punch or driver for one of my bike or hot rod projects. I
suppose I can stoop to actually making stuff also. I'm really lazy, that's
why I
> like having a lathe. Any how I'm old enough to answer to my name if you
call me out. Just call me Frank.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

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yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

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<http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi>
systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
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------------------------------------

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yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
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yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

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<http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi>
systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@ <mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo>
pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I added a photo album just now named: Value of model TH42, serial No. 054748.  I
am going to post this lathe on ebay Sunday evening if anyone is interested.  I
live in Minneapolis, MN.  Any info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Sky

I'm adrift in the confusing land of collets.

For my Craftsman 101.07403 lathe I may want to use 5c collets for turning fly
rod ferrules. I'll be turning small diameter tubing that requires extreme
precision.

I have a very nice 4 jaw chuck that I have never used..I  always go to the three
jaw for work that doesnt have to be re-chucked.

My question is, could I purchase a square collet block with closer for 5c
collets..Im seeing a price of $35 on Amazon...and then "dial in" the closer to
dead nuts and just leave it there and make my 4 jaw chuck into a dedicated 5c
collet chuck?

Or am I just completely not understanding how to set up for collets. I'm on a
TIGHT budget...I cant be spending hundreds of dollars to "do it right".

Thanks for everyone's help ...this is a great forum...



--- On Fri, 4/30/10, Dan Buchanan <db45acp@...> wrote:

From: Dan Buchanan <db45acp@...>
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 10:04 PM

My sentiments, exactly!

--- On Fri, 4/30/10, Frank Beatty <beatty.frank@...> wrote:


From: Frank Beatty <beatty.frank@...>
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 6:53 PM


 



Hey Bill, Sounds like he ought to drop the meds completely. More fun without
them.

____________ _________ _________ __
From: Bill Stietenroth <k5zty@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Fri, April 30, 2010 7:30:53 AM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe

Sounds like Dan is off his meds again.

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dan Buchanan <db45acp@yahoo. com>
To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:24:55 -0700 (PDT)

Hello Frank.
My name is Dan.
This is my story.
I am a Lathoholic, swarf maker and machine head.
Lathes are my particular persuasion.
I have just achieved the humble ranking of Tinkerer, par excellence.
I am working toward becoming a scholar and virtuoso of fine lathery.
 
Welcome, to an amazing resource of indoctrination for beginners, perpetual
students of lathe theory, co-dependent and chronic users, as well as Grand
Masters of the great and mighty craft.  
There have been genuine theraputic results sought for, and achieved herein.
I speak from personal experience.
 
If you're tired now, wait until the lathe bug bites you, (hopefully not).
 
You will slowly begin to realize, experience and appreciate the sculptured,
working, works of art they are.
You might find yourself up early, or the middle of the night, going to the
shop just to see it. Cleaning it before breakfast, wiping it down, blowing away
any spec of dust that dares to have found its way to her.
You'll stand back and look at it, taking it all in at once.Your eyes follow the
curves of the smooth, painted surfaces to the points where they meet at the
polished and gleaming bedrails.
You see the glint and sparkle in the bright, chrome plating of her
handwheels, and curvaceous shapely handles.
Yes. Those handles.
No other lathe has handles that fit your hands and fingers like these lathes.
They just ..."fit".
They turn so smooth and concentric and they are true to you.
Your lathe will be Loyal. Forgiving.
Willing to give you better than you hope to deserve, if you will just treat 'em
right.
It''ll be as high on your list of loves as your favorite gun, horse or dog.
 
Or computer. Another bad habit.
 
Anyway, there's some great stuff here and friendly, gentlemanly folk very
willing to help.
I have not witnessed an over-inflated ego's (other than my own).
And you won't have to ever ask if it's OK to ask a stupid question, the answer
is NO.
Because I already did it.
 
And so, here I lurk, the unofficial group jester.
 
-Dan

--- On Thu, 4/29/10, beatty.frank <beatty.frank@ yahoo.com> wrote:

From: beatty.frank <beatty.frank@ yahoo.com>
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2010, 5:20 PM

 

Sorry I took so long to reply. I drive 78 miles to work and then 78 home. I
usually just sleep. I do know some, but I don't know about these small lathes. I
also need to learn how to improvise. I don't have somebody's tool room to raid
anymore. Every journeyman I have ever met has a different way to drill a hole,
and I found out you can never drill a hole the same way twice. Thanks for the
welcome Garlinghouse.

--- In atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com, "L. Garlinghouse" <lhghouse@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Welcome aboard. Doubtful that I can tell you anything you don't already know
but I may be able to help you regain some of your lost arrogance.
>
> L.H. Garlinghouse
> Arkansas USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank Beatty
> To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:17 PM
> Subject: [atlas_craftsman] new member w/101-07403 lathe
>
>
>
> Hi folks! This is my first time in this sort of environment. I just got an old
Craftsman 12" x 42" O.A.L. in good shape from my boss. . . . <<snipp snipp>>
>
> . . . . I like the fact that you folks appreciate making chips. I have been
out of tooling long enough to have lost most of my arrogance and I suppose some
of you guys can help me with the rest. I really miss having a lathe to spin up a
punch or driver for one of my bike or hot rod projects. I suppose I can stoop to
actually making stuff also. I'm really lazy, that's why I
> like having a lathe. Any how I'm old enough to answer to my name if you call
me out. Just call me Frank.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ------

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
atlas_craftsman- unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com

Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_
craftsman_ projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_ craftsman/

The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at http://pico- systems.com/ cgi-bin/Atlas-
wiki/Atlas. cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at mailto://elson@
pico-systems. comYahoo! Groups Links

------------ --------- --------- ------

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
atlas_craftsman- unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com

Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_
craftsman_ projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_ craftsman/

The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at http://pico- systems.com/ cgi-bin/Atlas-
wiki/Atlas. cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at mailto://elson@
pico-systems. comYahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The problem with the 5C collet blocks is that the closer is a nut on the
back of the block.  You couldn't change the part without removing it from
the chuck every single time.  Your best bet for your work is probably to
either use 3C or 3MT collets with a homemade drawbar or drawtube.

On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 12:58, Bruce Morton <brucemorton@...>wrote:

>
>
> I'm adrift in the confusing land of collets.
>
> For my Craftsman 101.07403 lathe I may want to use 5c collets for turning
> fly rod ferrules. I'll be turning small diameter tubing that requires
> extreme precision.
>
> I have a very nice 4 jaw chuck that I have never used..I  always go to the
> three jaw for work that doesnt have to be re-chucked.
>
> My question is, could I purchase a square collet block with closer for 5c
> collets..Im seeing a price of $35 on Amazon...and then "dial in" the closer
> to dead nuts and just leave it there and make my 4 jaw chuck into a
> dedicated 5c collet chuck?
>
> Or am I just completely not understanding how to set up for collets. I'm on
> a TIGHT budget...I cant be spending hundreds of dollars to "do it right".
>
> Thanks for everyone's help ...this is a great forum...
>
> --- On Fri, 4/30/10, Dan Buchanan <db45acp@... <db45acp%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
>
> From: Dan Buchanan <db45acp@... <db45acp%40yahoo.com>>
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
> To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com <atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 10:04 PM
>
> My sentiments, exactly!
>
> --- On Fri, 4/30/10, Frank Beatty
<beatty.frank@...<beatty.frank%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
>
> From: Frank Beatty <beatty.frank@... <beatty.frank%40yahoo.com>>
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
> To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com <atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 6:53 PM
>
>
>
> Hey Bill, Sounds like he ought to drop the meds completely. More fun
> without them.
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: Bill Stietenroth <k5zty@... <k5zty%40juno.com>>
> To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Fri, April 30, 2010 7:30:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
>
> Sounds like Dan is off his meds again.
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Dan Buchanan <db45acp@yahoo. com>
> To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
> Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:24:55 -0700 (PDT)
>
> Hello Frank.
> My name is Dan.
> This is my story.
> I am a Lathoholic, swarf maker and machine head.
> Lathes are my particular persuasion.
> I have just achieved the humble ranking of Tinkerer, par excellence.
> I am working toward becoming a scholar and virtuoso of fine lathery.
> Â
> Welcome, to an amazing resource of indoctrination for beginners, perpetual
> students of lathe theory, co-dependent and chronic users, as well as Grand
> Masters of the great and mighty craft. Â
> There have been genuine theraputic results sought for, and achieved
> herein.
> I speak from personal experience.
> Â
> If you're tired now, wait until the lathe bug bites you, (hopefully not).
> Â
> You will slowly begin to realize, experience and appreciate the
> sculptured,
> working, works of art they are.
> You might find yourself up early, or the middle of the night, going to
> the shop just to see it. Cleaning it before breakfast, wiping it down,
> blowing away any spec of dust that dares to have found its way to her.
> You'll stand back and look at it, taking it all in at once.Your eyes follow
> the curves of the smooth, painted surfaces to the points where they meet at
> the polished and gleaming bedrails.
> You see the glint and sparkle in the bright, chrome plating of her
> handwheels, and curvaceous shapely handles.
> Yes. Those handles.
> No other lathe has handles that fit your hands and fingers like these
> lathes.
> They just ..."fit".
> They turn so smooth and concentric and they are true to you.
> Your lathe will be Loyal. Forgiving.
> Willing to give you better than you hope to deserve, if you will just treat
> 'em right.
> It''ll be as high on your list of loves as your favorite gun, horse or dog.
>
> Â
> Or computer. Another bad habit.
> Â
> Anyway, there's some great stuff here and friendly, gentlemanly folk very
> willing to help.
> I have not witnessed an over-inflated ego's (other than my own).
> And you won't have to ever ask if it's OK to ask a stupid question, the
> answer is NO.
> Because I already did it.
> Â
> And so, here I lurk, the unofficial group jester.
> Â
> -Dan
>
> --- On Thu, 4/29/10, beatty.frank <beatty.frank@ yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> From: beatty.frank <beatty.frank@ yahoo.com>
> Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new member w/101-07403 lathe
> To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Thursday, April 29, 2010, 5:20 PM
>
> Â
>
> Sorry I took so long to reply. I drive 78 miles to work and then 78 home. I
> usually just sleep. I do know some, but I don't know about these small
> lathes. I also need to learn how to improvise. I don't have somebody's tool
> room to raid anymore. Every journeyman I have ever met has a different way
> to drill a hole, and I found out you can never drill a hole the same way
> twice. Thanks for the welcome Garlinghouse.
>
> --- In atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com, "L. Garlinghouse" <lhghouse@..
> .> wrote:
> >
> > Welcome aboard. Doubtful that I can tell you anything you don't already
> know but I may be able to help you regain some of your lost arrogance.
> >
> > L.H. Garlinghouse
> > Arkansas USA
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frank Beatty
> > To: atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:17 PM
> > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] new member w/101-07403 lathe
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi folks! This is my first time in this sort of environment. I just got
> an old Craftsman 12" x 42" O.A.L. in good shape from my boss. . . . <<snipp
> snipp>>
> >
> > . . . . I like the fact that you folks appreciate making chips. I have
> been out of tooling long enough to have lost most of my arrogance and I
> suppose some of you guys can help me with the rest. I really miss having a
> lathe to spin up a punch or driver for one of my bike or hot rod projects. I
> suppose I can stoop to actually making stuff also. I'm really lazy, that's
> why I
> > like having a lathe. Any how I'm old enough to answer to my name if you
> call me out. Just call me Frank.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman- unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_
> craftsman_ projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
> http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_ craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at http://pico- systems.com/ cgi-bin/Atlas-
> wiki/Atlas. cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
> mailto://elson@ <//elson@> pico-systems. comYahoo! Groups Links
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman- unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_
> craftsman_ projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
> http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/atlas_ craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at http://pico- systems.com/ cgi-bin/Atlas-
> wiki/Atlas. cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
> mailto://elson@ <//elson@> pico-systems. comYahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
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> Groups Links
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>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On May 1, 2010, at 10:30 AM, Michael Fagan wrote:

> The problem with the 5C collet blocks is that the closer is a nut
> on the
> back of the block.  You couldn't change the part without removing
> it from
> the chuck every single time.  Your best bet for your work is
> probably to
> either use 3C or 3MT collets with a homemade drawbar or drawtube.

OR ...

Make a drawbar with a nut on the end, and use the square collet block
in a 4-jaw as described before. A remivable tommy bar on the opposite
end for a closer would be appropriate.

If one had a 6-jaw with an adjust-true feature, then the hex block
which usually come in the same set of collet blocks could also be
used in the same way.

Similarly, if one had a 3-jaw with an adjust-true feature, then the
hex block which usually come in the same set of collet blocks could
also be used in the same way.

As the OP stated he is doing ferrule work, and requires only a
limited range of sizes, 3MT collets and a simple drawbar might make
the most sense.

Or, an un-hardened MT adapter from the spindle to <whatever> and
bored and finished machined to accept 3C collets.

Or, an ER-type collet chuck, made using "found" materials for the
body and a factory nut  for the closer.

The alternatives are almost endless.

Well, I'd settle for some photos, plans and instructions on how to make one.

Bruce,
That sounds like a really wonderful idea to me.  There are several collet
block styles that have a front closing feature that would allow you to use
the full spindle ID.
I may just have to try this myself :)
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Morton" <brucemorton@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 9:58 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck


I'm adrift in the confusing land of collets.

For my Craftsman 101.07403 lathe I may want to use 5c collets for turning
fly rod ferrules. I'll be turning small diameter tubing that requires
extreme precision.

I have a very nice 4 jaw chuck that I have never used..I always go to the
three jaw for work that doesnt have to be re-chucked.

My question is, could I purchase a square collet block with closer for 5c
collets..Im seeing a price of $35 on Amazon...and then "dial in" the closer
to dead nuts and just leave it there and make my 4 jaw chuck into a
dedicated 5c collet chuck?

Or am I just completely not understanding how to set up for collets. I'm on
a TIGHT budget...I cant be spending hundreds of dollars to "do it right".

Thanks for everyone's help ...this is a great forum...

Ooops.  The front closing fixtures I was thinking about are a collet vise
and don't look like they would be adaptable.  I think the holders with the
ring in back my be adaptable to a drawbar easily enough though.  The lever
action closres might be adaptable to a lever through the headstock..  I plan
to get a set to see what can be done soon as I can use the blocks on the
mill anyway.

Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn N" <sleykin@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck


Bruce,
That sounds like a really wonderful idea to me.  There are several collet
block styles that have a front closing feature that would allow you to use
the full spindle ID.
I may just have to try this myself :)
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Morton" <brucemorton@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 9:58 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck


I'm adrift in the confusing land of collets.

For my Craftsman 101.07403 lathe I may want to use 5c collets for turning
fly rod ferrules. I'll be turning small diameter tubing that requires
extreme precision.

I have a very nice 4 jaw chuck that I have never used..I always go to the
three jaw for work that doesnt have to be re-chucked.

My question is, could I purchase a square collet block with closer for 5c
collets..Im seeing a price of $35 on Amazon...and then "dial in" the closer
to dead nuts and just leave it there and make my 4 jaw chuck into a
dedicated 5c collet chuck?

Or am I just completely not understanding how to set up for collets. I'm on
a TIGHT budget...I cant be spending hundreds of dollars to "do it right".

Thanks for everyone's help ...this is a great forum...





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Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links

the  vertical  5C collet  fixture  can  be  bolted  to a  faceplate .........the
thrded collet  closing  bar wud  need  to be  replaced   by a non thrded  tommy
bar.......i have  one  from  some  years  back bought for  that  purpose, but
after  fitting 3 jaw chucks  that are 1 1/4thou tir, the  necessity didnt seem 
pressing  ..i still have a set  of 3 AT collets  , collecting  a  lot  of  
dirt, that  are  sometimes  pressed   into   service when  advantageous
   best wishes
docn8as





-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn N <sleykin@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck




Ooops. The front closing fixtures I was thinking about are a collet vise
and don't look like they would be adaptable. I think the holders with the
ring in back my be adaptable to a drawbar easily enough though. The lever
action closres might be adaptable to a lever through the headstock.. I plan
to get a set to see what can be done soon as I can use the blocks on the
mill anyway.

Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn N" <sleykin@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck

Bruce,
That sounds like a really wonderful idea to me. There are several collet
block styles that have a front closing feature that would allow you to use
the full spindle ID.
I may just have to try this myself :)
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Morton" <brucemorton@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 9:58 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck

I'm adrift in the confusing land of collets.

For my Craftsman 101.07403 lathe I may want to use 5c collets for turning
fly rod ferrules. I'll be turning small diameter tubing that requires
extreme precision.

I have a very nice 4 jaw chuck that I have never used..I always go to the
three jaw for work that doesnt have to be re-chucked.

My question is, could I purchase a square collet block with closer for 5c
collets..Im seeing a price of $35 on Amazon...and then "dial in" the closer
to dead nuts and just leave it there and make my 4 jaw chuck into a
dedicated 5c collet chuck?

Or am I just completely not understanding how to set up for collets. I'm on
a TIGHT budget...I cant be spending hundreds of dollars to "do it right".

Thanks for everyone's help ...this is a great forum...

------------------------------------

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Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bruce,
Dumb question - what is the MAXIMUM size ferrule you going to clamp up?  For fly
rods, I can't see it going over 1/2"

If so, you should be able to pick up a drawtube, adaptor, and the necessary 3AT
collets cheap enough (AFAIK, Sobel's is gone, or I would have said to call him -
he had piles of them)
Getting 3AT collets in 1/16ths is easy - getting the 32nds isn't TOO hard -
getting the 64ths gets fun - I'm still missing one or 2 sizes, but then again, I
haven't needed them - if I ever DO, you can still order them from Hardinge (and
have a heart attack when you get the price - I DID spend for brand new 3/8" and
1/2" collets because most I had seen were beat, and I was doing production work,
and it was worth it not to get sprung units (I had found a NICE condition 1/4")

73 de KG2V

charlie...thanks for the personal response...im really struggling trying to
figure out the best way to go on the collets.

fly rod ferrules are rarely over 3/8". precision is key. we size them by 64ths
so im planning to make some split bushings to fill in where i either cant or
dont want to purchase the proper collet.

i dont need pass thru...the ferrules are quite short.

i do like the idea of keeping to the "original" style of collet and that seems
to be the 3at collet.

so...im not sure which way ill go.

id do appreciate your help...


regards
bruce

--- On Sat, 5/1/10, Charlie Gallo <Charlie@...> wrote:

From: Charlie Gallo <Charlie@...>
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck
To: "Bruce Morton" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Saturday, May 1, 2010, 8:25 PM

Bruce,
Dumb question - what is the MAXIMUM size ferrule you going to clamp up?  For fly
rods, I can't see it going over 1/2"

If so, you should be able to pick up a drawtube, adaptor, and the necessary 3AT
collets cheap enough (AFAIK, Sobel's is gone, or I would have said to call him -
he had piles of them)
Getting 3AT collets in 1/16ths is easy - getting the 32nds isn't TOO hard -
getting the 64ths gets fun - I'm still missing one or 2 sizes, but then again, I
haven't needed them - if I ever DO, you can still order them from Hardinge (and
have a heart attack when you get the price - I DID spend for brand new 3/8" and
1/2" collets because most I had seen were beat, and I was doing production work,
and it was worth it not to get sprung units (I had found a NICE condition 1/4")

73 de KG2V



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Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The simplest way to go does seem to be keeping to the "original" style of
collet, which on my Atlas QC-54 is 3MT rather than 3AT.

Although <littlemachineshop.com> does carry 3MT collets, they seem to be offered
in increments of 1/16" rather than 1/64".  The drawbar for their 3MT collets
requires little more than a trip to the local hardware store for a longish 3/8
UNC bolt, fender washers, and a spacer.

It is likely - but check first - that you can easily find sets of 3ATs and 3Cs
in 1/32" increments, but these require adapters.

Perhaps an ER-32 chuck with a 3MT shank would be in order, but the chucks
themselves are not cheap.

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Morton <brucemorton@...> wrote:
>
> charlie...thanks for the personal response...im really struggling trying to
figure out the best way to go on the collets.
>
> fly rod ferrules are rarely over 3/8". precision is key. we size them by 64ths
so im planning to make some split bushings to fill in where i either cant or
dont want to purchase the proper collet.
>
> i dont need pass thru...the ferrules are quite short.
>
> i do like the idea of keeping to the "original" style of collet and that seems
to be the 3at collet.
>
> so...im not sure which way ill go.
>
> id do appreciate your help...
>
>
> regards
> bruce
>
> --- On Sat, 5/1/10, Charlie Gallo <Charlie@...> wrote:
>
> From: Charlie Gallo <Charlie@...>
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck
> To: "Bruce Morton" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Saturday, May 1, 2010, 8:25 PM
>
> Bruce,
> Dumb question - what is the MAXIMUM size ferrule you going to clamp up?  For
fly rods, I can't see it going over 1/2"
>
> If so, you should be able to pick up a drawtube, adaptor, and the necessary
3AT collets cheap enough (AFAIK, Sobel's is gone, or I would have said to call
him - he had piles of them)
> Getting 3AT collets in 1/16ths is easy - getting the 32nds isn't TOO hard -
getting the 64ths gets fun - I'm still missing one or 2 sizes, but then again, I
haven't needed them - if I ever DO, you can still order them from Hardinge (and
have a heart attack when you get the price - I DID spend for brand new 3/8" and
1/2" collets because most I had seen were beat, and I was doing production work,
and it was worth it not to get sprung units (I had found a NICE condition 1/4")
>
> 73 de KG2V
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@...! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Group
Let me introduce myself:
Dirk Kooiker also known as dirty dirk or just plain dirty nick comes from dirty
hands and clothes 35 years as a car mechanic, dirty mouth Navy veteran, and
dirty mind naturally.
I have just acquired a Craftsman 12X36 10129980 lathe. As a mechanic I have
always been interested in machine work so I finally got a lathe and am feeling a
little overwhelmed
with all the abbreviations and acronyms Ok first things first the lathe needs
cleaned up maybe a little paint what's the best cleaner and is there a paint
that is preferred?
Thanks for any input and encouragement.
Dirty

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Dirk,
       Welcome to the group.
       My preference for cleaning is liquid dishwashing detergent applied
straight.  A little elbow grease and rinse it off and dry.
       For paint, sometimes I'll use Krylon spray, other times I'll go for an oil
based industrial enamel such as Rustoleum.  Depends on how much abuse the finish
will be taking in the future.

Robert

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Dirk Kooiker" <dirkkooiker@...> wrote:
>
> Group
> Let me introduce myself:
> Dirk Kooiker also known as dirty dirk or just plain dirty nick comes from
dirty hands and clothes 35 years as a car mechanic, dirty mouth Navy veteran,
and dirty mind naturally.
> I have just acquired a Craftsman 12X36 10129980 lathe. As a mechanic I have
always been interested in machine work so I finally got a lathe and am feeling a
little overwhelmed
> with all the abbreviations and acronyms Ok first things first the lathe needs
cleaned up maybe a little paint what's the best cleaner and is there a paint
that is preferred?
> Thanks for any input and encouragement.
> Dirty
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Don't paint it yet.  Use it for a while instead.  Take it apart and
get the gunk out.  WD40, soapy water.  Don't go crazy with harsh
chemicals - some of the parts of the Craftsman are aluminum-based (a
material called ZAMAK) and can be damaged by long soaks in the wrong
stuff.  Inspect the lathe for damage.

Welcome!

On May 2, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Dirk Kooiker wrote:

> Group
> Let me introduce myself:
> Dirk Kooiker also known as dirty dirk or just plain dirty nick comes
> from dirty hands and clothes 35 years as a car mechanic, dirty mouth
> Navy veteran, and dirty mind naturally.
> I have just acquired a Craftsman 12X36 10129980 lathe. As a mechanic
> I have always been interested in machine work so I finally got a
> lathe and am feeling a little overwhelmed
> with all the abbreviations and acronyms Ok first things first the
> lathe needs cleaned up maybe a little paint what's the best cleaner
> and is there a paint that is preferred?
> Thanks for any input and encouragement.
> Dirty
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey Dirk,

Welcome to the group.

I just went through the same thing myself. My lathe was so gunked up that I took
it down to individual parts to clean it. In the process most of the paint came
off so I ended up painting it as well. This wasn't my plan, but it worked out
well. It took me about 3 weeks of 3-4 hours / day. It was a LOT of work.

As far as getting the gunk off, I tried 10% ammonia, easy off oven cleaner (be
careful with that on the zamak, it's lye and it likes to eat metal), purple
cleaner, a pressure washer, elbow grease, wire wheels, wd-40 soaks, and regular
old diesel. For me, the easy off oven cleaner and diesel were very effective.
Nothing beats a wire wheel, but make no mistake paint is going to come off if
you go that route.

If you do happen to make it to bare metal, Rustoleum is a great choice for
paint. Really any of the alkyd paints will work. I talked to a Sherwin Williams
rep about this, and apparently Ace Rust Stop comes out of a Sherwin Williams
batch plant, and Rustoleum seems to have ties to them as well. In fact Ace Rust
Stop MSDS are from Sherwin Williams. Just be sure to get 100% of the grease off
and use a good metal primer. A product called "metal prep" is a good idea as
well.

Good luck, and be sure to let us know how it goes.

  - jason

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Dirk Kooiker" <dirkkooiker@...> wrote:
>
> Group
> Let me introduce myself:
> Dirk Kooiker also known as dirty dirk or just plain dirty nick comes from
dirty hands and clothes 35 years as a car mechanic, dirty mouth Navy veteran,
and dirty mind naturally.
> I have just acquired a Craftsman 12X36 10129980 lathe. As a mechanic I have
always been interested in machine work so I finally got a lathe and am feeling a
little overwhelmed
> with all the abbreviations and acronyms Ok first things first the lathe needs
cleaned up maybe a little paint what's the best cleaner and is there a paint
that is preferred?
> Thanks for any input and encouragement.
> Dirty
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

If you mean Purple Zep, by all means follow the safety instructions.
They aren't kidding.  Good stuff, though!

On May 2, 2010, at 11:45 PM, scubanarc wrote:

> purple cleaner



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

From what I can tell all of the "purple cleaner" type products are pretty much
the same: soap and a base. I tried 3 different ones and couldn't tell the
difference. Don't know about Purple Zep, though, I have not seen that one around
here.

  - jason

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, ahz <ahz@...> wrote:
>
> If you mean Purple Zep, by all means follow the safety instructions.
> They aren't kidding.  Good stuff, though!
>
> On May 2, 2010, at 11:45 PM, scubanarc wrote:
>
> > purple cleaner
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

In theory, cast iron can be welded with an arc welder or brazed with a torch. 
I've seen it done, but I've never done it personally.  There should be a lot on
this on the 'net, in Machinery's HB, and some of the Lincoln Electric books
[usually very low cost and sometimes available in the library].

The problem is cracking when the piece is suddenly heated by the process and
then again when it cools too fast.  Remember the biggest a weld will ever be is
when it is being deposited -- from there on out it shrinks and can pull the cast
iron apart around the weld.  Steel, not being so brittle will distort before it
breaks -- usually.

General procedure is either 1.) Weld a small amount -- maybe 1/2" -- peen it by
beating the weld with a ball peen hammer and then letting it cool, and then once
it has cooled, do another 1//2".  [I've just pulled the 1/2" figure out of the
air.  The actual length of the weld pass depends on the size and shape of the
casting and the ambient temperature.]  OR 2.) Heat the whole casting to a
pre-weld temperature [look this up].  Monitor the temp with temple sticks -- a
sort of colored crayon that melts at a specific heat and should be easily
availbe at your local welding supply shop.  When up to temp, weld and then bring
the whole weldment/casting down to ambient temp. slowly.  Ideally in an oven but
maybe buried in sand or some other medium.

I've written all of the above from a feeble memory on my first cup of coffee, so
double check me on all of this.  Books are good, the 'net is good, and REAL
weldors can be the best of all .

L.H. Garlinghouse
[Not a real weldor by any stretch of the imagination]
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Russ Kepler
   To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 8:58 AM
   Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Cast iron repair



   On Saturday 01 May 2010 06:46:24 woolfgeo15 wrote:
   > Can anyone recommend a someone for casting small parts in cast iron and
   > welding of broken cast iron parts for antique tools? Thanks

   Cattail Foundry in Pennsylvania has done good work for me. They don't do



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you are a member of the 7x12 minilathe group, they have drawings for making
your own ER collet chuck. It's drawn for the chinese minilathes, but the
mounting could easily be changed for an Atlas.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/files/ER%20Chuck%20Drawings/

Clint Driggars posted them not too long before he died. He'd appreciate someone
else being able to use them.

Bill in OKC

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "stephen_s_wood" <stephen_s_wood@...>
wrote:
>
> The simplest way to go does seem to be keeping to the "original" style of
collet, which on my Atlas QC-54 is 3MT rather than 3AT.
>
> Although <littlemachineshop.com> does carry 3MT collets, they seem to be
offered in increments of 1/16" rather than 1/64".  The drawbar for their 3MT
collets requires little more than a trip to the local hardware store for a
longish 3/8 UNC bolt, fender washers, and a spacer.
>
> It is likely - but check first - that you can easily find sets of 3ATs and 3Cs
in 1/32" increments, but these require adapters.
>
> Perhaps an ER-32 chuck with a 3MT shank would be in order, but the chucks
themselves are not cheap.
>
> --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Morton <brucemorton@> wrote:
> >
> > charlie...thanks for the personal response...im really struggling trying to
figure out the best way to go on the collets.
> >
> > fly rod ferrules are rarely over 3/8". precision is key. we size them by
64ths so im planning to make some split bushings to fill in where i either cant
or dont want to purchase the proper collet.
> >
> > i dont need pass thru...the ferrules are quite short.
> >
> > i do like the idea of keeping to the "original" style of collet and that
seems to be the 3at collet.
> >
> > so...im not sure which way ill go.
> >
> > id do appreciate your help...
> >
> >
> > regards
> > bruce
> >
> > --- On Sat, 5/1/10, Charlie Gallo <Charlie@> wrote:
> >
> > From: Charlie Gallo <Charlie@>
> > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 5c collets in a 4 jaw chuck
> > To: "Bruce Morton" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
> > Date: Saturday, May 1, 2010, 8:25 PM
> >
> > Bruce,
> > Dumb question - what is the MAXIMUM size ferrule you going to clamp up?  For
fly rods, I can't see it going over 1/2"
> >
> > If so, you should be able to pick up a drawtube, adaptor, and the necessary
3AT collets cheap enough (AFAIK, Sobel's is gone, or I would have said to call
him - he had piles of them)
> > Getting 3AT collets in 1/16ths is easy - getting the 32nds isn't TOO hard -
getting the 64ths gets fun - I'm still missing one or 2 sizes, but then again, I
haven't needed them - if I ever DO, you can still order them from Hardinge (and
have a heart attack when you get the price - I DID spend for brand new 3/8" and
1/2" collets because most I had seen were beat, and I was doing production work,
and it was worth it not to get sprung units (I had found a NICE condition 1/4")
> >
> > 73 de KG2V
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
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Having been a long time NASA certified machinist and metal worker, I have always
used phosphoric acid. This you paint on carefully and wait per the directions. I
think 15- 30 minutes. Then rinse rinse rinse rinse rinse. Then dry. Now your
metal is ready for primer and then paint. Perfect stick. You must rinse the
driveway or surrounding area well to dilute the acid well. You can get it at ACE
or most hardware stores. You don't need allot.

--- On Sun, 5/2/10, toolmaker48 <toolmaker48@...> wrote:

From: toolmaker48 <toolmaker48@...>
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: new to list
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, May 2, 2010, 6:23 PM







 









       Hi Dirk,

       Welcome to the group.

       My preference for cleaning is liquid dishwashing detergent applied
straight.  A little elbow grease and rinse it off and dry.

       For paint, sometimes I'll use Krylon spray, other times I'll go for an oil
based industrial enamel such as Rustoleum.  Depends on how much abuse the finish
will be taking in the future.



Robert



--- In atlas_craftsman@ yahoogroups. com, "Dirk Kooiker" <dirkkooiker@ ...>
wrote:

>

> Group

> Let me introduce myself:

> Dirk Kooiker also known as dirty dirk or just plain dirty nick comes from
dirty hands and clothes 35 years as a car mechanic, dirty mouth Navy veteran,
and dirty mind naturally.

> I have just acquired a Craftsman 12X36 10129980 lathe. As a mechanic I have
always been interested in machine work so I finally got a lathe and am feeling a
little overwhelmed

> with all the abbreviations and acronyms Ok first things first the lathe needs
cleaned up maybe a little paint what's the best cleaner and is there a paint
that is preferred?

> Thanks for any input and encouragement.

> Dirty

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Morton <brucemorton@...> wrote:
>
> I'm adrift in the confusing land of collets.
>
> For my Craftsman 101.07403 lathe I may want to use 5c collets for turning fly
rod ferrules. I'll be turning small diameter tubing that requires extreme
precision.
>
> I have a very nice 4 jaw chuck that I have never used..I  always go to the
three jaw for work that doesnt have to be re-chucked.
>
> My question is, could I purchase a square collet block with closer for 5c
collets..Im seeing a price of $35 on Amazon...and then "dial in" the closer to
dead nuts and just leave it there and make my 4 jaw chuck into a dedicated 5c
collet chuck?
>
> Or am I just completely not understanding how to set up for collets. I'm on a
TIGHT budget...I cant be spending hundreds of dollars to "do it right".
>
> Thanks for everyone's help ...this is a great forum...
>

I would go one of three ways:

1.  A 3AT collet adapter that fits in the spindle of your lathe, and home-made
draw bar, with a 3AT collet for each size of ferrule you want to make.

Here is a 3 AT Adapter for $25: 
http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=3atnose

You can get 3 AT Collets on ebay for about $15 each, or at Victor for $20:  
http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=3C+and+3\
AT+Collets:283,282,1324,1329

2.  Buy a 3 MT collet for each size ferrule you want to make, which will fit
directly in your spindle, and make a home-made draw bar.  A draw bar for MT
collets can just be a threaded rod of the right size. with a round handle and a
home-made bushing on the end.  The problem with 3MT collets is you have to bang
on them pretty good to get them to release out of the spindle, but you can make
a brass drift to the apprpriate size for that purpose.  3MT collets are $12 to
$14 each, here:  
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=874479994

or $8 each from CDCO:  http://cdcotools.com/

3.  Buy an inexpensive (el cheapo) ER Collet chuck to fit your spindle, with a
set of ER collets.  You might have to buy addtional ER collets if you want to
make ferrules in diameters other than in the sizes that come with the set.  Here
is a cheap ($80)ER Collet set: 
http://www.shars.com/products/view/284/9_Piece_ERType_MT3_Collets_and_Chuck_Set

Shars often sells the same products cheaper on ebay.  I bought a 3MT ER32 chuck
on ebay, and a collet set from Shars, and the accuracy was very good (.0005
TIR).  Total investment with 11 collets was about $110.

Re to Dirk
Everyone has different ideas, and uses for their lathes. One size does not fit
all. I am 70 and my 6" Atlas is 50. It is in better shape than I am. I use it
several times a week. I would not consider painting it. Some people want a
pretty to look at, others a work horse. Mine the latter.

If you want to use it and keep in in good running order for a lifetime, then the
key is clean and lube, clean and lube, repeat.

Tool post grinding and dry sanding are a nightmare for a lathe and chuck life.
Wet sanding with silicon carbide paper and kerosene or WD-40 keep the ways
clean. Consider cleaning the ways before use. That is right, BEFORE.  Dust and
abrasive stuff lands on the ways when the machine is out of service. I use WD
and paper towels before moving the carriage, then move it and clean the area
where is was sitting. Then oil and you are good to go.

When you are familiar with the machine, you can take the carriage off and clean
in a very short time. Same for cross slide. On the 6" machine it is a 5-10
minute chore to remove, clean, and replace.

My book shows 14 places to oil daily, but I just do the ones I use. If I am not
using the lead screw or back gear, no need to oil there today.

And from my memory, in a factory where we had machine tools, our lube supplier
guy told us this. 98% of lube is clean lub, in the right place, at the right
time. 2% is what you use. Most failures were no lube, or contaminated lube. Much
like a car.

Happy turning.

-chart-
-----------------------



--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Dirk Kooiker" <dirkkooiker@...> wrote:
>
> Group
> Let me introduce myself:
> Dirk Kooiker also known as dirty dirk or just plain dirty nick comes from
dirty hands and clothes 35 years as a car mechanic, dirty mouth Navy veteran,
and dirty mind naturally.
> I have just acquired a Craftsman 12X36 10129980 lathe. As a mechanic I have
always been interested in machine work so I finally got a lathe and am feeling a
little overwhelmed
> with all the abbreviations and acronyms Ok first things first the lathe needs
cleaned up maybe a little paint what's the best cleaner and is there a paint
that is preferred?
> Thanks for any input and encouragement.
> Dirty
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi All,

Over the weekend I managed to get the last 2 coats of polyurethane on
the laminated work surface the little Atlas horizontal mill sits on.  I
already had the ubiquitous "black machine cabinet base", but despised
the flimsy sheet metal tray that topped it off.  It was larger than
necessary, had bent corners (due to it being too darn big!), and
resonated like a sounding board.

I laminated a work surface from some scrap 2x3 lumber, gluing the boards
together for a top just over 2 1/2" thick (had to feed them through the
joiner to flatten the sides and bring them to uniform height).  Three
lengths of 7/16" all-thread pass completely through the pieces to
"clamp" it all together.  I then bolted it down to the base, marked and
drilled the holes for the MFC to be mounted, and with my wife's help
(that is a *HEAVY* little machine!), got the machine in place and bolted
down.

In a move that will probably draw ire from the purists, I fitted the
machine with a 2hp DC motor and speed control (salvaged from a
treadmill), which I had on-hand.  The original Atlas pulleys on the
jackshaft were shot, so I replaced them with generic pulleys from Ace
Hardware.  The jackshaft was shot, as were the bronze bushings, so I
replaced both of those.

As a result, I can run the machine from around 100-2500 RPM without
changing the belt position, with plenty of torque.  Once I get the
backgear assembly repaired and installed, I'll be able to get *very* low
speeds without much effort.

The Change-O-Matic gear cluster was broken when I was given (yes, for
free!) the machine, but rather than cast a new part and machine it, I
intend to fit a variable speed DC gearhead motor to the machine, so that
it powers the shaft that used to be run by the Change-O-Matic.  That
disconnects the feed from the spindle, and allows a fine feed at high
spindle speed without fearing that I'll tear up the fragile gear train.
But for now, I'll be manually cranking the machine.  Not that I mind,
you understand. :)  At least for now.

There's still some wore here and there to do on the machine, but it's
just about ready to start making chips in earnest.

I'm excited as heck about it!  And rest assured, I haven't made any
changes that can't be undone, and I've thrown away none of the original
pieces.  Though I can't say that I foresee getting rid of this machine
anytime in the near or not-so-near future.

I'll post pics once I get a chance to do so.

Shad H.

Hello all, Does anyone have or know of a complete listing of all the tools Atlas
made over the years? I recently saw a Atlas catalog on metalworking tools on
Ebay that had included a single sheet on the "New metalworking bandsaws".
Catalog was from 1956. This got me wondering what all Atlas had produced over
the years. I'm becoming a confirmed Atlas Toolaholic and want to expand my
collection. If anyone has info on these bandsaws I am very interestsd in
learning more about them.    Thanks in advance, Kent J

Check out Atlas Press publications on OWWM.com  THere are numerous catalogs
PDF's in the publications listing

http://owwm.com/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=51&tab=3&sort=2&th=false&fl=

On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 9:01 PM, kaj5200@... <kaj5200@...> wrote:

>
>
> Hello all, Does anyone have or know of a complete listing of all the tools
> Atlas made over the years? I recently saw a Atlas catalog on metalworking
> tools on Ebay that had included a single sheet on the "New metalworking
> bandsaws". Catalog was from 1956. This got me wondering what all Atlas had
> produced over the years. I'm becoming a confirmed Atlas Toolaholic and want
> to expand my collection. If anyone has info on these bandsaws I am very
> interestsd in learning more about them. Thanks in advance, Kent J
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]