Vines & Wines: Portuguese white wines Esporão Reserva Branco details

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Esporão Reserva Branco

In the bottle: 40 percent arinto, 30 percent antão vaz, 30 percent roupeiro; 14.5 percent alcohol; 2009 vintage

In the field: Herdada de Esporão winery of the Alentejo region of southeastern...

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By: Jack Berninger | Richmond Times Dispatch
Published: January 22, 2012

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Antão Vaz. Arinto. Roupeiro. The latest flu viruses? No, three white wine grapes you have probably never heard of, unless you're into wines from Portugal.

They make up the Esporão Reserva Branco 2009, an intense, full-bodied blend that might be a good alternative white wine year-round.

Ian Kirkland, owner of The Caboose wine shop in Ashland, explains why it's high on his favorites list.

"The uniqueness of it," he said. "I love the richness of it coupled with the fresh acidity. It's a blend of indigenous Portuguese varietals. Weight, texture and acidity remind me of a nice white Burgundy.

"We've carried this one for years, and it never fails to deliver. It's been good, if not consistent, from vintage to vintage."

Portugal is the 10th-largest wine-producing country in the world, quite a feat for a country of nearly 11 million. It is best known for its port, Madeira and Vinho Verdi, but the grapes used in this blend soon could be as familiar as some of the more popular whites. Roupeiro and antão vaz bring acidity and slight citrus flavors to wine, and roupeiro, when blended with the other two, often adds a honey flavor.

The winery's description: light straw color with tropical and citric aromas that add freshness to the toasty oak notes. The palate is intense, well-textured and elegant, with a long and persistent finish.

Would you call this an alternative to chardonnay?

"Can't say that it would appeal to all chardonnay drinkers, specifically California or new world style, but I do find that the weight, texture and acidity have some almost white Burgundy elements, which is chardonnay," Kirkland said.

Food pairings are relatively easy for this acidic wine.

"I think it's fairly versatile," Kirkland said. "Grilled chicken or fish dishes with a little weight. It probably could handle something with a little spice — barbecue shrimp."

There's one more thing — the label.

"I also appreciate that each vintage sports a new label design from a selected Portuguese artist," Kirkland said.

http://www2.timesdispatch.com/lifestyles/2012/jan/22/tdflair05-vines-and-wines-portuguese-white-wines-e-ar-1621809/