amateurbagpipemakers : Messages : 3928-3957 of 5108

Email the Northumbrian Pipers Society, they may make photo copies for you. They did this years ago for me, although I don't use the plans for my borderpipes, though I now have a copy of the original book. My border-pipe plans are a bit different in bore size but the lengths are pretty close to the original Cocks plans. Even Hammish Moore, who says his pipes are made based on those plans, only uses the external asthetics in his design. If you have ever layed a Hammish BP drone down on the pages of the book, they are almost right on the money. His alto drone is shorter than the one in the plans. The tenor in the plans tunes way down on the tuning slide, so making it shorter is a better alternative. The bass drone is the right length but the plans have too wide of a bore for my liking. I reduce the mid-section bore and the upper bore by at least a 1/16". The chanter plans in the Cocks book are not that great IMHO, I went for a reduced highland bore A=440 chanter with full crossfingering capabilities. I would give you the info, but I think it would be more eithical to ask the Northumbrian Pipers Society for a copy.

I'm redrawing my 2006 border-pipe plans with a modified and improved design. I hate the fact that their is not really a good accurate set of border-pipe plans out there that one can make and have a working set of pipes that really plays, that is designed to work with readily available border drone and chanter reeds. I hope to publish these sometime this year, where?? I don't know yet.

Cheers, Seth Hamon
www.SwedishBagpipes.com
Maker of Scottish, Irish, and Swedish Bagpipes.

--- On Tue, 1/10/12, crazypyper <crazypyper@...> wrote:

From: crazypyper <crazypyper@...>
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Cocks and Bryan Border Pipe drones
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 10, 2012, 6:23 PM

Hello All,
I have been trying to get the book that contains the dimensions of border pipes that Cocks and Bryan authored. So far unsuccessful, could anyone who has it give up the drone section LENGTHS and BORES.
Your help would be very appreciated.
Ryan

Reply | Messages in this Topic (4)

#3930

From: "Jimmy c" <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:09 am
Subject: mew member intro "Jimmy"

Hello group,

My name is Jim Cameron. "Jimmy". First allow me to thank you for allowing me
membership. I found this group searching for bagpipes groups here on yahoo. I
desided after my father's passing to take up the pipes. I have a practice
chanter the CoP green book and looking for a teacher at present. I found this
group researching how bagpipes were made. Why? Well they are not cheap for a
good stand. I thought I would join as I thought it would be enjoyable to attempt
to make my own. One because I can't afford a good set of pipes at this point in
time, the other is that I thought if I understood how they were made I would
better understand the pipes as a whole and be a better piper in the end for it,
lastly I thought it would be fun to try and make a set just to see if I can make
a playable stand of pipes. One thing that does help me at this early stage is
that I have done leather work for about ten years, So making the bag is a matter
of a pattern and getting some leather from the shelf for the bag. There are
patterns for bags all over the net and I thought I saw some in the files
section. Also I saw plans for stocks, drones, bass and teners and a blow pipe in
the files section as well as a couple chanters. My first step I think is
desideing what pipes I wantto make. That would be the great highland pipes. I
can make a bag and research how to season it and at the vary least turn the
stocks. over and above that will take some time and learning on my part hence
why I joined this list.
So I guess my first question is what type of wood can be used, I know it would
be a hardwood. I am not sure I can get rosewood localy. By Locally I mean I live
in the USA, in the state of Wisconsin in a sleeply little village called Nowalk.
I added at because I can only assume there are members from all over the world
hear. I know I can't get ABW localy. I also am a member of a reinactment group
called the SCA is that my porsonia is that of a 12th century scots. I chose that
because well I am a Cameron. So that said a stand for play at events that would
have been played in the 12 century might be a thought. I am still not sure if at
that point in time the GHP had one drone or none. Be first I would try a set on
great highland pipes as we know them today.

#3931

From: "Jimmy c" <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:27 am
Subject: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello group,
Sorry, I don't know why the first one posted,  I mist have clicked funny or
something. That said I would like to try my intro again.
My name is Jim Cameron. "Jimmy". First allow me that thank you for allowing me
membership. I found this group searching for bagpipes groups here on yahoo. I
decided after my father's passing to take up the pipes. I have a practice
chanter the CoP green book and looking for a teacher at present. I found this
group researching how bagpipes were made. Why? Well they are not cheap for a
good stand. I thought I would join as I thought it would be enjoyable to attempt
to make my own. One because I can't afford a good set of pipes at this point in
time, the other is that I thought if I understood how they were made I would
better understand the pipes as a whole and be a better piper in the end for it,
lastly I thought it would be fun to try and make a set just to see if I can make
a playable stand of pipes. One thing that does help me at this early stage is
that I have done leather work for about ten years, So making the bag is a matter
of a pattern and getting some leather from the shelf for the bag. There are
patterns for bags all over the net and I thought I saw some in the files
section. In addition, I saw plans for stocks, drones, bass and tenors and a
blowpipe in the files section as well as a couple chanters. My first step I
think is deciding what pipes I want to make. That would be the great highland
pipes. I can make a bag and research how to season it and at the vary least turn
the stocks and tie them.  over and above that will take some time and learning
on my part hence why I joined this list.
So I guess my first question is what type of wood can be used, I know it would
be a hardwood. I am not sure I can get rosewood local. By Locally I mean I live
in the USA, in the state of Wisconsin in a sleepy little village called Norwalk.
I added at because I can only assume there are members from all over the world
hear. I know I can't get ABW local. I also am a member of a reenactment group
called the SCA in that group my persona is that of a 12th century Scots. I chose
that because well I am a Cameron. So that said a stand for play at events that
would have been played in the 12 century might be a thought. I am still not sure
if at that point in time the GHP had one drone or none. Be first I would try a
set on great highland pipes as we know them today. So what type of hard woods
work in the OK area of pipe making. I don't mind if the wood is not the best for
pipes as I would rather using less costly wood due to the fact I know I will
make mistakes and I would prefer them not to be to costly in the beginning until
I have a better idea what I am doing. So with all that what types of wood would
the membership recommend for a beginner like me?

Thanks you for your time, sorry for the mix up with my first try at a intro.
Jimmy

#3932

From: Seth Hamon <texasbagpiper@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:57 am
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

texasbagpiper

Hi Jimmy, I'm on my cell so I'll keep it short for now. Getting tooled up to make pipes costs more than buying a few sets of pipes or more. It also takes time to develop skills to make a set of pipes. Have fun. Seth.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 25, 2012, at 8:27 PM, "Jimmy c" <kc9pxz@...> wrote:

Hello group,
Sorry, I don't know why the first one posted, I mist have clicked funny or something. That said I would like to try my intro again.
My name is Jim Cameron. "Jimmy". First allow me that thank you for allowing me membership. I found this group searching for bagpipes groups here on yahoo. I decided after my father's passing to take up the pipes. I have a practice chanter the CoP green book and looking for a teacher at present. I found this group researching how bagpipes were made. Why? Well they are not cheap for a good stand. I thought I would join as I thought it would be enjoyable to attempt to make my own. One because I can't afford a good set of pipes at this point in time, the other is that I thought if I understood how they were made I would better understand the pipes as a whole and be a better piper in the end for it, lastly I thought it would be fun to try and make a set just to see if I can make a playable stand of pipes. One thing that does help me at this early stage is that I have done leather work for about ten years, So making the bag is a matter of a pattern and getting some leather from the shelf for the bag. There are patterns for bags all over the net and I thought I saw some in the files section. In addition, I saw plans for stocks, drones, bass and tenors and a blowpipe in the files section as well as a couple chanters. My first step I think is deciding what pipes I want to make. That would be the great highland pipes. I can make a bag and research how to season it and at the vary least turn the stocks and tie them. over and above that will take some time and learning on my part hence why I joined this list.
So I guess my first question is what type of wood can be used, I know it would be a hardwood. I am not sure I can get rosewood local. By Locally I mean I live in the USA, in the state of Wisconsin in a sleepy little village called Norwalk. I added at because I can only assume there are members from all over the world hear. I know I can't get ABW local. I also am a member of a reenactment group called the SCA in that group my persona is that of a 12th century Scots. I chose that because well I am a Cameron. So that said a stand for play at events that would have been played in the 12 century might be a thought. I am still not sure if at that point in time the GHP had one drone or none. Be first I would try a set on great highland pipes as we know them today. So what type of hard woods work in the OK area of pipe making. I don't mind if the wood is not the best for pipes as I would rather using less costly wood due to the fact I know I will make mistakes and I would prefer them not to be to costly in the beginning until I have a better idea what I am doing. So with all that what types of wood would the membership recommend for a beginner like me?

Thanks you for your time, sorry for the mix up with my first try at a intro.
Jimmy

#3933

From: David Valdes <valdesdavid@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:41 am
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

valdesdavid

I totally agree with Seth. We're not telling this just to break your dreams. I
was just in the same case as you.

Had to buy a metal lathe (not a cheap one), then had to buy a lot of wood and
let it dry for manu years. I needed to purchase some reamers also (these things
are damn expensive). After that it's just practice and more practice.

We encourage you to make pipes, if it is what you want. We just want to let you
know that it will take time,effort and a real investment.

Cheers

Envoyé de mon iPhone

#3934

From: Seth Hamon <texasbagpiper@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:24 pm
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

texasbagpiper

Yep, custom made reamers are $500-$1000, but flat scraper reamers work well for highland chanters. Seth.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 26, 2012, at 1:41 AM, David Valdes <valdesdavid@...> wrote:

I totally agree with Seth. We're not telling this just to break your dreams. I was just in the same case as you.

Had to buy a metal lathe (not a cheap one), then had to buy a lot of wood and let it dry for manu years. I needed to purchase some reamers also (these things are damn expensive). After that it's just practice and more practice.

We encourage you to make pipes, if it is what you want. We just want to let you know that it will take time,effort and a real investment.

Cheers

Envoyé de mon iPhone

#3935

From: "smithdadof4" <edasmith1960@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:47 pm
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

smithdadof4

Dear Jimmy -

Like you, the dream of making pipes is one that I share, although I haven't,
"... gotten around to it, yet." This year, I promise.  I have already picked up
some Delrin plastic and plan to start by making some plastic practice chanters.
I know the properties are different from ABW, etc., but it seems the best way to
start learning and tooling.

As a Grade 1/Professional level player, I suggest that playing will help your
turning more than vice versa. Once you learn how reeds, tuning and over-tones
work, the art and science of seasoning, turning, boring and reaming will make a
lot more sense. You will be able to appreciate why certain things are made the
way they are - why the tradition 'works'. Check out the "Events Page at the
Mid-West Pipe Band Association to locate events, players and *teachers* -
www.mwpba.org   Expect to travel about an hour to find a teacher up in your area
- anything closer is a bonus!

Don't discount your leather experience, either. Well made bags are always sought
after, and with the interest in cauld wind pipes, bags, bellows and straps might
be something you could offer to those making the sticks.

And don't give up the dream!  I met a fellow American piper while slumping
around Scotland at an Edinburgh youth hostel in 1980.  We were both experienced
pipers (Grade 2 and 20 years old ... invinceable). Five years later we were
playing in NYC together and I played at his wedding - he had finally set up his
shop and hired (partnered with) his own master teacher. Charley Kron has made
some of the best pipes this side of the Atlantic and trained some other great
makers.

Welcome to the group. I have learned a ton of information here - enough to fuel
my desire, but with cautionary experience.

Edward Smith
Paris, TN

--- In amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com, "Jimmy c" <kc9pxz@...> wrote:
>
> Hello group,
> Sorry, I don't know why the first one posted,  I mist have clicked funny or
something. That said I would like to try my intro again.
> My name is Jim Cameron. "Jimmy". First allow me that thank you for allowing me
membership. I found this group searching for bagpipes groups here on yahoo. I
decided after my father's passing to take up the pipes. I have a practice
chanter the CoP green book and looking for a teacher at present. I found this
group researching how bagpipes were made. Why? Well they are not cheap for a
good stand. I thought I would join as I thought it would be enjoyable to attempt
to make my own.
<snip>

#3936

From: "gcrimmins" <gcrimmins@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 3:29 pm
Subject: Re: mew member intro "Jimmy"

gcrimmins

If you already have a wood lathe and an air compressor, I don't think it would
be too expensive to make a set of pipes. You'll need a steady rest and a couple
of gun drills from E-Bay. I would suggest using hard maple for your first set.
It's not as dense as some woods used for pipes, but it's inexpensive and works
well enough. I would suggest buying the chanter reeds and probably the drone
reeds too. A conical chanter is fairly complex for your first attempt at making
pipes, but you could give it a try if you really want to. You could also build a
square chanter, along the lines of the square UP chanter seen on the Internet.
You also might consider just buying a used chanter. Before making pipes it might
be a good idea to make a practice chanter. It's a good learning experience and
something you'll need anyway.

--Geoff

#3937

From: David Valdes <valdesdavid@...>
Date: Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:27 pm
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

valdesdavid

Exactly, I had one made and costed about 600 euros. For the record, I'm not an
actual pipe-maker. I just enjoy spending time "trying" to make pipes, flutes and
whistles. Well, actually spanish pipes called "Gaita".

As a last resort I decided to make my own reamers using silversteel rods. This
process is very time-consuming, but it is also the cheapest.

You'll be able to find some pretty good gundrills on ebay. I just bought 4 for
less than 50 euros this week from Germany. It took me some time finding them
though.

Envoyé de mon iPhone

#3938

From: "tmalcolm" <tim@...>
Date: Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:51 pm
Subject: Re: mew member intro "Jimmy"

tmalcolm

When you're starting out use D-bits. They are cheap, easy to make, and very
effective when made well. As for wood, Maple is great for practice turnings, but
will deteriorate quickly when used as mouthblown pipe parts. Try Osage Orange.
It's also cheap and will actually make a quality lasting instrument if you get
the internals right.

--Tim.

#3939

From: Melodize <melodize@...>
Date: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:59 am
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

melodize

Hello group,

Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

I have hesitated to send anything 'cause I too, like Jimmy, am just at the beginning stage of getting everything together to start making my own set of pipes. I really don't want to bore (pun intended) anyone in the group who can say, "been there, done that at least 100 times". That being said, I'll jump right in 'cause I figure that any questions I have or raise may help others and maybe someday I can pay it forward.

I have been learning and playing the great highland pipes for 2 1/2 years now after finding a local band that teaches for free. Anyone who wants to learn can join the band, learn the pipes, and then play on the streets in parades. I recommend it for anyone who wants to learn to play the highland pipes. It has been lots of fun though sometimes frustrating. The learning curve seems rather long, at first. As far back as I can remember, I have always loved the sound of highland pipes. I have also learned how beautiful the Uilleann pipes sound and would love to at least attempt to learn them too. Wow, are they expensive! Although I already have a great set of highland pipes I bought used, I've thought it would be great to be able to play pipes I build myself. I still have to budget my time right now, putting a higher priority on improving my playing ability.

In the meantime, I have been starting to accumulate whatever information and equipment that I can. Any thoughts on prioritizing what to get next would be appreciated. I recently bought an old South Bend 9" metalworking lathe with 36" bed. I have been told by several machinist and woodworking buddies that a metal lathe is the way to go for the precision needed on hard, dense woods. A friend of mine from the band watched some pipemakers turn pipes in Scotland and said they used metal lathes.

I found and copied a set of plans for a set of pipes off the internet, copied from a very old set of pipes using Xrays. I don't have my shop set up yet but that is coming before the end of winter. I've accumulated numerous long drill bits of various diameters as well as cutting tools. I'll try to keep y'all posted as the shop gets set up and other tools get added and I start playing around with rudimentary attempts at pipes. Probably a PC first before a full set.

The first question that I have is where do you find all the caps, ferrules and projection mounts? I can see the projection mounts being made out of white delrin, but I don't see my skills being at the level of making caps and ferrules yet. Anyone know of resources? I think that I may start my first experiments with mesquite. I know, some are thinking, "Are you going to barbeque or are you making pipes?", but I've heard that it is a very stable wood with a low probability to crack and fairly cheap to turn into kindling when I (inevitably) mess up as opposed to some precious exotic wood like African Blackwood. Any thoughts?

Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

John (melodize) Swoyer

#3940

From: Stephen Anderson <ki4kym@...>
Date: Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:31 am
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

sa_1248

I'm never one to do things the easy way nor the standard way. I decided to learn how to make pipes when a piece of an antique set of pipes developed a split and I got an estimate to repair it. I now have 3 sets of pipes >100 years old and have had a few others that have come and gone from the collection.

I use a Delta Midi wood lathe, German manufactured standard drill bits. No gun drills or reamers. I don't question the quality of either of these innovations nor their benefits in making pipes. But after seeing the bores of my 1870's David Glen pipes and hearing the beautiful buzz that comes out of them, I figured that glass bore was not an issue and if so, then I could always brass line everything.

That said, my lathe was 470$ new. I use a roughing gouge, parting tool, and fingernail gouge to shape the exteriors - about 75$ each. Add to this a steady rest/stabilizer at $79 and a drill chuck at 46$ and that about summarizes my setup. About $900 including tax. It is fun and what you may consider is to focus on the proper interiors versus over focusing on the eventual necessity of nice finishing.

-- ah, I did forget to include the $45 i spent on 30 TPI manual thread chasers to thread the mounts, ferrules, caps, and rings.

I wonder, John, if you might share the link to the Xrays you mention. I have made X-Rays of my Hendersons, J&R Glens, Sinclairs, and Thows and haven't seen any others floating about.

For my estimation, generic Lignum Vitae sells for $12 per 1.5x1.5x24 length and this is enough to make two tenor tops or a complete tenor top, bottom, and stock. Great wood to work, even green and it hardens quite nicely. It does shrink a little if you make your pieces while it is wet, but the first experimental set that I made still play nicely and tune easily. Cutting it wet will not dull your tools as much but I only recommend using LV wet as a practice exercise.

The point is, expect to waste a few pieces of wood learning to bore evenly, a few more learning to shape the outside to consistency, a few more learning to comb evenly, and still more if you wish to manually bead.

It is a hobby, right? Have fun, experiment, and learn.

Just my 2 cents.

Stephen

On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Melodize <melodize@...> wrote:

Hello group,
    Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.
    I have hesitated to send anything 'cause I too, like Jimmy, am just at the beginning stage of getting everything together to start making my own set of pipes. I really don't want to bore (pun intended) anyone in the group who can say, "been there, done that at least 100 times". That being said, I'll jump right in 'cause I figure that any questions I have or raise may help others and maybe someday I can pay it forward.

    I have been learning and playing the great highland pipes for 2 1/2 years now after finding a local band that teaches for free. Anyone who wants to learn can join the band, learn the pipes, and then play on the streets in parades. I recommend it for anyone who wants to learn to play the highland pipes. It has been lots of fun though sometimes frustrating. The learning curve seems rather long, at first. As far back as I can remember, I have always loved the sound of highland pipes. I have also learned how beautiful the Uilleann pipes sound and would love to at least attempt to learn them too. Wow, are they expensive! Although I already have a great set of highland pipes I bought used, I've thought it would be great to be able to play pipes I build myself. I still have to budget my time right now, putting a higher priority on improving my playing ability.

    In the meantime, I have been starting to accumulate whatever information and equipment that I can. Any thoughts on prioritizing what to get next would be appreciated. I recently bought an old South Bend 9" metalworking lathe with 36" bed. I have been told by several machinist and woodworking buddies that a metal lathe is the way to go for the precision needed on hard, dense woods. A friend of mine from the band watched some pipemakers turn pipes in Scotland and said they used metal lathes.

     I found and copied a set of plans for a set of pipes off the internet, copied from a very old set of pipes using Xrays. I don't have my shop set up yet but that is coming before the end of winter. I've accumulated numerous long drill bits of various diameters as well as cutting tools. I'll try to keep y'all posted as the shop gets set up and other tools get added and I start playing around with rudimentary attempts at pipes. Probably a PC first before a full set.
    The first question that I have is where do you find all the caps, ferrules and projection mounts? I can see the projection mounts being made out of white delrin, but I don't see my skills being at the level of making caps and ferrules yet. Anyone know of resources? I think that I may start my first experiments with mesquite. I know, some are thinking, "Are you going to barbeque or are you making pipes?", but I've heard that it is a very stable wood with a low probability to crack and fairly cheap to turn into kindling when I (inevitably) mess up as opposed to some precious exotic wood like African Blackwood. Any thoughts?

    Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,
    John (melodize) Swoyer

--
Stephen E Anderson

Vigilia aeterna pretium libertatis est.

'I sall be leille and treu to you my Leige Lord Schire James King of Scots, and not heir your skaith, nor see it, but I sall let it at all my power, and warn you thereof; Your counsaill heile that you shaw me, the best counsaile I can to give you when ze charge me. In verbo Dei, and als help me God, and holy evangells.'

#3941

From: Alonso Chattan <achattan@...>
Date: Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:51 am
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

achattan

You can make fittings from brass pipe. There are several companies that make brass tubing in many sizes or stainless steel and copper, depending on what metal you want to use. Hobby tubing stops short of 3/4 inch in O.D. You will need to track down a dealer that can supply you with what you want. Not difficult. Just takes a little bit of time on the web.

Many very nice fittings can be made from artificial horn or ivory or a contrasting wood to whatever you are using for the pipes themselves. Again, type in imitation ivory and you will get a couple of sites that sell the size you want. You can even use antler which is readily available. I don't care for the smell when turning it but it is a renewable resource and plentiful. Taxidermy shops can probably supply you with antler and they also sell resins that you can cast into a shape to turn or in a finished shape if you make a master and make a silicone casting. All pretty straight forward stuff. Only downside is cost. That is why you need to shop several sites. Some companies have minimum orders but others cater to small orders. Don't forget eBay. You never know what you may find on it. I have found brass tubing but it is a matter of luck as to what is available at any given time.

Good hunting.

Alonso

From: Melodize <melodize@...>
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 4:59 PM
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello group,

Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

John (melodize) Swoyer

#3942

From: Seth Hamon <texasbagpiper@...>
Date: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:09 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

texasbagpiper

Specialshapes.com

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 27, 2012, at 10:51 PM, Alonso Chattan <achattan@...> wrote:

You can make fittings from brass pipe. There are several companies that make brass tubing in many sizes or stainless steel and copper, depending on what metal you want to use. Hobby tubing stops short of 3/4 inch in O.D. You will need to track down a dealer that can supply you with what you want. Not difficult. Just takes a little bit of time on the web.
Many very nice fittings can be made from artificial horn or ivory or a contrasting wood to whatever you are using for the pipes themselves. Again, type in imitation ivory and you will get a couple of sites that sell the size you want. You can even use antler which is readily available. I don't care for the smell when turning it but it is a renewable resource and plentiful. Taxidermy shops can probably supply you with antler and they also sell resins that you can cast into a shape to turn or in a finished shape if you make a master and make a silicone casting. All pretty straight forward stuff. Only downside is cost. That is why you need to shop several sites. Some companies have minimum orders but others cater to small orders. Don't forget eBay. You never know what you may find on it. I have found brass tubing but it is a matter of luck as to what is available at any given time.
Good hunting.
Alonso

From: Melodize <melodize@...>
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 4:59 PM
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello group,
    Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.
    I have hesitated to send anything 'cause I too, like Jimmy, am just at the beginning stage of getting everything together to start making my own set of pipes. I really don't want to bore (pun intended) anyone in the group who can say, "been there, done that at least 100 times". That being said, I'll jump right in 'cause I figure that any questions I have or raise may help others and maybe someday I can pay it forward.
    I have been learning and playing the great highland pipes for 2 1/2 years now after finding a local band that teaches for free. Anyone who wants to learn can join the band, learn the pipes, and then play on the streets in parades. I recommend it for anyone who wants to learn to play the highland pipes. It has been lots of fun though sometimes frustrating. The learning curve seems rather long, at first. As far back as I can remember, I have always loved the sound of highland pipes. I have also learned how beautiful the Uilleann pipes sound and would love to at least attempt to learn them too. Wow, are they expensive! Although I already have a great set of highland pipes I bought used, I've thought it would be great to be able to play pipes I build myself. I still have to budget my time right now, putting a higher priority on improving my playing ability.
    In the meantime, I have been starting to accumulate whatever information and equipment that I can. Any thoughts on prioritizing what to get next would be appreciated. I recently bought an old South Bend 9" metalworking lathe with 36" bed. I have been told by several machinist and woodworking buddies that a metal lathe is the way to go for the precision needed on hard, dense woods. A friend of mine from the band watched some pipemakers turn pipes in Scotland and said they used metal lathes.
     I found and copied a set of plans for a set of pipes off the internet, copied from a very old set of pipes using Xrays. I don't have my shop set up yet but that is coming before the end of winter. I've accumulated numerous long drill bits of various diameters as well as cutting tools. I'll try to keep y'all posted as the shop gets set up and other tools get added and I start playing around with rudimentary attempts at pipes. Probably a PC first before a full set.
    The first question that I have is where do you find all the caps, ferrules and projection mounts? I can see the projection mounts being made out of white delrin, but I don't see my skills being at the level of making caps and ferrules yet. Anyone know of resources? I think that I may start my first experiments with mesquite. I know, some are thinking, "Are you going to barbeque or are you making pipes?", but I've heard that it is a very stable wood with a low probability to crack and fairly cheap to turn into kindling when I (inevitably) mess up as opposed to some precious exotic wood like African Blackwood. Any thoughts?
    Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,
    John (melodize) Swoyer

#3943

From: Tim Malcolm <tim@...>
Date: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:44 pm
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

tmalcolm

onlinemetals.com

For a cap, braze a flat piece to the end of a tube, or try metal spinning.

Imitation Ivory available from Masecraft (this is the stuff from GPS
Agencies which most brand name makers use)
http://www.masecraftsupply.com/index.html

My preference is to make all Imitation Ivory or all wood ferrules,
mounts and caps. When worried about strength I put a thin walled brass
tube on, giving
    drone piece -> brass tube -> wooden ferrule/mount/cap

--Tim

#3944

From: Seth Hamon <texasbagpiper@...>
Date: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:58 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

texasbagpiper

Yep, I use those guys for tool steel and stainless. Seth

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 28, 2012, at 9:44 AM, Tim Malcolm <tim@...> wrote:

onlinemetals.com

For a cap, braze a flat piece to the end of a tube, or try metal spinning.

Imitation Ivory available from Masecraft (this is the stuff from GPS
Agencies which most brand name makers use)
http://www.masecraftsupply.com/index.html

My preference is to make all Imitation Ivory or all wood ferrules,
mounts and caps. When worried about strength I put a thin walled brass
tube on, giving
drone piece -> brass tube -> wooden ferrule/mount/cap

--Tim

#3945

From: Angus Hoban <manxpiper@...>
Date: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:17 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

manxpiper

Hello

Thought I might just add a my pennys worth, I been through this learning curve and still going through it too !

Have been through hours of frustration, been through all the making of D bits etc. eventually turning out a decent set of pipes !

Most proffesional pipe makers seem to hold information close to their chests.. reluctant to give out information.

Best thing i have ever spent money on is some decent gun drills , if theres just one you can afford got for a 4mm. can be used as a pilot drill or if making small pipes , i make all bored 4mm. Hammond tools in the UK will supply one specially ground for drilling hard wood.

My advice to anyone is to start with a set of small pipes, if you mess up a piece of wood, no great loss, I have used Mopane, its a lot cheaper than blackwood to start with , it works much like blackwood but easier and is good for pipemaking. I have made mounts on my small pipes with odd pieces of blackwood, no wasteage in my shop !

I have had good results with my own flat stock reamers for highland pipe chanters, you dont need expensive equipment to make these either, angle grinder, and a few files, good quality tool steel will stay hard for many chanters !

Hope this is some help to those just starting out, stick with it, its well worth it in the end !

Angus

From: Melodize <melodize@...>
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2012, 0:59
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello group,

Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

John (melodize) Swoyer

#3946

From: "Grim_piper" <marcpipes23@...>
Date: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:05 pm
Subject: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

marcpipes31

Hi, Jimmy.  I'm Marc.  Do you go to Pennsic? If so, I belong to Leisure Guild. 
I'm their piper.
As far as a first project, start with a practice chanter.
After that, I would suggest smallpipes in A.
For leather, Tandy cowhide 9111 is a good one to make bags from.
If you have the chance to find a teacher in the area, it would not hurt to get
lessons.  They may also be able to put you onto a less expensive set of big
pipes when the time comes.

#3947

From: "Jim Cameron " <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hi Marc,

No I have not been to Pennsic yet. However much of my leather work has. My Lady and I want to wait until our three girls were all of age. One more to go and it wont be long. Unless I happen to win Northshield crown, but after 25 years of getting hit with a big stick to as fighters say were not trying to hurt him just kill um. LOL! I don’t fight as much. Do a lot of teaching to the young up and coming fighters now and a tournament every now and again. Not like I used to every weekend as I once did. However I cross swords with his grace ziggy ever practice and or event I can.

Jimmy

From: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Grim_piper
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 3:05 PM
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hi, Jimmy. I'm Marc. Do you go to Pennsic? If so, I belong to Leisure Guild. I'm their piper.
As far as a first project, start with a practice chanter.
After that, I would suggest smallpipes in A.
For leather, Tandy cowhide 9111 is a good one to make bags from.
If you have the chance to find a teacher in the area, it would not hurt to get lessons. They may also be able to put you onto a less expensive set of big pipes when the time comes.

#3948

From: "Jim Cameron " <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hi Steven,

Thanks fir the post and posting in a most fostering way. yes John I to was wondering if you could post the link as well ? Yep your right Steven it as least for me is a hobby.

Jimmy

From: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Stephen Anderson
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 8:32 PM
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Melodize <melodize@...> wrote:

Hello group,

Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

John (melodize) Swoyer

#3949

From: "Jim Cameron " <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hi John

Sounds like you have a plan. Glad I helped you overcome your unsureness about posting beleave me I now how that feels. I have learned a long time ago everyone starts some were, I also learned that those that would give a newbie a hard time are not the best teachers and have tended to forget were they started. Ask away that’s how we learn and we never stop learning no matter how old one gets or how good one gets at whatever.

Jimmy

From: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Melodize
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 6:59 PM
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello group,

Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

John (melodize) Swoyer

#3950

From: "Jim Cameron " <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm
Subject: RE: Re: mew member intro "Jimmy"

Hi Tim,

Thanks for both tips. I will refine my search for bits and Maple is easy to get and as you said fairly cheap so when I mess up it would not be a big deal or that costly. Cool

Jimmy

From: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tmalcolm
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 10:51 AM
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: mew member intro "Jimmy"

When you're starting out use D-bits. They are cheap, easy to make, and very effective when made well. As for wood, Maple is great for practice turnings, but will deteriorate quickly when used as mouthblown pipe parts. Try Osage Orange. It's also cheap and will actually make a quality lasting instrument if you get the internals right.

--Tim.

#3951

From: "Jim Cameron " <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm
Subject: RE: Re: mew member intro "Jimmy"

Hi,

I don’t have a lathe right now a friend of mine does. I had planed on buying the chanter and drone reeds and the chanter. I have been watching gun drills on e bay for a while now. I have to check out the square UP chanter. I have not run across that in my surfing to find info on pipe making and a teacher

Jimmy

From: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gcrimmins
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 9:30 AM
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: mew member intro "Jimmy"

If you already have a wood lathe and an air compressor, I don't think it would be too expensive to make a set of pipes. You'll need a steady rest and a couple of gun drills from E-Bay. I would suggest using hard maple for your first set. It's not as dense as some woods used for pipes, but it's inexpensive and works well enough. I would suggest buying the chanter reeds and probably the drone reeds too. A conical chanter is fairly complex for your first attempt at making pipes, but you could give it a try if you really want to. You could also build a square chanter, along the lines of the square UP chanter seen on the Internet. You also might consider just buying a used chanter. Before making pipes it might be a good idea to make a practice chanter. It's a good learning experience and something you'll need anyway.

--Geoff

#3952

From: "Jim Cameron " <kc9pxz@...>
Date: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Thanks for the link I will check out the link. I heard in some case ploy works pretty well

Jimmy

From: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smithdadof4
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 7:48 AM
To: amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Dear Jimmy -

Like you, the dream of making pipes is one that I share, although I haven't, "... gotten around to it, yet." This year, I promise. I have already picked up some Delrin plastic and plan to start by making some plastic practice chanters. I know the properties are different from ABW, etc., but it seems the best way to start learning and tooling.

As a Grade 1/Professional level player, I suggest that playing will help your turning more than vice versa. Once you learn how reeds, tuning and over-tones work, the art and science of seasoning, turning, boring and reaming will make a lot more sense. You will be able to appreciate why certain things are made the way they are - why the tradition 'works'. Check out the "Events Page at the Mid-West Pipe Band Association to locate events, players and *teachers* - www.mwpba.org Expect to travel about an hour to find a teacher up in your area - anything closer is a bonus!

Don't discount your leather experience, either. Well made bags are always sought after, and with the interest in cauld wind pipes, bags, bellows and straps might be something you could offer to those making the sticks.

And don't give up the dream! I met a fellow American piper while slumping around Scotland at an Edinburgh youth hostel in 1980. We were both experienced pipers (Grade 2 and 20 years old ... invinceable). Five years later we were playing in NYC together and I played at his wedding - he had finally set up his shop and hired (partnered with) his own master teacher. Charley Kron has made some of the best pipes this side of the Atlantic and trained some other great makers.

Welcome to the group. I have learned a ton of information here - enough to fuel my desire, but with cautionary experience.

Edward Smith
Paris, TN

#3953

From: Sean Dillon <seanydillon@...>
Date: Tue Jan 31, 2012 6:42 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

seanydillon

HI Angus,

Think the reamer will be finished tonight, with a bit of luck, the turning is finished and jut to grind it down now and sharpen tomorrow. I'm amazed I got it finished with the broken bracket so delighted only hope we can get something good from the reamer. Will have to make another 2 small reamers to help the change in angles within the bore, but they will be easy as the main reamer is finished.

Hopefully catch you later. Will have to get a couple of lengths of silver steel to weld together to clear the length of the chanter to the throat.

Sean

From: Angus Hoban <manxpiper@...>
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 29 January 2012, 12:17:48
Subject: Re: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello

Thought I might just add a my pennys worth, I been through this learning curve and still going through it too !

Have been through hours of frustration, been through all the making of D bits etc. eventually turning out a decent set of pipes !

Most proffesional pipe makers seem to hold information close to their chests.. reluctant to give out information.

Hope this is some help to those just starting out, stick with it, its well worth it in the end !

Angus

Hello group,

Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

John (melodize) Swoyer

#3954

From: Seth <texasbagpiper@...>
Date: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jimmy's intro/Reamers

texasbagpiper

I respect what you guys are doing. I'm a lazy reamer maker. I make simple flat tool steel scraper reamers and follow those with custom made spiral fluted reamers. Kudos to you guys.

Cheers, Seth Hamon
www.SwedishBagpipes.com
Maker of Scottish, Irish, and Swedish Bagpipes.

--- On Tue, 1/31/12, Sean Dillon <seanydillon@...> wrote:

From: Sean Dillon <seanydillon@...>
Subject: Re: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 31, 2012, 12:42 PM

HI Angus,

Think the reamer will be finished tonight, with a bit of luck, the turning is finished and jut to grind it down now and sharpen tomorrow. I'm amazed I got it finished with the broken bracket so delighted only hope we can get something good from the reamer. Will have to make another 2 small reamers to help the change in angles within the bore, but they will be easy as the main reamer is finished.

Hopefully catch you later. Will have to get a couple of lengths of silver steel to weld together to clear the length of the chanter to the throat.

Sean

From: Angus Hoban <manxpiper@...>
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 29 January 2012, 12:17:48
Subject: Re: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello

Thought I might just add a my pennys worth, I been through this learning curve and still going through it too !

Have been through hours of frustration, been through all the making of D bits etc. eventually turning out a decent set of pipes !

Most proffesional pipe makers seem to hold information close to their chests.. reluctant to give out information.

Best thing i have ever spent money on is some decent gun drills , if theres just one you can afford got for a 4mm. can be used as a pilot drill or if making small pipes , i make all bored 4mm. Hammond tools in the UK will supply one specially ground for drilling hard wood.

My advice to anyone is to start with a set of small pipes, if you mess up a piece of wood, no great loss, I have used Mopane, its a lot cheaper than blackwood to start with , it works much like blackwood but easier and is good for pipemaking. I have made mounts on my small pipes with odd pieces of blackwood, no wasteage in my shop !

I have had good results with my own flat stock reamers for highland pipe chanters, you dont need expensive equipment to make these either, angle grinder, and a few files, good quality tool steel will stay hard for many chanters !

Hope this is some help to those just starting out, stick with it, its well worth it in the end !

Angus

From: Melodize <melodize@...>
To: "amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com" <amateurbagpipemakers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2012, 0:59
Subject: [amateurbagpipemakers] Re: Jimmy's intro re post (repost)

Hello group,

    Greetings from the Mason Dixon Line.

    I have hesitated to send anything 'cause I too, like Jimmy, am just at the beginning stage of getting everything together to start making my own set of pipes. I really don't want to bore (pun intended) anyone in the group who can say, "been there, done that at least 100 times". That being said, I'll jump right in 'cause I figure that any questions I have or raise may help others and maybe someday I can pay it forward.

    I have been learning and playing the great highland pipes for 2 1/2 years now after finding a local band that teaches for free. Anyone who wants to learn can join the band, learn the pipes, and then play on the streets in parades. I recommend it for anyone who wants to learn to play the highland pipes. It has been lots of fun though sometimes frustrating. The learning curve seems rather long, at first. As far back as I can remember, I have always loved the sound of highland pipes. I have also learned how beautiful the Uilleann pipes sound and would love to at least attempt to learn them too. Wow, are they expensive! Although I already have a great set of highland pipes I bought used, I've thought it would be great to be able to play pipes I build myself. I still have to budget my time right now, putting a higher priority on improving my playing ability.

    In the meantime, I have been starting to accumulate whatever information and equipment that I can. Any thoughts on prioritizing what to get next would be appreciated. I recently bought an old South Bend 9" metalworking lathe with 36" bed. I have been told by several machinist and woodworking buddies that a metal lathe is the way to go for the precision needed on hard, dense woods. A friend of mine from the band watched some pipemakers turn pipes in Scotland and said they used metal lathes.

     I found and copied a set of plans for a set of pipes off the internet, copied from a very old set of pipes using Xrays. I don't have my shop set up yet but that is coming before the end of winter. I've accumulated numerous long drill bits of various diameters as well as cutting tools. I'll try to keep y'all posted as the shop gets set up and other tools get added and I start playing around with rudimentary attempts at pipes. Probably a PC first before a full set.

    The first question that I have is where do you find all the caps, ferrules and projection mounts? I can see the projection mounts being made out of white delrin, but I don't see my skills being at the level of making caps and ferrules yet. Anyone know of resources? I think that I may start my first experiments with mesquite. I know, some are thinking, "Are you going to barbeque or are you making pipes?", but I've heard that it is a very stable wood with a low probability to crack and fairly cheap to turn into kindling when I (inevitably) mess up as opposed to some precious exotic wood like African Blackwood. Any thoughts?

    Anyway, now that I have thrown that all out, I'll pipe down and let others put their 2 cents in. By the way. Jimmy, thanks for giving me the courage to speak up.

Bye for now,

    John (melodize) Swoyer

#3955

From: "gcrimmins" <gcrimmins@...>
Date: Tue Feb 7, 2012 8:48 pm
Subject: Keyless NSP chanter

gcrimmins

I was looking at the plans for a keyless NSP chanter in the Cocks and Bryan
book, thinking it might be a fun chanter to make. Has anyone here made it, or
heard anything about it?  Any thoughts about how to reed it? I do OK with single
reeds for drones, but I can't make a double-reed to save my life.

--Geoff

Reply | Messages in this Topic (2)

#3956

From: "gcrimmins" <gcrimmins@...>
Date: Tue Feb 7, 2012 8:54 pm
Subject: Single chanter reed

gcrimmins

I recently had the opportunity to hear a Welsh pibgorn (hornpipe.) The musician
playing it says it uses a single reed almost identical to those used in a
Swedish bagpipe. I'm wondering if anyone here has any information about making
such a reed. I'm guessing it's similar to making a synthetic drone reed.

--Geoff

Reply | Messages in this Topic (2)

#3957

From: Seth <texasbagpiper@...>
Date: Tue Feb 7, 2012 9:16 pm
Subject: Re: Keyless NSP chanter

texasbagpiper