Maria here,
95 S-10 extended cab
lowered 2-3 going on a 5-6 drop
stereo
ultra tristars 15 in going on billet style 17in

--- "IH8bumps juno.com" <ih8bumps@...> wrote:
> From: "IH8bumps juno.com" <ih8bumps@...>
>
> What kind of trucks do the members on this list
> have? What mods do you
> have done to your truck?
> Lowered? Lifted? Stock? Ect...
>
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=====
Maria Genser
Screet Ho's KC Metro Chapter

I am about 50 miles north of Atlanta. Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: Maria Genser <hers10@...>
To: <all-minitrucks@onelist.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: [all-minitrucks] Club Info


> From: Maria Genser <hers10@...>
>
> Screet Ho's are in Albany,GA.  Is that near you?
> Maria
>
> --- Lownloud 94 <lownloud@...> wrote:
> > From: "Lownloud 94" <lownloud@...>
> >
> > Can anybody tell me if their are any Clubs in North
> > Georgia ?    thanks       Lownloud 94
> >
> >
> > [Attachments have been removed from this message]
> >
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>
>
> =====
> Maria Genser
> Screet Ho's KC Metro Chapter
> > Community email addresses:
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Screet Ho's are in Albany,GA.  Is that near you?
Maria

--- Lownloud 94 <lownloud@...> wrote:
> From: "Lownloud 94" <lownloud@...>
>
> Can anybody tell me if their are any Clubs in North
> Georgia ?    thanks       Lownloud 94
>
>
> [Attachments have been removed from this message]
>
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=====
Maria Genser
Screet Ho's KC Metro Chapter

What kind of trucks do the members on this list have? What mods do you
have done to your truck?
Lowered? Lifted? Stock? Ect...

I bought a toyota 85 4-runner new havent done anything to it stock. It has
327000 miles on it still going strong never had any major work done on it. It
has never had a wrench on the motor except for an exhaust leak last year, and
normal tuneup ,oilchange ever 3000-5000 miles. I would buy another new one if I
could get that kind of service out off it.    cya later

Thanks!

--- "Wright, Larry" <larry.wright@...> wrote:
> From: "Wright, Larry" <larry.wright@...>
>
>  Hey, Mini-Truck Folk! The list is only 5 days old
> and already up
> to 14 members.
>
> Maria Genser wrote:
> >A friend of mine has a 98 Ford Ranger and doesn't
> >want to do much to it, not even lower it, but he
> >does want to put ground effects on it and a new
> >grille and smooth bumper.
>
>  Hold that thought, Maria. There's a Ford Pickup
> list on OneList,
> and over the next few days I'll _infiltrate_ and see
> if I can recruit a
> couple of Ranger Dudes. I was hesitant to do so
> earlier, I guess I was
> afraid of those Texan F-150 owners with their
> six-shooters. :^)
>
> Krause wrote:
> >This is new member Rod . I just bought a 92 S10
> >2wd 5spd w/ 2.8L V6. Its my 1st truck. I needed it
> >to move my daughter back to school this fall (good
> >excuse, huh?). I'm enjoying the vehicle, but I'm
> not
> >used to rear drive with no weight in back. I almost
>
> >lost it on an onramp when I hit a bump. It scared
> the
> >heck out of me. How can I improve handling? Or is
> >this just the way these are supposed to behave?
>
>  Hiya, Rod, and welcome. Yeah, this is a design
> compromise of all
> minitrucks, except perhaps my old Dodge Rampage
> which, being FWD, didn't
> seem to care that the back half of the truck was
> even there at all.
>  You could try to change the weight distribution.
> This will help
> when you drive in snow, too, giving you more weight
> over the driving
> wheels. My brother had a 1975 Datsun truck, and had
> a 4" diameter "pipe
> bumper" made up, Gasser-style, and then made up a
> cylindrical concrete
> bar he could slide inside for the winter. He had to
> remove a screw-on
> end-cap to install/remove it; it seemed to help. I
> was also kidding my
> father-in-law about his new Toyota Tacoma, he said
> it rode better with a
> couple hundred pounds in back. I suggested bars of
> lead bolted to the
> frame. Dang it, I forgot he has access to such
> things, I think he'll go
> through with it! I have avoided adding weight
> myself, as my 92 'Yota (4
> cyl) doesn't have a lot of HP as it is, and I don't
> want it any slower.
>  You could stiffen the front suspension a mite, add
> understeer;
> maybe easiest by changing the front swaybar bushings
> over to poly
> (cheap) if they're not already so. Your problem
> really isn't oversteer
> per se, but the rapid transition from one to the
> other; but it might
> help. Feel free to ask if the terms are new to you.
>  A leaf spring absorbs and releases loads, not only
> up-and-down,
> but a little bit side-to-side as well. around a
> ramp, your flexing the
> springs, loading them up, with the rear bodywork
> going outward but the
> tires resisting. When you run out of grip back
> there, or hit a bump, the
> spring wants to 'snap back' under the truck, so you
> lose traction pretty
> quick; no gradual transition that you can easily
> 'catch' with a flick of
> the wheel. One item that helps that is a Panhard
> rod. I don't know how
> much you know about cars, it's named for some guy
> who started making
> cars back in the late 1800's. It's a bar that's
> attached to the rear
> axle on one side, runs parallel to the rear axle,
> then attached to the
> frame one the other, bushings or joints at both ends
> of course. This
> allows free movement up and down, but won't let the
> axle move left or
> right. Therefore, you get a more controlled
> breakaway, instead of
> all-arms-and-elbows. I'm thinking of adding one
> eventually, as I'm
> lowering my truck using blocks in the back, and if
> you think about it,
> hard cornering will put a lot of side load on the
> U-bolts that will now
> be much longer to accommodate the blocks. They're
> available as a weld-on
> accessory, maybe even as a bolt-on, but I don't know
> from where right
> off the top of my head.
>  Oh, yeah; fatter tires in the back could help too.
> It did for me
> in the dry but not in the wet
> Larry
>
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=====
Maria Genser
Screet Ho's KC Metro Chapter

Hey, Mini-Truck Folk! The list is only 5 days old and already up
to 14 members.

Maria Genser wrote:
>A friend of mine has a 98 Ford Ranger and doesn't
>want to do much to it, not even lower it, but he
>does want to put ground effects on it and a new
>grille and smooth bumper.

	 Hold that thought, Maria. There's a Ford Pickup list on OneList,
and over the next few days I'll _infiltrate_ and see if I can recruit a
couple of Ranger Dudes. I was hesitant to do so earlier, I guess I was
afraid of those Texan F-150 owners with their six-shooters. :^)

Krause wrote:
>This is new member Rod . I just bought a 92 S10
>2wd 5spd w/ 2.8L V6. Its my 1st truck. I needed it
>to move my daughter back to school this fall (good
>excuse, huh?). I'm enjoying the vehicle, but I'm not
>used to rear drive with no weight in back. I almost
>lost it on an onramp when I hit a bump. It scared the
>heck out of me. How can I improve handling? Or is
>this just the way these are supposed to behave?

	 Hiya, Rod, and welcome. Yeah, this is a design compromise of all
minitrucks, except perhaps my old Dodge Rampage which, being FWD, didn't
seem to care that the back half of the truck was even there at all.
	 You could try to change the weight distribution. This will help
when you drive in snow, too, giving you more weight over the driving
wheels. My brother had a 1975 Datsun truck, and had a 4" diameter "pipe
bumper" made up, Gasser-style, and then made up a cylindrical concrete
bar he could slide inside for the winter. He had to remove a screw-on
end-cap to install/remove it; it seemed to help. I was also kidding my
father-in-law about his new Toyota Tacoma, he said it rode better with a
couple hundred pounds in back. I suggested bars of lead bolted to the
frame. Dang it, I forgot he has access to such things, I think he'll go
through with it! I have avoided adding weight myself, as my 92 'Yota (4
cyl) doesn't have a lot of HP as it is, and I don't want it any slower.
	 You could stiffen the front suspension a mite, add understeer;
maybe easiest by changing the front swaybar bushings over to poly
(cheap) if they're not already so. Your problem really isn't oversteer
per se, but the rapid transition from one to the other; but it might
help. Feel free to ask if the terms are new to you.
	 A leaf spring absorbs and releases loads, not only up-and-down,
but a little bit side-to-side as well. around a ramp, your flexing the
springs, loading them up, with the rear bodywork going outward but the
tires resisting. When you run out of grip back there, or hit a bump, the
spring wants to 'snap back' under the truck, so you lose traction pretty
quick; no gradual transition that you can easily 'catch' with a flick of
the wheel. One item that helps that is a Panhard rod. I don't know how
much you know about cars, it's named for some guy who started making
cars back in the late 1800's. It's a bar that's attached to the rear
axle on one side, runs parallel to the rear axle, then attached to the
frame one the other, bushings or joints at both ends of course. This
allows free movement up and down, but won't let the axle move left or
right. Therefore, you get a more controlled breakaway, instead of
all-arms-and-elbows. I'm thinking of adding one eventually, as I'm
lowering my truck using blocks in the back, and if you think about it,
hard cornering will put a lot of side load on the U-bolts that will now
be much longer to accommodate the blocks. They're available as a weld-on
accessory, maybe even as a bolt-on, but I don't know from where right
off the top of my head.
	 Oh, yeah; fatter tires in the back could help too. It did for me
in the dry but not in the wet
Larry

HI
This is new member Rod . I just bought a 92 S10  2wd 5spd w/ 2.8L V6. Its my
1st truck. I needed it to move my daughter back to school this fall(good
excuse , huh?).
I'm enjoying the vehicle, but I'm not used to rear drive with no weight in
back. I almost lost it on an onramp when I hit a bump. It scared the heck
out of me. How can I improve handling? Or is this just the way these are
supposed to behave?
Thanks
>
>

Can anybody tell me if their are any Clubs in North Georgia ?    thanks      
Lownloud 94

A few minutes ago, we just had our 10th new subscriber to the
list -- sorry, dude, no cash prizes. I'm sure he'll introduce himself
momentarily, but in the interim, I'll offer some random thoughts I
posted elsewhere a while back:
-----------------------------------------
	 Just conversationally, I'll offer some observations on mini
ownership, having driven my 'Yota shortbed for 7 years as of this week.
First, some minuses:
- Even on a 'base' truck, leaving off both a trip odo _and_ a tenth's
column from the odometer is just too cheap. Can't enter this vehicle in
any TSD rallies...
- Those little escutcheons where the interior door locks stick up to
lock/unlock the doors don't stay put; nor do they on any other Toyota
product I've seen. Also, the seatbelts won't retract anymore. These may
be Toyota-specific problems.
- The seatback's rake is way to far back, and it's fixed at that angle;
I am always driving slouched forward (I have long legs and short arms).
- A shortbed mini is great for driving from a maneuverability
standpoint, but the interior storage space is poor. At least my old
Dodge Rampage had some storage space behind the seats.
- I just cannot bring myself to charge into corners in the wet. I'm
always certain that the rear end will come abruptly loose & I won't be
able to catch it. Thanks to hurricane Dennis, that's been every day for
the past week! :^)
- Airflow inside the truck, well, _isn't_. Nothing but buffeting where
air comes in through an open side window and immediately hits the back
glass. A slider might help. Or, has anybody seen/tried the
slide-up-and-down unit advertised in MiniTruckin'?
- Some genius on the assembly line left a nut or bolt in some channel
under the vehicle, and sometimes it rolls back and forth in corners.
- Annoying engine noise on start-up; I understand most/all Toyotas have
this. The timing chain tensioner is hydraulic needs a few seconds
to"pump up" before the motor quiets down. I had it replaced once ($$$),
tried OEM-only oil filters, changed to synthetic oil waaaay back,
nothing helps.
Offset by pluses:
- Cheap! The depreciation alone for one year on a new Lexus would have
paid for my truck. At 46k miles I could still get 50-60% of my
investment back.
- Simple. Few parts, all easy to get to. Easiest oil filter to reach on
any _new_ vehicle I've owned in some time. I think the shocks took 1-1/2
hours to change.
- Handles better than it looks like it would; I think that's more a
function of low weight than suspension design. Some days I miss power
steering, though.
- Lots of aftermarket stuff available. While agree that show vehicles
should show more "uniqueness" than bolt-on parts will provide, for us
street drivers, it helps that someone else has already done the
engineering for many upgrades.
- Reverse snob appeal. I _could_ drive an Acura or something, but
there's something virtuous, almost Puritanical, about driving a 'basic'
vehicle.
- Couldn't take an Acura to the dump! :^)
Larry

Have not seen any yet ? Sometimes their is little change from year to year.

Always Remember If It's To Low And To Low Your To Old!!!!!!
Lownloud 94

.
>



>


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Hi all!
A friend of mine has a 98 Ford Ranger and doesn't want
to do much to it, not even lower it, but he does want
to put ground effects on it and a new grille and
smooth bumper.

He's looked up a bunch of places on the internet and
mini truckin magazine.  Does anyone know where he
could find these parts?  Most of them can be found for
97 and under but not the 98 models.

Thanks for any help!

Maria
Screet Ho's KC Metro Chapter

=====

As of this AM, we're up to 9 subscribers (and I'm working on a
10th but I haven't figured how to get someone on-board from e-mail only
w/out web access); and I think I recognize the e-mail address of our
newest subscriber. Scott, if that's you, you gave me good detailed
advice on suspension set-up back on 03/29/99; welcome to all-minitrucks.
You probably missed my 1,400 word epic on header and exhaust
installation, perhaps just as well. :^)
	 Yesterday I semi-spammed the Dodge Rampage and Toyota T100
lists, looking to recruit a few more mini-truck folk, and today I'll try
a few more. There's a Toyota 4x4 list and _another_ S-10 list, and
that's just on OneList. At some point I'll start looking off-OneList for
lists to recruit from and I'm open to ideas.
	 Also, you might have noticed that at the end of the "list
description" on OneList I inserted a list of different kinds of
minitrucks. Heck, if anybody owns one, they _know_ they own a minitruck,
right? Well, I stuck that in so that if someone uses OneList's search
engine, and types in "Mazda", "Courier" or whatever, they'll get a 'hit'
on our list and perhaps try us out. Can anybody think of any small
trucks I've left out?
	 Sorry for all of the administrivia, but I'm trying to keep
everyone informed. Y'all are the "charter members" who've jumped on
before there were enough members to get 'threads' going all day. Not as
much excitement as joining a list with 150 members, eh? That'll change.
	 I don't have any interesting mini-truck news; I took a night off
from wrench-slinging and took my wife out to dinner -- in the Toyota.
She's starting to accept the increased sound level from the exhaust.

Larry

"IH8bumps juno.com" wrote:
>Try JC Whitney for the weather striping.
>@ www.jcwhitney.com

	 I hadn't thought of  'generic' sources. One other you might try
would be to pick up a copy of Hemmings Motor News. That's the thick,
phone-book-looking thing with a mustard-yellow cover in many bookstores
and newstands. It's a primary resource for the old-car hobbyists,
hundreds of pages of old cars, and parts, for sale. In the front is
extensive listings for tools, supplies, etc., and I've seen several ads
in there for "weatherstripping for _any_ car" -- and by that they might
mean anything from Borgwards to Hispano-Suizas. No reason to think some
of these companies wouldn't augment their sales to the old-car crowd by
having an extensive line of products for newer cars and trucks.

Larry

Try JC Whitney for the weather striping. @ www.jcwhitney.com

"Lownloud 94" wrote:
> I am looking for some weather-striping      doors,windows,
> etc. for a 1994 and up Chevy S-10 King Cabs. Any body help a
> fellow in need for parts?      THANKS     Lownloud 94

	 No idea, but I'd recommend hanging in there and reporting in a
few days. I'm hoping that some more recruitment efforts will mean far
more than the current membership of 7. So, if anyone has a question and
dosn't get help, don't despair; just re-post later.
	 1994? That's awfully new for weatherstripping to go bad, unless
it's just messed up from a paint job or something.

(This post is rather long, but you're getting off easy. My story
about my suspension/brake rebuild on the Sunbeam Tiger list is up to
15,000 words so far. I'll try to make it interesting. Perhaps someone
who hasn't been through this before will find it informative.)

	 Saturday I installed the header, hi-flow cat and 2.25" cat-back
exhaust on my 1992 Toyota shortbed pickup. A one-day job, more or less.
Overall, I'm happy with the results, with a few exceptions.
	 Actually, I started almost a week earlier. Each day, I'd go out
and spray all of the bolts, esp at the manifold, with WD40; figuring
that by the time Saturday rolled around the bolts would come off easily.
In most cases, I was right. I took extra care with the nuts holding the
manifold on as I certainly didn't to snap off any studs in the head!
They came off with almost no effort. Once the manifold was loose, I
tried getting the darn smog tube free as well. It sits right on the
manifold, and has two studs at 90 degrees to the manifold studs; no
amount of wiggling would get it off. So, I traced the tube it's attached
to around behind the engine, and found a small bolt holding a clamp
right at the back of the head, holding _that_ tube tight and flush.
Almost no finger/wrench room back there, but I managed to get it off,
and the tube then moved easily and far enough to pop the smog tube off
from in front of the manifold.
	 There's a clamp/hanger holding the exhaust to the side of the
transmission that is not re-used. I tried but could not get to the bolts
with the pip in place, so I detached the pipe from the bracket instead.
Easy, the bolt broke right off and the clamp fell into my hand. At this
point the front 1/2 of the exhaust was plenty loose.
	 Then I cut the exhaust in half, I chose a spot 6" in front of
the cat. I tried a pneumatic cut-off tool with an abrasive disc, a
hacksaw, and finally an air chisel; the latter worked pretty well.
Afterwards it occurred to be that there was plenty of room to get under
there with an electric jigsaw, to make a 5-minute job out of what took
about 45 minutes. Ugh! Now the old exhaust came out. The front half,
once wiggled free of the manifold studs, came out through the engine
compartment, and the back half, once I popped off the rubber hangers and
jacked up the back of the truck 6-8", dropped out under the car. Just
before that, though, I remembered to disconnect the O2 sensor, it has a
plug attachment about 10" down the cable.
	 Now the bracket for the exhaust/tranny connection came off
easily, and I could remove the O2 sensor from the old system (that
entailed chiseling the rusted old bolts off, too far gone for the WD40
to help). The truck was now ready for the new parts.
	 The header went right in, plenty of room. I had just walked up
to Auto Zone for a fresh tube of Permatex Copper, but then I read the
instructions, which said that no silicone sealant must be used as they
can damage the O2 sensor. Oh, well, I needed the exercise. The flange on
the header is thinner than on the cast manifold so LC Engineering sold
me a set of different studs along with the rest of the parts. I was
super-careful here soaking the heck out to the studs before using the
double-nut method (no, not chewing gum!) to back the studs out. Again,
super-easy, not tight at all. Then, in with the new studs, and not
overtightening, either. I didn't have a factory manual (oh!) and didn't
know the torque settings, and surely did not want to strip any threads
in the head. Then on went the gasket, header, more gaskets, and the smog
tube. and snugged up the bolts very slowly; I probably went around the
pattern of bolts 20 times.
	 Then, underneath, The "down tube" attached to the header; I left
it loose for wiggling/aligning purposes as I went along. Then, the cat
bolted up. I couldn't tell, which end went up, so I assumed the stamped
part # and the arrow showing flow direction should go down where it
could be read.
	 Then, I popped it the exhaust starting at the other end. The
tailpipe hooked in to its hanger first, then I slid the muffler into
_its_ hangers and loosely bolted the two together. In between, there's a
pipe that bolted on the back of the cat (which another flange off the
side like the one for the O2 sensor, but a block-off plate was included
to seal it off), and the final piece is an S-shaped one that connects
the two. The two ends of the S are the only slip-fit connections, the
rest have flanges. At this time it was necessary to measure the straight
pipe that bolted to the cat, to see where it fit the S-shaped pipe, and
cut it (the system fits Toyotas for varying bed/cab lengths, I guess). I
measured 4 times, and I was _still_ nervous about it. No big deal, I
went right in. Then I was time to wiggle everything around for the best
fit and tighten the bolts.
	 A couple of clearance problems that the wiggling would _not_
fix. The 3" chrome tip (a bit much, IMHO) was touching the lip of the
bed. It exits right in the stock location and sticks out only about in
inch. There's no adjustment back there, so I thought about it a while.
There's a few holes in it for the "hanger rods" on the exhaust and
frame, plus one in the middle. So I pulled downward, hard, and shoved in
a couple of large bolts in the now-stretched holes. It's an inelegant
solution, and stiffens the rubber (meaning more transmitted sound), but
I now have 1/4" space.
	 The other clearance issue was further forward. On the stock
set-up, the O2 sensor was on a flange sticking straight up; the new one
was 45 degrees over and further forward (disconnecting one fastener at
the truck's frame allowed stretching the cable far enough); it was
touching the torsion bar. Eek! And there really any wiggle-opportunity
there, either. So, I removed the sensor, and slowly ground off part of
the flange _outboard_ of the retaining bolt (one of two on the flange).
I then did the same on the sensor, and trimmed the gasket. Back
together, I have 1/4" clearance or less, but the exhaust doesn't move
much (any?) that close to the header. The flange where the header bolts
to the down tube doesn't clear the torsion bar by much, either. These
clearance problems are really the only design complaints I have with the
LC Engineering system.
	  I figured I was done. My wife asked about the puddle under the
car; I told her it was just excess WD40 form all of the spraying I had
been doing. Then I saw the dripping down off the underside. What the
heck? (actually, I said something else, but I'm cleaning up the story
for the List) So, I'm under there, my head/hair right in the puddle,
wiping off the underside of the tranny, trying to figure out why this
fluid is dripping out. After a few tense minutes, I can see it's coming
from much further up.
	 Remember that bolt behind the cylinder hear I took out? Well, I
had put it back in, but must've forgotten to tighten it. Less beer next
time, Larry! :^) So, I got my fingers in there, tighten up the bolt. The
leak stopped.
	 Finally done. I fired up the truck, got an interesting 'bark' to
the exhaust. I like it, my wife does not. As it sits in the driveway,
the tailpipe aims right at my neighbor's bedroom window. As he was just
coming home right then, I told him about it. Not only no complaints, but
he brought over a couple of blueberry-wheat homebrews to celebrate.
Great neighbor, it'll be a shame to lose him when he moves out next
month.
	 In the end, I like how it turned out: I just hope the system
doesn't 'settle' onto the torsion bar, as there's no more room to grind.
There's still too long an unsupported span in the middle with no hanger,
I might take it to a professional shop to have one welded in. Yeah, I'd
do it again, even knowing what I know now. I think I'll need some more
sound insulation inside the truck cab, though. I have some spare Dynamat
left over from my sports car.

Larry

Finally! I'm going to lower the truck!

	 Over the weekend, I was high bidder (only bidder) on eBay on a
slightly (3 mo) used set of Bell Tech 2" drop front spindles and a
matching pair of lowering blocks for the rear. Summit Racing, whom I buy
from frequently, quoted $282 for these parts new. My eBay purchase is
$50 (fifty bucks) plus shipping. I wonder if, at 47K miles, I should pop
in new balljoints at the same time I install this.

	 Also, Friday a friend sold me a set of Hella H4 conversion
headlights he used to have in his Corvette before he traded it in on a
MB 560SL (ya gotta weep for this guy, eh?). I'd looked around, and seen
prices at $80/pair; I snagged 'em at half that. The stock headlights are
truly weak, plus the factory aims them too low, thinking owners will be
carrying loads in the bed that change the ride angle of the truck; so
I'm constantly over-driving my lights. This will be a big improvement. I
had been daydreaming about installing quad 7" round headlights, sort of
The Bentley Look, in junkyard buckets and making up a custom grille; but
who knows when I would have gotten around to doing it? Installing the
Hellas will be a 5-minute job.

	 8 years ago, I got an antique sports car; more money than we
really had to blow on such a toy. I told my wife that, in compensation,
I no longer needed anything but the most basic day-to-day
transportation. So, 7 years ago, I got the Toyota shortbed. Really
basic. Well, OK, there's no handcrank sticking out the front, it starts
with a key. But for 7 years I've driven this thing way too close to
stock; but I'm changing it now!

	 Can you tell I'm in a good mood this morning?

Larry

Well, over the weekend we "surged" to 7 members. Sorry I wasn't
monitoring the list, spend the weekend working on the truck, details
later.
	 Apparently my post to the S-10 owner's list on OneList paid off
with a few new susbcribers; better still, I didn't get flamed or a
complaint lodged with OneList Administration for doing so. Now, I'll try
it with a few other lists to keep membership rounded out.

I am looking for some weather-striping      doors,windows, etc. for a 1994 and
up Chevy S-10 King Cabs. Any body help a fellow in need for parts?      THANKS
Lownloud 94

Hello everybody, my name is Russ (Lownloud 94) 32 year old male. I have been a
mechanic for 15 years but I hurt my back and neck at work so I had to take some
time off from wrenching. I went back to work a year latter but was not able to
do the lifting, bending, and stretching any more and I had to find another line
of work to do. So I gathered up some funds and went back to school to learn how
to do PDR. Paintless Dent Removal (removing door dings, minor dents, hail damage
and of course shopping cart dings that we all hate). Right now I currently own
and operate my own Paintless Dent Removal Business and everything is going
great. Well enough about me and on to my ride.

1994 Chevy S-10 king cab 4.3L TBI. 5 spd. I went to the Chevy dealer and picked
out the truck, took it home and drove it for less than 2 week's and then went a
little crazy with it. First off went to the tint shop and had windows tinted 10%
dr./pas.door and 5% on rear and cab windows  Put a Bell Tech lowering kit on it
springs, spindals, leafsprings and shocks (4/6), wheels, tires, Jet Power
Module, TBI Spacer, K N Filter, Flowmaster Cat Back System and Underdrive
Pulleys needless to say that was still not enough so then I introduced the S-10
to the bottle (NOS) now it is more to my liking. Ok now that was all done I
started on the body, first I shaved the door handles, antenna, and then the
tailgate then painted the truck(Black) with PPG. paint, primer, sealer and
clearcoat then added just a touch of purple pearl in the clearcoat. Just
recently added factory electric mirrors and power windows bought all OEM
switches, panels, and wiring harnesses from the dealer really turned out nice.
Also added a Leer topper so my dogs can cruise in style also.

Now let's talk about the stereo, Eclipse cd head unit with changer and cordless
remote control, MB Quart components in dash and doors, Q Form kick panels with
MB Quart components, total of 6 mids and 4 tweeters. Precision Power amps 4 of
them, 2 Pro Mos 25 amps running mids and highs then 2 Pro Mos 50 amps powering 6
JL Audio subs 12W6's, MB Quarts & Precision Power crossovers,(2) Street Wires  1
Farad Capacitors, 2 Optima Batteries and duel alternator's  my own set up
naturally.  1 AWG. power and ground cable, 12 gauge speaker wire, and patch
cables, blocks>>>etc. all of which are Street Wires. The alarm system is a Viper
800HF with battery back up, alarm operates the power windows, tailgate lock,
Purple Neon (32 feet of it) Street Glow, and opens drivers/ passenger doors and
the remote starter.This is helpfull for those hot or cold days when you want
heat or A/C on when you get back to your ride.

What kind of rides do you all have?????      Let me know.


Future Planes

Pro Street


   Thanks for your time talk to everybody latter .                      
Lownloud94


   minitrucks@onelist.com

Hay Maria     The purple pearl showes up really nice under street lights at
night or even better with the purple neon on.
----- Original Message -----
From: Maria Genser <hers10@...>
To: <all-minitrucks@onelist.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [all-minitrucks] New member


> From: Maria Genser <hers10@...>
>
> Hi Russ,
> This is Maria, I drive a 95 S-10 and am also new to
> the list as of today. My question for you is:
> How does that purple pearl come out on a black truck?
> just wondering because I was thinking about doing the
> same thing to mine.  Repaint it black(factory black
> paintjust won't do) and then add the blue or purple
> pearl to the clear coat.  Does it show up pretty good?
>
> Thanks,
> Maria
>
> --- Lownloud 94 <lownloud@...> wrote:
> > From: "Lownloud 94" <lownloud@...>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello everybody, my name is Russ (Lownloud 94) 32
> > year old male. I have been a mechanic for 15 years
> > but I hurt my back and neck at work so I had to take
> > some time off from wrenching. I went back to work a
> > year latter but was not able to do the lifting,
> > bending, and stretching any more and I had to find
> > another line of work to do. So I gathered up some
> > funds and went back to school to learn how to do
> > PDR. Paintless Dent Removal (removing door dings,
> > minor dents, hail damage and of course shopping cart
> > dings that we all hate). Right now I currently own
> > and operate my own Paintless Dent Removal Business
> > and everything is going great. Well enough about me
> > and on to my ride.
> >
> > 1994 Chevy S-10 king cab 4.3L TBI. 5 spd. I went to
> > the Chevy dealer and picked out the truck, took it
> > home and drove it for less than 2 week's and then
> > went a little crazy with it. First off went to the
> > tint shop and had windows tinted 10% dr./pas.door
> > and 5% on rear and cab windows  Put a Bell Tech
> > lowering kit on it springs, spindals, leafsprings
> > and shocks (4/6), wheels, tires, Jet Power Module,
> > TBI Spacer, K N Filter, Flowmaster Cat Back System
> > and Underdrive Pulleys needless to say that was
> > still not enough so then I introduced the S-10 to
> > the bottle (NOS) now it is more to my liking. Ok now
> > that was all done I started on the body, first I
> > shaved the door handles, antenna, and then the
> > tailgate then painted the truck(Black) with PPG.
> > paint, primer, sealer and clearcoat then added just
> > a touch of purple pearl in the clearcoat. Just
> > recently added factory electric mirrors and power
> > windows bought all OEM
> > switches, panels, and wiring harnesses from the
> > dealer really turned out nice. Also added a Leer
> > topper so my dogs can cruise in style also.
> >
> > Now let's talk about the stereo, Eclipse cd head
> > unit with changer and cordless remote control, MB
> > Quart components in dash and doors, Q Form kick
> > panels with MB Quart components, total of 6 mids and
> > 4 tweeters. Precision Power amps 4 of them, 2 Pro
> > Mos 25 amps running mids and highs then 2 Pro Mos 50
> > amps powering 6 JL Audio subs 12W6's, MB Quarts &
> > Precision Power crossovers,(2) Street Wires  1 Farad
> > Capacitors, 2 Optima Batteries and duel alternator's
> >  my own set up naturally.  1 AWG. power and ground
> > cable, 12 gauge speaker wire, and patch cables,
> > blocks>>>etc. all of which are Street Wires. The
> > alarm system is a Viper 800HF with battery back up,
> > alarm operates the power windows, tailgate lock,
> > Purple Neon (32 feet of it) Street Glow, and opens
> > drivers/ passenger doors and the remote starter.This
> > is helpfull for those hot or cold days when you want
> > heat or A/C on when you get back to your ride.
> >
> > What kind of rides do you all have?????      Let me
> > know.
> >
> >
> > Future Planes
> >
> > Pro Street
> >
> >
> >   Thanks for your time talk to everybody latter .
> >                    Lownloud94
> >
> >
> >   all-minitrucks@onelist.com
> >
> >
> >
> > [Attachments have been removed from this message]
> >
> > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor
> > ----------------------------
> >
> > Choose from a wide selection of high-quality
> > newsletters at ONElist.
> > For details on ONElist's PROS&PUNDITS newsletters,
> > click below.
> > <a href=" http://clickme.onelist.com/ad/prospun2
> > ">Click Here</a>
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Community email addresses:
> >   Post message: all-minitrucks@onelist.com
> >   Subscribe:    all-minitrucks-subscribe@onelist.com
> >   Unsubscribe:
> > all-minitrucks-unsubscribe@onelist.com
> >   List owner:   all-minitrucks-owner@onelist.com
> >
> > Shortcut URL to this page:
> >   http://www.onelist.com/community/all-minitrucks
> >
>
>
> =====
>
> > Community email addresses:
>   Post message: all-minitrucks@onelist.com
>   Subscribe:    all-minitrucks-subscribe@onelist.com
>   Unsubscribe:  all-minitrucks-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>   List owner:   all-minitrucks-owner@onelist.com
>
> Shortcut URL to this page:
>   http://www.onelist.com/community/all-minitrucks

Hi Russ,
This is Maria, I drive a 95 S-10 and am also new to
the list as of today. My question for you is:
How does that purple pearl come out on a black truck?
just wondering because I was thinking about doing the
same thing to mine.  Repaint it black(factory black
paintjust won't do) and then add the blue or purple
pearl to the clear coat.  Does it show up pretty good?

Thanks,
Maria

--- Lownloud 94 <lownloud@...> wrote:
> From: "Lownloud 94" <lownloud@...>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello everybody, my name is Russ (Lownloud 94) 32
> year old male. I have been a mechanic for 15 years
> but I hurt my back and neck at work so I had to take
> some time off from wrenching. I went back to work a
> year latter but was not able to do the lifting,
> bending, and stretching any more and I had to find
> another line of work to do. So I gathered up some
> funds and went back to school to learn how to do
> PDR. Paintless Dent Removal (removing door dings,
> minor dents, hail damage and of course shopping cart
> dings that we all hate). Right now I currently own
> and operate my own Paintless Dent Removal Business
> and everything is going great. Well enough about me
> and on to my ride.
>
> 1994 Chevy S-10 king cab 4.3L TBI. 5 spd. I went to
> the Chevy dealer and picked out the truck, took it
> home and drove it for less than 2 week's and then
> went a little crazy with it. First off went to the
> tint shop and had windows tinted 10% dr./pas.door
> and 5% on rear and cab windows  Put a Bell Tech
> lowering kit on it springs, spindals, leafsprings
> and shocks (4/6), wheels, tires, Jet Power Module,
> TBI Spacer, K N Filter, Flowmaster Cat Back System
> and Underdrive Pulleys needless to say that was
> still not enough so then I introduced the S-10 to
> the bottle (NOS) now it is more to my liking. Ok now
> that was all done I started on the body, first I
> shaved the door handles, antenna, and then the
> tailgate then painted the truck(Black) with PPG.
> paint, primer, sealer and clearcoat then added just
> a touch of purple pearl in the clearcoat. Just
> recently added factory electric mirrors and power
> windows bought all OEM
> switches, panels, and wiring harnesses from the
> dealer really turned out nice. Also added a Leer
> topper so my dogs can cruise in style also.
>
> Now let's talk about the stereo, Eclipse cd head
> unit with changer and cordless remote control, MB
> Quart components in dash and doors, Q Form kick
> panels with MB Quart components, total of 6 mids and
> 4 tweeters. Precision Power amps 4 of them, 2 Pro
> Mos 25 amps running mids and highs then 2 Pro Mos 50
> amps powering 6 JL Audio subs 12W6's, MB Quarts &
> Precision Power crossovers,(2) Street Wires  1 Farad
> Capacitors, 2 Optima Batteries and duel alternator's
>  my own set up naturally.  1 AWG. power and ground
> cable, 12 gauge speaker wire, and patch cables,
> blocks>>>etc. all of which are Street Wires. The
> alarm system is a Viper 800HF with battery back up,
> alarm operates the power windows, tailgate lock,
> Purple Neon (32 feet of it) Street Glow, and opens
> drivers/ passenger doors and the remote starter.This
> is helpfull for those hot or cold days when you want
> heat or A/C on when you get back to your ride.
>
> What kind of rides do you all have?????      Let me
> know.
>
>
> Future Planes
>
> Pro Street
>
>
>   Thanks for your time talk to everybody latter .
>                    Lownloud94
>
>
>   all-minitrucks@onelist.com
>
>
>
> [Attachments have been removed from this message]
>
> --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor
> ----------------------------
>
> Choose from a wide selection of high-quality
> newsletters at ONElist.
> For details on ONElist's PROS&PUNDITS newsletters,
> click below.
> <a href=" http://clickme.onelist.com/ad/prospun2
> ">Click Here</a>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Community email addresses:
>   Post message: all-minitrucks@onelist.com
>   Subscribe:    all-minitrucks-subscribe@onelist.com
>   Unsubscribe:
> all-minitrucks-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>   List owner:   all-minitrucks-owner@onelist.com
>
> Shortcut URL to this page:
>   http://www.onelist.com/community/all-minitrucks
>


=====

Hello everybody, my name is Russ (Lownloud 94) 32 year old male. I have been a
mechanic for 15 years but I hurt my back and neck at work so I had to take some
time off from wrenching. I went back to work a year latter but was not able to
do the lifting, bending, and stretching any more and I had to find another line
of work to do. So I gathered up some funds and went back to school to learn how
to do PDR. Paintless Dent Removal (removing door dings, minor dents, hail damage
and of course shopping cart dings that we all hate). Right now I currently own
and operate my own Paintless Dent Removal Business and everything is going
great. Well enough about me and on to my ride.

1994 Chevy S-10 king cab 4.3L TBI. 5 spd. I went to the Chevy dealer and picked
out the truck, took it home and drove it for less than 2 week's and then went a
little crazy with it. First off went to the tint shop and had windows tinted 10%
dr./pas.door and 5% on rear and cab windows  Put a Bell Tech lowering kit on it
springs, spindals, leafsprings and shocks (4/6), wheels, tires, Jet Power
Module, TBI Spacer, K N Filter, Flowmaster Cat Back System and Underdrive
Pulleys needless to say that was still not enough so then I introduced the S-10
to the bottle (NOS) now it is more to my liking. Ok now that was all done I
started on the body, first I shaved the door handles, antenna, and then the
tailgate then painted the truck(Black) with PPG. paint, primer, sealer and
clearcoat then added just a touch of purple pearl in the clearcoat. Just
recently added factory electric mirrors and power windows bought all OEM
switches, panels, and wiring harnesses from the dealer really turned out nice.
Also added a Leer topper so my dogs can cruise in style also.

Now let's talk about the stereo, Eclipse cd head unit with changer and cordless
remote control, MB Quart components in dash and doors, Q Form kick panels with
MB Quart components, total of 6 mids and 4 tweeters. Precision Power amps 4 of
them, 2 Pro Mos 25 amps running mids and highs then 2 Pro Mos 50 amps powering 6
JL Audio subs 12W6's, MB Quarts & Precision Power crossovers,(2) Street Wires  1
Farad Capacitors, 2 Optima Batteries and duel alternator's  my own set up
naturally.  1 AWG. power and ground cable, 12 gauge speaker wire, and patch
cables, blocks>>>etc. all of which are Street Wires. The alarm system is a Viper
800HF with battery back up, alarm operates the power windows, tailgate lock,
Purple Neon (32 feet of it) Street Glow, and opens drivers/ passenger doors and
the remote starter.This is helpfull for those hot or cold days when you want
heat or A/C on when you get back to your ride.

What kind of rides do you all have?????      Let me know.


Future Planes

Pro Street


   Thanks for your time talk to everybody latter .                      
Lownloud94


   all-minitrucks@onelist.com

Hello All

Hi all!

I'm new to this list and just wanted to introduce
myself-you may have seen me on other lists.
I drive a 95 s-10 and it's lookin pretty rough right
now. I bought it from Arkansas semi done up, and jsut
recently took the racerback cab spoiler off of it.
It's is the shop right now and is waiting on a tranny,
but unfortunately the idiot tow truck driver ruined
the front of my truck last monday.  He didn't chain
down the back to the flatbed and when he stopped, my
truck rolled forward and back and my grille, billet
inserts and bumper cover broke.

I do need help finding a replacement bumper cover
exactly  like the one I have now.

Anyway, it's lowered a little, but not enough, has
ultra tristars, but when my fiance gets me some new
billet wheels for Christmas, I'm gonna go for the full
5-6 drop(for now) and maybe bag it next spring.

I do most of the work that I can myself!
I'm a proud member of the Kansas City Chapter of the
Screet Ho's and hope to be an officer soon.

Sorry for the book!
Later all!

Maria
Screet Ho's KC Metro Chapter


=====

Sup,
	  I joined this list last night. I have 2 minis one is a '88 s10 blazer
that lays frame, the other is my daily driver a '91 GMC Sonoma that is
basically stock except a few motor mods.

Matt ~ Ft. Worth, TX ~ IH8bumps@...

Well, it looks like a couple of new subscribers on Day Two of
this new list, "all-minitrucks". Welcome aboard! I see that one of you
is also subscribed to Mike White's minitruck list; so am I, for now. You
can tell, by the welcome message sent out upon subscription, that we're
looking for a different "flavor" here.
	 The downside? With so few subscribers so far, there won't be
anything to read unless _we_ submit it. Feel free to post, tell us all
about your truck(s), whatever. I'll do the same, I might ever repeat
myself later for the benefit of those that join later. Hopefully, we'll
soon have "critical mass", enough folks posting that the list will be
self-sustaining. I'll do my part; I'm looking for other e-mail lists
where I might pop in and post an invitation to join us (I'll leave Mike
White's list alone). If you have any ideas, don't hesitate to speak up.
BTW, I'm curious; how did you guys find this list?
	 Oh, yeah: I decided to use OneList's "no attachments" option. I
know some folks are wary of transmitted viruses and such, so it seemed
safer. So, if you have an appropriate attachment, like a picture of your
truck or something, send it to me; I'll try to figure out how to put
them in the OneList "files" area for everybody to see.
	 Yeah, I'm neglecting my truck, it looks pretty gross this AM. It
could use paint, but the body is in good shape. So, last night some guy
shows up and offers to grind up a treestump in the front yard cheap, so
I say, sure, go ahead. I go outside a few minutes later, the grinding
machine has thrown sawdust all over my truck, I should have moved it. No
harm done, but it looks like it's made out of particle board. Oh, well,
live and learn.

Basically a follow-up test message on the list's first day.

I'm Larry, List Moderator, at least for now; owner of a 1992 Toyota 2WD pickup
with a few "enhancements" (I'll tell all later).

This list is in the, ahem, "foramtive" stage, we'll make changes as we go along.