Hi,
   Most that I've done have been in wool, but a few have been in damasks.
   I'll try to explain this... using your interlining and good fabric as one,
seam them to the lining.  Then trim and grade your seam allowances and stitch
them to the lining fabric.  You'll have a row of stitching showing on the inside
edge of your lining fabric.  I usually do it about 1/8" from the seam, maybe
about 2mm.
   Good luck!
Brad

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@...> wrote:
Hi,
My material for the whole outfit, jacket, waistcoat and breeches are made in
pale blue silk duchesse satin. I interline the whole jacket ekcept the sleaves
with linnen and i have a nice silk for the linning.
What is understitched, could you please explain this, my native language is not
english?
Bjarne
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Brad Gould
   To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 11:18 PM
   Subject: Re: [TheCostumersManifesto] justeaucorps


   Hi,

   When I've done a coat like that I've used about a 1/4" seam allowance, about
0.5cm.  And I've understitched the edge.  What fabric are you doing them in?
   Brad

   Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@...> wrote:

   Hi,
   I just wanted to ask if any here could help me.
   I am sewing a mans justeaucorps 1766. The jacket has full skirts.
   How much seam allowanse would you have in the hem in the bottom?
   When the skirts are full and cut like a sun, it is difficult to have a seam
   allowanse of 5 cm. wich i have. Is it two much?
   Any tricks how i get the hem of the skirts nice?

   Bjarne





   Leif og Bjarne Drews
   www.my-drewscostumes.dk

   http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/







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Hi all

I just took over as the Costume Manager at the Pioneer
Village in my area and aside form being aghast at the
quality of the collection, I was mortified to discover
the very limited research done on the subject.

I figured I would ask you, fellow listites, for ideas
on research materials.  I guess I should tell you a
bit about the village, it is covering a period of
settlement in the area from 1800-1920 ( I
know...immmense "Pioneer" period).  The area is Upper
Canada (Ontario to non Canadians).  The Primary period
we are dressing for is mostly 1850's, what we need is
materials and ideas for both farm and more
professional attire.  I have combed through my
personal and our local library for necessary materials
and have come up a little short in both areas (my main
speciality is 18th and early 19th C), I have some but
would like more, as a hypothesis is only as good as
the research that goes into it.

Any suggestions for either books OR Clothing would be
greatly appreciated, you can either contact me off or
onlist.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Paul

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Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca

We are doing Sheridan's "The Rivals" ...it is set in 1775 in Bath, England...I
am not very familiar with this period...I can find good pictures of fashionable
clothing of the period, does anyone know good places for me to look for pictures
of the servants, both male and female? Nicely clothed ones, livery, ladies
maids, etc not shabby ones...

Thanks,

Contessa



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Somebody asked me this today and I thought I knew the answer, but it escaped
me:...tell me again why men's shirts button one way and women's the other?

I'm not sure - in fact I think that I might have dreamed this - but
because most people were right handed, the buttons were placed on the
right side for easier manipulation through the loop/hole etc. For
women, their garments were usually closed down the back and the
buttons were therefore reversed to accommodate the right handed
"buttoner". When the closures moved from back to front the reversed
buttoning continued. Yeah, it might have been a dream - a good one -
but nonetheless a dream.

David

If I recall correctly, I was told it is because men buttoned their own
shirts, whereas women had a girl who dressed them, so the buttons were
opposite. I could be completely wrong, though. =)

Rebecca

On 4/21/05, wdjennings2000 <wdjennings@...> wrote:
>
>
> Somebody asked me this today and I thought I knew the answer, but it
> escaped me:...tell me again why men's shirts button one way and women's the
> other?
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've just found out I'll be teaching a course on stage make-up in the
Fall, I figured on using Corsin's "Stage Make-up" book. That is until I
saw the price. Can anyone recommend another text?

Thanks in advance.

~lisa.s

--- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "Loretta Armstrong"
<laminathegreat@y...> wrote:
>
> This question actualy comes from aone of my husbands co-workers..
> What is the name of the tool used to make slashings in Elizabethan
> costumes? My first thought was a seam ripper 8-P but he said it was
> something that looked like a chisel. He's been trying to find
> something with no avail. Any help?
> Loretta

Loretta,
Could he be referring to a buttonhole cutter? It looks like a chisel
and is used to "cut" rather than "tear" a buttonhole. It makes a
sharper opening and doesn't stretch the buttonhole like using a seam
ripper sometimes can. A good picture of one can be had by going to
www.nancysnotions.com and searching for "buttonhole cutter" in the
search bar. They have two sets... a plastic handled one by Clover and
a wooden handled one.
Buttonhole cutters are usually sold in sets... a "chisel" cutter and
a "round" cutter to do the "hole" part of a keyhole buttonhole. They
are also used to cut holes in leather for making belts, etc. You need
a cutting board beneath and a rubber mallot to complete the tool set.
Tess

Interesting dream, David.  You just brought back a thousand memories for me.  I
am so glad that type of top is no longer our mainstay.  LOL
I think the reason men and womens shirts button differently is because of the
right brain/left brain thing.  I comes very natural for me to have the hole in
the right hand, and the button in the left.  That could just be habit, of
course.  I do have a couple of men's shirts that I like to wear and buttoning
them feels a bit clumsy.  But of course, that could just be my very right brain
at work.

sheila

David <djuby@...> wrote:

I'm not sure - in fact I think that I might have dreamed this - but
because most people were right handed, the buttons were placed on the
right side for easier manipulation through the loop/hole etc. For
women, their garments were usually closed down the back and the
buttons were therefore reversed to accommodate the right handed
"buttoner". When the closures moved from back to front the reversed
buttoning continued. Yeah, it might have been a dream - a good one -
but nonetheless a dream.

David





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I use "Stage Makeup" by Laura Thudium, with a
recommendation to buy the Corson if they are
interested in makeup--and can afford it!  Thudium's
book is a basic intro to stage amkeup.
--Michelle

--- llsturts@... wrote:
>
> I've just found out I'll be teaching a course on
> stage make-up in the
> Fall, I figured on using Corsin's "Stage Make-up"
> book. That is until I
> saw the price. Can anyone recommend another text?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> ~lisa.s
>
>
>
>
>

For everything there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven.
--Eccl. 3:1

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"Costume of Household Servants"(from the middle ages to 1900) by
Phillis Cunnington is excellent! It MAY be out of print,though. It
uses engravings and paintings throughout, along with excerpts from
diaries, personal accounts and newspapers.

Men and women are predominately right-handed. Therefore, mens'
clothing buttons with the button on the right side of the garment.
They usually dressed themselves,and button looking DOWN at a
garment.And it was easier to get your weapon out through an opening
in your coat when it opened that way. Women were dressed by servants
(think tightening a corset's strings),and buttoned looking AT a
garment, and therefore the buttons are on the right on womens'
clothing.

>We did The Rivals in the Fall of 2003. Our Director and Costume Designer
>for that show is a specialist on this period, and her designs were part of
>her sabbatical research project, most of which she did while in England,
>specifically for the production. Photoshots of the show can be seen on our
>website at

http://www.queensu.ca/drama/library/Rivals/index.htm

Unfortunately they are tech rehearsal shots, and some garments are not
quite finished (trims etc). I may be able to get/scan her designs etc if
you like. As I recall, she set it in about 1785, which is different that
the decade just before and the decade just after.  FYI - she used "extras"
as "furniture", hence the oddly dressed folks in the background holding
mirrors, tables etc.

Feel free to contact me off list if you want more info. Or contact Judy!

>    From: Contessa <costumegoddess777@...>
>Subject: Sheridan's "The Rivals"
>
>We are doing Sheridan's "The Rivals" ...it is set in 1775 in Bath,
>England...I am not very familiar with this period...I can find good
>pictures of fashionable clothing of the period, does anyone know good
>places for me to look for pictures of the servants, both male and female?
>Nicely clothed ones, livery, ladies maids, etc not shabby ones...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Contessa
>



Anne Redish
Theatre Wardrobe Coordinator
Department of Drama, Rm 020
Queen's University,
Kingston, Ontario
613-533-6000 x75359
483-3245 cell
ar11@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>    From: "wdjennings2000" <wdjennings@...>
> Subject: Buttoning history, please...
>
>
> Somebody asked me this today and I thought I knew the
> answer, but it escaped me:...tell me again why men's
> shirts button one way and women's the other?

As I remember it, the earliest button garments all buttoned
the same way.  However, as history passed, it became
fashionable for the well-to-do woman to be dressed by her
servants...so the buttons switched sides, to make it easier
to do them up (so they buttoned up, for the person facing
her, the same way a man's shirt would...to understand the
difficulty, try doing the buttons with your off-hand).
Since all the 'fashionable' garments were done that way, it
became more and more common in all womens' garments, and
has survived on to this day.  Now women are accustomed to
the buttons being on that side, so it's no longer an issue
that it might favor their off-hand, they learned to work
with them that way.


Curtis Kidd
"Remember, the light at the end of the tunnel could be you!"

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Thanks for the recommendation Michelle, but it appears "Stage Makeup" by
Laura Thudium has gone out-of-print, or at least Watson-Guptill no longer
publishes it. Any other suggestions?

~lisa.s

---
> I use "Stage Makeup" by Laura Thudium, with a
> recommendation to buy the Corson if they are
> interested in makeup--and can afford it!  Thudium's
> book is a basic intro to stage amkeup.

Amazon has the paperback edition of the Laura Thudium for a little over $22.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yes, I saw that, and have ordered a copy for my own library. But any
required textbook must be available through the College bookstore--even
if students purchase it elsewhere--as I often suggest. Can't beat
half.com's prices. I've found a surprising number of students, for what
ever reason, can't or won't buy things online.

~lisa.s

--- Susan Cassidy wrote:
> Amazon has the paperback edition of the Laura Thudium for a little
> over $22.

>  I'm asking because I'm
> wondering about the
> costumes for the backstage crew in this show.  Do
> they traditionally
> wear black during the run of the show like they do
> here?

Yes, if you have a possibility of being onsatge at all
(so if you're SM, Director, Asst. SM (Like I was this
weekend) then you shoud wear black) but if you're in
the booth or a house manager you need to wear nice
clothes.
I think the asst. SM usually dresses up nice too.
Nicole
>
>

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In a message dated 4/22/2005 7:42:34 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com writes:


Message: 9
Date:  Thu, 21 Apr 2005 23:28:03 -0000
From: "wdjennings2000"  <wdjennings@...>
Subject: Buttoning history,  please...


Somebody asked me this today and I thought I knew the  answer, but it escaped
me:...tell me again why men's shirts button one way and  women's the other?





Ok, I've got one for you......."Women are right, and men are left  over."
  I use this little ditty to teach my students which shirt  belongs in which
storage box.

Patty in Illinois


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,
Someone from another list I'm on asked a question that I bet one of you
talented and experienced folks might know the answer to. She washed
some white linen in Ivory Snow and the whole mess turned "green"! She
thinks it might be a problem with the copper piping in her circa '70s
home. How does she get the "green" out?
Tess

--- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, ecomaas@a... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/22/2005 7:42:34 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com writes:
>
>
> Message: 9
> Date:  Thu, 21 Apr 2005 23:28:03 -0000
> From: "wdjennings2000"  <wdjennings@w...>
> Subject: Buttoning history,  please...
>
>
> Somebody asked me this today and I thought I knew the  answer, but it escaped
> me:...tell me again why men's shirts button one way and  women's the other?
>
>
>
>
>
> Ok, I've got one for you......."Women are right, and men are left  over."
>  I use this little ditty to teach my students which shirt  belongs in which
> storage box.
>
> Patty in Illinois

Very good, Patty! Thank you---and thanks to all who answered my question.

wdj

Hey everyone,

I need help with a little research I'm actually helping someone else
with.

A friend wanted to know if Stage Blood (as in the 'fake stuff') was
being used in the Victorian Era? She's pinpointing the time period
around the mid 1870's.

All I could tell her was I knew at one time they used animal blood,
then started making fake stuff later on. As to when???? Props wasn't
my forte in college.

I've tried Google, Yahoo, Lycos, Jeeves, my books have nothing
either. UGH!!!

Can anyone enter some insight? PLEASE!!!!

Thanks for your time,
Anna

Hi, Anna,

According to the book "Women who Charmed the West," by Anne Seagraves,
they were still using pig's blood for stage blood during this period.

--- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "Anna"
<theatrerulz@y...> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I need help with a little research I'm actually helping someone else
> with.
>
> A friend wanted to know if Stage Blood (as in the 'fake stuff') was
> being used in the Victorian Era? She's pinpointing the time period
> around the mid 1870's.
>
> All I could tell her was I knew at one time they used animal blood,
> then started making fake stuff later on. As to when???? Props wasn't
> my forte in college.
>
> I've tried Google, Yahoo, Lycos, Jeeves, my books have nothing
> either. UGH!!!
>
> Can anyone enter some insight? PLEASE!!!!
>
> Thanks for your time,
> Anna

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6958165332

>    From: "Kathy" <kwilliams@...>
> Subject: Re: Stage Blood question
>
> Hi, Anna,
>
> According to the book "Women who Charmed the West," by
> Anne Seagraves,
> they were still using pig's blood for stage blood during
> this period.

I would guess that the use of fake blood was a slowly
spreading process, from wherever it started.  Out in the
West, it would make sense to use animal blood, because it
was readily available, no matter where you went.  I would
also guess (and mind you, this is ONLY a guess) that fake
blood probably wasn't developed until after refrigeration
became fairly common in the more industrialized areas--my
logic being that, with the ability to refrigerate animals,
the supply of real blood would become less predicatable.
If you could no longer just run down to the corner butcher
shop and get some fresh for the night's show, you'd want to
come up with something you could rely on.

Doesn't really help, because there's no basis in research,
I know.  But it might suggest some potential alternatives
of research.  I hope you find the answer, you've got me
curious now...;)



Curtis Kidd
"Remember, the light at the end of the tunnel could be you!"

*********************************************************
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"Ein Volk, Ein Reich, Ein Fuhrer" - Adolf Hitler
*********************************************************

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Hello.
I have to dress people in eskimo outfits.
They will be doing a little dancing on the stage.
The real wooden snowshoes are very expensive to buy,
and I am worried to rent pairs because they are meant to be usen on snow
not a hard wood floor.
Has anyone used real snowshoes on stage?
Don't they get damaged?
Or, has anyone made snowshoes for a play?
If you have, I would love to know what kind of material you used.

You'll damage both the floor and the shoes unless one of them is padded if
the intent is to dance in them. I think about the only kind of dancing
they'll actually do will be a sort of shuffle as I race on shoes several
times throughout the winter and have yet to see anyone who can actually
"dance" on a set. Not saying it can't be done, only that in over 30 yrs I
haven't seen done yet. How many pairs are you going to need ?

They just move around in the big snow shoes, not real dancing.  It is done
before at Ballet
West.  They are corps for Pas de Deux.  I need 8 pairs. I'm thinking to make
them using
thick foam board and strings.  I found some site that explains how to put the
net on the
shoes.  The only thing is that it seems to me they could get damaged very easily
if I use
paper.  Especially, they are very big and hard to walk in.  I am not really a
crafter, I'm a
seamstress.....So this is difficult task fo me.


--- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "Randolph Keator" <rkeator@l...>
wrote:
> You'll damage both the floor and the shoes unless one of them is padded if
> the intent is to dance in them. I think about the only kind of dancing
> they'll actually do will be a sort of shuffle as I race on shoes several
> times throughout the winter and have yet to see anyone who can actually
> "dance" on a set. Not saying it can't be done, only that in over 30 yrs I
> haven't seen done yet. How many pairs are you going to need ?

Does anyone know the source of this description of the Dark Ages ? If
you possibly supply me with the name of the 'pithy scholar' mentioned
by Dr Maginnis I'd be very grateful!


*Contemporary with the first part of the Eastern Empire's rule in the
western Mediterranean, Western Europe was going through the period
known as the "Dark Ages". One rather pithy scholar pretty well summed
up the era (400-900ce) as "five hundred years of camping out".*


http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/byzantium.htm

Alas, I don't know myself, although I've tried to find out.  It was a
quote (by whom I've long since forgotten) that my college Late
Antique/ Early Medieval History teacher cited to sum up the society of
Western Europe from about 500 CE to 1000 CE when we began a class on
that era.

--- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "joetexx" <joetexx@y...>
wrote:
> Does anyone know the source of this description of the Dark Ages ? If
> you possibly supply me with the name of the 'pithy scholar' mentioned
> by Dr Maginnis I'd be very grateful!
>
>
> *Contemporary with the first part of the Eastern Empire's rule in the
> western Mediterranean, Western Europe was going through the period
> known as the "Dark Ages". One rather pithy scholar pretty well summed
> up the era (400-900ce) as "five hundred years of camping out".*
>
>
> http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/byzantium.htm