Good advice, thanks guys!

-kg


On May 29, 2009, at 11:04 AM, Rich Dean wrote:

>
>
> Kenny,
> an excellent tutorial book is Sherlines "Tabletop Machining".
> There are several Sherline tool discount resellers (google Sherline).
> Considering the relatively large parts you plan, you will find
> cranking
> the small handles will get tiresome quickly. CNC is your friend ;-)
> I do similar work and use 3/16 carbide endmills almost exclusively
> if possible. 5-8 IPM in 1/8 aluminum fully thru in one pass followed
> by
> a small finish pass. Cutting fluid application is very important as al
> tends to choke up the cutter flutes real quick.
> Angle brackets I make from extruded al stock or brake sheet to form.
> A "Screw machine" drill set (short shank) will save a lot of vertical
> head movement.
> Get on the ENCO and MSC Industrial email discount notifications.
> Harbor Freight has frequent email discounts and some useful tools.
> All have snailmail fliers/catalogs as well.
> Wholesale Tool Co. is another.
> There are many online Sherline biz and personal sites to look up.
> Be safe - have fun.
> -=RichD=-
>
> Kenny Gorman wrote:
> > I bought a used 5000 series mill on craigslist just the other day
> > because of the good price. I have a couple of newbie questions.
> >
> > I intend to mill T6061 into various small custom brackets, adapters,
> > and mounts for our motorsports business. Mainly to hold motorsports
> > sensors. Perhaps eventually going CAD/CAM CNC (I know CAD very well
> > already). Most parts will be flat or 'L' shaped brackets most less
> > than 6" square and likely 1/8" thick. I don't currently have any
> > experience with machining at all. Like zero. I believe the 5000 is
> > up for the task right?
> >
> > I believe I will need to end mill, drill, and possibly bore various
> > holes and shapes. I will likely use a bender on finished parts vs
> > trying to make 'L' brackets out of one billet piece (I think..). The
> > 5000 came with various collets and the milling vice.
> >
> > Anyone know what types of tools to get? I know I need an end-mill
> and
> > a drill setup at a minimum. I am thinking I might need a turn plate
> > to do larger holes? Where is the best place to get this stuff?
> > Sherline direct? I was hoping there would be a 'starter kit' of
> tools
> > for newb's like me.
> >
> > Anyone got a good reference for a newbie like me to help me get
> > started with the basics? Sorry if these questions are silly.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> > Kenny
> snippppppppppppp
>
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My distributor cover turned out pretty good. My settings for the finishing
passes were a little too slow, but I now know better..

I believe some of my faults were due to pausing the EMC while interpolating. Not
a good idea.



--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Martin Dobbins <trainnutz@...> wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> I'm happy you've found a solution that is working for you (at least on the
test pieces).  Just remember when you get on to the main job that has caused you
so many headaches, nil desperandum if things don't go exactly right on the first
attempt or two. 
>
> Get back to us if you have problems and we'll try to help, better still if
everything goes just as it should let us know that too.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Martin
>
> --- On Sun, 5/31/09, <dnldkempton@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       It appears Martin may have had the correct answer from the
beginning..all my issues I had previously blamed on myself, mechanical failure,
or loose parts seem to have vanished.
>
>
>
> I put together an old computer I was just about to throw away.. luckily, I had
just enough parts from about 4 different computers to make one. I had to pull
the CD drive from the Sherline computer, since mine was toast..
>
>
>
> After loading Lunix, configuring my .ini file, and doing some cuts.. I'm
finally happy. 4 test pieces have turned out flawlessly!! ! Thats a record for
me..!
>
>
>
> My Sherline computer was faulty from the beginning.. creating lags, and
allowing the steppers to "over step" from time to time. It's unfortunate I
recieved a faulty computer, but I learned alot more than I would have if it had
worked correctly out of the box. This kind of thing happens.. but I'm glad it's
finally working.
>
>
>
> --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "dnldkempton" <dnldkempton@ ...> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I believe I have a couple computers laying around here.. I suppose I could
cobble one together.
>
> >
>
> > The Z axis had just raised itself above the workpiece, and cleared
everything going 0,0,0 to begin the next pass when this happened. It moved with
"authority" when plunging down into the workpiece. Seemed to me to be a
computer/software glitch, but if I knew for sure, I wouldn't have to ask for
help at every turn.
>
> >
>
> > I also noticed this in the past.. when I jogged the machine manually,
sometimes it would not stop when I let off the arrow keys. It would continue
moving for sometimes up to 3-4 inches. A reboot made it react like normal
again.. stop moving as soon as I let off the key. This raise any flags?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "Harry Brill Jr." <proaudioguy@ >
wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > Don't you have a spare around the house you could use?  Seems like I'm
always finding another old computer in my garage and putting it by the road.  I
have working 6 laptops with serial and parallel ports
>
> > >
>
> > > Harry Brill Jr.
>
> > >
>
> > > --- On Sat, 5/30/09, dnldkempton <dnldkempton@ > wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > From: dnldkempton <dnldkempton@ >
>
> > > Subject: [SherlineCNC] Re: Constant Sherline issues..
>
> > > To: SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com
>
> > > Date: Saturday, May 30, 2009, 1:04 PM
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >       I appreciate any and all input!
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > Tonight, I was "lucky" enough to see the Z axis fault in action. When
nearly completing a test piece in aluminum (the MDF piece was flawless), the X/Y
axis zero'ed to begin the last pass, but while watching the readout on the
computer, the Z axis kept moving downward even after the software had moved on
to the X axis movement. Z axis stated .170" and the Z axis kept moving about
another .250 past that. Lucky I was there to stop the stepper motors.. I don't
know where the Z axis would have stopped moving.
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > Thinking I should swap this computer out still.. :(
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "alenz2002" <alenz@> wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > >
>
> > >
>
> > > > --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "Doug Rundell" <drundell1@> wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > > >
>
> > >
>
> > > > > Fred,
>
> > >
>
> > > > >
>
> > >
>
> > > > > Shouldn't the test work with motors also?
>
> > >
>
> > > >
>
> > >
>
> > > >
>
> > >
>
> > > > Doug,
>
> > >
>
> > > > Fred was a bit brief in his description and a crucial point may have
been missed.
>
> > >
>
> > > > Using Fred's method set the hand wheel to zero by approaching it in a CW
direction. Now set the DI to zero. Next turn the hand wheel CCW one turn and
then return it back to zero. Verify that the DI returned to zero. (It should if
the system is mechanically sound, but this is not backlash). Now turn the hand
wheel one turn CW and then back to zero. The reading on the DI will indicate
backlash. It will surely not be zero, however, the closer the better. Backlash
is the difference in actual position that occurs when approached from opposite
directions and is a combination of slop in the lead screw/nut, lead screw end
play and friction/load vs. flexibility of the machine. The latter has more
effect than one might suppose and in the real world can never be absolute zero.
>
> > >
>
> > > > Al
>
> > >
>
> > > > PS This procedure should be repeatable using steppers also.
>
> > >
>
> > > > al
>
> > >
>
> > > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> > >
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Great, it's good to know things are going right for you at last.  I'm not sure
what you mean by pausing EMC while interpolating, do you have G61 active?  G64
is usually active by default.

Martin

--- On Tue, 6/2/09, dnldkempton  wrote:

















       My distributor cover turned out pretty good. My settings for the finishing
passes were a little too slow, but I now know better..



I believe some of my faults were due to pausing the EMC while interpolating. Not
a good idea.



--- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, Martin Dobbins <trainnutz@. ..> wrote:

>

> Don,

>

> I'm happy you've found a solution that is working for you (at least on the
test pieces).  Just remember when you get on to the main job that has caused you
so many headaches, nil desperandum if things don't go exactly right on the first
attempt or two. 

>

> Get back to us if you have problems and we'll try to help, better still if
everything goes just as it should let us know that too.

>

> Cheers,

>

> Martin

>

> --- On Sun, 5/31/09, <dnldkempton@ ...> wrote:

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>       It appears Martin may have had the correct answer from the
beginning..all my issues I had previously blamed on myself, mechanical failure,
or loose parts seem to have vanished.

>

>

>

> I put together an old computer I was just about to throw away.. luckily, I had
just enough parts from about 4 different computers to make one. I had to pull
the CD drive from the Sherline computer, since mine was toast..

>

>

>

> After loading Lunix, configuring my .ini file, and doing some cuts.. I'm
finally happy. 4 test pieces have turned out flawlessly!! ! Thats a record for
me..!

>

>

>

> My Sherline computer was faulty from the beginning.. creating lags, and
allowing the steppers to "over step" from time to time. It's unfortunate I
recieved a faulty computer, but I learned alot more than I would have if it had
worked correctly out of the box. This kind of thing happens.. but I'm glad it's
finally working.

>

>

>

> --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "dnldkempton" <dnldkempton@ ...> wrote:

>

> >

>

> > I believe I have a couple computers laying around here.. I suppose I could
cobble one together.

>

> >

>

> > The Z axis had just raised itself above the workpiece, and cleared
everything going 0,0,0 to begin the next pass when this happened. It moved with
"authority" when plunging down into the workpiece. Seemed to me to be a
computer/software glitch, but if I knew for sure, I wouldn't have to ask for
help at every turn.

>

> >

>

> > I also noticed this in the past.. when I jogged the machine manually,
sometimes it would not stop when I let off the arrow keys. It would continue
moving for sometimes up to 3-4 inches. A reboot made it react like normal
again.. stop moving as soon as I let off the key. This raise any flags?

>

> >

>

> >

>

> >

>

> > --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "Harry Brill Jr." <proaudioguy@ >
wrote:

>

> > >

>

> > > Don't you have a spare around the house you could use?  Seems like I'm
always finding another old computer in my garage and putting it by the road.  I
have working 6 laptops with serial and parallel ports

>

> > >

>

> > > Harry Brill Jr.

>

> > >

>

> > > --- On Sat, 5/30/09, dnldkempton <dnldkempton@ > wrote:

>

> > >

>

> > > From: dnldkempton <dnldkempton@ >

>

> > > Subject: [SherlineCNC] Re: Constant Sherline issues..

>

> > > To: SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com

>

> > > Date: Saturday, May 30, 2009, 1:04 PM

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >       I appreciate any and all input!

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > > Tonight, I was "lucky" enough to see the Z axis fault in action. When
nearly completing a test piece in aluminum (the MDF piece was flawless), the X/Y
axis zero'ed to begin the last pass, but while watching the readout on the
computer, the Z axis kept moving downward even after the software had moved on
to the X axis movement. Z axis stated .170" and the Z axis kept moving about
another .250 past that. Lucky I was there to stop the stepper motors.. I don't
know where the Z axis would have stopped moving.

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > > Thinking I should swap this computer out still.. :(

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > > --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "alenz2002" <alenz@> wrote:

>

> > >

>

> > > >

>

> > >

>

> > > > --- In SherlineCNC@ yahoogroups. com, "Doug Rundell" <drundell1@> wrote:

>

> > >

>

> > > > >

>

> > >

>

> > > > > Fred,

>

> > >

>

> > > > >

>

> > >

>

> > > > > Shouldn't the test work with motors also?

>

> > >

>

> > > >

>

> > >

>

> > > >

>

> > >

>

> > > > Doug,

>

> > >

>

> > > > Fred was a bit brief in his description and a crucial point may have
been missed.

>

> > >

>

> > > > Using Fred's method set the hand wheel to zero by approaching it in a CW
direction. Now set the DI to zero. Next turn the hand wheel CCW one turn and
then return it back to zero. Verify that the DI returned to zero. (It should if
the system is mechanically sound, but this is not backlash). Now turn the hand
wheel one turn CW and then back to zero. The reading on the DI will indicate
backlash. It will surely not be zero, however, the closer the better. Backlash
is the difference in actual position that occurs when approached from opposite
directions and is a combination of slop in the lead screw/nut, lead screw end
play and friction/load vs. flexibility of the machine. The latter has more
effect than one might suppose and in the real world can never be absolute zero.

>

> > >

>

> > > > Al

>

> > >

>

> > > > PS This procedure should be repeatable using steppers also.

>

> > >

>

> > > > al

>

> > >

>

> > > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> > >

>

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Unless you are talking about 3-5 pieces a month you should look into one of the
many places that does laser cutting or CNC punching.  Their tooling charges are
low and per part cost very reasonable.  I would only use the Sherline for
prototyping.

We have used www.farwestfabricators.com  www.accrafab.com but there are many
many others to pick from.

The sherline is handy but not really for production work.... unless it's very
minor or very low volume.

Vince


--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Kenny Gorman <kgorman@...> wrote:
>
> I bought a used 5000 series mill on craigslist just the other day
> because of the good price.  I have a couple of newbie questions.
>
> I intend to mill T6061 into various small custom brackets, adapters,
> and mounts for our motorsports business.  Mainly to hold motorsports
> sensors.  Perhaps eventually going CAD/CAM CNC (I know CAD very well
> already).  Most parts will be flat or 'L' shaped brackets most less
> than 6" square and likely 1/8" thick. I don't currently have any
> experience with machining at all.  Like zero.  I believe the 5000 is
> up for the task right?
>
> I believe I will need to end mill, drill, and possibly bore various
> holes and shapes.  I will likely use a bender on finished parts vs
> trying to make 'L' brackets out of one billet piece (I think..).  The
> 5000 came with various collets and the milling vice.
>
> Anyone know what types of tools to get?  I know I need an end-mill and
> a drill setup at a minimum.  I am thinking I might need a turn plate
> to do larger holes?  Where is the best place to get this stuff?
> Sherline direct?  I was hoping there would be a 'starter kit' of tools
> for newb's like me.
>
> Anyone got a good reference for a newbie like me to help me get
> started with the basics?  Sorry if these questions are silly.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Kenny
>

Sorry for the delay, but work has been busy. What I meant was pausing the
software by clicking on the pause button while EMC was running the program. On
occasion, I would pause the computer to cool down the motors, but a friend who
has a CNC router recommended I do not pause unless I "step" back a couple
commands. I haven't paused the software, and have no problems since. He said if
I stop it during it's interpolation, I run the risk of it not following the
correct path, or clearing certain registers. Last major mess up was directly
after pausing EMC. It somehow decided the Z axis zero was where the axis was
after I unpaused it. (about -4mm into the workpiece).

I may not be explaining it as accurately as he did to me, but it sounded like he
has more experience with CNC than I do. It worked too.. so I'm a believer for
now.

I am not writing my own code BTW, unless it is something simple. I have been
using MeshCam.

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Martin Dobbins <trainnutz@...> wrote:
>
> Great, it's good to know things are going right for you at last.  I'm not sure
what you mean by pausing EMC while interpolating, do you have G61 active?  G64
is usually active by default.
>
> Martin
>
> --- On Tue, 6/2/09, dnldkempton  wrote:
>
>
>
>

Hi,

As promised, this is the status of my headstock after replacing the bearings
with new ones purchased from Sherline.
First I would like to make it clear that I did not have any noticeable
problems when using the standard pulleys and speeds - neither noise or heat.
The bearing replacement was done just to reduce the heat issue.

So, the result is that there is no significant change in the generated heat
and as far as I'm concerned it is still unusable at high speeds.
It is probably usable at about 5000rpm but that isn't my target speed.

After another round of emails with Sherline I was asked about the tightness
of the bearing fit in the headstock pockets, to which I replied that the
bearings were difficult to remove and very tight to install.
So the current analysis is that there is too much pressure on the bearing
outer race which is the probable cause for the excessive heat.
I haven't decided yet whether I will try to bore the headstock pockets or
not.
I will update again when I have more info.

Kenny


On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...> wrote:

>
>
> Hi Kenny,
>
> Thanks! Looking forward to your posts.
>
> Alan KM6VV
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > On Behalf Of Kenny
> >
> > HI,
> >
> > Since I am the customer, I will update here after the new bearings are
> > installed and tested.
> > Thanks to Dan for his assistance.
> >
> > Kenny
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've been running the 10K RPM pulley set with the motor speed set to max for
hours while cutting printed circuit boards. I've got a stock 2000 mill.

I'm not sure if this is of much help... Sounds like something like the bearing
pre-loading is just a little out of adjustment (tight).

--- On Wed, 6/10/09, Kenny <nekmech@...> wrote:

From: Kenny <nekmech@...>
Subject: Re: [SherlineCNC] Re: 10k Pulley Upgrade -> Hot Spindle
To: SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 10, 2009, 3:39 PM

















       Hi,



As promised, this is the status of my headstock after replacing the bearings

with new ones purchased from Sherline.

First I would like to make it clear that I did not have any noticeable

problems when using the standard pulleys and speeds - neither noise or heat.

The bearing replacement was done just to reduce the heat issue.



So, the result is that there is no significant change in the generated heat

and as far as I'm concerned it is still unusable at high speeds.

It is probably usable at about 5000rpm but that isn't my target speed.



After another round of emails with Sherline I was asked about the tightness

of the bearing fit in the headstock pockets, to which I replied that the

bearings were difficult to remove and very tight to install.

So the current analysis is that there is too much pressure on the bearing

outer race which is the probable cause for the excessive heat.

I haven't decided yet whether I will try to bore the headstock pockets or

not.

I will update again when I have more info.



Kenny



On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@sbcglobal. net> wrote:



>

>

> Hi Kenny,

>

> Thanks! Looking forward to your posts.

>

> Alan KM6VV

>

>

> > -----Original Message-----

> > On Behalf Of Kenny

> >

> > HI,

> >

> > Since I am the customer, I will update here after the new bearings are

> > installed and tested.

> > Thanks to Dan for his assistance.

> >

> > Kenny

>

>

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Kenny,

Thanks for the report!

Did Sherline offer to look at the headstock for you?

Alan  KM6VV

> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Kenny
>
> Hi,
>
> As promised, this is the status of my headstock after replacing the
> bearings
> with new ones purchased from Sherline.
> First I would like to make it clear that I did not have any noticeable
> problems when using the standard pulleys and speeds - neither noise or
> heat.
> The bearing replacement was done just to reduce the heat issue.
>
> So, the result is that there is no significant change in the generated
> heat
> and as far as I'm concerned it is still unusable at high speeds.
> It is probably usable at about 5000rpm but that isn't my target speed.
>
> After another round of emails with Sherline I was asked about the
> tightness
> of the bearing fit in the headstock pockets, to which I replied that the
> bearings were difficult to remove and very tight to install.
> So the current analysis is that there is too much pressure on the bearing
> outer race which is the probable cause for the excessive heat.
> I haven't decided yet whether I will try to bore the headstock pockets or
> not.
> I will update again when I have more info.
>
> Kenny
>
>
> On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Kenny,
> >
> > Thanks! Looking forward to your posts.
> >
> > Alan KM6VV
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > On Behalf Of Kenny
> > >
> > > HI,
> > >
> > > Since I am the customer, I will update here after the new bearings are
> > > installed and tested.
> > > Thanks to Dan for his assistance.
> > >
> > > Kenny
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Jim, it's not the preload, I've chased down that avenue.
Alan, no they didn't but I'm pretty sure that I can ship it to them and have
it checked (perhaps for a fee) but since I'm on a different continent I'm
not sure I want to go that route yet.

Kenny

On Wed, Jun 10, 2009 at 11:29 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...>wrote:

>
>
> Hi Kenny,
>
> Thanks for the report!
>
> Did Sherline offer to look at the headstock for you?
>
>
> Alan KM6VV
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > On Behalf Of Kenny
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > As promised, this is the status of my headstock after replacing the
> > bearings
> > with new ones purchased from Sherline.
> > First I would like to make it clear that I did not have any noticeable
> > problems when using the standard pulleys and speeds - neither noise or
> > heat.
> > The bearing replacement was done just to reduce the heat issue.
> >
> > So, the result is that there is no significant change in the generated
> > heat
> > and as far as I'm concerned it is still unusable at high speeds.
> > It is probably usable at about 5000rpm but that isn't my target speed.
> >
> > After another round of emails with Sherline I was asked about the
> > tightness
> > of the bearing fit in the headstock pockets, to which I replied that the
> > bearings were difficult to remove and very tight to install.
> > So the current analysis is that there is too much pressure on the bearing
> > outer race which is the probable cause for the excessive heat.
> > I haven't decided yet whether I will try to bore the headstock pockets or
> > not.
> > I will update again when I have more info.
> >
> > Kenny
> >
> >
> > On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Alan Marconett
<KM6VV@...<KM6VV%40sbcglobal.net>
> >
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Kenny,
> > >
> > > Thanks! Looking forward to your posts.
> > >
> > > Alan KM6VV
> > >
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > On Behalf Of Kenny
> > > >
> > > > HI,
> > > >
> > > > Since I am the customer, I will update here after the new bearings
> are
> > > > installed and tested.
> > > > Thanks to Dan for his assistance.
> > > >
> > > > Kenny
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I talked to Sherline about the 10K spindle and they said they adjust the preload
differently.  They said it's best to order the spindle with the 10K pulleys
rather than changing it over later for that reason.  I think if reducing the
preload didn't help there is some sort of bearing alignment issue or a bent
spindle or something.

VK



--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Kenny <nekmech@...> wrote:
>
> Jim, it's not the preload, I've chased down that avenue.
> Alan, no they didn't but I'm pretty sure that I can ship it to them and have
> it checked (perhaps for a fee) but since I'm on a different continent I'm
> not sure I want to go that route yet.
>
> Kenny
>
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2009 at 11:29 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Kenny,
> >
> > Thanks for the report!
> >
> > Did Sherline offer to look at the headstock for you?
> >
> >
> > Alan KM6VV
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > On Behalf Of Kenny
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > As promised, this is the status of my headstock after replacing the
> > > bearings
> > > with new ones purchased from Sherline.
> > > First I would like to make it clear that I did not have any noticeable
> > > problems when using the standard pulleys and speeds - neither noise or
> > > heat.
> > > The bearing replacement was done just to reduce the heat issue.
> > >
> > > So, the result is that there is no significant change in the generated
> > > heat
> > > and as far as I'm concerned it is still unusable at high speeds.
> > > It is probably usable at about 5000rpm but that isn't my target speed.
> > >
> > > After another round of emails with Sherline I was asked about the
> > > tightness
> > > of the bearing fit in the headstock pockets, to which I replied that the
> > > bearings were difficult to remove and very tight to install.
> > > So the current analysis is that there is too much pressure on the bearing
> > > outer race which is the probable cause for the excessive heat.
> > > I haven't decided yet whether I will try to bore the headstock pockets or
> > > not.
> > > I will update again when I have more info.
> > >
> > > Kenny
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Alan Marconett
<KM6VV@...<KM6VV%40sbcglobal.net>
> > >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Kenny,
> > > >
> > > > Thanks! Looking forward to your posts.
> > > >
> > > > Alan KM6VV
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > On Behalf Of Kenny
> > > > >
> > > > > HI,
> > > > >
> > > > > Since I am the customer, I will update here after the new bearings
> > are
> > > > > installed and tested.
> > > > > Thanks to Dan for his assistance.
> > > > >
> > > > > Kenny
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Vince, after replacing my bearings I set the preload nut very loose and am
sure my problem is not preload related.
Doing the 3-jaw chuck spin test, my chuck can make more than 2.5 turns with
a flick of my wrist, so I'm sure it isn't too tight.

I strongly believe now that the 10k upgrade should not be attempted on an
old headstock (mine is over 10 years old) and agree that it would be better
to purchase the spindle configured for 10k even if the 10k option isn't
going to be used straight off the bat.
There is the slower speed half of the pulley that can be used for machining
while having the option for high speed at a later time.

Kenny

On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 1:44 AM, Vince <kurpan@...> wrote:

>
>
> I talked to Sherline about the 10K spindle and they said they adjust the
> preload differently. They said it's best to order the spindle with the 10K
> pulleys rather than changing it over later for that reason. I think if
> reducing the preload didn't help there is some sort of bearing alignment
> issue or a bent spindle or something.
>
> VK
>
>
> --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com <SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com>, Kenny
> <nekmech@...> wrote:
> >
> > Jim, it's not the preload, I've chased down that avenue.
> > Alan, no they didn't but I'm pretty sure that I can ship it to them and
> have
> > it checked (perhaps for a fee) but since I'm on a different continent I'm
> > not sure I want to go that route yet.
> >
> > Kenny
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 10, 2009 at 11:29 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...>wrote:
>
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Kenny,
> > >
> > > Thanks for the report!
> > >
> > > Did Sherline offer to look at the headstock for you?
> > >
> > >
> > > Alan KM6VV
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > On Behalf Of Kenny
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > As promised, this is the status of my headstock after replacing the
> > > > bearings
> > > > with new ones purchased from Sherline.
> > > > First I would like to make it clear that I did not have any
> noticeable
> > > > problems when using the standard pulleys and speeds - neither noise
> or
> > > > heat.
> > > > The bearing replacement was done just to reduce the heat issue.
> > > >
> > > > So, the result is that there is no significant change in the
> generated
> > > > heat
> > > > and as far as I'm concerned it is still unusable at high speeds.
> > > > It is probably usable at about 5000rpm but that isn't my target
> speed.
> > > >
> > > > After another round of emails with Sherline I was asked about the
> > > > tightness
> > > > of the bearing fit in the headstock pockets, to which I replied that
> the
> > > > bearings were difficult to remove and very tight to install.
> > > > So the current analysis is that there is too much pressure on the
> bearing
> > > > outer race which is the probable cause for the excessive heat.
> > > > I haven't decided yet whether I will try to bore the headstock
> pockets or
> > > > not.
> > > > I will update again when I have more info.
> > > >
> > > > Kenny
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...<KM6VV%
> 40sbcglobal.net>
> > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Kenny,
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks! Looking forward to your posts.
> > > > >
> > > > > Alan KM6VV
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > On Behalf Of Kenny
> > > > > >
> > > > > > HI,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Since I am the customer, I will update here after the new
> bearings
> > > are
> > > > > > installed and tested.
> > > > > > Thanks to Dan for his assistance.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kenny
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am new to machining and was initially looking at manual machines but I
couldn't pass my machines up. I ended up getting a lathe and a mill with the
controller. The machines are from intelitek from their spectralite line. The cam
software that came with the machines needed a dongle that didn't work. I ended
up paying for the upgrade to their newer software so that I can get to
machining.

I adjusted the preload and the gib on the saddle (i think its called) the part
underneath the cross slide and its doing much better but still getting a little
chatter. One of my friends (was a machininst 15 years ago) said he couldn't
figure out what was going on.

I have no clue what RPM in turning at but I know I can do a .01 OD at 6ipm with
just a little complaining from the machine but still leaves a decent finish. I
was looking on the sherline site and they had a video of a .05 OD and I can only
dream of doing that.

Any suggestions as to what else to look at? I apologize for the lack of
knowledge, I promise to learn more as time goes on.

Mike

The first thing you might want to look at is some speed and feed chats,
there are charts for nearly any material you wish to cut. If you have a
brand of tool you like to use, the tool maker may have charts for their
cutting tools that match the differences in their tools. If you are using
generic tools, there are lots of generic speed and feed charts. Basically a
speed and feed chart is just using years of trial and error by a lot of
other people to come up with an ideal cutting speed for finish and tool
life. A tachometer helps. You can get a fancy digital one or even one with
feedback to a motor controller to keep the speed right on. On the other end
of things you can get a cheep mechanical one. There is one floating around
for the Sherline that is simply a piece of paper with rings of black and
white dashes and uses the fact that a xenon or florescent light, plugged
into the wall, flashes off and on 120 times a second (60 hz * one positive
and one negative per cycle) as a timer to make the proper rpm mark stand
still, like a timing light does on a car engine. Or you can just ball park
it, 100% = top speed 50% = half that ect. On the speed and feed charts, they
assume lots of cooling fluid and a very ridged machine. I drop the surface
feet per min to about 40% of the recommended (then use that modified number
to find the rpm and ipm) for use on my Sherline and get reasonable results

----- Original Message -----
From: "crackerkorean" <drcrackmunch@...>

> I am new to machining and was initially looking at manual machines but I
couldn't pass my machines up. I ended up getting a lathe and a mill with the
controller. The machines are from intelitek from their spectralite line. The
cam software that came with the machines needed a dongle that didn't work. I
ended up paying for the upgrade to their newer software so that I can get to
machining.
>
> I adjusted the preload and the gib on the saddle (i think its called) the
part underneath the cross slide and its doing much better but still getting
a little chatter. One of my friends (was a machininst 15 years ago) said he
couldn't figure out what was going on.
>
> I have no clue what RPM in turning at but I know I can do a .01 OD at 6ipm
with just a little complaining from the machine but still leaves a decent
finish. I was looking on the sherline site and they had a video of a .05 OD
and I can only dream of doing that.
>
> Any suggestions as to what else to look at? I apologize for the lack of
knowledge, I promise to learn more as time goes on.

I am in the process of getting a tach together. Its going to use a photo
interrupter and display on four 7-segment leds. (just for a little background, I
quit my job of 8 years and went back to school, right now im playing the part of
an EE student)

I just need to get some parts together and a small amount of funds but shouldnt
be too bad to put together.

On my short list is a machinist handbook but until then I need to find some
speed and feed chart.

Im just worried that the setup on the machine still isnt where it needs to be. I
cant even use my cutoff tool no matter what speed or feed. And I need to be able
to do this, its crucial to my first project. I guess if nothing else I can use
my bandsaw and just face the backside.

I think I did find the paper tach, will have to see if i can track it down
again.

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <s.bromley@...> wrote:
>
> The first thing you might want to look at is some speed and feed chats,
> there are charts for nearly any material you wish to cut. If you have a
> brand of tool you like to use, the tool maker may have charts for their
> cutting tools that match the differences in their tools. If you are using
> generic tools, there are lots of generic speed and feed charts. Basically a
> speed and feed chart is just using years of trial and error by a lot of
> other people to come up with an ideal cutting speed for finish and tool
> life. A tachometer helps. You can get a fancy digital one or even one with
> feedback to a motor controller to keep the speed right on. On the other end
> of things you can get a cheep mechanical one. There is one floating around
> for the Sherline that is simply a piece of paper with rings of black and
> white dashes and uses the fact that a xenon or florescent light, plugged
> into the wall, flashes off and on 120 times a second (60 hz * one positive
> and one negative per cycle) as a timer to make the proper rpm mark stand
> still, like a timing light does on a car engine. Or you can just ball park
> it, 100% = top speed 50% = half that ect. On the speed and feed charts, they
> assume lots of cooling fluid and a very ridged machine. I drop the surface
> feet per min to about 40% of the recommended (then use that modified number
> to find the rpm and ipm) for use on my Sherline and get reasonable results
>

Hi Mike,

You really don't need a tach.  With the belt in the normal position, maximum is
around 3000 rpm.  The speed control is fairly linear.  With the pot turned
halfway up, speed's around 1500, etc...  Way close enough.

Read, and watch the videos, here:

http://sherline.com/testcuts.htm

Learn to machine by hand first.  Get to feel speeds and feeds.  Learn to crank
the lead screw smoothly and consistently at about 1/2 revolution per second.
That's 3 inches per minute. Once you get some good parameters established, and
are ready to power feed, increase speed and feed together to maintain the same
chip load.  That's the amount of material removed per revolution.

I would never use a power feed with a cut off tool.  Always do this by hand. 
Use the lowest speed that will cut the material, feeding in by hand just fast
enough not to chatter.  Use cutting oil.  I like Cool Tool brand.

DC

David Clark in Southern Maryland, USA

Ill have to take some pictures but there is only one positon on the lathe for
the belt and the motor is different from the standard sherline lathe, I think.
The one my lathe is a 10k rpm 110v motor. I need to measure the pulleys to see
what ratio they turn at.

I looked at the test cut videos and thats what has led me to belive that there
still might be some alignment issues etc.

Also the tach project is an excuse for me to try something out and see how it
works too.

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "a3sigma" <dcclark111@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> You really don't need a tach.  With the belt in the normal position, maximum
is around 3000 rpm.  The speed control is fairly linear.  With the pot turned
halfway up, speed's around 1500, etc...  Way close enough.
>
> Read, and watch the videos, here:
>
> http://sherline.com/testcuts.htm
>
> Learn to machine by hand first.  Get to feel speeds and feeds.  Learn to crank
the lead screw smoothly and consistently at about 1/2 revolution per second.
That's 3 inches per minute. Once you get some good parameters established, and
are ready to power feed, increase speed and feed together to maintain the same
chip load.  That's the amount of material removed per revolution.
>
> I would never use a power feed with a cut off tool.  Always do this by hand. 
Use the lowest speed that will cut the material, feeding in by hand just fast
enough not to chatter.  Use cutting oil.  I like Cool Tool brand.
>
> DC
>
> David Clark in Southern Maryland, USA
>

Here is a link to a picture of the lathe. Not quite sure how to post pictures
yet.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v609/crackerkorean/?action=view¤t=IMG_49\
74.jpg

I am fitting some makeshift handles to the handwheels so that I can manually
control the lathe. I was able to do a cutoff but it wasnt the smoothest. I did
notice the cross slide is really stiff and is hard to move. How hard should it
be to move the cross slide? (x axis not z)

>Here is a link to a picture of the lathe. Not quite sure how to post
>pictures yet.
>http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v609/crackerkorean/?action=view¤t=IMG_4\
974.jpg
>
>I am fitting some makeshift handles to the handwheels so that I can
>manually control the lathe. I was able to do a cutoff but it wasnt
>the smoothest. I did notice the cross slide is really stiff and is
>hard to move. How hard should it be to move the cross slide? (x axis
>not z)

It certainly shouldn't feel tight. I have a manual Sherline lathe,
and there is only slight resistance when turning any of the three
cranks.

It looks a little like a Sherline, but it's hard to tell.

With stepper motors connected?  It might be a little harder.  Can you
turn it with two tips of your fingers?

Alan KM6VV

crackerkorean wrote:
> Here is a link to a picture of the lathe. Not quite sure how to post pictures
yet.
>
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v609/crackerkorean/?action=view¤t=IMG_49\
74.jpg
>
> I am fitting some makeshift handles to the handwheels so that I can manually
control the lathe. I was able to do a cutoff but it wasnt the smoothest. I did
notice the cross slide is really stiff and is hard to move. How hard should it
be to move the cross slide? (x axis not z)
>

Hi

the tailstock looks like Sherline's, all the rest do not. (the cross table is
too dark to tell).

On a Sherline with a stepper mounted you feel some cogging when turning
manually. if you unplug the stepper it reverts to almost normal feel.

try to unplug the motor cable and see what happens. a short in the cable , the
connector or the driver could perhaps lead to what you described.

regards
dan pines
sherline distributor Israel
  www.sherlinetoolsdealer.blogspot.com/

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "crackerkorean" <drcrackmunch@...> wrote:
>
> Here is a link to a picture of the lathe. Not quite sure how to post pictures
yet.
>
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v609/crackerkorean/?action=view¤t=IMG_49\
74.jpg
>
> I am fitting some makeshift handles to the handwheels so that I can manually
control the lathe. I was able to do a cutoff but it wasnt the smoothest. I did
notice the cross slide is really stiff and is hard to move. How hard should it
be to move the cross slide? (x axis not z)
>

The Z axis is nice and easy to move but the X its much more tough. What would
cause the cross slide to be more tough? I am not 100% familiar with the machine
so please bear with me.

I was able to do a cut off manually but I need some practice. The lathe is a
sherline with a different motor and thrown in a spiffy steel case. Its intended
for schools hence the cover etc.

It might just be me but the sherline adjustment instructions are a bit vague.

Ok put some handles on the knobs tonight and the X axis is really hard to turn.
I indicated the cross slide and it would move several thou if i tried to turn
the knob  too hard/fast.I might just try to take apart the whole thing this
weekend and reassemble.

just out of curiosity, are the stepper motors powered up when you are
attempting to turn them by hand?  If so they should be difficult to turn
by hand because of their normal holding torque.  If not then their are
other issues you will need to look for.
-
John Guenther
'Ye Olde Pen Maker'
Sterling, Virginia


On Wed, 2009-06-17 at 03:21 +0000, crackerkorean wrote:
>
>
> Ok put some handles on the knobs tonight and the X axis is really hard
> to turn. I indicated the cross slide and it would move several thou if
> i tried to turn the knob too hard/fast.I might just try to take apart
> the whole thing this weekend and reassemble.
>
>
>
>
>

They are not powered up. I plan on taking everything apart this weekend and see
whats going on. The carriage (i think thats what its called) moves on the ways
just fine but the cross slide doenst like to move much. I wonder if there are
some worn parts, I know there is tons of back lash (.009) so something is worn.

The unit came out of a school so im sure they didnt maintain it at all.

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, John Guenther <j.guenther@...> wrote:
>
> just out of curiosity, are the stepper motors powered up when you are
> attempting to turn them by hand?  If so they should be difficult to turn
> by hand because of their normal holding torque.  If not then their are
> other issues you will need to look for.
> -
> John Guenther
> 'Ye Olde Pen Maker'
> Sterling, Virginia
>
>
> On Wed, 2009-06-17 at 03:21 +0000, crackerkorean wrote:
> >
> >
> > Ok put some handles on the knobs tonight and the X axis is really hard
> > to turn. I indicated the cross slide and it would move several thou if
> > i tried to turn the knob too hard/fast.I might just try to take apart
> > the whole thing this weekend and reassemble.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

Hello,

I'm looking for a consultant or contractor who has experience setting things up
to run on a Sherline CNC mill.

I'm a mechanical design engineer, working on a few medical products.  One of my
clients has a Sherline CNC mill, and I'd like to find someone who can do the
following:
1) import my 3D data (I use SolidWorks and can export STL, STP, IGS, etc).
2) advise me on the setup that's best for the part.
3) create the G-Code
4) maybe run a test part to verify
5) then send me the file and detailed instructions, so I can run the thing here.

If you're interested, please contact me on my work e-mail: andres [at]
dandlerdesign [dot] com.

You MUST have all of the following:
-experience running a Sherline CNC Mill
-CAM software that can import 3D files (and experience running it)

I'd love to learn how to do all of this myself, but the fact of the matter is
that I don't have the time for it.  I've had the intention of doing it for the
past 2 years, and I just can't get around to it.

Thanks!

   -Andres

We have had stepper motors seize up from use (lots of use) so I would separate
the stepper from the machine and re-test.

BTW, this machine was probably in a school so anybody's guess what it's had done
to it.

Vince

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "crackerkorean" <drcrackmunch@...> wrote:
>
> Ok put some handles on the knobs tonight and the X axis is really hard to
turn. I indicated the cross slide and it would move several thou if i tried to
turn the knob  too hard/fast.I might just try to take apart the whole thing this
weekend and reassemble.
>

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Andres Dandler <adandler@...> wrote:

> I'm looking for a consultant or contractor who has experience setting things
up to run on a Sherline CNC mill.
>
> I'm a mechanical design engineer, working on a few medical products.  One of
my clients has a Sherline CNC mill, and I'd like to find someone who can do the
following:
> 1) import my 3D data (I use SolidWorks and can export STL, STP, IGS, etc).
> 2) advise me on the setup that's best for the part.
> 3) create the G-Code
> 4) maybe run a test part to verify
> 5) then send me the file and detailed instructions, so I can run the thing
here.
>
> If you're interested, please contact me on my work e-mail: andres [at]
dandlerdesign [dot] com.
>
> You MUST have all of the following:
> -experience running a Sherline CNC Mill
> -CAM software that can import 3D files (and experience running it)
>

IMService sometimes provides turnkey solutions support with purchase of our
Servo systems.  Depending on what you want to make, I can probably help you or
others get going on your project.  Our shop usually has a Sherline mill and
lathe setup, that we use for development.  Our Vector Cad-Cam will interface to
the SolidWorks designs through IGES for 2 1/2 axis details and surfaces, or STL
can be used for 3D surfaces.

Depending on how many parts and the size and type of designs, we can either do
the project in-house, or refer you to one of our expert associates.

Fred Smith - IMService
http://www.imsrv.com

Voice: 888-451-1670 or 248-486-3600 EDT

I am hoping to take it apart this weekend. I loosened the gib screw but I cannot
mmove the gib at all. I am wondering if this is whats making it o difficult to
move this axis.

Take a small pin punch like  object and reach into the other end
and tap the gib to knock it loose.
Be sure to remove the keeper pin first.
-=RichD=-

crackerkorean wrote:
> I am hoping to take it apart this weekend. I loosened the gib screw

but I cannot mmove the gib at all. I am wondering if this is whats making

it o difficult to move this axis.

The keeper pin being the locking wire? I thought once the screw was removed the
gib could be moved.

--- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Rich Dean <toolman8@...> wrote:
>
> Take a small pin punch like  object and reach into the other end
> and tap the gib to knock it loose.
> Be sure to remove the keeper pin first.
> -=RichD=-
>
> crackerkorean wrote:
> > I am hoping to take it apart this weekend. I loosened the gib screw
>
> but I cannot mmove the gib at all. I am wondering if this is whats making
>
> it o difficult to move this axis.
>