Sabresailboat : Messages : 4245-4274 of 43141

Dave

The trick on reinstallation is to dry fit the window, then put down an outline in 3M 3" blue masking tape. If need be, put it below the frame, and then cut around the corners with a utility knife.

Remove the frame, wipe area with acetone, bed it (I used 4200) and install. You should get a bit of oozing all around. After an hour or when the 4200 has skinned, you can remove the tape and have a clean install.

I found the only leak I got was the channel glazing and not the frame to the cabin.

Barry, not sure of the 28, but on my 32, it is foam between the inner and out skins. They have a tendency to crack and fall away. If that is your problem, cut a piece of stiff styrofoam to put in there.'

john

David Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:

Barry,

Since I'm in the middle of a similar project on my S30. Let me try to answer your questions.

On the Sabre Yachts website, there is a drawing of how the window is bedded and instructions for rebedding the port. This would be a good place to start.

Removal is relatively straightforward. Remove the inside trim piece, break the seal around the port on the outside and use a wide putty knife and other devices to push the window and frame out. I used 2 putty knives one on the outside with a helper and one inside with a rubber mallet. I put the putty knife in the gap between the side of the cabin and the window frame and gently tapped the putty knife. I continued around the frame until the window popped out. Taking the window apart is straightforward.

The most challenging part is removing all the old caulk. Sabre used GE Silpruf which is an adhesive silicone caulk that is used to hold plate glass windows in their frames. It is tenacious stuff. You'll have to order it from somewhere, I ordered mine through the local Fastenal store.

After trial and error, I developed this system.

First make a tool. I found a scrap piece of oak corner molding that I trimmed down to fit the channel. Then, with the frame clamped in a vise, gently heat the caulk with a heat gun, the caulk will soften and you can either trim most of it off with a razor knife or use your homemade caulk removing tool to get most of the caulk off. Then cover the remaining caulk with a liberal dose of Dap Caulk Remover (about $3.50 at Lowe's), ignore the warning to not leave it on for more than 6 hours. Let it sit over night in a cool place (my basement worked well) so it doesn't dry out too much. Then use your homemade caulk removing tool to scrape, rub, and peel off the old caulk. You will probably need to do this a couple of time to get the worst of it off. Not a difficult job, but it can be tedious and good opportunity to practice patience.

To reassemble, you'll want to replace the vinyl glazing strip. There is only one source that I could find and they won't sell directly to you. You'll need to get a glass shop to order you a roll. The product is: http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/D/D753M_11746.html?Origin=#MoreDetails Again, its pretty easy to reassemble the window.

When I talked to the guy at the auto glass shop, he suggested that the butyl tape that the sabre drawing shows is unnecessary. The silpruf should be enough to get a good seal.

I'll know by this time tomorrow how easy they are to reinstall.

According to my S30 manual, the S30 and S28s have mahogany plywood under the stanchion bases.

Good Luck.

Dave

Identity Crisis

S30 #52

Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jun 30, 2006, at 10:00 PM, Barry Wilson wrote:

I discovered a soft spot in the core below the window/port over the galley of my S28. I think I know the challenges of repairing the core. However, how easy is it to remove and replace the window? What challenges will have I have getting the window back in and sealed properly? Once removed, must I proceed to the final repair, or can the window be replaced as part of an exploratory adventure?

Assuming I can dig out the rotten core, didn't I read of a chemical of some sort that can be used to bolster core that isn't rotten but may have been damp at one point.

And one final question. In anticipation of some rebedding tasks, does anyone know if all the stanchions are through solid glass on the S28, or are some through wood cored deck?

Thanks,

Barry Wilson

S28 II 400

Slipstream

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#4246

From: David Lochner <davelochner@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 10:52 am
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Window/port removal

John,

Thanks for the tip. That was basically my plan. Of course, now you have me thinking that using 4200 might be a better plan......

On my ports, the outside bead of the vinyl channel glazing was cut off and a bead of silicone caulk was used instead. The silicone should give a better seal as it will adhere to both the frame and the glass.

I'm not sure how structurally important the foam is. It mostly appears to be filler between the cabin liner and the out side of the cabin.

Dave

On Jul 1, 2006, at 6:01 AM, john kalinowski wrote:

Dave
�
�The trick on reinstallation is to dry fit the window, then put down an outline in 3M 3" blue masking tape. If need be, put it below the frame, and then cut around the corners with a utility knife.
�
Remove the frame, wipe area with acetone, bed it (I used 4200) and install. You should get a bit of oozing all around.� After an hour or when the 4200 has skinned, you can remove the tape and have a clean install.
�
I found the only leak I got was the channel glazing and not the frame to the cabin.
�
Barry, not sure of the 28, but on my 32, it is foam between the inner and out skins. They have a tendency to crack and fall away.� If that is your problem, cut a piece of stiff styrofoam to put in there.'
�
john

David Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
Barry,

Since I'm in the middle of a similar project on my S30. Let me try to answer your questions.

On the Sabre Yachts website, there is a drawing of how the window is bedded and instructions for rebedding the port. This would be a good place to start.

Removal is relatively straightforward. Remove the inside trim piece, break the seal around the port on the outside and use a wide putty knife and other devices to push the window and frame out. I used 2 putty knives one on the outside with a helper and one inside with a rubber mallet. I put the putty knife in the gap between the side of the cabin and the window frame and gently tapped the putty knife. I continued around the frame until the window popped out. Taking the window apart is straightforward.

The most challenging part is removing all the old caulk. Sabre used GE Silpruf which is an adhesive silicone caulk that is used to hold plate glass windows in their frames. It is tenacious stuff. You'll have to order it from somewhere, I ordered mine through the local Fastenal store.�

After trial and error, I developed this system.

First make a tool. I found a scrap piece of oak corner molding that I trimmed down to fit the channel. Then, with the frame clamped in a vise, gently heat the caulk with a heat gun, the caulk will soften and you can either trim most of it off with a razor knife or use your homemade caulk removing tool to get most of the caulk off. Then cover the remaining caulk with a liberal dose of Dap Caulk Remover (about $3.50 at Lowe's), ignore the warning to not leave it on for more than 6 hours. Let it sit over night in a cool place (my basement worked well) so it doesn't dry out too much. Then use your homemade caulk removing tool to scrape, rub, and peel off the old caulk. You will probably need to do this a couple of time to get the worst of it off. Not a difficult job, but it can be tedious and good opportunity to practice patience.

To reassemble, you'll want to replace the vinyl glazing strip. There is only one source that I could find and they won't sell directly to you. You'll need to get a glass shop to order you a roll. The product is:��http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/D/D753M_11746.html?Origin=#MoreDetails Again, its pretty easy to reassemble the window.

When I talked to the guy at the auto glass shop, he suggested that the butyl tape that the sabre drawing shows is unnecessary. The silpruf should be enough to get a good seal.

I'll know by this time tomorrow how easy they are to reinstall.

According to my S30 manual, the S30 and S28s have mahogany plywood under the stanchion bases.

Good Luck.

Dave
Identi! ty Crisis
S30 #52
Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jun 30, 2006, at 10:00 PM, Barry Wilson wrote:

I discovered a soft spot in the core�below the window/port over the galley of my S28.� I think I know the challenges of repairing the core.� However, how easy is it to remove and replace the window?� What challenges will have I have getting the window back in and sealed properly?� Once removed, must I proceed to the final repair, or can the window be replaced as part of an exploratory adventure?
�
Assuming I can dig out the rotten core, didn't I read of a chemical of some sort that can be used to bolster core that isn't rotten but may have been damp at one point.�
�
And one final question.� In anticipation of some rebedding tasks, does anyone know if all the stanchions are through solid glass on the S28, or are some through wood cored deck?
�
Thanks,
�
�
Barry Wilson
S28 II 400
Slipstream
�

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#4247

From: Grant Woodside <gewoodsiii@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 11:10 am
Subject: Boat US Boat

gewoodsiii

If you get Boat US Mag, in the current July 2006 issue, in the picture
page 18, do you know the model of the first boat?

Reply | Messages in this Topic (3)

#4248

From: "Bill Blalock" <mookiesurfs@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 1:02 pm
Subject: Telltales

mookiesurfsn...

John:

Your idea of telltales on the asym sounds great. How many do you put on? Do you keep both sides flying at all sail angles, or is it more complicated than that? While we're at it, what works best for telltales: Yarn, fabric, or something else?

Bill B

----- Original Message -----

From: john kalinowski

To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 9:41 AM

Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Spinnaker Technique

How much wind is too much? As my old buddy Mac McCathy replied when I asked if he was using a kite a windy afternoon "Put it all up. If Jesus don't like it, he will take it down for you"

with 10-12 you were just getting to point kites are fun. When you feel overpowered, drive downwind. This will help take some of the wind ou since the main will help blanket it. You also need to learn the "snake dance" where you head up to get the boat moving and the steer down losing your kenetic energy. Sort of like a fighter plane swooping down from above.

you also need to get your speed up before turning upwind. Else the boat drags, and than rolls onto it's side.

Depending upon the boat, because of the hotter angles you are sailing with an asymetricial, it is better to sheet in the main a bit and then travel it out. Basically a jib in reverse. If you have a power vang or a topping lift, you can lift the boom a bit for some extra power.

You did not give any clues as to how strapped in you had the sheets on the kite and this can make that sail unruley if you are running short on crew.

You also need to think about block placement. Most a-kites are the same size as a 170% genny. Do you have the blocks adjusted for this? If they are too far forward, you cannot control the sail properly.

A trick I used to use was to put tell tales 10" back on the luff and this helped get the sail dailed in. You let out and then crank on the sheet until the telltales are flowing.

john

John Garvin <j_garvin@...> wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I have an asymetric spinnaker that I am just now
learning how to use. I have a couple of questions
that came up this past week after pretty much freaking
out my wife....

1) How much wind is too much for a spinnaker?

The first time I tried the chute about 4-5 weeks ago,
the winds were 5 kts. It was easy to raise (I have a
spinnaker sock), trim, and be under way.

This past week, I had about 10-12 kts at about 120
degrees apparent (about 15 kts true) off my port stern
quarter with 1-2ft seas. When we deployed the chute,
the boat heeled over way too much for anyone's liking
(I was glad that I had actually clipped on as I was
practically standing on the toe rail).

2) My initial reaction was to head up into wind, but
that made it worse and then started to give me the
impression that my spinnaler was going to wrap. Was
that a dumb move?

3) My next reaction was to head down more and ease the
main sheet (my typical reaction to too much heel).
Still way too much heel.

4) I doused the chute and went on my way for the next
several hours wondering what I had done wrong.

I have a hard time believeing that the wind was too
strong. I have crewed in races where the wind was
blowing more than what we had. The only other thing I
can really thing of is the spinnaker sheet. I may
have had it too tight. If I had eased the sheet would
I have been able to head down wind more easily?

Thanks in advance for your advice?

John
S36/2

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Reply | Messages in this Topic (3)

#4249

From: "yaf001" <yaf001@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 6:01 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

yaf001

yes - it's called "Chateau Traileur DoubleWide"

From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peter Tollini
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 12:24 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

Leftover wine? Is there an English translation?

On 6/30/06, john kalinowski <sabre32sailor@...> wrote:

FWIW dept:

If you use box wine on your boat, be sure to drink it all quickly.

Many years ago, we opened and consumed a box of wine. We opened a 2nd box, but barely got started, so we left it aboard.

The next weekend was cool, so not much of the box got consumed.

It was quite tastey.

During the following week, it got very hot during Indian summer (New England term for 2 or more days of 90 degrees in the fall). On saturday, we went below, poured glasses from the box, did a toast to our wonderful warm fall sail, and promptly spit it into each other's faces 3 Stooges style. The stuff had skanked.

Moral: Drink the box within a week if not refridgerated.

Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:

We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and in the process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us. For our part, in addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas made with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice. Any favorites that don't require refrigeration? Favorite Sundowners?

Bill B

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#4250

From: Alan Baldwin <sailorab1@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 7:13 pm
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

sailorab1

For our home waters a very dry Plymouth gin martini; for the Carribean our secret recipe painkiller made with Mt Gay; for Guadeloupe Coer du Chaufe rum straight up ( the best sippin rum I ever tasted and only available on the island as far as I know), and for fun anywhere Makers Mark and Jamaican Ginger Beer ( try it, its really good).

Alan.

PS. Another great example of Sabre design, that liquor locker tucked in next to the nav station.

Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:

We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and in the process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us. For our part, in addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas made with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice. Any favorites that don't require refrigeration? Favorite Sundowners?

Bill B

Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

#4251

From: "Peter Tollini" <pete@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 7:46 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

petertr3

The family took me to a very good restaurant in Baltimore for my birthday.(Cindy Wolfe’s Charleston) The offered Pyrat XO rum, served as a brandy after the meal. I’m not a big fan of brandies or cognacs, but I could sip that stuff all night. Since then I’ve tried Mount Gay Extra Old and found it nearly as good the Pyrat at half the price. There are a lot of cask aged rums around, and someone needs to sample and report on them. I’ll make the sacrifice and volunteer.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Baldwin
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:14 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

Alan.

PS. Another great example of Sabre design, that liquor locker tucked in next to the nav station.

Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:

We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and in the process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us. For our part, in addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas made with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice. Any favorites that don't require refrigeration? Favorite Sundowners?

Bill B

Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

#4252

From: "Eric" <sabre30_36@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 9:47 pm
Subject: Re: Favorite drinks onboard

sabre30_36

Your sense of duty and willingness to sacrifice are impressive, Pete.

Eric


--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Tollini" <pete@...> wrote:
>
> The family took me to a very good restaurant in Baltimore for my
> birthday.(Cindy Wolfe's Charleston)  The offered Pyrat XO rum,
served as a
> brandy after the meal.  I'm not a big fan of brandies or cognacs, but I
> could sip that stuff all night.  Since then I've tried Mount Gay
Extra Old
> and found it nearly as good the Pyrat at half the price.   There are
a lot
> of cask aged rums around, and someone needs to sample and report on
them.
> I'll make the sacrifice and volunteer.
>
>
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Alan Baldwin
> Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:14 PM
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard
>
>
>
> For our home waters a very dry Plymouth gin martini; for the
Carribean our
> secret recipe painkiller made with Mt Gay; for Guadeloupe Coer du
Chaufe rum
> straight up ( the best sippin rum I ever tasted and only available
on the
> island as far as I know), and for fun anywhere Makers Mark and Jamaican
> Ginger Beer ( try it, its really good).
>
>
>
> Alan.
>
>
>
> PS. Another great example of Sabre design, that liquor locker tucked
in next
> to the nav station.
>
> Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:
>
> We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit
> locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and
in the
> process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an
> enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us.  For our
part, in
> addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas
made
> with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice.  Any
favorites
> that don't require refrigeration?  Favorite Sundowners?
>
> Bill B
>
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo!
>
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=41244/*http:/smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index>
> Small Business.
>

#4253

From: "Phil Shepard" <PWS-E@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 10:02 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

shep178

A “Dark and Stormy” - Ginger Beer and Rum

Phil

From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Baldwin
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:14 PMTo: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

Alan.

PS. Another great example of Sabre design, that liquor locker tucked in next to the nav station.

Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:

We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and in the process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us. For our part, in addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas made with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice. Any favorites that don't require refrigeration? Favorite Sundowners?

Bill B

Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

#4254

From: Warren Kaplan <setsail728@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 10:48 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

setsail728

For me...while underway and actively sailing, anything cold and simple will do. A cold beer or cold Sprite Zero or a Snapple.

Once on the hook and watching the sunset....An ice cold Gin and Tonic with plenty of lime....or a drink made with Cruzan Rum!!

If there is to be a fine seagoing repast while on the hook, a nice bottle of wine will do.

When sailing the BVI.....anything ice cold with a little paper pastel umbrella coming out of it is perfect....More for the mood than anything else!!

Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:

The family took me to a very good restaurant in Baltimore for my birthday.(Cindy Wolfe�s Charleston) The offered Pyrat XO rum, served as a brandy after the meal. I�m not a big fan of brandies or cognacs, but I could sip that stuff all night. Since then I�ve tried Mount Gay Extra Old and found it nearly as good the Pyrat at half the price. There are a lot of cask aged rums around, and someone needs to sample and report on them. I�ll make the sacrifice and volunteer.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Baldwin
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:14 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

For our home waters a very dry Plymouth gin martini; for the Carribean our secret recipe painkiller made with Mt Gay; for Guadeloupe Coer du Chaufe rum straight up ( the best sippin rum I ever tasted and only available on the island as far as I know), and for fun anywhere Makers Mark and Jamaican Ginger Beer ( try it, its really good).

Alan.

PS. Another great example of Sabre design, that liquor locker tucked in next to the nav station.

Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:

We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and in the process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us. For our part, in addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas made with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice. Any favorites that don't require refrigeration? Favorite Sundowners?

Bill B

Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

Warren Kaplan

__________________________________________________
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#4255

From: "Bill Blalock" <mookiesurfs@...>
Date: Sat Jul 1, 2006 11:39 pm
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

mookiesurfsn...

That's the way to take one for the team, Pete!

----- Original Message -----

From: Peter Tollini

To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:46 PM

Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

The family took me to a very good restaurant in Baltimore for my birthday.(Cindy Wolfe�s Charleston) The offered Pyrat XO rum, served as a brandy after the meal. I�m not a big fan of brandies or cognacs, but I could sip that stuff all night. Since then I�ve tried Mount Gay Extra Old and found it nearly as good the Pyrat at half the price. There are a lot of cask aged rums around, and someone needs to sample and report on them. I�ll make the sacrifice and volunteer.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Baldwin
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:14 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Favorite drinks onboard

For our home waters a very dry Plymouth gin martini; for the Carribean our secret recipe painkiller made with Mt Gay; for Guadeloupe Coer du Chaufe rum straight up ( the best sippin rum I ever tasted and only available on the island as far as I know), and for fun anywhere Makers Mark and Jamaican Ginger Beer ( try it, its really good).

Alan.

PS. Another great example of Sabre design, that liquor locker tucked in next to the nav station.

Bill Blalock <mookiesurfs@...> wrote:

We stopped by the boat today to turn on the fridge and check the spirit locker in preparation for viewing the shuttle attempt tomorrow, and in the process it occurred to me that 'Favorite Drinks Onboard' could be an enjoyable thread, now that the sailing season is upon us. For our part, in addition to the beer we use to ballast the boat, we enjoy Margaritas made with Milagro Tequila, frozen Limeade, Triple Sec, and ice. Any favorites that don't require refrigeration? Favorite Sundowners?

Bill B

Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

#4256

From: Greg Allen <gregallen1@...>
Date: Sun Jul 2, 2006 9:13 am
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Window/port removal

mga9400

Dave,

I just replaced the 3/16 Lexan portlight over the Nav station with 1/4 safety glass and the local boatyard portlight guru suggested GE Silicon II to rebed the glass and life caulk to rebed the frame.� �

It's amazing how much clear, clean glass adds to a boat.

Greg

On Jul 1, 2006, at 6:52 AM, David Lochner wrote:

John,

Thanks for the tip. That was basically my plan. Of course, now you have me thinking that using 4200 might be a better plan......

On my ports, the outside bead of the vinyl channel glazing was cut off and a bead of silicone caulk was used instead. The silicone should give a better seal as it will adhere to both the frame and the glass.

I'm not sure how structurally important the foam is. It mostly appears to be filler between the cabin liner and the out side of the cabin.

Dave

On Jul 1, 2006, at 6:01 AM, john kalinowski wrote:

Dave
�
�The trick on reinstallation is to dry fit the window, then put down an outline in 3M 3" blue masking tape. If need be, put it below the frame, and then cut around the corners with a utility knife.
�
Remove the frame, wipe area with acetone, bed it (I used 4200) and install. You should get a bit of oozing all around.� After an hour or when the 4200 has skinned, you can remove the tape and have a clean install.
�
I found the only leak I got was the channel glazing and not the frame to the cabin.
�
Barry, not sure of the 28, but on my 32, it is foam between the inner and out skins. They have a tendency to crack and fall away.� If that is your problem, cut a piece of stiff styrofoam to put in there.'
�
john

David Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
Barry,

Since I'm in the middle of a similar project on my S30. Let me try to answer your questions.

On the Sabre Yachts website, there is a drawing of how the window is bedded and instructions for rebedding the port. This would be a good place to start.

Removal is relatively straightforward. Remove the inside trim piece, break the seal around the port on the outside and use a wide putty knife and other devices to push the window and frame out. I used 2 putty knives one on the outside with a helper and one inside with a rubber mallet. I put the putty knife in the gap between the side of the cabin and the window frame and gently tapped the putty knife. I continued around the frame until the window popped out. Taking the window apart is straightforward.

The most challenging part is removing all the old caulk. Sabre used GE Silpruf which is an adhesive silicone caulk that is used to hold plate glass windows in their frames. It is tenacious stuff. You'll have to order it from somewhere, I ordered mine through the local Fastenal store.�

After trial and error, I developed this system.

First make a tool. I found a scrap piece of oak corner molding that I trimmed down to fit the channel. Then, with the frame clamped in a vise, gently heat the caulk with a heat gun, the caulk will soften and you can either trim most of it off with a razor knife or use your homemade caulk removing tool to get most of the caulk off. Then cover the remaining caulk with a liberal dose of Dap Caulk Remover (about $3.50 at Lowe's), ignore the warning to not leave it on for more than 6 hours. Let it sit over night in a cool place (my basement worked well) so it doesn't dry out too much. Then use your homemade caulk removing tool to scrape, rub, and peel off the old caulk. You will probably need to do this a couple of time to get the worst of it off. Not a difficult job, but it can be tedious and good opportunity to practice patience.

To reassemble, you'll want to replace the vinyl glazing strip. There is only one source that I could find and they won't sell directly to you. You'll need to get a glass shop to order you a roll. The product is:��http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/D/D753M_11746.html?Origin=#MoreDetails Again, its pretty easy to reassemble the window.

When I talked to the guy at the auto glass shop, he suggested that the butyl tape that the sabre drawing shows is unnecessary. The silpruf should be enough to get a good seal.

I'll know by this time tomorrow how easy they are to reinstall.

According to my S30 manual, the S30 and S28s have mahogany plywood under the stanchion bases.

Good Luck.

Dave
Identi! ty Crisis
S30 #52
Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jun 30, 2006, at 10:00 PM, Barry Wilson wrote:

I discovered a soft spot in the core�below the window/port over the galley of my S28.� I think I know the challenges of repairing the core.� However, how easy is it to remove and replace the window?� What challenges will have I have getting the window back in and sealed properly?� Once removed, must I proceed to the final repair, or can the window be replaced as part of an exploratory adventure?
�
Assuming I can dig out the rotten core, didn't I read of a chemical of some sort that can be used to bolster core that isn't rotten but may have been damp at one point.�
�
And one final question.� In anticipation of some rebedding tasks, does anyone know if all the stanchions are through solid glass on the S28, or are some through wood cored deck?
�
Thanks,
�
�
Barry Wilson
S28 II 400
Slipstream
�

Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2�/min or less.

Greg Allen

gregallen1@...

781-639-4688

#4257

From: "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@...>
Date: Sun Jul 2, 2006 9:51 pm
Subject: Cabin Lights

philliechees...

My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned them….Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton, Xenon, LED?

Thx

Mike

Divided Sky

1990 S36/100

#4258

From: "Peter Tollini" <pete@...>
Date: Sun Jul 2, 2006 10:10 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

petertr3

Mike –

We replaced the yellow plastic cylinders with large Frigast Cabin lights in polished brass with 20w xenon bulbs. The little ones further aft were replaced with the small version with 10w xenon. Aesthetically pleasing but hard on the wallet. One of the few upgrades initiated by the Admiral.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Finley, Mike
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 5:52 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

Thx

Mike

Divided Sky

1990 S36/100

#4259

From: "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@...>
Date: Sun Jul 2, 2006 11:07 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

philliechees...

…thanks Pete

From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peter Tollini
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 6:11 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

Mike –

Pete

Thx

Mike

Divided Sky

1990 S36/100

______________________________________________________________________
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
______________________________________________________________________

#4260

From: "Bill Blalock" <mookiesurfs@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 12:49 am
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

mookiesurfsn...

My wallet is not as brave as Pete's, and my Admiral has left the service, so I had no problem going with the ABI xenon replacements. If you care at all about quality of light, xenon is a good choice. I experimented with a much (MUCH) more expensive LED fixture, and the light brightness, warmth, and evenness were poor. It's now in the head. The good news is that LED power draw is as low as advertised, and I leave it on all night as a night light for the swabbies. Fluorescents generally lack warmth, although the ones from Alpenglo get consistently favorable reviews-I have not tried theirs.

Bill B

----- Original Message -----

From: Finley, Mike

To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 5:51 PM

Subject: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned them�.Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton, Xenon, LED?

Thx

Mike

Divided Sky

1990 S36/100

#4261

From: "Peter Tollini" <pete@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 2:15 am
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

petertr3

The Alpenglows are a good investment. We’ve got them replacing the dome lights in the galley, Nav station and head.

Good decision.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Blalock
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:50 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

Bill B

----- Original Message -----

From: Finley, Mike

To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 5:51 PM

Subject: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights

My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned them….Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton, Xenon, LED?

Thx

Mike

Divided Sky

1990 S36/100

#4262

From: "workshoe99" <workshoe99@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 3:51 am
Subject: Re: Cabin Lights

workshoe99

We only have one Alpenglow right now over the galley sink but we use
it all the time. It is amazing when you give a glance at the Bass
circuit board and see it drawing just 2 amps then turn on two dome
lights and the draw gets into two digets! Expensive but worth it. We
have the red   and white so on passages, the dim red is perfect.

Jan


--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Tollini" <pete@...> wrote:
>
> The Alpenglows are a good investment.  We've got them replacing the dome
> lights in the galley, Nav station and head.
>
> Good decision.
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Bill Blalock
> Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:50 PM
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights
>
>
>
> My wallet is not as brave as Pete's, and my Admiral has left the
service, so
> I had no problem going with the ABI xenon replacements.  If you care
at all
> about quality of light, xenon is a good choice.  I experimented with
a much
> (MUCH) more expensive LED fixture, and the light brightness, warmth, and
> evenness were poor.  It's now in the head.  The good news is that
LED power
> draw is as low as advertised, and I leave it on all night as a night
light
> for the swabbies.  Fluorescents generally lack warmth, although the ones
> from Alpenglo get consistently favorable reviews-I have not tried
theirs.
>
> Bill B
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Finley, Mike <mailto:mfinley@...>
>
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 5:51 PM
>
> Subject: [SabreSailboat] Cabin Lights
>
>
>
> My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main
Cabin
> on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned them..Any
> tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton, Xenon, LED?
>
> Thx
>
> Mike
>
> Divided Sky
>
> 1990 S36/100
>

#4263

From: David Lochner <davelochner@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 12:08 pm
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Window/port removal

Greg,

All my portlights are 1/8" safety glass. The clear lighting is much preferred over crazed and hazy plastic.

I used the GE Silpruf to rebed the frames. Silpruf is interesting stuff. It has a much thicker consistency than the usual silicones that I've used and is definitely neater and easier to use than LifeCaulk. I'll have to go sailing to see if they leak.

Dave

On Jul 2, 2006, at 5:13 AM, Greg Allen wrote:

Dave,

I just replaced the 3/16 Lexan portlight over the Nav station with 1/4 safety glass and the local boatyard portlight guru suggested GE Silicon II to rebed the glass and life caulk to rebed the frame.� �

It's amazing how much clear, clean glass adds to a boat.

Greg
On Jul 1, 2006, at 6:52 AM, David Lochner wrote:

John,

Thanks for the tip. That was basically my plan. Of course, now you have me thinking that using 4200 might be a better plan......

On my ports, the outside bead of the vinyl channel glazing was cut off and a bead of silicone caulk was used instead. The silicone should give a better seal as it will adhere to both the frame and the glass.

I'm not sure how structurally important the foam is. It mostly appears to be filler between the cabin liner and the out side of the cabin.

Dave

On Jul 1, 2006, at 6:01 AM, john kalinowski wrote:

Dave
�
�The trick on reinstallation is to dry fit the window, then put down an outline in 3M 3" blue masking tape. If need be, put it below the frame, and then cut around the corners with a utility knife.
�
Remove the frame, wipe area with acetone, bed it (I used 4200) and install. You should get a bit of oozing all around.� After an hour or when the 4200 has skinned, you can remove the tape and have a clean install.
�
I found the only leak I got was the channel glazing and not the frame to the cabin.
�
Barry, not sure of the 28, but on my 32, it is foam between the inner and out skins. They have a tendency to crack and fall away.� If that is your problem, cut a piece of stiff styrofoam to put in there.'
�
john

David Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
Barry,

Since I'm in the middle of a similar project on my S30. Let me try to answer your questions.

On the Sabre Yachts website, there is a drawing of how the window is bedded and instructions for rebedding the port. This would be a good place to start.

Removal is relatively straightforward. Remove the inside trim piece, break the seal around the port on the outside and use a wide putty knife and other devices to push the window and frame out. I used 2 putty knives one on the outside with a helper and one inside with a rubber mallet. I put the putty knife in the gap between the side of the cabin and the window frame and gently tapped the putty knife. I continued around the frame until the window popped out. Taking the window apart is straightforward.

The most challenging part is removing all the old caulk. Sabre used GE Silpruf which is an adhesive silicone caulk that is used to hold plate glass windows in their frames. It is tenacious stuff. You'll have to order it from somewhere, I ordered mine through the local Fastenal store.�

After trial and error, I developed this system.

First make a tool. I found a scrap piece of oak corner molding that I trimmed down to fit the channel. Then, with the frame clamped in a vise, gently heat the caulk with a heat gun, the caulk will soften and you can either trim most of it off with a razor knife or use your homemade caulk removing tool to get most of the caulk off. Then cover the remaining caulk with a liberal dose of Dap Caulk Remover (about $3.50 at Lowe's), ignore the warning to not leave it on for more than 6 hours. Let it sit over night in a cool place (my basement worked well) so it doesn't dry out too much. Then use your homemade caulk removing tool to scrape, rub, and peel off the old caulk. You will probably need to do this a couple of time to get the worst of it off. Not a difficult job, but it can be tedious and good opportunity to practice patience.

To reassemble, you'll want to replace the vinyl glazing strip. There is only one source that I could find and they won't sell directly to you. You'll need to get a glass shop to order you a roll. The product is:��http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/D/D753M_11746.html?Origin=#MoreDetails Again, its pretty easy to reassemble the window.

When I talked to the guy at the auto glass shop, he suggested that the butyl tape that the sabre drawing shows is unnecessary. The silpruf should be enough to get a good seal.

I'll know by this time tomorrow how easy they are to reinstall.

According to my S30 manual, the S30 and S28s have mahogany plywood under the stanchion bases.

Good Luck.

Dave
Identi! ty Crisis
S30 #52
Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jun 30, 2006, at 10:00 PM, Barry Wilson wrote:

I discovered a soft spot in the core�below the window/port over the galley of my S28.� I think I know the challenges of repairing the core.� However, how easy is it to remove and replace the window?� What challenges will have I have getting the window back in and sealed properly?� Once removed, must I proceed to the final repair, or can the window be replaced as part of an exploratory adventure?
�
Assuming I can dig out the rotten core, didn't I read of a chemical of some sort that can be used to bolster core that isn't rotten but may have been damp at one point.�
�
And one final question.� In anticipation of some rebedding tasks, does anyone know if all the stanchions are through solid glass on the S28, or are some through wood cored deck?
�
Thanks,
�
�
Barry Wilson
S28 II 400
Slipstream
�

Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2�/min or less.

Greg Allen
gregallen1@...
781-639-4688

#4264

From: "Eric" <sabre30_36@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 1:57 pm
Subject: Re: Cabin Lights

sabre30_36

Mike:

Are you referring to the shades being yellowed?  I found a set of
nearly identical shades - I think at Fawcett's - they're nice and
white - makes a big difference.  And cheap!

I spotted your boat as I was walking out to Panache (Ranger 37) for
the races on Saturday - I'll come by and introduce myself first chance
I get.

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@...> wrote:
>
> My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main
> Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned
> them....Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton,
> Xenon, LED?
>
>
>
> Thx
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Divided Sky
>
> 1990 S36/100
>

#4265

From: "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 2:25 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights

philliechees...

Eric

Thanks very much – yes I am in slip 75 … here today working at my PC…WiFi is great!

Mike

From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 9:57 AM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights

Mike:

Are you referring to the shades being yellowed? I found a set of
nearly identical shades - I think at Fawcett's - they're nice and
white - makes a big difference. And cheap!

I spotted your boat as I was walking out to Panache (Ranger 37) for
the races on Saturday - I'll come by and introduce myself first chance
I get.

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@...> wrote:
>
> My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main
> Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned
> them....Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton,
> Xenon, LED?
>
>
>
> Thx
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Divided Sky
>
> 1990 S36/100
>

#4266

From: "Peter Tollini" <pete@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 3:05 pm
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights

petertr3

Mike –

I think your lights may be different than Eric’s. You probably have the Bass white cylindrical plastic shades, with a rotary on/off knob on top that were original on Solace. Nobody has shades for them. Neither Bass nor Glen had a clue where to find them.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Finley, Mike
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:25 AM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights

Eric

Thanks very much – yes I am in slip 75 … here today working at my PC…WiFi is great!

Mike

#4267

From: "Peter Tollini" <pete@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 3:13 pm
Subject: Electrical Panel labels

petertr3

I found a source for clear laser labels that can replace the ones on the silver Bass Nova electrical panels in a lot of mid-to-late 80s Sabres. I also found the font and spacing in Word to print exact duplicates on a laser printer. I had to buy a box of 25 sheets, @ 100 labels/sheet, so let me know offline if you want any replacement labels.

Pete

Reply | Messages in this Topic (1)

#4268

From: "Eric" <sabre30_36@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: Cabin Lights

sabre30_36

I think my lights are Perko and the shade clips onto the bulb.

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Tollini" <pete@...> wrote:
>
> Mike -
>
> I think your lights may be different than Eric's.  You probably have the
> Bass white cylindrical plastic shades, with a rotary on/off knob on
top that
> were original on Solace.  Nobody has shades for them. Neither Bass
nor Glen
> had a clue where to find them.
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Finley, Mike
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:25 AM
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> Thanks very much - yes I am in slip 75 . here today working at my
PC.WiFi is
> great!
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Eric
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 9:57 AM
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights
>
>
>
> Mike:
>
> Are you referring to the shades being yellowed? I found a set of
> nearly identical shades - I think at Fawcett's - they're nice and
> white - makes a big difference. And cheap!
>
> I spotted your boat as I was walking out to Panache (Ranger 37) for
> the races on Saturday - I'll come by and introduce myself first chance
> I get.
>
> Eric
> Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
> West River, MD
>
> --- In Sabresailboat@ <mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@> wrote:
> >
> > My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main
> > Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned
> > them....Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton,
> > Xenon, LED?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thx
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Divided Sky
> >
> > 1990 S36/100
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>

#4269

From: "Eric" <sabre30_36@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 4:08 pm
Subject: Re: Cabin Lights

sabre30_36

You can see one (with the old shade) in this photo:

http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intport.jpg

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Tollini" <pete@...> wrote:
>
> Mike -
>
> I think your lights may be different than Eric's.  You probably have the
> Bass white cylindrical plastic shades, with a rotary on/off knob on
top that
> were original on Solace.  Nobody has shades for them. Neither Bass
nor Glen
> had a clue where to find them.
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Finley, Mike
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:25 AM
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> Thanks very much - yes I am in slip 75 . here today working at my
PC.WiFi is
> great!
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Eric
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 9:57 AM
> To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: Cabin Lights
>
>
>
> Mike:
>
> Are you referring to the shades being yellowed? I found a set of
> nearly identical shades - I think at Fawcett's - they're nice and
> white - makes a big difference. And cheap!
>
> I spotted your boat as I was walking out to Panache (Ranger 37) for
> the races on Saturday - I'll come by and introduce myself first chance
> I get.
>
> Eric
> Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
> West River, MD
>
> --- In Sabresailboat@ <mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@> wrote:
> >
> > My cabin lights (Reading Lights) on the forward bulkhead of the main
> > Cabin on my S36 are yellowed plastic and my First Mate had condemned
> > them....Any tribal wisdom on good replacement fixtures?....Krypton,
> > Xenon, LED?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thx
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Divided Sky
> >
> > 1990 S36/100
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>

#4270

From: David Lochner <davelochner@...>
Date: Mon Jul 3, 2006 11:17 pm
Subject: Settee Length

Eric,

I'm curious, how long are the settes in your cabin? On Identity Crisis (#52) there are cutouts in the bulkhead that go under the sink in the head portside and under the hanging locker starboard side. The photo you posted doesn't appear to have the cutout. The back cushions also appear to be shorter in height, or it may just be an illusion because of the fabric.

Dave

Identity Crisis

S30 #52

Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jul 3, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Eric wrote:

You can see one (with the old shade) in this photo:

http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intport.jpg

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

#4271

From: "Eric" <sabre30_36@...>
Date: Tue Jul 4, 2006 12:59 am
Subject: Re: Settee Length

sabre30_36

Dave:

The back cushions are 11" high.  I just happen to have them in the
basement because I am working on recovering them.

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, David Lochner <davelochner@...>
wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> I'm curious, how long are the settes in your cabin? On Identity
> Crisis (#52) there are cutouts in the bulkhead that go under the sink
> in the head portside and under the hanging locker starboard side. The
> photo you posted doesn't appear to have the cutout. The back cushions
> also appear to be shorter in height, or it may just be an illusion
> because of the fabric.
>
>
> Dave
> Identity Crisis
> S30 #52
> Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario
>
> On Jul 3, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Eric wrote:
>
> > You can see one (with the old shade) in this photo:
> >
> > http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intport.jpg
> >
> > Eric
> > Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
> > West River, MD
> >
>

#4272

From: "Eric" <sabre30_36@...>
Date: Tue Jul 4, 2006 12:52 am
Subject: Re: Settee Length

sabre30_36

Dave:

There is a cutout such as you describe on the starboard side, but not
on the port side.  You can see the starboard side settee in this
photo: http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intstbd.jpg

I know the port side settee is roughly 6'2" because I sleep there
frequently.

Does your port side settee pull out into a "double"?  That's how mine
works and that would seem to make the cutout of little use (unless it
was a really wide cutout).

I think the back cushions were changed as the boats evolved.

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, David Lochner <davelochner@...>
wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> I'm curious, how long are the settes in your cabin? On Identity
> Crisis (#52) there are cutouts in the bulkhead that go under the sink
> in the head portside and under the hanging locker starboard side. The
> photo you posted doesn't appear to have the cutout. The back cushions
> also appear to be shorter in height, or it may just be an illusion
> because of the fabric.
>
>
> Dave
> Identity Crisis
> S30 #52
> Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario
>
> On Jul 3, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Eric wrote:
>
> > You can see one (with the old shade) in this photo:
> >
> > http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intport.jpg
> >
> > Eric
> > Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
> > West River, MD
> >
>

#4273

From: "Bruce Heyman" <bruceheyman@...>
Date: Tue Jul 4, 2006 12:55 am
Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Settee Length

somersetdian...

Dave,

On S30 #46 the Starboard bulkhead does have a cut out for your feet (or your head if you are an introvert) but the port side does not.

Bruce

From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Lochner
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 4:18 PM
To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SabreSailboat] Settee Length

Eric,

Dave

Identity Crisis

S30 #52

Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jul 3, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Eric wrote:

You can see one (with the old shade) in this photo:

http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intport.jpg

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

#4274

From: David Lochner <davelochner@...>
Date: Tue Jul 4, 2006 1:21 am
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Settee Length

Eric,

From looking at your website, you have the "fold-up" navigator's station. I have a fixed navigator's station. Thus, the port settee is shorter and making the cutout necessary. I don't have the� pull-out double, so the settee may be a bit lower making my cushions a bit taller. I often sleep on the settee, but they are narrow.�

Dave

Identity Crisis

S30 #52

Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario

On Jul 3, 2006, at 8:52 PM, Eric wrote:

Dave:

There is a cutout such as you describe on the starboard side, but not
on the port side. You can see the starboard side settee in this
photo: http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intstbd.jpg

I know the port side settee is roughly 6'2" because I sleep there
frequently.

Does your port side settee pull out into a "double"? That's how mine
works and that would seem to make the cutout of little use (unless it
was a really wide cutout).

I think the back cushions were changed as the boats evolved.

Eric
Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
West River, MD

--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, David Lochner <davelochner@...>
wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> I'm curious, how long are the settes in your cabin? On Identity
> Crisis (#52) there are cutouts in the bulkhead that go under the sink
> in the head portside and under the hanging locker starboard side. The
> photo you posted doesn't appear to have the cutout. The back cushions
> also appear to be shorter in height, or it may just be an illusion
> because of the fabric.
>
>
> Dave
> Identity Crisis
> S30 #52
> Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario
>
> On Jul 3, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Eric wrote:
>
> > You can see one (with the old shade) in this photo:
> >
> > http://spirit.the-millers.org/Intport.jpg
> >
> > Eric
> > Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
> > West River, MD
> >
>