....that it is time to announce the opening of voting in the Italian
Showcase Rose Awards for 2006. :-)

This year I have decided on voting forms in both plain text and Word
versions, which you can download, fill in, and return to me at
bella_lucia_da_verona@...   Voting will close 10pm AEDT,
January 31 2007.

The beginning of each month is also time for a new Portrait of the
Month - this time it is a portrait dated to the second half of the
sixteenth century, and attributed to Sofonisba Anguissola.

Both the documents and the Voting Page, as well as the link to the
new POTM,  can be downloaded and/or viewed via the links on the
website's index page:

http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net


Happy New Year!

Bella


PS...The January 1st Italian Showcase has been delayed, my apologies.
Hopefully I'll have it webbed either tomorrow or the next day.

For heaven's sake, grab that thing before she changes her mind!  You will
never regret it, I promise you.

I learned to sew on a treadle, and still recall fondly how relaxing it was
and what good, plain stitching it performed.

It is a bit different from an electric machine.....it's more rhythmic, more
relaxing, and you just seem to "bond" w/ the process much more.

You should have a good computerized machine for all your fancy stitches,
too, but please don't miss out on this experience.

Recently this list proved that one may locate the user manual for many
treadle machines online, so don't let that be a stumbling block.

:-)

Adhaniá of Ols

----- Original Message -----
snip

My grandmother has a treadle and I
> have been offered it several times. I have been turning it down for years.
> Also is it very different sewing with a treade than sewing with a modern
> machine?snip

Thank you all so much! You saved me from a very tedious night :)

-Molly


-- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Molly" <mmcgraw@...> wrote:
>
> I would usually do these by hand, but I'm pressed for time, can't find
> my instruction manual, and this is the best forum I have to ask about
> this. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm sure there's some
> special setting I've forgotten about. I have a Brother CS 8060. If
> someone out there with a similar machine can sort of walk me through
> the process, that'd be great. Otherwise, I'm going to be up all night
> doing these by hand :-]
>
> -Molly
>

I'll see what I can do.  I STILL need the sleeves from those who
embroidered them, I hope that is today.

I figure if I ONLY get my friends vigil dress done and that's it.
THAT is the most important thing.

SO!! update for today.  The lining is sewed onto the skirt and bodice.
  I figured out rolled pleats!!!!  WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!  I guess you
DO learn something new every day.

Ashe'el
*thanks for the kick  :)

Well I think I landed in the perverbial jam pot here! Reading the
post and this is GREAT!
Im still working on my persona. We jsut found SCa last month so I
have not had a lot of time to get any thign really solidly picked out
yet.
My "thing" is spinning & hopefully eventualy weaving  ( looking up
spin groups is how I found sca. )  so thats part of it but who knows
where it will go from there.
I could use some ideas though.  The parts of my persona I have
setteled on is dispersed Israel but what period and country?  Im
thinking a muslim country  since they keep kosher or welsh/irish/scot
but what era and what class?  findging suitable trim is another
issue.
Main point iM thinking is waht period is easiest to make for beginer
as far as extravagance?  The trade off I see is earlier = easier
patterns(?) vs later = more choices in patterns. does that make sense
to any one but me?
I used to know how to sew but its been so long Im not even sure where
my machine is.  also i have two heavy fighters to sew for. the online
tunics  and pants are great for starter patterns for that but i could
stil use idead for somethign a bit fancier for them for feast.  they
arent picky about what they wear so far. i figure give them a couple
of choicces and let them go from there.  the ISSUe im trying to avoid
is paterns i buy that have to be redone . m not pattern maker by any
means. any tips would be great.
Thanks
Rokedemyah

You are welcome. I know it is helping me, although I should get off this
computer to do more work.

I got the linen shirt cut out, the front placard made (modern pattern for
the client) and the collar with ruffle almost done. It was done, but I
don't like the ruffle on it, so I am going to remake part of it.

And I almost got rolled pleats. I did one set for my linen kirtle where it
hangs straight down. But I am a little stumped on how to sew thick wool
rolled pleats onto a finished bodice bottom so it flares out in back,
instead of hanging straight down. Any suggestions?

Joane
Off the computer now to finish the shirt.


At 10:42 AM 1/1/2007, you wrote:
>I'll see what I can do.  I STILL need the sleeves from those who
>embroidered them, I hope that is today.
>
>I figure if I ONLY get my friends vigil dress done and that's it.
>THAT is the most important thing.
>
>SO!! update for today.  The lining is sewed onto the skirt and bodice.
>  I figured out rolled pleats!!!!  WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!  I guess you
>DO learn something new every day.
>
>Ashe'el
>*thanks for the kick  :)

Here at SCA Garb we have nearly 3,000 members and a super high volume of mail
(sometimes as high as 200 e-mails a day). Please read the article below.
Snipping posts is MANDATORY. All new members are moderated and the moderators
will not approve one word replies, or one sentence replies that have the entire
orginal email attached still. In the case of SCA-Garb pare it down to the bare
essentials then make your reply to the list. The faster you being to do this the
sooner you will get off moderation and the faster your replies will get the
list. We don't warn you that your reply has been deleted. We just do it. There
are too many people here to try. That's why we hope this e-mail helps. If you
need help beyond this e-mail just ask.

YIS,
Bice

You are about to compose a reply to an email message or to an article on
SCA-Garb. Most email and newsreader software will automatically include the
entire text of the message/article to which you are replying. This makes it easy
for you to remember the specific comments you want to respond to. When you
compose your reply, you would like to:

Use the minimum amount of effort possible. Leaving the entire text of the
previous message unmodified (usually at the end of the message) saves you the
time of having to delete all or part of it from your editor buffer/window.

Make the most favorable impression upon the greatest number of people. You don't
want people to think you are foolish or ignorant. Using intelligent writing is
the most helpful thing here, but you also need to make sure your tone and
behavior and even your message topic and content are appropriate for your
intended audience.

Preserve some amount of the context in which your remarks are being made.
Chances are many won't have the original message handy to remember a specific
point or statement you are responding to.

Be considerate of the time and computing resources to your users.

Common pitfalls are:

Laziness or ignorance:
One simply includes the entire message text unmodified. This is the easiest to
do, but it is a breach of standard netiquette: Not all readers will be aware
that you didn't add any extra text to the quoted message and will waste time
looking for further comments from you.

Some email programs make it clear the author's text has ended and that the text
of the included message has begun. This is usually a good sign to look no
further for new message content, but it is still a breach of netiquette: even
though the user may no longer be wasting time to look for further comments, all
that extraneous/unnecessary text takes up computing resources (network bandwidth
and disk space) for every single subscriber to the newsgroup or mailing list.

All those extra bytes cost money to disseminate across the planet and the owner
of the computing and network resources is usually the one who ends up paying for
it. It also takes up unneeded space in the users incoming mail folder (inbox,
mailbox, mailbin) and makes it that much more likely for the folder to reach its
capacity limit. This may not sound like much for a single message, but when
everybody does it, each message gets longer and longer and mailboxes will fill
up very quickly.

In addition many people who have been long-abiders of standard netiquette can
become quite incensed at such a blatant breach of such a basic and long standing
netiquette rule. They will have a bad impression of the poster (thinking them to
be ignorant or rude) and often respond with polite (and not so polite)
admonishments to the author. They may also give your words less weight if they
think you are not knowledgeable/courteous enough to follow such netiquette. In
their opinion, if the sender doesn't have the decency to take a few extra
seconds of their own time to be mindful of the time and resources of the many
hundreds or thousands of other participants on the forum, then they shouldn't
bother wasting any of their time to read it.

Missing context:
Some will simply remove the quoted text entirely from the message, or else
set-up their mail/news software not to include the text in the first place.
Sometimes this is acceptable, but more often than not, it exhibits two problems:
(1) it becomes more difficult or takes more effort to respond to specific points
in the email; (2) email messages don't always arrive at their intended
destination in the order they were originally sent. Someone may see a reply
before the see the original message that prompted it. Without at least some
context information regarding the previous message, they may not be able to make
any sense of the message.

Therefore:

TrimYourPosts appropriately. Do not simply quote/cite the entire text of the
previous message when you reply. Rather, include only enough information so that
the intended audience may easily discern the author and time of the original
message, and the specific comments to which you are directly responding. Remove
as much of the original message as is feasible without erasing the minimal
information necessary to understand what point you are addressing or responding
to.

You should TrimYourPosts anytime you are replying to an email message or to an
article on Usenet News. This should be done for internal email forums as well as
for public email forums (such as a mailing list) but is even more important to
do for group email messages (e.g. to a mailing list) because it affects more
people.

On email forums and mailinglists, it's bad form to include excessive history in
your reply, as it's assumed that the recipients received the messages you're
replying to, and can read them if they really want to know the history. This is
particularly true when people receive summaries, or are using a threaded news
reader.

In a corporate environment, however, using non-news group "regular" email, there
can be significant advantages to including a complete history with every
message:
People may lose or delete messages. Or old messages may be hard to find.
The recipient lists on email messages can change. (They tend to expand. ;-)

Some of us often receive messages with a dozen or more replies, with full text
-- where we were NOT on the recipient list of any of the preceding messages. In
these cases, including the complete history is helpful, possibly even vital, to
figuring out what the heck they're talking about.

Having said that, it is often a good idea to trim history on normal email
replies. There's a point beyond which a complete history of the discussion can
be excessive, unnecessary, and even misleading.

How to do it:

To trim history, it is common to first remove any irrelevant leading quoted text
of the message to which you are replying, then to intersperse or interleave the
specific comments in your reply among the specific sections of the previous
message that they directly address, and then trim any irrelevant trailing text
below your final comments. But don't simply interleave your comments throughout
the entire message without trying to remove as much of the
extraneous/inessential text as you can. All other portions of the included
message text should be trimmed away (deleted) from the message to be sent.

Keep in mind shorter is better and less is more. Interleaving your comments
every 1-2 lines makes for very choppy reading with lots of
distractions/interruptions in the flow of thought being expressed. Cite a small
but relevant section that expresses a complete thought, and then state your own
complete thoughts on the matter in a paragraph or more. And try to keep the
overall ratio of new text to cited text as low as possible, and "chunk" the
citations and responses into coherent wholes rather than choppy rebuttals.

Suppose the text of the original message is:

   Dearest Gomez, how kind it was of you to come over so quickly and
   help Lurch and Thing remove Cousin It from the garbage disposal (which
   happened when Wednesday mistook It for a hairball from the cat and
   decided to see how well "Liquid Plum'r" really works on the drain). It
   was very grateful for your assistance and wanted me to make particular
   mention of it to you.

   I also wanted to know when you will be coming home for dinner tomorrow
   night. I plan on making one of your favorites: Hypothalamus Tetrazini
   soaked in a light phlegm marinade and just a delicate touch of
   formaldehyde, served with fresh corn (from Lurch's feet). I want to
   ensure that the corn doesn't become soggy and that the marinade has
   the proper consistency before you partake of this Epicurean delight.

   Also, can you please bring the following items home from the grocery
   store today on your way home from the studio:

     - Dr. Scholl's Corn & Callous Remover
     - Mazola Corn Oil
     - Robitussin DE (or any other suitable nasal decongestant)
     - Fresh tripe from the Deli
     - "Head" cheese
     - Three-way light bulbs (for Uncle Fester)
     - Six Rubbermaid petri dishes
     - Industrial strength motor oil
     - Peanut butter
     - Prince' pasta (the vermiceli variety - extra thin)
     - Preparation H hemorrhoidal ointment and suppositories
        [ unfortunately, Wednesday positioned It in the garbage disposal
          in a fashion that was quite different than "head first" :-(   ]

   I fondly await your reply,
   Morticia <morti@...>


An appropriate response which trimmed the above text appropriately might be:

   On Fri Oct 31 1997, Morticia Addams <morti@...> writes:
   > Dearest Gomez, how kind it was of you to come over so quickly and
   > help Lurch remove Cousin It from the garbage disposal

   It was my distinct pleasure to offer my assistance. Tell "It" that a
   good cockroach bath should help remove all the extra debris that was
   entrenched in the fur from the disposal.

   > I also wanted to know when you will be coming home for dinner
   > I plan on making one of your favorites

   I should be home by midnight. Unfortunately - they'll be keeping us
   late tomorrow nite. They want me to do a retake on the scene I perform
   with Julie Newmar, where Catwoman and the Riddler conspire to give the
   dynamic duo a big, bad bat-wedgie -- stripping them down to nothing
   but their utility belts ("Holy Fruit of the Loom Batman!").

   But after Adam and Burt "Flash" us their "Superman"-waistbands, I
   will do my level best to get my bat-riddled behind home in time to
   enjoy masticating those glandular midnight morsels you plan to
   prepare. My oral orifice is salivating at the mere mention of your
   momentous meal. You know I have such high expectorations for your
   cooking!

   > please bring the following items home from the grocery store

   Gladly my dear. It would be my fondest desire to please your
   culinary needs!

   Loquaciously and Lustfully yours,
   Gomez Addams <riddler@...>


Note how Gomez was so courteous as to include only minimum essential contextual
information and removed details to which he did not respond directly (such as
the origin of It's predicament, the content of the meal, and the items on the
shopping list).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Your readers will thank you! They may not say so explicitly all the time but
they will appreciate you making the extra effort to show them basic Internet
courtesy and consideration for their time and resources. The audience of your
message will be less likely to draw any sudden/rash conclusions regarding your
Internet communications "savvy" (or lack thereof). Disks will have more space
available for other messages and files. Your message will be another reinforcing
example to would-be-posters of the desired norm for correspondence on the forum.
Fewer people will insert you into their "kill" files and "ignore" filters and
your words will have a wider audience.

Related patterns are:

MeaningfulSubjectLine
LurkBeforeYouLeap
LessThanEightyColumns
SixLineSigLimit

TrimYourPosts has long been a bastion of Usenet news correspondence for well
over a decade. See:

Rules for Posting to Usenet (http://www.dejanews.com/help/dnusenet_5.html)

Emily Postnews Answers Your Questions on Netiquette
(http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=Cv8JK7.2xI%40deshaw.com) note - the
content of this one is intended to be sarcasm

It is also a well established guideline for mailing lists:

Internet Request For Comments (RFC) at
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/information/rfc.html

Netiquette Guide (http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/cgi-bin/rfc/rfc1855.html)

It is also recommended in:

Using Email Effectively; by Linda Lamb & Jerry Peek; O'Reilly & Associates,
April 1995 (discontinued)

Internet in a Nutshell; by Valerie Quercia; O'Reilly & Associates, October 1997;
ISBN 1-56592-323-5

The Whole Internet User's Guide & Catalog, 2nd Edition; by Ed Krol; O'Reilly &
Associates, April 1994; ISBN 1-56592-063-5


As seen on:
http://c2.com/cgi/wiki?TrimYourPosts

--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "rokedemyah" <rokedemyah@...> wrote:
>
> Well I think I landed in the perverbial jam pot here! Reading the
> post and this is GREAT!

Welcome to the SCA!

> Im still working on my persona. We jsut found SCa last month so I
> have not had a lot of time to get any thign really solidly picked
out
> yet.

No need to hurry.  People who pick out a persona in a week usually
end up changing their minds a year later.

> I could use some ideas though.  The parts of my persona I have
> setteled on is dispersed Israel but what period and country?  Im
> thinking a muslim country  since they keep kosher or
welsh/irish/scot
> but what era and what class?

Welsh might work.  I'm not an expert on Jewish personas, but I'd be
surprised if you would be able to find much information on that in
conjunction with Ireland and Scotland since Irish and Scots personas
are relatively hard to research (the English tried to wipe out their
cultures as much as possible)  You can probably find info on Jewish
personas in North Africa, Spain and the Middle East a bit easier,
but also in Germany, Italy and persia depending on the time period.

findging suitable trim is another
> issue.
> Main point iM thinking is waht period is easiest to make for
beginer
> as far as extravagance?  The trade off I see is earlier = easier
> patterns(?) vs later = more choices in patterns. does that make
sense
> to any one but me?

That comparison makes a lot of sense.  There is another trade-off
also...  Early period is simpler and easier to make, but the gaps in
the info are bigger and a there are a lot of things we have to guess
at.  Later period garb is definitely more complex, but we have more
examples and while there are still gaps in the info, they are mostly
smaller gaps.

There is a nice middle ground (Europe, 1350 - 1500) where you can
sometimes find a nice compromise with garb that is not too complex,
but we have lots of illuminations and stuff to base our research
on.

This does not hold true for every place and time...  for instance,
in Persia we have lots of pictures from 1450 to 1600, and in Egypt
its more like just the 1400's, rest of North Africa is fairly
spotty.  It just varies, sometimes depending on when the books were
burned and sometimes just that nobody who speaks English was ever
interested enough to publish anything on it.



   the ISSUe im trying to avoid
> is paterns i buy that have to be redone . m not pattern maker by
any
> means. any tips would be great.

I don't collect URL's but there are some great sites out there for
beginner garb, and not all of it is just tunics.  I'm sure people
will have good suggestions.

Rashid

Im not sure yet of my total goals for 2007, but sometime before March
and Gulf Wars, I have to sew a weeks worth of garb for my husband and
I, at least one nice court outfit for us each, and a wedding dress for
me, and wedding garb for him.

For the wedding I am making us each a cotehardie, wool lined in linen,
compleatly hand sewn. So I have a feeling everything else I make will
be cheap cotton t-tunics.

Ghita

I do actually *have* a plan this year. I'm taking this set of patterns:
http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp46.htm and making one of each. The first
one is almost done, but I'm stuck on what fabric I want to make the
second out of. Decisions, decisions!

Lady Vilda Leusch
of Wyewood and Clan Carn


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The only way i could think is to treat them as if they were cartridge
pleats.  Make them, sew them together (base stitch them??) and then
stitch it to the bodice.

Ashe'el
*throwing her two pence in*

--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, Kimiko Small <kimiko@...> wrote:
  But I am a little stumped on how to sew thick wool
> rolled pleats onto a finished bodice bottom so it flares out in back,
> instead of hanging straight down. Any suggestions?
>
> Joane
> Off the computer now to finish the shirt.
>

>
> --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, Kimiko Small <kimiko@...> wrote:
> But I am a little stumped on how to sew thick wool
> > rolled pleats onto a finished bodice bottom so it flares out in back,
> > instead of hanging straight down. Any suggestions?
> >
> > Joane
> > Off the computer now to finish the shirt.
> >
>
> I've gotten cartridge pleats to stand out from something by stitching the
top of the pleat perpendicular to the base, rather than to the base edge.
I'm not sure if this conveys what I mean, if it doesn't let me know and I'll
try harder to describe it.

alex


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I  am making my first attempt at Italian.  I know that is broad burt I
am making an earlyish 15th C gown with bodice attached to skirt.  Would
like to have it for Estrella.  I am using some relative cheap but
pretty red corduroyfabric.  What would be the best pleating technique
to use with the corduroy?  It is a very think whale so the fabric is
not too thick at all.  Thank you for the input.

BTW, I read all the emails on sewing machine recommendations and am
thinking that I do need to get out to the stores and look at stuff.  I
truly appreciate all your good wisdom and advice.

I guess th4e Vikings are not as good as they once were?  I probably
mentioned this before but I have an old one and it seems that the
internal gears are some kind of plastic and my sewing machine guy said
that it was not worth the cost of repairing/replacing all fo them.  I
am sad about that.

Betsabea da Venizia

For most attaching skirts to boddices I use cartridge pleating.
It makes the skirt poof just a bit and also gives a clean edge for
the attaching. I generally straight stitch the boddice and skirt after
Pleating.
If you are not fimilar with cartridge pleating here is a good page that'll
help

http://lynnmcmasters.com/cartridge.html

YIS
Aimara

On 1/2/07, Betsabea <sbazizi@...> wrote:
>
>   I am making my first attempt at Italian. I know that is broad burt I
> am making an earlyish 15th C gown with bodice attached to skirt. Would
> like to have it for Estrella. I am using some relative cheap but
> pretty red corduroyfabric. What would be the best pleating technique
> to use with the corduroy? It is a very think whale so the fabric is
> not too thick at all. Thank you for the input.
>
> BTW, I read all the emails on sewing machine recommendations and am
> thinking that I do need to get out to the stores and look at stuff. I
> truly appreciate all your good wisdom and advice.
>
> I guess th4e Vikings are not as good as they once were? I probably
> mentioned this before but I have an old one and it seems that the
> internal gears are some kind of plastic and my sewing machine guy said
> that it was not worth the cost of repairing/replacing all fo them. I
> am sad about that.
>
> Betsabea da Venizia
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
> For heaven's sake, grab that thing before she changes her mind!  You will
> never regret it, I promise you.
>snip<
> Adhaniá of Ols

One other thing to think about.  Most of us need to do deep knee bends and
roll ups to tighten flabby thighs and tummy muscles.  Treadle machines let
you do actually Useful sewing while getting that exercise!  My mother's
doctor surprised her by saying that "little" women like her always had
trouble birthing children (this was 1940!).  Both my brothers and myself
were born like little watermelon seeds (popped right out).  The doctor told
her it was because she was still making all the family clothing with her
Singer treadle machine which exercised all those muscles.  By 1939-1940 most
women were proudly sewing on their new-fangled electrified sewing machines!
Rather like me actually.

Sadly, owning a treadle just isn't enough for those exercises.  I would
actually have to use that Singer or the Kaiser I brought home from Germany
instead of the Pfaff Hobbymatic :-)

Regina
>

Oh, Wanda, I love your reply!!

If I could find a lovely working treadle machine, I would buy it up
in a snap.

My favorite typewriter is my good old manual.  I think it keeps my
fingers strong and limber.  I also love that it is somewhat of an
effort to use, seems to spiritually move me into a different place
when writing.

Okay, so anyone have a beautiful, well-running complete treadle
machine for sale?  :)

Rosie.


--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Wanda Pease" <wandap@...> wrote:

>
> One other thing to think about.  Most of us need to do deep knee
bends and
> roll ups to tighten flabby thighs and tummy muscles.  Treadle
machines let
> you do actually Useful sewing while getting that exercise!  My
mother's
> doctor surprised her by saying that "little" women like her always
had
> trouble birthing children (this was 1940!).  Both my brothers and
myself
> were born like little watermelon seeds (popped right out).  The
doctor told
> her it was because she was still making all the family clothing
with her
> Singer treadle machine which exercised all those muscles.  By 1939-
1940 most
> women were proudly sewing on their new-fangled electrified sewing
machines!
> Rather like me actually.
>
> Sadly, owning a treadle just isn't enough for those exercises.  I
would
> actually have to use that Singer or the Kaiser I brought home from
Germany
> instead of the Pfaff Hobbymatic :-)
>
> Regina
> >
>

Hi all,

well the first Showcase of the new year experienced a bit of a
hiccup, but onwards and ever upwards!

This first installment owes much to the resourcefulness of the
costumer, who was dragged in kicking and screaming as a replacement
when the costumer who was booked dropped out. :-) In addition,
Dianora hadn't actually finished her booked gown, but like the true
lady she is she offered me as a replacement a number of other
beautiful Italian creations. What else could I do but say Thank You!
and snap up the offer!

Dianora's creation is based on Titian's "La Bella", and it is as
lovely as the lady herself. Without further ado....

http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Enjoy!

Bella
The Realm of Venus

--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Betsabea" <sbazizi@...> wrote:
>
> I  am making my first attempt at Italian.
<<<snipped>>>>...earlyish 15th C gown with bodice attached to skirt.
<<<snipped>>>  What would be the best pleating technique
> to use with the corduroy?  It is a very think whale so the fabric
is
> not too thick at all.  Thank you for the input.

Sometimes there's some confusion about which century gets which
ordinary designation.  If you mean from 1501 through 1600, that's the
Sixteenth Century; if you're talking about a gown in the early
Fifteenth Century, that would be in the 1400's (1401 through 1500.)
I want to say those gowns were probably knife-pleated onto the short
bodices, in the 1400's.
If you are wanting a gown from the early 1500's, and if what you're
making is, as you've said, rather broad, or a "generic Italian
Renaissance gown," then I'd suggest you select your pleating method
either according to what was commonly done at that time; or,
according to what you feel you can handle and get the best results.


>
> BTW, I read all the emails on sewing machine recommendations and am
> thinking that I do need to get out to the stores and look at
stuff.  <<<snipped>>>
>
   I probably
> mentioned this before but I have an old one and it seems that the
> internal gears are some kind of plastic and my sewing machine guy
said
> that it was not worth the cost of repairing/replacing all fo them.
>

Eh.  I just had a similar conversation with a mechanic about my car.
In the car's case, he didn't say directly that it isn't worth while
to try to keep mine running, but he *did* volunteer his oh-so-NOT-
humble opinion and rule of thumb, and according to his rule of thumb
it wouldn't be worth my while to continue to drive the car I have.
(According to my point of view, which I'm taking from the perspective
of my bankbook, it is worthwhile: I'll be putting less money into
keeping it road-worthy than I would into purchasing and operating a
newer vehicle.)  For the record, he's a good and honest mechanic and
I do trust him; I even like him.  He's just superlatively confident
that his way of thinking is the right way, and he's generous enough
in his thinking to allow that the rest of us have the right to
disagree with him; in other words, to be wrong, LOL.
I mention this matter of my auto mechanic and his opinions to say,
*you* are the person who has to determine whether or not it's worth
the cost of repairing/replacing the internal works of your sewing
machine.  The sewing machine repair guy may well be the person to say
your machine can't be repaired at all (but I'd get a second opinion
unless I were just wanting anyone---emphasis anyONE---to help me
justify buying a newer machine I'd been hungering after), but the
decision is yours, remember.
Once upon a time, plastic gears would have been unthinkable.  Sewing
machines were metal, and that was that.
Then plastic and nylon were introduced with an eye to holding down
costs and, as an added selling point, making home machines,
especially portables, a bit lighter.  That in turn made them easier
for the home user to carry, and for the manufacturer, a bit less
costly to ship.
But the pendulum began to swing the other direction and the
durability of metal has created a demand for metal innards on sewing
machines.

Regarding Vikings or any other machine....  Don't just look.
Research, do your homework, and TRY before you decide and buy.
My SIL used to demonstrate sewing machines for a department store
which is no longer a going concern.  Back then, I was wanting a free-
arm, a built-in buttonholer and some zig-zag stitches, which I've
since realized isn't very specific wishing.  She blew off the
stitches and the buttonholer and ignored the free-arm, and she told
me, "The store might provide you with fabric so you can try the
machine.  If they do, you can be sure it's something fail-safe,
something that machine will NEVER miss on, never mess up with.  It'll
run as nice and smooth as you please, even if you fold that fabric
into eight layers.
"When you shop for a sewing machine," she continued, "bring samples
of fabrics with you, every possible kind of fabric in every possible
weight that you even have the remotest idea you might, in the
remotest possibility, someday need to sew.  Take the heaviest, the
fluffiest, the sheerest, the bulkiest, the stiffest, the flimsiest,
and any and every fiber or blend you can imagine.  The machine *you*
want has to serve *you.*  It has to be able to handle what *you* want
to do."
All of this is to say not that you shouldn't want zig-zag or
embroidery stitches.  (My most recent machine does have a built-in
buttonholer but it's not *automatic,* which I'd assumed it would be
if it were built-in: surprise!)  Just make sure whatever machine you
buy will be able to do what you want or need.  You don't imagine
today you'll ever want to sew a pavilion?  Ah, well; you may never
want to sew a pavilion, buy what about a period-looking rain-fly or a
dining fly or a sun shade?  And what if you want to make the fly or
shade of, say, Sunforger (R) canvas?  Will your machine do that?
Will it allow you to make pole bags of heavy denim for your tent
poles?
You're sewing an ultra-sheer partlet.  If your machine is going to
mangle the fabric you'll have to use someone else's or sew your
partlet by hand.
Do your homework, know what your needs are now and what they might be
(I made that mistake, by the way, with my first machine; I still have
it and use it, but at the time I bought it I never thought I'd be
doing much more than what is known today as Sew Easy (R) type
stuff...and here I am doing late period clothing and pavilions and
anything else that can be sewn for SCA.  Except gambesons; havent'
done a gambeson yet.  <G>)

Yseult the Gentle

>
> >>
> >
>   I probably
> > mentioned this before but I have an old one and it seems that the
> > internal gears are some kind of plastic and my sewing machine guy
> said
> > that it was not worth the cost of repairing/replacing all fo them.
> >
>
>
> I mention this matter of my auto mechanic and his opinions to say,
> *you* are the person who has to determine whether or not it's worth
> the cost of repairing/replacing the internal works of your sewing
> machine.  The sewing machine repair guy may well be the person to say
> your machine can't be repaired at all (but I'd get a second opinion
> unless I were just wanting anyone---emphasis anyONE---to help me
> justify buying a newer machine I'd been hungering after), but the
> decision is yours, remember.



This brings to mind back in the late 1980's when I took my 1950's Pfaff to
the dealer/repair guy at the local fabric shop for some repair.  He told me
at the time he was doing a replacement of the brushes in the motor (they had
turned to dust), that he didn't have the right ones, didn't think this would
work, and I couldn't get a replacement motor, etc... and worse of all talked
to my (soon to be ex)husband who was along for the ride about my machine,
like I was some silly female that couldn't possible understand anything
about something mechanical.  Well, the repair job was not satisfactory and
the machine didn't work quite right.  I managed to get the machine to one of
my brothers who filed off the brushes and the machine worked for another ten
years before I had to get it worked on again.  (That's when I took up SCA
sewing, pavilions, Elizabethan's, gambsons and leather... if it fits under
the pressure foot, I think I've sewn it at this point)

I really think that he saw I had brand loyalty and he thought he'd make a
sale if I couldn't get the machine repaired.  Bottom line I would have gone
to another state to buy a new Pfaff if I had to,  I'd never go back to that
guy.

alex
still happy with her Pfaff that is working just fine with whatever weight I
put to it.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I too had an old machine (Singer) that I was loyal to and took it in to the only
place that worked on machines (small town), estimate was almost as much as a new
one (he didn't carry Singer) so in a bind I purchased a new one from him; but, I
still did not want to dispose of my old Singer so I went to my brother's house
and he took it to a Singer repair shop and I paid all of $50 and it works like a
dream.  By this time I had already purchased a new machine but I still sew on my
old Singer!

   Sometimes it is best to get a second opinion.  I know I would have if there
had been anyone I could take it to.

   While I am happy with my new machine I still feel like I was tricked into
buying one of his machines.

   Hope you have better luck than me.
   Lady Von

Alexandria Doyle <garbaholic@...> wrote:
           >
> >>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

posted: Eh. I just had a similar conversation with a mechanic about my car.
In the car's case, he didn't say directly that it isn't worth while
to try to keep mine running, but he *did* volunteer his oh-so-NOT-
humble opinion and rule of thumb, and according to his rule of thumb
it wouldn't be worth my while to continue to drive the car I have.


   reply:
     some times if you have an auto tech school in area you can get a car
repaired for parts cost. is worth checking out.  Thats how we got our pickup
truck repaired.

   rokedemyah


The All Mighty feeds your spirit. food feeds your body, but spinning feeds the
soul. http://www.cheapdrumcarder.rokedemiah.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have the opportunity to buy some linen blends (60%linen/40%cotton
and 55%linen/45%rayon) and was wondering if these would be good for
garb? (No specific period, I'm a costumer and want to have some
different things on hand.) Also, these are the colours available ~
olive, navy, black, ivory, rust, sage, melon, hunter, berry, and cocoa
~ which would you like?

I figured doing a little research before making a large purchase would
be a good idea =)

Thanks for your help (I've really appreciated what a great resource
all of you are!)

~Maeve (mka Jeni)

maeveypoo wrote:

>I have the opportunity to buy some linen blends (60%linen/40%cotton
>and 55%linen/45%rayon) and was wondering if these would be good for
>garb? (No specific period, I'm a costumer and want to have some
>different things on hand.) Also, these are the colours available ~
>olive, navy, black, ivory, rust, sage, melon, hunter, berry, and cocoa
>~ which would you like?
>
>

I like _all_ of those colours except for perhaps navy, but I personally
don't much care for linen in outerwear.  I'd use any of those colours in
cotton/linen blend for linings, though, and possibly some of them (rust,
particularly) for lower-class kirtles and the like if the weight was
suitable.  I would absolutely positively buy some for those purposes if
the price were right.

Additionally, the 60/40 linen-cotton may be good for undershirts
(camici, chemises, smocks, gomleks, or whatever we're calling them
today) if it's a suitable weight.  It's not as good as 100% linen, but
it's heaps better than 100% cotton.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "maeveypoo" <silverdragon323@...>
wrote:
>
> I have the opportunity to buy some linen blends (60%linen/40%cotton
> and 55%linen/45%rayon) and was wondering if these would be good for
> garb?

The cotton/linen is probably more durable and probably looks better
than the rayon/linen (which could be too slinky and prone to
creeping off-grain)

(No specific period, I'm a costumer and want to have some
> different things on hand.) Also, these are the colours available ~
> olive, navy, black, ivory, rust, sage, melon, hunter, berry, and
cocoa
> ~ which would you like?

Colors are very specific to the individual... so just cause I like
it doesn't mean it will look good on you.  In general, most of those
colors should look reasonably authentic for garb, with the exception
of melon and berry if they are too bright.  Ivory might work better
for undergarments.

Rashid

I would go for the linen/cotton mixture (I use similar for summers like
today) but personally would not touch the rayon - burns easier and is hotter
(and less period too).
Kat.
La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia
Innilgard.
The Purplefiles http://katerina.purplefiles.net

"Life may not be the party we hoped for...  but while we are here we might
as well dance!"


>I have the opportunity to buy some linen blends (60%linen/40%cotton
> and 55%linen/45%rayon) and was wondering if these would be good for
> garb?
> ~Maeve (mka Jeni)
>

I do a lot of costuming for others, and I would try and stock up on the
greens - for some reason, I have trouble finding it and it is always snapped
up right away!  Also the reds.  Frankly, all the colors sound good but I
wouldn't buy too much navy.

The linen-cotten blend for sure, but I would stay away from linen-rayon.

Berenice

Unto all, I post this for your information, and some may have already read this
some where else. I heard that according to Wal-mart corporate they are doing a
trial in their fabric department to see if pre-packages material will do better
than the cutting table, and that they are trying this at a few stores. Well, I
just left my local wal-mart and this is not the whole truth. According to the
notice the employees recieved, both the Willimantic and Manchester stores in
Connecticut are slated to have the fabric department closed! They were told that
only 75 stores will have fabric at all. Now, this means for me, I have to drive
to Norwich or Manchester to go to Joanns for any fabric or notions. If, while
doing a project, that we all know gets finished the night before, there will be
no place to get emergancy supplies on short notice. I do not know if calling the
800 number in Andreas' e-mail noted below, will do anything to way lay
wal-mart's plans or not but it can't hurt.

   Lahbruinn/Larry

ernest23663 <ernest23663@...> wrote:
   To: EK-BBM@yahoogroups.com
From: "ernest23663" <ernest23663@...>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2007 23:00:11 -0000
Subject: [EK-BBM] Fabric at wal-mart

         I recently learned that wal-mart is planning on discontuning selling
fabric. If anybody would like to try and prevent this please call
1-800-walmart and complain.

Andris





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I went to the sight below and got a reply. Maybe if enough complain they
will change their minds.
Most of the precut is for the quilting crowd. My local Jo Ann's is ecstatic
about being the only fabric store in the area when Wally World stops
selling. With 1 university, 2 colleges and 2 high schools they'll be rich by
the end of the year.
A

-----Original Message-----
Here is a link to give feedback to the company
   http://walmartstores.com/GlobalWMStoresWeb/navigate.do?catg=221
   Suggest that you would rather that they not take away they fabric
departments and the $1 a yard table.  It might not do any good but if
Walmart responds to anything, it responds to consumers.  So tell them what
you would like to consume.  I did it.
   Eridani

Hi everybody,

Oh boy do I have a overdying question. I bought 5 yards of 60" wool
blend gabardine on ebay  this past week. I received it today and it is a
cranberry red pretty much the color that you see in the custom colors at
the RIT site ( http://www.ritdye.com/b.asp ), defintely NOT what I was
hoping for in a red. If it ends up being too pink for my husband's
taste, I would probably be overdyeing it in my washing machine to get
more of a burgundy or dark red color. So my question would I use a brown
dye, dark red or a navy dye to make a darker red? These are my guesses
from glancing through the rit's custom dyes and overdying pages.

I am planning to see what brand of dyes the really nice yarn store has
this weekend, I know they carry the jacquard dyes for silk and some
other brands, so hopefully they have one that will work on a wool blend
otherwise I will have to use a Rit or Dylon dye. Yeah, I need to get
this overdyed and the burnoos/cloak started on pronto, so I don't know
that I can't wait even for a order to Dharma for the dyes.

thanks for any help in figuring out this overdying problem.

Kathws
/ /

<snip>So my question would I use a brown
dye, dark red or a navy dye to make a darker red? These are my guesses
from glancing through the rit's custom dyes and overdying pages.

Likely a scarlet red with some blue or green in, actually. Kind of
counter-intuitive, but it has more to do with the color wheel and
complementary color schemes.

Margaret "BTDT" Northwode


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]