File        : The Society Seasonal Archery Challenge.doc
Description : Society Seasonal Archery Challenge-general rules

The following SCA-Archery poll is now closed.  Here are the
final results:


POLL QUESTION: SSAC: Fall. Which of the following archery competitions would you
like to see shot next, starting October1. See the posts of the last few days for
descriptions of the shoots.

CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Blunts, 1 votes, 6.67%
- Blunts Challenge, 1 votes, 6.67%
- Double Royal, 1 votes, 6.67%
- Five Pillars, 2 votes, 13.33%
- Popinjay, 3 votes, 20.00%
- Roundel Sextet, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Triangle, 7 votes, 46.67%



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I find the other shoots balance the bow weights. That heavier bow may
not be as accurate or as quick in a speed round. We are currently
doing this and we registered the bows each shot for the distance and
they must use the SAME bow for the remainder.




Baron James Llewellyn ap Gruffydd
OGGS


On 9/30/12, Harry Billings <humble_archer@...> wrote:
>
> If you want to keep it from being a contest of who can shoot the heaviest
> bow divide the distance by the bow weight.
>
> plachoya
> Ansteorra
>
>
>
>
>
> To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
> From: cogworks@...
> Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 13:26:43 +0000
> Subject: [SCA-Archery] Re: New poll for SCA-Archery
>
>
>
>
>
> Personally, I really like the Five Pillars challenge. HOWEVER, I would
> choose to make one change to it. The Ability to Strike From A Distance
> becomes a simple matter of bow poundage, i.e. higher draw weight, farther
> flight of shaft. Yes, yes, I know there are other factors but in reality a
> 30 pound bow is not going to shoot an arrow as far as a 55 pound bow. So I
> would suggest a change wherein the archer shoot 3 arrows. Only arrows
> landing 100 yards or more from the archer count. Any arrow falling short
> scores a penalty amount. The score is, in inches, the length of a string
> wrapped around the three shafts at the base where they are stuck in the
> ground. If they are not stuck in the ground then the measurement is to the
> shaft's point. This then mandates that the shafts must fly at least 100
> yards for distance BUT also land very close to each other instead of being
> sprayed all over the field. To me this equalizes the issue of bow poundage
> and better measures the Ability To Strike From A Distance, i.e. can the
> archer actually hit something at distance or just nuisance them by landing
> arrows "near" them.
>
> While I am not a victim of winter weather as others are, I appreciate the
> need to keep the challenge within 20 yards. Thus my choice this time around
> would be the Triangle shot. It seems sneakily diabolical and I like that!
>
> cog
>
>
>
>
>

> Hello,
>
> After about a decade of my bow collecting dust I've
> decided that heavy
> weapons isn't as forgiving on my joints as it once was
> and have decided to
> get back into archery on a regular basis. As such I have
> probably forgotten
> more then I realize. I need to ask a bunch of questions
> so I appologize if
> any of these seem silly or easy to look up elsewhere.

Welcome back!


> Most importantly is the 55lb Bushmaster I used to shoot
> was a wonderful
> tool when my muscles were accustomed to it but right now
> it's a little
> unstable after the 4th or 5th set of flights. Other then
> stringing, drawing
> and holding 20 times per night, what are good exercises
> to build up archery
> muscles?

I would go with a lighter recurve or long bow. 40 pounds is
plenty to do all we do in the SCA and a good recurve has
enough zip to keep a lighter arrow flying straight. One of
the best shooters around I know pulls 45 pounds, most pull
less. That said, the sporting goods store has bungee like
muscle training devices with handles on both ends for a few
bucks. You can modify one as needed to simulate a bow draw.

> I was originally taught a draw-style for heavy bows that
> is very efficient.
> Point the bow UP, pull the nock to the anchor point
> first, push up on the
> bow second, let the weight of the bow come down and cam
> the shoulders into
> the final draw length. This is a very muscle efficient
> way of pulling a
> heavy bow but some marshals freak out when the arrow is
> partially drawn and
> pointed up. While I have never had a misfire I won't say
> that their fears
> are unfounded. What is the best way to pull a heavy bow
> and does anyone
> know the period way to pull a heavy bow? Videos are
> great.

Again, get a lighter bow and you can draw horizontal.

>
> I'm re-habbing some old arrows that are probably
> under-spined for my bow
> but I'd rather loose and bust-up my beaters while getting
> back into
> pratice. How much hot-melt should be used to re-mount a
> tip? How hot does
> it need to be to melt without burning the wood? (Is MAPP
> too hot and do I
> need to switch to Propane?) Is there a good way to get
> broken nocks free
> and I think I can mount new-ones with fletch-tight?

Hot enough to make it flow, which is nowhere near hot
enough to burn the wood. Soften the glue put a dab on the
shaft. Then heat the tip and push it on, hold for a few
seconds and dip in water. Enough glue to make it squeeze
out. I peel off the excess when it cools. Not a lot of heat
is needed. MAP or propane works, but is really overkill. I
use a small butane torch from my local home improvement
center, like so:


http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100564678/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=\
10053&langId=-1&keyword=butane+torch&storeId=10051#.UGp8B0IVyU0

Fletch Tite is fine for nocks. A little heat can help
loosen an old one.

> Does fletch-tight have a shelf-life? Mine is 10+ years
> old.

I would get a fresh tube.

>
> I'm using a continuous loop dacron string but would like
> to switch to a
> flemish twist instead. I recall there being a controversy
> about them at
> some point in the past? Is there anything I should be
> aware of in terms of
> legal equipment changes in the past 10 years or so?

Flemish twists are the most common stringing technique for
long bows and recurves that I see out there today.


> Hmmm, I know I had more questions but I can't think of
> them right now. I
> appreciate the help getting back into the game.
>
> Thank you
> Sean Powell
> Symon de Poitiers
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Nock and tip different angle. Most of the hand tools have
both. Think 2 in one pencil sharpener.

On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 09:41:41 -0400
  Sean Powell <sean14powell@...> wrote:
> Frode,
>
> Hmmm. Question I didn't know I needed to know. Is a nock
> sharpening tool
> the same as the tip sharpener or is it a seperate tool?
> and if seperate,
> does it come in different sizes like the tip sharpeners?
>
> Oscar,
>
> Also, thanks for the advice to downgrade in poundage. I
> know my bow is
> overkill for SCA sport and I may play with my wifes lower
> weight horse-bow
> for a time but a re-curve isn't appropriate for my
> persona (hell, I should
> be trampling my own Genoese crossbowmen to kill the
> archers not using a
> bow) but I also like the feel in my hands. Most other
> bows have a 'thwip'
> sound where as mine makes a beautiful 'thrunk' when it
> drives into a
> target. I also can't afford to replace much gear, hence
> reconditioning old
> arrows by scavanging tips and setting them on the better
> surviving shafts.
>
> Sean/Symon
>
> On Mon, Oct 1, 2012 at 8:02 PM, frode_kettilsson
> <anthonyspangler@...>wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > That should read, "You'll probably need to *give* the
> ends a couple of
> > twists with the nock sharpening tool"...
> >

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When willied0296@... put fingers to keys it was 10/2/12 10:11 AM...

>
>
> I concur with Francois; the 3 pack from 3 Rivers is a good deal. They
> are nice because they can be easily carried in your pouch (presuming you
> have one), along with a small bottle of super glue, for quick and easy
> field repairs (again, presuming you carry extra points and/or nocks with
> you. I do, along with needle nose pliers and a Swiss Army Knife, or a
> multitool).
>
> Gwilym
> Barony Beyond the Mountain
...

And a lighter and a candle. For getting the old ones off.

--
Fritz
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam.

Gaelen

Actually, no, everything Hardy wrote is
not an equaly good source. I am a PhD in the field of Military
History, and my comment on “The Great Warbow” as opposed to
“Longbow” was a professional judgment. I will add to my to do
list doing a detailed review of the two books.
Charles O'Connor
(mka J. Patrick Hughes, PhD)

=============
I concur.

Hardy wrote a decent narrative but the books are basically unreferenced for a
start. It would have helped
'Longbow' very much if a bibliography was included, but it's not.

I VERY highly recommend 'The Crooked Stick, A History of the Longbow' by Hugh D.
H. Soar and any other works
by him. Highly detailed, very well referenced. Truly excellent works.

Dirk Edward of Frisia
(mka Dirk Hermance- MA History)

OK, my reply is horribly late on this subject, but the information is relevant.
I like the idea of scoring on the spread of the group. 100 yards is a distance
that can be reached by most of the target bows already on the range. I know this
because at a shoot this last August we tried shooting at a mark placed at 125
yards. Some of the archers shooting lighter bows had to move up 10 or 20 yards
in order to reach the mark. As far as grouping the arrows, that's a lot harder.
Far fewer than half of the arrows landed within a bow length of the mark. That's
a 12 foot circle. About a third of the arrows were outside a 36 foot circle.
Obviously, most of these archers had no previous practice at distance shooting.
It was really fun though.
An interesting note: I switched to a heavier bow in order to reach the mark at
125 yards. While shooting the next morning I discovered I could reach it with my
regular target bow. This was accomplished by drawing to my chest instead of my
cheek. This was with the same bow, the same arrows, drawn to the head, at the
same angle( I had someone stand off and check. By drawing to my chest I could
shoot 20 yards farther. I think it might be because my hand is braced flat on my
chest and my release is consequently smoother. It might also be the geometry of
my arms losing less energy in the recoil. In any case, its worth 20 yards.

Edward le Kervere

--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "The Greys" <cogworks@...> wrote:
>
> Personally, I really like the Five Pillars challenge.  HOWEVER, I would choose
to make one change to it.  The Ability to Strike From A Distance becomes a
simple matter of bow poundage, i.e. higher draw weight, farther flight of shaft.
Yes, yes, I know there are other factors but in reality a 30 pound bow is not
going to shoot an arrow as far as a 55 pound bow.  So I would suggest a change
wherein the archer shoot 3 arrows.  Only arrows landing 100 yards or more from
the archer count.  Any arrow falling short scores a penalty amount.  The score
is, in inches, the length of a string wrapped around the three shafts at the
base where they are stuck in the ground.  If they are not stuck in the ground
then the measurement is to the shaft's point.  This then mandates that the
shafts must fly at least 100 yards for distance BUT also land very close to each
other instead of being sprayed all over the field.  To me this equalizes the
issue of bow poundage and better measures the Ability To Strike From A Distance,
i.e. can the archer actually hit something at distance or just nuisance them by
landing arrows "near" them.
>
> While I am not a victim of winter weather as others are, I appreciate the need
to keep the challenge within 20 yards.  Thus my choice this time around would be
the Triangle shot.  It seems sneakily diabolical and I like that!
>
> cog
>