Yes Aedan to your question--that is why Arab women
kick butt!!! *wicked grin*

Naima *the kick butt Morroccan* hehe

=====
Sayyida Naima bint Rashid al-Andalusiyya, CGP
Shire of Bronzehelm
House Dragon

my philosophy="If you ask a question you don't want an answer to,
  expect an answer you don't want to hear"

__________________________________
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http://calendar.yahoo.com

>Elephant bow
   Ummmmm WOW that would be intersting to see.

And what's wrong with the phrase "the dream"? I think
it works what do you prefer?

Naima

=====
Sayyida Naima bint Rashid al-Andalusiyya, CGP
Shire of Bronzehelm
House Dragon

my philosophy="If you ask a question you don't want an answer to,
  expect an answer you don't want to hear"

__________________________________
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On 3 Jun 2003 at 22:10, Naima wrote:

> And what's wrong with the phrase "the dream"? I think
> it works what do you prefer?

FWIW, the phrase originated as a marketing slogan for a local event
(in Ansteora?).  It has *become* a sort of schmaltzy catch phrase
frequently used to paint the SCA as a haven for leftover '60s hippies
and escapists rtaher than an educational organization.

Or, as someone else put it, the problem with "The Dream" isn't the
"Dream," it's "_The_".

YIS,
Macsen

Greetings, I am still looking for the following people
to contact me, or for someone who knows them to
contact me so that I can get them the medallions that
they won for last year's IKAC. If you are in the list
below, or if you know someone in the list below,
please drop me a line. They are really nice
medallions, metal and everything! :)

OPEN/CROSSBOW - MIDREALM: Robert Thorne, Alan of
Caerlaverock,Dorinda Scorpione.
PERIOD/CROSSBOW - MIDREALM: Robert Thorne, Alan of
Caerlaverock.
CHILDREN - Roland (ATLANTIA), Logan O’Reilly
(ATLANTIA), Joy O’Neil (ATENVELDT).

Thanks,
- Lorenzo

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

Greetings all,


      I was wondering what is a good source of crossbows,suitable for
sca use? Any information as to venders, to instruction on
construction would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Odean "the incorrigable" of Darach Shire

the feather itself is peeling off... the glue is
staying with the fletching
Kim

--- "James W. Pratt, Jr." <cunning@...> wrote:
> Put some extra glue along the fletchings.  Are the
> fletching coming off at
> the glue line or are the spines still glued down?
> Is the glue staying with
> the feather or with the arrow?
>
> James Cunningham
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kimberly" <breenasmom@...>
> To: <SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 1:11 PM
> Subject: [SCA-Archery] Fletching
>
>
> > Hi,
> >   Two arrows (out of six) that I've bought have
> the
> > fletching starting to peel off.  I was wondering
> if
> > anyone can tell me how to fix that and reinforce
> the
> > rest of my fletching on the rest of the arrows.
> > Thanks,
> > Kim
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync
> to Outlook(TM).
> > http://calendar.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
---8<---------------------------------------------
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> Medieval Mart
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> http://www.medievalmart.com/
> >
> > [Email to SCA-Archery-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> to leave this list]
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
---8<---------------------------------------------
> Brought to you YahooGroups Ad Free in 2002 by
> Medieval Mart
> Get Medieval at Mad Macsen's
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>
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> leave this list]
>
>
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>


__________________________________
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http://calendar.yahoo.com

Start with: http://www.crossbows.net/
http://members.aol.com/AGPitts/
http://www.alcheminc.com/crossbow.html
http://www.by-the-sword.com/crosbows.html
Some of these URL's are old let me know if they do not work.

James Cunningham

Crossbows in the SCA


> Greetings all,
>
>
>      I was wondering what is a good source of crossbows,suitable for
> sca use? Any information as to venders, to instruction on
> construction would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Odean "the incorrigable" of Darach Shire
>
>
>
> ---8<---------------------------------------------
> Brought to you YahooGroups Ad Free in 2002 by Medieval Mart
> Get Medieval at Mad Macsen's http://www.medievalmart.com/
>
> [Email to SCA-Archery-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com to leave this list]
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

It sounds like the glue that was used isn't adhering to the sealant on
the shaft.  I would try Fletch-Tite in this case as it sticks better than
Duco or the other cellulose based glues.  Make sure you clean the shaft
under the fletching with a piece of clean, thin cloth and alcohol before
gluing.

In service to the dream
Carolus von Eulenhorst
eulenhorst@...

On Wed, 4 Jun 2003 11:07:01 -0700 (PDT) Kimberly <breenasmom@...>
writes:
> the feather itself is peeling off... the glue is
> staying with the fletching
> Kim

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

I would add:
http://crossbows.biz/

For no good reason *evil grin*

Siegfried


At 02:30 PM 6/4/2003 -0400, James W. Pratt, Jr. wrote:
>Start with: http://www.crossbows.net/
>http://members.aol.com/AGPitts/
>http://www.alcheminc.com/crossbow.html
>http://www.by-the-sword.com/crosbows.html
>Some of these URL's are old let me know if they do not work.
>
>James Cunningham
>
>Crossbows in the SCA

_________________________________________________________________________
THL Siegfried Sebastian Faust     Baronial Web Minister & Archery Marshal
Barony of Highland Foorde        http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org/

Sent a missive looking for the youth from Atenveldt.

Ian Griffen the Archer

Andre Detommaso <detomamd@...> wrote:
Greetings, I am still looking for the following people
to contact me, or for someone who knows them to
contact me so that I can get them the medallions that
they won for last year's IKAC. If you are in the list
below, or if you know someone in the list below,
please drop me a line. They are really nice
medallions, metal and everything! :)

OPEN/CROSSBOW - MIDREALM: Robert Thorne, Alan of
Caerlaverock,Dorinda Scorpione.
PERIOD/CROSSBOW - MIDREALM: Robert Thorne, Alan of
Caerlaverock.
CHILDREN - Roland (ATLANTIA), Logan O’Reilly
(ATLANTIA), Joy O’Neil (ATENVELDT).

Thanks,
- Lorenzo

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

---8<---------------------------------------------
Brought to you YahooGroups Ad Free in 2002 by Medieval Mart
Get Medieval at Mad Macsen's http://www.medievalmart.com/

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---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Nice site!! You need to put a picture of your self along with your bows.

James Cunningham
Maker of the Cunningham notch lock.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Siegfried Sebastian Faust" <crossbow@...>
To: <SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Crossbows in the SCA


> I would add:
> http://crossbows.biz/
>
> For no good reason *evil grin*
>
> Siegfried
>
>
> At 02:30 PM 6/4/2003 -0400, James W. Pratt, Jr. wrote:
> >Start with: http://www.crossbows.net/
> >http://members.aol.com/AGPitts/
> >http://www.alcheminc.com/crossbow.html
> >http://www.by-the-sword.com/crosbows.html
> >Some of these URL's are old let me know if they do not work.
> >
> >James Cunningham
> >
> >Crossbows in the SCA
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> THL Siegfried Sebastian Faust     Baronial Web Minister & Archery Marshal
> Barony of Highland Foorde        http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org/
>
>
> ---8<---------------------------------------------
> Brought to you YahooGroups Ad Free in 2002 by Medieval Mart
> Get Medieval at Mad Macsen's http://www.medievalmart.com/
>
> [Email to SCA-Archery-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com to leave this list]
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Like the others have said...it is an incompatability between the glue and
the finish of the arrow.  Any oil finish is hard to glue to.  Tung oil when
dry is also very hard to get the feathers to stay put.  A crown dip of paint
prior to putting on the feathers can solve some of the problems.  We have
just tried the crown tape(used in place of crown dipping) and the glue seems
to be holding so far.  You may have to sand the areas where the feathers go
to get a good bond you can also tie the feathers on...the period solution
for poor glue.

James Cunningham

Hi,
I found this website and I'm wondering how correct it
is.
http://www.users.nac.net/rfd/eoa/index.html  Thanks!
Kim

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

It is rarely mentioned in the news of Australia's contibution during
the recent conflicts.  This is a contribution form a Lochac SCA
member that you might enjoy. I think it is about Bosnia

Man From Stowe.

It was early morning when I answered the knock at my door,
Only to recieve news that troops were headed out for war.
Very soon after did I pack my bag,
For behind other troops I did not want to lag.
So began my journey, and for those who did not know,
I was no warrior, just a humble Lord who hailed from Stowe.
Several weeks later we reached the grounds for our war,
And upon gazing at the battle field I realised what I was here for.
I'd come to meet death, and for this I was scared,
I had no form of knowledge, I was here ill prepared.
I looked at the grounds, and for those who did not know,
I was no warrior, just a humble Lord who hailed from Stowe.
The first thing i did was find someone to train,
For days I fought and did it cause me pain!
Several weeks later we heard the enemy was here,
And from the pit of my belly did rise up my fear.
I soiled my pants, and for those who did not know,
I was just a fumbling ill trained warrior who hailed from Stowe.
The very next day we were gathered and put in line,
And then we were sent to our doom in that forrest of pine.
And as I stood there, there upon the ground,
from the innermost chamber of my heart my courage was found.
I let out a CRY!!! and for those who did not know,
I was a man willing to die for my homeland of STOWE!!!!
I do not remember what happend next as my mind went blank,
I ask your forgiveness for my being so frank.
I'd somehow survived, but I did not know how,
And from the pit of my stomach I began to feel foul.
There I did retch, and for those who did not know,
I was one lucky bastard who hailed from Stowe.
Again I was sent on the field but I did not care,
I was here to meet death but again came out fair.
When the campaign had end there was something I'd gain,
I was talked about by everyone like those legends of fame.
How I had survived was a wonder to all,
But now I was a legend who stood ten feet tall.
And so I went home, and for those who did not know,
I was a mighty victorious war vetren who hailed from Stowe.

yeah, so my attempt at a poem.......
Good luck to all the Stowe fighters in the upcoming war.
Live long, Kill lots.
Grimkell Ravenhair.

--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Kimberly <breenasmom@y...> wrote:
> Hi,
> I found this website and I'm wondering how correct it
> is.
> http://www.users.nac.net/rfd/eoa/index.html  Thanks!
> Kim


Is there something specific on the site that you are wondering about?

It is a nice book that covers a time before compounds and where
fibreglass was just coming into its own. I have used the drawings in
the book as a reference for working on my bows. But I have also used
other sources as information.

The author does dismiss some woods like ash and hickory as being
inferior woods to only use when nothing else is available. While most
bowyers would still consider osage and yew as the two best bow woods,
most feel that you can make a very good bow out of many of the white
hardwoods like ash and hickory. He shows his error with the
criticism "They produce bows that shoot fairly well in the beginning,
but they soon lose cast and become flabby and weak. When they dry out
thoroughly they become brittle and break." White wood is seasoned
differently then osage and yew but I don't think that he has seasoned
the white wood at all.

It is a little skimpy on the details of tillering or working down to
a back ring. A bow is seldom made by following a specific formula.
The magic and fun is all in that tillering stage. The Traditional
Bowyer's Bible volume 1 covers this fairly well.

The care and handling section is good and still applies.

A quick glance at the arrow section looks okay but your range
marshall may be a bit concerned if you are reducing the weight of
your heavier arrows by scraping wood from it. She/he might prefer you
increased the weight of your light arrows with extra coats of finish.

James Wolfden

--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "jameswolfden"
<jameswolfden@y...> wrote:
> --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Kimberly <breenasmom@y...>
wrote:
> > Hi,
> > I found this website and I'm wondering how correct it
> > is.
> > http://www.users.nac.net/rfd/eoa/index.html  Thanks!
> > Kim
>
>
>> James Wolfden

My research has indicated that pear wood was widely used on early
recurves, with sinew inserts and horn grasp.  My horsebow is made of
such, without the horn, but you can buy one.  It is wrapped in
pigskin -- the siyahs are alder.

Kinjal

Greetings all,
I am new to target archery and have a few questions if you can
indulge me.

First of all, though I am new to target archery I am not new to
shooting in general, so most of my questions pertain to equipment. I
have recently purchased a traditional longbow, in red oak, that pulls
30# at 28 inches. I bought it specifically to be used for both target
and combat archery, though I am focusing on target archery for the
moment. I also bought it specifically to shoot in the period division
of IKAC matches. This means I need self nocked non-plastic nock
arrows. I plan to use cedar shafts and reinforced self nocks with
wrapped linen thread. Assuming I cut the self nocks perpendicular to
the grain, will I experience a problem with nock damage with this
draw weight? I am using 5/16 shafts. I would also appreciate any
guidance on spine weight, though I know this is a very personal
thing, dependant on many factors. Is there a general rule of thumb
regarding spine weight when shooting a longbow? For the record, it is
a straight stick, D-shape cross section, linen backed, 70 inches
long, with a light coat of polyurethane to protect the finish as per
the bowyer's instructions. It has a twisted linen string with nock
point 1/8 inch above center.

Now for the shooting question. I am very experienced with rifle
marksmanship, and was curious what sort of sight picture I should be
seeing at 20 30 and 40 yards with a bow. I test fired it at 10 yards
as per the instruction and sighted down the shaft, my anchor point is
second knuckle of the thumb at the corner of the mouth, and it hits
point of aim-point of impact. Assuming there will be some drop at
longer ranges, is it best to adjust the aiming point at different
ranges or should I still aim at the point of impact but sight from a
different point on the bow. I have seen archers using marks on the
bow, and there are plenty of "sight pin" things on the market, so I
assume this is a pretty popular way to aim. But, I have also seen
archers who dont use marks on the bow and was just curious how one
aims these things. It doesnt have a front sight post and rear sight
aperature dangit!

Thank you for indulging me,
James ap Llywelyn

Hi James,
       Welcome to the most noble of sports,archery, the way it should be
done.

First: Spine weight of arrows used on a shelfless self bow should be
well uder the actual draw weight of the bow. So in other words, give
arrows in the 20-25# spine range a try. The final decision will need to
be made after you have tried a few different spine weights--different
archers, different needs. But this is a good starting point.

Self nocked arrows are more at risk from being hit by other arrows than
by wear from the string. When you break the nock, you have a pretty
pointy stick you can no longer shoot. Reinforcing with wrapping sure
looks pretty, but isn't absolutely neccessary at the weight you are
shooting. Do it anyway, better to be too safe. Make a jig to cut your
nocks so they are all the same and straight. And sand or file all rough
edges. I shoot a lot of self nocked arrows.

You don't aim a bow and arrow the same way you aim a firearm. You don't
have sights. I shoot instinctive/gap style. It's the same approach as
Howard Hill used a a unch of other great traditional archers. There is
also Point-of-Aim shooting and plain gap shooting and instinctive
shooting. They each have their pluses and minuses. I am obviously biased
toward a more instinctive approach but that may not be for you. Read as
many books on archery as you can find and try stuff, you'll sort it out.
Fred Bear's "The Archer's Bible" is a good readily accessable book with
some good hints and practices in it. You can probably get it in your
local bookstore. There are others out there which are more specific and
very good, but you'll have to order them.
Magazines such as "Traditional Bowhunter", "Instinctive Archer" and
"Primitive Archer" are also great things to read up in.
       Find your local SCA archery marshals and officers and ask for
their help.
Keep asking questions here. We're a rel friendly group and we don't
always agree on things, but we don't bite either :)

-Geoffrei


http://community.webtv.net/jrosswebb1/EASTWINDStribal

James-

>. Assuming I cut the self nocks perpendicular to
>the grain, will I experience a problem with nock damage with this
>draw weight?

Typically not for while, but all self-nock deteriorate over time.


>  I am using 5/16 shafts. I would also appreciate any
>guidance on spine weight, though I know this is a very personal
>thing, dependant on many factors. Is there a general rule of thumb
>regarding spine weight when shooting a longbow?



Typically, again, arrows used with a true longbow with no cut out
shelf should be underspined to allow for enough arrow flex to allow
archers paradox to occur.  So, with a 30# draw weight, an arrow spine
of 25# or even 20# might be appropriate.  However, only your
experience will tell you what works best for you.



>
>  Assuming there will be some drop at
>longer ranges, is it best to adjust the aiming point at different
>ranges


Yes.  And yes, at 40 yds, you will experience a significant drop, say
3 to 4 ft, depending on arrow velocity leaving your bow.


>there are plenty of "sight pin" things on the market

These are illegal for SCA shooting

>
>Thank you for indulging me,
>James ap Llywelyn

James- where are you from?  Let's get you in contact with you local
archery captain, who will cheerfully answer what ever other questions
you might have.

		 YIS,
			 Lord Owen ap Howell

Personally, I use the knuckles on my bow hand as sight guides for different
ranges.. I shoot a 25# longbow and because of this I se quite a bit of
drop-off and limb marks would not work for me. Do whatever makes you most
comfortable. I sight off the arrow at 20 yards, first knuckle at 30 and
second at 40.. works for my style. The thing to remember when shooting this
way is line up your knuckle with your target mark wherever that might be at
centerline then move your bow to the side to line the arrow up horizontally.
This even works for me at the clout, though I aim there more by a certain
bend of the waist.... Go practice and see what works best for you.






From the desk of:

Joe Irvine

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/graewulf

-----Original Message-----
From: James ap Llywelyn [mailto:jim_layne@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 1:22 PM
To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SCA-Archery] New shooter questions

Greetings all,
I am new to target archery and have a few questions if you can
indulge me.

First of all, though I am new to target archery I am not new to
shooting in general, so most of my questions pertain to equipment. I
have recently purchased a traditional longbow, in red oak, that pulls
30# at 28 inches. I bought it specifically to be used for both target
and combat archery, though I am focusing on target archery for the
moment. I also bought it specifically to shoot in the period division
of IKAC matches. This means I need self nocked non-plastic nock
arrows. I plan to use cedar shafts and reinforced self nocks with
wrapped linen thread. Assuming I cut the self nocks perpendicular to
the grain, will I experience a problem with nock damage with this
draw weight? I am using 5/16 shafts. I would also appreciate any
guidance on spine weight, though I know this is a very personal
thing, dependant on many factors. Is there a general rule of thumb
regarding spine weight when shooting a longbow? For the record, it is
a straight stick, D-shape cross section, linen backed, 70 inches
long, with a light coat of polyurethane to protect the finish as per
the bowyer's instructions. It has a twisted linen string with nock
point 1/8 inch above center.

Now for the shooting question. I am very experienced with rifle
marksmanship, and was curious what sort of sight picture I should be
seeing at 20 30 and 40 yards with a bow. I test fired it at 10 yards
as per the instruction and sighted down the shaft, my anchor point is
second knuckle of the thumb at the corner of the mouth, and it hits
point of aim-point of impact. Assuming there will be some drop at
longer ranges, is it best to adjust the aiming point at different
ranges or should I still aim at the point of impact but sight from a
different point on the bow. I have seen archers using marks on the
bow, and there are plenty of "sight pin" things on the market, so I
assume this is a pretty popular way to aim. But, I have also seen
archers who dont use marks on the bow and was just curious how one
aims these things. It doesnt have a front sight post and rear sight
aperature dangit!

Thank you for indulging me,
James ap Llywelyn


---8<---------------------------------------------
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--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Eric & Mary Ward <ecward@s...>
wrote:
> James-

Are not 'bone nocks' legal as traditional and avoids the splitting
problem?

Kinjal
>
> >. Assuming I cut the self nocks perpendicular to
> >the grain, will I experience a problem with nock damage with this
> >draw weight?
>
> Typically not for while, but all self-nock deteriorate over time.
>
>
> >  I am using 5/16 shafts. I would also appreciate any
> >guidance on spine weight, though I know this is a very personal
> >thing, dependant on many factors. Is there a general rule of thumb
> >regarding spine weight when shooting a longbow?
>
>
>
> Typically, again, arrows used with a true longbow with no cut out
> shelf should be underspined to allow for enough arrow flex to
allow
> archers paradox to occur.  So, with a 30# draw weight, an arrow
spine
> of 25# or even 20# might be appropriate.  However, only your
> experience will tell you what works best for you.
>
>
>
> >
> >  Assuming there will be some drop at
> >longer ranges, is it best to adjust the aiming point at different
> >ranges
>
>
> Yes.  And yes, at 40 yds, you will experience a significant drop,
say
> 3 to 4 ft, depending on arrow velocity leaving your bow.
>
>
> >there are plenty of "sight pin" things on the market
>
> These are illegal for SCA shooting
>
> >
> >Thank you for indulging me,
> >James ap Llywelyn
>
> James- where are you from?  Let's get you in contact with you
local
> archery captain, who will cheerfully answer what ever other
questions
> you might have.
>
> 	 YIS,
> 		 Lord Owen ap Howell

Greetings James,

I shot a 40 pound longbow for years with self nocks, and I never had a
problem with them splitting. I started out wrapping them, but them later
got lazy and didn't even do that. Just cut them out and then shot them. As
a rule of thumb I always started with an arrow apine which was 5 pounds
lighter than the draw weight at my draw length. Don't forget if the bow is
30 pounds at 28 inches and you are drawing 30 inches the poundage will be
higher. I always figure about 3 pounds per inch. This is a longbow without
an arrow shelf, right?

Someone else already talked about the way I aim, so I will leave it at
that.

Nest


--- James ap Llywelyn <jim_layne@...> wrote:
> Greetings all,
> I am new to target archery and have a few questions if you can
> indulge me.
>
> First of all, though I am new to target archery I am not new to
> shooting in general, so most of my questions pertain to equipment. I
> have recently purchased a traditional longbow, in red oak, that pulls
> 30# at 28 inches. I bought it specifically to be used for both target
> and combat archery, though I am focusing on target archery for the
> moment. I also bought it specifically to shoot in the period division
> of IKAC matches. This means I need self nocked non-plastic nock
> arrows. I plan to use cedar shafts and reinforced self nocks with
> wrapped linen thread. Assuming I cut the self nocks perpendicular to
> the grain, will I experience a problem with nock damage with this
> draw weight? I am using 5/16 shafts. I would also appreciate any
> guidance on spine weight, though I know this is a very personal
> thing, dependant on many factors. Is there a general rule of thumb
> regarding spine weight when shooting a longbow? For the record, it is
> a straight stick, D-shape cross section, linen backed, 70 inches
> long, with a light coat of polyurethane to protect the finish as per
> the bowyer's instructions. It has a twisted linen string with nock
> point 1/8 inch above center.
>
> Now for the shooting question. I am very experienced with rifle
> marksmanship, and was curious what sort of sight picture I should be
> seeing at 20 30 and 40 yards with a bow. I test fired it at 10 yards
> as per the instruction and sighted down the shaft, my anchor point is
> second knuckle of the thumb at the corner of the mouth, and it hits
> point of aim-point of impact. Assuming there will be some drop at
> longer ranges, is it best to adjust the aiming point at different
> ranges or should I still aim at the point of impact but sight from a
> different point on the bow. I have seen archers using marks on the
> bow, and there are plenty of "sight pin" things on the market, so I
> assume this is a pretty popular way to aim. But, I have also seen
> archers who dont use marks on the bow and was just curious how one
> aims these things. It doesnt have a front sight post and rear sight
> aperature dangit!
>
> Thank you for indulging me,
> James ap Llywelyn
>
>
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I agree with what my brothers have already stated.  I would suggest that
before you go for the self-nocked arrows, you spend a little bit of time
with modern nocked shafts, just so there is not so great an investment
in time and money.  This allows you to experiment a bit more before
making final decisions on your "permanent" shafting.  Why the quotes?
An arrow's purpose in this universe is to fly and die - either by
hitting the target too many times, missing and becoming lost, or being
shot by another arrow.

I applaud your decision to join our sport and to do so with period style
equipment.  Let us know where you are located (SCA and Mundane is nice),
so we  can help you hook up with people local to you.

Go for the Gold!

Padraig MacRaighne

Greetings to all who enjoy shooting yumi...

I know this may sound like an odd request, but I am working on a
personal art project that I would like to turn into an informational
website showing kyudo, in all of its aspects - including how yumi are
shot in SCA functions...

I would like to portray different group's styles, the dojo they shoot
in, the clothing they wear, (SCA or period clothing, as well as
traditional keikogi), the makiwara and equipment used - everything.

I would also like to feature small articals written by those who
practice various forms, as a general educational benifit.

As an artist and an illustrator, I would also like to turn some of
this information into artwork, to display on the site. I have been
working on many pieces along those lines.

If any of you have any photos, either personal, or from the dojo you
shoot in (or even from back yard "self" practice that you would like
to contribute, I would greatly appreciate it. If you would like to
pass this information to anyone you know who shoot yumi, I would like
that also. Full credits will be given for photos/drawings (etc) that
are submitted.

I would like to build a different style of kyudo website, and I need
many people's help to do it.

I have a "mail to" button on my website, or I can be reached at the
following...

Christopher Wright
(Date no Saburou Yukiie)
3202 West Bell Road #2140
Phoenix, Arizona, USA 85053

Kabuto@c...
samuraisquire@n...

Domo arigato gosaiimashita, tomodachi.
- Date

Shi wa hei to de aru - all are equal in the grave
http://www.kabutographics.com

<embarrassed> Sorry...last post was incomplete with e-mail
addresses...<end embarrassed>

Greetings to all who enjoy shooting yumi...

I know this may sound like an odd request, but I am working on a
personal art project that I would like to turn into an informational
website showing kyudo, in all of its aspects - including how yumi are
shot in SCA functions...

I would like to portray different group's styles, the dojo they shoot
in, the clothing they wear, (SCA or period clothing, as well as
traditional keikogi), the makiwara and equipment used - everything.

I would also like to feature small articals written by those who
practice various forms, as a general educational benifit.

As an artist and an illustrator, I would also like to turn some of
this information into artwork, to display on the site. I have been
working on many pieces along those lines.

If any of you have any photos, either personal, or from the dojo you
shoot in (or even from back yard "self" practice that you would like
to contribute, I would greatly appreciate it. If you would like to
pass this information to anyone you know who shoot yumi, I would like
that also. Full credits will be given for photos/drawings (etc) that
are submitted.

I would like to build a different style of kyudo website, and I need
many people's help to do it.

I have a "mail to" button on my website, or I can be reached at the
following...

Christopher Wright
(Date no Saburou Yukiie)
3202 West Bell Road #2140
Phoenix, Arizona, USA 85053

Kabuto@...
samuraisquire@...
Domo arigato gosaiimashita, tomodachi.
- Date

Shi wa hei to de aru - all are equal in the grave
http://www.kabutographics.com

--- Yama Kaminari no Date Saburou Yukiie <kabuto@...> wrote:
> Greetings to all who enjoy shooting yumi...

I heard that Yumi was a nice guy.  Why would anyone want shoot at him?

*sly grin*

-Caedmon

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http://calendar.yahoo.com

Yumi is a nice guy...his mustache arrow deflection tool is quite
effective - he has not been hit yet!

Sly grin back...

  - Date

> I heard that Yumi was a nice guy.  Why would anyone want shoot at him?
>
> *sly grin*
>
> -Caedmon

Thank you all for the excellent advice. My Knight has many arrows,
from 20#spine to 37#spine, so I think I will take a sheaf of arrows
in 20-25# range and see what they do. I also like the advice to aim
from the knuckle of the bow hand. That sounds reasonable, and worth a
try. I would like to think I can use the "instinctive" method, but I
may fall in that "old dog-new trick" category. I am a Marine, and
have 12 expert marksmanship awards in both rifle and pistol and
several match awards as well, and have become quite dependant on my
sight picture. Clear sight tip in a fuzzy rear sight aperature
centered on a fuzzy target will get the bull every time. I guess I am
looking for an aiming method that is as close to this as possible. I
think I can learn to use the knuckle aimpoint well enough, more like
the bead front site on a shotgun. Thank you all for the advice.

Bone nocks, wood nocks, horn nocks, and any other documentable
natural nock material are all permitted in the period division, but
self nocks would save me a bit of money and I am thinking would be
closer to my skill level right now. Are there sources who sell nocks
made of natural material?

Thank you again,
James

--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Kinjal of Moravia"
<gusarimagic@r...> wrote:
> --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Eric & Mary Ward <ecward@s...>
> wrote:
> > James-
>
> Are not 'bone nocks' legal as traditional and avoids the splitting
> problem?
>
> Kinjal
> >
> > >. Assuming I cut the self nocks perpendicular to
> > >the grain, will I experience a problem with nock damage with this
> > >draw weight?
> >
> > Typically not for while, but all self-nock deteriorate over time.
> >
> >
> > >  I am using 5/16 shafts. I would also appreciate any
> > >guidance on spine weight, though I know this is a very personal
> > >thing, dependant on many factors. Is there a general rule of
thumb
> > >regarding spine weight when shooting a longbow?
> >
> >
> >
> > Typically, again, arrows used with a true longbow with no cut out
> > shelf should be underspined to allow for enough arrow flex to
> allow
> > archers paradox to occur.  So, with a 30# draw weight, an arrow
> spine
> > of 25# or even 20# might be appropriate.  However, only your
> > experience will tell you what works best for you.
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >  Assuming there will be some drop at
> > >longer ranges, is it best to adjust the aiming point at different
> > >ranges
> >
> >
> > Yes.  And yes, at 40 yds, you will experience a significant drop,
> say
> > 3 to 4 ft, depending on arrow velocity leaving your bow.
> >
> >
> > >there are plenty of "sight pin" things on the market
> >
> > These are illegal for SCA shooting
> >
> > >
> > >Thank you for indulging me,
> > >James ap Llywelyn
> >
> > James- where are you from?  Let's get you in contact with you
> local
> > archery captain, who will cheerfully answer what ever other
> questions
> > you might have.
> >
> > 	 YIS,
> > 		 Lord Owen ap Howell

Yes, this is a longbow without any shelf at all. In fact, it came in
the mail as naked oak, tillered and shaved but with nothing on the
stick minus the linen backing. I put a coat of poly on it, and plan
to put a soft doeskin wrap around the handle for comfort and shoot
off the hand. I will take your advice, and try 25# spines, and cut my
own nocks. Also, as to draw length, I have just a tick over a 28 inch
draw myself. Im a short fellow. Works out well for combat archery, as
I am at my full natural draw with 28inch draw arrows.
James



--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Nest verch Tangwistel
<eastarch@y...> wrote:
> Greetings James,
>
> I shot a 40 pound longbow for years with self nocks, and I never
had a
> problem with them splitting. I started out wrapping them, but them
later
> got lazy and didn't even do that. Just cut them out and then shot
them. As
> a rule of thumb I always started with an arrow apine which was 5
pounds
> lighter than the draw weight at my draw length. Don't forget if the
bow is
> 30 pounds at 28 inches and you are drawing 30 inches the poundage
will be
> higher. I always figure about 3 pounds per inch. This is a longbow
without
> an arrow shelf, right?
>
> Someone else already talked about the way I aim, so I will leave it
at
> that.
>
> Nest

I am in Atlantia, the D.C. area, and attend sunday archery practice
at the park in rock creek. I agree with your assessment of an arrow's
life expectancy, and actually dont mind making them to break them. I
have fletched quite a few now with the other archers of my house,
including some swell 18inch tiny things for my son's 8# hickory
longbow. His has an arrow shelf, made special to help keep the arrow
in it, just to give him a little bit of help. He fancies himself
the "Scorpion King" in the climactic final battle with every shot,
and often stops shooting entirely if he hits his mark to brag and
dance. "Look at how good that shot was, man, I am a great archer!"

I have a dozen arrows half fletched, I just need to remember what I
did with the darn bag of barred feathers now!
James


--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Frederick Fenters <padraig@c...>
wrote:
> I agree with what my brothers have already stated.  I would suggest
that
> before you go for the self-nocked arrows, you spend a little bit of
time
> with modern nocked shafts, just so there is not so great an
investment
> in time and money.  This allows you to experiment a bit more before
> making final decisions on your "permanent" shafting.  Why the
quotes?
> An arrow's purpose in this universe is to fly and die - either by
> hitting the target too many times, missing and becoming lost, or
being
> shot by another arrow.
>
> I applaud your decision to join our sport and to do so with period
style
> equipment.  Let us know where you are located (SCA and Mundane is
nice),
> so we  can help you hook up with people local to you.
>
> Go for the Gold!
>
> Padraig MacRaighne