Hi Chip,
I was just browsing the P40 page and discovered the new message board
(2005?-I haven't been paying attention!) feature and promptly joined.
I hauled Endeavor this fall and pulled the stick. My plans are to replace
the cap and intermediate shrouds and the chain plates; I've read your
article and the process looks straight forward. My concern is about hard
spots for the intermediate 1x19 wire as it passes thru the lower spreader
tips. I looked at your spreader end changes and also Ray's spreader tip
changes. Any thoughts about design changes/improvements?
Also, did you increase the width of the cap shroud chain plate to
accommodate two turnbuckle pins vs. the OEM single turnbuckle pin. Also
what specs did you use to modify the chain plate pin locations? E.g., the
distances from the center of the pin holes to the top and sides of the chain
plate.
On your photos of the new intermediates and cap shrouds, I noticed that you
installed toggles on the bottom and on the top of the turnbuckles. Is it
necessary to double-up on the toggles?
I will try to post this message on http://www.pearson40.org/forums in hopes
that others might have some ideas (for those of you with Hull #s greater
that 59+/-, you already have double intermediate and cap shrouds. Earlier
P40 models have a single turnbuckle and wire that connects to a splitter at
the lower spreaders. The separate intermediate and cap shroud wires emanate
from the splitter and run to their respective mast tangs.)
If anyone is interested in joining me in this project, please let me know.
We might be able to save some $ by ordering parts and spreader tip/chain
plate modifications in bulk. I priced the cost of the 5/16 wire, 4 swages,
4 turnbuckles, toggles, and 4 StaLoks at $950. I haven't priced the
spreader tip modification and new chain plate stock as yet. Chip/Ray...any
ideas re: these costs?
From: chiplawson@... [mailto:chiplawson@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2006 11:42 AM
To: rdowall@...
Subject: Welcome to Pearson 40 Owners Forum
Welcome to WowBB Forums.
Please click on the following URL to activate your account:
http://www.pearson40.org/forums/login.php?user_id=25&key=62c34765&activate=1
Alternatively, you can copy & paste the URL in the address line of your
browser, and press Enter.
Welcome to the group. I imagine that the
Canary Islands are starting to get crowded with cruisers getting ready to sail
the annual passage to the Caribbean. Please
let us know if we can be helpful.
Best regards,
Dick Dowall
s/v/ Endeavor Hull # 55
From:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of paulo garcia gil Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006
1:50 PM To:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] New member
from Canary Islands(SPAIN)
DEAR FRIENDS,........JUST TO LET YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A NEW MEMBER
FROM CANARYISLANDS(SPAIN).
I´M VERY HAPPY TO JOIN YOUR GROUP AND HAVE YOUR SUPPORT .SEE YOU SOON.
PAULO GARCIA
S/V "ALLAY"
LLama Gratis a cualquier PC del Mundo.
Llamadas a fijos y móviles desde 1 céntimo por minuto. http://es.voice.yahoo.com
Just in case anyone wants another one, I am selling "the hours between" after owning and enjoying her for 14 years. She is hull #48 and is very much as built (no modifications) and in good condition. I can be reached on my cell (860) 634-0334 most of the time. Thanks to the group for a couple of years of help and wisdom.
Just in case anyone wants another one, I am selling "the hours
between" after owning and enjoying her for 14 years. She is hull #48
and is very much as built (no modifications) and in good condition.
I can be reached on my cell (860) 634-0334 most of the time. Thanks to
the group for a couple of years of help and wisdom.
Chips
method matches mine to some extent. I drain the engine from the heat
exchanger every 2 years, including the idea of opening the cap on the exhaust
manifold part-way through the process. I never bother with the water
heater though, deciding to do the system every 2 years as a make-up for the
problem of draining the system entirely. I usually drain something like a
couple of gallons or more this way. I have heard that draining the water
heater can lead to an air block in the system that can be hard to get out,
another reason I opt for the cheater method. This happened once to Carpe
Diem. I also add some water pump/anti-corrosion additive with distilled
water/antifreeze to the system. Seems to work well, I never notice any
discoloration.
Bob
Fortuna
Hull 18
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Chip Lawson Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006
12:26 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Pearson40] Coolant
Change
Jerry
I have done it a couple of times and never
gotten it “right”. I end up with the antifreeze in the bilge
every time. So I have just resigned myself to have a small hand pump and a
bucket and to just pump out the bilge into the bucket (for shore side disposal)
when I get it emptied.
It is difficult to get all the coolant out
thanks to the hot water tank. I came to the conclusion that it is best to get
as much out as possible by opening the drain on the heat exchanger on the back
of the engine and opening the cap on the expansion tank. Then, open the cap on
the exhaust manifold to let more coolant out. Once that is done, replace
the two pressure caps and hook up a garden hose to one of the hoses going to
the water heater and flush it out. Once the water runs clear, pump the bilge
into a bucket (for shore side disposal) and then you can continue to flush for
a while and pump the water overboard. The best way to flush is to first remove
the thermostat so water will flow through the entire system. That way there is
no impediment to the full flow.
Refilling is easy. Put all the plugs back
in and put the cap on the exhaust manifold on and then fill through the
expansion tank. Pour antifreeze mix in until the tank is full. Then run the
engine and as it warms up, the level in the tank will go down as air comes out
and you just add more antifreeze until it doesn’t go down any more.
Let me know if you have questions.
Chip
From:
Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hootjw@... Sent:Monday, July
31, 20068:57 PM To: pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] Coolant Change
I'm not sure if this is too trivial, but
can someone give me detailed instructions on how you change your coolant?
Believe it or not, I've not done it on Rosebud (#26) and am sure it is well
past time. I would also change the thermostat at the same time.
What I need to know is which drain plugs to open and how to catch the
mess. Then how to fill it and ensure no air locks occur.
Hopefully, this is a very easy task, I just haven't done it and thought I would
ask the experts. Hopefully this email will get to the proper experts.
I have done it a couple of times and never
gotten it “right”. I end up with the antifreeze in the bilge
every time. So I have just resigned myself to have a small hand pump and a
bucket and to just pump out the bilge into the bucket (for shore side disposal)
when I get it emptied.
It is difficult to get all the coolant out
thanks to the hot water tank. I came to the conclusion that it is best to get
as much out as possible by opening the drain on the heat exchanger on the back
of the engine and opening the cap on the expansion tank. Then, open the cap on
the exhaust manifold to let more coolant out. Once that is done, replace
the two pressure caps and hook up a garden hose to one of the hoses going to
the water heater and flush it out. Once the water runs clear, pump the bilge
into a bucket (for shore side disposal) and then you can continue to flush for
a while and pump the water overboard. The best way to flush is to first remove
the thermostat so water will flow through the entire system. That way there is
no impediment to the full flow.
Refilling is easy. Put all the plugs back
in and put the cap on the exhaust manifold on and then fill through the
expansion tank. Pour antifreeze mix in until the tank is full. Then run the
engine and as it warms up, the level in the tank will go down as air comes out
and you just add more antifreeze until it doesn’t go down any more.
Let me know if you have questions.
Chip
From:
Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hootjw@... Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 8:57
PM To: pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] Coolant
Change
I'm not sure if this is too trivial, but
can someone give me detailed instructions on how you change your coolant?
Believe it or not, I've not done it on Rosebud (#26) and am sure it is well
past time. I would also change the thermostat at the same time.
What I need to know is which drain plugs to open and how to catch the
mess. Then how to fill it and ensure no air locks occur.
Hopefully, this is a very easy task, I just haven't done it and thought I would
ask the experts. Hopefully this email will get to the proper experts.
I'm not sure if this is too trivial, but can someone give me detailed instructions on how you change your coolant? Believe it or not, I've not done it on Rosebud (#26) and am sure it is well past time. I would also change the thermostat at the same time. What I need to know is which drain plugs to open and how to catch the mess. Then how to fill it and ensure no air locks occur. Hopefully, this is a very easy task, I just haven't done it and thought I would ask the experts. Hopefully this email will get to the proper experts.
I recently installed a BW 71c transmission
with remote oil cooler using your helpful advice, particularly about the two
3.5 inch studs for the bottom bolts and shorting the jack shaft by about 1 “.
I also replaced the v-drive wobbler bearing. The prop I am using is a
Flex-o-Fold 18” dia x 13” pitch. It really works well…I
actually have control in reverse and a folding function that really avoids
lobster pot warps (the prop looks like a squid when folded).
I have a Max Prop two blade prop for sale
if anyone is interested.
Thank you for your response about the emergency tiller. However, the previous owner saw my post and called to tell me where he had stashed the original emergency tiller.
Greg
Denny Thompson <captain@...> wrote:
Are you looking for an emergency tiller? If so I have one you can have for the shipping cost.
Are you looking for an emergency tiller? If so I have one you can have for
the shipping cost.
Please respond to saltydog@...
Thanks
Denny Thompson
Dream Catcher Hull #6
-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of gna543
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 11:49 AM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Pearson40] Circuit Breaker Panel
Hello All-
Looking for a 12v circuit panel. Anyone have one they want to get rid
of.
Greg Abbott
"Kazoo"
Yahoo! Groups Links
Greg: I have the aft wheel as well and the tiller that Chip has will not
work - unless you remove the pedestal. The tiller for our model has an
offset in it so it will wrap around the pedestal. It works, but I wouldn’t
want to spend a lot of time using it as it is a bit awkward. I could
never find one and had one made by a local welder. Hope this helps.
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Gregory Abbott Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006
7:10 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Pearson40] Emergency
tiller
Chip-
I have an aft wheel. Will the stainless emergency
tiller fit?
Greg
Chip Lawson
<chiplawson@...> wrote:
Greg
Denny Thompson and I had
stainless steel emergency tillers built a couple of years ago. I can get you a
quote on one if you would like. I may have the old aluminum emergency
tiller laying around and if I can find it, you can have it for the cost of
shipping but I am not sure I still have it. Denny may still have his.
Just as an FYI, Denny and I built the new stainless tillers because we
don’t believe the aluminum socket on the original tiller is strong enough
plus the shape is so strange that it would be nearly impossible to use..
We built the new stainless tillers so that are real tillers. They angle up out
of the deck plate and stop about 2” shy of the wheel. The forward
end of the tiller points right at the center of the wheel hub. I have used it
several times when I moved the boat with the steering cables disconnected and
it works beautifully. Here is a picture of it standing against the front door:
From:
Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543 Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006
11:38 AM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] Emergency
tiller
Hello
all- Does anyone have an emergency tiller? I'd like to
get one. Does anyone have a P-40 with a tiller instead of a
wheel? G. Abbott (Kazoo)
Yahoo!
Mail Use
Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
I have an aft wheel. Will the stainless emergency tiller fit?
Greg
Chip Lawson <chiplawson@...> wrote:
Greg
Denny Thompson and I had stainless steel emergency tillers built a couple of years ago. I can get you a quote on one if you would like. I may have the old aluminum emergency tiller laying around and if I can find it, you can have it for the cost of shipping but I am not sure I still have it. Denny may still have his. Just as an FYI, Denny and I built the new stainless tillers because we don’t believe the aluminum socket on the original tiller is strong enough plus the shape is so strange that it would be nearly impossible to use.. We built the
new stainless tillers so that are real tillers. They angle up out of the deck plate and stop about 2” shy of the wheel. The forward end of the tiller points right at the center of the wheel hub. I have used it several times when I moved the boat with the steering cables disconnected and it works beautifully. Here is a picture of it standing against the front door:
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543 Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 11:38 AM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] Emergency
tiller
Hello all- Does anyone have an emergency tiller? I'd like to get one. Does anyone have a P-40 with a tiller instead of a wheel? G. Abbott (Kazoo)
Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
Denny Thompson and I had stainless steel
emergency tillers built a couple of years ago. I can get you a quote on one if
you would like. I may have the old aluminum emergency tiller laying
around and if I can find it, you can have it for the cost of shipping but I am
not sure I still have it. Denny may still have his. Just as an FYI,
Denny and I built the new stainless tillers because we don’t believe the
aluminum socket on the original tiller is strong enough plus the shape is so
strange that it would be nearly impossible to use.. We built the new
stainless tillers so that are real tillers. They angle up out of the deck plate
and stop about 2” shy of the wheel. The forward end of the tiller
points right at the center of the wheel hub. I have used it several times when
I moved the boat with the steering cables disconnected and it works
beautifully. Here is a picture of it standing against the front door:
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of gna543 Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006
11:38 AM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] Emergency
tiller
Hello all- Does anyone have an emergency tiller? I'd like to
get one. Does anyone have a P-40 with a tiller instead of a
wheel? G. Abbott (Kazoo)
I learned this from the “master P40
mechanic”, Ray Crowdis.
First of all, you should not need to
remove any of the engine “accessories” like alternator or heat
exchanger, etc. Just disconnect everything (wiring, instrument wiring, remote
oil filter, plumbing, fuel lines, exhaust, etc). And disconnect the short shaft
from the transmission to the V-drive.
Next, and this is the hardest and
bloodiest part of the whole process, you need to remove the 8 nuts and bolts
which hold the 4 engine mounts in place. This method leaves the engine mounts
attached to the engine. Getting to all the nuts under the engine bed
“rails” is simply a bitch. The glass work is sharp and the access
is difficult (understatement!). But it works well once the bolts are out.
Once the bolts are out, hang a come-along from
a 2x4 or 4x4 which is set across the hatch opening. Tie a rope or webbing
bridle across the brackets for the rear engine mounts to make a bridle and then
attach the lifting device. Lift the back end of the engine high enough to
slide the “skid” under the aft motor mounts. Once the skid is
positioned under the aft mounts, lower the engine onto the skid. Next
trick is to prevent the skid from sliding as you pull the engine out. I let
the skid slide up against the sink cabinetry but next time I would actually drill
holes down through the skid and drop bolts in which would be up against the aft
edge of the fiberglass floor pan and use that to hold the skid in place.
Once the skid is set, take the same
webbing bridle attached to the engine mount brackets and attach the come-along.
The forward end of the come-along is attached to a rope around the mast or a
2x4 which bridges the opening in the bulkhead forward of the galley and nav
station. Slowly pull the engine out of the compartment. Once the forward
engine mounts reach the skid, you will need to lift the engine again and get
the forward mounts on top of the skid. I used the come-along for that
lift and allowed it to suspend the forward end of the engine and then used a
boom vang block and tackle to pull the engine a bit further forward until the forward
motor mounts were over the skid. Then you lower the forward end of the engine
onto the skid and pull the engine far enough back to clear the cabinetry.
I made my skid out of 2x4’s as you
can see in the picture below. 2x6’s were used as cross braces below the
2x4’s. Afraid I don’t remember the overall length. It was around 4
feet but don’t remember exactly.
One very important point. As you are
pulling the engine aft, have a second person standing by with a stout pole, or
pipe or stick to make sure that the engine comes straight back. There is
a tendency for the engine to want to cock as it slides aft and if it does, one
of the forward engine mount s may slide off the bed. I had this happen and
while it is not a crisis, getting it back up on the bed is a nightmare. Try to
avoid that.
Last, as you can see from the pics below,
I did this with the transmission off. I believe the process will work the same
with the transmission connected but I am not 100% sure.
Do you have any specific questions I did
not cover?
Chip
From:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bstriete Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006
1:00 PM To:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] W-40 engine
removal and installation
I am interested in the best
procedure to remove the old Westerbeke W-40 engine including the use of 'skids' on the cabin
sole, mentioned previously, and the dimensions for those.
Also, how does one get the engine back in the engine bay and onto the motor
mounting studs?
I am interested in the best procedure to remove the old Westerbeke W-40
engine including the use of 'skids' on the cabin sole, mentioned
previously, and the dimensions for those. Also, how does one get the
engine back in the engine bay and onto the motor mounting studs?
Thanks. I just looked at the Westerbeke
brochure on the P40 site. All the starters W-30, W-40, W-50, W-58 stick
out the back of the engine. This was news to me and I assumed that this
is a odd configuration. What are you asking for the W-40?
Dick
Richard L. Dowall
508.904.6408
RDowall@...
From: Chip Lawson
[mailto:chiplawson@...] Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006
1:12 PM To: 'Richard Dowall' Subject: RE: Paragon to Borg
Warner conversion
Wow. Never saw that before. No
strokes of brilliance I can think of.
If you want, you can buy my old W40
And keep one for parts …
:<)
Seriously, I don’t know what to say.
Have you talked to Trans Atlantic Diesel in VA? They are 4-107 experts http://www.tadiesels.com/
Chip
From: Richard Dowall
[mailto:rdowall@...] Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006
11:58 AM To: 'Chip
Lawson' Subject: FW: Paragon to Borg
Warner conversion
Hi Chip,
Any thoughts?
Dick
Richard L. Dowall
508.904.6408
RDowall@...
From: Richard Dowall
[mailto:rdowall@...] Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006
12:22 PM To: 'Pearson40@yahoogroups.com' Subject: Paragon to Borg Warner
conversion
Hello all,
I am in the process of converting my Paragon to a BW 71c.
I’ve reviewed Ray Crowdis’s description and have talked with
Denny Thompson about his installation. Here is my question: Has anyone
converted to a BW 71c that has the same bell housing arrangement as Endeavor
(photo attached)? My starter motor protrudes from the rear end of the
block and sits next to the transmission. I’ve discovered that this
is a later model 4-107 bell housing and the installation of the BW looks tight,
especially with the oil cooler hoses. The standard location of the
starter motor is under the lift pump, lying along side the block and
doesn’t interfere with the transmission. There are several photos
on the P40 web site that show the typical starter location that is out of the
way of the trans.
I am in the process of converting my Paragon to a BW 71c. I’ve
reviewed Ray Crowdis’s description and have talked with Denny Thompson
about his installation. Here is my question: Has anyone converted
to a BW 71c that has the same bell housing arrangement as Endeavor (photo
attached)? My starter motor protrudes from the rear end of the block and
sits next to the transmission. I’ve discovered that this is a later
model 4-107 bell housing and the installation of the BW looks tight, especially
with the oil cooler hoses. The standard location of the starter motor is
under the lift pump, lying along side the block and doesn’t interfere
with the transmission. There are several photos on the P40 web site that
show the typical starter location that is out of the way of the trans.
I had the same problem on "Glory" about 4 years ago and solved the problem exactly as did Henry and it has worked extremely well. We took off about 6 inches of the mast, had a new step made, and have had no problems whatsoever.
Good luck. Felix
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Gregory Abbott Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 8:02 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Pearson40] mast step corrosion
Henry-
Thank you for your response. Some pictures will be greatly appreciated.
Greg: The spar manufacturer is no longer in business. I just completed what you are planning. We cut the mast off above the corrosion and then built up the mast step with a block of starboard like material to make up the lost mast. The bolts had to be replaced as well. I also had a new step made as mine was as corroded as the mast. The whole thing is a neat and a simple solution. If you want, I will take some photos of the new step and email them to you.
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543 Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 6:54 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] mast step corriosion
Hello All- Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!. Perhaps a smaller section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.
Henry’s recommendation will work
fine. You can use UHMW as the spacer under the step.
Another option is to actually build a “tall”
mast step. You can use solid aluminum or a weld-ment. So if you cut off 2”
of mast section you build a 2” tall step.
Gene is right, the spar manufacturer,
Sound Spar, is gone but Rig Rite bought their inventory and has one complete
P-40 spar and they may have some of the original bare extrusion and they may
have some drops you could buy if you prefer to build up the spar base. The link
to Rig Rite is on the P-40 web site: http://www.pearson40.org/valuable_links.htm
FYI, you have one of the best marine fabrication
shops around right near the boat in Gulfport,
FL. Go see Derek at JTR
JTR Enterprises
Address:
1510 51st St
S, Gulfport,
FL33707
Phone:
(727) 321-6321
He has built all of the custom parts for
my boat. The pictures below are of the new aluminum step he built for
me. Note that I had the step built with attachment points for a tie-down
rod both forward and aft. When you get the new step, have both tie-down points
installed. You may not need them both immediately but it is easy and cheap to
do at that point. I added an aft tie-rod and am convinced it made a significant
improvement in deck movement. But I have all my halyards run aft to the cockpit
and the blocks at the base of the mast put a huge upward force on the deck aft
of the mast.
From:
Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543 Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005
6:54 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] mast step
corriosion
Hello All- Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14) is about to be
re-launched after a cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty
salon I noticed a bit of corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the
original spar manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut
off a few inches and sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct
section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to
hear them. The corrosion is not bad now but left unattended,
ugh!. Perhaps a smaller section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded.
Either way if I can find the original section measurements its a pretty
easy fix.
Greg: The spar manufacturer is no longer in business. I just completed what you are planning. We cut the mast off above the corrosion and then built up the mast step with a block of starboard like material to make up the lost mast. The bolts had to be replaced as well. I also had a new step made as mine was as corroded as the mast. The whole thing is a neat and a simple solution. If you want, I will take some photos of the new step and email them to you.
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543 Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 6:54 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] mast step corriosion
Hello All- Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!.
Perhaps a smaller section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.
Please take some pictures and send them to
me to post on the site.
Chip
From:
Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hpitts Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005
7:42 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Pearson40] mast step
corrosion
Greg: The spar manufacturer is no longer
in business. I just completed what you are planning. We cut the mast off above
the corrosion and then built up the mast step with a block of starboard like
material to make up the lost mast. The bolts had to be replaced as well.
I also had a new step made as mine was as corroded as the mast. The whole
thing is a neat and a simple solution. If you want, I will take some photos of
the new step and email them to you.
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of gna543 Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005
6:54 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] mast step
corriosion
Hello All- Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14) is about to be
re-launched after a cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty
salon I noticed a bit of corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the
original spar manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut
off a few inches and sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct
section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to
hear them. The corrosion is not bad now but left unattended,
ugh!. Perhaps a smaller section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded.
Either way if I can find the original section measurements its a pretty
easy fix.
Greg: The spar manufacturer is no longer
in business. I just completed what you are planning. We cut the mast off above
the corrosion and then built up the mast step with a block of starboard like
material to make up the lost mast. The bolts had to be replaced as well. I
also had a new step made as mine was as corroded as the mast. The whole thing
is a neat and a simple solution. If you want, I will take some photos of the
new step and email them to you.
-----Original Message----- From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of gna543 Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005
6:54 PM To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Pearson40] mast step
corriosion
Hello All- Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14)
is about to be re-launched after a cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon
I noticed a bit of corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the
original spar manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut
off a few inches and sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct
section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to
hear them. The corrosion is not bad now but left unattended,
ugh!. Perhaps a smaller section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded.
Either way if I can find the original section measurements its a pretty easy
fix.
my research shows Sound spar there is a link for it i think its the "Rig Rite" one that ya want
Gene
gna543 <gna543@...> wrote:
Hello All- Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!. Perhaps a smaller section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.
Hello All-
Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit" Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a
cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of
corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar
manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and
sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.
If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The
corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!. Perhaps a smaller
section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find
the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.
Greg Abbott
Paul,
I use a hand vacuum pump that I purchased at West Marine however it is
awkward (but isn't everything related to boat maintenance). Make sure that
you run the engine to warm the oil and that you work the suction tube down
as the oil extraction progresses. Hope this helps.
Chad
Pupfish 44
-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Richard Dowall
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 3:03 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Pearson40] Oil Change Question
Hi Paul,
In the past I used a small impeller pump attached to my battery-operated
drill. I attached the pump (input) to the dip stick tube and secured it
with a small hose clamp. The output hose is fed into a gallon jug. This
process was fast and got most of the oil out of the crankcase. When I
rebuilt my 4-107 and had the pan off the block, I could see that the dip
stick tube went to the bottom of the crank case sump and noted that it would
remove most of the oil.
I have since switched to a manual vacuum pump and find it much easier and I
get about the same amount of oil out of the engine. The reason I switched
methods is that the drill-mounted, pump output hose came loose and oil
sprayed all over the cabin sole and me!
By the way, my oil filter is remotely mounted (on the overhead of the engine
compartment) and is easy to change. I unscrew it and drop it into a Ziploc
bag.
I hope this helps.
Dick Dowall
s/v Endeavor
-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of yeoldeschoolp40
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 8:18 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Pearson40] Oil Change Question
Hey everyone
I have been having some issues changing the oil in my original
westerbeke 40. I have used eletric pumps, hand pumps, and I can only
get a quart out at most. I always run the pump tube down the dipstick
shaft. I have tried everything. Does anyone have any ideas for me?
Thank You in advance
Sincerely,
Paul Morrissey
Hull 37
Yahoo! Groups Links
Yahoo! Groups Links
We are doing well and have moved to Wrentham, MA from Sherborn, MA…closer
to the boat and somewhat downsized in our housing department. I called Chip a
moment ago and he received your email. You should have a response
shortly. (chiplawson@...)
is a valid address.
I haven’t seen you since the
Annapolis Boat Show two years ago. As I recall, John and Barbara on sv
Constance were just heading South for the Western
Caribbean and the Red Sox had just lost to the Yankees in the 7th
game of the American League playoffs. Time flys. John and Barbara
had a great trip to Venezuela
via Mexico, Belize, Honduras,
Guatemala, and Panama.
And the Sox beat the Yankees in ’04 and won the Series!
Rumor has it that you bought a
trawler. What are you going to do about your Pearson 40 tattoo? J
I hope we can make it to the Annapolis boat show and
catch up with you.
Best regards,
Dick
Richard L. Dowall
Management Consulting Services
75 Summer Street
Wrentham, MA02093USA
508.904.6408
RDowall@...
From: Fred Christensen
[mailto:fwchristensen@...] Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 7:31
PM To: rdowall@... Subject: Where's Chip ????
Hi, Dick --
Hope you are well and enjoying life - wherever you are,
these days.
I have been trying to get in touch with Chip (off the net),
but I may have a bad e-mail address (chiplawson@...).
He usually responds in about ten minutes, but I haven't heard back in nearly
two weeks.
Do you have a current e-mail address for the Admiral?
Hi Paul,
In the past I used a small impeller pump attached to my battery-operated
drill. I attached the pump (input) to the dip stick tube and secured it
with a small hose clamp. The output hose is fed into a gallon jug. This
process was fast and got most of the oil out of the crankcase. When I
rebuilt my 4-107 and had the pan off the block, I could see that the dip
stick tube went to the bottom of the crank case sump and noted that it would
remove most of the oil.
I have since switched to a manual vacuum pump and find it much easier and I
get about the same amount of oil out of the engine. The reason I switched
methods is that the drill-mounted, pump output hose came loose and oil
sprayed all over the cabin sole and me!
By the way, my oil filter is remotely mounted (on the overhead of the engine
compartment) and is easy to change. I unscrew it and drop it into a Ziploc
bag.
I hope this helps.
Dick Dowall
s/v Endeavor
-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of yeoldeschoolp40
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 8:18 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Pearson40] Oil Change Question
Hey everyone
I have been having some issues changing the oil in my original
westerbeke 40. I have used eletric pumps, hand pumps, and I can only
get a quart out at most. I always run the pump tube down the dipstick
shaft. I have tried everything. Does anyone have any ideas for me?
Thank You in advance
Sincerely,
Paul Morrissey
Hull 37
Yahoo! Groups Links