Hola Paulo,

Welcome to the group.  I imagine that the Canary Islands are starting to get crowded with cruisers getting ready to sail the annual passage to the Caribbean.  Please let us know if we can be helpful. 

Best regards,

Dick Dowall

s/v/ Endeavor  Hull # 55

Chips method matches mine to some extent.  I drain the engine from the heat exchanger every 2 years, including the idea of opening the cap on the exhaust manifold part-way through the process.  I never bother with the water heater though, deciding to do the system every 2 years as a make-up for the problem of draining the system entirely.  I usually drain something like a couple of gallons or more this way.  I have heard that draining the water heater can lead to an air block in the system that can be hard to get out, another reason I opt for the cheater method.  This happened once to Carpe Diem.  I also add some water pump/anti-corrosion additive with distilled water/antifreeze to the system.  Seems to work well, I never notice any discoloration. 

Bob

Fortuna

Hull 18

-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chip Lawson
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 12:26 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Pearson40] Coolant Change

Jerry

I have done it a couple of times and never gotten it “right”.  I end up with the antifreeze in the bilge every time. So I have just resigned myself to have a small hand pump and a bucket and to just pump out the bilge into the bucket (for shore side disposal) when I get it emptied.

It is difficult to get all the coolant out thanks to the hot water tank. I came to the conclusion that it is best to get as much out as possible by opening the drain on the heat exchanger on the back of the engine and opening the cap on the expansion tank. Then, open the cap on the exhaust manifold to let more coolant out.  Once that is done, replace the two pressure caps and hook up a garden hose to one of the hoses going to the water heater and flush it out. Once the water runs clear, pump the bilge into a bucket (for shore side disposal) and then you can continue to flush for a while and pump the water overboard. The best way to flush is to first remove the thermostat so water will flow through the entire system. That way there is no impediment to the full flow.

Refilling is easy. Put all the plugs back in and put the cap on the exhaust manifold on and then fill through the expansion tank. Pour antifreeze mix in until the tank is full. Then run the engine and as it warms up, the level in the tank will go down as air comes out and you just add more antifreeze until it doesn’t go down any more.

Let me know if you have questions.

Chip

Hi Denny and Ray,

I recently installed a BW 71c transmission with remote oil cooler using your helpful advice, particularly about the two 3.5 inch studs for the bottom bolts and shorting the jack shaft by about 1 “.  I also replaced the v-drive wobbler bearing.  The prop I am using is a Flex-o-Fold 18” dia x 13” pitch.  It really works well…I actually have control in reverse and a folding function that really avoids lobster pot warps (the prop looks like a squid when folded).  

I have a Max Prop two blade prop for sale if anyone is interested.

I’ll send you some photos of the installation.

Dick Dowall

Endeavor

Greg: I have the aft wheel as well and the tiller that Chip has will not work  - unless you remove the pedestal. The tiller for our model has an offset in it so it will wrap around the pedestal. It works, but I wouldn’t want to spend  a lot of time using it as it is a bit awkward. I could never find one and had one made by a local welder. Hope this helps.

Henry

-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gregory Abbott
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 7:10 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Pearson40] Emergency tiller

Greg

 

Denny Thompson and I had stainless steel emergency tillers built a couple of years ago. I can get you a quote on one if you would like.  I may have the old aluminum emergency tiller laying around and if I can find it, you can have it for the cost of shipping but I am not sure I still have it.  Denny may still have his.  Just as an FYI, Denny and I built the new stainless tillers because we don’t believe the aluminum socket on the original tiller is strong enough plus the shape is so strange that it would be nearly impossible to use..  We built the new stainless tillers so that are real tillers. They angle up out of the deck plate and stop about 2” shy of the wheel.  The forward end of the tiller points right at the center of the wheel hub. I have used it several times when I moved the boat with the steering cables disconnected and it works beautifully. Here is a picture of it standing against the front door:

 

 

 

---

From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 11:38 AM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Pearson40] Emergency tiller

 

Hello all-
Does anyone have an emergency tiller? I'd like to get one.
Does anyone have a P-40 with a tiller instead of a wheel?
G. Abbott (Kazoo)

Yahoo! Mail
Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.

Greg

Denny Thompson and I had stainless steel emergency tillers built a couple of years ago. I can get you a quote on one if you would like.  I may have the old aluminum emergency tiller laying around and if I can find it, you can have it for the cost of shipping but I am not sure I still have it.  Denny may still have his.  Just as an FYI, Denny and I built the new stainless tillers because we don’t believe the aluminum socket on the original tiller is strong enough plus the shape is so strange that it would be nearly impossible to use..  We built the new stainless tillers so that are real tillers. They angle up out of the deck plate and stop about 2” shy of the wheel.  The forward end of the tiller points right at the center of the wheel hub. I have used it several times when I moved the boat with the steering cables disconnected and it works beautifully. Here is a picture of it standing against the front door:

Hello all-
Does anyone have an emergency tiller? I'd like to get one.
Does anyone have a P-40 with a tiller instead of a wheel?
G. Abbott (Kazoo)

Bob

I learned this from the “master P40 mechanic”, Ray Crowdis.

First of all, you should not need to remove any of the engine “accessories” like alternator or heat exchanger, etc. Just disconnect everything (wiring, instrument wiring, remote oil filter, plumbing, fuel lines, exhaust, etc). And disconnect the short shaft from the transmission to the V-drive.

Next, and this is the hardest and bloodiest part of the whole process, you need to remove the 8 nuts and bolts which hold the 4 engine mounts in place. This method leaves the engine mounts attached to the engine. Getting to all the nuts under the engine bed “rails” is simply a bitch. The glass work is sharp and the access is difficult (understatement!). But it works well once the bolts are out.

Once the bolts are out, hang a come-along from a 2x4 or 4x4 which is set across the hatch opening. Tie a rope or webbing bridle across the brackets for the rear engine mounts to make a bridle and then attach the lifting device.  Lift the back end of the engine high enough to slide the “skid” under the aft motor mounts.  Once the skid is positioned under the aft mounts, lower the engine onto the skid.  Next trick is to prevent the skid from sliding as you pull the engine out.  I let the skid slide up against the sink cabinetry but next time I would actually drill holes down through the skid and drop bolts in which would be up against the aft edge of the fiberglass floor pan and use that to hold the skid in place.

Once the skid is set, take the same webbing bridle attached to the engine mount brackets and attach the come-along.  The forward end of the come-along is attached to a rope around the mast or a 2x4 which bridges the opening in the bulkhead forward of the galley and nav station. Slowly pull the engine out of the compartment.  Once the forward engine mounts reach the skid, you will need to lift the engine again and get the forward mounts on top of the skid.  I used the come-along for that lift and allowed it to suspend the forward end of the engine and then used a boom vang block and tackle to pull the engine a bit further forward until the forward motor mounts were over the skid. Then you lower the forward end of the engine onto the skid and pull the engine far enough back to clear the cabinetry.

I made my skid out of 2x4’s as you can see in the picture below. 2x6’s were used as cross braces below the 2x4’s. Afraid I don’t remember the overall length. It was around 4 feet but don’t remember exactly.

One very important point.  As you are pulling the engine aft, have a second person standing by with a stout pole, or pipe or stick to make sure that the engine comes straight back.  There is a tendency for the engine to want to cock as it slides aft and if it does, one of the forward engine mount s may slide off the bed. I had this happen and while it is not a crisis, getting it back up on the bed is a nightmare. Try to avoid that.

Last, as you can see from the pics below, I did this with the transmission off. I believe the process will work the same with the transmission connected but I am not 100% sure.

Do you have any specific questions I did not cover?

Chip

I am interested in the best procedure to remove the old Westerbeke W-40
engine including the use of 'skids' on the cabin sole, mentioned
previously, and the dimensions for those.  Also, how does one get the
engine back in the engine bay and onto the motor mounting studs?

Hi Chip,

Thanks.  I just looked at the Westerbeke brochure on the P40 site.  All the starters W-30, W-40, W-50, W-58 stick out the back of the engine.  This was news to me and I assumed that this is a odd configuration.  What are you asking for the W-40?

Dick

Wow.  Never saw that before. No strokes of brilliance I can think of.

If you want, you can buy my old W40

And keep one for parts …  :<)

Seriously, I don’t know what to say.  Have you talked to Trans Atlantic Diesel in VA?  They are 4-107 experts http://www.tadiesels.com/

Chip

Hi Chip,

Any thoughts?

Dick

Hello all,

I am in the process of converting my Paragon to a BW 71c.  I’ve reviewed Ray Crowdis’s description and have talked with Denny Thompson about his installation.  Here is my question:  Has anyone converted to a BW 71c that has the same bell housing arrangement as Endeavor (photo attached)?  My starter motor protrudes from the rear end of the block and sits next to the transmission.  I’ve discovered that this is a later model 4-107 bell housing and the installation of the BW looks tight, especially with the oil cooler hoses.  The standard location of the starter motor is under the lift pump, lying along side the block and doesn’t interfere with the transmission.  There are several photos on the P40 web site that show the typical starter location that is out of the way of the trans.

Thanks in advance,

Richard L. Dowall

508.904.6408

RDowall@...

Hello all,

I am in the process of converting my Paragon to a BW 71c.  I’ve reviewed Ray Crowdis’s description and have talked with Denny Thompson about his installation.  Here is my question:  Has anyone converted to a BW 71c that has the same bell housing arrangement as Endeavor (photo attached)?  My starter motor protrudes from the rear end of the block and sits next to the transmission.  I’ve discovered that this is a later model 4-107 bell housing and the installation of the BW looks tight, especially with the oil cooler hoses.  The standard location of the starter motor is under the lift pump, lying along side the block and doesn’t interfere with the transmission.  There are several photos on the P40 web site that show the typical starter location that is out of the way of the trans.

Thanks in advance,

Richard L. Dowall

508.904.6408

RDowall@...

Greg

Henry’s recommendation will work fine. You can use UHMW as the spacer under the step.

Another option is to actually build a “tall” mast step. You can use solid aluminum or a weld-ment. So if you cut off 2” of mast section you build a 2” tall step.

Gene is right, the spar manufacturer, Sound Spar, is gone but Rig Rite bought their inventory and has one complete P-40 spar and they may have some of the original bare extrusion and they may have some drops you could buy if you prefer to build up the spar base. The link to Rig Rite is on the P-40 web site: http://www.pearson40.org/valuable_links.htm

FYI, you have one of the best marine fabrication shops around right near the boat in Gulfport, FL. Go see Derek at JTR

JTR Enterprises

He has built all of the custom parts for my boat.  The pictures below are of the new aluminum step he built for me.  Note that I had the step built with attachment points for a tie-down rod both forward and aft. When you get the new step, have both tie-down points installed. You may not need them both immediately but it is easy and cheap to do at that point. I added an aft tie-rod and am convinced it made a significant improvement in deck movement. But I have all my halyards run aft to the cockpit and the blocks at the base of the mast put a huge upward force on the deck aft of the mast.

Hello All-
Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit"  Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a
cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of
corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar
manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and
sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.

If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The
corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!.  Perhaps a smaller
section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find
the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.

Greg Abbott

Henry

Please take some pictures and send them to me to post on the site.

Chip

Greg: The spar manufacturer is no longer in business. I just completed what you are planning. We cut the mast off above the corrosion and then built up the mast step with a block of starboard like material to make up the lost mast. The bolts had to be replaced as well.  I also had a new step made as mine was as corroded as the mast. The whole thing is a neat and a simple solution. If you want, I will take some photos of the new step and email them to you.

Regards,

Henry

“Tempest”  Hull #4

-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 6:54 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Pearson40] mast step corriosion

Hello All-
Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit"  Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a
cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of
corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar
manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and
sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.

If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The
corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!.  Perhaps a smaller
section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find
the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.

Greg Abbott

Greg: The spar manufacturer is no longer in business. I just completed what you are planning. We cut the mast off above the corrosion and then built up the mast step with a block of starboard like material to make up the lost mast. The bolts had to be replaced as well.  I also had a new step made as mine was as corroded as the mast. The whole thing is a neat and a simple solution. If you want, I will take some photos of the new step and email them to you.

Regards,

Henry

“Tempest”  Hull #4

-----Original Message-----
From: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Pearson40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gna543
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 6:54 PM
To: Pearson40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Pearson40] mast step corriosion

Hello All-
Kazoo (ex-"Bel Esprit"  Hull #14) is about to be re-launched after a
cosmetic re-do. During the trip to the beauty salon I noticed a bit of
corrosion at the mast step. Does anyone know the original spar
manufacturer. At the next haul out I want to cut off a few inches and
sleeve a new mast step if I can find the correct section.

If anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them. The
corrosion is not bad now but left unattended, ugh!.  Perhaps a smaller
section can be placed inside and epoxy bonded. Either way if I can find
the original section measurements its a pretty easy fix.

Greg Abbott

Hi Fred,

We are doing well and have moved to Wrentham, MA from Sherborn, MA…closer to the boat and somewhat downsized in our housing department. I called Chip a moment ago and he received your email.  You should have a response shortly.  (chiplawson@...) is a valid address.

(chiplawson@...

I haven’t seen you since the Annapolis Boat Show two years ago.  As I recall, John and Barbara on sv Constance were just heading South for the Western Caribbean and the Red Sox had just lost to the Yankees in the 7^th game of the American League playoffs.  Time flys.  John and Barbara had a great trip to Venezuela via Mexico, Belize, Honduras, Guatemala, and Panama.  And the Sox beat the Yankees in ’04 and won the Series!

Rumor has it that you bought a trawler.  What are you going to do about your Pearson 40 tattoo? J

I hope we can make it to the Annapolis boat show and catch up with you.

Best regards,

Dick