I have found that taking a Post-it note and taping it to the tympan
where the bottom edge of the paper ends holds the paper against the
cylinder without marring even very delicate papers. Just have the
gummed edge up and place a bit of tape on either side of the Post-
it. You have to replace it from time to time, but it works well with
just the right amount of hold and it releases easily. Hope this
helps.

cross posting



after reading the post late last week on Rob Roy Kelly's passing i did some
digging around on the 'net.

not sure if this is what the NYTimes has for an obit, but I received this
from Kelly's wife Mary Helen with permission to post it here.

if you would like to send a message to Mary Helen Kelly, you can email her
at robroykelly@...

best, m | interrobang

--

NEWS RELEASE


ROB ROY KELLY, MASTER TEACHER, 1925-2004

For information, call:   Mary Helen Kelly, 480-990-8411
                      Or Shaun Kelly, 480-948-0014, designlin.shaun@...

Roy Roy Kelly, 78, Professor Emeritus of Graphic Design at Arizona State
University died from cardio-pulmonary failure on January 23, at his home in
Tempe, Arizona. He had a long and distinguished career as a Graphic Design
educator and was instrumental in establishing professional Graphic Design
programs at The Minneapolis Institute of Art, The Kansas City Art Institute,
Carnegie-Mellon University in Pittsburgh, and Arizona State University,
Tempe.

Concurrent with teaching, Professor Kelly carried on a professional
practice, and had a lively interest in research and writing. While in
Minneapolis, he did design work for Walker Art Center and The Gutherie
Theatre. In Pittsburgh, he was staff designer at The Hunt Institute for
Botanical Documentation, and in Kansas City he directed development of a
city identity system and seal. Likewise, at Arizona State University he
supervised student work in developing the logo for the City of Tempe, and a
signage system for the Phoenix Children¹s Zoo.

He devoted thirteen years to the collection of American wood type and wrote
the definitive text on the subject, American Wood Types: 1828-1900,
published in 1969. Similarly, he collected American cast-iron trivets and
stands collaborating with The Shelburne Museum and fellow collector, James
Ellwood, to publish a 1990 comprehensive book. Professor Kelly had a
life-long interest in antiques.  He collected and documented over 1,500
kitchen tinware, cast-iron, ceramic, glass, wood and wire vessels and tools,
manufactured between 1870 and 1930. These artifacts were donated to The
Arizona Historical Society Museum in Tempe, as a study collection. Memorial
contributions would be welcome to support cataloging, photographing and
completing an educational website of The Kelly Kitchenware Collection.
Address checks to The Arizona Historical Society Museum, Note: Kelly
Kitchenware Collection, 1300 N. College Ave., Tempe, AZ 85281.  Professor
Kelly also donated his wood type for a study resource at the University of
Texas

In 2001, a website, titled Everything is a Work in Progress, was developed
to present Professor Kelly¹s collected writings on Graphic Design education.
This project was done by graduate students in conjunction with the donation
of Kelly¹s papers to Rochester Institute of Technology, where the
publication of a book is in progress.  Professor Kelly¹s association with
RIT began in 1974, when he was awarded a one-year appointment as The Kern
Institute Professor for Communications.  As a memorial to Professor Kelly,
contributions are being accepted for organization of these archival
materials, refinement of the website, and preparation of the book
manuscript.  Address checks to: The Rob Roy Kelly Legacy Fund, Development
Office, Rochester Institute of Technology, 116 Lomb Memorial Drive,
Rochester, NY 14623.

The achievements of which Professor Kelly was most proud were those of his
former students and colleagues whom he mentored.  Many of his students
studied at his Alma Mater, Yale University, in the Graphic Design program
where Mr. Kelly was one of its first graduates. Rob Roy Kelly attended the
University of Nebraska and received the Bachelor of Fine Arts degree from
The Minneapolis Institute of Art in 1951.  He earned a Master of Fine Arts
degree from Yale University in 1955. Later he was awarded an honorary Doctor
of Fine Arts from The Minneapolis Institute of Art.  In 1989, he was the
first recipient of the Master Teacher Award from the Graphic Design
Educators Association, and in 1983 the Minnesota Graphic Design Association
honored him with a Design for Society Award.  During World War II, he served
in the United States Marine Corp.

He is survived by his wife, Mary Helen Prine Kelly, and his former spouse
Cherry Barthel of Kansas City, who is the mother of his four surviving
children, three sons, Rob Roy B. Kelly of Mankato, MN, Denri Kelly and Troy
Kelly of  Kansas City, MO, and a daughter, Shaun Kelly, of Scottsdale, AZ.
His brother, Max Kelly, resides in Prescott Valley, AZ; and his son, a
nephew, Michael Kelly, lives in California.  A sister, Ruth Kelly, preceded
him in death. There are four grandchildren, Nathan Paul Kelly, son of Denri
Kelly, and Lauren Kelly, daughter of Troy Kelly.  The eldest son, Rob Roy B.
Kelly, is the father of grandson, R.J. Kelly, and granddaughter, Anne Kelly
(Busick), who is the mother of a great granddaughter, Mckayla.  Shaun Kelly
follows in the footsteps of her illustrious father.  Having graduated from
the Graphic Design program at Carnegie-Mellon University, she is a design
professional with the firm DesignLin Advertising of Scottsdale.

ah yes, neglected to mention:

i have added Kelly and Hern to the iCal calendar of printer¹s holidays i
have published. does someone have John¹s birth date? there was no info on
his memorial site.

any dates i have missed are happily added. lemme know.

You can subscribe to my calendar at:
    webcal://icalx.com/public/interrobang/Printing32Holidays.ics


To learn more about iCal or to download a copy, go to
http://www.apple.com/ical

--
get to work, m | interrobang





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello all,

I'm wondering if anyone has words reguarding boxcar vs metal backed
exposure times?

ie: three minutes for a metal plate is roughly X minutes with a boxcar...

I would think the boxcars are lower, but I dont really want to waste a
bunch finding out.

Thanks,

Chuck

Chuck

There is an antihalation (pre-exposed) layer on the floor of sheet photopolymer.
(This is why you can't washout out completely to the floor.) In the earlier
years of photopolymer, back-exposure was required to create this effect.

So, type of backing (polyester film, steel, or other metal) is not in any way a
significant factor in exposure. Much more important is the thickness of the
photopolymer itself and, specifically (within this), its hardness rating. In
plates configured for letterpress, however, hardness ratings are limited to a
somewhat narrow range.

Variations in washout and drying times are also primarily dependent upon sheet
thickness.

Gerald


chuck sumner wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>I'm wondering if anyone has words reguarding boxcar vs metal backed
>exposure times?
>
>ie: three minutes for a metal plate is roughly X minutes with a boxcar...
>
>I would think the boxcars are lower, but I dont really want to waste a
>bunch finding out.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck
>
>
>

i'm looking for moving advice. i would like to disassemble the c&p
(manufactured 1895) as little as possible for transit.

1) at least the flywheel and the other wheel (which was attached to a
motor, motor since removed) must come off. but the pin holding the
flywheel is shorn and squashed. not sure how to remove it. the pin is on
the outside of the wheel. any ideas?

2) are there other parts that should be removed?

3) the press is bolted to two 2'x4's. what is the best way to move the
bulk of the press? a pallet jack? it has to go through a 34" doorway to
get out.

4) can we use a lift gate on the back of a truck or is this too much
weight?

5) it goes down a half-flight of stairs to its new home. will a motorized
winch be required to lower it, or will a few guys with a rope suffice?

thanks, brian

Brian, if I had a C&P, this is what I'd probably do because I tend to
overdesign things like this.
   From a few sources, I have learned that there are hols on the C&P
feet for bolts.  Apparently others moving them have found that
affixing the press (I can't offer advice on what to remove) to a
pallet and then plan on moving that.  If you think three guys would
be enough, have 6 or 7.  If you think a rope is enough, double the
thickness and have plenty.
   If you can arrange either a block and tackle or the kind of little
crane used to remove engines from trucks, you might consider having
one nearby to assist or serve as back up for the lift gate on the
truck.
   When in doubt, use more.  Those puppies don't grow on trees.
Sorry to expound on something as to which I have no real information,
but I felt the need to participate after lurking for a while.
Just remember, analyze, process, cogitate, and worry.  Repeat as
necessary and you'll be fine!
  Ira.

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Molanphy"
<bmolanphy@c...> wrote:
> i'm looking for moving advice. i would like to disassemble the c&p
> (manufactured 1895) as little as possible for transit.
>
> 1) at least the flywheel and the other wheel (which was attached to
a
> motor, motor since removed) must come off. but the pin holding the
> flywheel is shorn and squashed. not sure how to remove it. the pin
is on
> the outside of the wheel. any ideas?
>
> 2) are there other parts that should be removed?
>
> 3) the press is bolted to two 2'x4's. what is the best way to move
the
> bulk of the press? a pallet jack? it has to go through a 34"
doorway to
> get out.
>
> 4) can we use a lift gate on the back of a truck or is this too much
> weight?
>
> 5) it goes down a half-flight of stairs to its new home. will a
motorized
> winch be required to lower it, or will a few guys with a rope
suffice?
>
> thanks, brian

Brian

You should seriously look at the archives over at Letpress for advice
on this.

http://listserv@hermes.csd.unb.ca/archives/letpress.html

The archives is open to the public and is searchable. This question
surfaces periodically and there is plenty of discussion on the topic.

Gerald


> i'm looking for moving advice. i would like to disassemble the c&p
> (manufactured 1895) as little as possible for transit.
>
> 1) at least the flywheel and the other wheel (which was attached to a
> motor, motor since removed) must come off. but the pin holding the
> flywheel is shorn and squashed. not sure how to remove it. the pin is on
> the outside of the wheel. any ideas?
>
> 2) are there other parts that should be removed?
>
> 3) the press is bolted to two 2'x4's. what is the best way to move the
> bulk of the press? a pallet jack? it has to go through a 34" doorway to
> get out.
>
> 4) can we use a lift gate on the back of a truck or is this too much
> weight?
>
> 5) it goes down a half-flight of stairs to its new home. will a
motorized
> winch be required to lower it, or will a few guys with a rope suffice?
>
> thanks, brian

My advice being an equipment mover is to first bolt it to 4 x 4's using
large lag bolts and round the corners on the end of the 4 x 4's.  Make sure
the bottoms are smooth.  Also invest in some Schedule 40 "Thick Wall" Gas
Pipe (available at you local home repair center)  cut around 40" long and
roll the press this way.  you will need 4 lengths of tubes. We have moved
large cylinders in tight spots this way.  as far as going down stairs I
would recommend a cable cum-a-long as opposed to a rope.  Also some dish
soap will help it go down the stairs.  (it is cleaner that oil which works a
little better) get a large 5' + Crow Bar to help guide it down with
leverage.  Do not dismantle the press unless it is absolutely mandatory  the
fly wheel is probably rusted or fused on the shaft very well.  Plus the
shaft is the same length with or with out the flywheel.  A lift gate truck
should work well for moving the press.

From: "iranewlander" <iraleenewlander@...>
Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 22:12:00 -0000
To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: moving 8"x11" c&p


Brian, if I had a C&P, this is what I'd probably do because I tend to
overdesign things like this.
  From a few sources, I have learned that there are hols on the C&P
feet for bolts.  Apparently others moving them have found that
affixing the press (I can't offer advice on what to remove) to a
pallet and then plan on moving that.  If you think three guys would
be enough, have 6 or 7.  If you think a rope is enough, double the
thickness and have plenty.
  If you can arrange either a block and tackle or the kind of little
crane used to remove engines from trucks, you might consider having
one nearby to assist or serve as back up for the lift gate on the
truck.
  When in doubt, use more.  Those puppies don't grow on trees.
Sorry to expound on something as to which I have no real information,
but I felt the need to participate after lurking for a while.
Just remember, analyze, process, cogitate, and worry.  Repeat as
necessary and you'll be fine!
Ira.

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Molanphy"
<bmolanphy@c...> wrote:
> i'm looking for moving advice. i would like to disassemble the c&p
> (manufactured 1895) as little as possible for transit.
>
> 1) at least the flywheel and the other wheel (which was attached to
a
> motor, motor since removed) must come off. but the pin holding the
> flywheel is shorn and squashed. not sure how to remove it. the pin
is on
> the outside of the wheel. any ideas?
>
> 2) are there other parts that should be removed?
>
> 3) the press is bolted to two 2'x4's. what is the best way to move
the
> bulk of the press? a pallet jack? it has to go through a 34"
doorway to
> get out.
>
> 4) can we use a lift gate on the back of a truck or is this too much
> weight?
>
> 5) it goes down a half-flight of stairs to its new home. will a
motorized
> winch be required to lower it, or will a few guys with a rope
suffice?
>
> thanks, brian




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Having been re-energized by Fritz's talk in SF, I've done a lot of work on
the Vandercook information website recently
(http://mwilden.com/vandercook/). Here are some highlights:

The site currently lists 90 distinct models of Vandercook proof presses - 62
of them with pix and stats. There probably aren't too many more. Check out
the wacky RO4-29! (http://mwilden.com/vandercook/#ro4-29)

Hal Sterne loaned me some priceless original catalogs, from which I was able
to take nice sharp scans. I've incorporated other material contributed by
(in order of thickness) Eric Holub, Gerald Lange and Fritz Klinke. David S.
Rose allowed me to reprint his very useful Vandercook lock-up article, from
Letpress. My appreciation goes to them and to anyone I may have forgotten at
the moment.

The site includes a picture of the founder, Robert O. Vandercook,
contributed by his great-grandson
(http://mwilden.com/vandercook/roberto.htm). His great-granddaughter has
also contacted me. That was pretty cool. :)

Eric gave me a whole whomp-load of material at the SF gathering - that's the
next thing to incorporate. Thank you to everyone who's encouraged the
project! I'm glad to have found this little niche to which to contribute.

Innerer Klang Press in Charlestown, MA is having a shop sale on February 21,
2004. Items for sale include a Heidelberg Windmill Press (10 x 15), a
Vandercook 4T Proof Press, a C & P Old Series 10 x 15 Press sans motor, lots of
type,
miscellaneous galley racks, type cabinets, motorized miterer, miscellaneous
accessories.
Email with any questions: innererklang@...

Mark Olson

Mark

What is the asking price for the windmill?  I am scaling up production and
would like to add a second one to my shop. Is it in good condition? Do you
have any bases for sale?


Cheers,
Bryan





bryan hutcheson

manifesto letterpress
116 pleasant st. #2245
easthampton, ma 01027

p/f: 413.529.0009
http://www.manifestopress.com

Custom Letterpress Printing  & Design
­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­
Announcements ­ Stationery ­ Packaging







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Price on Vandercook & Any pictures

arizonaprinte@...

From: innererklang@...
Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:11:55 EST
To: ppletterpress@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Scaling down shop sale


Innerer Klang Press in Charlestown, MA is having a shop sale on February 21,
2004. Items for sale include a Heidelberg Windmill Press (10 x 15), a
Vandercook 4T Proof Press, a C & P Old Series 10 x 15 Press sans motor, lots
of type,
miscellaneous galley racks, type cabinets, motorized miterer, miscellaneous
accessories.
Email with any questions: innererklang@...

Mark Olson


• To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bryan--
The initial asking price for the Windmill is $3750.00. If more than one
person is interested on the day of the sale, I will be taking one round of
secret
bids and the top bidder will win. The press is old (1950), I have not used it
much, but it seems in good condition. I had a new gripper holder and new (used)
grippers installed.

Mark

Oak Knoll's Winter Sale Catalogue M558 is now available on the internet in
electronic format.  The Winter Sale Catalogue lists 1226 books about books
and the book arts and these are offered on a progressive discount
schedule.  The discount ranges from 20% to 50% Off and the more you buy the
bigger the discount.  These discounts will only be offered through April 1,
2004 and all books are subject to prior sale.
          Because of the size of this catalogue we have broken it into three
sections to keep down load times reasonable.  The links are:

Entries A to D --
<http://www.oakknoll.com/m558/a-d.html>

Entries E to N --
<http://www.oakknoll.com/m558/e-n.html>

Entries O to Z
<http://www.oakknoll.com/m558/o-z.html>

          Of particular interest to PPL would be the many titles on printing
and typography.  Remember you can search within each section electronically
by using the "Control F" search function on most computers.

Sincerely,
John Laird
Director of Marketing

<http://www.oakknoll.com/>Oak Knoll Books
310 Delaware Street New Castle DE 19720
P: 302.328.7232 - F: 302.328.7274 - E: oakknoll@... web
http://www.oakknoll.com/
Member Antiquarian Bookseller's Association of America (ABAA)
http://www.abaa.org/
International League of Antiquarian Booksellers (ILAB)
http://www.ilab-lila.com/
Buy with confidence of consumer protection when you buy from an ILAB
bookseller

Walter Hamady once suggested that his greatest contribution to
printing was his use of the rubber door stop for securing the cylinder
overlay when changing over (right up there in the top dozen most
useful tools for the Vandercook in my book).

Well… I recently came up for the perfect plate registration tapper for
a Bunting magnetic base. A bookbinder's brass pallet. Since these come
in various widths they are almost ideal, and, not all that expensive.
Unlike steel tapping contrivances they don't get hung up on the
magnetism or damage the base's surface. Get one with a nice thick
taper down to its striking surface and with a bit of heft to it. Once
you get over the fact that you are permanently destroying their
intended purpose, they work great, and the guilt quickly subsides
[well, not quite]. So… that's my contribution.

Gerald

Hi, Gerald

Is that 'Securing the cylinder overlay when changing the tympan paper?'
I can see that would be useful ;-)

As I'm still in the non-magbase world (and getting more into cherrywood all the
time ;-) I haven't had a use for your contribution, but again, I can see where a
brass tool would be useful!

Good thinking!
p


At 6:04 AM +0000 2004-02-15, Gerald Lange wrote:
>Walter Hamady once suggested that his greatest contribution to
>printing was his use of the rubber door stop for securing the cylinder
>overlay when changing over (right up there in the top dozen most
>useful tools for the Vandercook in my book).
>
>Well… I recently came up for the perfect plate registration tapper for
>a Bunting magnetic base. A bookbinder's brass pallet. Since these come
>in various widths they are almost ideal, and, not all that expensive.
>Unlike steel tapping contrivances they don't get hung up on the
>magnetism or damage the base's surface. Get one with a nice thick
>taper down to its striking surface and with a bit of heft to it. Once
>you get over the fact that you are permanently destroying their
>intended purpose, they work great, and the guilt quickly subsides
>[well, not quite]. So… that's my contribution.
>
>Gerald


--
AzByCx DwEvFu GtHsIr JqKpLo MnNmOl PkQjRi ShTgUf VeWdXc YbZa&@

Peter Fraterdeus        http://www.fraterdeus.com

http://www.semiotx.com Web Strategy Consulting
"Words that work."(tm)  Communication Design and Typography

Hi Peter,

What are you making/doing with the cherrywood?

Thanks, Roderick



Peter Fraterdeus <peterf@...> wrote:
Hi, Gerald

Is that 'Securing the cylinder overlay when changing the tympan paper?'
I can see that would be useful ;-)

As I'm still in the non-magbase world (and getting more into cherrywood all the
time ;-) I haven't had a use for your contribution, but again, I can see where a
brass tool would be useful!

Good thinking!
p


At 6:04 AM +0000 2004-02-15, Gerald Lange wrote:
>Walter Hamady once suggested that his greatest contribution to
>printing was his use of the rubber door stop for securing the cylinder
>overlay when changing over (right up there in the top dozen most
>useful tools for the Vandercook in my book).
>
>Well… I recently came up for the perfect plate registration tapper for
>a Bunting magnetic base. A bookbinder's brass pallet. Since these come
>in various widths they are almost ideal, and, not all that expensive.
>Unlike steel tapping contrivances they don't get hung up on the
>magnetism or damage the base's surface. Get one with a nice thick
>taper down to its striking surface and with a bit of heft to it. Once
>you get over the fact that you are permanently destroying their
>intended purpose, they work great, and the guilt quickly subsides
>[well, not quite]. So… that's my contribution.
>
>Gerald


--
AzByCx DwEvFu GtHsIr JqKpLo MnNmOl PkQjRi ShTgUf VeWdXc YbZa&@

Peter Fraterdeus        http://www.fraterdeus.com

http://www.semiotx.com      Web Strategy Consulting
"Words that work."(tm)  Communication Design and Typography


• To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
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• Encountering problems? contact:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Peter

I've got some engravers blocks here but I have no idea how to tell the
difference between cherrywood, boxwood, maple. Any clues?

Gerald

Peter Fraterdeus wrote:

>Hi, Gerald
>
>Is that 'Securing the cylinder overlay when changing the tympan paper?'
>I can see that would be useful ;-)
>
>As I'm still in the non-magbase world (and getting more into cherrywood all the
time ;-) I haven't had a use for your contribution, but again, I can see where a
brass tool would be useful!
>
>Good thinking!
>p
>
>
>
>

Well, maybe I meant boxwood.
I'm collecting wood type ;-)

Just got a couple drawers from a Ukrainian printshop in Michigan, with hand cut
Cyrillic glyphs.

ciao
p

At 10:30 AM -0800 2004-02-15, Roderick wrote:
>Hi Peter,
>
>What are you making/doing with the cherrywood?
>
>Thanks, Roderick
>
>
>
>Peter Fraterdeus <peterf@...> wrote:
>Hi, Gerald
>
>Is that 'Securing the cylinder overlay when changing the tympan paper?'
>I can see that would be useful ;-)
>
>As I'm still in the non-magbase world (and getting more into cherrywood all the
time ;-) I haven't had a use for your contribution, but again, I can see where a
brass tool would be useful!
>
>Good thinking!

--
AzByCx DwEvFu GtHsIr JqKpLo MnNmOl PkQjRi ShTgUf VeWdXc YbZa&@

Peter Fraterdeus        http://www.fraterdeus.com

http://www.semiotx.com Web Strategy Consulting
"Words that work."(tm)  Communication Design and Typography

Peter

Well, yeah, sort of. Acts like a third hand when you really need one.
Keeps the tympan secure to the cylinder when making adjustments or
replacing. Helps keep the tympan/bottom sheet packet from getting
disturbed, easier to manage, etc. Also, quite important, prevents the
tympan from drooping down and snapping off the friction fingers.

Don't leave home without one.

Gerald


>
> Is that 'Securing the cylinder overlay when changing the tympan paper?'
> I can see that would be useful ;-)
>

Gerald

Oh, I can't claim any real expertise.
Maple will of course be much lighter in color, often blonde. Cherry is redder.
(Which seems appropriate!) Apple wood was also used for type, as were holly and
dogwood.

Let's see what google offfers!

Here's some useful wood samples... http://www.writeturn.net/woods.html

The major characteristic for wood type, of course, being the old growth hardwood
extremely fine grain which allows the engraver to cut in any direction without
fear of raising the fiber from the surface.
The old Wisconsin hardwoods were amongst the finest in the world, all gone now,
but the Hamilton Mill in Two Rivers produced mountains of type and printer's
furniture for many decades in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. See
http://www.woodtype.org (note that the Ns in this logogram are upside down ;-)

P


>Peter
>
>I've got some engravers blocks here but I have no idea how to tell the
>difference between cherrywood, boxwood, maple. Any clues?
>
>Gerald

--
AzByCx DwEvFu GtHsIr JqKpLo MnNmOl PkQjRi ShTgUf VeWdXc YbZa&@

Peter Fraterdeus        http://www.fraterdeus.com

http://www.semiotx.com Web Strategy Consulting
"Words that work."(tm)  Communication Design and Typography

Gerald--
Can you describe how you use the door stopper? I can certainly see the need,
but don't see how you use it.
Thanks,
Jessica

Jessica

When you change the packing or adjust the tympan, bring the carriage about
halfway down the pressbed, stick the rubber door stop down in between the
cylinder and the roller bars [sic?] (the top one that normally has the star
wheels on it). It holds the tympan in place (snug against the cylinder) when you
loosen/tighten the gripper bar. Best not to have it in there when you roll the
carriage.

I like the no. 4 size with the gridded bottom best!!!

Gerald

Jessica Spring wrote:

>Gerald--
>Can you describe how you use the door stopper? I can certainly see the need,
>but don't see how you use it.
>Thanks,
>Jessica
>

Got it--that makes great sense. Thanks for the details--maybe I'll change
the packing more now!

> From: Gerald Lange <bieler@...>
> Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:28:08 -0800
> To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plate registration tapper
>
> Jessica
>
> When you change the packing or adjust the tympan, bring the carriage about
> halfway down the pressbed, stick the rubber door stop down in between the
> cylinder and the roller bars [sic?] (the top one that normally has the star
> wheels on it). It holds the tympan in place (snug against the cylinder) when
> you loosen/tighten the gripper bar. Best not to have it in there when you roll
> the carriage.
>
> I like the no. 4 size with the gridded bottom best!!!
>
> Gerald
>
> Jessica Spring wrote:
>
>> Gerald--
>> Can you describe how you use the door stopper? I can certainly see the need,
>> but don't see how you use it.
>> Thanks,
>> Jessica
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ? To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
> PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
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>

Please excuse cross-posting.

The Northern California Chapter of the the American Printing History
Association is pleased to announce that it will meet this Saturday Febrary
21st at the Book Club of California at 11am (312 Sutter Street, San
Francisco) to hear Barbara Land, the Club's Librarian, on W.A. Dwiggins.
Ms. Land will show one of the four master copies, assembled by Dorothy
Abbe, of the DWIGGINS MARIONETTES. We will also have a brief annual
business meeting, with lunch to follow will be at the newly  restored Ferry
Building, and a tour conducted by Kathleen Burch. All welcome.

For further information, contact chapter president John McBride at 510 /
527-1018
or JohnMcBride94702@ aol.com


Paul W. Romaine
web@...
Web Master
The American Printing History Association http://www.printinghistory.org


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gerald,

Now I'm dying to know what your other 11 most useful
tools for the Vandercook are. Would you share?

Yvonne

> Walter Hamady once suggested that his greatest
> contribution to
> printing was his use of the rubber door stop for
> securing the cylinder
> overlay when changing over (right up there in the
> top dozen most
> useful tools for the Vandercook in my book).


______________________________________________________________________

Yahoo! Mail - O melhor e-mail do Brasil! Abra sua conta agora:
http://br.yahoo.com/info/mail.html

Yvonne

Well, just finished printing and I see there are well over a couple of
dozen different kinds of tools laying around. Some unique, most rather
mundane. And I'm so spoiled and set in my ways on the press I doubt I
can tell which one I would prefer over another to do without. When even
one of them cannot readily be found it takes on an importance that
suddenly overwhelms all the others waiting so patiently to do their
intended bidding.

Not trying to avoid the question. I actually started compiling a list
for you but it just started growing and I started getting bored with
what should be in and what should be in.

This might be a good question for the membership at large. Every printer
has got something no one else does that they think they can't live
without. Me, I can no longer work without a can of compressed air at my
ready and, of course, my handy-dandy 4-point slip of leading. Ha!!!

Gerald

yvonne tsang wrote:

>Gerald,
>
>Now I'm dying to know what your other 11 most useful
>tools for the Vandercook are. Would you share?
>
>Yvonne
>
>
>
>>Walter Hamady once suggested that his greatest
>>contribution to
>>printing was his use of the rubber door stop for
>>securing the cylinder
>>overlay when changing over (right up there in the
>>top dozen most
>>useful tools for the Vandercook in my book).
>>
>>
>
>
>

Hi Paul

This is an amazing book. Picked one up in the mid-nineties when they
were first remaindered. Apparently these were all left in storage for
so very many years, and then released for something like $40. Quite a
good catch. Wish I had bought a bunch of them, and wish I could attend
this.

Gerald


>
> The Northern California Chapter of the the American Printing History
> Association is pleased to announce that it will meet this Saturday
Febrary
> 21st at the Book Club of California at 11am (312 Sutter Street, San
> Francisco) to hear Barbara Land, the Club's Librarian, on W.A.
Dwiggins.
> Ms. Land will show one of the four master copies, assembled by Dorothy
> Abbe, of the DWIGGINS MARIONETTES. We will also have a brief annual
> business meeting, with lunch to follow will be at the newly
restored Ferry
> Building, and a tour conducted by Kathleen Burch. All welcome.
>
> For further information, contact chapter president John McBride at
510 /
> 527-1018
> or JohnMcBride94702@ aol.com
>
>
> Paul W. Romaine
> web@p...
> Web Master
> The American Printing History Association http://www.printinghistory.org

Gerald,

I must agree with you about the book. It's a fascinating perspective
on WAD, both for creativity and a certain "je ne sais quoi" about him
as a person. There's a WAD anniversary coming up, I believe, in 2006
and perhaps someone familiar with the Dwiggins archives at the Boston
Public Library could comment. The marionettes are still at BPL.

Best,
Paul


--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <bieler@w...>
wrote:
> Hi Paul
>
> This is an amazing book. Picked one up in the mid-nineties when they
> were first remaindered. Apparently these were all left in storage
for
> so very many years, and then released for something like $40. Quite
a
> good catch. Wish I had bought a bunch of them, and wish I could
attend
> this.
>
> Gerald