Hello -

We've got one of these, and we're having an issue with it.  I'm hoping if anyone
out there has the same cutter, they might be able to answer a question for me?

You can contact me off list. . . .

Thanks!

Eileen

Dear friends/colleagues,

My installation at the Hoffman Gallery at OCAC will be up for 6 more days.
The hours are 10am - 3pm every day, closing on Tuesday the 23rd at 3pm.
I should be up at school most of these days, so if you want a personal tour
please let me know and we can arrange it. This show, which asks you to view a
novel (Willa Cather's "My Ántonia) from inside and out, has been really well
received, especially by the over-65 crowd (!). I hope you can make it up. My
school phone number is 503-297-5544 x 147

-Barb

Dear PPLers: I want to let you know about what's happening at the press, and to ask for your help (with awareness of recent discussion on this list about crowdfunding). After 28 years in the field, I've redefined how I want to teach an apprentice, making the experience as much of a broad-based educational opportunity as possible. For more info (condensed in the 2.5 min video) & to help support: http://www.indiegogo.com/letpress-apprentice?c=home&a=1147117

An eager & talented young woman is my new apprentice, and, in addition to passing on rare skills of our letterpress craft (and other book arts related skills), my obligation is to be her mentor; teach as much as I can about everything from taking an idea and making it into art to how to run a small business; and help her make connections in the book arts community by attending conferences, workshops, and book fairs together. The apprenticeship is modeled after my own highly valuable experience of working for and learning from Gerald Lange at the USC Fine Arts Press in the late 1980s-early 1990s. That experience, however, was funded by my university staff salary; for my new apprentice I am depending on grants and crowdfunding-style fundraising to cover her modest stipend and her educational travel costs & conference fees. The CODEX Foundation has blessed this project by agreeing to be the fiscal sponsor, so donations can be TAX-DEDUCTIBLE. Our facebook page will further describe and show what we’re doing: http://www.facebook.com/LetterpressApprenticeship.

Robin

   

Robin Price, Printer & Publisher

Now through 21 November 2012: Letterpress Apprenticeship fundraising appeal http://www.indiegogo.com/letpress-apprentice?a=1147117
http://www.robinpricepublisher.com/

the famous book by J F Earhart The Colour Printer

avaialble from S P Touhy  in Oxford Uk , price £450, is v v scarce wish I could
afford it, just incase any collectors out there need to know- I asked Oaknoll if
they would consider reprinting it but they no..............

Oops! Deadline past.
-----------------------------------------
Robert E. Blesse
Director, The Black Rock Press
Department of Art/224
University of Nevada, Reno
Reno, NV 89557
775.682.5630 - office
775.233.2546 - mobile
775.784-6655 - fax
blesse@...<mailto:blesse@...>
www.blackrockpress.org<http://www.blackrockpress.org/>


From: Bridget Elmer <bridgetelmer@...<mailto:bridgetelmer@...>>
Reply-To: PPLetterpress
<PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com<mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 15:09:12 -0700
To: PPLetterpress
<PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com<mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>>
Cc: "southeastguild@...<mailto:southeastguild@...>"
<southeastguild@...<mailto:southeastguild@...>>
Subject: [PPLetterpress] SEGBW Juried Exhibition - Deadline EXTENDED to November
10



Greetings from SEGBW!

We're writing with exciting news... the deadline for submissions to our SEGBW
Juried Exhibition at Asheville BookWorks has been extended to:

NOVEMBER 1, 2012

Please visit our updated blog post for details:

http://segbwnews.blogspot.com/

Please note that ALL SEGBW members are welcome to submit, regardless of region.
The same is true for ALL BookWorks Co-op members. Non-members who are book
artists living and working in the Southeast region are also welcome to submit.

We apologize for any confusion regarding eligibility and we hope that you will
take this opportunity to submit your work. Please let us know if you have any
additional questions!

All the best,

Southeast Chapter Committee
Guild of Book Workers
southeastguild@...<mailto:southeastguild@...>

Is anyone familiar with printing inks that can be used for items that will
be in contact with food? Specifically for gourmet Popsicle sticks

Thanks
RK

----- Original Message -----

From: matthew lamoureux

To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 8:18 PM

Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] USFDA approved inks for letterpress

 

Just ask your normal ink supplier for them. We used to have buy them for labels that went on food containers.

---

From: Richard Kegler <richard@...>;
To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: [PPLetterpress] USFDA approved inks for letterpress
Sent: Mon, Nov 5, 2012 8:03:41 PM

Is anyone familiar with printing inks that can be used for items that will be in contact with food? Specifically for gourmet Popsicle sticks Thanks RK

Buy a MAC and be rid of your problems for good




--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lance Williams <lwwill7999@...> wrote:
>
> (Posted this to LETPRESS yesterday from my smartphone, but I did not
> have these other addresses there, and forgot last night from my laptop
> (not the one that caused the spam issue!).
>
> Apologies to all my friends who got smothered with spam from my email
> account today.
>
> I am assuming the issue arose from my use of an old laptop a couple days
> ago.  I did not realize the security software had expired leaving me
> open to attack until I had been working for an hour or so....
>
> Apparently, the Spammer got the password to my Earthlink account,
> accessed my webmail and went to town.
>
> I have since changed my password and deleted the entire online address
> book Earthlink had created. (currently unused)
>
> Hopefully the issue is taken care of...
>
> - Lance Williams
> Williams Stationery Co.
> Camden, New York
> APA #785
>

We have recently received a number of SPAM messages. Most have been deleted
before they went public. Please DO NOT reply to these "take a look at this link"
type of messages, they invariably attempt to transfer a virus.

Yvon. Older desktop Macs are not effected but mobile devices of any manufacture
might be. Apple has its own virus protection software that is ON by default (and
can only be turned off through Terminal), but that might not be applicable in
all cases.

Gerald

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <print14@...> wrote:
>
> Buy a MAC and be rid of your problems for good
>
>
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lance Williams <lwwill7999@> wrote:
> >
> > (Posted this to LETPRESS yesterday from my smartphone, but I did not
> > have these other addresses there, and forgot last night from my laptop
> > (not the one that caused the spam issue!).
> >
> > Apologies to all my friends who got smothered with spam from my email
> > account today.
> >
> > I am assuming the issue arose from my use of an old laptop a couple days
> > ago.  I did not realize the security software had expired leaving me
> > open to attack until I had been working for an hour or so....
> >
> > Apparently, the Spammer got the password to my Earthlink account,
> > accessed my webmail and went to town.
> >
> > I have since changed my password and deleted the entire online address
> > book Earthlink had created. (currently unused)
> >
> > Hopefully the issue is taken care of...
> >
> > - Lance Williams
> > Williams Stationery Co.
> > Camden, New York
> > APA #785
> >
>

The Southern California Chapter of the American Printing History Association
presents an all-day exploration of printing history in Los Angeles.

Please join us on Saturday, December 8, for "Where Bohemians Gathered: Exploring
Los Angeles Printing History Along the Arroyo Seco."

During the early decades of the 20th century, scholars, artists, craftsmen,
publishers, booksellers, and collectors lived and worked near the banks of the
Arroyo Seco, creating a local culture that today seems ideal. Collocated around
publisher and editor Charles Fletcher Lummis, the neighborhood attracted
writers, printers, and bookbinders, including Clyde Browne, Idah Meacham
Strobridge, Mary Austin, Ward Ritchie, and Alice Millard. Time (and the
construction of the Pasadena Freeway) put an end to the area's bonhomie, but
these individuals and their works bestowed a lasting legacy on the book and
print culture of the Southland.

The day will begin at 9:00 a.m. at Occidental College with an opportunity to
view an exhibition on the people and events that made the Arroyo a significant
nexus of printing history. Coffee and pastries will be served. At 10:30 a.m.,
noted California historian Gary Kurutz will give a talk, "A Southland Bohemia:
Print Culture on the Arroyo Seco," that will put the exhibition and the day's
activities in context. The group will move on to the nearby house of Charles
Flecther Lummis for a box lunch and guided tour of the galleries and grounds.
We'll continue on to the Abbey San Encino, home of Clyde Browne, for an
exclusive tour of this historic and significant structure. For those interested
in driving to nearby points of interest after the Abbey tour, there will be time
to do so before sunset.

Registration is all-inclusive, covering the lecture and exhibit, the tours,
morning refreshments, a box lunch, and a letterpress-printed keepsake. For more
information or to register, please contact info@... or visit
aphasocal.org.

I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate maker
that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I pour
in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes, then
I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow have
the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened. They
feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of
bristle when about to dry.

Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches
(around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?


--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the
machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes
everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout
for plates.
>

It sounds like you are doing it right. Not sure about how much water to put in
the bath since you didn't say the size of your machine. When cleaning, probably
at least above the brush. As it drains rub you hand across the surface of the
brush, as it drains away the tuffs will begin to straighten out. You want that.

When you put a dry brush back into the machine and fill it with water, repeat
the slight brush with your hand and the tuffs will soften.

I clean the drained bath out with Tilex once every couple of weeks or so
(depends on the time of year). That will get rid of the mildew, mold or
whatever. It just needs to be sprayed on (do not spray it on the brushes), next
day zero life is in there. It even removes dried polymer waste to some degree.

Vinegar should be used in the washout bath for cleaning the plates. A cup for an
A2 size is sufficient. It alters the chemistry of the water a bit, which helps.
Won't help with the bugs though.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, 舜 <uthmod@...> wrote:
>
> I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate
maker that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I
pour in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes,
then I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow
have the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened.
They feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of
bristle when about to dry.
>
> Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches
(around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
> or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@> wrote:
> >
> > I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the
machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes
everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout
for plates.
> >
>

Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it that
way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around the
edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.

Drain and flush out everyday and run safe or periodically go and buy chemicals
and spend the time to get this crap out of your machine.

Gerald



--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> It sounds like you are doing it right. Not sure about how much water to put in
the bath since you didn't say the size of your machine. When cleaning, probably
at least above the brush. As it drains rub you hand across the surface of the
brush, as it drains away the tuffs will begin to straighten out. You want that.
>
> When you put a dry brush back into the machine and fill it with water, repeat
the slight brush with your hand and the tuffs will soften.
>
> I clean the drained bath out with Tilex once every couple of weeks or so
(depends on the time of year). That will get rid of the mildew, mold or
whatever. It just needs to be sprayed on (do not spray it on the brushes), next
day zero life is in there. It even removes dried polymer waste to some degree.
>
> Vinegar should be used in the washout bath for cleaning the plates. A cup for
an A2 size is sufficient. It alters the chemistry of the water a bit, which
helps. Won't help with the bugs though.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, 舜 <uthmod@> wrote:
> >
> > I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate
maker that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I
pour in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes,
then I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow
have the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened.
They feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of
bristle when about to dry.
> >
> > Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches
(around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
> > or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?
> >
> >
> > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the
machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes
everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout
for plates.
> > >
> >
>

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it
that way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around
the edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
>

Do you use plain water, or do you add a little vinegar?
   Several people have recommended that to me, but I was not sure if it was an
aid to processing, bath life, or cleanup. Detergent is a necessary part of
processing liquid photopolymer, not sure of its effect on sheet materal.
   These days I only make a few plates at a time, with long gaps in between, and
always drain and rinse, and my synthetic brushes have not suffered at all from
sitting clean and dry. I've already mentioned working in a shop where draining
was discouraged until absolutely necessary, and where photopolymer crystallized
on the fiber pad in that unit.
--Eric Holub, SF

Eric

A&V recommends a cup of vinegar with their A2 units. It's in the manual and it's
what tech support recommends. I think it primarily changes the Ph of the bath. A
long while back a member wrote that it helped quite a bit as he was using well
water in his unit.

I assume it also helps reduce mineral deposits as it is a well known cleaner in
this regard. I can't see that it would increase bath life in any way. Once you
have plate waste in the bath nature begins its work.

Some manufacturers recommend keeping the bath full and the brushes submerged. I
assume that is a clean bath. That won't work for me as keeping the little
critters at bay, as routine maintenance, is crucial.

Techniques for chemical processing of liguid photopolymer aren't necessarily
going to be transferable to processing water-based sheet photopolymer. Even
processing flexo sheet plates requires a different configuration of your machine
(soft water, higher bath temp. . .).

Gerald




--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <Megalonyx@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@> wrote:
> >
> > Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it
that way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around
the edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
> >
>
> Do you use plain water, or do you add a little vinegar?
>   Several people have recommended that to me, but I was not sure if it was an
aid to processing, bath life, or cleanup. Detergent is a necessary part of
processing liquid photopolymer, not sure of its effect on sheet materal.
>   These days I only make a few plates at a time, with long gaps in between,
and always drain and rinse, and my synthetic brushes have not suffered at all
from sitting clean and dry. I've already mentioned working in a shop where
draining was discouraged until absolutely necessary, and where photopolymer
crystallized on the fiber pad in that unit.
> --Eric Holub, SF
>

Just a further note on this. Vinegar isn't going to help eradicate organic
material per se, well, since it is organic. It does support, after all, the
existence of the vinegar worm. Not that you would ever find one in a bottle of
vinegar. But it does help clean out mineral deposits. I use it for cleaning the
deposits out of the water heater and the coffee pot. Since it is acidic it is
useful in that regard in the bath. It is, however, no end all. Diluted muriatic
acid would serve the same purpose, just like in swimming pools.

Gerald

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> Eric
>
> A&V recommends a cup of vinegar with their A2 units. It's in the manual and
it's what tech support recommends. I think it primarily changes the Ph of the
bath. A long while back a member wrote that it helped quite a bit as he was
using well water in his unit.
>
> I assume it also helps reduce mineral deposits as it is a well known cleaner
in this regard. I can't see that it would increase bath life in any way. Once
you have plate waste in the bath nature begins its work.
>
> Some manufacturers recommend keeping the bath full and the brushes submerged.
I assume that is a clean bath. That won't work for me as keeping the little
critters at bay, as routine maintenance, is crucial.
>
> Techniques for chemical processing of liguid photopolymer aren't necessarily
going to be transferable to processing water-based sheet photopolymer. Even
processing flexo sheet plates requires a different configuration of your machine
(soft water, higher bath temp. . .).
>
> Gerald
>
>
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <Megalonyx@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it
that way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around
the edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
> > >
> >
> > Do you use plain water, or do you add a little vinegar?
> >   Several people have recommended that to me, but I was not sure if it was
an aid to processing, bath life, or cleanup. Detergent is a necessary part of
processing liquid photopolymer, not sure of its effect on sheet materal.
> >   These days I only make a few plates at a time, with long gaps in between,
and always drain and rinse, and my synthetic brushes have not suffered at all
from sitting clean and dry. I've already mentioned working in a shop where
draining was discouraged until absolutely necessary, and where photopolymer
crystallized on the fiber pad in that unit.
> > --Eric Holub, SF
> >
>