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#13257 From: Susan Makov <smakov@...>
Date: Tue Oct 2, 2012 2:36 am
Subject: RE: Re: relief inks that bronze
susanmakov
Send Email Send Email
 
Gerald,
Thanks for your insights. Yes I have gotten that spiking you mention, though not what I wanted. Off to buy some new ink. Thanks.

Susan Makov
Professor of Art
Weber State University
2001 University Circle
Ogden, Utah 84408
h: 801-328-0128
www.Greencatpress.com



From: Bieler@...
To: smakov@...; PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 04:18:18 +0000
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: relief inks that bronze

 
Thinking about this some more I suspect the bronzing might simply be the effect of your mixing a relief ink with a matte litho ink. I once mixed Handschy Crayon Black (a stone litho ink) with good ole tried and true Van Son 10850 (which works in some applications) and got this weird spiking effect. Kind of liked it for the piece but probably could never replicate it no matter how I tried.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "bielerpr" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> The Daniel Smith relief inks tend to be a bit waxy. Relief inks in general aren't so great, bit too soupy. I use stone litho inks almost exclusively. I print with Vandercooks though, so if you are using another kind of press, the advice should be taken as such.
>
> I've had great success with Graphic Chemical's Lithographic Senefelder's Crayon Black. Amazing Black. It's a bit stiff but can be cut with their Roll Up Black. The whole line seems quite good. The Stiff Opaque White is to die for and the Laketine extender is bizarrely cool. Best line of inks I have found.
>
> I've tried most blacks out there though and I can't say I've ever noticed bronzing. Might be something unique to what you are doing.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "susanmakov" <smakov@> wrote:
> >
> > Lately, I have been having problems with my black relief inks (a mixture of Daniel Smith Relief black with lithographic matte black) bronzing in solid areas. I am printing on Tosa Hanga Japanese paper. I air dry it (I live in a very arid area) because it seems to take at least a week to dry. Any additives or special relief inks that do not bronze? Thanks for your ideas.
> >
>



#13258 From: typetom@...
Date: Tue Oct 2, 2012 2:45 am
Subject: Re: Re: relief inks that bronze
typetom2003
Send Email Send Email
 
Sorry but I just don't quite know what it means that an ink "bronzes" nor what a "weird spiking effect" might be. Technical language baffles me 96.2% of the time. Probably means something I've seen but I don't know what.
best wishes,
Tom
 
 
In a message dated 10/1/2012 8:36:14 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, smakov@... writes:


Gerald,
Thanks for your insights. Yes I have gotten that spiking you mention, though not what I wanted. Off to buy some new ink. Thanks.

Susan Makov
Professor of Art
Weber State University
2001 University Circle
Ogden, Utah 84408
h: 801-328-0128
www.Greencatpress.com



From: Bieler@...
To: smakov@...; PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 04:18:18 +0000
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: relief inks that bronze

 
Thinking about this some more I suspect the bronzing might simply be the effect of your mixing a relief ink with a matte litho ink. I once mixed Handschy Crayon Black (a stone litho ink) with good ole tried and true Van Son 10850 (which works in some applications) and got this weird spiking effect. Kind of liked it for the piece but probably could never replicate it no matter how I tried.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "bielerpr" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> The Daniel Smith relief inks tend to be a bit waxy. Relief inks in general aren't so great, bit too soupy. I use stone litho inks almost exclusively. I print with Vandercooks though, so if you are using another kind of press, the advice should be taken as such.
>
> I've had great success with Graphic Chemical's Lithographic Senefelder's Crayon Black. Amazing Black. It's a bit stiff but can be cut with their Roll Up Black. The whole line seems quite good. The Stiff Opaque White is to die for and the Laketine extender is bizarrely cool. Best line of inks I have found.
>
> I've tried most blacks out there though and I can't say I've ever noticed bronzing. Might be something unique to what you are doing.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "susanmakov" <smakov@> wrote:
> >
> > Lately, I have been having problems with my black relief inks (a mixture of Daniel Smith Relief black with lithographic matte black) bronzing in solid areas. I am printing on Tosa Hanga Japanese paper. I air dry it (I live in a very arid area) because it seems to take at least a week to dry. Any additives or special relief inks that do not bronze? Thanks for your ideas.
> >
>



#13259 From: Susan Makov <smakov@...>
Date: Tue Oct 2, 2012 4:54 am
Subject: RE: Re: relief inks that bronze
susanmakov
Send Email Send Email
 
Bronzing happens to me with a flat layer of black ink. I print it flat black, laying it on the print racks to dry. As it dries it develops a kind of blue sheen to it, no longer looking black everywhere. Very annoying if you do not want that bluish color. The "spikiness" that I notice, or interpret as a blotchiness, that again, starts showing up after a few days drying. 

Susan Makov
Professor of Art
Weber State University
2001 University Circle
Ogden, Utah 84408
h: 801-328-0128
www.Greencatpress.com



From: typetom@...
To: smakov@...; PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 22:45:27 -0400
Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: relief inks that bronze

 

Sorry but I just don't quite know what it means that an ink "bronzes" nor what a "weird spiking effect" might be. Technical language baffles me 96.2% of the time. Probably means something I've seen but I don't know what.
best wishes,
Tom
 
 
In a message dated 10/1/2012 8:36:14 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, smakov@... writes:


Gerald,
Thanks for your insights. Yes I have gotten that spiking you mention, though not what I wanted. Off to buy some new ink. Thanks.

Susan Makov
Professor of Art
Weber State University
2001 University Circle
Ogden, Utah 84408
h: 801-328-0128
www.Greencatpress.com



From: Bieler@...
To: smakov@...; PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 04:18:18 +0000
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: relief inks that bronze

 
Thinking about this some more I suspect the bronzing might simply be the effect of your mixing a relief ink with a matte litho ink. I once mixed Handschy Crayon Black (a stone litho ink) with good ole tried and true Van Son 10850 (which works in some applications) and got this weird spiking effect. Kind of liked it for the piece but probably could never replicate it no matter how I tried.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "bielerpr" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> The Daniel Smith relief inks tend to be a bit waxy. Relief inks in general aren't so great, bit too soupy. I use stone litho inks almost exclusively. I print with Vandercooks though, so if you are using another kind of press, the advice should be taken as such.
>
> I've had great success with Graphic Chemical's Lithographic Senefelder's Crayon Black. Amazing Black. It's a bit stiff but can be cut with their Roll Up Black. The whole line seems quite good. The Stiff Opaque White is to die for and the Laketine extender is bizarrely cool. Best line of inks I have found.
>
> I've tried most blacks out there though and I can't say I've ever noticed bronzing. Might be something unique to what you are doing.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "susanmakov" <smakov@> wrote:
> >
> > Lately, I have been having problems with my black relief inks (a mixture of Daniel Smith Relief black with lithographic matte black) bronzing in solid areas. I am printing on Tosa Hanga Japanese paper. I air dry it (I live in a very arid area) because it seems to take at least a week to dry. Any additives or special relief inks that do not bronze? Thanks for your ideas.
> >
>




#13260 From: typetom@...
Date: Tue Oct 2, 2012 7:06 am
Subject: Re: Re: relief inks that bronze
typetom2003
Send Email Send Email
 
hi Susan,
Thanks for the description. I probably need to experiment some - I've never noticed this kind of problem, but I rarely print a large solid surface of black. No such effect on a woodtype poster I did in Van Son black for the recent APA large tube mailing (which has a good-sized black border ornament as well as solid black wood type letters), and I don't see anything like this on any of the other blacks using larger wood type and other images in that same APA mailing.
 
Most black inks (excepting the Pantone Black for color mixing) do have blue pigment added - apparently to make it seem more opaque somehow. But that blue mostly shows when black is mixed to try to make a dark yellow (thus turning it green) or if it is mixed with a warm red (thus turning it a muddy purplish brown). I've never really noticed the blue in straight black ink, though I suppose color in the paper could affect it.
 
For anything I do, I generally wouldn't print with such litho inks lacking dryers. I suspect the effects you describe may be a result of the paper surface as much as the ink itself? Does this Japanese paper have variations of fibers which might alter the absorption in different places? An ink that dries more by oxidation than absorption could be an answer.
Best wishes,
 
Tom
 
Tom Parson/ Now It's Up To You
157 S Logan, Denver CO 80209
(303) 777-8951 - home & letterpress printshop
(720) 480-5358 - cellphone
typetom@...
www.nowitsuptoyou.com
 
 
In a message dated 10/1/2012 10:54:42 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, smakov@... writes:


Bronzing happens to me with a flat layer of black ink. I print it flat black, laying it on the print racks to dry. As it dries it develops a kind of blue sheen to it, no longer looking black everywhere. Very annoying if you do not want that bluish color. The "spikiness" that I notice, or interpret as a blotchiness, that again, starts showing up after a few days drying. 

Susan Makov
Professor of Art
Weber State University
2001 University Circle
Ogden, Utah 84408
h: 801-328-0128
www.Greencatpress.com



From: typetom@...
To: smakov@...; PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 22:45:27 -0400
Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: relief inks that bronze

 

Sorry but I just don't quite know what it means that an ink "bronzes" nor what a "weird spiking effect" might be. Technical language baffles me 96.2% of the time. Probably means something I've seen but I don't know what.
best wishes,
Tom
 
 
In a message dated 10/1/2012 8:36:14 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, smakov@... writes:


Gerald,
Thanks for your insights. Yes I have gotten that spiking you mention, though not what I wanted. Off to buy some new ink. Thanks.

Susan Makov
Professor of Art
Weber State University
2001 University Circle
Ogden, Utah 84408
h: 801-328-0128
www.Greencatpress.com



From: Bieler@...
To: smakov@...; PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 04:18:18 +0000
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: relief inks that bronze

 
Thinking about this some more I suspect the bronzing might simply be the effect of your mixing a relief ink with a matte litho ink. I once mixed Handschy Crayon Black (a stone litho ink) with good ole tried and true Van Son 10850 (which works in some applications) and got this weird spiking effect. Kind of liked it for the piece but probably could never replicate it no matter how I tried.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "bielerpr" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> The Daniel Smith relief inks tend to be a bit waxy. Relief inks in general aren't so great, bit too soupy. I use stone litho inks almost exclusively. I print with Vandercooks though, so if you are using another kind of press, the advice should be taken as such.
>
> I've had great success with Graphic Chemical's Lithographic Senefelder's Crayon Black. Amazing Black. It's a bit stiff but can be cut with their Roll Up Black. The whole line seems quite good. The Stiff Opaque White is to die for and the Laketine extender is bizarrely cool. Best line of inks I have found.
>
> I've tried most blacks out there though and I can't say I've ever noticed bronzing. Might be something unique to what you are doing.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "susanmakov" <smakov@> wrote:
> >
> > Lately, I have been having problems with my black relief inks (a mixture of Daniel Smith Relief black with lithographic matte black) bronzing in solid areas. I am printing on Tosa Hanga Japanese paper. I air dry it (I live in a very arid area) because it seems to take at least a week to dry. Any additives or special relief inks that do not bronze? Thanks for your ideas.
>





 

#13261 From: Eileen Madden <emadden1@...>
Date: Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:54 pm
Subject: Challenge HL 230 Cutter, anyone?
maddene2003
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello -

We've got one of these, and we're having an issue with it.  I'm hoping if anyone
out there has the same cutter, they might be able to answer a question for me?

You can contact me off list. . . .

Thanks!

Eileen

#13262 From: Steve Robison <robisonsteve@...>
Date: Sun Oct 14, 2012 4:12 am
Subject: Bay Area Book Artists "Book Arts Jam" - Sat. Oct. 20th in Palo Alto
robisonsteve
Send Email Send Email
 
(Cross Posted to a variety of printing and book arts related lists to get the word out about this great event...)

BAY AREA BOOK ARTISTS (BABA) Present:

    "BOOK ARTS JAM 2012"
          10 a.m to 4 p.m.
       Sat. Oct. 20th, 2012
  Lucie Stern Community Center
       1305 Middlefield Road
       Palo Alto, CA 94301

For all those in San Francisco Bay Area, and for those who can get here ......

Next Saturday October 20th from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. is the annual Bay Area Book Artists "Book Arts Jam," a grand and exciting celebration of the book arts.

Admission is FREE. Parking is FREE. But the experience is priceless!!!

This year the Jam will be held in a NEW LOCATION, the beautiful Lucie Stern Community Center at 1305 Middlefield Road, Palo Alto, CA.

So come one and all and enjoy Artist' Books, Altered Books, Sculptural Books, Popups, Miniature Books, Boxes, Handmade & Marbled Papers, Bookbinding, Live Letterpress Printing Demonstrations, a Slide Show of Artists Books, "Make & Take" Sessions, A Silent Auction, Guest Speakers, lots and lots of Vendors, Bay Area Book Artists (BABA) Exhibits, and much, much more !!!

For directions, photos of past events, and more information, go to www.bookartsjam.org

See you at the Jam !!!
 
--Steve Robison
robisonsteve@...

-- this message was sent by monks from the 14th century who calligraphically scribed each letter prior to the invention of moveable type :-)

#13263 From: barb tetenbaum <btetenbaum@...>
Date: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:45 pm
Subject: Fw: Installation at Hoffman Gallery, OCAC, closing next week
btetenbaum
Send Email Send Email
 
Dear friends/colleagues,

My installation at the Hoffman Gallery at OCAC will be up for 6 more days.
The hours are 10am - 3pm every day, closing on Tuesday the 23rd at 3pm.
I should be up at school most of these days, so if you want a personal tour
please let me know and we can arrange it. This show, which asks you to view a
novel (Willa Cather's "My Ántonia) from inside and out, has been really well
received, especially by the over-65 crowd (!). I hope you can make it up. My
school phone number is 503-297-5544 x 147

-Barb

#13264 From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
Date: Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:26 pm
Subject: Fwd: [P22] Goudy Font Sale & HWT American Chromatic
bielerpr
Send Email Send Email
 


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [P22] Goudy Font Sale & HWT American Chromatic
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 13:38:28 -0400
From: <p22@...>
To: <p22list@...>


P22 Newsletter - October 19, 2012 - Goudy Sale - HWT American Chromatic!

Designer Spotlight: Frederic W. Goudy

Preeminent type designer...

Frederic W. Goudy was appointed Art Director of the Lanston Monotype Machine Company of Philadelphia in 1920 and would remain in this position until 1947. Goudy created over 100 classic faces, thirty of which were created specifically for Lanston. It would be hard to imagine how much the general reading public would have suffered without the devoted contribution that Goudy left.

Included in the LTC Goudy collection are currently 26 font families, including, Goudy Text, Goudy Initials, Deepdene, Garamont, Kennerley, Goudy Sans and Goudy Oldstyle. For two weeks only, through November 2nd, we are offering all of the LTC Goudy families at a 20% discount. In addition, we are offering a special Goudy sample pack that contains 6 different decorative styles for the special price of $49.95 (reg. $129.70)- a savings of $80. Prices start at $19.95 per single style.

Here are only some of the fonts featured in the Goudy Collection:

  • Goudy Initials
  • Goudy Aries
  • Kennerley
  • Californian
  • Pabst Set
  • Record Title
  • Deepdene Set


  • To learn more about the Goudy Special and for a complete listing of the fonts in this special, click here.

    Best Regards.
    P22 type foundry

    Newest Release: HWT American Chromatic
    from the Hamilton Wood Type Foundry

    HWT American Chromatic Font Set

    HWT American Chromatic is the inaugural release from the newly established Hamilton Wood Type Foundry- a joint venture between P22 type foundry and the Hamilton Wood Type & Printing Museum. The font set evokes classic Americana with stars and multi-color layering options- just in time for the US election season.

    The American Chromatic Set contains 8 font styles that can be multilayered and allow for thousands of possible color and pattern combinations. The design is configured to allow any combination of the 8 fonts to all align when identical text is set and arranged, one on top of the other. Five of the eight fonts can be used individually as variations of the classic Tuscan style of wood type. HWT American Chromatic is ideal for a wide array of design uses including election coverage materials and any other use that requires a classic Americana flavor.

    Prices start at $24.95 per single style. However, order before October 31st and receive a 20% discount on the full set of 8 fonts or each of the single styles.

    To learn more about this release, preview in Typecaster or purchase the American Chromatic font set, click here.


    This message is sent to you because you are subscribed to the mailing list p22list@....
    Send administrative queries to p22list-request@...
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    #13265 From: Robin Price <rprice@...>
    Date: Sun Oct 21, 2012 2:47 pm
    Subject: Letterpress Apprenticeship description & fundraising campaign
    robinprice4343
    Send Email Send Email
     

    Dear PPLers: I want to let you know about what's happening at the press, and to ask for your help (with awareness of recent discussion on this list about crowdfunding). After 28 years in the field, I've redefined how I want to teach an apprentice, making the experience as much of a broad-based educational opportunity as possible. For more info (condensed in the 2.5 min video) & to help support: http://www.indiegogo.com/letpress-apprentice?c=home&a=1147117

    An eager & talented young woman is my new apprentice, and, in addition to passing on rare skills of our letterpress craft (and other book arts related skills), my obligation is to be her mentor; teach as much as I can about everything from taking an idea and making it into art to how to run a small business; and help her make connections in the book arts community by attending conferences, workshops, and book fairs together. The apprenticeship is modeled after my own highly valuable experience of working for and learning from Gerald Lange at the USC Fine Arts Press in the late 1980s-early 1990s. That experience, however, was funded by my university staff salary; for my new apprentice I am depending on grants and crowdfunding-style fundraising to cover her modest stipend and her educational travel costs & conference fees. The CODEX Foundation has blessed this project by agreeing to be the fiscal sponsor, so donations can be TAX-DEDUCTIBLE. Our facebook page will further describe and show what we’re doing: http://www.facebook.com/LetterpressApprenticeship.

    I appreciate your checking out the campaign, and spreading the word to your friends and colleagues. To my knowledge, this is the first kickstarter-like campaign to fund an apprenticeship in the book arts, and I hope the project generates discussion about apprenticeships, how different people approach them, fund them, etc.

    Thank you for your consideration,
    Robin
       
    Robin Price, Printer & Publisher
    Now through 21 November 2012: Letterpress Apprenticeship fundraising appeal http://www.indiegogo.com/letpress-apprentice?a=1147117
    http://www.robinpricepublisher.com/


    #13266 From: Peter Fraterdeus <peterf@...>
    Date: Sun Oct 21, 2012 5:42 pm
    Subject: Re: Letterpress Apprenticeship description & fundraising campaign
    pfraterdeus
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Hi Robin

    We did a Kickstarter earlier this year for a small grant which enabled my summer apprentice to follow through a project.
    It's not as ambitious as your extended apprenticeship, but we were very pleased to exceed the modest funding that we'd asked for!


    Best wishes and good luck!

    Peter



    Peter Fraterdeus
    Exquisite letterpress takes time™ 
    tweet: @slowprint

    IdeasWords : Idea Swords
    Communication Strategy
    Semiotx.com  @ideaswords

    Design for Letterpress: Get the most out of your High-Touch Project!
    Free Webinar, Dates to be announced! Follow us on Twitter @slowprint

    On 21 Oct 2012, at 9:47 AM, Robin Price wrote:

    Dear PPLers: I want to let you know about what's happening at the press, and to ask for your help (with awareness of recent discussion on this list about crowdfunding). After 28 years in the field, I've redefined how I want to teach an apprentice, making the experience as much of a broad-based educational opportunity as possible. For more info (condensed in the 2.5 min video) & to help support: http://www.indiegogo.com/letpress-apprentice?c=home&a=1147117

    An eager & talented young woman is my new apprentice, and, in addition to passing on rare skills of our letterpress craft (and other book arts related skills), my obligation is to be her mentor; teach as much as I can about everything from taking an idea and making it into art to how to run a small business; and help her make connections in the book arts community by attending conferences, workshops, and book fairs together. The apprenticeship is modeled after my own highly valuable experience of working for and learning from Gerald Lange at the USC Fine Arts Press in the late 1980s-early 1990s. That experience, however, was funded by my university staff salary; for my new apprentice I am depending on grants and crowdfunding-style fundraising to cover her modest stipend and her educational travel costs & conference fees. The CODEX Foundation has blessed this project by agreeing to be the fiscal sponsor, so donations can be TAX-DEDUCTIBLE. Our facebook page will further describe and show what we’re doing: http://www.facebook.com/LetterpressApprenticeship.

    I appreciate your checking out the campaign, and spreading the word to your friends and colleagues. To my knowledge, this is the first kickstarter-like campaign to fund an apprenticeship in the book arts, and I hope the project generates discussion about apprenticeships, how different people approach them, fund them, etc.

    Thank you for your consideration,
    Robin
       
    Robin Price, Printer & Publisher
    Now through 21 November 2012: Letterpress Apprenticeship fundraising appeal http://www.indiegogo.com/letpress-apprentice?a=1147117
    http://www.robinpricepublisher.com/

    <campaign-collage-2-alt.jpeg>


    #13267 From: "jonathanjeclipse" <jonathanjeclipse@...>
    Date: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:50 am
    Subject: "Artistic Printing"
    jonathanjecl...
    Send Email Send Email
     
    the famous book by J F Earhart The Colour Printer
    
    avaialble from S P Touhy  in Oxford Uk , price £450, is v v scarce wish I could
    afford it, just incase any collectors out there need to know- I asked Oaknoll if
    they would consider reprinting it but they no..............

    #13268 From: Paul Shaw <paulshaw@...>
    Date: Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:11 pm
    Subject: Re: "Artistic Printing"
    paulshaw@...
    Send Email Send Email
     
    that's expensive but actually not a high price. I wish I could afford it also. If Oak Knoll reprinted it it would not be worth buying. Earhart needs good color production. A facsimile would be expensive.
    On Oct 29, 2012, at 6:50 AM, jonathanjeclipse wrote:

     

    the famous book by J F Earhart The Colour Printer

    avaialble from S P Touhy in Oxford Uk , price £450, is v v scarce wish I could afford it, just incase any collectors out there need to know- I asked Oaknoll if they would consider reprinting it but they no..............


    Paul Shaw

    Blue Pencil
    Codex
    Legacy of Letters
    Paul Shaw / Letter Design






    #13269 From: Bridget Elmer <bridgetelmer@...>
    Date: Fri Nov 2, 2012 10:09 pm
    Subject: SEGBW Juried Exhibition - Deadline EXTENDED to November 10
    bridgetelmer
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Greetings from SEGBW!

    We're writing with exciting news... the deadline for submissions to our SEGBW Juried Exhibition at Asheville BookWorks has been extended to:

    NOVEMBER 1, 2012

    Please visit our updated blog post for details:

    http://segbwnews.blogspot.com/

    Please note that ALL SEGBW members are welcome to submit, regardless of region. The same is true for ALL BookWorks Co-op members. Non-members who are book artists living and working in the Southeast region are also welcome to submit.

    We apologize for any confusion regarding eligibility and we hope that you will take this opportunity to submit your work. Please let us know if you have any additional questions!

    All the best,

    Southeast Chapter Committee
    Guild of Book Workers
    southeastguild@...

    #13270 From: Robert E Blesse <blesse@...>
    Date: Sat Nov 3, 2012 12:15 am
    Subject: Re: SEGBW Juried Exhibition - Deadline EXTENDED to November 10
    bobblesse
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Oops! Deadline past.
    -----------------------------------------
    Robert E. Blesse
    Director, The Black Rock Press
    Department of Art/224
    University of Nevada, Reno
    Reno, NV 89557
    775.682.5630 - office
    775.233.2546 - mobile
    775.784-6655 - fax
    blesse@...<mailto:blesse@...>
    www.blackrockpress.org<http://www.blackrockpress.org/>
    
    
    From: Bridget Elmer <bridgetelmer@...<mailto:bridgetelmer@...>>
    Reply-To: PPLetterpress
    <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com<mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>>
    Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 15:09:12 -0700
    To: PPLetterpress
    <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com<mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>>
    Cc: "southeastguild@...<mailto:southeastguild@...>"
    <southeastguild@...<mailto:southeastguild@...>>
    Subject: [PPLetterpress] SEGBW Juried Exhibition - Deadline EXTENDED to November
    10
    
    
    
    Greetings from SEGBW!
    
    We're writing with exciting news... the deadline for submissions to our SEGBW
    Juried Exhibition at Asheville BookWorks has been extended to:
    
    NOVEMBER 1, 2012
    
    Please visit our updated blog post for details:
    
    http://segbwnews.blogspot.com/
    
    Please note that ALL SEGBW members are welcome to submit, regardless of region.
    The same is true for ALL BookWorks Co-op members. Non-members who are book
    artists living and working in the Southeast region are also welcome to submit.
    
    We apologize for any confusion regarding eligibility and we hope that you will
    take this opportunity to submit your work. Please let us know if you have any
    additional questions!
    
    All the best,
    
    Southeast Chapter Committee
    Guild of Book Workers
    southeastguild@...<mailto:southeastguild@...>

    #13271 From: Bridget Elmer <bridgetelmer@...>
    Date: Sat Nov 3, 2012 2:34 am
    Subject: Re: SEGBW Juried Exhibition - November 10 Extended Deadline
    bridgetelmer
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Correction, the extended deadline for the SEGBW Juried Exhibition is November 10, 2012.

    Please see below for the updated update!

    ************************

    Greetings from SEGBW!

    We're writing with exciting news... the deadline for submissions to our SEGBW Juried Exhibition at Asheville BookWorks has been extended to:

    NOVEMBER 10, 2012

    Please visit our updated blog post for details:

    http://segbwnews.blogspot.com/

    Please note that ALL SEGBW members are welcome to submit, regardless of region. The same is true for ALL BookWorks Co-op members. Non-members who are book artists living and working in the Southeast region are also welcome to submit.

    We apologize for any confusion regarding eligibility and we hope that you will take this opportunity to submit your work. Please let us know if you have any additional questions!

    All the best,

    Southeast Chapter Committee
    Guild of Book Workers
    southeastguild@...



    #13273 From: Richard Kegler <richard@...>
    Date: Mon Nov 5, 2012 8:03 pm
    Subject: USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    richard@...
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Is anyone familiar with printing inks that can be used for items that will
    be in contact with food? Specifically for gourmet Popsicle sticks
    
    Thanks
    RK

    #13274 From: matthew lamoureux <lamsland@...>
    Date: Tue Nov 6, 2012 2:18 am
    Subject: Re: USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    lamsland
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Just ask your normal ink supplier for them. We used to have buy them for labels that went on food containers.


    From: Richard Kegler <richard@...>;
    To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>;
    Subject: [PPLetterpress] USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    Sent: Mon, Nov 5, 2012 8:03:41 PM

     

    Is anyone familiar with printing inks that can be used for items that will
    be in contact with food? Specifically for gourmet Popsicle sticks

    Thanks
    RK


    #13275 From: Lola Espinosa <letterpresslola@...>
    Date: Tue Nov 6, 2012 9:53 am
    Subject: Re: USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    lolaespinosa
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Hello,
    This is what I can find here in Europe. It is the ink used to stamp expire dates on eggshells, or logos on the crust ¿? of your parmesan cheese.
    I hope this helps.


    Greetings from Spain
    Lola



    2012/11/6 matthew lamoureux <lamsland@...>
     

    Just ask your normal ink supplier for them. We used to have buy them for labels that went on food containers.


    From: Richard Kegler <richard@...>;
    To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>;
    Subject: [PPLetterpress] USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    Sent: Mon, Nov 5, 2012 8:03:41 PM

     

    Is anyone familiar with printing inks that can be used for items that will
    be in contact with food? Specifically for gourmet Popsicle sticks

    Thanks
    RK



    #13276 From: "Rick Harden" <rharden@...>
    Date: Tue Nov 6, 2012 12:22 pm
    Subject: Re: USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    rickharden2002
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Color-Con is the only supplier.
     
    Rick
     
    Southern Ink Company
     
     
    ----- Original Message -----
    Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 8:18 PM
    Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] USFDA approved inks for letterpress

     

    Just ask your normal ink supplier for them. We used to have buy them for labels that went on food containers.


    From: Richard Kegler <richard@...>;
    To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>;
    Subject: [PPLetterpress] USFDA approved inks for letterpress
    Sent: Mon, Nov 5, 2012 8:03:41 PM

     

    Is anyone familiar with printing inks that can be used for items that will
    be in contact with food? Specifically for gourmet Popsicle sticks

    Thanks
    RK


    #13278 From: Lance Williams <lwwill7999@...>
    Date: Fri Nov 9, 2012 11:49 am
    Subject: SPAM attack yesterday!!!!
    lwwill7999
    Send Email Send Email
     
    (Posted this to LETPRESS yesterday from my smartphone, but I did not have these other addresses there, and forgot last night from my laptop (not the one that caused the spam issue!).

    Apologies to all my friends who got smothered with spam from my email account today.

    I am assuming the issue arose from my use of an old laptop a couple days ago.  I did not realize the security software had expired leaving me open to attack until I had been working for an hour or so....

    Apparently, the Spammer got the password to my Earthlink account, accessed my webmail and went to town.

    I have since changed my password and deleted the entire online address book Earthlink had created. (currently unused)

    Hopefully the issue is taken care of...

    - Lance Williams
    Williams Stationery Co.
    Camden, New York
    APA #785

    #13279 From: "Yvon" <print14@...>
    Date: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:21 pm
    Subject: Re: SPAM attack yesterday!!!!
    fnf444
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Buy a MAC and be rid of your problems for good
    
    
    
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lance Williams <lwwill7999@...> wrote:
    >
    > (Posted this to LETPRESS yesterday from my smartphone, but I did not
    > have these other addresses there, and forgot last night from my laptop
    > (not the one that caused the spam issue!).
    >
    > Apologies to all my friends who got smothered with spam from my email
    > account today.
    >
    > I am assuming the issue arose from my use of an old laptop a couple days
    > ago.  I did not realize the security software had expired leaving me
    > open to attack until I had been working for an hour or so....
    >
    > Apparently, the Spammer got the password to my Earthlink account,
    > accessed my webmail and went to town.
    >
    > I have since changed my password and deleted the entire online address
    > book Earthlink had created. (currently unused)
    >
    > Hopefully the issue is taken care of...
    >
    > - Lance Williams
    > Williams Stationery Co.
    > Camden, New York
    > APA #785
    >

    #13281 From: PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
    Date: Tue Nov 13, 2012 4:30 am
    Subject: Re: SPAM attack yesterday!!!!
    PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
    Send Email Send Email
     
    We have recently received a number of SPAM messages. Most have been deleted
    before they went public. Please DO NOT reply to these "take a look at this link"
    type of messages, they invariably attempt to transfer a virus.
    
    Yvon. Older desktop Macs are not effected but mobile devices of any manufacture
    might be. Apple has its own virus protection software that is ON by default (and
    can only be turned off through Terminal), but that might not be applicable in
    all cases.
    
    Gerald
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <print14@...> wrote:
    >
    > Buy a MAC and be rid of your problems for good
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lance Williams <lwwill7999@> wrote:
    > >
    > > (Posted this to LETPRESS yesterday from my smartphone, but I did not
    > > have these other addresses there, and forgot last night from my laptop
    > > (not the one that caused the spam issue!).
    > >
    > > Apologies to all my friends who got smothered with spam from my email
    > > account today.
    > >
    > > I am assuming the issue arose from my use of an old laptop a couple days
    > > ago.  I did not realize the security software had expired leaving me
    > > open to attack until I had been working for an hour or so....
    > >
    > > Apparently, the Spammer got the password to my Earthlink account,
    > > accessed my webmail and went to town.
    > >
    > > I have since changed my password and deleted the entire online address
    > > book Earthlink had created. (currently unused)
    > >
    > > Hopefully the issue is taken care of...
    > >
    > > - Lance Williams
    > > Williams Stationery Co.
    > > Camden, New York
    > > APA #785
    > >
    >

    #13282 From: "Barbara Hauser" <BarbHauser@...>
    Date: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:53 pm
    Subject: Explore printing history in Los Angeles on December 8
    seagazer1948
    Send Email Send Email
     
    The Southern California Chapter of the American Printing History Association
    presents an all-day exploration of printing history in Los Angeles.
    
    Please join us on Saturday, December 8, for "Where Bohemians Gathered: Exploring
    Los Angeles Printing History Along the Arroyo Seco."
    
    During the early decades of the 20th century, scholars, artists, craftsmen,
    publishers, booksellers, and collectors lived and worked near the banks of the
    Arroyo Seco, creating a local culture that today seems ideal. Collocated around
    publisher and editor Charles Fletcher Lummis, the neighborhood attracted
    writers, printers, and bookbinders, including Clyde Browne, Idah Meacham
    Strobridge, Mary Austin, Ward Ritchie, and Alice Millard. Time (and the
    construction of the Pasadena Freeway) put an end to the area's bonhomie, but
    these individuals and their works bestowed a lasting legacy on the book and
    print culture of the Southland.
    
    The day will begin at 9:00 a.m. at Occidental College with an opportunity to
    view an exhibition on the people and events that made the Arroyo a significant
    nexus of printing history. Coffee and pastries will be served. At 10:30 a.m.,
    noted California historian Gary Kurutz will give a talk, "A Southland Bohemia:
    Print Culture on the Arroyo Seco," that will put the exhibition and the day's
    activities in context. The group will move on to the nearby house of Charles
    Flecther Lummis for a box lunch and guided tour of the galleries and grounds.
    We'll continue on to the Abbey San Encino, home of Clyde Browne, for an
    exclusive tour of this historic and significant structure. For those interested
    in driving to nearby points of interest after the Abbey tour, there will be time
    to do so before sunset.
    
    Registration is all-inclusive, covering the lecture and exhibit, the tours,
    morning refreshments, a box lunch, and a letterpress-printed keepsake. For more
    information or to register, please contact info@... or visit
    aphasocal.org.

    #13283 From: 舜 <uthmod@...>
    Date: Thu Nov 15, 2012 2:50 pm
    Subject: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    uthmod
    Send Email Send Email
     
    I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate maker
    that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I pour
    in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes, then
    I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow have
    the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened. They
    feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of
    bristle when about to dry.
    
    Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches
    (around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
    or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?
    
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@...> wrote:
    >
    > I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the
    machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes
    everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout
    for plates.
    >

    #13284 From: Silber MaiKätzchen <maykitten1@...>
    Date: Thu Nov 15, 2012 4:17 pm
    Subject: AW: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    maykitten1
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Half a teaspoon of Dawn would probably work best.
    A drop or two added to the tank operating solution
    will help prevent the scum, as will washing more often.

    MaiKätzchen
     
    Dum loquimur, fugerit invida Aetas:
    Carpe diem!
    quam minimum credula postero!

    Horace
    Odes Book I



    From: 舜 <uthmod@...>
    To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
    Sent: Thu, November 15, 2012 9:52:41 AM
    Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Cleaning the washout unit

    I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate maker that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I pour in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes, then I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow have the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened. They feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of bristle when about to dry.

    Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches (around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
    or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?


    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@...> wrote:
    >
    > I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout for plates.
    >




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    #13285 From: "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...>
    Date: Sat Nov 17, 2012 2:22 am
    Subject: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    bielerpr
    Send Email Send Email
     
    It sounds like you are doing it right. Not sure about how much water to put in
    the bath since you didn't say the size of your machine. When cleaning, probably
    at least above the brush. As it drains rub you hand across the surface of the
    brush, as it drains away the tuffs will begin to straighten out. You want that.
    
    When you put a dry brush back into the machine and fill it with water, repeat
    the slight brush with your hand and the tuffs will soften.
    
    I clean the drained bath out with Tilex once every couple of weeks or so
    (depends on the time of year). That will get rid of the mildew, mold or
    whatever. It just needs to be sprayed on (do not spray it on the brushes), next
    day zero life is in there. It even removes dried polymer waste to some degree.
    
    Vinegar should be used in the washout bath for cleaning the plates. A cup for an
    A2 size is sufficient. It alters the chemistry of the water a bit, which helps.
    Won't help with the bugs though.
    
    Gerald
    http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
    
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, 舜 <uthmod@...> wrote:
    >
    > I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate
    maker that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I
    pour in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes,
    then I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow
    have the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened.
    They feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of
    bristle when about to dry.
    >
    > Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches
    (around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
    > or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?
    >
    >
    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@> wrote:
    > >
    > > I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the
    machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes
    everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout
    for plates.
    > >
    >

    #13286 From: "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...>
    Date: Wed Nov 21, 2012 11:08 am
    Subject: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    bielerpr
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it that
    way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around the
    edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
    
    Drain and flush out everyday and run safe or periodically go and buy chemicals
    and spend the time to get this crap out of your machine.
    
    Gerald
    
    
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
    >
    > It sounds like you are doing it right. Not sure about how much water to put in
    the bath since you didn't say the size of your machine. When cleaning, probably
    at least above the brush. As it drains rub you hand across the surface of the
    brush, as it drains away the tuffs will begin to straighten out. You want that.
    >
    > When you put a dry brush back into the machine and fill it with water, repeat
    the slight brush with your hand and the tuffs will soften.
    >
    > I clean the drained bath out with Tilex once every couple of weeks or so
    (depends on the time of year). That will get rid of the mildew, mold or
    whatever. It just needs to be sprayed on (do not spray it on the brushes), next
    day zero life is in there. It even removes dried polymer waste to some degree.
    >
    > Vinegar should be used in the washout bath for cleaning the plates. A cup for
    an A2 size is sufficient. It alters the chemistry of the water a bit, which
    helps. Won't help with the bugs though.
    >
    > Gerald
    > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
    >
    >
    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, 舜 <uthmod@> wrote:
    > >
    > > I also have inquiries on the cleaning procedures. I bought a Chinese plate
    maker that comes with a sloppy manual. After draining all those slimy liquid, I
    pour in another batch of water, then I use my hand to lightly scrub the brushes,
    then I drain all the water again. The brushes are then leave to dry. I somehow
    have the fear that if I leave the brushes to dry the brushes would be hardened.
    They feel so soft and harmless under water, yet they feel a very little bit of
    bristle when about to dry.
    > >
    > > Perhaps it's just newbie paranoia. But shall i increase the water batches
    (around 5 liter per batch) that is used to clean the brushes?
    > > or shall I apply detergents like vinegar in hot water?
    > >
    > >
    > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Bruce <pcpete100@> wrote:
    > > >
    > > > I agree with Gerald, we clean out every day - it stops build up around the
    machine in general which can be difficult to get rid of. We wash out the brushes
    everyday too and leave them to dry. Keeps the machine healthy and good washout
    for plates.
    > > >
    > >
    >

    #13287 From: "Eric" <Megalonyx@...>
    Date: Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:30 pm
    Subject: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    parallel_imp
    Send Email Send Email
     
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
    >
    > Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it
    that way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around
    the edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
    >
    
    Do you use plain water, or do you add a little vinegar?
       Several people have recommended that to me, but I was not sure if it was an
    aid to processing, bath life, or cleanup. Detergent is a necessary part of
    processing liquid photopolymer, not sure of its effect on sheet materal.
       These days I only make a few plates at a time, with long gaps in between, and
    always drain and rinse, and my synthetic brushes have not suffered at all from
    sitting clean and dry. I've already mentioned working in a shop where draining
    was discouraged until absolutely necessary, and where photopolymer crystallized
    on the fiber pad in that unit.
    --Eric Holub, SF

    #13288 From: "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...>
    Date: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:41 pm
    Subject: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    bielerpr
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Eric
    
    A&V recommends a cup of vinegar with their A2 units. It's in the manual and it's
    what tech support recommends. I think it primarily changes the Ph of the bath. A
    long while back a member wrote that it helped quite a bit as he was using well
    water in his unit.
    
    I assume it also helps reduce mineral deposits as it is a well known cleaner in
    this regard. I can't see that it would increase bath life in any way. Once you
    have plate waste in the bath nature begins its work.
    
    Some manufacturers recommend keeping the bath full and the brushes submerged. I
    assume that is a clean bath. That won't work for me as keeping the little
    critters at bay, as routine maintenance, is crucial.
    
    Techniques for chemical processing of liguid photopolymer aren't necessarily
    going to be transferable to processing water-based sheet photopolymer. Even
    processing flexo sheet plates requires a different configuration of your machine
    (soft water, higher bath temp. . .).
    
    Gerald
    
    
    
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <Megalonyx@...> wrote:
    >
    >
    >
    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@> wrote:
    > >
    > > Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it
    that way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around
    the edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
    > >
    >
    > Do you use plain water, or do you add a little vinegar?
    >   Several people have recommended that to me, but I was not sure if it was an
    aid to processing, bath life, or cleanup. Detergent is a necessary part of
    processing liquid photopolymer, not sure of its effect on sheet materal.
    >   These days I only make a few plates at a time, with long gaps in between,
    and always drain and rinse, and my synthetic brushes have not suffered at all
    from sitting clean and dry. I've already mentioned working in a shop where
    draining was discouraged until absolutely necessary, and where photopolymer
    crystallized on the fiber pad in that unit.
    > --Eric Holub, SF
    >

    #13289 From: "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...>
    Date: Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:39 am
    Subject: Re: Cleaning the washout unit
    bielerpr
    Send Email Send Email
     
    Just a further note on this. Vinegar isn't going to help eradicate organic
    material per se, well, since it is organic. It does support, after all, the
    existence of the vinegar worm. Not that you would ever find one in a bottle of
    vinegar. But it does help clean out mineral deposits. I use it for cleaning the
    deposits out of the water heater and the coffee pot. Since it is acidic it is
    useful in that regard in the bath. It is, however, no end all. Diluted muriatic
    acid would serve the same purpose, just like in swimming pools.
    
    Gerald
    
    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
    >
    > Eric
    >
    > A&V recommends a cup of vinegar with their A2 units. It's in the manual and
    it's what tech support recommends. I think it primarily changes the Ph of the
    bath. A long while back a member wrote that it helped quite a bit as he was
    using well water in his unit.
    >
    > I assume it also helps reduce mineral deposits as it is a well known cleaner
    in this regard. I can't see that it would increase bath life in any way. Once
    you have plate waste in the bath nature begins its work.
    >
    > Some manufacturers recommend keeping the bath full and the brushes submerged.
    I assume that is a clean bath. That won't work for me as keeping the little
    critters at bay, as routine maintenance, is crucial.
    >
    > Techniques for chemical processing of liguid photopolymer aren't necessarily
    going to be transferable to processing water-based sheet photopolymer. Even
    processing flexo sheet plates requires a different configuration of your machine
    (soft water, higher bath temp. . .).
    >
    > Gerald
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <Megalonyx@> wrote:
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@> wrote:
    > > >
    > > > Just as a test I filled the bath of my platemaker Friday night and left it
    that way over the weekend. Monday morning there was white feathery growth around
    the edging of the brushes and black spotting on the metallic surfaces.
    > > >
    > >
    > > Do you use plain water, or do you add a little vinegar?
    > >   Several people have recommended that to me, but I was not sure if it was
    an aid to processing, bath life, or cleanup. Detergent is a necessary part of
    processing liquid photopolymer, not sure of its effect on sheet materal.
    > >   These days I only make a few plates at a time, with long gaps in between,
    and always drain and rinse, and my synthetic brushes have not suffered at all
    from sitting clean and dry. I've already mentioned working in a shop where
    draining was discouraged until absolutely necessary, and where photopolymer
    crystallized on the fiber pad in that unit.
    > > --Eric Holub, SF
    > >
    >

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