Stan

Not to belabor the point but Coleman's Lantern Fuel is to be found in an
awful lot of US garages and basements. Many campers use it. And they
rarely burn down forests. It is one of those products that does not hide
what it is. And most folks tend to use it with appropriate caution.
Unlike a lot of the solutions that are proffered to the printing
industry, its properties, like mineral spirits, are understood.

Also note that the discussion pertains to both plate/type wash and press
wash. These are two different things. As Eric mentioned, very little
plate wash is needed to clean a printing surface.

Gerald


On 8/14/11 7:27 PM, okintertype wrote:
> The MSDS lists the flash point for Coleman's Lantern fuel as less than 0 F. 
That's a lot different than the 100 F you usually see for mineral spirits. 
People have done a lot of dangerous things and got away with it.  That does not
justify taking chances.  As already mentioned, white gas is volatile and heavier
than air.  It will vaporize at most shop temperatures, and collect in low
places.  Any kind of spark will ignite it.  It's much better to be safe, than to
be making excuses after the shop has burned, or worse, the printer.
> Stan
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric"<Megalonyx@...>  wrote:
>>
>>
>> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange"<Bieler@>  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the cautionary advice. It is quite clear that Coleman's Lantern
Fuel is combustible, it is obviously supposed to be. So caution is observed.
Safety cans, no open flames, no cigarettes.
>>>
>> Quite right. Caution doesn't need to be fear. The half-teaspoon of white gas
used to clean a plate is hardly enough vapor to worry about combustion. The only
anecdotal explosion I know involved degreasing an engine with white gas, in a
garage with a water heater.
>> The only time I use enough white gas that vapors may be a problem is when
soaking, cleaning and drying keyboard cams, and then windows and doors are
opened for ventilation. A single magazine cleaning doesn't need nearly as much
gas. If you clean multiple magazines, then, yeah, be careful.
>> --Eric Holub, SF
>>

Maybe worth recalling here that Frederick Goudy lost his shop and studio TWICE
to fire.
Kinda makes you wonder if he was just flicking matches around just for fun or
what.

Maybe his nickname was Sparky...

•~^~•~*~•~^~•~*~•~^~•~*~•
Peter Fraterdeus
Slowprint.com / Semiotx.com
google voice 1 563 223 8231
peterf@...

From iPhone plz excuse brevity!

On Aug 14, 2011, at 9:27 PM, okintertype <spthompson@...> wrote:

> The MSDS lists the flash point for Coleman's Lantern fuel as less than 0 F. 
That's a lot different than the 100 F you usually see for mineral spirits. 
People have done a lot of dangerous things and got away with it.  That does not
justify taking chances.  As already mentioned, white gas is volatile and heavier
than air.  It will vaporize at most shop temperatures, and collect in low
places.  Any kind of spark will ignite it.  It's much better to be safe, than to
be making excuses after the shop has burned, or worse, the printer.
> Stan
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <Megalonyx@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the cautionary advice. It is quite clear that Coleman's Lantern
Fuel is combustible, it is obviously supposed to be. So caution is observed.
Safety cans, no open flames, no cigarettes.
>>>
>>
>> Quite right. Caution doesn't need to be fear. The half-teaspoon of white gas
used to clean a plate is hardly enough vapor to worry about combustion. The only
anecdotal explosion I know involved degreasing an engine with white gas, in a
garage with a water heater.
>> The only time I use enough white gas that vapors may be a problem is when
soaking, cleaning and drying keyboard cams, and then windows and doors are
opened for ventilation. A single magazine cleaning doesn't need nearly as much
gas. If you clean multiple magazines, then, yeah, be careful.
>> --Eric Holub, SF
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Hi Eric,

I googled SEX typewash and Hurst site still offers it . . . Costs 69.33/gal which includes 22.50  hazmat fee.

I have 2 unopened gallons of the stuff which I bought when Kelly announced they were discontinuing it.

When i bought new Vandercook Sp-15 and factory refurbished Un-1 from Vandy in the '60s the recommended solvent for presses with auto washup was "mineral spirits" 'cause if you bought the exact same thing called 'Paint Thinner' the price was about 1/3 higher. We finished washup of steelrollers with a little typewash on a rag.

Joe

---

From: Eric <Megalonyx@...>
To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2011 9:43 PM
Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Need a new solvent ASAP!

 

--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:

> Thanks for the cautionary advice. It is quite clear that Coleman's Lantern Fuel is combustible, it is obviously supposed to be. So caution is observed. Safety cans, no open flames, no cigarettes.
>

Quite right. Caution doesn't need to be fear. The half-teaspoon of white gas used to clean a plate is hardly enough vapor to worry about combustion. The only anecdotal explosion I know involved degreasing an engine with white gas, in a garage with a water heater.
The only time I use enough white gas that vapors may be a problem is when soaking, cleaning and drying keyboard cams, and then windows and doors are opened for ventilation. A single magazine cleaning doesn't need nearly as much gas. If you clean multiple magazines, then, yeah, be careful.
--Eric Holub, SF

I contacted Christine's Graphic Supplies to ask about Genie's Safe N Easy and obtain it's MSDS. Don't know what I was expecting since it claims to have no harsh toxins there was nothing listed on the sheet regarding "ingredients". I was just curious what it's made of. I was also told it's "super concentrated". Now like with California Wash, which some people use out of the can but is recommended to be mixed with water...why is that not a bad idea? Wouldn't I want to keep water-soluble solvents away from a press? Though I guess if applied carefully it only should touch the rollers...

Dan Selzer

Dan,

I checked on the bottle I have and there is no ingredient list. There is an 800 number to call for "technical assistance". Early next week when I have some free time I'm going to call, because now I'm curious. I'll let you know if I find out anything worthwhile.

Whatever is in it, this product has really made clean up alot easier for me.

Sylvia

I contacted Christine's Graphic Supplies to ask about Genie's Safe N Easy and obtain it's MSDS. Don't know what I was expecting since it claims to have no harsh toxins there was nothing listed on the sheet regarding "ingredients". I was just curious what it's made of. I was also told it's "super concentrated". Now like with California Wash, which some people use out of the can but is recommended to be mixed with water...why is that not a bad idea? Wouldn't I want to keep water-soluble solvents away from a press? Though I guess if applied carefully it only should touch the rollers...

Dan Selzer

There seem to be a number of these off brand "green" solvents slipping past the
censors. No ingredients listing, no MSDS supplied. Available in stores and on
line. Very strange considering the strict regulations imposed on known
manufacturers.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, sylvia chevrier <sylviachevrier@...>
wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> I checked on the bottle I have and there is no ingredient list. There
> is an 800 number to call for "technical assistance". Early next week
> when I have some free time I'm going to call, because now I'm
> curious. I'll let you know if I find out anything worthwhile.
>
> Whatever is in it, this product has really made clean up alot easier for me.
>
> Sylvia
>
> >
> >I contacted Christine's Graphic Supplies to ask about Genie's Safe N
> >Easy and obtain it's MSDS. Don't know what I was expecting since it
> >claims to have no harsh toxins there was nothing listed on the sheet
> >regarding "ingredients". I was just curious what it's made of. I was
> >also told it's "super concentrated". Now like with California Wash,
> >which some people use out of the can but is recommended to be mixed
> >with water...why is that not a bad idea? Wouldn't I want to keep
> >water-soluble solvents away from a press? Though I guess if applied
> >carefully it only should touch the rollers...
> >
> >Dan Selzer
> >
> >
>

The Book Arts Program at the J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah now
offers a certificate in Book Arts. It is the first of its kind in the
intermountain west. The Book Arts Program offers classes in Letterpress, book
binding, and artists' books, as well as lectures and a variety of workshops. For
more information see this article!

http://unews.utah.edu/news_releases/university-of-utah-offers-book-arts-certific\
ate

 

The Book Arts Program at the J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah now offers a certificate in Book Arts. It is the first of its kind in the intermountain west. The Book Arts Program offers classes in Letterpress, book binding, and artists' books, as well as lectures and a variety of workshops. For more information see this article!

http://unews.utah.edu/news_releases/university-of-utah-offers-book-arts-certificate

Any idea on how to EASILY remove  3M's VHB tape? Anderson & Vreeland recommended
it with their green PVC material for the orbital unit. It came with no
instructions and it's totally messed up (to put it nicely) after my lame attempt
on installing it single-handedly.

Aaron

Aaron

You might try lighter fluid, that seems to work fairly well on most adhesives.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "wendtjaaron" <awendt@...> wrote:
>
> Any idea on how to EASILY remove  3M's VHB tape? Anderson & Vreeland
recommended it with their green PVC material for the orbital unit. It came with
no instructions and it's totally messed up (to put it nicely) after my lame
attempt on installing it single-handedly.
>
> Aaron
>

Aaron

Once you get it right you will likely need to seal the edging with Green Die.
Stuff is great:

http://bielerpressiv.blogspot.com/2007/02/green-die-sealer.html

Gerald


--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
>
> Aaron
>
> You might try lighter fluid, that seems to work fairly well on most adhesives.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "wendtjaaron" <awendt@> wrote:
> >
> > Any idea on how to EASILY remove  3M's VHB tape? Anderson & Vreeland
recommended it with their green PVC material for the orbital unit. It came with
no instructions and it's totally messed up (to put it nicely) after my lame
attempt on installing it single-handedly.
> >
> > Aaron
> >
>

Goo Gone is amazing.

Sent from my iPad

Here's the answer: Remove the plate from the orbiting mechanism. Use one of the
new "multi-tools" that has an oscillating blade with a fine metal cutting blade
that is offset, as not to gouge the surface. Remove as much of the tape as
possible. Then cover the plate with a layer of paper towels, and soak with MEK
(methyl ethyl keytone) for a few minutes. (IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA)  An ink
knife, putty knife or razor  scraper will remove what's left fairly easily.
Finish with very fine sand paper and a 3M Sotch-brite scouring pad. Piece of
cake. Took less than an hour.

@Gerald: I've got a bottle of the sealer. Can't wait to start using the "PVC"
green pad installed properly. I've been using shipping tape to stick the plates
to the orbiter. Not bad on Anderson-Vreelands EF95, but Boxcar's doesn't leave
as visible of an image before washout.

Thanks, all. I'm a third-generation printer starting professionally in 1973, but
away from the press actively for many years. Still have our 10x C&P Craftsman
with a Rice feeder, which we bought brand new in 1949. Washing hands more than a
busy surgeon lately.

Aaron

Aaron

Sounds like a mess, but you have documented it fairly thoroughly. We like
that!!!

Have to smile at your last comment. Once, after a talk I gave, a fellow who
thought he knew more than he knew actually said, if you are a "fine printer" how
come your hands aren't soiled from ink. Only real reply to that is, a printer
never lets his/her hands get dirty.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "wendtjaaron" <awendt@...> wrote:
>
> Here's the answer: Remove the plate from the orbiting mechanism. Use one of
the new "multi-tools" that has an oscillating blade with a fine metal cutting
blade that is offset, as not to gouge the surface. Remove as much of the tape as
possible. Then cover the plate with a layer of paper towels, and soak with MEK
(methyl ethyl keytone) for a few minutes. (IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA)  An ink
knife, putty knife or razor  scraper will remove what's left fairly easily.
Finish with very fine sand paper and a 3M Sotch-brite scouring pad. Piece of
cake. Took less than an hour.
>
> @Gerald: I've got a bottle of the sealer. Can't wait to start using the "PVC"
green pad installed properly. I've been using shipping tape to stick the plates
to the orbiter. Not bad on Anderson-Vreelands EF95, but Boxcar's doesn't leave
as visible of an image before washout.
>
> Thanks, all. I'm a third-generation printer starting professionally in 1973,
but away from the press actively for many years. Still have our 10x C&P
Craftsman with a Rice feeder, which we bought brand new in 1949. Washing hands
more than a busy surgeon lately.
>
> Aaron
>

Hello PPLetterpress group!

I have just listed an Anderson Vreeland Obital VIII A-2 plate maker on Ebay.  To
view it go to "toomuchdmg" (me as the seller) and take a look.

This plate maker was only in use for 3 yeas and then stored for 7 years.  It is
in wonderful condition as it was used lightly during the 3 years in use.

Lost my cell phone yesterday the # 530-521-1680 - to be replaced soon!
Home phone is 530-892-8528... but then my car seldom cools off lately!

Thanks
Donna Graden

Oregon College of Art & Craft is pleased to host a 1/2 day workshop with Paul
Brubaker of Bindery Tools, Denver, CO.

When: Saturday, September 24th, 9:30am-1:30pm
Where: Book Arts Studio, Oregon College of Art & Craft   www.ocac.edu
Workshop fee: $50

Paul will discuss and demonstrate the adjustment, honing and maintenance of
OCAC's board shears, guillotines and other equipment. He plans to spend time
with each of the participants, answering questions about their personal
equipment. Bring photos/diagrams/info. of your equipment to aid his
understanding of your questions.

Please send an email to btetenbaum@... to reserve a spot
followed by a check for $50 made out to: "Oregon College of Art & Craft"

send to:

Barb Tetenbaum c/o OCAC
8245 SW Barnes Rd.
Portland, OR 97225


Please share this announcement amongst your friends/colleagues.

Best,
Barb Tetenbaum

Hello,

Does anyone have an opinion on which material would print solids better,
linoleum block or photopolymer?

I have some artwork that I am preparing to send out for processing into
photopolymer. The artwork has a few areas of large simple solid shapes. If
linoleum would get better ink transfer then I would try it. If they are the same
or if photopolymer is better then I would save the carving time and buy the
plates.

thanks,
bryan

Hi Bryan

Are you working on a cylinder press or platen?

I'm not sure if there's a lot of difference in which surface will print better.
Certainly it's as much about the press, the ink and the paper as about the
relief material.

>> a few areas of large simple solid shapes

How large is large?

If you're doing really substantial areas, dampen the stock. It makes all the
difference!

P


Peter Fraterdeus
Exquisite letterpress takes time™
http://slowprint.com/
tweet: @slowprint

IdeasWords : Idea Swords
Communication Strategy
Semiotx.com  @ideaswords

On 19 Sep 2011, at 5:08 PM, bryan kring wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on which material would print solids better,
linoleum block or photopolymer?
>
> I have some artwork that I am preparing to send out for processing into
photopolymer. The artwork has a few areas of large simple solid shapes. If
linoleum would get better ink transfer then I would try it. If they are the same
or if photopolymer is better then I would save the carving time and buy the
plates.
>
> thanks,
> bryan
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Thanks,

My press is a platen, a 10x15 C&P.

The largest shape is about 5"x5". In a separate color, there are several 1"x1"
shapes that will print on top of the larger solid. line art will print over all
of the solids.

The paper will be heavyweight (285 gsm) printmaking paper and I plan on
dampening it before printing.


As a separate question:

In the past, my designs have usually been detailed work with tight registration.
I am trying to learn to use more overprinting. I searched the web but didn't see
any good sources of info on this. I would be interested in reading about
overprinting text or line art on top of solids. For example, the difference in
printing line art on top of a printed solid versus printing onto blank paper and
the challenges of printing text or line partially on and partially off of a
solid shape. I think I will learn a lot as I try to print this project. My
initial assumption is to print the solid shapes first with a light impression so
that when I print the line art on top of it I have some cushion to press into.

Any other advice or links to more info or good examples on overprinting would be
very much appreciated.

bryan kring



--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Fraterdeus <peterf@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Bryan
>
> Are you working on a cylinder press or platen?
>
> I'm not sure if there's a lot of difference in which surface will print
better.
> Certainly it's as much about the press, the ink and the paper as about the
relief material.
>
> >> a few areas of large simple solid shapes
>
> How large is large?
>
> If you're doing really substantial areas, dampen the stock. It makes all the
difference!
>
> P
>
>
> Peter Fraterdeus
> Exquisite letterpress takes time™
> http://slowprint.com/
> tweet: @slowprint
>
> IdeasWords : Idea Swords
> Communication Strategy
> Semiotx.com  @ideaswords
>
> On 19 Sep 2011, at 5:08 PM, bryan kring wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > Does anyone have an opinion on which material would print solids better,
linoleum block or photopolymer?
> >
> > I have some artwork that I am preparing to send out for processing into
photopolymer. The artwork has a few areas of large simple solid shapes. If
linoleum would get better ink transfer then I would try it. If they are the same
or if photopolymer is better then I would save the carving time and buy the
plates.
> >
> > thanks,
> > bryan
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

Hi Bryan

Yeah, printing a 5x5" solid on a 10x15" will be pushing the limits of that press
for sure.
You will not get a lot of impression across that much surface, of course.
Dampening will help. If it's a light color the effect should be fine. The darker
the color, the less solid it appears given the same inking. Platen presses are
not great for this type of work, since the surface hits all at once... But you
probably know that ;-)

Printing over that surface should not be a problem unless you're using rubber
base inks, in which case the second ink will take forever to dry. With oil-based
inks this is not an issue at all.
Assuming your fine-art paper is not coated, you shouldn't have problems with
offsetting.

Sounds like you're on the right path!
Let us know how it goes!

Cheers

Peter

Peter Fraterdeus
Exquisite letterpress takes time™
http://slowprint.com/
tweet: @slowprint

IdeasWords : Idea Swords
Communication Strategy
Semiotx.com  @ideaswords

On 19 Sep 2011, at 6:33 PM, bryan kring wrote:

> Thanks,
>
> My press is a platen, a 10x15 C&P.
>
> The largest shape is about 5"x5". In a separate color, there are several 1"x1"
shapes that will print on top of the larger solid. line art will print over all
of the solids.
>
> The paper will be heavyweight (285 gsm) printmaking paper and I plan on
dampening it before printing.
>
>
> As a separate question:
>
> In the past, my designs have usually been detailed work with tight
registration. I am trying to learn to use more overprinting. I searched the web
but didn't see any good sources of info on this. I would be interested in
reading about overprinting text or line art on top of solids. For example, the
difference in printing line art on top of a printed solid versus printing onto
blank paper and the challenges of printing text or line partially on and
partially off of a solid shape. I think I will learn a lot as I try to print
this project. My initial assumption is to print the solid shapes first with a
light impression so that when I print the line art on top of it I have some
cushion to press into.
>
> Any other advice or links to more info or good examples on overprinting would
be very much appreciated.
>
> bryan kring
>
>
>
> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Peter Fraterdeus <peterf@...> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Bryan
>>
>> Are you working on a cylinder press or platen?
>>
>> I'm not sure if there's a lot of difference in which surface will print
better.
>> Certainly it's as much about the press, the ink and the paper as about the
relief material.
>>
>>>> a few areas of large simple solid shapes
>>
>> How large is large?
>>
>> If you're doing really substantial areas, dampen the stock. It makes all the
difference!
>>
>> P
>>
>>
>> Peter Fraterdeus
>> Exquisite letterpress takes time™
>> http://slowprint.com/
>> tweet: @slowprint
>>
>> IdeasWords : Idea Swords
>> Communication Strategy
>> Semiotx.com  @ideaswords
>>
>> On 19 Sep 2011, at 5:08 PM, bryan kring wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have an opinion on which material would print solids better,
linoleum block or photopolymer?
>>>
>>> I have some artwork that I am preparing to send out for processing into
photopolymer. The artwork has a few areas of large simple solid shapes. If
linoleum would get better ink transfer then I would try it. If they are the same
or if photopolymer is better then I would save the carving time and buy the
plates.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> bryan
>>>