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Thursday, September 18, 2008 - Page updated at 12:00 AM

Rich Native American heritage on display at local casino resorts

Casino resorts for the Suquamish, Tulalip and Quinault tribes celebrate
Native American culture through museum-quality artwork, and their
orientation to Northwest natural wonders.

By Jackie Smith

Special to the Seattle Times

AGATE PASSAGE — The deck on our waterfront room was like a reviewing stand
from which we watched an afternoon parade of pleasure craft and fishing
boats traveling this tidal strait between Bainbridge Island and the Kitsap
Peninsula.

Near the resort's towering totem pole, a fellow guest and her dog raced
across the expansive lawn toward the beach. Later, children roasting
marshmallows at the jumbo fire pit provided the entertainment.

This wasn't the casino resort we knew from the Vegas Strip, with neon
lights, flash, glamour — I mean ... that's Vegas, baby! This year, with 27
tribal casinos in Washington, some with lodging, we decided to gamble and
try a few closer-to-home destinations. What we found in addition to the
expected Vegas-style games, both table and machine, were family-friendly,
top-of-the-line, luxurious accommodations, some in stunning natural
settings. Museum-quality Native American art and craft displays were
bonuses — introductions to the Pacific Northwest's rich tribal heritage.

Suquamish Clearwater Casino Resort

We hit the jackpot at the Clearwater, an 85-room boutique hotel on the tip
of the Kitsap Peninsula, only a bridge span from Bainbridge Island. The
contemporary Northwest lodge-style hotel at the water's edge is hidden
behind its cavernous casino and parking garage just off Highway 305.

Towering wood-carved female and male figures welcomed us at the entry.
Inside, suspended from the ceiling, an enormous woven Salish fish-gathering
basket and canoe dominated the Great Room, an area serving as lobby,
breakfast room and gallery for its collection of woodcarvings, glass
sculpture, weavings and paintings. Each piece seems to tell a part of the
story of the Suquamish people (whose name means "clear saltwater") and
their culture. Self-guided tours are a snap; explanations of the work are
provided.

Our water-view "premium" room was worth the higher cost ($20 to $30 more
than basic rooms in the October "shoulder" season). Less expensive rooms,
sans decks, face the casino and parking lot. Each room has an array of
amenities ranging from a 32-inch flat-screen HD television, free Internet,
plush bedding, thick towels and robes, microwave and refrigerator, to
stemmed wine glasses and bottle opener. A large continental buffet
breakfast was included.

The resort's design capitalizes on its surroundings. Spectacular views of
evergreens and water can be had from the Angeline Spa, the "zero-entry"
(no-edge) pool, and nearby oversized hot tub.

"This is the best," said guest Cindy Parsons, of Tukwila, sampling the pool
lounge. "It has the beach ... the pool. Once you are here, you don't even
realize there is a casino nearby."

Restaurants are in the casino. Children (with parents) are allowed in the
eateries. Our dinner at Cedar Steakhouse, the small, fine-dining restaurant
patterned after a tribal longhouse, was a celebration of Northwest cuisine,
such as baked salmon served on a 2-inch-thick cedar plank ($21) and a
wild-mushroom-crusted halibut ($24). Room service is available.

Allow time to:

• Visit the Suquamish Museum, a half-mile from the resort, and the grave of
Chief Sealth (for whom Seattle was named) in the village of Suquamish,
about 1.5 miles away. Get directions at the front desk.

• Ride the resort's free shuttle between the Winslow ferry dock and the
casino. Walk a few blocks and explore the quaint waterfront town.

Tulalip Resort Casino

From the Gallery Lounge to the side of the Tulalip Casino Resort's vast
main lobby, I watched a toddler wobble toward the massive trio of "story
poles" at the entry of this mega-resort, north of Seattle, that this summer
added a hotel. Squealing, arms outstretched, he fell suddenly silent as he
gazed toward the ceiling, taking in the symbols carved out of what was once
a towering red cedar.

While he admired the images on the poles (also called "house posts")
representing welcome, storytelling and game-playing, I explored the
displays of Coast Salish art — woven baskets, carvings and paintings — that
fill cases and decorate the walls of this warmed-by-the-fireplace quiet
spot. It was so peaceful that it didn't seem possible an enormous casino
was just down the hall.

Creators of the sleek 12-story conference hotel used color and design to
celebrate the Pacific Northwest and the Tulalips' heritage. The importance
of the earth and elements, fish and wildlife, resonate throughout the dιcor
and art displays.

The "T-Spa" is like a forest setting, with smooth river rocks, pale and
papery birch branches, moss and stone at every turn. Color-therapy
technology enhances the sensory experience by changing the lighting between
red, blue, green and purple with the flick of a switch.

"It is designed to remind you we are the Northwest," explains Norma Hughes,
spa director. "We are not Bali or Honolulu." She pointed out designs in the
hardwood floors that represent river and islands, the stream and river
suggesting life's journey.

The influence of tribal artists is evident throughout the hotel's
contemporary design. Elevator lobbies on guest-room floors feature large
carved "comb" wall pieces, inspired by those once worn in the hair of
Tulalip women. Salmon, representing the cycle of life, along with
mountains, lakes and bear tracks are woven into hallway carpets.

Floor-to-ceiling windows make the oversized guest rooms seem even larger
than they are — none smaller than 500 square feet, and all nonsmoking.
Italian tile and granite bathrooms feature adjustable-spray spa showers.
The bed is so plush you might not want to leave it — or the 47-inch
flat-screen television it faces. Among an array of room amenities are a
small refrigerator and free, wireless Internet. The higher the guest room,
the better the panoramic views of Mount Baker and the Cascades.

Just off the casino, two side-by-side restaurants offer high-end dining.
The award-winning Tulalip Bay, home of chef Dean Shinagawa, is open
Wednesday through Sunday evenings. A new seafood bistro, BlackFish, where
salmon is prepared using a Tulalip cooking technique over an open fire pit
with ironwood sticks, is open every evening. A coffee shop and a more
casual restaurant open off the hotel lobby.

Allow time to:

• Shop till you drop at 110 designer and name-brand stores at the adjacent
Seattle Premium Outlets mall, a 15-minute stroll from the hotel (or you can
ride the shuttle).

• Ride the shuttle to the sister resort, Quil Ceda Creek Nightclub and
Casino.

• Or laze in a tropical setting at the Tulalip's Oasis Pool and hot tub,
with indoor and outdoor patios.

Quinault Beach Resort and Casino

We followed the boardwalk from the hotel over the sand dunes and beach
grass to a seemingly endless flat beach where children raced past us
laughing at the dips and sways of their kite as it strained against the
breeze. Our late-summer visit fell on a day of filtered sun, the kind that
invites beach walking, shell- or soul-searching, horseback riding and kite
flying.

Earlier, on the long, winding entry drive through lush wetlands, the only
hint we were heading to a casino was the speed-limit signs: "21" miles per
hour. (Get it? It's a card game.)

The Quinault Beach Resort and Casino at Ocean Shores has that sandy, salty,
windblown outdoors feel of a beach resort. And while art and crafts
displays aren't as prevalent, the lodge capitalizes on its location, making
a guest wonder whether beach or casino is the biggest draw.

After miles of beach, we savored the seafood club sandwich piled high with
crab and shrimp and accompanied by chowder, a blend of clams, smoked trout
and herbs served in Emily's, the resort's ocean-view restaurant. A sushi
bar operates Wednesday through Sunday evenings. Reservations are advised
for Friday's land-and-sea buffet or the Sunday brunch.

The waterfront rooms cost more per night but have straight-on views of the
beach. The glass slider to the French balcony — that small,
can't-really-stand-outside type — when open, invites the sound of the waves
and ocean breezes. In stormy weather, flip the room's fireplace switch and
curl up on the couch near the window or snuggle up in the luxurious bed.

Allow time for:

• Using the resort's indoor pool and full-service spa.

• Riding the free shuttle to nearby Ocean Shores to explore its many
restaurants, gift shops and equipment rental (bikes to boats) stores.

Freelance writer Jackie Smith, of Kirkland, is a regular contributor to
NWWeekend. Contact her: travelnwrite@...

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