Hi-

We have unexpected modifications on our campjon. Mister inspector
(guy who registers boats) told that we have to make floatation boxes
with Holt covers to register the boat. So I`m working on it, closing
about half a space under bow deck, and all space under aft deck,
covering back access hole. This gives about 180 liters of  floatation
reserve. I'll send pictures of that detail soon.

Another thing is discovery that boat has no stiffness: when I rise
one corner about 1-1/4 inch, three other ones are still lying on the
floor.  Is it all right? Campjoners? Jonsboaters? Anyway I decided to
add another sheet of plywood on the floor, laminating it with epoxy,
what should help the boat survive on Vistula rocks and sunken trees,
either.

-Wojtek

I have used epoxy in these temps, I seem to recall, but it was the fast
version of the regular Raka hardener. Was ok. I've found that the pumps
can sputter in cold weather, which is annoying and messy. Perhaps I
tried to go too fast. You could maybe take the epoxy containers inside
until you were ready to use them, but maybe the stuff would set too
fast. At least it would be less viscous. Worth trying. Pouring out into
cups is also annoying and messy. Be really careful with that space
heater, as it could be an ignition source if something fell on it or got
into it. I worked with a boatbuilder who would put up a polyethylene
tent around his layups at the end of the day, with a space heater to
take it up to about 90F. Worked very well, hard cured the next day, or
at least hard enough.

I have heard of an epoxy mixing trick where you make a balance beam with
the pivot in the right place, balanced when you have a plastic cup on
each side, and capable of only limited movement. Could be just a stick
with a pivot (maybe a dowel) glued on the bottom, and a cup on each end
to hold the cups, but it's important to have the pivot in the right
place to preserve the right ratio BY WEIGHT. (ratio by weight will not
be the same as by volume,  for instance I seem to recall an epoxy which
is 44:100 by weight and 1:2 by volume). You put resin in the cup closest
to the pivot, then add hardener to the other cup until it falls. Then mix.

>Eric S. wrote:
>Hello
>
>I am looking at using the RAKA 425 hardener for my
>AF4G project. I am located in upstate NY. Avg temps
>for October is about 55 to 65 for hi and 35 to 45 for
>low.
>
>Is this too cold for epoxy? I can probably move the
>boat into the unheated garage and use a small
>electrice space heater to warm the boat as needed.
>
>Are the Epoxy Bottle pumps worth buying?
>
>Cups?
>
>I am thinking of using the following for fiberglass;
>
>
>- 6" wide 6 oz. tape - (50 yards for $25.00) to tape
>the chine logs/seams and external butt joints seams.
>Maybe use two layers on the underwater parts.
>
>- 8.75 oz glass for the bottom and to wrap above the
>chine logs a few inches/above the water line.
>
>Thanks
>
>eric s
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>

--- Michalak@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> Message: 3
>    Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:00:32 -0700 (PDT)
>    From: eric S <u23b_2311@...>
> Subject: Raka 425 Epoxy
>
> Hello
>
> I am looking at using the RAKA 425 hardener for my
> AF4G project. I am located in upstate NY. Avg temps
> for October is about 55 to 65 for hi and 35 to 45
> for
> low.
>
> Is this too cold for epoxy? I can probably move the
> boat into the unheated garage and use a small
> electrice space heater to warm the boat as needed.
>
> Are the Epoxy Bottle pumps worth buying?
>
> Cups?
>

I used the Raka cold weather epoxy through the winter
here in Ala., with temps similar to your Oct. temps.
In terms of curing, the epoxy did fine, even when
working at the lower end of the temperature range,
around 40 F. The difficulty is that the cold weather
epoxy is thick, and the viscosity increases as it gets
colder. At the upper end of the temperature range, be
sure to mix small quantities as it will set quickly.

In cold weather, it will do fine for gluing, but for
coating wood, it won't penetrate much (unless
thinned), and even then will go on thickly enough that
it will tend to run. It's also a little bit more
difficult to wet out fiberglass with thicker epoxy. I
wound up with a few bubbles I had to cut out and fill
with epoxy putty in the taped seams I did in colder
weather.

The cold weather epoxy is also too thick to use with
pumps. You'll need to just measure by volume. Since it
is so thick, you'll also need to me sure to mix well.
Give it the full two minute stir before using.

Regards,
Tidmarsh
Tuscaloosa, Ala.

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Hi Group
I have posted another variation of the Grande in the Photo only 2
photo section.  It is a downeast style cabin that would go on top of
the boat as designed, quite simple and gives weather protection.  It
would not be too hard to add a full canvas over the cockpit.

Steve Bosquette

Eric

The bottle pumps have my vote, but I also measure into cups to double
check the volume.  I find the pumps provide a more accurate and less
messy way for me to dispense the epoxy than trying to pour from a
gallon jug into a plastic cup as viewed through trifocals. True, the
pumps don't work too well when the epoxy is cold and thick so I warm
the epoxy jugs with the pumps attached before each session.

A benefit I didn't think about before buying the pumps is the
convenience of having epoxy handy at all times.  In warm weather, I
can quickly grab a cup and squirt out the right amounts of epoxy, mix
it up, add thickener if needed, and make quick repairs.
Bob P




--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, eric S <u23b_2311@y...> wrote:
> Hello
>
> I am looking at using the RAKA 425 hardener for my
> AF4G project. I am located in upstate NY. Avg temps
> for October is about 55 to 65 for hi and 35 to 45 for
> low.

> Are the Epoxy Bottle pumps worth buying?
>
> Cups?
>

> Thanks
>
> eric s
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
> http://shopping.yahoo.com

What boat is on the homepage of this group?  AF4 or AF4 Grande?

Steve Bosquette

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Bosquette" <SBOSQUETTE@C...>
wrote:
> What boat is on the homepage of this group?  AF4 or AF4 Grande?
>
> Steve Bosquette





PK-20


Max

Could someone tell me what the difference is between an AF4, AF4
Grande and a PK-20. Enquiring minds want to know.

Bryant

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "vexatious2001" <cadbury@s...> wrote:
> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Bosquette"
<SBOSQUETTE@C...>
> wrote:
> > What boat is on the homepage of this group?  AF4 or AF4 Grande?
> >
> > Steve Bosquette
>
>
>
>
>
> PK-20
>
>
> Max

> Another thing is discovery that boat has no stiffness: when I rise
> one corner about 1-1/4 inch, three other ones are still lying on the
> floor.  Is it all right? Campjoners? Jonsboaters? Anyway I decided
to
> add another sheet of plywood on the floor, laminating it with epoxy,
> what should help the boat survive on Vistula rocks and sunken trees,
> either.
>
> -Wojtek




The second sheet of plywood will stiffen it up, at
a cost in weight and maybe speed.

Other changes that might help would be adding an extra
lamination to the gunnels, and/or adding a deeper "keel"
underneath the hull.

That amount of flex is probably not big problem.  I have
followed Jim M when he used to trailer his AF4 on a trailer
with transvers bunks that gave little support to the
stern of the boat, and I noticed that the stern-end of the boat
would "waggle" a bit back and forth as it rolled down the road.

I believe that the campjohn from the southern Hemesphere has
had a bit of reinforcing done to the transom- I believe ther
are some photos posted somewhere around these groups.


Max

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "b_owen_ca" <mariner@n...> wrote:
> Could someone tell me what the difference is between an AF4, AF4
> Grande and a PK-20. Enquiring minds want to know.
>
> Bryant
>
>


The PK-20 was designed by a West-coast designer as
sort-of an "in-between" boat;  bigger than AF4, but
a bit smaller that AF4G, with a bow cockpit added,
along with some other modifications.

The designer-builder occasionally stops by this
group.


Max

Wojtek,
I have never done the "lift one corner" test so I can't really say if it
flexes or not. I did notice that the boat was lacking stiffness until the
cabin beams, front deck and outboard well were installed. It seemed OK after
that.

luke S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "wwbaginski" <citystudio@...>
To: <Michalak@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 10:57 PM
Subject: [Michalak] hull stiffness


> Hi-
>
> We have unexpected modifications on our campjon. Mister inspector
> (guy who registers boats) told that we have to make floatation boxes
> with Holt covers to register the boat. So I`m working on it, closing
> about half a space under bow deck, and all space under aft deck,
> covering back access hole. This gives about 180 liters of  floatation
> reserve. I'll send pictures of that detail soon.
>
> Another thing is discovery that boat has no stiffness: when I rise
> one corner about 1-1/4 inch, three other ones are still lying on the
> floor.  Is it all right? Campjoners? Jonsboaters? Anyway I decided to
> add another sheet of plywood on the floor, laminating it with epoxy,
> what should help the boat survive on Vistula rocks and sunken trees,
> either.
>
> -Wojtek
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Michalak-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

What state is this 'Mister' inspector in????

I have known some very annoying inspector types in my time.

doc

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "malomac" <Malomac@y...> wrote:
> What state is this 'Mister' inspector in????
>



Wojtek is building his boat in Poland.

Off-hand, I really don't know if Poland is
divided-up into States or Provinces or
such.


max

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "malomac" <Malomac@y...> wrote:
> What state is this 'Mister' inspector in????
>
> I have known some very annoying inspector types in my time.
>
> doc

Thanks for informations about stiffness problem. In fact there are
still a few elements to add to the structure, and than we'll see.

As for Mr inspector, here in Poland we have some persons from
Powerboating Association entitled to examine and register boats. I
gave set of plans to one of them  on the beginning, but the only
thing he want is to see the boat ready. I asked him at last about
floatation boxes being not sure either of registration procedures or
safety on water. Then he told me the rules. Not earlier. Now I wonder
for how many persons will he register the boat? I'd like to have
registration for  3 persons. How about your boats, Luke and Adam?

Anyway reconstruction  goes on, and gives opportunity to change sort
of campjon's power, as you can see at a few pictures showing
construction of floatation boxes on campjon, just posted to files
section as: campjon.pl mods.

-Wojtek

Wojtek,
registration here is simple. I went  to the MainRoads Dept (they handle all
private vehicle and vessel registration), told them I had built a boat and
gave them the length and type. They gave me a construction number for the
boat and then I paid the registration, around $50.00.

They weren't interested in how many people it carried or seeing the boat at
all. Same story with Twang. I don't have any floatation in my Campjon,
rather stupid of me I guess but I might install some under the motor well to
compensate for the weight of the motor should the boat swamp.

Back to the stiffness issue, you will find that boat won't gain full
rigidity until it's completed. I remember worrying about this myself when I
was constructing mine, very floppy. The cabin tops and beams made quite a
difference, as well as the foredeck.

Luke S.


----- Original Message -----
From: "wwbaginski" <citystudio@...>
To: <Michalak@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 9:42 AM
Subject: [Michalak] Re: Mister inspector?


> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "malomac" <Malomac@y...> wrote:
> > What state is this 'Mister' inspector in????
> >
> > I have known some very annoying inspector types in my time.
> >
> > doc
>
> Thanks for informations about stiffness problem. In fact there are
> still a few elements to add to the structure, and than we'll see.
>
> As for Mr inspector, here in Poland we have some persons from
> Powerboating Association entitled to examine and register boats. I
> gave set of plans to one of them  on the beginning, but the only
> thing he want is to see the boat ready. I asked him at last about
> floatation boxes being not sure either of registration procedures or
> safety on water. Then he told me the rules. Not earlier. Now I wonder
> for how many persons will he register the boat? I'd like to have
> registration for  3 persons. How about your boats, Luke and Adam?
>
> Anyway reconstruction  goes on, and gives opportunity to change sort
> of campjon's power, as you can see at a few pictures showing
> construction of floatation boxes on campjon, just posted to files
> section as: campjon.pl mods.
>
> -Wojtek
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Michalak-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

I have been thinking about building a small sailboat to learn to sail
in for some time now.  There are sooooo many plans and designs it's
hard to choose.  I have been looking at Mr. Michalak's plans for a
year or better now, and I still haven't pulled the trigger.  Just
never hit upon "the one" (well first one).  So lately I have been
drawn to the Bolger oldshoe.  It looks like a perfect daysailor, and
it has many features I really like, but I don't like the 20" draft.
I live in the midwest and will be using the boat in some shallow
waters, and I don't know if that 20" draft will be a problem.  I have
mostly been out in canoes and aluminum fishing boats, and I can't
guess what 20" draft would be like.  And how hard will it be to
trailer and embark with such a keel?

So while this is somewhat rhetorical, has Jim ever drawn up a plan
for oldshoe as a leeboarder?  I mean I haven't ever seen any of his
plans that would be defined as such.  He does such a great job with
his AF series and musicbox's and birdwatcher designs, I guess I was
hoping for a shoal-draft open boat.  The main thing I like about
oldshoe is the high sides with bench seating, and still room to move
about. And the yawl rig. And,... well you get the idea.

Any discussion is appreciated.

I feel a good place to start is by really defining the waters you will
be sailing on, the conditions you will be sailing in, and how much stuff
you really are taking with you. So often people (including myself) build
the wrong boat for their needs. It can be hard to know until you're out
there on a regular basis, that's why I suggest you tell the group about
your intended sailing and let us throw suggestions at you.

Oldshoe has the 20" draft that forces you to keep the boat out in hip
deep water when beaching, not a problem in warm waters or if you have no
beaches to land on, but without docks or in cold water...... how ya
going to get from ship to shore?  The launching - retrieving can be
dealt with by keeping the boat low on the trailer, building a trailer
with a long tongue and perhaps a tongue extension. That 200 pounds of
lead hanging below that wide flat hull makes for a very stable platform,
take it off to get beachability and launchability and you'll have to
give up those nice bench seats....

Rick-



jlwags_1 wrote:

> I have been thinking about building a small sailboat to learn to sail
> in for some time now.  There are sooooo many plans and designs it's
> hard to choose.  I have been looking at Mr. Michalak's plans for a
> year or better now, and I still haven't pulled the trigger.  Just
> never hit upon "the one" (well first one).  So lately I have been
> drawn to the Bolger oldshoe.  It looks like a perfect daysailor, and
> it has many features I really like, but I don't like the 20" draft.
> I live in the midwest and will be using the boat in some shallow
> waters, and I don't know if that 20" draft will be a problem.  I have
> mostly been out in canoes and aluminum fishing boats, and I can't
> guess what 20" draft would be like.  And how hard will it be to
> trailer and embark with such a keel?
>
> So while this is somewhat rhetorical, has Jim ever drawn up a plan
> for oldshoe as a leeboarder?  I mean I haven't ever seen any of his
> plans that would be defined as such.  He does such a great job with
> his AF series and musicbox's and birdwatcher designs, I guess I was
> hoping for a shoal-draft open boat.  The main thing I like about
> oldshoe is the high sides with bench seating, and still room to move
> about. And the yawl rig. And,... well you get the idea.
>
> Any discussion is appreciated.
>
>
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>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have built a Piccup Pram that I really enjoy sailing and am
considering a trailerable camper for river cruising, lakes and bays.
I like the simplicity of the Jewelbox and Petesboat and would like to
discuss the handling characteristics of the larger sailing scows.
Has anyone built and cruised one of these boats?

sctree wrote:
> That 200 pounds of
> lead hanging below that wide flat hull makes for a very stable platform,
> take it off to get beachability and launchability and you'll have to
> give up those nice bench seats....
>
> Rick-

It would still be more stable than most and make a good little boat ( maybe w/ 
a shorter
rig);  just not up to the 3 heavy adults and a German Shepherd sailing 4 - 5
foot breaking
seas once advertised for the original.  An alternative, if the deep body is
wanted, might
be the new, longer version of the Brick.

Mark

Hey! That's MY photo! The nerve of some people... <harumph> ;o)

That's neither an AF4 nor an AF4 Grande, that's Pat Patteson's 20' PK-20,
which was inspired by the AF4, but ended up quite a bit different.

On Thu, 02 Oct 2003 02:20:50 -0000, Steve Bosquette wrote:
> What boat is on the homepage of this group?  AF4 or AF4 Grande?

--
                          John <jkohnen@...>
                           http://www.boat-links.com/
He got hold of the red meat of the language and turned it into hamburgers.
                    <Richard Gordon on Ernest Hemingway>

First off, I realize all boats are a compromise if you want to do
more than one thing with them. My water experience has been limited
to canoes and small aluminum fishing boats. So here is what I think
my requirements are.

1) I'm not sure what my requirements are or what I will like and not
like, so the boat needs to be quicker and cheaper to build.
2) I've built an Oughtred glue-lap canoe, and I think one day I will
want to build one of his small cruisers.
3) This boat should be a good boat to learn to sail in.
4) I would prefer nail/screw/glue with minimal use of epoxy and/or
fiberglass.
5) Beside sailing, want a small motor so the boat can also be used
on lakes for fishing.  In this capacity, I would like to be able to
stand some and not sit on the floor.  Sitting on the floor of a
sailboat has never appealed to me.  I realize the implications here,
pretty much substituting lead ballast for my butt.  I don't want or
need a bass boat to jump around in, and the motor doesn't need to
move me far or fast.
6) Ultimately moving my wife, rambunctious 60# dog (a Vizsla)and
some camping gear around flowages in Northern Wisconsin to various
camp sites and fishing, with the canoe in tow. (This is what I'm
envisioning now, but it may or may not happen)

So, there you go, and thanks for any input.
John

And I didn't specifically mention the water.  Lakes of any size with
a boat ramp in Wisconsin. Rivers possibly, but probably larger
flowages on rivers.  Depending on my knowledge and ability and the
boat maybe a little time on protected waters close to shore on nice
days in bays of Lakes Michigan and Superior; but probably that will
wait for a bigger boat.


>
> So, there you go, and thanks for any input.
> John

John:

You might consider Jim Michalak's Mayfly 16:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jim/mayfly16/
It is simple nail and glue construction, has a well for a small motor, and
is big enough to be stable when standing up. It has the bench seating that
you mentioned liking too.  If it were me, I would take a folding chair to
sit in while fishing, though.

Chuck



> First off, I realize all boats are a compromise if you want to do
> more than one thing with them. My water experience has been limited
> to canoes and small aluminum fishing boats. So here is what I think
> my requirements are.
>
> 1) I'm not sure what my requirements are or what I will like and not
> like, so the boat needs to be quicker and cheaper to build.
> 2) I've built an Oughtred glue-lap canoe, and I think one day I will
> want to build one of his small cruisers.
> 3) This boat should be a good boat to learn to sail in.
> 4) I would prefer nail/screw/glue with minimal use of epoxy and/or
> fiberglass.
> 5) Beside sailing, want a small motor so the boat can also be used
> on lakes for fishing.  In this capacity, I would like to be able to
> stand some and not sit on the floor.  Sitting on the floor of a
> sailboat has never appealed to me.  I realize the implications here,
> pretty much substituting lead ballast for my butt.  I don't want or
> need a bass boat to jump around in, and the motor doesn't need to
> move me far or fast.
> 6) Ultimately moving my wife, rambunctious 60# dog (a Vizsla)and
> some camping gear around flowages in Northern Wisconsin to various
> camp sites and fishing, with the canoe in tow. (This is what I'm
> envisioning now, but it may or may not happen)
>
> So, there you go, and thanks for any input.
> John
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Michalak-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Luke-

I'm going to install motor board now, and to locate it inside the
hull, actually between vertical frame sticks of transom . Tell me
please if the space between bulkhead  14 and motor board allows for
such a solution? I mean using average 15 hp outboard? It is better in
my case to install motor board on  inner side of transom than outer
side.

Please give me your comments. I hope you guys in Australia don't
sleep at all? Thanks and regards.

-Wojtek

Has the Mayfly 16 been built?   No pictures that I
could find....

Bill


--- Chuck Leinweber <chuck@...>
wrote:
> John:
>
> You might consider Jim Michalak's Mayfly 16:
>
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jim/mayfly16/
> It is simple nail and glue construction, has a well
> for a small motor, and
> is big enough to be stable when standing up. It has
> the bench seating that
> you mentioned liking too.  If it were me, I would
> take a folding chair to
> sit in while fishing, though.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> > First off, I realize all boats are a compromise if
> you want to do
> > more than one thing with them. My water experience
> has been limited
> > to canoes and small aluminum fishing boats. So
> here is what I think
> > my requirements are.
> >
> > 1) I'm not sure what my requirements are or what I
> will like and not
> > like, so the boat needs to be quicker and cheaper
> to build.
> > 2) I've built an Oughtred glue-lap canoe, and I
> think one day I will
> > want to build one of his small cruisers.
> > 3) This boat should be a good boat to learn to
> sail in.
> > 4) I would prefer nail/screw/glue with minimal use
> of epoxy and/or
> > fiberglass.
> > 5) Beside sailing, want a small motor so the boat
> can also be used
> > on lakes for fishing.  In this capacity, I would
> like to be able to
> > stand some and not sit on the floor.  Sitting on
> the floor of a
> > sailboat has never appealed to me.  I realize the
> implications here,
> > pretty much substituting lead ballast for my butt.
>  I don't want or
> > need a bass boat to jump around in, and the motor
> doesn't need to
> > move me far or fast.
> > 6) Ultimately moving my wife, rambunctious 60# dog
> (a Vizsla)and
> > some camping gear around flowages in Northern
> Wisconsin to various
> > camp sites and fishing, with the canoe in tow.
> (This is what I'm
> > envisioning now, but it may or may not happen)
> >
> > So, there you go, and thanks for any input.
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Michalak-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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>


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Have you considered putting a sail on your canoe? I know that some of
Oughtred's canoe designs are drawn with rigs. I built a clamp-on mast
step/partner and leeboard earlier this summer for my canoe and have
enjoyed sailing it in 5 - 15 mph winds (well, 15 was a bit more
"exciting" than I was comfortable with). It doesn't take much sail
area to drive a canoe and the ease of set-up is hard to beat. It
would be a quick way to get a taste of sailing with a boat you
already have.

- Rob

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "jlwags_1" <jlwags_1@n...> wrote:
> First off, I realize all boats are a compromise if you want to do
> more than one thing with them. My water experience has been limited
> to canoes and small aluminum fishing boats. So here is what I think
> my requirements are.
>
> 1) I'm not sure what my requirements are or what I will like and
not
> like, so the boat needs to be quicker and cheaper to build.
> 2) I've built an Oughtred glue-lap canoe, and I think one day I
will
> want to build one of his small cruisers.
> 3) This boat should be a good boat to learn to sail in.
> 4) I would prefer nail/screw/glue with minimal use of epoxy and/or
> fiberglass.
> 5) Beside sailing, want a small motor so the boat can also be used
> on lakes for fishing.  In this capacity, I would like to be able to
> stand some and not sit on the floor.  Sitting on the floor of a
> sailboat has never appealed to me.  I realize the implications
here,
> pretty much substituting lead ballast for my butt.  I don't want or
> need a bass boat to jump around in, and the motor doesn't need to
> move me far or fast.
> 6) Ultimately moving my wife, rambunctious 60# dog (a Vizsla)and
> some camping gear around flowages in Northern Wisconsin to various
> camp sites and fishing, with the canoe in tow. (This is what I'm
> envisioning now, but it may or may not happen)
>
> So, there you go, and thanks for any input.
> John

Beats me.  Max?

chuck


> Has the Mayfly 16 been built?   No pictures that I
> could find....
>
> Bill

Hi Group
I have revised the drawing in the Photo only 2 section of the
Downeast version.  By moving the helm station into the cockpit I made
romm for enclosed head and galley.  The double berth sections fold
back for legroom access to the forward hatch or walkthru whichever I
decide to do. The top of the dash, which goes the full width ,lifts
up and is bifold against the inside of the windshield for access to
the cabin.  The access to the head is from the cockpit to separate it
from the sleeping area.
I have finally decided to build the Grande and start making sawdust
tomorrow!

Steve Bosquette

Sawdust is a good thing. What are you going to use on the roof of the cabin?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm planning to use 1/4 luan covered in glass and epoxy

Steve

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, vectorges@a... wrote:
> Sawdust is a good thing. What are you going to use on the roof of
the cabin?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]