> Did JM suggest a length limit for a simple extension of the aft
> straight run?

Nope, he just said that the design would work better if it was longer.

Personally, I'd like to see it taller in the cabin, but to do that I
think you'd have to go wider. And then you have a completely different
boat.

-Mario

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "daschultz2000" <daschultz8275@...>
wrote:
>
> Mario,
>
> Did JM suggest a length limit for a simple extension of the aft
> straight run?
>
> Dorado is a handsome boat, and IMO Michalak's best power boat design.
>
> You have a bunch of good thoughts.  To get a bigger "Dorado Grande"I
> had thought to take Caprice plans, and make a power version with a
> simple straight run aft.  I was thinking I'd buy Dorado plans also for
> clues about how to build the power boat transom.
>
> Building a model would seem your next step.
>
>

Thanks for all the input, and a Happy New Year to everone.

…The pro is that it would keep the lee board submerged without the
need for a cleat. … This is a big pro if you're short tacking up a
narrow channel….

…. On my Philsboat I have 100 lbs of lead under the
seats and it is very stable… that's a good idea I'll add lead to
balance my batteries...

Just in for Jim's January essay.
"From what I have seen the amount of ballast needed might not be
much, maybe less that 50 pounds. Maybe less if the weight is mounted
on the tip of the leeboard."    Quote from JM

Michael

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Feller" <chrisbfeller@...>
wrote:
>
> The pro is that it would keep the lee board submerged without the
need
> for a cleat.  However cleating works well and is often not
necessary.
>  The board simply stays down due to friction.
>
> The con is that it adds weight and complexity to the lee board.  The
> added righting forces it adds are minimal and not worth the effort.
> Especially on that design where all you would have to do to add a
> great deal of stability is add a couple hundred of pounds of weight
> under the seats.  On my Philsboat I have 100 lbs of lead under the
> seats and it is very stable.  The Caroline would be even more stable
> and have greater righting force due to the higher sides.
>
> I would not bother adding the weight to the lee board.  The boat is
> very stable as designed.
>
> Chris Feller
>
> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "trailsnail2000" <mike1953@> wrote:
> >
> >     What are the pros and cons of adding lead to a leeboard (off
set
> > center board)? I'm building a Caroline. To my way of thinking
some
> > weight down low would be the most effective. I am concerned
though that
> > the weight would also add stresses to the leeboard and the
leeboard
> > guard. Have any of you done this?
> >
> > Michael
> >
>

Michael, sorry to have to disagree about Jim's comments re ballast on the
leeboard. If you read on a couple of lines he concludes "on second thought it
isn't such a good idea."

I'm building Frolic2, which has been known to capsize, and so the whole question
of ballast, slot tops, etc tends to fill my thoughts lately. Haven't reached the
point yet where I have to make any irreversible decisions. I'm still struggling
with the old 'to epoxy coat or not to epoxy coat' conundrum.

What came out of Jim's essay for me was his endorsement
  of a small amount of internal ballast and a narrower slot top, as well as a
plywood, rather than fabric, cover, which I had already decided upon.

Cheers

Deek

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "hung9122000" <hung9122000@...> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am Hung, a new member here. I am sorry for talking about this so
> fast, but, is there anyone that can give me some tips e.g. good
boating
> habits, special modifications, fishing techniques etc., for boating in
> the S. China Pearl River Delta region? And, do any of you have/know of
> boat designs that will work there? I am asking this because I am
really
> eager to get my boat right! Also, is there anyone interested in
> learning about boating, the boating industry and business
opportunities
> in the China region? If there is please reply me or e mail me or visit
> my Y! group, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/boatmanufacdesign/, and
> leave a message. I am the manager of an OEM boat making business in
> China. My Y! Group also has some useful boating resources such as
links
> to marine and weather departments, marina clubs, business resources
(in
> China & HK ), boating websites, good bookstores, etc, that you may
find
> interesting.
>
>
> Cheers
> Hung
>
Hung, are you interested in learning how to make/construct Brockway
skiffs?  We have plans for the 14' and 16' boats and other historical
information about Earle Brockway who used to build these boats on the
Connecticut River, in CT USA. Check out our website: www.soundschool.com
<http://www.soundschool.com>  and select Publications then Manuals.
Browse our list and towards the bottom of it, you will find Brockway
Skiff directions/corrections, etc.

If you prefer, I can mail you a copy of our Brockway material and we do
ask that you send us a donation for postage.  Thank you for your
interest.  Please contact me via information on the web page:
http://www.soundschool.com/directory.html
<http://www.soundschool.com/directory.html>

Thank you.

Susan Weber, Adult Education and Outreach Programs

Phone: 203-946-6875

Email: susan.weber@...
<mailto:susan.weber@...>

Mail: 17 Sea Street, New Haven, CT 06519



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Being new to building boats I have never attempted to fiberglass a
boat. Inorder show off the wood, do you use the fiber glass cloth
covered by resin and then a clear jel coat?

Almost but not quite.  You would use fiberglass cloth usually 6 oz
then epoxy saturate and fill the weave.  The last step would be to
sand and varnish the epoxy coating.  Be careful not to sand through to
the cloth.  That would weaken the coating and make the weave of the
cloth show through.  I like the traditional marine varnishes because I
think they are easiest to use.  However you can also use an
inexpensive polyurethane varnish from the hardware store.

Chris Feller
--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "can14riv" <kirkerpoint@...> wrote:
>
>  Being new to building boats I have never attempted to fiberglass a
> boat. Inorder show off the wood, do you use the fiber glass cloth
> covered by resin and then a clear jel coat?
>

Hey everyone.. My name is Alan and live in west central Iowa.  Joined
the site a couple weeks ago. Had planned writing earlier, but with the
holidays, time got away from me. Ordered and recieved the plans for the
harmonica, and am now in the process of figuring the costs of building
it. Have had some time to go over back messages and found a lot of
helpful info. There are some back messages(2004) about trailers for
harmonica being avalible at Harbor Freight and Northern Tool, but the
links are dead. I have looked but don't know if the one discussed is
offered yet.  Any help on picking one, or clues where to buy one, would
be much appreciated.

In her Duckworks article

<http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/outings/t2/index.htm>

Caroline Gould reports that "the Caroline design does NOT like to
point into the wind under any circumstances.  The boat aggressively
swings from side to side while at anchor. It is caused by wind pushing
at a superstructure unbalanced by a deep keel or similar understructure."

I'm wondering if other Micjalak birdwatcher sailors have experienced
the same issues while manuevering or while at anchor.  And, has anyone
tried adding a small mizzen to a Philsboat, Scram Pram, IMB, or
Jewelbox Jr.?  I'm thinking it might not be worth rigging for day
sailing, but could be a real asset for cruising.

-- Grant

Hello Alan.  Welcome to the group!

I bought a harbor freight 4X8 (1000lbs capacity) trailer kit with the
intention to use it for my Philsboat.  Ultimately I found a trailer on
Craigslist that was cheaper and better suited for the task.  The HF
trailers are very cheap and lightweight.  You'll probably need to add
or extend it to be suitable for boats.   They also have a "boat
trailer" but it's twice the pcrice.

You may want to checkout craigslist before you go through the trouble.
  Good luck with whatever you decide to do.


Chris Curtis



--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Henriksen" <iowaboy546@...> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone.. My name is Alan and live in west central Iowa.  Joined
> the site a couple weeks ago. Had planned writing earlier, but with the
> holidays, time got away from me. Ordered and recieved the plans for the
> harmonica, and am now in the process of figuring the costs of building
> it. Have had some time to go over back messages and found a lot of
> helpful info. There are some back messages(2004) about trailers for
> harmonica being avalible at Harbor Freight and Northern Tool, but the
> links are dead. I have looked but don't know if the one discussed is
> offered yet.  Any help on picking one, or clues where to buy one, would
> be much appreciated.
>

Michael Rose wrote
>>>sorry to have to disagree about Jim's comments re ballast on the
leeboard. If you read on a couple of lines he concludes "on second
thought it isn't such a good idea.<<<  …The problem Jim refers to is
when the boat rights without crew and the sheet is cleated, I do have
a responsibility to stay in the boat ,and sail properly. Then how did
I lay the boat on it's ear? (VBG)

>>> Haven't reached the point yet where I have to make any
irreversible decisions. I'm still struggling with the old 'to epoxy
coat or not to epoxy coat' conundrum<<<   Me too, it's my first boat,
and I agonize over each detail, and of cousre over fixing my mistakes…

   I agree with your assay of JM's essay, however I'm going to try a
small amount of weight (~#15 or the amount of just touching the
leeboard while one is in the water) at the foot of the leeboard. If
it's a flop, I'll go on from there. If the weather clears tonight I
hope to 3D Caroline Saturday, to see how fair the panels lay. If it's
good then I hope to have her in the water in the Spring.)

Michael Shrum


Michael
--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Michael Rose <deekinthailand@...>
wrote:
>
> Michael, sorry to have to disagree about Jim's comments re ballast
on the leeboard. If you read on a couple of lines he concludes "on
second thought it isn't such a good idea."
>
> I'm building Frolic2, which has been known to capsize, and so the
whole question of ballast, slot tops, etc tends to fill my thoughts
lately. Haven't reached the point yet where I have to make any
irreversible decisions. I'm still struggling with the old 'to epoxy
coat or not to epoxy coat' conundrum.
>
> What came out of Jim's essay for me was his endorsement
>  of a small amount of internal ballast and a narrower slot top, as
well as a plywood, rather than fabric, cover, which I had already
decided upon.
>
> Cheers
>
> Deek
>

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "boathead5" <boathead5@...> wrote:
>
> In her Duckworks article
> I have a modified Philsboat and there is no problem while sailing
but it is NOT happy at anchor. I have tried leeboard up, leeboard
down, rudder up, rudder down, nothing seems to help. Usually I anchor
close to shore with the anchor holding the bow out from shore and
another line running into shore to a tree or whatever. I'm waiting to
hear what Caroline says about her mizzen at anchor.
Mike
> <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/outings/t2/index.htm>
>
> Caroline Gould reports that "the Caroline design does NOT like to
> point into the wind under any circumstances.  The boat aggressively
> swings from side to side while at anchor. It is caused by wind
pushing
> at a superstructure unbalanced by a deep keel or similar
understructure."
>
> I'm wondering if other Micjalak birdwatcher sailors have experienced
> the same issues while manuevering or while at anchor.  And, has
anyone
> tried adding a small mizzen to a Philsboat, Scram Pram, IMB, or
> Jewelbox Jr.?  I'm thinking it might not be worth rigging for day
> sailing, but could be a real asset for cruising.
>
> -- Grant
>

Hi Grant,

Yep, I have exactly those problems on my Philsboat too.  I am
currently experimenting with different anchoring techniques and rig
techniques to sort it out. Here's what I've found out so far.

1.  Make sure the rig you're building has plenty of sheet available to
weather cock freely behind the mast when raising sail. My previous
junk rig had too much sail before the mast and so the boat started
sailing as soon as you began to raise it. I used to lash the tiller
straight ahead, but now leave the helm to do what it wants with my new
rig. The boat doesn't point into the wind, but lies about 70 degrees off.

2.  Anchoring off the stern is the way to go, I think, because with
the tiller on these boats being under the deck through a hole in the
transom, there's no risk of being pooped. I use a bridle attached to
two cleats on either side of the transom. The stern anchor resides
next to the mast with the chain wrapped several times around the mast
to protect against movement in a capsize. I throw out the bow anchor
first and then set up the stern anchor, fully raise the lee board, but
leave the rudder down lashed straight ahead.  Now I retrieve the bow
anchor and let the boat drift downwind onto the stern anchor. I've
only done this exercise once in 15 knot conditions, then sat down and
had a long lunch. The boat still moved from side to side slightly (I
was able to make a cup of tea on the cabin sole without spilling it),
but nothing like the charging about on the bow anchor which was
beginning to give me motion sickness. A couple of waves banged against
the transom and maybe in more vigorous conditions they might splash
over the deck into the cabin.

3.  I don't want the hassle of a mizzen mast on my Philsboat. The
stern deck is already VERY busy with it's offset rudder and motor
well. After the mizzen and boomkin were added, I would then have to
rebuild my rig with a smaller sail area set further forward on the
mast as my current rig's clew extends behind the transom. Instead I
have made a small jib which I intend to trial as a riding sail. The
idea is that once the stern anchor has been set, I raise the jib.
With the jib in place, I should be able to move about on the boat in
the bow area and it won't mind.  The jib is also supposed to be used
as a storm jib, should I ever be caught out in really bad conditions.

As I've said, I've only just started exploring this area.  I'm going
out with a friend tommorrow and plan to test out 1, 2 and 3 on
Lyttelton Harbour. I'll report back then.

Cheers,

Rob.

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "boathead5" <boathead5@...> wrote:
>
> In her Duckworks article
>
> <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/outings/t2/index.htm>
>
> Caroline Gould reports that "the Caroline design does NOT like to
> point into the wind under any circumstances.  The boat aggressively
> swings from side to side while at anchor. It is caused by wind pushing
> at a superstructure unbalanced by a deep keel or similar
understructure."
>
> I'm wondering if other Micjalak birdwatcher sailors have experienced
> the same issues while manuevering or while at anchor.  And, has anyone
> tried adding a small mizzen to a Philsboat, Scram Pram, IMB, or
> Jewelbox Jr.?  I'm thinking it might not be worth rigging for day
> sailing, but could be a real asset for cruising.
>
> -- Grant
>

For those who are already planning their summer boating fun, the Lake
Pepin Messabout will be June 5-9 in Lake City, MN.  Full details are
on the event website at http://lakepepinmessabout.com .

Bill

After righting, I think the extra water in the Jinni cockpit is
simply due to it being bigger than the AF3 cockpit. Apart from that,
what I got on re-reading Jim's 2-part capsize essays again was the
striking performance difference between the AF3 and
its "parent"/predecessor the Jinni, and I assume this difference will
hold for other similar partially decked and open boats.

The AF3 is about 170% the weight of the Jinni. Bouyant force equals
weight (displacement, but here weight will do), righting moment also
partly depends on weight.

Jinni is of six 1/4" ply sheets. AF3 is of six of those, plus another
two 1/2" sheets which I believe are mostly the bottom and leeboard
placing a lot of the extra weight where it is most effective in
countering capsize as well as in righting after capsize. I assume the
high cuddy side decks (and some flare) on the AF3 mean that after
capsizing it would come to rest at a lesser heel angle than Jinni,
which would help when righting.

So, there's significantly more bouyant force, righting moment, weight-
down-low. And  there's the freeboard/decking/(flare), for more
bouyancy up high. I guess this explains why AF3 seemed harder to tip
over and for a bigger angle before capsizing, and then seemed much
easier to right. I guess another layer of 3/8" ply on the bottom of
AF3 would add near a 100lbs and should boost things along further.
What of a thicker bottom on the open boat?

Cheers
Graeme

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Michael Rose <deekinthailand@...>
wrote:
> [snip]... What came out of Jim's essay for me was his endorsement
> of small amount of internal ballast and a narrower slot top, as
> well as a plywood, rather than fabric, cover, which I had already
> decided upon.
> Cheers
> Deek

I had a similar issue when cruising my MacGregor 26X in the keys - the
bow danced all over the place.  I tried all combinations of
centerboard up/down, rudders up/down, bridle - I finally slept well
when using a 25 pound CQR with 20 feet of chain on the end of the rode
- it didn't stop the dancing, but the boat never drug so I didn't care.

Experiment with dropping a second anchor off the bow, but straight
down.  A retired navy friend suggested doing that - I didn't test it
personally.  The first anchor does the holding, and the second anchor
adds enough drag to the bow that the stern swings downwind first - or
so goes the theory, and this one is the cheapest to try.

If you can add a mizzen, it is a great thing to have - with the
leeboards down, the mizzen sheeted in, and the rudder over to one
side, the boat parks well even w/o and anchor.  At night at anchor,
the boat doesn't dance at all.  Note that if the mizzen is far enough
back, it doesn't have to be very big.

Hope that helps.

Mike
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/





On Jan 2, 2009, at 4:52 PM, boathead5 wrote:

> In her Duckworks article
>
> <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/outings/t2/index.htm>
>
> Caroline Gould reports that "the Caroline design does NOT like to
> point into the wind under any circumstances. The boat aggressively
> swings from side to side while at anchor. It is caused by wind pushing
> at a superstructure unbalanced by a deep keel or similar
> understructure."
>
> I'm wondering if other Micjalak birdwatcher sailors have experienced
> the same issues while manuevering or while at anchor. And, has anyone
> tried adding a small mizzen to a Philsboat, Scram Pram, IMB, or
> Jewelbox Jr.? I'm thinking it might not be worth rigging for day
> sailing, but could be a real asset for cruising.
>
> -- Grant
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have used something similar, to damp sailing around at anchor and
improve holding. Basically I used my second anchor, shackled to my
anchor rode with a second line to haul it up and let it out, but I
have often thought that one of those WallMart rubberized mushroom
anchors would be really good or maybe a 20-lb. free weight that has
been gathering dust in someone's garage.

Once you are anchored normally, you get an oversized shackle, put it
around your anchor line (polished stainless steel is best with rope)
and then you shackle the second anchor or a heavy weight to the rode
and tie a line to the shackle. Then you let out enough line to keep
the weight on the bottom (1/1 scope) anyplace you are likely to swing.

The extra weight improves the holding of the anchor and damps swinging
quite a bit, depending on how heavy it is.

Here is one link:

http://books.google.fr/books?id=lJs3zmHQrgAC&pg=PA92&lpg=PA92&dq=anchor+chum+ang\
el+sentinel&source=bl&ots=OuRFayuVCZ&sig=__VZ3na5IZPyhtHax-2QXNJZjxk&hl=fr&sa=X&\
oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPA93,M1

which if it works, is from a book called "Lessons from My Good Old
Boat" which actually looks like a pretty good read itself.

or you can just google "anchor chum angel sentinel kellet"

Cheers, Brian


--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Mike Stockstill <mkstocks@...> wrote:
>
> I had a similar issue when cruising my MacGregor 26X in the keys - the
> bow danced all over the place.  I tried all combinations of
> centerboard up/down, rudders up/down, bridle - I finally slept well
> when using a 25 pound CQR with 20 feet of chain on the end of the rode
> - it didn't stop the dancing, but the boat never drug so I didn't care.
>
> Experiment with dropping a second anchor off the bow, but straight
> down.  A retired navy friend suggested doing that - I didn't test it
> personally.  The first anchor does the holding, and the second anchor
> adds enough drag to the bow that the stern swings downwind first - or
> so goes the theory, and this one is the cheapest to try.
>
> If you can add a mizzen, it is a great thing to have - with the
> leeboards down, the mizzen sheeted in, and the rudder over to one
> side, the boat parks well even w/o and anchor.  At night at anchor,
> the boat doesn't dance at all.  Note that if the mizzen is far enough
> back, it doesn't have to be very big.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Mike
> http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2009, at 4:52 PM, boathead5 wrote:
>
> > In her Duckworks article
> >
> > <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/outings/t2/index.htm>
> >
> > Caroline Gould reports that "the Caroline design does NOT like to
> > point into the wind under any circumstances. The boat aggressively
> > swings from side to side while at anchor. It is caused by wind pushing
> > at a superstructure unbalanced by a deep keel or similar
> > understructure."
> >
> > I'm wondering if other Micjalak birdwatcher sailors have experienced
> > the same issues while manuevering or while at anchor. And, has anyone
> > tried adding a small mizzen to a Philsboat, Scram Pram, IMB, or
> > Jewelbox Jr.? I'm thinking it might not be worth rigging for day
> > sailing, but could be a real asset for cruising.
> >
> > -- Grant
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

After sailing two summers with AF3 I decided to built something bigger.
For obvious reasons I decided to build Viola 26. (I like the hidden
beauty of the simple lines of AF3)
Now, is there any Violas sailing? Or any pictures of Viola? Or am I the
first one needing to do all mistakes by my self?

Markku

hey Chris..thanks for the welcome and the info.  Did think the
trailers looked a little flimsy, but since Harmonica only weighs 400
pounds I didn't think it much concern. Have been checking want ads
for trailers, and there are a few places i can look now that the
holidays are over. Isn't a really big hurry since I can't start
building til spring(no heat in building area) Harder to find a flat
bottom trailer than a v-bottom here, so will take longer. Plus a lot
want to sell the boat with the trailer!LOL ..Alan







--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "joe_mapango" <ccurtis-keyword-
sailboat.a927b9@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Alan.  Welcome to the group!
>
> I bought a harbor freight 4X8 (1000lbs capacity) trailer kit with
the
> intention to use it for my Philsboat.  Ultimately I found a trailer
on
> Craigslist that was cheaper and better suited for the task.  The HF
> trailers are very cheap and lightweight.  You'll probably need to
add
> or extend it to be suitable for boats.   They also have a "boat
> trailer" but it's twice the pcrice.
>
> You may want to checkout craigslist before you go through the
trouble.
>  Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
>
>
> Chris Curtis
>
>
>
> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Henriksen" <iowaboy546@>
wrote:
> >
> > Hey everyone.. My name is Alan and live in west central Iowa.
Joined
> > the site a couple weeks ago. Had planned writing earlier, but
with the
> > holidays, time got away from me. Ordered and recieved the plans
for the
> > harmonica, and am now in the process of figuring the costs of
building
> > it. Have had some time to go over back messages and found a lot
of
> > helpful info. There are some back messages(2004) about trailers
for
> > harmonica being avalible at Harbor Freight and Northern Tool, but
the
> > links are dead. I have looked but don't know if the one discussed
is
> > offered yet.  Any help on picking one, or clues where to buy one,
would
> > be much appreciated.
> >
>

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Markku" <markku.valkama@...> wrote:
>
> After sailing two summers with AF3 I decided to built something
bigger.
> For obvious reasons I decided to build Viola 26. (I like the hidden
> beauty of the simple lines of AF3)
> Now, is there any Violas sailing? Or any pictures of Viola? Or am I
the
> first one needing to do all mistakes by my self?
>
> Markku


Hi Markku,

I don't believe either of the Viola's have been built yet. If you like
the AF3 , then either Viola should serve you well. However if you have
any intention in venturing into more open waters  and bigger waves you
might want to look at Caprice which can handle big stuff better without
pounding. Also less pounding when motoring into a head sea if you may be
doing some of that.

But you are correct, the AF/Viola class are very beautiful in their
simplicity of line.

Best regards and keep us posted as to what you decide.

Nels

Which gets to my point about starting with Caprice, which is 25'x6'.
  Or Cormorant, which is 32'x8', and probably to big a boat to trailer
regularly.  Then build with a straight run aft from the point where
the sailboat bottom starts to sweep upward.

Then there is Bolger's first Fast Motor Sailer which is a 26' Diablo
w' a cuddy.  IMO it would be a fun straight power boat, and is a
completed and built design.  There is a pic in "Boats with an Open
Mind", and here;

http://www.boatdesign.com/jumps/mckib/Page.html

She's called "ADA".  Note the later version with more cabin.

Perhaps the thing to do is commission the design desired from
Michalak.  I would not commission Bolger.

Don Schultz

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Mario Korf" <retrosub@...> wrote:
>
> Personally, I'd like to see it taller in the cabin, but to do that I
> think you'd have to go wider. And then you have a completely different
> boat.
>
> -Mario
>

I don't believe any Violas have been built.  I am envious I have the
Viola 22 plans and have often thought of building it.  However my
building space is my garage at 19 feet long.

Chris Feller
--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Markku" <markku.valkama@...> wrote:
>
> After sailing two summers with AF3 I decided to built something bigger.
> For obvious reasons I decided to build Viola 26. (I like the hidden
> beauty of the simple lines of AF3)
> Now, is there any Violas sailing? Or any pictures of Viola? Or am I the
> first one needing to do all mistakes by my self?
>
> Markku
>

This for me was a landmark day. The frames and sides are together,
and a boat is beginning to form. I have made a small change to Jim's
design by giving up some fore deck space and sloping the cabin front.
I've posted a couple of photos, in Michalak_Boats_Photos_Only_3 under
Nelumbo.

    A warning about Olympic Panel Crezon / Two Step MDO. My bilge panels
extended beyond the carport I'm using as a boat shed. The ends were not
well protected from the little bit of rain we've had in the North SF
Bay Area. The edges had not yet been sealed. There is some
delamination. I've filled the areas with Titebond III and clamped. This
does not however bode well for the longevity of the boat.

Michael Shrum

Go for it.  Keep a good photographic record.  It will help the rest of us.  I
plan on the Frolic 2, starting in June.  I promise to load you up with pics.  I
picked it because it has a V bottom, and my lake has chop like you wouldn't
believe.  Thought I needed something that would take that better.  Cheers.

To: Michalak@...: markku.valkama@...: Sat, 3 Jan
2009 19:53:02 +0000Subject: [Michalak] Viola 26 (22)



After sailing two summers with AF3 I decided to built something bigger.For
obvious reasons I decided to build Viola 26. (I like the hidden beauty of the
simple lines of AF3)Now, is there any Violas sailing? Or any pictures of Viola?
Or am I the first one needing to do all mistakes by my self?Markku






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello!
Does anyone have a total overview of the lumber needed for a Mayfly
14? I already have the plywood.

The book (Yes, I bought it - TWICE - darn airport people lost my first
one) says the dimensions, but a lot of places it only says "enough
3/4inch x 1,5inch", "some 2x4" etc. I'm just looking for an easy
shopping list if anyone has any experience to share. Thanks!

Sig
Bergen, Norway

PS: Will post my first pictures this weekend of the shop and the start
of the boat. And heck, I might even throw in one of all the snow
outside.

What a glorious day's sailing. The weather was superb with a 10 knot
NE breeze, the scenery fantastic and my Philsboat cruised along
merrily to weather at just over 3 knots (hull speed 5 knots). I have
posted a couple of videos on YouTube close hauled at 50 degrees.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWcdCNAb2Mc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2ngfG8Skvs

plus a couple of photos of the new rig I'm using in

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Michalak_Boats_Photos_Only_3/ under the
album Philsboat - The Lovely Duckling

Also got a chance to test out the various anchoring techniques I
mentioned below.  Here they are listed from worst to best:

1.  Bow anchor attached to top of stem with leeboard down (130 degree
yawing).
2.  Bow anchor attached to top of stem with leeboard up.
3.  Bow anchor attached to painter bolt near base of stem with
leeboard up.
4.  Stern anchor with leeboard up.
5.  Stern anchor with leeboard down.
6.  Stern anchor with leeboard down and jib used as a riding sail (20
degree yawing).

None of this is exactly scientific, but it confirms that without a
mizzen, stern anchoring with a small riding jib is far easier to cope
with.  My jib has belly, so with an flat cut jib I think you could
achieve less than 10 degrees yawing at anchor.  It would be interesting to
hear from others the kind of yawing they get with a mizzen.


Cheers,

Rob.


--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Kellock" <creditscorenz@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Grant,
>
> Yep, I have exactly those problems on my Philsboat too.  I am
> currently experimenting with different anchoring techniques and rig
> techniques to sort it out. Here's what I've found out so far.
>
> 1.  Make sure the rig you're building has plenty of sheet available to
> weather cock freely behind the mast when raising sail. My previous
> junk rig had too much sail before the mast and so the boat started
> sailing as soon as you began to raise it. I used to lash the tiller
> straight ahead, but now leave the helm to do what it wants with my new
> rig. The boat doesn't point into the wind, but lies about 70 degrees
off.
>
> 2.  Anchoring off the stern is the way to go, I think, because with
> the tiller on these boats being under the deck through a hole in the
> transom, there's no risk of being pooped. I use a bridle attached to
> two cleats on either side of the transom. The stern anchor resides
> next to the mast with the chain wrapped several times around the mast
> to protect against movement in a capsize. I throw out the bow anchor
> first and then set up the stern anchor, fully raise the lee board, but
> leave the rudder down lashed straight ahead.  Now I retrieve the bow
> anchor and let the boat drift downwind onto the stern anchor. I've
> only done this exercise once in 15 knot conditions, then sat down and
> had a long lunch. The boat still moved from side to side slightly (I
> was able to make a cup of tea on the cabin sole without spilling it),
> but nothing like the charging about on the bow anchor which was
> beginning to give me motion sickness. A couple of waves banged against
> the transom and maybe in more vigorous conditions they might splash
> over the deck into the cabin.
>
> 3.  I don't want the hassle of a mizzen mast on my Philsboat. The
> stern deck is already VERY busy with it's offset rudder and motor
> well. After the mizzen and boomkin were added, I would then have to
> rebuild my rig with a smaller sail area set further forward on the
> mast as my current rig's clew extends behind the transom. Instead I
> have made a small jib which I intend to trial as a riding sail. The
> idea is that once the stern anchor has been set, I raise the jib.
> With the jib in place, I should be able to move about on the boat in
> the bow area and it won't mind.  The jib is also supposed to be used
> as a storm jib, should I ever be caught out in really bad conditions.
>
> As I've said, I've only just started exploring this area.  I'm going
> out with a friend tommorrow and plan to test out 1, 2 and 3 on
> Lyttelton Harbour. I'll report back then.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rob.
>
> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "boathead5" <boathead5@> wrote:
> >
> > In her Duckworks article
> >
> > <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/outings/t2/index.htm>
> >
> > Caroline Gould reports that "the Caroline design does NOT like to
> > point into the wind under any circumstances.  The boat aggressively
> > swings from side to side while at anchor. It is caused by wind pushing
> > at a superstructure unbalanced by a deep keel or similar
> understructure."
> >
> > I'm wondering if other Micjalak birdwatcher sailors have experienced
> > the same issues while manuevering or while at anchor.  And, has anyone
> > tried adding a small mizzen to a Philsboat, Scram Pram, IMB, or
> > Jewelbox Jr.?  I'm thinking it might not be worth rigging for day
> > sailing, but could be a real asset for cruising.
> >
> > -- Grant
> >
>

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "svagene" <svagene@...> wrote:
>
> Hello!
> Does anyone have a total overview of the lumber needed for a Mayfly
> 14? I already have the plywood.
>
> The book (Yes, I bought it - TWICE - darn airport people lost my first
> one) says the dimensions, but a lot of places it only says "enough
> 3/4inch x 1,5inch", "some 2x4" etc. I'm just looking for an easy
> shopping list if anyone has any experience to share. Thanks!
>
> Sig
> Bergen, Norway
>
> PS: Will post my first pictures this weekend of the shop and the start
> of the boat. And heck, I might even throw in one of all the snow
> outside.
>

Sorry I can't help you very much but looking in the book sheet #2  has
the plywood cutting pattern that shows 5 sheets of 1/4" plywood, and the
photo on the front cover shows 6 - 14 ft. sticks and some 1X4 inch
framing lumber. But I think that is for the basic rowing version.

For the sailing version you need a sheet of 1/2" plywood for the rudder
and leeboard and guard etc. and probably 3 times the amount of lumber
shown in the cover photo for mast and yards. tiller etc.

And remember the chines and wales are beveled so you have start off with
wider sticks than the final measurements state. Same with the transom
framing.

May I ask what kind of plywood you are using? I have had an enquiry from
a person  in Norway who was wondering about one called " Kryssfinèr
Lauan-Meranti plater" Have you heard of it?

Nels



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jim is pretty good about giving you the plywood requirements on his
plans but does not include a lumber list.  You can calculate it pretty
easily by adding up the length and dimensions from the plans.  Don't
forget to account for waste from saw cuts and lengths that don't
divide equally.

I usually just get more than enough and have some left over for the
next boat.  I have found I build a boat every 1-2 years so extra wood
is never a problem for me.

Chris Feller

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "svagene" <svagene@...> wrote:
>
> Hello!
> Does anyone have a total overview of the lumber needed for a Mayfly
> 14? I already have the plywood.
>
> The book (Yes, I bought it - TWICE - darn airport people lost my first
> one) says the dimensions, but a lot of places it only says "enough
> 3/4inch x 1,5inch", "some 2x4" etc. I'm just looking for an easy
> shopping list if anyone has any experience to share. Thanks!
>
> Sig
> Bergen, Norway
>
> PS: Will post my first pictures this weekend of the shop and the start
> of the boat. And heck, I might even throw in one of all the snow
> outside.
>

One cheap idea is to set a good size flag on a jackstaff on the
transom. It's proper to fly a national ensign from the transom while at
anchor or under power anyway.  If the flag is large enough, it should
produce some weathercock effect.  Of course, in much breeze, you'll
have to listen to the flag flapping, but with a light nylon fabric this
might not be too objectionable.  Obviously, lowering the mast will
help, if that's practical in the design you're using.

Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm

Get a big flag, sew some tape into the edges and I bet one would set
well enough as a square, loose-footed sprit sail with a mast and a
boomkin in back. Or maybe even a main sail...

Cheers, Brian


--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
>
> One cheap idea is to set a good size flag on a jackstaff on the
> transom. It's proper to fly a national ensign from the transom while at
> anchor or under power anyway.  If the flag is large enough, it should
> produce some weathercock effect.  Of course, in much breeze, you'll
> have to listen to the flag flapping, but with a light nylon fabric this
> might not be too objectionable.  Obviously, lowering the mast will
> help, if that's practical in the design you're using.
>
> Jon Kolb
> www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>

--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
>
> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "svagene" <svagene@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello!
> > Does anyone have a total overview of the lumber needed for a
Mayfly
> > 14? I already have the plywood.
> >
> > The book (Yes, I bought it - TWICE - darn airport people lost my
first
> > one) says the dimensions, but a lot of places it only
says "enough
> > 3/4inch x 1,5inch", "some 2x4" etc. I'm just looking for an easy
> > shopping list if anyone has any experience to share. Thanks!
> >
> > Sig
> > Bergen, Norway
> >
> > PS: Will post my first pictures this weekend of the shop and the
start
> > of the boat. And heck, I might even throw in one of all the snow
> > outside.
> >
>
> Sorry I can't help you very much but looking in the book sheet #2
has
> the plywood cutting pattern that shows 5 sheets of 1/4" plywood,
and the
> photo on the front cover shows 6 - 14 ft. sticks and some 1X4 inch
> framing lumber. But I think that is for the basic rowing version.
>
> For the sailing version you need a sheet of 1/2" plywood for the
rudder
> and leeboard and guard etc. and probably 3 times the amount of
lumber
> shown in the cover photo for mast and yards. tiller etc.
>
> And remember the chines and wales are beveled so you have start
off with
> wider sticks than the final measurements state. Same with the
transom
> framing.
>
> May I ask what kind of plywood you are using? I have had an
enquiry from
> a person  in Norway who was wondering about one called " Kryssfinèr
> Lauan-Meranti plater" Have you heard of it?
>
> Nels
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Nels,
"
The word "Kryssfinèr" is the Norwegian word for "plywood",
and "plater" is the word for "sheet". "Lauan-Meranti" is the name of
the wood it self, I believe this is a kind of lower-quality wood.
I've seen on some other forums that they recommend against using
Meranti (which is a sort of fast-growing pine), since it often
contains voids and air inside the sheets.

I use Marine quality Okoume plywood in what is known as a BS 1088-
standard.

As for plywood, I'm all set for my Mayfly, it's 3 sheets of 1/4" and
2 sheets of 1/2".

Have a nice day!

Sig