Hi all,
After some time I been passive about this group and just read the
messages, it's time to start writing.
So, my name is Boaz and I am from Dodin's Marbling - a family
one-stop-shop of handmade marbled paper and marbling supplies.
Our products available online, shipped worldwide, on 2 sites - eBay
<http://stores.ebay.com/Handmade-Marbled-Paper> and Etsy
<http://www.etsy.com/shop/HandMarbledPaper> .
I will be more than happy to answer any group related question.
Any feedback is also much appreciated.
Best,
Boaz.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello, I'm in Louisville, KY, (USA). I'm a mixed media art quilter and my
primary interest in marbling is to create fabric that will ultimately end up in
a quilt or as a whole cloth quilt.
I'll post some of my results...the good and not so good, as soon as I post this
message. Jo Fitsell has a video I downloaded from Interweave Press which has
been my primary guide followed by running to the library for a couple of books
on the topic.
I had a terrible time mixing paints that would float and have tried a gazillion
different types...finally the ones I just got from Pro-chemical and Dye have
yielded the best floating results but still weak on the intensity of colour I'm
trying to reach. I did figure out that it is best to start with fabric that
already has colour as opposed to white fabric.
Just wanted to introduce myself...
Karen Davis
Welcome Karen!
On Oct 13, 2012 4:14 PM, "Karen" <seamless_skin@...> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Hello, I'm in Louisville, KY, (USA). I'm a mixed media art quilter and my
> primary interest in marbling is to create fabric that will ultimately end
> up in a quilt or as a whole cloth quilt.
>
> I'll post some of my results...the good and not so good, as soon as I post
> this message. Jo Fitsell has a video I downloaded from Interweave Press
> which has been my primary guide followed by running to the library for a
> couple of books on the topic.
>
> I had a terrible time mixing paints that would float and have tried a
> gazillion different types...finally the ones I just got from Pro-chemical
> and Dye have yielded the best floating results but still weak on the
> intensity of colour I'm trying to reach. I did figure out that it is best
> to start with fabric that already has colour as opposed to white fabric.
>
> Just wanted to introduce myself...
>
> Karen Davis
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello Karen
The formula I use which works very well for me is Liquitex heavy body acrylic
with Golden medium about 60/40. I use the liquid medium and then add water to
make it the consistency of whole milk. Golden also makes a Fabric Medium which
I'm going to try very soon in hopes of making silk scarves more silky but the
basic one works well. I tried the Liquitex medium but that simply didn't work as
well and it's possible I simply did not find the right ratio. Also I know people
who use Photo Flo with great results but possibly someone else could speak to
that. BTW I just use tap water.
George
What is the use of a fine house if you haven't got a tolerable planet to put it
on. -Henry David Thoreau
yes, you are correct. The white of the fabric absorbs the color just like
the white of watercolor paper absorbs the color to make it paler. You can
also marble on patterned cloth for interesting effects.
I have had good luck with several brands of acrylics on cotton or silk
fabrics. Pro Chemical just re-did their whole line of paints and they are
supposed to be better now. Linda Moran does a lot of marbling on fabric.
http://www.marbledmusings.com/author/linda-moran/ she also does digital
marbling and some of them are shown on her masthead.
Lucille Scelfo is the one who introduced me to Pro Chem Paints - that's
what she uses.
http://www.silksbylucia.com/
They might answer some questions for you if you contact them directly
Sue
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Does anyone know of any translations of a work by a J. A. F. Schade, entitled
"Die Marmorir-Kunst oder Anweisung den Kamm und türkischen Marmor anzufertigen
für Buchbinder"
It was published in 1845, and there is a translation of the work by Mr. Wolfe .
(author of Marbled Paper: Its History, Techniques..) However, I am unable to
trace any copies of the translation, ( which Mr. Wolfe says he is in the process
of publishing in the aforementtioned book), anywhere online.
Can anyone here provide me with more information about this book, or it's
translations?
Reagrds:
Anthony
Hi everybody I am so excited to connect with the marbling community!
I am new at this and am having trouble with the size : when the fabric dries the
size leaves a crispy film that contracts the fabric and makes the paint crack.
The fabric's hand is also altered.
The paint is flowing nicely; I am using Golden paints with GAC.
Are there different qualities of methyl cellulose ? I have adjusteed the formula
a few times not sure what might be going wrong.
Thanks again for sharing your insights to help me solve this problem.
Andree
Thanks George ... you use it on fabric right?
I have a little carrageenan and will give it a try.
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, George Reynolds <georger1998@...> wrote:
>
> I started out marbling with methyl cellulose and switched to carrageenan for
exactly the reason you are describing. I never looked back.
> George
>
it sounds l like you are not rinsing it out. I have two buckets beside my
tank and rinse the scarves with a swishing motion like a washing machine in
first one bucket, then the other to get the excess size and paint out, then
hang them to dry on a rack that I made or you can use an old fashioned
diaper drying rack or something. Then I wash them in the washer in a
short, gentle cycle with a small amount of unscented fabric rinse, then dry
them in the dryer with towels to heat set them, then iron them with a small
amount of spray on size to restore the "new" feeling. The always feel soft
this way.
the towels help to keep them from tangling.
Sue
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Sue,
I want to send you a quick note to tell you that I've been using the Methyl Cel
from Talas and have found it to work better than the other kind (that requires
vinegar & ammonia). It has a much better staying power. I was disappointed at
first because of the prep and the unknown but I'm still using the same batch!
Weeks later. Almost everyday. That fellow who commented on the Talas brand is
dead wrong, he says that he used it and it was highly inferior, even more
inferior than the alternate mc but I beg to differ. I'm not a traditional
marbler but using the medium more like suminagashi so perhaps I can only speak
from this but the stuff works very well. I did add vinegar and ammonia in my
batch. I believe that it did actually help the fibers expand more fully.
My two cents.
Best,
Kathryn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Sorry folks, this was a private message not meant for the group.
K
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, kathryn fanelli <kathrynfanelli@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Sue,
>
> I want to send you a quick note to tell you that I've been using the Methyl
Cel from Talas and have found it to work better than the other kind (that
requires vinegar & ammonia). It has a much better staying power. I was
disappointed at first because of the prep and the unknown but I'm still using
the same batch! Weeks later. Almost everyday. That fellow who commented on the
Talas brand is dead wrong, he says that he used it and it was highly inferior,
even more inferior than the alternate mc but I beg to differ. I'm not a
traditional marbler but using the medium more like suminagashi so perhaps I can
only speak from this but the stuff works very well. I did add vinegar and
ammonia in my batch. I believe that it did actually help the fibers expand more
fully.
>
> My two cents.
>
> Best,
>
> Kathryn
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Sorry folks, this was a private message not meant for the group.
K
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, kathryn fanelli <kathrynfanelli@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Sue,
>
> I want to send you a quick note to tell you that I've been using the Methyl
Cel from Talas and have found it to work better than the other kind (that
requires vinegar & ammonia). It has a much better staying power. I was
disappointed at first because of the prep and the unknown but I'm still using
the same batch! Weeks later. Almost everyday. That fellow who commented on the
Talas brand is dead wrong, he says that he used it and it was highly inferior,
even more inferior than the alternate mc but I beg to differ. I'm not a
traditional marbler but using the medium more like suminagashi so perhaps I can
only speak from this but the stuff works very well. I did add vinegar and
ammonia in my batch. I believe that it did actually help the fibers expand more
fully.
>
> My two cents.
>
> Best,
>
> Kathryn
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Hi Sue,
So sorry I posted your message to the group, I hope it doesn't stir up anything
or ruffle feathers.
I cannot find a way to delete it. So sorry.
kathryn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi - I just spent the morning marbling paper with children - a great experiment
with many beautiful results.
We used a size made with carrageenan, and suminagashi paints that came in a kit.
A couple of the colors sank, a couple spread too much...I know there are ways of
dealing with those but I don't know much about them - and didn't have any
dispersant or whatever the stuff is that you add to make the color spread more
slowly. Oddly, the black ink did something really strange - it was the only
color that didn't stick to the paper - instead it would just run off with the
excess size, making a mess.
My main question is about rinsing the size - I tried using a tray and just
swishing the paper back and forth in it, but the size wasn't rinsing off.
Putting it under a gentle stream of water in the sink was disastrous - which I
knew would happen. Now I'm just letting everything dry on screens with the size
still on it. Should I rinse after the paper dries, or not at all? Is there a
better way I haven't found?
The other question - we were using strips of news paper to clean the size, with
mixed results. There was almost always a residue of paint that just would not
come off. And now that we're done, there is quite a bit in the pans that I
don't know what to do about - will it sink and separate if I just leave it? I
tried using extra papers just to absorb it all but it didn't really work. All
the ink that sank is still there, too, and I'd like to reuse the size but in the
meantime I thought I'd pour it out of the pans into gallon containers - but I'd
prefer to only keep the clean stuff and not the old inks. Any tips and hints
are greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
-Amanda
Hi, Amanda,
Welcome to the wonderful and frustrating world of marbling! The suminagashi
inks, from my experience work much better on plain water, not the carageenan.I
sometimes put a small bit of methylcellulose in the water with the inks. They
might sink if you don't work fast enough, but then it is a simple matter to dump
out the water in the tray and start fresh. I think that might have been the
issue with the black as well.
Diane Maurer is very accomplished with the sumi inks (and sells them as well)
and has told me that she does not alum her silk scarves when doing suminagashi -
I don't know if she pretreats her papers, but I alum both papers and scarves
when using the inks. That also may have been the issue with the black rinsing
down the drain - no alum, although I believe that the kit instructions do not
include that information either.
As for saving the size, if you allow the inks to settle, then use a turkey
baster to "suck from the top" you might be able to salvage some of the clearer
size. In any event the size should still work for floating marbling paints, and
not the inks. If it is really gunky, it will be hard to see what pattern you
are laying down. In any event the life of the carageenan is relatively short;
it will soon start to smell fishy or moldy and get then thin and runny, probably
with the week.
I hope this is helpful!
Caryl Hancock, indianapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: xcskimom <xcskimom@...>
To: Marbling <Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2012 2:19 pm
Subject: [Marbling] New to marbling with a few questions
Hi - I just spent the morning marbling paper with children - a great experiment
with many beautiful results.
We used a size made with carrageenan, and suminagashi paints that came in a kit.
A couple of the colors sank, a couple spread too much...I know there are ways of
dealing with those but I don't know much about them - and didn't have any
dispersant or whatever the stuff is that you add to make the color spread more
slowly. Oddly, the black ink did something really strange - it was the only
color that didn't stick to the paper - instead it would just run off with the
excess size, making a mess.
My main question is about rinsing the size - I tried using a tray and just
swishing the paper back and forth in it, but the size wasn't rinsing off.
Putting it under a gentle stream of water in the sink was disastrous - which I
knew would happen. Now I'm just letting everything dry on screens with the size
still on it. Should I rinse after the paper dries, or not at all? Is there a
better way I haven't found?
The other question - we were using strips of news paper to clean the size, with
mixed results. There was almost always a residue of paint that just would not
come off. And now that we're done, there is quite a bit in the pans that I
don't know what to do about - will it sink and separate if I just leave it? I
tried using extra papers just to absorb it all but it didn't really work. All
the ink that sank is still there, too, and I'd like to reuse the size but in the
meantime I thought I'd pour it out of the pans into gallon containers - but I'd
prefer to only keep the clean stuff and not the old inks. Any tips and hints
are greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
-Amanda
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thank you for all the helpful information, Caryl! I am really amazed that plain
water could work - I'll give that a try. I'm also going to try with some of our
acrylic paint, watered down. Of course, just how much water to use will be an
interesting experiment. All part of the learning process, I suppose.
The size is really quite murky at this point - but we did a lot of marbling
today. Maybe it's just beyond help. I think working with a white tray would
help a lot - I used a foil "pasta" pan and a regular metal baking pan, and you
could barely see after a while. But for the kids, that was part of the fun. I
myself would like to be able to see the design as I work!
Our library has no books on marbling techniques, which is unfortunate as I have
been searching for instructions to make the various designs - such as the
nonpareil and peacock ones. An internet search hasn't turned up much, which is
rather surprising. I have found a million sites with beautiful samples,
however! If there are any good pages, feel free to let me know!
Thanks again!
Amanda
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, carylhanc@... wrote:
>
> Hi, Amanda,
>
>
> Welcome to the wonderful and frustrating world of marbling! The suminagashi
inks, from my experience work much better on plain water, not the carageenan.I
sometimes put a small bit of methylcellulose in the water with the inks. They
might sink if you don't work fast enough, but then it is a simple matter to dump
out the water in the tray and start fresh. I think that might have been the
issue with the black as well.
>
>
> Diane Maurer is very accomplished with the sumi inks (and sells them as well)
and has told me that she does not alum her silk scarves when doing suminagashi -
I don't know if she pretreats her papers, but I alum both papers and scarves
when using the inks. That also may have been the issue with the black rinsing
down the drain - no alum, although I believe that the kit instructions do not
include that information either.
>
>
> As for saving the size, if you allow the inks to settle, then use a turkey
baster to "suck from the top" you might be able to salvage some of the clearer
size. In any event the size should still work for floating marbling paints, and
not the inks. If it is really gunky, it will be hard to see what pattern you
are laying down. In any event the life of the carageenan is relatively short;
it will soon start to smell fishy or moldy and get then thin and runny, probably
with the week.
>
>
> I hope this is helpful!
>
>
> Caryl Hancock, indianapolis
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: xcskimom <xcskimom@...>
> To: Marbling <Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2012 2:19 pm
> Subject: [Marbling] New to marbling with a few questions
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi - I just spent the morning marbling paper with children - a great
experiment with many beautiful results.
>
> We used a size made with carrageenan, and suminagashi paints that came in a
kit. A couple of the colors sank, a couple spread too much...I know there are
ways of dealing with those but I don't know much about them - and didn't have
any dispersant or whatever the stuff is that you add to make the color spread
more slowly. Oddly, the black ink did something really strange - it was the
only color that didn't stick to the paper - instead it would just run off with
the excess size, making a mess.
>
> My main question is about rinsing the size - I tried using a tray and just
swishing the paper back and forth in it, but the size wasn't rinsing off.
Putting it under a gentle stream of water in the sink was disastrous - which I
knew would happen. Now I'm just letting everything dry on screens with the size
still on it. Should I rinse after the paper dries, or not at all? Is there a
better way I haven't found?
>
> The other question - we were using strips of news paper to clean the size,
with mixed results. There was almost always a residue of paint that just would
not come off. And now that we're done, there is quite a bit in the pans that I
don't know what to do about - will it sink and separate if I just leave it? I
tried using extra papers just to absorb it all but it didn't really work. All
the ink that sank is still there, too, and I'd like to reuse the size but in the
meantime I thought I'd pour it out of the pans into gallon containers - but I'd
prefer to only keep the clean stuff and not the old inks. Any tips and hints
are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
> -Amanda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
If you are doing suminagashi then plain water is the way to go although you
might try an experiment with distilled water and see if make a difference. I
think the different results people report may have to do with how hard or soft
the water is but I don't have any data to back this up.
As for acrylics you will need a size and and something to help the paint float
although not necessarily for every color. There are many options here but the
ones I have tried that work for me are
- Photoflo available from the web like Amazon or photo/darkroom supply stores.
- Fabric Medium from Golden which I really like and is best for scarves.
- Gel Medium also from Golden.
In every case you need to mix any of these with water and mix until the
consistency is like whole milk or even lighter. I find that letting the mixture
sit for a day really helps to let all the air bibles dissipate. This makes for
much better spreading.
The most time consuming one is Photoflo to figure out since every color seems to
require a different amount. I mix all the colors with water and let them sit for
a day and then slowly add drops to each color and try it on the size until it
behaves like I want. Note also even if a color does not sink by itself it may
behave very differently when dropped on another color with more or less
Photoflo. Yes it's a bit like juggling 10 balls at a time. Well ok it's not that
hard but it does take time.
The Mediums are much more consistent - I use 60 acrylic to 40 medium plus water
until the consistency is what you want. Add a little water until it flows the
way you want. The use of medium will affect the feel of fabric when you are done
and does require thorough rinsing.
Finally Galen Berry sells good supplies and in particular trays that provide an
easy way to use a rinsing board. See his web site: www.marbleart.us
George
I tried some tattoo inks mixed with acrylic paint and the colors were very
strong.
I wonder if there is some problem for the paper used in the restoration this
mix.
Thank you
Thanks Sue,
I have added 2 rinse tubs to my process and it does help indeed... I was afraid
to stir things up until the color had been fixed now I now I can be a llittle
more vigorous about this part. Also trying a different brand of MC.
Thanks forr sharing!
Happy marbling,
Andree
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, Sue Cole <akartisan@...> wrote:
>
> it sounds l like you are not rinsing it out. I have two buckets beside my
> tank and rinse the scarves with a swishing motion like a washing machine in
> first one bucket, then the other to get the excess size and paint out, then
> hang them to dry on a rack that I made or you can use an old fashioned
> diaper drying rack or something. Then I wash them in the washer in a
> short, gentle cycle with a small amount of unscented fabric rinse, then dry
> them in the dryer with towels to heat set them, then iron them with a small
> amount of spray on size to restore the "new" feeling. The always feel soft
> this way.
>
> the towels help to keep them from tangling.
>
> Sue
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I wrote to him about the rinsing type of tray and this was his reply:
"Hello, but no, that has certainly never been true, I don't make any trays
at all of any kind. But thanks for asking!
Galen at MarbleArt.us <http://marbleart.us/>"
Sue
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I tried the suminigashi with plain water and I really didn't like the results -
too light! The colors were far more vibrant (those that worked) on the size.
Weird.
We're having a lot of fun experimenting. I have decided that rinsing paper is
basically a terrible idea, and I've just stood there and let as much as I could
run off the paper and then just let it dry. No adverse effects. However, I can
see this would not be a great strategy on fabric.
Thanks for the tips! I will pick up some photo-flo one of these days.
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, George Reynolds <georger1998@...> wrote:
>
> If you are doing suminagashi then plain water is the way to go although you
might try an experiment with distilled water and see if make a difference. I
think the different results people report may have to do with how hard or soft
the water is but I don't have any data to back this up.
>
> As for acrylics you will need a size and and something to help the paint float
although not necessarily for every color. There are many options here but the
ones I have tried that work for me are
> - Photoflo available from the web like Amazon or photo/darkroom supply stores.
> - Fabric Medium from Golden which I really like and is best for scarves.
> - Gel Medium also from Golden.
>
> In every case you need to mix any of these with water and mix until the
consistency is like whole milk or even lighter. I find that letting the mixture
sit for a day really helps to let all the air bibles dissipate. This makes for
much better spreading.
>
> The most time consuming one is Photoflo to figure out since every color seems
to require a different amount. I mix all the colors with water and let them sit
for a day and then slowly add drops to each color and try it on the size until
it behaves like I want. Note also even if a color does not sink by itself it may
behave very differently when dropped on another color with more or less
Photoflo. Yes it's a bit like juggling 10 balls at a time. Well ok it's not that
hard but it does take time.
>
> The Mediums are much more consistent - I use 60 acrylic to 40 medium plus
water until the consistency is what you want. Add a little water until it flows
the way you want. The use of medium will affect the feel of fabric when you are
done and does require thorough rinsing.
>
> Finally Galen Berry sells good supplies and in particular trays that provide
an easy way to use a rinsing board. See his web site: www.marbleart.us
>
> George
>
Regarding inks for Suminagashi (floating inks on water), I have the best, most
vivid results with those formulated for the process by a Japanese family -- the
Boku Undo inks that you can purchase online. Sumi ink gives a fantastic black
and black India ink works well. Other types of inks give a paler result, but
stick to those that are "waterproof" (with shellac in them.)
I also use acrylic inks and Golden liquid acrylics in the Suminagashi technique.
You can dilute them with water if needed, but I've found that acrylic medium (I
use Golden's GAC100) works as a better dispersant for them than photo-flo. Test
first since some colors are already active spreaders, and some, like white,
don't work at all.
In the past year, I've done five demos on Suminagashi, plus five workshops on
the process in the North Texas area. So I've built up lots of experience trying
different paints and papers. For a beginner, I recommend the extensive chapter
on Suminagashi in Diane Maurer's Ultimate Marbling Handbook.
Sharon
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "xcskimom" <xcskimom@...> wrote:
>
> I tried the suminigashi with plain water and I really didn't like the results
- too light! The colors were far more vibrant (those that worked) on the size.
Weird.
>
> We're having a lot of fun experimenting. I have decided that rinsing paper is
basically a terrible idea, and I've just stood there and let as much as I could
run off the paper and then just let it dry. No adverse effects. However, I can
see this would not be a great strategy on fabric.
>
> Thanks for the tips! I will pick up some photo-flo one of these days.
>
> --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, George Reynolds <georger1998@> wrote:
> >
> > If you are doing suminagashi then plain water is the way to go although you
might try an experiment with distilled water and see if make a difference. I
think the different results people report may have to do with how hard or soft
the water is but I don't have any data to back this up.
> >
> > As for acrylics you will need a size and and something to help the paint
float although not necessarily for every color. There are many options here but
the ones I have tried that work for me are
> > - Photoflo available from the web like Amazon or photo/darkroom supply
stores.
> > - Fabric Medium from Golden which I really like and is best for scarves.
> > - Gel Medium also from Golden.
> >
> > In every case you need to mix any of these with water and mix until the
consistency is like whole milk or even lighter. I find that letting the mixture
sit for a day really helps to let all the air bibles dissipate. This makes for
much better spreading.
> >
> > The most time consuming one is Photoflo to figure out since every color
seems to require a different amount. I mix all the colors with water and let
them sit for a day and then slowly add drops to each color and try it on the
size until it behaves like I want. Note also even if a color does not sink by
itself it may behave very differently when dropped on another color with more or
less Photoflo. Yes it's a bit like juggling 10 balls at a time. Well ok it's not
that hard but it does take time.
> >
> > The Mediums are much more consistent - I use 60 acrylic to 40 medium plus
water until the consistency is what you want. Add a little water until it flows
the way you want. The use of medium will affect the feel of fabric when you are
done and does require thorough rinsing.
> >
> > Finally Galen Berry sells good supplies and in particular trays that provide
an easy way to use a rinsing board. See his web site: www.marbleart.us
> >
> > George
> >
>
If you will to www.youtube.com and put either marbling or ebru or
suminagashi in the search box, you will find lots and lotso f videos, some
better than others. Some are of marbled fingernails, so you have to pick
and choose. One of my favorites is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54OILOfT1bs with several other good ones to
the right and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEr74KpznrE this one for suminagashi you
don't usually rinse the suminagashi papers, just the marbled ones.
Good Luck,
Sue
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi I am Dee from Saskatchewan Canada and I have been learning the art of
marbling and I do want to know if anyone knows where I can buy Carragheenan
powder here in Canada please?
I look forward to meeting everyone and would love to view your albums soon.
Dee
Hi Dee,
Before you do anyhing, contact Lucie La Pierre, he is in Montreal and a Master
Marbler. You can find her information at the website of Les Relieurs du Quebec.
They are at AQRAL website = www.relieursduquebec.ca, you will find some of the
most accomplished marblers and bookbinders and book artists in the world are
right there in Canada, and the supplies cosst a bit less. Should you get a
chance google Robert WU, his work is inspiring and quite beautiful and bold.
Marbling is an extraordinary art and become yourown palette.
Good luck withyour research;
momo
--- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "naturedee" <patches2008@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I am Dee from Saskatchewan Canada and I have been learning the art of
marbling and I do want to know if anyone knows where I can buy Carragheenan
powder here in Canada please?
> I look forward to meeting everyone and would love to view your albums soon.
> Dee
>
Hi and thanks so much for your information regarding marbling, I will look for
some direction on marbling techniques.
Dee from Saskatchewan Canada
From: zozo7bra
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:19 PM
To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Marbling] Re: re-new member
Hi Dee,
Before you do anyhing, contact Lucie La Pierre, he is in Montreal and a Master
Marbler. You can find her information at the website of Les Relieurs du Quebec.
They are at AQRAL website = www.relieursduquebec.ca, you will find some of the
most accomplished marblers and bookbinders and book artists in the world are
right there in Canada, and the supplies cosst a bit less. Should you get a
chance google Robert WU, his work is inspiring and quite beautiful and bold.
Marbling is an extraordinary art and become yourown palette.
Good luck withyour research;
momo
--- In mailto:Marbling%40yahoogroups.com, "naturedee" <patches2008@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I am Dee from Saskatchewan Canada and I have been learning the art of
marbling and I do want to know if anyone knows where I can buy Carragheenan
powder here in Canada please?
> I look forward to meeting everyone and would love to view your albums soon.
> Dee
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello everyone!
I've discovered the other days on a "bottom shelf" something new, at least to
me, it's all about Maimeri marbling gel... which of I don't know anything. what
kind of powder it is MC,CMC, Carrag.?
or it is suitable for paper, fabric?
I've attached below a link whit someone who uses this product:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRdYiwkCUAA
Best regards, Chris.
Hello Dee from Saskatchewan and welcome to the group.
Caragheenan and other marbling supplies can be purchased from the
Papertrail in New Dundee Ontario. Their web site is www.papertrail.ca
Anne in Ontario
On Tue, Nov 20, 2012 at 8:29 PM, naturedee <patches2008@...> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Hi I am Dee from Saskatchewan Canada and I have been learning the art of
> marbling and I do want to know if anyone knows where I can buy Carragheenan
> powder here in Canada please?
> I look forward to meeting everyone and would love to view your albums soon.
> Dee
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Send Email
