Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --

The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the
mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin.  They
are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for
transport pulled them out of their conduit.  Where do they connect into the
boat's electrical system?

Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?  It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly.  Two or three wooden
boards would look very nice in there.

What size genoa sheets work best?  The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip
through the winch self-tailing mechanism.  I tried a small piece of 7/16", but
that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.

Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?  I only have one cleat on the mast,
and the topping lift needs it.  At the moment, I have run the halyard through a
turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a
very good solution.  I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe
one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.

Thanks for your input --

Lenny

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Lenny,

My set up is different in a couple ways.

Mast wires run out just near the cabin top like yours.  Then down to eyelets on
a screw junction block three feet off the mast step.  The boat wires run up from
cabin sole next through a notch in the port side next to the mast step.  There
are a couple wire ties screwed to the mast to keep the wires out of the way. 
This is fairly convenient for removing the mast, which I do every year now.  I
can get the wires clear and out before the mast goes up to far.

I still have the same hatch.  Have a nice cloth screen with 1" rope around the
outside that I can thow over the hatch area.  Keeps the bugs out and the air
moving when I am on the boat.

Have 1/2" genoa sheets, they work fine for the the winches but are heavy when
the winds are light.

My boat is set up with two turning blocks on the port side of the mast leading
back to a deck organizer then to spinlocks near the port cabin top winch.  This
side serves the main and 1st jib halyards.  Similarly the starboard side has
three turning blocks, deck organizer then spinlocks near the starboard cabin top
winch.  The starboard side serves the 2nd jib halyard, spinnaker halyard and
toping lift.  Pole down hall runs along the deck to a cam cleat on the side of
the cabin.  Everything right back to cockpit, very convenient with minimal crew
requirements.

Bruce


--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@... wrote:
>
> Lenny:  here"s some of my thoughts to your questions.
>
> Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system
>
> - on my boat, the wires exit through the mast (a hole near the step), then run
under the floor boards.  They connect the the house wiring in the bilge area
underneath the storage area in the v-berth.
>
> Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?
>
> -  I am still dealing with the one piece hatch, but its on the list to replace
or modify....like cut in two with a teak batten trim board affixed to cover the
cut.  Or, I may go all out and fab a similar hatch out of teak.
>
> What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8"
>
> - I would go with 9-12 mm, depending on how thick you like your sheet.  Weight
of the sheet on the clew is a consideration.  I have 9.5 mm dyneema double
braid.
> Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?
>
> - I have a spinlock xts rope clutch rivetted to the side of the mast (above
the gooseneck).  I might have not done it this way, but it does work.
>
> Jason
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...>
>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:57:11
> To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [J28Sailors] A few questions
>
>
> Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
>
> The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the
mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin.  They
are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for
transport pulled them out of their conduit.  Where do they connect into the
boat's electrical system?
>
> Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?  It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly.  Two or three wooden
boards would look very nice in there.
>
> What size genoa sheets work best?  The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip
through the winch self-tailing mechanism.  I tried a small piece of 7/16", but
that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
>
> Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?  I only have one cleat on the mast,
and the topping lift needs it.  At the moment, I have run the halyard through a
turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a
very good solution.  I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe
one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
>
> Thanks for your input --
>
> Lenny
>

Tom,

Take a look at Jason's pictures of his backstay in the photo section.  His back
stay adjuster is way down in the photo and there is lots of room to tighten the
turn buckles.

This backstay set up looks quite loose compared to mine.  My adjuster goes
almost back to the top of the triangle when the tension is off.

Bruce

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "thconway1" <actionman@...> wrote:
>
> My forestay used to have 10+ inches of sag.  It would be swinging when the
backstay was completely off.  Now it has about 6 inches of sag in a good breeze.
This is just eyeing it out, but it has half the sag it used to.
>
> I did not cut the headstay, I just tightened the adjustment part.  The yard
made it connect, but never tightened it.
>
> The uppers are probably not hard enough.  I don't have a gauge.  There is
little give when I press against them.
>
> As far as shortening the backstay, I would do this since I want the whole mast
to come back further.  I think a raked back mast has better speed potential. 
The backstay is very useful for tightening the headstay.  While it is not one to
one, tension on the backstay definitely helps tighten the headstay.  You should
always have backstay tension upwind in anything over 8.  Swept back shrouds keep
the tension on, but the backstay will help.
>
> I would still want the backstay shorter since if the mast were to tilt back
further, I would have no way to flatten the main.
>
> I am used to runners on a frac rig, so it is taking some adjustment to figure
out the proper shroud tension and how much the bachstay helps.
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the feedback.  A few questions:
> >
> > Can you describe how loose your forestay is/was?
> >
> > When you say, "shortened", did you physically cut and reswage, or just
tighten up the forestay attachment?
> >
> > How hard do you have the upper shrouds set on your boat?
> >
> > You said your preference would have been to shorten the backstay...can you
explain that concept a bit further?  I was under the impression the backstay on
a 3/4 frac really influenced only the top mast, the forestay would receive very
little addtl tension from pulling the backstay on hard.  Is this assumption
wrong (and I definitely could be here)?
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: "thconway1" <actionman@>
> >
> > Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:59:33
> > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [J28Sailors] Re: Forestay Problem?
> >
> >
> > My forestay has been too loose for a while.  I finally shortened it this
year.  I would have preferred to leave it longer and shorten the backstay, but I
was not ready for that project.
> >
> > To tighten your headstay, you should be able to get a little from putting
the backstay on hard and tightening the shrouds.
> >
> > There is a good guide out there, but I do not know the link.  I brought the
mast forward using a halyard.  Then I had to take apart the furler and tighten
it up.  It was confusing since threads are going in different directions.  The
whole thing took two hours and I had a helper.
> >
> > You will also need one or two vice grips to keep the RF foil above where you
are working.
> >
> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The backstay definitely helps tension the forestay.  Think about how
tensioning the backstay bends the mast -- additional force aft at the top of the
mast is opposed by (additional) forward force at the partners by the forestay,
putting a torque on the mast and bending it.  That additional forward force is
in the form of higher tension on the forestay.  Anyway, that's how it seems to
the engineer in me.  Lenny
> > >
> > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Not aware of a turn buckle on the forstay, but the revious owner
installed roller furling.  I always have set some initial tension in the
backstay, even with backstay adjuster all the way off.  I am not sure if this is
correct or how much initial tension should be on the backstay.
> > > >
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I think my forestay may be too loose.  We were out today in 8-12 knts;
> > > > > sailing close-hauled, I could see the roller-fuler foil
> > > > > oscillating/moving back and forth, shaking the rig.  This happened
> > > > > when I was pinching up a bit to clear a shoal.  It did not occur last
> > > > > year and there have been no changes to the rig / tension that I know
> > > > > about.  The backstay was fully off, but I don't think this should have
> > > > > an effect with our fractional rigs.
> > > > >
> > > > > At the dock, I think I can see a bit of sag up the forestay (hard to
> > > > > tell with the sail furled).  I can swing the furler sailed in approx 6
> > > > > in circle.  Also, I am not sure if I can point as well as last year
> > > > > (30-35 deg apparent)
> > > > >
> > > > > So....is the forestay too lose?  I know the majority of the forestay
> > > > > tension is generated by the upper / cap shrouds, but do you guys know
> > > > > if there is a turnbuckle under the furler?  I am a little worried
> > > > > about it being too loose....to the point where it is dangerous.
> > > > >
> > > > > Insight appreciated.  I am a real novice with rig tuning.  I plan to
> > > > > read up on it more tonight.  We're expecting 15-20, gusts to 30knts
> > > > > tomm, so I will have an opportunity to test all the heavy air tech
> > > > > tips we discussed earlier this week.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks!
> > > > >
> > > > > Jason
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Bruce:

My backstay is on a 4 to 1 setup in the middle of the stern.  I guess the
previous owner did not like the triangle.  So I can not compare by pictures.

I know that I can take the backstay down at least two feet from slack.  I miss
the control that runners give the mast, but not the hassle.

As far as the triangle, I think it is best to have it at the top when it is off.
If it is not there, you need to adjust the backstay or shorten the headstay.  I
don't know if that setup will have enough to properly tighten the backstay in a
breeze.

Tom


--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@...> wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> Take a look at Jason's pictures of his backstay in the photo section.  His
back stay adjuster is way down in the photo and there is lots of room to tighten
the turn buckles.
>
> This backstay set up looks quite loose compared to mine.  My adjuster goes
almost back to the top of the triangle when the tension is off.
>
> Bruce
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "thconway1" <actionman@> wrote:
> >
> > My forestay used to have 10+ inches of sag.  It would be swinging when the
backstay was completely off.  Now it has about 6 inches of sag in a good breeze.
This is just eyeing it out, but it has half the sag it used to.
> >
> > I did not cut the headstay, I just tightened the adjustment part.  The yard
made it connect, but never tightened it.
> >
> > The uppers are probably not hard enough.  I don't have a gauge.  There is
little give when I press against them.
> >
> > As far as shortening the backstay, I would do this since I want the whole
mast to come back further.  I think a raked back mast has better speed
potential.  The backstay is very useful for tightening the headstay.  While it
is not one to one, tension on the backstay definitely helps tighten the
headstay.  You should always have backstay tension upwind in anything over 8. 
Swept back shrouds keep the tension on, but the backstay will help.
> >
> > I would still want the backstay shorter since if the mast were to tilt back
further, I would have no way to flatten the main.
> >
> > I am used to runners on a frac rig, so it is taking some adjustment to
figure out the proper shroud tension and how much the bachstay helps.
> >
> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for the feedback.  A few questions:
> > >
> > > Can you describe how loose your forestay is/was?
> > >
> > > When you say, "shortened", did you physically cut and reswage, or just
tighten up the forestay attachment?
> > >
> > > How hard do you have the upper shrouds set on your boat?
> > >
> > > You said your preference would have been to shorten the backstay...can you
explain that concept a bit further?  I was under the impression the backstay on
a 3/4 frac really influenced only the top mast, the forestay would receive very
little addtl tension from pulling the backstay on hard.  Is this assumption
wrong (and I definitely could be here)?
> > >
> > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: "thconway1" <actionman@>
> > >
> > > Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:59:33
> > > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [J28Sailors] Re: Forestay Problem?
> > >
> > >
> > > My forestay has been too loose for a while.  I finally shortened it this
year.  I would have preferred to leave it longer and shorten the backstay, but I
was not ready for that project.
> > >
> > > To tighten your headstay, you should be able to get a little from putting
the backstay on hard and tightening the shrouds.
> > >
> > > There is a good guide out there, but I do not know the link.  I brought
the mast forward using a halyard.  Then I had to take apart the furler and
tighten it up.  It was confusing since threads are going in different
directions.  The whole thing took two hours and I had a helper.
> > >
> > > You will also need one or two vice grips to keep the RF foil above where
you are working.
> > >
> > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The backstay definitely helps tension the forestay.  Think about how
tensioning the backstay bends the mast -- additional force aft at the top of the
mast is opposed by (additional) forward force at the partners by the forestay,
putting a torque on the mast and bending it.  That additional forward force is
in the form of higher tension on the forestay.  Anyway, that's how it seems to
the engineer in me.  Lenny
> > > >
> > > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Not aware of a turn buckle on the forstay, but the revious owner
installed roller furling.  I always have set some initial tension in the
backstay, even with backstay adjuster all the way off.  I am not sure if this is
correct or how much initial tension should be on the backstay.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bruce
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think my forestay may be too loose.  We were out today in 8-12
knts;
> > > > > > sailing close-hauled, I could see the roller-fuler foil
> > > > > > oscillating/moving back and forth, shaking the rig.  This happened
> > > > > > when I was pinching up a bit to clear a shoal.  It did not occur
last
> > > > > > year and there have been no changes to the rig / tension that I know
> > > > > > about.  The backstay was fully off, but I don't think this should
have
> > > > > > an effect with our fractional rigs.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > At the dock, I think I can see a bit of sag up the forestay (hard to
> > > > > > tell with the sail furled).  I can swing the furler sailed in approx
6
> > > > > > in circle.  Also, I am not sure if I can point as well as last year
> > > > > > (30-35 deg apparent)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > So....is the forestay too lose?  I know the majority of the forestay
> > > > > > tension is generated by the upper / cap shrouds, but do you guys
know
> > > > > > if there is a turnbuckle under the furler?  I am a little worried
> > > > > > about it being too loose....to the point where it is dangerous.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Insight appreciated.  I am a real novice with rig tuning.  I plan to
> > > > > > read up on it more tonight.  We're expecting 15-20, gusts to 30knts
> > > > > > tomm, so I will have an opportunity to test all the heavy air tech
> > > > > > tips we discussed earlier this week.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jason
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I replaced 1/2 inch sheets with 3/8.  They are very slippery on the winch
compared to 1/2.  1/2 just seems overkill, but everything on this boat seems
like it was designed for a bigger boat including the primaries.  That is part of
my love for this boat.  I take a 3 and 1 year old out, so I like having
everything over specs.

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@...> wrote:
>
> Lenny,
>
> My set up is different in a couple ways.
>
> Mast wires run out just near the cabin top like yours.  Then down to eyelets
on a screw junction block three feet off the mast step.  The boat wires run up
from cabin sole next through a notch in the port side next to the mast step. 
There are a couple wire ties screwed to the mast to keep the wires out of the
way.  This is fairly convenient for removing the mast, which I do every year
now.  I can get the wires clear and out before the mast goes up to far.
>
> I still have the same hatch.  Have a nice cloth screen with 1" rope around the
outside that I can thow over the hatch area.  Keeps the bugs out and the air
moving when I am on the boat.
>
> Have 1/2" genoa sheets, they work fine for the the winches but are heavy when
the winds are light.
>
> My boat is set up with two turning blocks on the port side of the mast leading
back to a deck organizer then to spinlocks near the port cabin top winch.  This
side serves the main and 1st jib halyards.  Similarly the starboard side has
three turning blocks, deck organizer then spinlocks near the starboard cabin top
winch.  The starboard side serves the 2nd jib halyard, spinnaker halyard and
toping lift.  Pole down hall runs along the deck to a cam cleat on the side of
the cabin.  Everything right back to cockpit, very convenient with minimal crew
requirements.
>
> Bruce
>
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
> >
> > Lenny:  here"s some of my thoughts to your questions.
> >
> > Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system
> >
> > - on my boat, the wires exit through the mast (a hole near the step), then
run under the floor boards.  They connect the the house wiring in the bilge area
underneath the storage area in the v-berth.
> >
> > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?
> >
> > -  I am still dealing with the one piece hatch, but its on the list to
replace or modify....like cut in two with a teak batten trim board affixed to
cover the cut.  Or, I may go all out and fab a similar hatch out of teak.
> >
> > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8"
> >
> > - I would go with 9-12 mm, depending on how thick you like your sheet. 
Weight of the sheet on the clew is a consideration.  I have 9.5 mm dyneema
double braid.
> > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?
> >
> > - I have a spinlock xts rope clutch rivetted to the side of the mast (above
the gooseneck).  I might have not done it this way, but it does work.
> >
> > Jason
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@>
> >
> > Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:57:11
> > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [J28Sailors] A few questions
> >
> >
> > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
> >
> > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit
the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. 
They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat
for transport pulled them out of their conduit.  Where do they connect into the
boat's electrical system?
> >
> > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?  It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly.  Two or three wooden
boards would look very nice in there.
> >
> > What size genoa sheets work best?  The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and
slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism.  I tried a small piece of 7/16",
but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
> >
> > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?  I only have one cleat on the
mast, and the topping lift needs it.  At the moment, I have run the halyard
through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail
-- not a very good solution.  I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast
or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
> >
> > Thanks for your input --
> >
> > Lenny
> >
>

There is a turnbuckle built into the furler. It's a bit of a PITA to adjust but
worth the effort. Tensioning the backstay does not tension the forestay as much
as you think (if any) on a fractional boat. The caps do tension the forestay.

  To adjust the forestay turnbuckle loosen the nut and locking washer at the
bottom of the furler above the clevis.
Take the foil clamp off the furler. You should be able to get a visecrimp on the
forstay inner cable.
  turn the furler at the bottom to tighten.

It's best to do this with the sail off. And, There may be somrthing esle to
disassemble on the furler but I can't remember I toke main completely apart a
few years ago.

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "thconway1" <actionman@...> wrote:
>
> My forestay has been too loose for a while.  I finally shortened it this year.
I would have preferred to leave it longer and shorten the backstay, but I was
not ready for that project.
>
> To tighten your headstay, you should be able to get a little from putting the
backstay on hard and tightening the shrouds.
>
> There is a good guide out there, but I do not know the link.  I brought the
mast forward using a halyard.  Then I had to take apart the furler and tighten
it up.  It was confusing since threads are going in different directions.  The
whole thing took two hours and I had a helper.
>
> You will also need one or two vice grips to keep the RF foil above where you
are working.
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> >
> > The backstay definitely helps tension the forestay.  Think about how
tensioning the backstay bends the mast -- additional force aft at the top of the
mast is opposed by (additional) forward force at the partners by the forestay,
putting a torque on the mast and bending it.  That additional forward force is
in the form of higher tension on the forestay.  Anyway, that's how it seems to
the engineer in me.  Lenny
> >
> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Not aware of a turn buckle on the forstay, but the revious owner installed
roller furling.  I always have set some initial tension in the backstay, even
with backstay adjuster all the way off.  I am not sure if this is correct or how
much initial tension should be on the backstay.
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I think my forestay may be too loose.  We were out today in 8-12 knts;
> > > > sailing close-hauled, I could see the roller-fuler foil
> > > > oscillating/moving back and forth, shaking the rig.  This happened
> > > > when I was pinching up a bit to clear a shoal.  It did not occur last
> > > > year and there have been no changes to the rig / tension that I know
> > > > about.  The backstay was fully off, but I don't think this should have
> > > > an effect with our fractional rigs.
> > > >
> > > > At the dock, I think I can see a bit of sag up the forestay (hard to
> > > > tell with the sail furled).  I can swing the furler sailed in approx 6
> > > > in circle.  Also, I am not sure if I can point as well as last year
> > > > (30-35 deg apparent)
> > > >
> > > > So....is the forestay too lose?  I know the majority of the forestay
> > > > tension is generated by the upper / cap shrouds, but do you guys know
> > > > if there is a turnbuckle under the furler?  I am a little worried
> > > > about it being too loose....to the point where it is dangerous.
> > > >
> > > > Insight appreciated.  I am a real novice with rig tuning.  I plan to
> > > > read up on it more tonight.  We're expecting 15-20, gusts to 30knts
> > > > tomm, so I will have an opportunity to test all the heavy air tech
> > > > tips we discussed earlier this week.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > >
> > > > Jason
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I've posted a photo of "Ruffian," taken today in Rockland harbor.  That's a
Hinckley Picnic Boat beside it and a Tartan 3500 just beyond.  "Abbie Burgess"
is a Coast Guard ship--the Rockland Coast Guard station is just beside the
marina.  And yes, that's a bit of Maine fog (but light one) that you see.

Very cool.  We were anchored next to a 3500 Sat nt in Harris Creek /
Chesapeake Bay.  Pretty boat, but with all the issues and warranty
avoidance that recently surfaced, you couldn't give me one.

Get some sails on Ruffian, Lenny!

I had forgotten just how much of a tidal range there is in Maine,
those floating dock pilings must be REALLY tall.


On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Lenny Reich<lsreich@...> wrote:
>
>
> I've posted a photo of "Ruffian," taken today in Rockland harbor. That's a
> Hinckley Picnic Boat beside it and a Tartan 3500 just beyond. "Abbie
> Burgess" is a Coast Guard ship--the Rockland Coast Guard station is just
> beside the marina. And yes, that's a bit of Maine fog (but light one) that
> you see.
>
>

Speaking of anchoring, Does everyone esle's boat swing at anchor? My boat swings
about 120 degrees. This does make some neighbors pretty touchy when in close
quarters

What can be done to minimize this. I'd like to put a rideing sail up but rigging
it would be difficult with the split backstay

I agree, our boats do tend to sail on the anchor quite a bit.  This is
also the case on my folks J/34c.

The best idea I've come with is to attach the riding sail at the end
of the boom, using the main halyard as the hoist, shackling the clew
to the out haul and leading a long line to the gooseneck to secure the
tack.  Admittedly, this is my theory and I haven't tried it in
practice.

On Mon, Jun 29, 2009 at 12:39 PM, jfws88<jfws88@...> wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of anchoring, Does everyone esle's boat swing at anchor? My boat
> swings about 120 degrees. This does make some neighbors pretty touchy when
> in close quarters
>
> What can be done to minimize this. I'd like to put a rideing sail up but
> rigging it would be difficult with the split backstay
>
>

Bruce,
I am reading this as a suggestion to review how my backstay is setup!

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 11:05 PM, j28sailor50<misailor@...> wrote:
>
>
> Tom,
>
> Take a look at Jason's pictures of his backstay in the photo section. His
> back stay adjuster is way down in the photo and there is lots of room to
> tighten the turn buckles.
>
> This backstay set up looks quite loose compared to mine. My adjuster goes
> almost back to the top of the triangle when the tension is off.
>
> Bruce
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "thconway1" <actionman@...> wrote:
>>
>> My forestay used to have 10+ inches of sag. It would be swinging when the
>> backstay was completely off. Now it has about 6 inches of sag in a good
>> breeze. This is just eyeing it out, but it has half the sag it used to.
>>
>> I did not cut the headstay, I just tightened the adjustment part. The yard
>> made it connect, but never tightened it.
>>
>> The uppers are probably not hard enough. I don't have a gauge. There is
>> little give when I press against them.
>>
>> As far as shortening the backstay, I would do this since I want the whole
>> mast to come back further. I think a raked back mast has better speed
>> potential. The backstay is very useful for tightening the headstay. While it
>> is not one to one, tension on the backstay definitely helps tighten the
>> headstay. You should always have backstay tension upwind in anything over 8.
>> Swept back shrouds keep the tension on, but the backstay will help.
>>
>> I would still want the backstay shorter since if the mast were to tilt
>> back further, I would have no way to flatten the main.
>>
>> I am used to runners on a frac rig, so it is taking some adjustment to
>> figure out the proper shroud tension and how much the bachstay helps.
>>
>> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
>> >
>> > Thanks for the feedback. A few questions:
>> >
>> > Can you describe how loose your forestay is/was?
>> >
>> > When you say, "shortened", did you physically cut and reswage, or just
>> > tighten up the forestay attachment?
>> >
>> > How hard do you have the upper shrouds set on your boat?
>> >
>> > You said your preference would have been to shorten the backstay...can
>> > you explain that concept a bit further? I was under the impression the
>> > backstay on a 3/4 frac really influenced only the top mast, the forestay
>> > would receive very little addtl tension from pulling the backstay on hard.
>> > Is this assumption wrong (and I definitely could be here)?
>> >
>> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: "thconway1" <actionman@>
>> >
>> > Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:59:33
>> > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
>> > Subject: [J28Sailors] Re: Forestay Problem?
>> >
>> >
>> > My forestay has been too loose for a while. I finally shortened it this
>> > year. I would have preferred to leave it longer and shorten the backstay,
>> > but I was not ready for that project.
>> >
>> > To tighten your headstay, you should be able to get a little from
>> > putting the backstay on hard and tightening the shrouds.
>> >
>> > There is a good guide out there, but I do not know the link. I brought
>> > the mast forward using a halyard. Then I had to take apart the furler and
>> > tighten it up. It was confusing since threads are going in different
>> > directions. The whole thing took two hours and I had a helper.
>> >
>> > You will also need one or two vice grips to keep the RF foil above where
>> > you are working.
>> >
>> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > The backstay definitely helps tension the forestay. Think about how
>> > > tensioning the backstay bends the mast -- additional force aft at the top
of
>> > > the mast is opposed by (additional) forward force at the partners by the
>> > > forestay, putting a torque on the mast and bending it. That additional
>> > > forward force is in the form of higher tension on the forestay. Anyway,
>> > > that's how it seems to the engineer in me. Lenny
>> > >
>> > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > Not aware of a turn buckle on the forstay, but the revious owner
>> > > > installed roller furling. I always have set some initial tension in the
>> > > > backstay, even with backstay adjuster all the way off. I am not sure if
this
>> > > > is correct or how much initial tension should be on the backstay.
>> > > >
>> > > > Bruce
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@> wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > > I think my forestay may be too loose. We were out today in 8-12
>> > > > > knts;
>> > > > > sailing close-hauled, I could see the roller-fuler foil
>> > > > > oscillating/moving back and forth, shaking the rig. This happened
>> > > > > when I was pinching up a bit to clear a shoal. It did not occur
>> > > > > last
>> > > > > year and there have been no changes to the rig / tension that I
>> > > > > know
>> > > > > about. The backstay was fully off, but I don't think this should
>> > > > > have
>> > > > > an effect with our fractional rigs.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > At the dock, I think I can see a bit of sag up the forestay (hard
>> > > > > to
>> > > > > tell with the sail furled). I can swing the furler sailed in
>> > > > > approx 6
>> > > > > in circle. Also, I am not sure if I can point as well as last year
>> > > > > (30-35 deg apparent)
>> > > > >
>> > > > > So....is the forestay too lose? I know the majority of the
>> > > > > forestay
>> > > > > tension is generated by the upper / cap shrouds, but do you guys
>> > > > > know
>> > > > > if there is a turnbuckle under the furler? I am a little worried
>> > > > > about it being too loose....to the point where it is dangerous.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Insight appreciated. I am a real novice with rig tuning. I plan to
>> > > > > read up on it more tonight. We're expecting 15-20, gusts to 30knts
>> > > > > tomm, so I will have an opportunity to test all the heavy air tech
>> > > > > tips we discussed earlier this week.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Thanks!
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Jason
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
>>
>
>

I am upgrading my traveler system and need to get the old track up.  I removed
the screws on both sides but to my surprise couldn't budge the thing, even with
persuasion by heavy hard-rubber mallet.  It's obviously held down with something
strong.  I know that several others have changed out their travelers.  Is there
a trick/technique to getting the track up?

Lenny

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Jason,

Right, I was looking at your pictures that show your backstay.  My and comparing
them to my boat.  Your turn buckles have much more thread showing than mine. 
Between the center nut and turn buckle I have between a 1/2" and 3/4" of thread.

Also, when the tension is off my backstay adjuster, the two blocks on the cables
are at the top of the cables.  Yours looks like it is down a foot and a half at
the dock.  Not where it should be if there is no tension on the adjuster.

I would try to tensioning the backstay turn buckles first to see if this puts
some tension on the headstay without adding bend to the mast.

I will add a picture that shows my backstay on the photo page.

Bruce

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@...> wrote:
>
> Bruce,
> I am reading this as a suggestion to review how my backstay is setup!
>
> On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 11:05 PM, j28sailor50<misailor@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > Take a look at Jason's pictures of his backstay in the photo section. His
> > back stay adjuster is way down in the photo and there is lots of room to
> > tighten the turn buckles.
> >
> > This backstay set up looks quite loose compared to mine. My adjuster goes
> > almost back to the top of the triangle when the tension is off.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "thconway1" <actionman@> wrote:
> >>
> >> My forestay used to have 10+ inches of sag. It would be swinging when the
> >> backstay was completely off. Now it has about 6 inches of sag in a good
> >> breeze. This is just eyeing it out, but it has half the sag it used to.
> >>
> >> I did not cut the headstay, I just tightened the adjustment part. The yard
> >> made it connect, but never tightened it.
> >>
> >> The uppers are probably not hard enough. I don't have a gauge. There is
> >> little give when I press against them.
> >>
> >> As far as shortening the backstay, I would do this since I want the whole
> >> mast to come back further. I think a raked back mast has better speed
> >> potential. The backstay is very useful for tightening the headstay. While
it
> >> is not one to one, tension on the backstay definitely helps tighten the
> >> headstay. You should always have backstay tension upwind in anything over
8.
> >> Swept back shrouds keep the tension on, but the backstay will help.
> >>
> >> I would still want the backstay shorter since if the mast were to tilt
> >> back further, I would have no way to flatten the main.
> >>
> >> I am used to runners on a frac rig, so it is taking some adjustment to
> >> figure out the proper shroud tension and how much the bachstay helps.
> >>
> >> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Thanks for the feedback. A few questions:
> >> >
> >> > Can you describe how loose your forestay is/was?
> >> >
> >> > When you say, "shortened", did you physically cut and reswage, or just
> >> > tighten up the forestay attachment?
> >> >
> >> > How hard do you have the upper shrouds set on your boat?
> >> >
> >> > You said your preference would have been to shorten the backstay...can
> >> > you explain that concept a bit further? I was under the impression the
> >> > backstay on a 3/4 frac really influenced only the top mast, the forestay
> >> > would receive very little addtl tension from pulling the backstay on
hard.
> >> > Is this assumption wrong (and I definitely could be here)?
> >> >
> >> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: "thconway1" <actionman@>
> >> >
> >> > Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:59:33
> >> > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> >> > Subject: [J28Sailors] Re: Forestay Problem?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > My forestay has been too loose for a while. I finally shortened it this
> >> > year. I would have preferred to leave it longer and shorten the backstay,
> >> > but I was not ready for that project.
> >> >
> >> > To tighten your headstay, you should be able to get a little from
> >> > putting the backstay on hard and tightening the shrouds.
> >> >
> >> > There is a good guide out there, but I do not know the link. I brought
> >> > the mast forward using a halyard. Then I had to take apart the furler and
> >> > tighten it up. It was confusing since threads are going in different
> >> > directions. The whole thing took two hours and I had a helper.
> >> >
> >> > You will also need one or two vice grips to keep the RF foil above where
> >> > you are working.
> >> >
> >> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > The backstay definitely helps tension the forestay. Think about how
> >> > > tensioning the backstay bends the mast -- additional force aft at the
top of
> >> > > the mast is opposed by (additional) forward force at the partners by
the
> >> > > forestay, putting a torque on the mast and bending it. That additional
> >> > > forward force is in the form of higher tension on the forestay. Anyway,
> >> > > that's how it seems to the engineer in me. Lenny
> >> > >
> >> > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@> wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Not aware of a turn buckle on the forstay, but the revious owner
> >> > > > installed roller furling. I always have set some initial tension in
the
> >> > > > backstay, even with backstay adjuster all the way off. I am not sure
if this
> >> > > > is correct or how much initial tension should be on the backstay.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Bruce
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@> wrote:
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > I think my forestay may be too loose. We were out today in 8-12
> >> > > > > knts;
> >> > > > > sailing close-hauled, I could see the roller-fuler foil
> >> > > > > oscillating/moving back and forth, shaking the rig. This happened
> >> > > > > when I was pinching up a bit to clear a shoal. It did not occur
> >> > > > > last
> >> > > > > year and there have been no changes to the rig / tension that I
> >> > > > > know
> >> > > > > about. The backstay was fully off, but I don't think this should
> >> > > > > have
> >> > > > > an effect with our fractional rigs.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > At the dock, I think I can see a bit of sag up the forestay (hard
> >> > > > > to
> >> > > > > tell with the sail furled). I can swing the furler sailed in
> >> > > > > approx 6
> >> > > > > in circle. Also, I am not sure if I can point as well as last year
> >> > > > > (30-35 deg apparent)
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > So....is the forestay too lose? I know the majority of the
> >> > > > > forestay
> >> > > > > tension is generated by the upper / cap shrouds, but do you guys
> >> > > > > know
> >> > > > > if there is a turnbuckle under the furler? I am a little worried
> >> > > > > about it being too loose....to the point where it is dangerous.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > Insight appreciated. I am a real novice with rig tuning. I plan to
> >> > > > > read up on it more tonight. We're expecting 15-20, gusts to 30knts
> >> > > > > tomm, so I will have an opportunity to test all the heavy air tech
> >> > > > > tips we discussed earlier this week.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > Thanks!
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > Jason
> >> > > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
>

Jason:  Did you have difficulty getting your track off?  If so, what did you do?
We checked the bolts pretty carefully -- took off two large and two small bolts
on each side, plus the end cap. I will check again to see if we missed any.

I have dealt with a local Maine sailmaker and rigger for years (Doug Pope at
Pope Sails and Rigging).  Doug sells Harken gear for as good a discount than
I've been able to find anywhere.  Doug said that the easiest and cheapest way to
effect traveler control (without drilling holes in the boat) was to get the
Harken end control blocks with two sheaves and cam cleats that fit the present
track (#3170). I have them.  All I need to do now is put them on...

Regarding earlier comments about the tide here on midcoast Maine, I'm used to it
after 20 years so it seems normal.  In the photo I recently posted, tide is
about one-third above bottom, on the way up.  You can see where the recent high
tide wetted the pilings.  Normal tide range here is 10', with neap tides of
8'-9' and spring tides around 11'-12'.  That induces some serious currents in
places, so it's best to be aware of what's happening when sailing the coast. 
About 10 years ago, I took a boat over to Annapolis Basin (at Digby) on the west
coast of Nova Scotia, where the tides are more like 25' and tidal currents reach
6 knots at full bore.  That was truly awe-inspiring!

Lenny


> Did you crawl in the lockers and make sure there isn't a hidden through-bolt? 
Sometimes, they are hidden.  Or, this could be a case of 5200itis, where you a
dealing with an adhesive stronger than your mallett.
>
> What kind of system did you go with?

Lenny I changed my traveller a few years aogo and it was "glued and screwed"
down. It did take some effort to get iit up. I replaced it with a gauraher (sp)
unit it am very happy with it. See my pictures.

John

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@... wrote:
>
> Did you crawl in the lockers and make sure there isn't a hidden through-bolt? 
Sometimes, they are hidden.  Or, this could be a case of 5200itis, where you a
dealing with an adhesive stronger than your mallett.
>
> What kind of system did you go with?
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...>
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 21:19:18
> To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [J28Sailors] Getting the traveler track off
>
>
> I am upgrading my traveler system and need to get the old track up.  I removed
the screws on both sides but to my surprise couldn't budge the thing, even with
persuasion by heavy hard-rubber mallet.  It's obviously held down with something
strong.  I know that several others have changed out their travelers.  Is there
a trick/technique to getting the track up?
>
> Lenny
>

John:  When you say it took some effort to get it up -- what, exactly, did you
do?  I have already applied a fair amount of force and don't want to damage the
track or the boat.  Thanks.


> Lenny I changed my traveller a few years aogo and it was "glued and screwed"
down. It did take some effort to get iit up. I replaced it with a gauraher (sp)
unit it am very happy with it. See my pictures.
>
> John
>

Lenny, I seem to remember me being the irresistable force winning againest the
immovable object. I think I did chip the gelcoat aroungd the original mount
holes. If I had to do it again I would try a cable saw to cut throught the
bedding coumpound. I knew I was drilling new mount so I didn't get to upset. The
track wentin the dumpster.

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...> wrote:
>
> John:  When you say it took some effort to get it up -- what, exactly, did you
do?  I have already applied a fair amount of force and don't want to damage the
track or the boat.  Thanks.
>
>
> > Lenny I changed my traveller a few years aogo and it was "glued and screwed"
down. It did take some effort to get iit up. I replaced it with a gauraher (sp)
unit it am very happy with it. See my pictures.
> >
> > John
> >
>

I was commissioning "Ruffian's" fresh-water system today and came across a
strange piece of plumbing.  The drain hose from the head sink goes into a T, one
side heading outboard to a marlon seacock that exits right at the water line,
the other side going through a hose that snakes under the fuel tank and empties
into the bilge through a strange fitting.  I've posted a photo of the fitting in
"Ruffian's" album.

Now, when the water comes out the faucet and goes down the drain, it heads right
for the bilge because that side leads down and the other is more-or-less level. 
The fitting looks like it should be attached to another hose, but none is there.
Is this the way other J/28's are plumbed?  Does anyone know the purpose of the
hose to the bilge?

Thanks.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Lenny,

Checked your pictures, Jason is correct, that is the line and check valve for
the original submersible electric bilge pump.  Looks like you have a different
bilge pickup forward, that I do not have.  The original set up tends to force
bilge water up in the sink if you have a lot to pump.  Then you need a good sink
cleaning.

If you do not need a line for the bilge pump, I would remove the T and install
an elbow below the sink.

Last year I found the line from the sink to the seacock dry rotted and cracked
on the bottom side. Take a close look. My check valve also required replacement
at that time.

Bruce

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@... wrote:
>
> Lenny,  I can't look at the pics, but your setup seems exact to mine.  I
believe the fitting is a check valve.  The bilge pump on compass rose is
attached to the check valve and the bilge uses the sink drain as its overboard.
>
> Not a perfect system, I think.
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...>
>
> Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 00:45:52
> To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [J28Sailors] Plumbing question
>
>
> I was commissioning "Ruffian's" fresh-water system today and came across a
strange piece of plumbing.  The drain hose from the head sink goes into a T, one
side heading outboard to a marlon seacock that exits right at the water line,
the other side going through a hose that snakes under the fuel tank and empties
into the bilge through a strange fitting.  I've posted a photo of the fitting in
"Ruffian's" album.
>
> Now, when the water comes out the faucet and goes down the drain, it heads
right for the bilge because that side leads down and the other is more-or-less
level.  The fitting looks like it should be attached to another hose, but none
is there.  Is this the way other J/28's are plumbed?  Does anyone know the
purpose of the hose to the bilge?
>
> Thanks.
>

Very interesting.  Yes, I have a separate bilge pump line.  The pump itself sits
in the compartment under the starboard setee, just forward of the fuel tank, and
its outflow hose exits the side of the hull below the electric switch box and
behind the setee seat back.  I assumed that was standard, but apparently not.

I would say that the check valve isn't working, because water from the head sink
ran right out and into the bilge.  Guess I'll replace the T with an elbow. 
Thanks, guys.

Lenny

>
> Checked your pictures, Jason is correct, that is the line and check valve for
the original submersible electric bilge pump.  Looks like you have a different
bilge pickup forward, that I do not have.  The original set up tends to force
bilge water up in the sink if you have a lot to pump.  Then you need a good sink
cleaning.
>
> If you do not need a line for the bilge pump, I would remove the T and install
an elbow below the sink.
>
> Last year I found the line from the sink to the seacock dry rotted and cracked
on the bottom side. Take a close look. My check valve also required replacement
at that time.
>
> Bruce
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
> >
> > Lenny,  I can't look at the pics, but your setup seems exact to mine.  I
believe the fitting is a check valve.  The bilge pump on compass rose is
attached to the check valve and the bilge uses the sink drain as its overboard.
> >
> > Not a perfect system, I think.
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@>
> >
> > Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 00:45:52
> > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [J28Sailors] Plumbing question
> >
> >
> > I was commissioning "Ruffian's" fresh-water system today and came across a
strange piece of plumbing.  The drain hose from the head sink goes into a T, one
side heading outboard to a marlon seacock that exits right at the water line,
the other side going through a hose that snakes under the fuel tank and empties
into the bilge through a strange fitting.  I've posted a photo of the fitting in
"Ruffian's" album.
> >
> > Now, when the water comes out the faucet and goes down the drain, it heads
right for the bilge because that side leads down and the other is more-or-less
level.  The fitting looks like it should be attached to another hose, but none
is there.  Is this the way other J/28's are plumbed?  Does anyone know the
purpose of the hose to the bilge?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
>

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...> wrote:
>
> Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
>
> The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the
mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin.  They
are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for
transport pulled them out of their conduit.  Where do they connect into the
boat's electrical system?

I have this very problem and may resort to having a marine electrician fix it
correctly.  Today, we have a trailer hitches' three-prong rubber plug that
connects at the mast step under the floor board (it does not come down from the
ceiling as you described). It doesn't work.  This was an emergency fix two
seasons ago after the boat yard obliterated the original conduit plug.  
However, I know the both lights do technically work as these were tested (with a
12 volt external battery) prior to the mast going up.

From my memory, coming out of the mast, I have two sets of wires and a larger
diameter yellow wire, which I take to be the ground (or lightening rod).

Set 1: yellow + green
Set 2: brown + white

I don't recall the wire colors coming from the boat's electric supply.  I am
confused.

If anyone could help me with the wiring, this would really help me (or better,
take a digital picture) of the connection.




>
> Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?  It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly.  Two or three wooden
boards would look very nice in there.
>
> What size genoa sheets work best?  The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip
through the winch self-tailing mechanism.  I tried a small piece of 7/16", but
that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.

Bigger is definitely better on your hands.  Technically, you can get away with a
good quality sheet like New England Ropes Staset 3/8" but it will chew your
hands to pieces.  I know this, because I did this for my spinnaker sheets.  1/2"
is the way to go and slickness finish goes away after a season.  Milwaukee
Rigging on eBay has decent prices for sta-set.




>
> Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?  I only have one cleat on the mast,
and the topping lift needs it.  At the moment, I have run the halyard through a
turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a
very good solution.  I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe
one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.

You should consider routing the halyard and pole via blocks and a clutch to the
cockpit. I don't like going up to the mast to drop a spinnaker (unless you are
talking about an asymmetric with a sock.


>
> Thanks for your input --
>
> Lenny
>

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "jfws88" <jfws88@...> wrote:
>
> Lenny, I seem to remember me being the irresistable force winning againest the
immovable object. I think I did chip the gelcoat aroungd the original mount
holes. If I had to do it again I would try a cable saw to cut throught the
bedding coumpound. I knew I was drilling new mount so I didn't get to upset. The
track wentin the dumpster.
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> >
> > John:  When you say it took some effort to get it up -- what, exactly, did
you do?  I have already applied a fair amount of force and don't want to damage
the track or the boat.  Thanks.
> >
> >
> > > Lenny I changed my traveller a few years aogo and it was "glued and
screwed" down. It did take some effort to get iit up. I replaced it with a
gauraher (sp) unit it am very happy with it. See my pictures.


John - what Garhauer traveler did you use? I replaced my Harken windward
sheeting car last year -- and I still hate it.  It is one of those little things
that annoys me.  The windward car is great for bringing it above center line,
but every time I tack, it is loose and I have to re-center it.   I can't believe
I spent $200 on this privilege of owning Harken.

-Bob



> > >
> > > John
> > >
> >
>

Connecting the lights will not be too difficult.  Do you want to solder or crimp
on the connections?  Find out the color of the wires on the boat side.  Do you
have 3 or 4 wires on the boat side?  My mast and boat have both black and white
wires for each light, so the set is different.

You know the sets on the mast side.  You can twist one mast set of wires to a
boat set then check to see if it is connected to the right switch before you
make a better connection.

If there are three wires on the boat side one is ground.  We will have to figure
out which one,  I can help you through that.

Bruce


--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28verve" <rryan14@...> wrote:
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> >
> > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
> >
> > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit
the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. 
They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat
for transport pulled them out of their conduit.  Where do they connect into the
boat's electrical system?
>
> I have this very problem and may resort to having a marine electrician fix it
correctly.  Today, we have a trailer hitches' three-prong rubber plug that
connects at the mast step under the floor board (it does not come down from the
ceiling as you described). It doesn't work.  This was an emergency fix two
seasons ago after the boat yard obliterated the original conduit plug.  
However, I know the both lights do technically work as these were tested (with a
12 volt external battery) prior to the mast going up.
>
> From my memory, coming out of the mast, I have two sets of wires and a larger
diameter yellow wire, which I take to be the ground (or lightening rod).
>
> Set 1: yellow + green
> Set 2: brown + white
>
> I don't recall the wire colors coming from the boat's electric supply.  I am
confused.
>
> If anyone could help me with the wiring, this would really help me (or better,
take a digital picture) of the connection.
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the
companionway?  It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly.  Two or three wooden
boards would look very nice in there.
> >
> > What size genoa sheets work best?  The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and
slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism.  I tried a small piece of 7/16",
but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
>
> Bigger is definitely better on your hands.  Technically, you can get away with
a good quality sheet like New England Ropes Staset 3/8" but it will chew your
hands to pieces.  I know this, because I did this for my spinnaker sheets.  1/2"
is the way to go and slickness finish goes away after a season.  Milwaukee
Rigging on eBay has decent prices for sta-set.
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?  I only have one cleat on the
mast, and the topping lift needs it.  At the moment, I have run the halyard
through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail
-- not a very good solution.  I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast
or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
>
> You should consider routing the halyard and pole via blocks and a clutch to
the cockpit. I don't like going up to the mast to drop a spinnaker (unless you
are talking about an asymmetric with a sock.
>
>
> >
> > Thanks for your input --
> >
> > Lenny
> >
>

Here are some pics (some good, some not as clear) from the past few
days.  We had predominate North-NorthWest winds 8-15knts, very unusual
for this time of year.  Thursday was more like 15-18, gusting over
20-22knts.  I found a single reef in the main and about 110% rolled up
genoa worked pretty well as I was beating 30-40 degrees most of the
day....must have tacked 12-15 times.  We anchored in Trippe Creek on
the Tred Avon, a very nice ancorage up river from Oxford, MD.

Lenny, if you go with new jib sheets, you may consider using 5/16
(8mm) - but have an extra cover added to the last 5-6ft on each end to
bulk up the line where it is winched and handled.  Or, use a larger
diameter and strip the cover.  You get the idea.

Lenny,  looked at the photos.  We've confirmed that the orphan hose /
fitting is the check valve for a bilge pump.

I am curious, however:  do you know what the large hose / bronze
reducer / small hose is for?  The corrugated lt gray is the manual
bilge pump.

On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 8:45 PM, Lenny Reich<lsreich@...> wrote:
>
>
> I was commissioning "Ruffian's" fresh-water system today and came across a
> strange piece of plumbing. The drain hose from the head sink goes into a T,
> one side heading outboard to a marlon seacock that exits right at the water
> line, the other side going through a hose that snakes under the fuel tank
> and empties into the bilge through a strange fitting. I've posted a photo of
> the fitting in "Ruffian's" album.
>
> Now, when the water comes out the faucet and goes down the drain, it heads
> right for the bilge because that side leads down and the other is
> more-or-less level. The fitting looks like it should be attached to another
> hose, but none is there. Is this the way other J/28's are plumbed? Does
> anyone know the purpose of the hose to the bilge?
>
> Thanks.
>
>

Bob,

  I have a garhuer MT-3 traveller but without the standard blocks on the end.
Instead I used ther're 25-26 halyard lift blocks to run the lines up vertical on
the cockpit combing. A cam cleat finishes it off. I also use one line to go all
the way around so I can release the windward cleat from the leeward side. Works
very nice. See the pictures in my album.

  John

--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28verve" <rryan14@...> wrote:
>
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "jfws88" <jfws88@> wrote:
> >
> > Lenny, I seem to remember me being the irresistable force winning againest
the immovable object. I think I did chip the gelcoat aroungd the original mount
holes. If I had to do it again I would try a cable saw to cut throught the
bedding coumpound. I knew I was drilling new mount so I didn't get to upset. The
track wentin the dumpster.
> >
> > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
> > >
> > > John:  When you say it took some effort to get it up -- what, exactly, did
you do?  I have already applied a fair amount of force and don't want to damage
the track or the boat.  Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> > > > Lenny I changed my traveller a few years aogo and it was "glued and
screwed" down. It did take some effort to get iit up. I replaced it with a
gauraher (sp) unit it am very happy with it. See my pictures.
>
>
> John - what Garhauer traveler did you use? I replaced my Harken windward
sheeting car last year -- and I still hate it.  It is one of those little things
that annoys me.  The windward car is great for bringing it above center line,
but every time I tack, it is loose and I have to re-center it.   I can't believe
I spent $200 on this privilege of owning Harken.
>
> -Bob
>
>
>
> > > >
> > > > John
> > > >
> > >
> >
>