--- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "Speed Gray" <speedgray@a...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Fellow Slug Casters:
>
> On my recent trip to Toronto to visit the "Halls of Intertype
Heaven"
> and spend time with Mr. Black, I latched on to a few really nice
> parts goodies for my Intertype machines.
>
> Since I now have two C-4 machines, I have decided to make my black
> one my versitle, 8-10-12-14 pt machine; and my "new" gray one
> the "shock and awe" high speed composition machine for 10 and 12
pt.
> slugs only. Since I am becoming such a keyboard wizard (no, not
> lizard) and am hanging the elevator regularly on 14 picas (if you
> believe that, there is this bridge in Brooklyn I want to talk to
you
> about), I decided what I really needed to do was replace the long
> segment on the mold turning cam so I can run alternate 10 and
> alternate 12 pt. molds (perhaps I should say moulds, as this is a
> Brit machine).
>
> I found a replacement long segment at Don's (of course, he has
> everything for Intertype) and this evening took off the old one (S-
68)
> and installed the new one (S-985). Pretty easy really, much
simplier
> than I thought. Everything seems to work fine, but haven't cast
any
> slugs yet with the new set-up.
>
> I'll let everyone know how I like it.
>
> Long live lead.
>
> Best,
>
> Speed


As an amateur Intertype operator I'm not sure (yes I am sure.  I
don't understand) I understand what you are doing.  Are you changing
a long segment for a shorter one so that the mold will rotate to
casting position sooner?  That doesn't sound possible. ????

Stan

Now we know why you're named "Speed"!  You'll be able to set type
for the LPGS so rapidly now that it will probably go to a weekly
instead of monthly!
Jim





--- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "Speed Gray" <speedgray@a...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Fellow Slug Casters:
>
> On my recent trip to Toronto to visit the "Halls of Intertype
Heaven"
> and spend time with Mr. Black, I latched on to a few really nice
> parts goodies for my Intertype machines.
>
> Since I now have two C-4 machines, I have decided to make my black
> one my versitle, 8-10-12-14 pt machine; and my "new" gray one
> the "shock and awe" high speed composition machine for 10 and 12
pt.
> slugs only. Since I am becoming such a keyboard wizard (no, not
> lizard) and am hanging the elevator regularly on 14 picas (if you
> believe that, there is this bridge in Brooklyn I want to talk to
you
> about), I decided what I really needed to do was replace the long
> segment on the mold turning cam so I can run alternate 10 and
> alternate 12 pt. molds (perhaps I should say moulds, as this is a
> Brit machine).
>
> I found a replacement long segment at Don's (of course, he has
> everything for Intertype) and this evening took off the old one (S-
68)
> and installed the new one (S-985). Pretty easy really, much
simplier
> than I thought. Everything seems to work fine, but haven't cast
any
> slugs yet with the new set-up.
>
> I'll let everyone know how I like it.
>
> Long live lead.
>
> Best,
>
> Speed

Hello Fellow Slug Casters:

On my recent trip to Toronto to visit the "Halls of Intertype Heaven"
and spend time with Mr. Black, I latched on to a few really nice
parts goodies for my Intertype machines.

Since I now have two C-4 machines, I have decided to make my black
one my versitle, 8-10-12-14 pt machine; and my "new" gray one
the "shock and awe" high speed composition machine for 10 and 12 pt.
slugs only. Since I am becoming such a keyboard wizard (no, not
lizard) and am hanging the elevator regularly on 14 picas (if you
believe that, there is this bridge in Brooklyn I want to talk to you
about), I decided what I really needed to do was replace the long
segment on the mold turning cam so I can run alternate 10 and
alternate 12 pt. molds (perhaps I should say moulds, as this is a
Brit machine).

I found a replacement long segment at Don's (of course, he has
everything for Intertype) and this evening took off the old one (S-68)
and installed the new one (S-985). Pretty easy really, much simplier
than I thought. Everything seems to work fine, but haven't cast any
slugs yet with the new set-up.

I'll let everyone know how I like it.

Long live lead.

Best,

Speed

--- Thanks for your informed response Jim. I have 3 main problems I
am dealing with. I will get out my books and learn the correct names
of the parts or problems I am working on. Then I will ask you some
other questions that hopefully will make since to the list.

Thanks,

Dave









In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "jpdaggs" <jpdaggs@f...> wrote:
> Two things to be aware of come to mind. If you cyle the machine
and allow
> the plunger lever to "drop", it will come crashing down on the top
of the
> pot lid casting - that could crack.  When I need to cycle the
machine
> without the plunger pin in place, I place a piece of a cast slug
on the pot
> lid where the plunger will make contact. The soft lead cushions
the blow of
> htat plunger lever - avoiding possible cracks.
> Secondly, if you do not have the pot hot when you cycle the
machine, the
> thermostat bulb is held solid in the pot by the solid metal. If
too much
> cycling takes place, you run the risk of damaging the "Capillary"
tube that
> runs from the bulb in the pot to the control.
>
> Jim Daggs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "klugemeisterman" <abbygail@w...>
> To: <IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 9:22 PM
> Subject: [IntertypeWorld] First new guy question
>
>
> >
> >
> >

Speed, tried to get onto the list before but Yahoo showed nothing for
Intertype in groups.
Yes it's Arthur from Gulgong NSW Australia, I have been working the
C3 at the museum for weeks doing our Show Programme and it's a great
machine. We have a C4 in storage to go on display later and we are
getting a Model 15 Linotype and a Electron to go with our Model 48
English Linotype. We have a Ludlow working and 2 others for spares.
Also a Elrod a future project to get it running.
My own shop at home on the farm (no close neighbours) has a 1929
Ludlow and a C4 Intertype.
Thanks for starting this list Speed as we must be a bit much for
people who are not interested in linecasters.
Arthur in Australia

Two things to be aware of come to mind. If you cyle the machine and allow
the plunger lever to "drop", it will come crashing down on the top of the
pot lid casting - that could crack.  When I need to cycle the machine
without the plunger pin in place, I place a piece of a cast slug on the pot
lid where the plunger will make contact. The soft lead cushions the blow of
htat plunger lever - avoiding possible cracks.
Secondly, if you do not have the pot hot when you cycle the machine, the
thermostat bulb is held solid in the pot by the solid metal. If too much
cycling takes place, you run the risk of damaging the "Capillary" tube that
runs from the bulb in the pot to the control.

Jim Daggs

----- Original Message -----
From: "klugemeisterman" <abbygail@...>
To: <IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 9:22 PM
Subject: [IntertypeWorld] First new guy question


>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> My first question to the group is, if you have the pin pulled from
> the pot plunger, does it harm your Intertype to cycle the machine
> under power?
>
> P.S. I am sure dissapointed that the West Coast Linotype University
> is already cancelled. I only live 40 miles from the non event.
>
> Thanks in advance for any input.
>
> Dave Thomas
> Woodburn, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

----- Original Message -----

From: okieprint

To: IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com

Sent: 1/4/2005 11:04:53 PM

Subject: [IntertypeWorld] Cam and Keyrod problem

Well, guess what!  I discovered the rubber on the rollers had become
compressed so that the "e" cam was apparently just riding on the
edge.  It was not rising enough to push the keyrod up enough to
release a mat.  So I held on to both ends and pulled apart as much
as I could and increased the length by 1/4" or so.  Don't know how
long it will stay that way, but at least it is working now.

Incidentally, while taking the cams out I was surprised to find oil
running down the side of one cam.  When I oiled these I applied a
drop or less with a toothpick and was careful to wipe off all
excess.  Just goes to show how a little oil goes a long way.

Best Regards,
Stan

Well, guess what!  I discovered the rubber on the rollers had become
compressed so that the "e" cam was apparently just riding on the
edge.  It was not rising enough to push the keyrod up enough to
release a mat.  So I held on to both ends and pulled apart as much
as I could and increased the length by 1/4" or so.  Don't know how
long it will stay that way, but at least it is working now.

Incidentally, while taking the cams out I was surprised to find oil
running down the side of one cam.  When I oiled these I applied a
drop or less with a toothpick and was careful to wipe off all
excess.  Just goes to show how a little oil goes a long way.

Best Regards,
Stan

Hi guys,

My first question to the group is, if you have the pin pulled from
the pot plunger, does it harm your Intertype to cycle the machine
under power?

P.S. I am sure dissapointed that the West Coast Linotype University
is already cancelled. I only live 40 miles from the non event.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Dave Thomas
Woodburn, OR

Thought I too would join this list as I have two Intertypes and a
Linotype, even several Ludlow's.

Might come in handy when I fire up my Intertype again, to ask you
guys many questions, in fact the Intertype that I had pulled down
for moving might not be put back together, so I might sell some
parts of it.

Regards,

Milton Watkins.

Ballarat Bookbinding & Specialist Printing
312 Albert Street, Sebastopol,
Victoria, Australia,  3356.
Ph/Fax: +61 3 5336 0057
Mobile: 0438 876 467
Website: www.bookbinding.com.au
Email: ballarat@...

Well, the problem is solved.  I think you are correct in that one of
the extra slots is for the double "e" channel which my machine
doesn't have.  On further examination, I noticed that on one side,
that there was an extra slot on top, so I left one slot empty on
that side.  That leaves two slots empty on the other side, and one
of these is used by the spaceband keyrod.

Anyway, on this basis, installed the keyrods and everything lined
up.  Then ran a test and all keys worked perfectly except the "e"
and "n", where I noticed the keyrods were not rising.  According to
the book this is due to cam problems or roller problems.  Since I
just had the cams out and they look OK, and the rollers appear to be
hard, I suspect I will be looking for two rollers.

Does anybody know where I can get two rubber rollers economically?

Best Regards,
Stan

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Well, the problem is solved.  I think you are correct in that one of
the extra slots is for the double "e" channel which my machine
doesn't have.  On further examination, I noticed that on one side,
that there was an extra slot on top, so I left one slot empty on
that side.  That leaves two slots empty on the other side, and one
of these is used by the spaceband keyrod.

Anyway, on this basis, installed the keyrods and everything lined
up.  Then ran a test and all keys worked perfectly except the "e"
and "n", where I noticed the keyrods were not rising.  According to
the book this is due to cam problems or roller problems.  Since I
just had the cams out and they look OK, and the rollers appear to be
hard, I suspect I will be looking for two rollers.

Does anybody know where I can get two rubber rollers economically?

Best Regards,
Stan

Speed,
A few years ago my C-4 with the v-belt drive developed an odd noise, and I
dismantled the drive to check all the bushings, etc. Discovered that the pin
which holds the lower drive pulley in place was worn and the loose fit of
that pulley was the culprit.  Just something to keep in mind while checking
over your unit.
Jim Daggs




----- Original Message -----
From: "Speed Gray" <speedgray@...>
To: <IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 1:01 PM
Subject: [IntertypeWorld] Intertype Chronicles #2 - Intermediate Shaft


>
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> I had a strange, incorrect clicking noise coming from the motor drive
> area of my C-4 (38127)which I am currently in the process of cleaning
> up and getting running again after sitting 15 or so years by the
> original owner. I acquired this machine in mid-November from Bob Lesh
> in Canton, Ohio.
>
> What I thought, surely, were bad bushings on the intermediate pulley
> shaft (S-1009) caused to set aside a few hours today to "get into
> it." I removed the step, moved all the "stuff" away from the machine
> to permit easy access, put on my dirtiest, grubbiest jeans (not
> bibbies, Dave), and went to it like the Intertype fanatic I admit to
> being (confession is good for the soul).
>
> I started the machine under power to see if I could determin where
> the noise was originating. At first analysis it didn't "seem" like it
> was coming from the intermediate shaft. I checked the "play" in the
> shaft/bushing fit by lifting with a long toad stabber, and determined
> the bushings, and shaft, were in great shape! How wonderful!
>
> Then I noticed a bright, shiney head on one of the screws holding the
> driving shaft friction clutch shield (S-167) to the clutch assembly
> (S-31). This was not the original screw, as it had a large head on
> it, probably to prevent it from poking through the shield when
> tightened down. Each time one of the spokes on the driving shaft
> pulley (S-998) came around, it hit the head of the screw and made the
> clicking noise. I replaced the screw with a flat head one; voila, no
> noise!
>
> Don't come too near me today, I'm pretty cocky!
>
> As long I was into the bowels of the beast, I decided to do a bit of
> clean-up work down under (now I know what a proctologist feels like).
> I sprayed everything down low with engine degreaser and let it sit
> for an hour, then got under there and started scrubbing and cleaning.
>
> In case you have never taken a good look in theis area of your
> machine, there is a small "shelf" formed by the top of the pedistal
> base. It collects all kinds of neat treasures. Mats, grease,
> spacebands, little children, dirt and crud. I cleaned all this out. I
> also removed what must have been 25 years of side knife shavings,
> about five pounds worth, built up in the corner of the "shelf."
>
> So, this old girl continues to improve with each passing day.
> Tomorrow's project is to test the alignment of the rear mat toes with
> the mold just prior to casting, as I am getting some damage here, and
> it's not because of a tight line.
>
> Long live Intertype!
>
> Speed
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stan's machine is a G-4, 72/90 mixer. Those keyrods come out of the
back of the machine in their rack, similar to the 90-channel keyrods
in the non-mixer models. Stan's situation poses a real head-
scratcher. I would have to pull the keyrods out of one of our 72-90
mixers in order to walk him through the alignment of those rods
again - unless someone has a better approach.

Jim Daggs









--- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "Speed Gray" <speedgray@a...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Stan:
>
> I am not at all familiar with the Intertype Mixers. But, what I
think
> you are describing with the "extra" keyrods is similar to the
> situation on the C-4s. There is an additional channel for "e"
mats.
> However, unless your machine is fitted with the attachment that
> alternates usage between the two "e" channels, the "extra" channel
is
> not used and remains empty. It would require an extra key rod for
> each magazine; there by having two, plus the spaceband keyrod, on
a
> double distributor mixer machine.
>
> Perhaps one of the "mixer guys" here on the list can offer further
> comment on your question.
>
> Speed
>
>
> --- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "okieprint"
<okieprint@y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I've recently been cleaning the keyboard cams, kebars, and
> keyrods.
> > It's been a week or more since I took the keyrods out, and I had
> > forgotten how it came out. I couldn't find any screws that would
> > hold it in, and was worried I might have lost them.  So I got
the
> > book out and reviewed the information.  Unfortunately, I had
alread
> > reinstalled the back cams, and I now find I must remove them to
> > install the keyrods. Apparently, the cam yolk frame holds the
> > keyrods in place.  That almost drives a person to cussin.
> >
> > But there is a more serious question.  In moving the keyrod
frame
> > around, the rods can be moved so that they come out of the
bottom
> > slots.  It is not difficult to get them back in, but I find
there
> > are three extra slots in addition to the 90 that are needed.
One
> of
> > these is for the space band rod, but what about the other two.
> > Which side should they be on?  If not correct, the rods may not
> line
> > up with the keybars or escapement rods.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Stan

Hello Stan:

I am not at all familiar with the Intertype Mixers. But, what I think
you are describing with the "extra" keyrods is similar to the
situation on the C-4s. There is an additional channel for "e" mats.
However, unless your machine is fitted with the attachment that
alternates usage between the two "e" channels, the "extra" channel is
not used and remains empty. It would require an extra key rod for
each magazine; there by having two, plus the spaceband keyrod, on a
double distributor mixer machine.

Perhaps one of the "mixer guys" here on the list can offer further
comment on your question.

Speed


--- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "okieprint" <okieprint@y...>
wrote:
>
> I've recently been cleaning the keyboard cams, kebars, and
keyrods.
> It's been a week or more since I took the keyrods out, and I had
> forgotten how it came out. I couldn't find any screws that would
> hold it in, and was worried I might have lost them.  So I got the
> book out and reviewed the information.  Unfortunately, I had alread
> reinstalled the back cams, and I now find I must remove them to
> install the keyrods. Apparently, the cam yolk frame holds the
> keyrods in place.  That almost drives a person to cussin.
>
> But there is a more serious question.  In moving the keyrod frame
> around, the rods can be moved so that they come out of the bottom
> slots.  It is not difficult to get them back in, but I find there
> are three extra slots in addition to the 90 that are needed.  One
of
> these is for the space band rod, but what about the other two.
> Which side should they be on?  If not correct, the rods may not
line
> up with the keybars or escapement rods.
>
> Best Regards,
> Stan

Hello Listers:

I had a strange, incorrect clicking noise coming from the motor drive
area of my C-4 (38127)which I am currently in the process of cleaning
up and getting running again after sitting 15 or so years by the
original owner. I acquired this machine in mid-November from Bob Lesh
in Canton, Ohio.

What I thought, surely, were bad bushings on the intermediate pulley
shaft (S-1009) caused to set aside a few hours today to "get into
it." I removed the step, moved all the "stuff" away from the machine
to permit easy access, put on my dirtiest, grubbiest jeans (not
bibbies, Dave), and went to it like the Intertype fanatic I admit to
being (confession is good for the soul).

I started the machine under power to see if I could determin where
the noise was originating. At first analysis it didn't "seem" like it
was coming from the intermediate shaft. I checked the "play" in the
shaft/bushing fit by lifting with a long toad stabber, and determined
the bushings, and shaft, were in great shape! How wonderful!

Then I noticed a bright, shiney head on one of the screws holding the
driving shaft friction clutch shield (S-167) to the clutch assembly
(S-31). This was not the original screw, as it had a large head on
it, probably to prevent it from poking through the shield when
tightened down. Each time one of the spokes on the driving shaft
pulley (S-998) came around, it hit the head of the screw and made the
clicking noise. I replaced the screw with a flat head one; voila, no
noise!

Don't come too near me today, I'm pretty cocky!

As long I was into the bowels of the beast, I decided to do a bit of
clean-up work down under (now I know what a proctologist feels like).
I sprayed everything down low with engine degreaser and let it sit
for an hour, then got under there and started scrubbing and cleaning.

In case you have never taken a good look in theis area of your
machine, there is a small "shelf" formed by the top of the pedistal
base. It collects all kinds of neat treasures. Mats, grease,
spacebands, little children, dirt and crud. I cleaned all this out. I
also removed what must have been 25 years of side knife shavings,
about five pounds worth, built up in the corner of the "shelf."

So, this old girl continues to improve with each passing day.
Tomorrow's project is to test the alignment of the rear mat toes with
the mold just prior to casting, as I am getting some damage here, and
it's not because of a tight line.

Long live Intertype!

Speed

Apologies in advance to any Intertype purists, but Intertypes and
Linotypes ARE similar.

I would like to let you know of an opportunity to learn about
Linotypes coming up in June 2005 in Northwest Oregon. I will be
hosting a free week long series of classes on Linotype operation and
maintenance presented by Larry Raid from Denmark, Iowa.

A couple of years ago I attended Larry's "Linotype University I" in
Denmark, Iowa. It was pretty useful. I learned quite a bit from Larry
and the other instructors as well as from 9 other students with very
disparate backgrounds, but a common interest in linecasting and
printing. Last year, Larry again offered "Linotype University II" in
Iowa and he is preparing to offer "Linotype University III" this fall.
See: http://linotypeuniversity.com/

The classes are free but when you consider flying to Iowa, renting a
car for a week, hotel and food, it can become prohibitive. I e-mailed
Larry a couple of months ago and made the offer that if he ever wanted
to hold his "University" on the west coast, I would host it and do the
leg work.
He agreed and we are scheduled for June 12-17, 2005 in Yamhill,
Oregon.
See: http://www.linotype.org/LinotypeUniversityWEST/

If you know of anyone who would like to take advantage of this
training,  please pass the information along or send me their contact
information.

Thanks,
Bill Spurling
Yamhill, Oregon

wjs@...
503.662.3681

Hello Great One:

 

Not only are you welcome, Mr. Seat, you are greeted with open arms and royal respect! You are the "Obeywon Kenobbie" of Intertypes. You are the Master, we but grasshoppers.

 

In fact, I predict you will spend a fair amount of time on this list answering all our questions. But, then again, fame ain't cheap!

 

Best,

 

Speed

--- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "demouseman"
<demouseman@y...> wrote:
>
> Hello Speed,
>
> I don't have a running Interype, but do Own one.  Hope this will
get
> me into your group.
>
> I wish you and All and Happy Holiday Season,
>
> Dave Seat
> Hot Metal Services
> 1-615-754-5500

Of course you're in the group, Dave!!  You're the Intertype Doctor!!
In fact, you should have an Honorary Membership and all benefits!!
Welcome and best of the new year to you!
Jim Daggs

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hello Fellow Listers:

I spent a most enjoyable morning today rebuilding the assembler on
my "new" C-4 (38127) which I recently acquired. Although the machine
is casting nice slugs, there are a number of repairs which are needed
before it's up to proper standards.

The assembler was whining like first gear on my old '58 Morris Minor.
In my "stock" of parts, collected and horded like fine jewels over
the past couple of years, I had most everything I needed. My last
trip to heaven (Don Black Linecasting in Toronto) I globbed on to a
brand new assembler casting with the bushings already pressed in.

So this morning at 6:00, after the coffee had brewed and Sirius Radio
was tuned to the 50's oldies stream, I removed the assembler from the
machine, and then used my spares to assemble a replacement. I had
already soaked the casting with the bushings in 30w oil for several
days so they could "suck up the juice" and remain lubricated.

Everything went together without a hitch. I installed the "new"
assembler, and it runs quietly and smoothly. Now, I realize that all
of this didn't require any rocket science. BUT . . . it certainly is
nice to spend some time on these old girls and make them better, when
most people have long ago given up on them and sent them to scrap.

Next project . . . the V-belt drive is noisy. I have new busings for
the intermediate motor drive shaft; they are probably worn and
sloppy. After all, do YOU oil the cups frequently? Goes the old
saw, "I'll do it next time . . . they're too hard to reach! Plus,
they are probably okay, anyhow. I think Joe oiled them in 1979."

Long live Intertypes!


Speed

--- In IntertypeWorld@yahoogroups.com, "demouseman"
<demouseman@y...> wrote:
>
> Hello Speed,
>
> I don't have a running Interype, but do Own one.  Hope this will
get
> me into your group.
>
> I wish you and All and Happy Holiday Season,
>
> Dave Seat
> Hot Metal Services
> 1-615-754-5500

Of course you're in the group, Dave!!  You're the Intertype Doctor!!
In fact, you should have an Honorary Membership and all benefits!!
Welcome and best of the new year to you!
Jim Daggs

Hello Speed,

I don't have a running Interype, but do Own one.  Hope this will get
me into your group.

I wish you and All and Happy Holiday Season,

Dave Seat
Hot Metal Services
1-615-754-5500

I've recently been cleaning the keyboard cams, kebars, and keyrods.
It's been a week or more since I took the keyrods out, and I had
forgotten how it came out. I couldn't find any screws that would
hold it in, and was worried I might have lost them.  So I got the
book out and reviewed the information.  Unfortunately, I had alread
reinstalled the back cams, and I now find I must remove them to
install the keyrods. Apparently, the cam yolk frame holds the
keyrods in place.  That almost drives a person to cussin.

But there is a more serious question.  In moving the keyrod frame
around, the rods can be moved so that they come out of the bottom
slots.  It is not difficult to get them back in, but I find there
are three extra slots in addition to the 90 that are needed.  One of
these is for the space band rod, but what about the other two.
Which side should they be on?  If not correct, the rods may not line
up with the keybars or escapement rods.

Best Regards,
Stan

A big thanks to Speed Gray for putting this together. I think I know
now where he gets his name . . . he gets things done quickly!!
Today (Jan 1) I plan to do some work on one of my Intertypes - a C-
4. I have a couple of fonts of mats to finish polishing and then run
in and proof. As we speak the machine is hot at the shop and ready
to go.
The list of Intertypes on line and running in our shop are:
C4
G2
G44 - 30 pica
G44 42 pica
H44
All of them are in use. One of my winter projects is to replace the
noisy gear-motor drive on the 42-pica machine with the quiet v-belt
drive.
We still do commercial letterpress printing, and I do my share of
hobby printing and print for the APA. This year - 2005 - will be my
35th year as a printer and linecaster operator.
Although I have operated many fine Linotypes over the years, I
discovered the Intertype to be the most robust, and easiest to
repair and maintain.
Thanks again, Speed!!
Jim Daggs
Ackley Publishing Co.
Ackley, Iowa

Hi folks,

I am glad this list has been created. I have one Intertype ready to
use but will have to ask a lot of questions to get it going. I look
forward to learning from you all and hopefully will be able to
contribute back to the group in the future.

Thanks,

Dave Thomas
Woodburn,OR

Hey Speed may have started the group, but I get the first post!

We have 3 intertypes we use daily (along with 2 ludlows) in our
stationery production.  Of course, some days are busier than others,
and acutally some of the year, we don't use the machines daily, but
close enough...  I have been with the family business for 25 years
now, and do all the service and maintenace work on the intertypes
(and everything else in the plant too).  Hopefully I can be of help
to others and if I have a question, I'm sure someone else in this
grout (yet to sign up) will have the answer!

Happy New Year!

Lance Williams
Williams Stationery Co., Inc.
67 Railroad Street
Camden, NY 13316
(800) 425-2338
www.kadetstationery.com