So I have been on a few rides now. I am still very happy with the purchase. I am
still trying to get used to the handling. I have never had 700 wheels before.

Today I rode through a nice park with packed trails and the bike was perfect. I
now have 15 miles on it and have only made a few minor adjustments. My plan is
to put 20 miles a week on it for fitness purposes.

I love the hub and am glad I waited to get the bike.

Anyone have any suggestions for fenders?

Thanks, Tom

Tom;

Let us know how well the wheels hold up as far as staying true.

As for fenders do you want metal or plastic ones?  Both Velo Orange and
Wallingford Bicycle Parts have good selections of metal ones while any good LBS
should have the plastic ones.

http://www.velo-orange.com/fenders.html

http://www.wallbike.com/fenders.html

In addition to both metal and plastic fenders Peter White Cycles has a good
article about them.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fenders.asp

What an LBS carries is probably a lot less expensive but may not last as well.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "A & T" <atgep@...> wrote:
>
> So I have been on a few rides now. I am still very happy with the purchase. I
am still trying to get used to the handling. I have never had 700 wheels before.
>
> Today I rode through a nice park with packed trails and the bike was perfect.
I now have 15 miles on it and have only made a few minor adjustments. My plan is
to put 20 miles a week on it for fitness purposes.
>
> I love the hub and am glad I waited to get the bike.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions for fenders?
>
> Thanks, Tom
>

> Anyone have any suggestions for fenders?

My favorite fenders are Planet Bike Cascadia with the super long lower flaps. 
Comes in several widths.  Keeps my feets dry when it's really pouring!

http://ecom1.planetbike.com/fenders.html

So a few more miles today a few more observations. Riding in the hood, park
trails, and the golfcart paths at the local course when they are closed, is this
bike's forte.
  The tires do not like softer sand but the bike slows so fast, you know right
away.
  The chain has loosened up a bit with about 25 miles logged. The shifter,
brakes, and wheels remain adjustment free. I like the saddle and geometry. I am
not too thrilled with the handlebars and wish they had a little more bend
towards the back as the straighter bars pinch my wrist.
  I am not too convinced about the pedals. They still seem to have friction in
the bearings which may be a result of the dynamo installed inside them. If they
dont break in, I will look to replace them. The wheel and crank bearings have
started to break in and friction seems to be low. The hub gets better every time
I ride it.

I am overall very happy and feel it is exactly what i wanted for half what I was
expecting to pay.

Bars are a very personal and individual choice, as are pedals.  Easy enough to
change either one to something more to your liking.

Does the frame have enough clearance to allow larger tires if you want to
increase the size, and still leave room for fenders?  Even MTBs show a lot more
rolling resistance in soft ground so I am not surprised at your noting it with
your bike.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "A & T" <atgep@...> wrote:
>
> So a few more miles today a few more observations. Riding in the hood, park
trails, and the golfcart paths at the local course when they are closed, is this
bike's forte.
>  The tires do not like softer sand but the bike slows so fast, you know right
away.
>  The chain has loosened up a bit with about 25 miles logged. The shifter,
brakes, and wheels remain adjustment free. I like the saddle and geometry. I am
not too thrilled with the handlebars and wish they had a little more bend
towards the back as the straighter bars pinch my wrist.
>  I am not too convinced about the pedals. They still seem to have friction in
the bearings which may be a result of the dynamo installed inside them. If they
dont break in, I will look to replace them. The wheel and crank bearings have
started to break in and friction seems to be low. The hub gets better every time
I ride it.
>
> I am overall very happy and feel it is exactly what i wanted for half what I
was expecting to pay.
>

The frame looks to be a fairly generic one that has plenty of room for wider
tires. I am not sure how much wider the rims would support though. All trade
offs I know.

I have not ridden much in over 20 yrs and am really enjoying getting back on the
bike.

Tom

Tom;

If you have a caliper or other means measure the external width of a rim.  The
inside width will normally be 5 to 6mm less.  Or remove a tire and measure the
inside width directly.

Here is a chart of rim width versus recommended tire widths from Sheldon brown. 
Scroll down the article to see the chart.  It follows ISO recommendations. 
Schwalbe's web site has a similar one.  Generally tire width should be in the
range of 1.4x to 2.0x rim inside width per ISO.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

Note that many people fit wider than recommended tires for a given rim width w/o
problems.  In fact my Swobo came factory fitted with tires that were slightly
wider than recommended for the rims.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "A & T" <atgep@...> wrote:
>
> The frame looks to be a fairly generic one that has plenty of room for wider
tires. I am not sure how much wider the rims would support though. All trade
offs I know.
>
> I have not ridden much in over 20 yrs and am really enjoying getting back on
the bike.
>
> Tom
>

> Here is a chart of rim width versus recommended tire widths from Sheldon
brown.

I found the rim on the Alex website.  It's 17mm inside, 22.8mm outside.  The
Sheldon website is nice, I do violate it all the time, esp with my MTB.  IMHO,
it's a little too conservative on how wide a tire you can run on a given rim.

IIRC a lot of the older Trek MTBs from the 93-94 era violated it by fitting far
wider tires than ISO recommended for their rim widths.  Apparently a matter of
saving weight on some of their higher end MTBs.

Per Sheldon and some other authorities I have read going too far does not
provide proper tire side support so the tire can feel squirrely.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "palatine_ej" <danstrom@...> wrote:
>
> > Here is a chart of rim width versus recommended tire widths from Sheldon
brown.
>
> I found the rim on the Alex website.  It's 17mm inside, 22.8mm outside.  The
Sheldon website is nice, I do violate it all the time, esp with my MTB.  IMHO,
it's a little too conservative on how wide a tire you can run on a given rim.
>

Your measurements are spot-on. I dug the caliper out today and the rim Outside
width measures 23mm. The Tire measures 37mm which is right on the high side for
sheldons recommendations. There is room for a 46mm tire and there is 20mm of
space above the tire. I plan on adding fenders soon and will just rack up miles
for the time being.

So one project I'm seriously contemplating is to install an IGH on a bikesdirect
mercier kilo tt.

Just wondering -- what's the best supplier source for shimano nexus 8 hub?

Also, shifters. I've seen the J-tec bar-end shifter, but how about the others
out there?

Vincent;

I bought my Alfine from Harris cyclery.  May not be the cheapest but they
include all of the necessary parts with theirs while a lot of the lowball prices
you see for the Alfine are for the hub only.  Those do not include anti rotation
washers, axle nuts or the casette joint.

So far as I know most Nexus packages are complete but like any Internet purchase
verify that you are getting everything prior to the purchase.

I am using the Jtek shifter.  The only other drop bar shifter for the
Nexus8/Alfine I am aware of is the Taiwanese made brifter set being imported by
Dynamic Bicycles.  I have yet to see one so have no opinions on it.

A work around for drop bars is the Hubbub adapter which allows mounting a twist
grip shifter on the end of a road bar.  I am using that for a Sram P5 hub. 
After looking at photos I machined my own.

The Mercier Kilo TT has 120mm dropouts so you will need to spread them or find a
source for the parts to narrow the hub.  It can supposedly be done with the
Nexus8 but apparently not with the Alfine.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "awesome_vincent" <awesome_vincent@...>
wrote:
>
> So one project I'm seriously contemplating is to install an IGH on a
bikesdirect mercier kilo tt.
>
> Just wondering -- what's the best supplier source for shimano nexus 8 hub?
>
> Also, shifters. I've seen the J-tec bar-end shifter, but how about the others
out there?
>

--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "dcoffey01" <dcoffey01@...> wrote:
>
> I do not intend to zip-tie the shifter cable if at all possible. The shifter
will be going on my flat handlebars as usual, housing will run to the right-hand
downtube shifter boss where I have a barrel adjuster. I will be running the
cable bare down under the bottom bracket and along the right chain-stay to the
cable stop there but I can't visualise what happens next. I assume you go back
to cable housing till you reach the hub itself.
>
> Can someone post a link to a pic of how you handle the last few inches of
cable on a nexus/alfine on the Cross-Check frame please.

The new rear wheel has just arrived with an Alfine SG-S501 and after taking the
opportunity to give the Cross-Check a good clean, I have fitted it with no
issues. For anyone else thinking about this hub on this frame, you need the
silver/white pair of anti-rotation washers that are included in the standard
Alfine fitting kit.

Now, as you may remember, I was concerned about the last little bit of cable
housing from the chain-stay cable-stop to the hub. Sure enough, there is
precious little room for housing there as the following photo will show...

http://www.dcoffey.co.uk/images/AlfineCable.jpg (40Kb 750x500px)

The actual distance between the two stops is only 70mm horizontally and about
30mm vertically as well as 15mm in depth. It certainly looks like I will be
using cable-ties all the way. Once I have got it cabled, I will show you what it
looked like.

Lots of new members in the last week or so.  Welcome to all of you.  Please feel
free to take part in group discussions.  New members are encouraged to post
regarding themselves and their bikes as well as post any questions you may have.

Check out the Photos, Files and Links areas as well as contribute to them.  Also
feel free to use the Database to list bikes that you have so that the info is
available if stolen or so other members can post questions if they see that you
have a bike of interest to them.

Rich Wood

Jonathan;

I have read about it too but per both data in Frank Berto's book "Upgrading Your
Bike", and measurements of indexed deraillieur cable travel per click available
in the Files area, derailleur indexed shifters are not linear.  They pull
considerably more cable per click at the ends of the cable travel than in the
middle area.

All IGHs I am aware of, except some 3 speeds, need linear pull per click.  Even
if you can get it to work this means that some shifts on the IGH are not going
to be centered at the correct point if using a derailleur indexed shifter.  Per
my understanding this risks damage to the hub on many IGH hubs.

The correct design for a travel agent to do so would require a eccenric pulley,
properly indexed, to linearize the shifters non linear cable pull.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Gutoff <gutoff@...> wrote:
>
> I've read about people using a Travel Agent, by Problem Solvers, to get
various rear derailleur shifters to work with internally geared hubs, but I'm
sure of exactly how it's done.
>
> Jonathan
>
> --- On Wed, 8/5/09, Jack Vincent <2wheelednut@...> wrote:
>
> From: Jack Vincent <2wheelednut@...>
> Subject: Re: [Geared_hub_bikes] Re: Sources for hubs, and getting the shifters
onto drop bars? [1 Attachment]
> To: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 11:47 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>         [Attachment(s) from Jack Vincent included below]
>
>
>
>
>             The road shift lever that Dynamic is using is called the Versa
Road Shifter.  I have been able to test it and it does work but the throw to
upshift is very long.  Not easy for those with smaller hands.  The downshift is
a nice small button just behind it that works well. Here is a pic.
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Rich Wood <astronut1001@ yahoo.com>
> To: Geared_hub_bikes@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2009 8:01:09 PM
> Subject: [Geared_hub_ bikes] Re: Sources for hubs, and getting the shifters
onto drop bars?
>
>  
>
> Vincent;
>
> I bought my Alfine from Harris cyclery. May not be the cheapest but they
include all of the necessary parts with theirs while a lot of the lowball prices
you see for the Alfine are for the hub only. Those do not include anti rotation
washers, axle nuts or the casette joint.
>
> So far as I know most Nexus packages are complete but like any Internet
purchase verify that you are getting everything prior to the purchase.
>
> I am using the Jtek shifter. The only other drop bar shifter for the
Nexus8/Alfine I am aware of is the Taiwanese made brifter set being imported by
Dynamic Bicycles. I have yet to see one so have no opinions on it.
>
> A work around for drop bars is the Hubbub adapter which allows mounting a
twist grip shifter on the end of a road bar. I am using that for a Sram P5 hub.
After looking at photos I machined my own.
>
> The Mercier Kilo TT has 120mm dropouts so you will need to spread them or find
a source
>  for the parts to narrow the hub. It can supposedly be done with the Nexus8
but apparently not with the Alfine.
>
> Rich Wood
>
> --- In Geared_hub_bikes@ yahoogroups. com, "awesome_vincent" <awesome_vincent@
...> wrote:
> >
> > So one project I'm seriously contemplating is to install an IGH on a
bikesdirect mercier kilo tt.
> >
> > Just wondering -- what's the best supplier source for shimano nexus 8 hub?
> >
> > Also, shifters. I've seen the J-tec bar-end shifter, but how about the
others out there?
> >
>

Here is the link to the cable pull article:

http://tinyurl.com/nf9zsg

If it does not work then go to the Files area and look at the file "Gear Hub
Cable Pull Info"

Info on other gear hubs would be welcome to add to this.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood" <astronut1001@...> wrote:
>
> Jonathan;
>
> I have read about it too but per both data in Frank Berto's book "Upgrading
Your Bike", and measurements of indexed deraillieur cable travel per click
available in the Files area, derailleur indexed shifters are not linear.  They
pull considerably more cable per click at the ends of the cable travel than in
the middle area.
>
> All IGHs I am aware of, except some 3 speeds, need linear pull per click. 
Even if you can get it to work this means that some shifts on the IGH are not
going to be centered at the correct point if using a derailleur indexed shifter.
Per my understanding this risks damage to the hub on many IGH hubs.
>
> The correct design for a travel agent to do so would require a eccenric
pulley, properly indexed, to linearize the shifters non linear cable pull.
>
> Rich Wood
>
>
> --- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Gutoff <gutoff@> wrote:
> >
> > I've read about people using a Travel Agent, by Problem Solvers, to get
various rear derailleur shifters to work with internally geared hubs, but I'm
sure of exactly how it's done.
> >
> > Jonathan
> >
> > --- On Wed, 8/5/09, Jack Vincent <2wheelednut@> wrote:
> >
> > From: Jack Vincent <2wheelednut@>
> > Subject: Re: [Geared_hub_bikes] Re: Sources for hubs, and getting the
shifters onto drop bars? [1 Attachment]
> > To: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 11:47 AM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >         [Attachment(s) from Jack Vincent included below]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >             The road shift lever that Dynamic is using is called the Versa
Road Shifter.  I have been able to test it and it does work but the throw to
upshift is very long.  Not easy for those with smaller hands.  The downshift is
a nice small button just behind it that works well. Here is a pic.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Rich Wood <astronut1001@ yahoo.com>
> > To: Geared_hub_bikes@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2009 8:01:09 PM
> > Subject: [Geared_hub_ bikes] Re: Sources for hubs, and getting the shifters
onto drop bars?
> >
> >  
> >
> > Vincent;
> >
> > I bought my Alfine from Harris cyclery. May not be the cheapest but they
include all of the necessary parts with theirs while a lot of the lowball prices
you see for the Alfine are for the hub only. Those do not include anti rotation
washers, axle nuts or the casette joint.
> >
> > So far as I know most Nexus packages are complete but like any Internet
purchase verify that you are getting everything prior to the purchase.
> >
> > I am using the Jtek shifter. The only other drop bar shifter for the
Nexus8/Alfine I am aware of is the Taiwanese made brifter set being imported by
Dynamic Bicycles. I have yet to see one so have no opinions on it.
> >
> > A work around for drop bars is the Hubbub adapter which allows mounting a
twist grip shifter on the end of a road bar. I am using that for a Sram P5 hub.
After looking at photos I machined my own.
> >
> > The Mercier Kilo TT has 120mm dropouts so you will need to spread them or
find a source
> >  for the parts to narrow the hub. It can supposedly be done with the Nexus8
but apparently not with the Alfine.
> >
> > Rich Wood
> >
> > --- In Geared_hub_bikes@ yahoogroups. com, "awesome_vincent"
<awesome_vincent@ ...> wrote:
> > >
> > > So one project I'm seriously contemplating is to install an IGH on a
bikesdirect mercier kilo tt.
> > >
> > > Just wondering -- what's the best supplier source for shimano nexus 8 hub?
> > >
> > > Also, shifters. I've seen the J-tec bar-end shifter, but how about the
others out there?
> > >
> >
>

I will be addiing additional information on indexed derailleur cable pulls for
wide 6 speed and narrow 7 speed freewheels/casettes to the article on IGH cable
pulls in the Files area.

I did some measurements last night from the graphical data in Frank Berto's book
"Upgrading Your Bike" from 1988.  Data includes indexed derailleur systems from
Shimano, Suntour and Campy.

All show the same basic pattern of non linear shifting cable pull with lots of
cable pulled for the end shifts and less pulled for the shifts in the center of
the sprocket cluster.  It seems to be the nature of indexed shifting with
current design slant parallelogram derailleurs, and even the old C Record
derailleur w/o the slant parallelogram.

Cable travel for full travel varied from .48" (Campy) to .71" (Shimano for 7
speed).  This is much less cable pull than for the IGHs I have data on.  Combine
that with the non linearity of the cable pull on the derailleur indexed shifters
and it appears that any attempt to use a derailleur brifter with travel agent
for shifting an IGH risks inaccurate shifts and possible damage to the hub due
to not properly centered shift points.

Rich Wood

Additional info added.  No guarantees of accuracy as the data was derived from
measuring a published graph of information.  Certainly in the correct ballpark
however and it clearly illustrates the non linearity of indexed derailleur cable
pulls and the difficulty of using a rear derailleur indexed shifter for
operating a geared hub.

Per a entry I saw on Bike Forums the pull of the SRAM brifters may be much more
linear and with longer cable pulls so they might be a better choice to try for
the experimenter.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood" <astronut1001@...> wrote:
>
> I will be addiing additional information on indexed derailleur cable pulls for
wide 6 speed and narrow 7 speed freewheels/casettes to the article on IGH cable
pulls in the Files area.
>
> I did some measurements last night from the graphical data in Frank Berto's
book "Upgrading Your Bike" from 1988.  Data includes indexed derailleur systems
from Shimano, Suntour and Campy.
>
> All show the same basic pattern of non linear shifting cable pull with lots of
cable pulled for the end shifts and less pulled for the shifts in the center of
the sprocket cluster.  It seems to be the nature of indexed shifting with
current design slant parallelogram derailleurs, and even the old C Record
derailleur w/o the slant parallelogram.
>
> Cable travel for full travel varied from .48" (Campy) to .71" (Shimano for 7
speed).  This is much less cable pull than for the IGHs I have data on.  Combine
that with the non linearity of the cable pull on the derailleur indexed shifters
and it appears that any attempt to use a derailleur brifter with travel agent
for shifting an IGH risks inaccurate shifts and possible damage to the hub due
to not properly centered shift points.
>
> Rich Wood
>

Joe;

Same oil for both.  20 or 30 weight oil should work fine.  Also some report good
results using synthetic automatic transmission fluid.

First make sure that the shifting cables are not too stiff.  Very good chance of
cable corrosion inside the outer housing if not used in years.  Replacing
shifting cables or detaching the cables and checking for free movement of the
cable is suggested.  If movement is stiff wick some oil into the cable housing
and work the cable until it slides freely inside the housing or replace the
shifter cables.

If not the cable then I have heard of flushing several times with solvent such
as Kerosene while running the hub under no load and then lubing with oil to
loosen up a gear hub.  A bit messy.

Also you should probably regrease the hub wheel bearings.

Rich Wood

--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@...> wrote:
>
> I have aquired two 3 speed bikes that have been stored for the last 25 years.
One has a Shimano hub and the other is a Sturmey Archer. They both shift hard,
so I am suspecting that the need oil. Do I have to use specific oil for each hub
or can I buy one brand of oil to use in both? What brand of oil is recommended?
Do I need to have the hud serviced and cleaned?
>
> What should I do?
>
> Thanks
> Joe
> Wichita
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Rich Wood

To: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 4:36 PM

Subject: [Geared_hub_bikes] Re: Hub Oil?

 

Joe;

Same oil for both. 20 or 30 weight oil should work fine. Also some report good results using synthetic automatic transmission fluid.

First make sure that the shifting cables are not too stiff. Very good chance of cable corrosion inside the outer housing if not used in years. Replacing shifting cables or detaching the cables and checking for free movement of the cable is suggested. If movement is stiff wick some oil into the cable housing and work the cable until it slides freely inside the housing or replace the shifter cables.

If not the cable then I have heard of flushing several times with solvent such as Kerosene while running the hub under no load and then lubing with oil to loosen up a gear hub. A bit messy.

Also you should probably regrease the hub wheel bearings.

Rich Wood

--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@...> wrote:
>
> I have aquired two 3 speed bikes that have been stored for the last 25 years. One has a Shimano hub and the other is a Sturmey Archer. They both shift hard, so I am suspecting that the need oil. Do I have to use specific oil for each hub or can I buy one brand of oil to use in both? What brand of oil is recommended? Do I need to have the hud serviced and cleaned?
>
> What should I do?
>
> Thanks
> Joe
> Wichita
>

--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@...> wrote:
>
> The cables are fine there isn't a bit of rust on either bike. However I will
give em a few drops for good measure. The Schwinn with the Sturmey Archer was
the worst. I could not get it to shift at all, until I hit the brakes a couple
of times and then things began to move. My guess is the oil had thickened over
the 25 years. I will add a few drops of Kerosene to loosen things up, then add
some oil.
>
> Joe

I was thinking, Joe - if they have been lying idle for that long, it might be
beneficial to actually get the hubs properly cleaned to get rid of dried oil
residues completely.

If you are happy with tools, http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/ has tips on how
to completely disassemble hubs such as yours. You may also find that there are
enthusiasts in your local area who would do the work for some beer money.
Otherwise there may be places you could send the rear wheel off to for a good
stripping, clean and relube.

Joe;

I was thinking more Kerosene, an ounce or so, and then let it drain out through
the oiling hole after operating the hub under no load.  Repeat until it drains
out clean.  Then a big dose of oil to guarantee all parts are relubed, rotate
the hub under no load, and drain out the excess.  Why I said the job could be
messy.

On bikes that old you should also probably clean and regrease the wheel
bearings, bottom brackets and headset bearings.  Also almost certainly replace
the brake pads as they harden with age.  The pads item does not apply if the
bikes are coaster brake only though if the coaster brakes are grabby or squeaky
they may need to be cleaned and greased too.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@...> wrote:
>
> The cables are fine there isn't a bit of rust on either bike. However I will
give em a few drops for good measure. The Schwinn with the Sturmey Archer was
the worst. I could not get it to shift at all, until I hit the brakes a couple
of times and then things began to move. My guess is the oil had thickened over
the 25 years. I will add a few drops of Kerosene to loosen things up, then add
some oil.
>
> Joe
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Rich Wood
>   To: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 4:36 PM
>   Subject: [Geared_hub_bikes] Re: Hub Oil?
>
>
>     Joe;
>
>   Same oil for both. 20 or 30 weight oil should work fine. Also some report
good results using synthetic automatic transmission fluid.
>
>   First make sure that the shifting cables are not too stiff. Very good chance
of cable corrosion inside the outer housing if not used in years. Replacing
shifting cables or detaching the cables and checking for free movement of the
cable is suggested. If movement is stiff wick some oil into the cable housing
and work the cable until it slides freely inside the housing or replace the
shifter cables.
>
>   If not the cable then I have heard of flushing several times with solvent
such as Kerosene while running the hub under no load and then lubing with oil to
loosen up a gear hub. A bit messy.
>
>   Also you should probably regrease the hub wheel bearings.
>
>   Rich Wood
>
>   --- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@> wrote:
>   >
>   > I have aquired two 3 speed bikes that have been stored for the last 25
years. One has a Shimano hub and the other is a Sturmey Archer. They both shift
hard, so I am suspecting that the need oil. Do I have to use specific oil for
each hub or can I buy one brand of oil to use in both? What brand of oil is
recommended? Do I need to have the hud serviced and cleaned?
>   >
>   > What should I do?
>   >
>   > Thanks
>   > Joe
>   > Wichita
>   >
>

Shimano lists a special high temperature coaster brake grease that should work
for greasing any coaster brake mechanism so far as I know.

Rich Wood

--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood" <astronut1001@...> wrote:
>
> Joe;
>
> I was thinking more Kerosene, an ounce or so, and then let it drain out
through the oiling hole after operating the hub under no load.  Repeat until it
drains out clean.  Then a big dose of oil to guarantee all parts are relubed,
rotate the hub under no load, and drain out the excess.  Why I said the job
could be messy.
>
> On bikes that old you should also probably clean and regrease the wheel
bearings, bottom brackets and headset bearings.  Also almost certainly replace
the brake pads as they harden with age.  The pads item does not apply if the
bikes are coaster brake only though if the coaster brakes are grabby or squeaky
they may need to be cleaned and greased too.
>
> Rich Wood
>
>
> --- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@> wrote:
> >
> > The cables are fine there isn't a bit of rust on either bike. However I will
give em a few drops for good measure. The Schwinn with the Sturmey Archer was
the worst. I could not get it to shift at all, until I hit the brakes a couple
of times and then things began to move. My guess is the oil had thickened over
the 25 years. I will add a few drops of Kerosene to loosen things up, then add
some oil.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> >
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Rich Wood
> >   To: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com
> >   Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 4:36 PM
> >   Subject: [Geared_hub_bikes] Re: Hub Oil?
> >
> >
> >     Joe;
> >
> >   Same oil for both. 20 or 30 weight oil should work fine. Also some report
good results using synthetic automatic transmission fluid.
> >
> >   First make sure that the shifting cables are not too stiff. Very good
chance of cable corrosion inside the outer housing if not used in years.
Replacing shifting cables or detaching the cables and checking for free movement
of the cable is suggested. If movement is stiff wick some oil into the cable
housing and work the cable until it slides freely inside the housing or replace
the shifter cables.
> >
> >   If not the cable then I have heard of flushing several times with solvent
such as Kerosene while running the hub under no load and then lubing with oil to
loosen up a gear hub. A bit messy.
> >
> >   Also you should probably regrease the hub wheel bearings.
> >
> >   Rich Wood
> >
> >   --- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <jfehrenbacher@> wrote:
> >   >
> >   > I have aquired two 3 speed bikes that have been stored for the last 25
years. One has a Shimano hub and the other is a Sturmey Archer. They both shift
hard, so I am suspecting that the need oil. Do I have to use specific oil for
each hub or can I buy one brand of oil to use in both? What brand of oil is
recommended? Do I need to have the hud serviced and cleaned?
> >   >
> >   > What should I do?
> >   >
> >   > Thanks
> >   > Joe
> >   > Wichita
> >   >
> >
>

Sierra Trading Post currently has Merino Wool jerseys available for under $50
apiece.  These are listed as Canari La Mongie retro short sleeve jersys.  Listed
as washable.  As of Friday all sizes were listed in three color combinations.

Quite retro looking with a single contrasting color horizontal stripe across the
chest, w/o any visible advertising name.  They look like photos I have seen of
what pro riders in the 60s and 70s wore but without a sponsor's name on the
stripe.

Not sure how good they are but I have ordered a couple.

Rich Wood

Do brand-new Alfine hubs have a breaking-in period where they are a little stiff
to rotate?

My new SG-S501 has resistance to rotating now it is on the bike. The resistance
is smooth and completely even throughout the turn of the wheel - there are no
loose spots and tight spots that would indicate a bent axle. If I lift the rear
of the bike and give the pedal a little kick, the wheel rotates for a turn or so
then comes to a distinct stop. It does this even with the brakes and chain off,
so the resistance is in the hub itself.

Shifting is perfect, quiet and smooth, cycling on it is great and the resistance
is slight so that there is no appreciable effect when ridden. The cabling is
good and the alignment marks are perfectly set up.

I was wondering if it was merely moving excess grease out of the way inside the
hub?

There is a break in period but a geared hub will never be as low resistance to
wheel spinning as a derailleur rear wheel due to the amount and size of the
internal parts and the relatively large diameter wheel bearings compared to
those found on a derailleur freehub.  The grease may contribute to the effect
too.  It better not move out of the way entirely as then there would be no
lubrication on moving parts.  That is why IGH greases are relatively fluid
compared to most so they can flow back into areas needing lubrication if
displaced.

Remember that in a freehub wheel, rotating in the freewheeling direction, the
only drag items are the wheel bearings and freewheel pawls.  I am not sure this
is true for an IGH.

Rich Wood


--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "dcoffey01" <dcoffey01@...> wrote:
>
> Do brand-new Alfine hubs have a breaking-in period where they are a little
stiff to rotate?
>
> My new SG-S501 has resistance to rotating now it is on the bike. The
resistance is smooth and completely even throughout the turn of the wheel -
there are no loose spots and tight spots that would indicate a bent axle. If I
lift the rear of the bike and give the pedal a little kick, the wheel rotates
for a turn or so then comes to a distinct stop. It does this even with the
brakes and chain off, so the resistance is in the hub itself.
>
> Shifting is perfect, quiet and smooth, cycling on it is great and the
resistance is slight so that there is no appreciable effect when ridden. The
cabling is good and the alignment marks are perfectly set up.
>
> I was wondering if it was merely moving excess grease out of the way inside
the hub?
>