HI All,
I just purchasesd a Vintage parasol,covered in what appears to be linen. The
cover is presently very dirty(like dust settled into the fabric and sat,
discoloring it) it is in remarkedly good condition given the age(I'd say
1910-20) It is or was a white or light beige/ecru color ,3/4 of the cover it the
"white" and the last 1/3rd is a pink with light striped woven into it. The 2
pieces are connected with a faggoting (?)stitch the handle tip and shaft are
painted wood.
I need to know the best way to clean the fabric.Should I try vaccuuming the
cover first? or perhaps try blasting the dust out with a compressed air can?
What soap/detergent is reccomended for the linen,as i don't want to shrink it.
About 30 yrs ago I conserved a similar paraasol in about the same state--trouble
is I had a small stroke 2 yrs ago and I can't remember how I did it...other then
it had distilled water in the plan.Do you think carbonated water might clean it
better then still wate? just a thought.
Anyway,any help appreciated.
melody
Ps .anyone know of a good book on how to recover old parasols?I couldn't find
one and I gor conflicting answers on wether the cover had to be cut on the
bias,for stretch or could be cut on grain in giant triangles.
Thanks again
melody

Try vaccuuming it first.  After that, I can't help, unfortunately.



________________________________
From: Melody <hobbitmomof4@...>
To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2013 2:54 AM
Subject: [F-Costume] Antique linen parasol : cleaning help

HI All,
I just purchasesd a Vintage parasol,covered in what appears to be linen. The
cover is presently very dirty(like dust settled into the fabric and sat,
discoloring it) it is in remarkedly good condition given the age(I'd say
1910-20) It is or was a white or light beige/ecru color ,3/4 of the cover it the
"white" and the last 1/3rd is a pink with light striped woven into it. The 2
pieces are connected with a faggoting (?)stitch the handle tip and shaft are
painted wood.
I need to know the best way to clean the fabric.Should I try vaccuuming the
cover first? or perhaps try blasting the dust out with a compressed air can?
What soap/detergent is reccomended for the linen,as i don't want to shrink it.
About 30 yrs ago I conserved a similar paraasol in about the same state--trouble
is I had a small stroke 2 yrs ago and I can't remember how I did it...other then
it had distilled water in the plan.Do you think carbonated water might clean it
better then still wate? just a thought.
Anyway,any help appreciated.
melody
Ps .anyone know of a good book on how to recover old parasols?I couldn't find
one and I gor conflicting answers on wether the cover had to be cut on the
bias,for stretch or could be cut on grain in giant triangles.
Thanks again
melody



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

A conservator technique is to vacuum with the fabric supported between two
screens. Start with the lowest setting on the vacuum.

Then there is wet vacuuming, although I'm not sure what you would use for
that.

The soap most recommended is Orvus.

-Carol


> Try vaccuuming it first.  After that, I can't help, unfortunately.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Melody <hobbitmomof4@...>
> To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2013 2:54 AM
> Subject: [F-Costume] Antique linen parasol : cleaning help
>
> HI All,
> I just purchasesd a Vintage parasol,covered in what appears to be linen.
> The cover is presently very dirty(like dust settled into the fabric and
> sat, discoloring it) it is in remarkedly good condition given the age(I'd
> say 1910-20) It is or was a white or light beige/ecru color ,3/4 of the
> cover it the "white" and the last 1/3rd is a pink with light striped woven
> into it. The 2 pieces are connected with a faggoting (?)stitch the handle
> tip and shaft are painted wood.
> I need to know the best way to clean the fabric.Should I try vaccuuming
> the cover first? or perhaps try blasting the dust out with a compressed
> air can? What soap/detergent is reccomended for the linen,as i don't want
> to shrink it. About 30 yrs ago I conserved a similar paraasol in about the
> same state--trouble is I had a small stroke 2 yrs ago and I can't remember
> how I did it...other then it had distilled water in the plan.Do you think
> carbonated water might clean it better then still wate? just a thought.
> Anyway,any help appreciated.
> melody
> Ps .anyone know of a good book on how to recover old parasols?I couldn't
> find one and I gor conflicting answers on wether the cover had to be cut
> on the bias,for stretch or could be cut on grain in giant triangles.
> Thanks again
> melody

Hello there!

I am looking for some advice, or at least some opinions. :)
I am making this dress:
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5317-products-9434.php
that has box pleats in the skirt for an Ironman inspired dress.

It occurred to me that satin could be a nice interpretation of the shiny metal,
but I'm concerned that the satin can't hold the pleats. The pleats need to
survive several hours of dancing, and a 20 minute car ride.

I would be purchasing the casa satin (100% poly) from JoAnn fabrics, or
something of equal quality.

I thought I could go for a less pressed look, but the dress just doesn't look
right without the crisp pleats. I can go starch crazy, and I can stitch the
valleys until the box pleat opens to help the pleats last. But I don't want to
look like a hot mess before I even arrive to the party (leaving that way is just
fine). :D

Thoughts? Advice? I will do cotton if necessary, because unfortunately I don't
have enough time to make another mock-up.

Thank you very much :D
Amanda

Instead of pressing, have you considered top stitching the
folds?  I've also seen where fusible sewing thread was placed inside
the folds and then ironed to also keep the fold as a fold.
Ann in Arkansas

>> top stitching the folds

Down the length of the skirt? I think I would be concerned how that would look,
especially on top of shiny fabric. I guess I've always considered topstitching
as a less desirable method.

>>fusible sewing thread
Like Stitch Witchery or something similar?

Thank you for your help :)



--- On Thu, 1/31/13, Ann Garner <agarner@...> wrote:

From: Ann Garner <agarner@...>
Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Pressing pleats in to satin
To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, January 31, 2013, 9:25 PM
















 









       Instead of pressing, have you considered top stitching the

folds?  I've also seen where fusible sewing thread was placed inside

the folds and then ironed to also keep the fold as a fold.

Ann in Arkansas



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

At 08:37 PM 1/31/2013, you wrote:
>
>
> >> top stitching the folds
>
>Down the length of the skirt? I think I would be concerned how that
>would look, especially on top of shiny fabric. I guess I've always
>considered topstitching as a less desirable method.
>
> >>fusible sewing thread
>Like Stitch Witchery or something similar?
Yes, exactly like Stitch Witchery, but it comes in sewing thread form.
And you're welcome
Ann in Arkansas

OP here. Has anyone tried the Rajah press cloth? I'm looking for a way to
chemically set the pleats, and stumbled in to this. Thanks again! :)



--- On Thu, 1/31/13, cuprysa@... <cuprysa@...> wrote:

From: cuprysa@... <cuprysa@...>
Subject: [F-Costume] Pressing pleats in to satin
To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, January 31, 2013, 9:14 PM
















 









       Hello there!



I am looking for some advice, or at least some opinions. :)

I am making this dress:

http://butterick.mccall.com/b5317-products-9434.php

that has box pleats in the skirt for an Ironman inspired dress.



It occurred to me that satin could be a nice interpretation of the shiny metal,
but I'm concerned that the satin can't hold the pleats. The pleats need to
survive several hours of dancing, and a 20 minute car ride.



I would be purchasing the casa satin (100% poly) from JoAnn fabrics, or
something of equal quality.



I thought I could go for a less pressed look, but the dress just doesn't look
right without the crisp pleats. I can go starch crazy, and I can stitch the
valleys until the box pleat opens to help the pleats last. But I don't want to
look like a hot mess before I even arrive to the party (leaving that way is just
fine). :D



Thoughts? Advice? I will do cotton if necessary, because unfortunately I don't
have enough time to make another mock-up.



Thank you very much :D

Amanda



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I did some googling...  lots of tips out there...

Basic is heavy spritzing w/ a WHITE  vinegar and water mix.  Press w/
cloth pressing cloth, carefully.... and let dry before moving on to the
next secretion.  How much vinegar was the debate.  Main numbers I saw
was between 1:8 to 1:1.  I think 1:4 might be the best... 1 cup water,
and 1/4 cup white vinegar.  Though it also depends on figure content.

However... just for fun...  here's a bunch of links, avoiding some of
the add-screaming sites.  No special order on importants on these.  Do
read the comments.

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=242\
1
http://forums.threadsmagazine.com/gatherings/fabric-and-trim/permanent-pleats
More links:
http://www.burdastyle.com/discussions/skill-tank/topics/how-would-one-heat-set-a\
ccordion-pleats--2
Insane pro bits: http://fashion-incubator.com/archive/pleating/

For a few pleats, these are the way to go... but as some of the comments
note, there's a point where it's a lot easier to have it done by a pro,
and isn't that expensive.

-Cat-
http://www.anniescatalog.com/notions/list.html?cat_id=1522

Hi, How about cotton sateen? If you find a high quality sateen it will have a
beautiful sheen and press very well. Also it is easily laundered.

--- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Amanda  wrote:
>
> OP here. Has anyone tried the Rajah press cloth? I'm looking for a way to
chemically set the pleats, and stumbled in to this. Thanks again! :)
>
>
>
> --- On Thu, 1/31/13, cuprysa@...  wrote:
>
> From: cuprysa@...
> Subject: [F-Costume] Pressing pleats in to satin
> To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, January 31, 2013, 9:14 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       Hello there!
>
>
>
> I am looking for some advice, or at least some opinions. :)
>
> I am making this dress:
>
> http://butterick.mccall.com/b5317-products-9434.php
>
> that has box pleats in the skirt for an Ironman inspired dress.
>
>
>
> It occurred to me that satin could be a nice interpretation of the shiny
metal, but I'm concerned that the satin can't hold the pleats. The pleats need
to survive several hours of dancing, and a 20 minute car ride.
>
>
>
> I would be purchasing the casa satin (100% poly) from JoAnn fabrics, or
something of equal quality.
>
>
>
> I thought I could go for a less pressed look, but the dress just doesn't look
right without the crisp pleats. I can go starch crazy, and I can stitch the
valleys until the box pleat opens to help the pleats last. But I don't want to
look like a hot mess before I even arrive to the party (leaving that way is just
fine). :D
>
>
>
> Thoughts? Advice? I will do cotton if necessary, because unfortunately I don't
have enough time to make another mock-up.
>
>
>
> Thank you very much :D
>
> Amanda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I went looking for the sateens and egyptian cottons, but they just aren't
*quite* shiny enough. Thank you for the suggestion, though!   ^_^
Amanda

--- On Fri, 2/1/13, Andrea <princess_hyrule@...> wrote:

From: Andrea <princess_hyrule@...>
Subject: [F-Costume] Re: Pressing pleats in to satin
To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, February 1, 2013, 12:40 AM
















 









       Hi, How about cotton sateen? If you find a high quality sateen it will
have a beautiful sheen and press very well. Also it is easily laundered.



--- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Amanda  wrote:

>

> OP here. Has anyone tried the Rajah press cloth? I'm looking for a way to
chemically set the pleats, and stumbled in to this. Thanks again! :)

>

>

>

> --- On Thu, 1/31/13, cuprysa@...  wrote:

>

> From: cuprysa@...

> Subject: [F-Costume] Pressing pleats in to satin

> To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com

> Date: Thursday, January 31, 2013, 9:14 PM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>  

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>       Hello there!

>

>

>

> I am looking for some advice, or at least some opinions. :)

>

> I am making this dress:

>

> http://butterick.mccall.com/b5317-products-9434.php

>

> that has box pleats in the skirt for an Ironman inspired dress.

>

>

>

> It occurred to me that satin could be a nice interpretation of the shiny
metal, but I'm concerned that the satin can't hold the pleats. The pleats need
to survive several hours of dancing, and a 20 minute car ride.

>

>

>

> I would be purchasing the casa satin (100% poly) from JoAnn fabrics, or
something of equal quality.

>

>

>

> I thought I could go for a less pressed look, but the dress just doesn't look
right without the crisp pleats. I can go starch crazy, and I can stitch the
valleys until the box pleat opens to help the pleats last. But I don't want to
look like a hot mess before I even arrive to the party (leaving that way is just
fine). :D

>

>

>

> Thoughts? Advice? I will do cotton if necessary, because unfortunately I don't
have enough time to make another mock-up.

>

>

>

> Thank you very much :D

>

> Amanda

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Cat!
I'll check out those links. I found the vinegar trick as well, but I'm not sure
how it would react to the poly. I'll do a test spot if I go that route. Also
investigating the Rajah press cloth, but the reviews are few and far between.
Thanks again!



--- On Fri, 2/1/13, Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...> wrote:

From: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...>
Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Pressing pleats in to satin
To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, February 1, 2013, 12:30 AM
















 









       I did some googling...  lots of tips out there...



Basic is heavy spritzing w/ a WHITE  vinegar and water mix.  Press w/

cloth pressing cloth, carefully.... and let dry before moving on to the

next secretion.  How much vinegar was the debate.  Main numbers I saw

was between 1:8 to 1:1.  I think 1:4 might be the best... 1 cup water,

and 1/4 cup white vinegar.  Though it also depends on figure content.



However... just for fun...  here's a bunch of links, avoiding some of

the add-screaming sites.  No special order on importants on these.  Do

read the comments.



http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=242\
1

http://forums.threadsmagazine.com/gatherings/fabric-and-trim/permanent-pleats

More links:

http://www.burdastyle.com/discussions/skill-tank/topics/how-would-one-heat-set-a\
ccordion-pleats--2

Insane pro bits: http://fashion-incubator.com/archive/pleating/



For a few pleats, these are the way to go... but as some of the comments

note, there's a point where it's a lot easier to have it done by a pro,

and isn't that expensive.



-Cat-

http://www.anniescatalog.com/notions/list.html?cat_id=1522



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

He, folks... if you reply to this... please trim out my links.   IT's trying to
treat that many links as spam.

>> I'll check out those links. I found the vinegar trick as well, but I'm not
sure how it would react to the poly. I'll do a test spot if I go that route.

Should be perfect for polly.  But you do need to test... Test for color fastness
AND what temperature you want the iron.  AND always use a pressing cloth w/
this.   Basically anytime you're going to high heat for a fabric, need a
pressing cloth.   But remember, it's the cloth one this time, not the see-though
Teflon one because you're using a LOT of steam.

>> Also investigating the Rajah press cloth, but the reviews are few and far
between.

Haven't looked that up, but wonder if it's vinegar infused.

-Cat-

Monthly rules reminder....

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Ok... now for the icky stuff... please give this at least one read... for they
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Be nice.. no flaming.  Respect everyone, even if they're different from you. 
Different opinions are allowed.  This is not rocket science -- there can be more
than one right answer depending on the circumstances.

This list is for everyone from 8 to 80.  Please leave the swearing at home. 
However, since we will be talking about costumes and fit, sometimes we will need
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Please make sure your Subject is correct.  Change it as needed.

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Just copy a sentence or 2 from the other post.

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your questions, we may refer you there, but that doesn't mean you can't still
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--- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Melody"  wrote:
<snip> Ps .anyone know of a good book on how to recover old parasols?I couldn't
find one and I gor conflicting answers on wether the cover had to be cut on the
bias,for stretch or could be cut on grain in giant triangles.<snip>

I have a great book to suggest: Rachel E. Pollock is La Bricoleuse, Costume
Craft Artisan extraordinaire. She teaches Theatrical Costuming, blogs on Live
Journal, and has written a self-published parasol book that is really worth
while. She's also done several projects with fabric design on Spoonflower,
including a set of historical folding-fan repros I'm bookmarking for this year.
Her parasol book is available in e-book, paperback and hardback. I got the
paperback myself.

http://www.lulu.com/shop/search.ep?contributorId=314829

 
http://www.lulu.com/shop/rachel-e-pollock/sticks-in-petticoatsparasol-manufactur\
e-for-the-modern-costumer-full-color/paperback/product-2138316.html;jsessionid=C\
7F87E7A958AA87245A08C9419090D3D

Jonatha

I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can offer
any advice on making it?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.j\
pg


- Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a "Tube",
loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be snuggle around
my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)

- What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR Long
Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion", compared to
the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?

- Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the skirt?

- How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
"puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times
the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?


The skirt will be for this Outfit =>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/L\
C84-02cut.jpg
and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while the
Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too at the back
(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg |
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)


Thanks ^_^

Fatimah

On 2/14/2013 3:19 AM, darth_eagle wrote:
> I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone
> can offer any advice on making it?
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.j\
pg
>
> - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as
> a "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll
> be snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
That's  not regular spandex... that's power net, or the modern
equivalent.  And look at the waist area.  That may be a regular elastic
(very wide kind, trimmed and zigged at the bottom edge (which isn't a
good thing).

Basically, you're looking for the material that they make the modern
"Spanks", or "sharpers", or "enhancers" out of.  Given I know you don't
have access to great a fabric center... you might want to get a high
waisted shaper if you don't have one already. Actually the long legged
kind.  (And in the two much information deparment, they are a bit split
so you don't have to peel the whole thing off to use the basic
physilities.)  The open shape has a tendency to ride up... and you're
not likely to find one pre-made as long as you need.

This fabric is very stretchy BOTH ways, else you couldn't sit. You're
seeing the wrinkles in the front of the stomach because it's too tight
for that manikin at the stomach.

If you start w/ a shaper, then you could  just use spandex, not fitted
quite as tight for the upper skirt area.

> - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle
> OR Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top
> portion", compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
>
Strip.  It's not an exact rectangle because it's longer in back than
front.  Where you connect the two, make sure to use a very stretchy
stitch.  You may need to put bias tape or binding around that seam so it
doesn't scratch.

> - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the
> skirt?
>
Illusion.    It's the the stiff bridal vale stuff.

> - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
> "puffiness" as seen in the photo
I think it's just folded in half... the gather stitch is in the
center.... and it's folder over.   Thing to note... There's a thick row
of tape under at the seam.  It doesn't look like there's cording there,
but it's a fairly solid bias tape.

It looks like both edges (top and under) hare finished with lace. Can't
tell if it's flat, or has a slight basic gater.
> - and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times the length of the Top
> Netting Bottom Hem)?
I think it's a 3:1, which is the standard tight gather.  Though the top
might be a 4:1
ANYONE ELSE???  I know it's not Max gathered like a Tutu... but  am
guessing a tad.

Good luck.

-Cat-

Cat, everything you said sounds about right.
If she starts with a shaper undergarment, and doesn't want to attach the
tulle skirt assembly to it, then the narrow tube top part of it could
also be swimsuit type fabric, which is stretchy in both directions, but
doesn't have the "hold-you-in" factor of powernet.

The outfit she's making it to go under, reminds me of a technique I saw
in a friend's wedding dress years ago. She had these lovely crisply
flared sleeves, which were made by marrying a layer of robust tulle
(could have even been crin, it's been a while) to the back of the
fashion fabric. If I was trying to get a skirt to make those big springy
loopy flares, I'd start by underlining it with tulle, at least one
layer, maybe a second in the lower portion, and then adding horsehair
braid to the hem.
The dress pattern would need to be princess seams, possibly with added
gores but preferably just really flared lower skirts.

On 2/14/2013 6:19 AM, darth_eagle wrote:
> I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can
> offer any advice on making it?
>
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.j\
pg
>
> - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a
> "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be
> snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
>
> - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR
> Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion",
> compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
>
> - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the
> skirt?
>
> - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
> "puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3
> times the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?
>
> The skirt will be for this Outfit =>
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/L\
C84-02cut.jpg
> and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while
> the Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too
> at the back (
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg
> |
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)
>
> Thanks ^_^
>
> Fatimah
>
>

It's a God Save the Queen Fashions petticoat, you could jus

On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:19 AM, "darth_eagle" <darth_eagle@...> wrote:

> I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can offer
any advice on making it?
>
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.j\
pg
>
> - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a
"Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be snuggle
around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
>
> - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR Long
Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion", compared to
the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
>
> - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the skirt?
>
> - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
"puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times
the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?
>
> The skirt will be for this Outfit =>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/L\
C84-02cut.jpg
> and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while the
Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too at the back
(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg |
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)
>
> Thanks ^_^
>
> Fatimah
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

So sorry my phone got hit by a cat and was sent early, if you could ask on the
fabric type she usually shares that info since the how to seems to he tackled
already.

Silvara

On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:19 AM, "darth_eagle" <darth_eagle@...> wrote:

> I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can offer
any advice on making it?
>
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.j\
pg
>
> - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a
"Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be snuggle
around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
>
> - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR Long
Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion", compared to
the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
>
> - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the skirt?
>
> - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
"puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times
the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?
>
> The skirt will be for this Outfit =>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/L\
C84-02cut.jpg
> and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while the
Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too at the back
(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg |
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)
>
> Thanks ^_^
>
> Fatimah
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Also, when you stitch the gathered netting to the tube, first, work
from the bottom up.  Second, lay the netting so the bottom edge
points toward the waist.  Stitch it to the tube, then let the netting
fall over the stitching to lay the correct way.  This both hides the
stitching and the raw edges (less snags), and gives more fullness and
springiness because you have essentially doubled the depth of the
gathering at the attachment point.

Hope this helps!

Sandy

At 06:26 AM 2/14/2013, you wrote:
>
>On 2/14/2013 3:19 AM, darth_eagle wrote:
> > I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone
> > can offer any advice on making it?
> >
>
<http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.\
jpg>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631\
_o.jpg
> >
> > - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as
> > a "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll
> > be snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
>That's not regular spandex... that's power net, or the modern
>equivalent. And look at the waist area. That may be a regular elastic
>(very wide kind, trimmed and zigged at the bottom edge (which isn't a
>good thing).

---snip---

> > - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle
> > OR Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top
> > portion", compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
> >
>Strip. It's not an exact rectangle because it's longer in back than
>front. Where you connect the two, make sure to use a very stretchy
>stitch. You may need to put bias tape or binding around that seam so it
>doesn't scratch.
>
> > - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the
> > skirt?
> >
>Illusion. It's the the stiff bridal vale stuff.
>
> > - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
> > "puffiness" as seen in the photo
>I think it's just folded in half... the gather stitch is in the
>center.... and it's folder over. Thing to note... There's a thick row
>of tape under at the seam. It doesn't look like there's cording there,
>but it's a fairly solid bias tape.
>
>---snip---
>Good luck.
>
>-Cat-

International Costumers' Guild Archivist

http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php

"Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...> wrote:
> If you start w/ a shaper, then you could  just use spandex, not
> fitted quite as tight for the upper skirt area.


Ya, I will be wearing the usual Waist Cincher and maybe Shaper Trousers (haven't
get round to get one yet as last time I bought it, it got torn the first time I
wore it thanks to a clip in my nail! @_@ Then again, it was one of those
"slightly thicker" than Pantyhose kind) underneath the Petticoat Skirt so dun
need addition "support" from the Petticoat Skirt. -_^
And there will still be a slight allowance around the Tummy & Thigh portions of
the actual dress apart from it's Lined, so any "patterning" dun show through too
much.

So guess normal Spandex/Lycra will do for the top portion? I might indulge a bit
and get better quality Polyester Lycra from Spotlight for it, rather than the
cheaper "overly stretchy" Spandex from regular cloth shops.


> Strip.  It's not an exact rectangle because it's longer in back than
> front.  Where you connect the two, make sure to use a very stretchy
> stitch.  You may need to put bias tape or binding around that seam
> so it doesn't scratch.

Okay, I'm very "naive" over sewing elastic cloths :
Just regular Zigzag Stitches with normal polyester thread will do right?

Do I need to try to stretch the Lycra a bit and align it with the slightly
gathered netting too to retain better the elasticity of the Lycra?


> Illusion.    It's the the stiff bridal vale stuff.

Illusion as Netting or more towards the Organza kind?


> I think it's a 3:1, which is the standard tight gather.  Though the
> top might be a 4:1

Top is the wider portion right that is sew to the Lycra/Spandex?


Thanks for the advice :)

Fatimah

Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@...> wrote:
> The dress pattern would need to be princess seams, possibly with
> added gores but preferably just really flared lower skirts.


Yub yub. ;)
I'm planning to put Princess Seams into the design (well, actually since I'm
busty, all my dress have Princess Seams) after seeing others who had done it
"correctly" had it too.
Also will have additional panels added in between the Seams to increase the
bottom flare so it'll be close to Full Circle. :P

Something like this tho' the part where it flares out isn't suppose to be that
"tight" (ya, I need to do Sketch Version 3.0 to correct the error I made in V2
Sketch)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/\
WIP/sasha_s2_design2.jpg
(Ps : The Tight Sleeves seen sew to the Armhole isn't suppose to be in the
original dress design. I have it, made from regular Illusion Cloth, cause I dun
like to expose my Upper Arm skin as it's too pockmarked @_@ )


Fatimah

Silvara <silvaragreenleaf@...> wrote:
> if you could ask on the fabric type she usually shares that info since the how
to seems to he tackled already.


Am still waiting for a reply to my enquires but guess she might be busy right
now with a project to unable to reply in details and it onlu been like 2 days
since I last asked. :/

Fatimah

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@...> wrote:
> Also, when you stitch the gathered netting to the tube, first, work
> from the bottom up.  Second, lay the netting so the bottom edge
> points toward the waist.  Stitch it to the tube, then let the netting
> fall over the stitching to lay the correct way.  This both hides the
> stitching and the raw edges (less snags), and gives more fullness and
> springiness because you have essentially doubled the depth of the
> gathering at the attachment point.

Thanks for the advice :)
Will do that when I sew it to the Tube top ;)

Fatimah

This issue explores some of the more unusual aspects of technologies used in the
costumer's art from useful devices to truly wacky inventions.

http://www.SiWCostumers.org and select Virtual Costumer, then Current Issue. 
Choose Volume 10 issue 4.

Enjoy!

Phil Gust
editor

Monthly rules reminder....

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Hi everyone! I'm working through some costume concepts for DragonCon so I need
to tap the brain trust to see if I can even do some things.

I need a full body suit (head included) where the body is red and the head is
metalic silver. Can I use a red suit and just paint the head or would it be
better to find a silver head piece to sew onto a red suit?

I need a purple/blue stuffed octopus with brown under tones. I've found a
PERFECT brown octopus. Can I use fabric spray paint on him to get the blue and
green? Can I use regular acrylic and an airbrush? It will be a light coat
because I want the brown to show in areas. He won't ever be used with children
so not at all worried about it being in anyones mouth.

Thanks!
Sheree

http://slideshow.today.com/slideshow/today/best-of-bizarre-style-at-paris-fashio\
n-week-51054782/

Thank goodness fro the French, the NY Fashion week and "good" designs but
not fun ones!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

A couple of articles on costuming the upcoming "Oz" film in the Disney Insider
News.  Looks like they are giving this film a "push".

Interview
http://blogs.disney.com/insider/articles/2013/03/05/fashion-and-fantasy-dressing\
-the-world-of-oz/

Sketches
http://blogs.disney.com/insider/photos/2013/03/05/costumes-and-couture-for-oz/