Hi,
Marden's is having 20% off everything in their stores. In the fabric and craft
department
they are selling their tapestry and upholstery fabric for $3 per yard.
Unfortunately, there's
not much left. The one I had my eye on was already snatched up. There are
still some
nice pieces, but they're going fast!
Bye,
Gwen.
Gwen, If you spot anything good, i.e., trim, fabric,
etc., let me know. I usually try to get to Marden's in
Brewer, but sometimes I miss these goodies.
Thanks,
Anne
--- Wendi <lobster_kelaguen@...> wrote:
> Hi,
> Marden's is having 20% off everything in their
> stores. In the fabric and craft department
> they are selling their tapestry and upholstery
> fabric for $3 per yard. Unfortunately, there's
> not much left. The one I had my eye on was already
> snatched up. There are still some
> nice pieces, but they're going fast!
>
> Bye,
> Gwen.
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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This is a neat overview of when cotton was brought into Europe and started to be used for fabric. I thought it might be of interest, as fustian cloth (linen warp, cotton weft) was used as far back as the 14th century. Modern linen/cotton blends are great, if you can find them! Most places seem to have linen/rayon blends, and they don't breathe so well. I hope this is of interest.
Subject: Fw: [TheRenTailor] Cotton and linen trade records from 12thC and upwards
---------- Forwarded Message ---------- Hi, While I don't feel like entering the discussion on correct fibers or not, I have been reading up on flax/cotton/wool production, growth and fabric manufacture lately in both Europe and Norway. :-)
For those who might be interested, here follows a highly abreviated look at the production and import/export of cotton, linen, fustian from the 13thC and a few hundred years on in Europe according to ; Power and profit, The merchant in medieval europe by Peter Spufford (a very highly recommended book btw, the section on wool alone...)
13thC Lombardy produced large quantities of linen and cheaper wools,engaged in manufacture of cotton fabrics. The cotton was imported from Asia Minor and Syria specifically (where the best cotton was grown from the 12thC) through venice and genoa Cotton fabrics from Lomardy was exported throughout Europe, the mediteranien and even back to Syria
Paper production in Italy was closly linked to the linen industry from the 13thC (paper made of rags)
1213 Goods sought taken during an attack on Damme, the port of Bruges; wool from England, cotton from Armenia...
1279 A Corsican pirate seized a Scicillian ship from Syracuse on its way to genoa loaded with 30 rotoli of ready spun cotton. In Sicilly , cotton was planted as a summer crop to altenate in winter with wheat or barley.
1279 A Piesan merchant on his mediteranian trade ; cotton from Laiasso in Hermenia,cotton of oltamare (Syrian-Palestinian). The cotton could be carried from Acre as well as Armenia and was carried to Pisa. Then by piseans to Bougie in the Maghreb (Algeria).
He also mentions cotton from Sicilly.
14th C ; Italians exported quality linen from various regions of Europe to persia and central Asia
In Lombardy the manufacture of fustians(linen warp, cotton weft) grew at the expense of both pure cotton and linen fabrics
South german export of fustian to Italy and reimport of linen and cotton fabrics
The bombasine of Marseilles (hemp-cotton mix) of burgundian hemp and cotton imported from levant was used as sailcloth
Venetians began to grow cotton in Cyprus and Crete to supplement and partially replace their purchases of cotton from Egypt, Syria and Asia Minor. Similarly the the cultivation of cotton spread from Sicilly to Calabria, Apulia and Malta.
1330-40 ? Armenia is mentioned as a source of cotton in list of rawmaterials imported to Brugge. Most of the cotton was not of armenian origin, but exported from muslim coutries via christian Armenia to Europe. Cotton from Syria and Iraq.Egypt.
1370s merchants from Ulm, Augsburg and Nuremburg were buying raw cotton from Syria in Milan and Venice. The traditional flax growing Swabia , started producing fustian. Fustian was exported to Frankfurt and Cologne.
1379 In Damascus, Champagne linen of Rheims was priced at over 5,5 times Swabian linen of Constance,and ten times italian linen. It was only exceeded in price by the very finest Florentine woolens.
1384 Egyptian women observed wearing "linen of Rheims"
1390 Customs Account London; 12000 pieces of linen , each 50 ells long imported. Of thos 6000 came from Westphalia, 5500 flemish from Flanders mostly
15thC Cotton from Turkish control diminishes Swabia is exporting fustian to the northwest and north from Spain, to england,to the Hanseatic customers in the Baltic.At the beginning of the 15thC, 50000 pieces of linen and 100000 pieces of fustian were stamped at Ulm.
Cotton for fustian for the polish and hungarian market was imported via the Black sea through Lvov
Egypt becomes a large scale producer of cotton
1412 The king of Hungary(...) attempts a blocade of Venetia, depending on Genoa to supply Swabia with cotton. They were unable to meet both demand in quantities or qualities for cotton. The venetians had plantations in Cyprus and Crete, exported cotton from Syria and Egypt by way of Alexandria and Beirut. The genoese did not have these options.
1417 the doge of venice imposed crippling import dues on german fustian in an attempt to protect the fustian manufacture of the venetian areas
1430 Rheims linen cost well over the average price for English woolen broadcloth at the time
1438-39 The warderobe accounts of Henry VI of England The finest Rheins linen costs 7 times as much as Brabant linen
Early 16th C half the peasant household in the Oudenaarde area had looms. Flax- growing and linen-weaving was favored by smallholders. While very labourintensive, the returns were commenusratly worthwhile. A hectare sown with flax could yield 1200 ells of linen
On a final note ; Silk and cotton were worth carrying wast distances. Flax and hemp were not. manufacture of linens and fustians, canvas and rope became localised in the particular areas of Europe where hemp and flax easily grew. The flax and hemp trade were in manufactured goods, not raw materials.
I am browsing through a number of norwegian books too. And a few things are already clear; Either due to a decline of flax production after the plague in the 14thC or other reasons, Norway had little flax production before the 16th-17thC. Underwear was mostly of hemp or wool.
Flax production was activly encouraged after the 30 years war and other excesses of our danish king. Quite possibly because flax production and manufacture could be taxed. The coffers were a bit depleted.
In the 16th C linen shirts were a costly garment. In the 17thC cotton was cheap enough and common enough to be more widely available. Leading to a rising number of shirts.
Most locally made linen was used where it was grown. The quality was fairly rough. The Hardanger style embroidery is corruption of fine italian reticella embroidery, simplified and better suited to rough linen (aprons).
Gunvor
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Subject: Fw: [TheRenTailor] Reprinted pattern books from the 16th-17thC
---------- Forwarded Message ---------- And a few new ones with 17thC patterns. I've been buying books again and came across this website. Some of the books they sell are hard to get hold of ,if possible at all.
German Renaisssance Patterns for Embroidery (by Nicolas Bassee) Facsimile of "New Modelbuch von Allerhandt Art Nehens und Stickens". An illus. introduction by Epstein, along with a bibliography. B/W drawings and charts. Paper, 123pp, 5 1/2 x 8 ISBN 0963333143 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0030.shtml
Patterns - Book of Embroidery: 1534 (by Johan Schartzenberger) Reprint of Ein Formbuchlein Johan Sshartzenberger Augsburg 1543, one of the earliest pattern studies. Consists entirely of border patterns as appropriate for silk and gold thread embroidery and applique. Paper, 42 pp., 7 1/2 x 9 ISBN 189165649X http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW5029.shtml
Patterns - Embroidery: Early 16th Century (by Claude Nourry & Pierre de Saincte Louie) An abridged facsimile of a late 19th C facsimile of 4 early 16th C French pattern books. 123 pp of patterns, 16 pp of French text. Paper, 144pp, 7 1/2 x 9 ISBN 1891656163 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0093.shtml
Book of Flowers, Fruits, Beasts, Birds, & Flies: 17th C Patterns for Embroiderers by Peter Stent, intro. by Cora Ginsberg & Donna Ghelerter) A facsimile of a 17th C book containing 19 natural history plates showing over 75 floral and fauna images that were used by embroiderers. Intro. and analysis of the plates. B/W with 7 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0050.shtml
A Schole-House for the Needle -1632 (by Richard Shorleyker) Exact reprint of the 1632 edition. Not recharted. Paper, 61 pp, 9 x 6 ISBN 1872665721 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0164.shtml
British Embroidery: Curious Works from the 17th Century (by Kathleen Epstein) Color, b/w photos throughout. Paper, 109pp, 8 1/2 x 11 ISBN 0963333194 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0159.shtml
Jacobean Embroidery (by Ada Wentworth Fitzwilliam & A.F. Morris Hands) Historical info is followed by 27 sketches of details from period pieces along with descriptions of the original colors and stitches used. 4 color plates, line drawings. Paper, 60pp, http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0106.shtml
Jacobean Iron-On Transfer Patterns (by Linda Ormesson) 24 transfer patterns from 17th C embroidered hangings. Special charts & instructions for 12 different filling stitches. Paper, 56pp, 8 1/4 x 11 ISBN 0486236390 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0107.shtml
Historic Floral & Animal Designs for Embroiderers & Craftsmen (by Suzanne Chapman) 73 designs adapted from textile work, 16th thru 19th C. Line drawings with textile type, country of origin & century noted. Paper, 80pp, 8 3/8 x 11 1/4 ISBN 0486235262 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0103.shtml
98 Pattern Books for Embroidery, Lace, & Knitting (by Charlotte Paludan & Lone de Hemmer Egeberg) Lists the principal printed pattern books available in the 16th & 17th centuries. Paper, 71b/w, 3 color illus., 107pp, 8 x 9. ISBN 8787075768 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0163.shtml
Exploring Elizabethan Embroidery (by Dorothy Clarke) A how-to of raised stitches used by Elizabethan embroiderers. Clear, precise, illustrated instructions for all stitches. Beautiful color photos of projects both historic and contemporary in flavor. Paper, 103pp, 10 1/4 x 7 http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKNW0009.shtml
Gunvor
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Hello all,
We just picked up three new folks who are interested in sewing, and
if possible it would be great if they could email the group to let
us know who they are and what they want to make. It would be great
if the rest of us introduce ourselves too, so the newer folks know
who we are and what we do. We're all interested in costuming, and
now we have people spread out over a fairly large area. Our
original purpose was to get a sewing group going in the Waterville
area. I have no idea if we can all get together for a group, but at
least we can all support each other online!
We have a ton of links at our Groups web site, so please take some
time and look through them. There's lots of neat costuming stuff
there! Also, anyone can post links or photos up at the Group site
(if it's inappropriate, I will remove it). If you find a really
cool costume or fabric/trim site, please share!
I'm Ysabiau de Mortagne - I make late period garb, and I really love
doing blackwork embroidery. I am learning to make bobbin lace, and
made my own bobbin lace pillow from instructions on the internet (I
hate spending lots of money on things I can learn to make!). I have
our kingdom level award for arts & sciences for embroidery and
costume. I am remaking my wardrobe (nothing fits right anymore,
wah!), and have cut out the pieces for a new corset. And my new
fencing armor is almost done, yay! (Thanks again, Gwen, for helping
me with those measurements!) Next up, finding materials for a
farthingale.
I hope we can get this group idea up and running. With more
schedules (and children) to juggle, it will be interesting!
-Ysabiau
Greetings all!
I thought I would introduce myself, as requested. My name is Marge
and I live in Anson with my six—yes, I said six—children. We are
new to SCA and everyone needs garb! Fortunately I taught myself to
sew several years ago when my oldest daughter, Kelsey, now 14, was
small. Like Ysabiau, I also hate to buy something I know I can
make. I also do needlework, mostly cross-stitch and some
needlepoint, so I am interested in that too. (And many other
activities in SCA.)
My three oldest (Kelsey; Jacob, 12; and Kaleb, 11) were able to
attend the demo at Fort Knox on Saturday and had a great time. I
was unable to attend because I am in Boston Children's Hospital with
my 8-year-old Jossilyn so I convinced my sister to take them. (My
other two kids are Kaylin, 4, and Josie, 16 months.
We have not chosen a time period, although I am leaning towards 15th
century. ( Or location. Or names...)
I am anxious to get started but I will be in Boston for a couple
more weeks at least. Once I get back home, our schedules are fairly
flexible, partly due to the fact that we homeschool. Meanwhile you
can be sure I will be checking out all the links and stuff.
Looking forward to sewing with you all!
Marge
My name is Freida and my roots are in Wilton. I have two teen boys who have been interested in becoming part of the SCA since the middle of summer when the Neville Companye came to Farmington. I’m also the sister of Marge that went to FortKnox for the Demo this weekend. I’m not the best at sowing, my talent is better at adapting thing to fit. I do some needle and bead work. If anybody knows of someone I would like to learn more about leather working. I’m also very flexible and the creating of the garments for my sons and myself are what I want to do.
Can’t wait to get started,
Freida
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My name is Doug Saball and I live in Unity. Like Fredia I too saw the Neville Componye (War of Roses) at Farmington and joined them shortly after (they have a Yahoo group too and starting a youth program in Augusta Wednesday nights). My family went to both events because out youngest son Peter is interested in mythical middle ages.
Presently we are in the research or our character names and persona. My wife Mary (Powers) has linage that goes back to the Battle of Hastings in 1066, Waterford Ireland, England (through the Mayflower in the US and is one of the settling families of Newery Maine when it was part of Canada). My name sake goes back to Napoleon's army, France, England and Ireland. One of our hobbies is geology and we are periodically looking up leads to ancestors.
Mary is an accomplished sewer and has been sewing since she was young. I also know how to sew and have some patterns running around in my head. Although we could use some patterns and suggestions.
I have read that SCA encompasses a wider range of years than the Neville Companye and saw the difference at Fort Knox.
Mary and I have talked about having a sewing day with the Neville's some time this fall/winter. Maybe we could combine with SCA?
A neighbor of ours in Albion who is in the Neville's is planning a leather work day. Both Mary and I have worked with leather since Mary also has horses and their tack needs repair now and then.
Well enough for now,
Doug Saball
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Hi, Doug! We live in Unity, too! Frasier, Maddie and I are on Main Street. Maddie and I are home most of the time. Frasier works at Unity College and I take classes up there.
For patterns and suggestions, please check out the links at the group web site. There's a lot of info available there.
Subject: [EndeweardeTailor] And the other new member
Ello Ye Al;
My name is Doug Saball and I live in Unity. Like Fredia I too saw the Neville Componye (War of Roses) at Farmington and joined them shortly after (they have a Yahoo group too and starting a youth program in Augusta Wednesday nights). My family went to both events because out youngest son Peter is interested in mythical middle ages.
Presently we are in the research or our character names and persona. My wife Mary (Powers) has linage that goes back to the Battle of Hastings in 1066, Waterford Ireland, England (through the Mayflower in the US and is one of the settling families of Newery Maine when it was part of Canada). My name sake goes back to Napoleon's army, France, England and Ireland. One of our hobbies is geology and we are periodically looking up leads to ancestors.
Mary is an accomplished sewer and has been sewing since she was young. I also know how to sew and have some patterns running around in my head. Although we could use some patterns and suggestions.
I have read that SCA encompasses a wider range of years than the Neville Companye and saw the difference at Fort Knox.
Mary and I have talked about having a sewing day with the Neville's some time this fall/winter. Maybe we could combine with SCA?
A neighbor of ours in Albion who is in the Neville's is planning a leather work day. Both Mary and I have worked with leather since Mary also has horses and their tack needs repair now and then.
Well enough for now,
Doug Saball
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Hello everyone,
Actually I have a bunch of questions but I will try to limit myself
to just a few right now.
Pattern questions: If we wanted to start with a basic cotehardie,
is there a pattern that would be best to use? How about something
for women, boys, girls? What about the undergarment? What
about "pants" for boys? I've looked at so many links by now, I am
just getting confused (not just from here.) Some of them seem
contradictory.
Material questions: Is wool "gabardine" appropriate?
How about material that has a pattern in the weave? Or any pattern
for that matter? My first thought is no but it could just be a
misconception on my part.
Needlework questions: For what time period is blackwork
appropriate? Again, I have found conflicting information.
I'll leave it at that for now.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Marge
Hi, Marge!
> Pattern questions: If we wanted to start with a basic cotehardie,
> is there a pattern that would be best to use?
I recommend this lady:
http://www.damehelen.com/cotes/index.html
She has lots of instructions and advice on cotehardies, and she bases her
pattern on a period garment. I'll put the link at the group site tonight.
> How about something for women, boys, girls? What about the undergarment?
What
> about "pants" for boys?
As I understand it, the cotehardie was long for women, and knee length or
shorter for men. They wore the same basic garment for a long time. Men
would have worn hose with it, I think. I think (for over-garments) men
would have worn a surcoat, and women a sideless surcoat.
If you want pants for boys (especially for boys who are still growing!) you
might want to simply go to JoAnn's Fabrics and grab some of their children's
costume patterns. My daughter's been growing so fast that I prefer to use
regular patterns, rather than keep re-draft a pattern every few months!
Simplicity does some fairly decent historical patterns, and JoAnn's will
occasionally do a sale where you can pick up patterns for $1 or $2 each.
As far as undergarments go, there's a variety of opinions on that. With the
dress so tightly fitted to your waist, you wouldn't want lots of fabric
underneath it. It might be something more like a 'smock' or 'shift', rather
than a 'chemise' (I think of the smock as being more fitted, the chemise as
loose and billowing, opinions vary). Most likely, men would have had a
similar garment.
>I've looked at so many links by now, I am
> just getting confused (not just from here.) Some of them seem
> contradictory.
And they are contradictory. The problem is we are working with paintings,
engravings, and manuscript illuminations - which vary the details of
garments according to the artist. (And they generally don't show the
undergarments at all.) When there is a period garment that can be examined,
it's a rare treat!
> Material questions: Is wool "gabardine" appropriate?
> How about material that has a pattern in the weave?
Wool is great, but some wool blends might trap in a lot of heat, so be
careful! They did use woven wool fabric for garments. Linen and silk
definitely, cotton is a great alternative. Try and stick with natural
fibers, they are generally more comfortable. Linen is extremely durable,
and just becomes softer and softer every time you wash it. If you are
looking for something inexpensive for undergarments, pick up some cotton
muslin (either white or 'natural'). I picked up a bolt of it on sale, and
it wound up being $0.88/yard. It makes great shirts and shifts/smocks!
> Needlework questions: For what time period is blackwork
> appropriate? Again, I have found conflicting information.
You can make a case for it back to Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. One of the
tales describes a woman's dress, and mentions her white undergarments
'wrought' with black silk thread. I don't think I've seen any portraits
earlier than maybe the mid-1400s. It really caught on in England in the
1500s. Then, it kind of fizzed out. Up through the mid-1500s, it was
mostly simple geometric embroidery at the neck and cuffs. In Tudor and
Elizabethan England, it truly became wearable art. Please note that any
single-color embroidery can be considered 'blackwork'. There are period
garments embroidered with blue silk, or red silk, instead of black silk
thread. I love silk thread, but for durability I've been using a cotton
embroidery floss. It doesn't bleed the color when I wash it!
Hope this was of some help,
Ysabiau
Ysabiau,
Thank you so much for your help. but first I want to
ask--and I hope I'm not being rude--if you could
explain the correct pronunciation of your name? I
think I have an idea but I would like to make sure I
have it right.
Thanks for the link to the cotehardie. It definitely
looks do-able.
I have several costume patterns mostly Simplicity,
including several "period" ones. (I don't believe my
kids have ever worn a store-bought cotume for
anything.) A few years ago, I made several costume
items from this page:
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm
including skirts, chemises, shirts, and pants for the
boys. Oh, and I made flat caps and coifs too. I had
made them in preparation for a Ren Faire that we were
all looking forward to going to, but my husband
(not-soon-enough-to-be-ex now) decided at the last
minute that we couldn't go. The kids ended up wearing
those clothes all the time on the farm because they
thought they were so comfortable. (I made them out of
100% cotton.) I think they wore them in a parade
also. (My husband wore his shirt haying that year and
loved it.) Would something like that be acceptable
for SCA?
I decided back then, that if I ended up making similar
clothes esp. for the boys again, they would have to be
linen--or something else a lot tougher than 100%
cotton. I had made the shirts out of 100% cotton
muslin that I bought at WalMart for 0.88/yd so they
were inexpensive to make, but didn't last long on two
active little boys esp. the pants. They kept
insisting that I mend them and I did, but although I
love sewing, I really hate mending.
How old is your daughter? I have a variety of sizes
(of daughters I mean) but haven't worried about the
little ones garb too much yet. Jossilyn won't be able
to attend events for quite awhile even when we do go
home--she had a bone marrow transplant in August and
her post-tranplant activities will be very limited for
6-9 months. (She can't be inside anywhere except
home, clinic, or hospital. That kind of thing.) So I
figure she will feel better if Kaylin and Josie stay
with her and Grammy.
In my questions about material, I should have
explained better. I am familiar with many types of
material. I love linen, but I have never been a big
fan of wool (unlike my sister Freida, who loves wool.)
But seeing as polar fleece is not period, I was
looking at wool--online of coure, because we are still
in hospital.
So I found this 100% wool "gabardine," but when I
think of gabardine for some reason I think of a
polyester blend kind of stuff that they make men's
suits out of. Now that just doesn't sound good to me,
but what is 100% wool gabardine? I guess my question
is, what is this material like? I also found wool
crepe, wool flannel, wool challis, wool tricotine,
and wool coating. Evidently, there is much more to
wool than I ever thought. (military blankets, hunting
pants and buffalo plaid coats!) What is acceptable
for period? I know my oldest are going to want to be
as authentic as possible. (I guess I need a lesson on
wool fabric!!)
I am actually more familiar with later period
clothing, i.e. Elizabethan, so I am gradually
exploring earlier periods. (Kind of working my way
backwards, in fact.) What periods is everyone else
doing? I would really love to see what everyone
is/has made.
Okay, I've rambled on long enough.
Thanks again,
Marge
--- Christine Wright <ysabiau@...> wrote:
> Hi, Marge!
>
> > Pattern questions: If we wanted to start with a
> basic cotehardie,
> > is there a pattern that would be best to use?
>
> I recommend this lady:
> http://www.damehelen.com/cotes/index.html
>
> She has lots of instructions and advice on
> cotehardies, and she bases her
> pattern on a period garment. I'll put the link at
> the group site tonight.
>
>
>
> > How about something for women, boys, girls? What
> about the undergarment?
> What
> > about "pants" for boys?
>
> As I understand it, the cotehardie was long for
> women, and knee length or
> shorter for men. They wore the same basic garment
> for a long time. Men
> would have worn hose with it, I think. I think (for
> over-garments) men
> would have worn a surcoat, and women a sideless
> surcoat.
>
> If you want pants for boys (especially for boys who
> are still growing!) you
> might want to simply go to JoAnn's Fabrics and grab
> some of their children's
> costume patterns. My daughter's been growing so
> fast that I prefer to use
> regular patterns, rather than keep re-draft a
> pattern every few months!
> Simplicity does some fairly decent historical
> patterns, and JoAnn's will
> occasionally do a sale where you can pick up
> patterns for $1 or $2 each.
>
> As far as undergarments go, there's a variety of
> opinions on that. With the
> dress so tightly fitted to your waist, you wouldn't
> want lots of fabric
> underneath it. It might be something more like a
> 'smock' or 'shift', rather
> than a 'chemise' (I think of the smock as being more
> fitted, the chemise as
> loose and billowing, opinions vary). Most likely,
> men would have had a
> similar garment.
>
> >I've looked at so many links by now, I am
> > just getting confused (not just from here.) Some
> of them seem
> > contradictory.
>
> And they are contradictory. The problem is we are
> working with paintings,
> engravings, and manuscript illuminations - which
> vary the details of
> garments according to the artist. (And they
> generally don't show the
> undergarments at all.) When there is a period
> garment that can be examined,
> it's a rare treat!
>
> > Material questions: Is wool "gabardine"
> appropriate?
> > How about material that has a pattern in the
> weave?
>
> Wool is great, but some wool blends might trap in a
> lot of heat, so be
> careful! They did use woven wool fabric for
> garments. Linen and silk
> definitely, cotton is a great alternative. Try and
> stick with natural
> fibers, they are generally more comfortable. Linen
> is extremely durable,
> and just becomes softer and softer every time you
> wash it. If you are
> looking for something inexpensive for undergarments,
> pick up some cotton
> muslin (either white or 'natural'). I picked up a
> bolt of it on sale, and
> it wound up being $0.88/yard. It makes great shirts
> and shifts/smocks!
>
> > Needlework questions: For what time period is
> blackwork
> > appropriate? Again, I have found conflicting
> information.
>
> You can make a case for it back to Chaucer's
> Canterbury Tales. One of the
> tales describes a woman's dress, and mentions her
> white undergarments
> 'wrought' with black silk thread. I don't think
> I've seen any portraits
> earlier than maybe the mid-1400s. It really caught
> on in England in the
> 1500s. Then, it kind of fizzed out. Up through the
> mid-1500s, it was
> mostly simple geometric embroidery at the neck and
> cuffs. In Tudor and
> Elizabethan England, it truly became wearable art.
> Please note that any
> single-color embroidery can be considered
> 'blackwork'. There are period
> garments embroidered with blue silk, or red silk,
> instead of black silk
> thread. I love silk thread, but for durability I've
> been using a cotton
> embroidery floss. It doesn't bleed the color when I
> wash it!
>
> Hope this was of some help,
> Ysabiau
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
Hello again,
> Thank you so much for your help. but first I want to
> ask--and I hope I'm not being rude--if you could
> explain the correct pronunciation of your name? I
That's not rude, believe me! It's Is-a-bo. The weird spelling comes from a
13th century french census.
>Would something like that be acceptable
> for SCA?
The costumes you made sound pretty workable. There are very few people (and
they are generally easy to avoid!) who will give you grief if you use things
that are not strictly accurate. Besides, a lot of people with children
would agree that keeping kids in clothes is enough work - as long as they
look good, and the kids will wear them, go with it!
> I decided back then, that if I ended up making similar
> clothes esp. for the boys again, they would have to be
> linen--or something else a lot tougher than 100%
> cotton.
If you can find cotton duck cloth (or a medium-weight twill) it will be
fairly durable for pants. I usually use that to make my fencing armor out
of, and it's comfortable. I forgot what kind of stress active kids put on
fabric. Your best bet might be a cotton-linen blend. That's actually
period! It was called 'fustian', I think.
> How old is your daughter?
Maddie will be 4 next month.
> Jossilyn won't be able
> to attend events for quite awhile even when we do go
Please accept our best wishes for a good recovery and return to health. I
wondered why you needed to be at the hospital, but didn't want to be pushy
and ask about it.
> But seeing as polar fleece is not period, I was
> looking at wool--online of coure, because we are still
Polar fleece isn't period, but a lot of people use it. I, for one, am
allergic to wool - it makes me itch and break out in hives. I have to have
one or two layers between it and my skin. People use polar fleece for
cloaks...especially since when it gets wet, it doesn't have that awful smell
to it! And some folks buy it because it's what they can afford. I can
sometimes get 60" wide polar fleece for $2 per yard. I can't get wool for
that price, and I'd rather save my pennies for decent linen!
I think the wool gabardine is a suit-type material, too. But, if it's 100%
wool, it's probably just fine. See if the place will send you samples of
the fabrics. I shopped for linen online, and a surprising number of places
were willing to send me samples so I could see how fine the linen was.
Failing that, take a few minutes and hit a local JoAnn's, and get some
samples from them. They should have a variety of wools out by now.
Good luck,
Ysabiau
Ysabiau - You're an angel! I've been wondering about
using polar fleece for cloak linings - I have to
replace mine after twenty-odd years. Now I can get to
it without bankrupting myself.
As a side note - A. C. Moore, the craft store, is now
open here in Bangor - today was the grand opening.
Mucho good stuff - alas, no fabric or trim.
Thanks,
Anne
--- Christine Wright <ysabiau@...> wrote:
> Hello again,
>
> > Thank you so much for your help. but first I want
> to
> > ask--and I hope I'm not being rude--if you could
> > explain the correct pronunciation of your name? I
>
> That's not rude, believe me! It's Is-a-bo. The
> weird spelling comes from a
> 13th century french census.
>
>
> >Would something like that be acceptable
> > for SCA?
>
> The costumes you made sound pretty workable. There
> are very few people (and
> they are generally easy to avoid!) who will give you
> grief if you use things
> that are not strictly accurate. Besides, a lot of
> people with children
> would agree that keeping kids in clothes is enough
> work - as long as they
> look good, and the kids will wear them, go with it!
>
>
> > I decided back then, that if I ended up making
> similar
> > clothes esp. for the boys again, they would have
> to be
> > linen--or something else a lot tougher than 100%
> > cotton.
>
> If you can find cotton duck cloth (or a
> medium-weight twill) it will be
> fairly durable for pants. I usually use that to
> make my fencing armor out
> of, and it's comfortable. I forgot what kind of
> stress active kids put on
> fabric. Your best bet might be a cotton-linen
> blend. That's actually
> period! It was called 'fustian', I think.
>
>
>
> > How old is your daughter?
>
> Maddie will be 4 next month.
>
> > Jossilyn won't be able
> > to attend events for quite awhile even when we do
> go
>
> Please accept our best wishes for a good recovery
> and return to health. I
> wondered why you needed to be at the hospital, but
> didn't want to be pushy
> and ask about it.
>
>
> > But seeing as polar fleece is not period, I was
> > looking at wool--online of coure, because we are
> still
>
> Polar fleece isn't period, but a lot of people use
> it. I, for one, am
> allergic to wool - it makes me itch and break out in
> hives. I have to have
> one or two layers between it and my skin. People
> use polar fleece for
> cloaks...especially since when it gets wet, it
> doesn't have that awful smell
> to it! And some folks buy it because it's what they
> can afford. I can
> sometimes get 60" wide polar fleece for $2 per yard.
> I can't get wool for
> that price, and I'd rather save my pennies for
> decent linen!
>
> I think the wool gabardine is a suit-type material,
> too. But, if it's 100%
> wool, it's probably just fine. See if the place
> will send you samples of
> the fabrics. I shopped for linen online, and a
> surprising number of places
> were willing to send me samples so I could see how
> fine the linen was.
> Failing that, take a few minutes and hit a local
> JoAnn's, and get some
> samples from them. They should have a variety of
> wools out by now.
>
> Good luck,
> Ysabiau
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Christine Wright"
<ysabiau@u...> wrote:
>
> That's not rude, believe me! It's Is-a-bo. The weird spelling
comes from a> 13th century french census.
Hi,
I figured it was something French similar to 'Isabelle.'
> would agree that keeping kids in clothes is enough work - as long
as they
> look good, and the kids will wear them, go with it!
As long as it's comfortable and not too "flashy" my boys will were
just about anything. But when they hear "hose" they think "tights"
and they aren't too sure about that idea.
> Maddie will be 4 next month.
Kaylin was 4 last month. She's very fussy about what she wears--
nothing too "choky" or tight or itchy--and somes of the things she
deems as such most people would never think would be. (Jacob was
like that too--still is actually.)
> Please accept our best wishes for a good recovery and return to
health. I
> wondered why you needed to be at the hospital, but didn't want to
be pushy
> and ask about it.
Thank you for your positive thoughts. We accept them in whatever
form offered whether it be good wishes, positive energy, prayer or
what-have-you. It's all good. And I wouldn't think you pushy for
asking. Her cancer and its treatment has really had a huge impact
on our lives since her diagnosis in May, and sometimes I forget to
whom I've told what. It is not a "touchy" subject for me, just a
fact. Which is not to say it has not been difficult. But we try to
keep life as normal as possible and treat her cancer as just one
more thing we have to take care of. I am so proud of her strength.
She has tolerated treatment so well, and has really kept her spirits
up when lots of kids get really depressed. We have been very lucky
in that even though she has a serious illness, she has not been as
sick as a lot of kids get.
> Polar fleece isn't period, but a lot of people use it.
So I guess I can use my floor length cloak I made of black polar
fleece a few years ago? I used to be able to buy fleece by the
pound at a place in New Sharon for between $1-$4/lb. (I've made
blankets, hats, costumes, jackets, you name it...)
>I, for one, am
> allergic to wool - it makes me itch and break out in hives.
I have been reading about this, and have found several sources that
state that most people who think they are allergic to wool are
actually allergic to the chemicals it is treated with when it is
processed. Apparently, this is often corrected by washing the wool
a few times--not with Woolite, one source suggested baby shampoo. I
don't know if this is true or not, but am willing to try it myself.
It seems plausible to me, because I have found a few wool things
that I have been able to wear. What do you think?
> wool, it's probably just fine. See if the place will send you
samples of
> the fabrics.
That's what I thought I'd do, if I found something I thought I'd
like. I don't like to buy something like material without feeling
it and seeing it in person.
Were there any particular sites where you found reasonable prices on
good linen? I have checked out several sites but I'm always looking
for the best deal (not necessarily the cheapest, mind you, just the
best deal.)
Thanks yet again for your assistance!
Marge
Hi -
I've put together a file on some of the patterns I've found. Please
Ysabiau, Gwen, Kim, others take a look at it and let me know if
something doesn't look right. I think I'll go back into it and list
the dates of the different styles later. Thanks.
I'm Catelin Tredheves (mka Kelley). I'm still quite new to everything
SCAdian and still trying to figure out the difference between a
cotehardie and a kirtle. But, I'm having fun in the process. I raise
sheep and would love to bring one to an event some time, but I don't
know how that would go over... Besides trying to find something nice
to wear to future events, I'm working on becoming a chirugeon. I teach
CPR and first aid in the mundane world so it seems like a natural
extension. I am also enjoying whatever dancing is happening. Part of
the fun the last few months has been trying to navigate through all of
the new things - dances, costumes, names, events, etc.
Thanks,
Cate
Cait -
As Autocrat of the Hunt - I can let you know that pets are welcome as
long as they are leashed or caged (or corralled....) So....well..I'd
call sheep pets, right? ;)
Aneleda
--- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Kelley" <kelley_rambo@a...>
wrote:
> I'm Catelin Tredheves (mka Kelley). I'm still quite new to
everything
> SCAdian and still trying to figure out the difference between a
> cotehardie and a kirtle. But, I'm having fun in the process. I
raise
> sheep and would love to bring one to an event some time, but I don't
> know how that would go over...
--- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Kelley"
<kelley_rambo@a...> wrote:
> I'm Catelin Tredheves (mka Kelley). I'm still quite new to
everything
> SCAdian and still trying to figure out the difference between a
> cotehardie and a kirtle.
Cate,
I wonder that also. On this site:
http://www.historical-costumes.net/glos1.htm
it said "Cotehardie: A "supertunic" or upper gown worn throughout
the 14th century by both sexes. While the kirtle, which was usually
worn by women under the cotehardie, followed the body line down to
the hips, cotehardie was mostly wide and flimsy, made of thick and
expensive materials. It was usually made of brocade or embroidered
and at one point so called heraldic cotehardie was popular, with the
heraldic motives or coat of arms of the wearer ebroidered or sewn
into it."
and "Kirtle: A simple dress used mostly in 14th and 15th century as
an informal garment or undergown"
But I don't know if that really helps. I have read varying
definitions in different places which may be explained by time
periods and locations. (Could be it just depends on which word you
like the sound of better.<grin>)
> I raise
> sheep and would love to bring one to an event some time, but I
don't
> know how that would go over...
My daughter Kelsey wants me to say that she would like to meet your
sheep. (We were organic farmers before my husband and I separated.
She misses the animals, although she never actually had sheep--her
dad "didn't want to mess with them" or goats)
Marge (still looking for an SCA name)
Analeda -
I will keep that in mind for future events. I don't know how organized
I'll be by Oct. unfortunately. Oh, yes, mine are definately pets.
Marge -
Kelsey is welcome to see the sheep anytime. They are in Liberty at the
moment.
Cate
I have a copy of The Medieval Tailor's Assistant by Sarah Thursfield
that I acquired a few years back. My almost-ex-husband just released
it from hostage status. I never actually used it and I believe it is
out of print now, but it had received positive reviews on Amazon. Do
any of you know this book? If so, what do you think? I also have a
book by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy, Elizabethan Costuming for the
years 1550-1580. Both seem accurate but I am no expert on the
subject.
Since I am still in Boston with Jossilyn, I am going to look at them
more in depth this week. (My almost-ex brought them down this weekend
when he came to visit Joss.) We may be released to Ronald MacDonald
House here in Boston this week which is one step closer to home. If
anyone is interested, I would be more than willing to share them when
we finally get back home.
Marge
They are good books to have, especially the Medieval Tailor's Assistant. I
have heard lots of good reviews of it.
-Ysabiau
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge Adams" <jorie6568@...>
To: <EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 10:46 PM
Subject: [EndeweardeTailor] What do you think of this book?
> I have a copy of The Medieval Tailor's Assistant by Sarah Thursfield
> that I acquired a few years back. My almost-ex-husband just released
> it from hostage status. I never actually used it and I believe it is
> out of print now, but it had received positive reviews on Amazon. Do
> any of you know this book? If so, what do you think? I also have a
> book by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy, Elizabethan Costuming for the
> years 1550-1580. Both seem accurate but I am no expert on the
> subject.
>
> Since I am still in Boston with Jossilyn, I am going to look at them
> more in depth this week. (My almost-ex brought them down this weekend
> when he came to visit Joss.) We may be released to Ronald MacDonald
> House here in Boston this week which is one step closer to home. If
> anyone is interested, I would be more than willing to share them when
> we finally get back home.
>
> Marge
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Marge -
I would love to have a look at it when you return home and find time.
It is still in print.
We had Ronald McDonald houses where I grew up - we used to volunteer to
make cookies for the families there on occasion. I hope all goes well.
Cate
I am finally back from our trip and I am finally introducing myself to
the newbies. I am still a newbie myself. I just got involved in the
spring so things are all still new to me as well. I havn't even come
up with a name for myself as of yet. I live in Fairfield with my
husband(Roland or Ryan in the mundane world) and my little
girl(Elizabeth). I seem to be most interested in late period stuff
and I still have a lot to learn. I will probably be hosting some of
the tailor meetings--speaking of--do we want to meet anytime soon?
Kim
A meeting would be great! But when? For me, the next few weekends are very
busy. Weekday afternoons or evenings would work best. I can also offer to
host a meeting either in October or November, if folks wouldn't mind driving
to Unity.
-Ysabiau
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim" <kabergmann@...>
To: <EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 9:06 AM
Subject: [EndeweardeTailor] Hello all
> I am finally back from our trip and I am finally introducing myself to
> the newbies. I am still a newbie myself. I just got involved in the
> spring so things are all still new to me as well. I havn't even come
> up with a name for myself as of yet. I live in Fairfield with my
> husband(Roland or Ryan in the mundane world) and my little
> girl(Elizabeth). I seem to be most interested in late period stuff
> and I still have a lot to learn. I will probably be hosting some of
> the tailor meetings--speaking of--do we want to meet anytime soon?
>
> Kim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I would love to meet with you all! However, I am still in Boston
with Jossilyn for a couple more weeks. (She is doing very well by
the way.) Hopefully we will be home by mid-Oct--actually I am still
hoping to make it to the Hunt, though Jossil will be unable to
attend (post-transplant restrictions.)
Marge
--- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Christine Wright"
<ysabiau@u...> wrote:
> A meeting would be great! But when? For me, the next few
weekends are very
> busy. Weekday afternoons or evenings would work best. I can also
offer to
> host a meeting either in October or November, if folks wouldn't
mind driving
> to Unity.
>
> -Ysabiau
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kim" <kabergmann@a...>
> To: <EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 9:06 AM
> Subject: [EndeweardeTailor] Hello all
>
>
> > I am finally back from our trip and I am finally introducing
myself to
> > the newbies. I am still a newbie myself. I just got involved
in the
> > spring so things are all still new to me as well. I havn't even
come
> > up with a name for myself as of yet. I live in Fairfield with my
> > husband(Roland or Ryan in the mundane world) and my little
> > girl(Elizabeth). I seem to be most interested in late period
stuff
> > and I still have a lot to learn. I will probably be hosting
some of
> > the tailor meetings--speaking of--do we want to meet anytime
soon?
> >
> > Kim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
How about we meet sometime during the week after the hunt? Unless
someone has a project they are working on for the hunt. Currently I
am available any time on Monday, Thursday or Friday of that week. It
would be great to get as many of us together as possible.
Kim
--- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Marge Adams"
<jorie6568@y...> wrote:
> I would love to meet with you all! However, I am still in Boston
> with Jossilyn for a couple more weeks. (She is doing very well by
> the way.) Hopefully we will be home by mid-Oct--actually I am still
> hoping to make it to the Hunt, though Jossil will be unable to
> attend (post-transplant restrictions.)
>
> Marge
>
> --- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Christine Wright"
> <ysabiau@u...> wrote:
> > A meeting would be great! But when? For me, the next few
> weekends are very
> > busy. Weekday afternoons or evenings would work best. I can also
> offer to
> > host a meeting either in October or November, if folks wouldn't
> mind driving
> > to Unity.
> >
> > -Ysabiau
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kim" <kabergmann@a...>
> > To: <EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 9:06 AM
> > Subject: [EndeweardeTailor] Hello all
> >
> >
> > > I am finally back from our trip and I am finally introducing
> myself to
> > > the newbies. I am still a newbie myself. I just got involved
> in the
> > > spring so things are all still new to me as well. I havn't even
> come
> > > up with a name for myself as of yet. I live in Fairfield with my
> > > husband(Roland or Ryan in the mundane world) and my little
> > > girl(Elizabeth). I seem to be most interested in late period
> stuff
> > > and I still have a lot to learn. I will probably be hosting
> some of
> > > the tailor meetings--speaking of--do we want to meet anytime
> soon?
> > >
> > > Kim
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
I was hoping to get something together these past two weeks in the event that Peter and I were able to attend the hunt, but it seemed everything got in the way (even two days of the flue - so far).
Peter and I attended Lord Goodrich’s archery practice last Tuesday and Peter is hooked!! Mary, my wife, has graciously allowed me a few 1/4+ sides of leather that is a bit too thick for her to use for horse tack. I am planning on making a few quivers, archer's pouches, belts, etc.
I was hoping to make a (or two) simple tunic(s) this weekend. But as of yet Mary has not taken the time to pull appropriate material. Friday she did pull her plaid and there is about 2 yards of brown. Not enough to make the 15 yard kilt that could have been warn by Mary's ancestor Sir Roger le Poer of 1066.
Actually I have not picked an ancestor (found over 12 from both our lines in the Middle Ages), nor the persona. Peter wants to be an archer, and I may also be an archer part of the time. I would rather be a luither (maker of musical instruments) and player of the instruments for my persona. But this may be more in the future since I need to make some of the tools and get some hard wood, etc. In 1982 I made a hammered dulcimer, and a mountain dulcimer. The hammered dulcimer is in need of repair and I never truly learned how to play it.
Well, bake to the sewing night; I am interested so I can start to get our “kit” together.Presently, Tuesdays are for archery & bard guild (when it starts up again), Wednesday is church and Neville Company youth group (War of the Roses), Sunday is mostly taken by church (morning & evening).Otherwise I might be able to attend.BTW. I have done some hand stitching & embroidery (long story).But I have not done much machine sewing, although Mary has 3 machines (not sure if all work).
Doug Saball
Unity, ME
Kim wrote:
How about we meet sometime during the week after the hunt? Unless someone has a project they are working on for the hunt. Currently I am available any time on Monday, Thursday or Friday of that week. It would be great to get as many of us together as possible.
If we are back home, Kelsey and I will come!!
Marge
--- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Kim" <kabergmann@a...>
wrote:
> How about we meet sometime during the week after the hunt? Unless
> someone has a project they are working on for the hunt. Currently
I
> am available any time on Monday, Thursday or Friday of that week.
It
> would be great to get as many of us together as possible.
>
> Kim
>
>
> --- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Marge Adams"
> <jorie6568@y...> wrote:
> > I would love to meet with you all! However, I am still in
Boston
> > with Jossilyn for a couple more weeks. (She is doing very well
by
> > the way.) Hopefully we will be home by mid-Oct--actually I am
still
> > hoping to make it to the Hunt, though Jossil will be unable to
> > attend (post-transplant restrictions.)
> >
> > Marge
> >
> > --- In EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com, "Christine Wright"
> > <ysabiau@u...> wrote:
> > > A meeting would be great! But when? For me, the next few
> > weekends are very
> > > busy. Weekday afternoons or evenings would work best. I can
also
> > offer to
> > > host a meeting either in October or November, if folks
wouldn't
> > mind driving
> > > to Unity.
> > >
> > > -Ysabiau
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Kim" <kabergmann@a...>
> > > To: <EndeweardeTailor@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 9:06 AM
> > > Subject: [EndeweardeTailor] Hello all
> > >
> > >
> > > > I am finally back from our trip and I am finally introducing
> > myself to
> > > > the newbies. I am still a newbie myself. I just got
involved
> > in the
> > > > spring so things are all still new to me as well. I havn't
even
> > come
> > > > up with a name for myself as of yet. I live in Fairfield
with my
> > > > husband(Roland or Ryan in the mundane world) and my little
> > > > girl(Elizabeth). I seem to be most interested in late
period
> > stuff
> > > > and I still have a lot to learn. I will probably be hosting
> > some of
> > > > the tailor meetings--speaking of--do we want to meet anytime
> > soon?
> > > >
> > > > Kim
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
I would never have believed it but I have almost completed an entirely
handsewn smock. I have never handsewn anything in my life but I
taught myself how to do the seam-and-fell seam from the Medieval
Tailor's Assistant since I am stuck here in Boston with no sewing
machine. I also taught Kelsey(14) and Jossilyn(8) who are also both
working on smocks. Kaleb(11) has learned the technique too.
If anyone had ever tried to tell me that I would ENJOY sewing
something by hand, I would have thought they were nuts, but there it
is.
Kaleb is anxious to get started on his Mongol clothing. Does anyone
know where I can find some good sources for that, including a
discussion of appropriate fabric--other that silk?
Thanks everyone!
Marge
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