--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "buffaloman97405"
<buffaloman97405@y...> wrote:
> I'm trying to find elmer's vert. Twin wobbler with reverse plans.
> The one that looks similar to Cheddar's twin wobblers. Needs to
> be pdf.
>
> Bill
Added to files
Martin
Hello: Just another novice machinist have a lot of fun trying not to
destroy but to make something. My present project is a horizontal
steam engine from a kit, maybe 50%.
Good luck brought me a nice 13 X 40 Gap bed, geared head lathe and a
full size knee mill. Gradually acquiring tooling as my learning curve
improves. Nice to have 'hands on' experience with those things I've
read in magazines for years.
My remote location in Central California puts the local clubs, etc. out
of reach so groups like this are priceless. I am very pleased to be a
member.
I have just joined your ranks from the "little engine group".I'm a green model engineer although I have done a lot of rather delicate woodworking making wooden model ships that have been in museums and such.I've been into that for over twenty years and needed a change<g>.I think I will try to make Elmer's # 24 as my first engine and then I don't know what.I have just ordered the "Grasshopper" engine from Brunell in England and it should arrive soon.I know better than to dig into that beauty untill I learn a heck of a lot more than I know now<g>.
I live near Sarnia Ontario Canada and have trouble getting around due to a disability but still try to do something in my shop.I've made enough money over the last couple of years to buy a new mid size knee milling machine from the 626 family.I also picked up a fine SouthBend Heavy Ten from a local machinist.I love that machine<g>It's as old as I am.Well that's a short intro to myself and I hope to meet some of you and I'll try not to ask to many silly questions<g>.Thanks for reading.
There are several in the book, but this is the one just called "Beam".
Just finished it a few days ago; runs fine.
If anyone else is thinking of (or currently) making this one, feel
free to ask me about any of the difficult bits. I don't think I did
anything very innovative in constructing it, but while it's fresh in
my mind I'll be happy to talk about what I did.
Regards,
Jeff E.
This SOB managed to join today and post this SPAM at the same time!!
I slipped up on my Quorn Owners 2, and got one of these there as well, but I
deleted his crap, kicked him off the group, and made it a moderated group.
This is why you need to make every group moderated Dirk. I think I've gotten 4
of the same email on various groups this morning.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: aceshl [mailto:aceshl@...]
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:23 AM
To: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elmers_Engines_1] IF YOU WANT TO SELL Models and Model Kits
List all your Models and kits here with free Basic listing
and AUTO-RELIST UNTIL SOLD option and relax. You can even open your
Free e-Store
Fred
List all your Models and kits here with free Basic listing
and AUTO-RELIST UNTIL SOLD option and relax. You can even open your
Free e-Store
http://www.sellatonce.com/portal/model-kits.htm
Fred
Thanks I just tried again and got all but the last one.... Tomorrow
is another day and I really appreciate these plans they are
GREAT!!!!!
Thanks for your time... Ron
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "Carl Carlsen"
<kd7bfn@e...> wrote:
>
> From: sr71_bb2001
> >I have been trying to download the plans from
> >the file section and was successful for ...
>
> >Any idea what the problem is?? (I am definitely
> >not new to computers)... Ron
>
> Yup, Yahoo 'overload'. Try again tomorrow ... you will probably
get some of
> them and then get locked out again because you have exceeded
Yahoo's parameters
> for downloading .... whatever that is ??? Do a few every day
and you will get
> them all .... I think it took me 4 days to download them all ....
maybe 5 ?
>
> Carl
From: sr71_bb2001
>I have been trying to download the plans from
>the file section and was successful for ...
>Any idea what the problem is?? (I am definitely
>not new to computers)... Ron
Yup, Yahoo 'overload'. Try again tomorrow ... you will probably get some of
them and then get locked out again because you have exceeded Yahoo's parameters
for downloading .... whatever that is ??? Do a few every day and you will get
them all .... I think it took me 4 days to download them all .... maybe 5 ?
Carl
Hi,
I am a new member and I have been trying to download the plans from
the file section and was successful for about six and then I started
getting an IE error trying to open the website? I get the same
error even if I try and downlaod a previously successful zip
file... Perhaps a bandwidth limit imposed by Yahoo for downloads is
locking me out. Any idea what the problem is?? (I am definitely
not new to computers)... Ron
WHOOPS..............
Dick Tollenaar may have had something to do with it also.....
[Sorry Dick.........]
Regards.........Rodg
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "Rodger Pease"
<rodger010451@y...> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I believe that your thanks should be directed to Lee Davis or Dave
> Hylands (or both). A great couple of guys there, not to mention
the
>
> >
Fred,
I believe that your thanks should be directed to Lee Davis or Dave
Hylands (or both). A great couple of guys there, not to mention the
other members.
I finally got my copy of Elmer's great book. It's a shame that he
didn't live long enough to build more, but he did pretty good for
the time he was here.
Good luck in your building...........
Regards,
Rodg
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, fred schneider
<fdschtower@y...> wrote:
> Hey,
> I have been searching for a copy of Elmer's engines for about 8
months now. I happened across this forum and Puff!!! there are the
files. What a great thing! I assume this is the total content of
the book that I can't find? Thanks to whoever scanned all that in
and put the time and effort into it. I had heard through the grape
vine that it was a dynamite book but never saw it. I went onto
several search lists for people to find it but so far no success.
Thanks to who ever. Fred
>
I have been searching for a copy of Elmer's engines for about 8 months now. I happened across this forum and Puff!!! there are the files. What a great thing! I assume this is the total content of the book that I can't find? Thanks to whoever scanned all that in and put the time and effort into it. I had heard through the grape vine that it was a dynamite book but never saw it. I went onto several search lists for people to find it but so far no success. Thanks to who ever. Fred
I'm building the Wooden beam engine in chapter 1
and am wondering about the "gland" on top of the cylinder.
(see page 7)
Can anyone tell me
Is this part just decorative?
If functional would it need packing?
How to machine oval base of gland with Taig lathe with milling
attachment?
Thanks Guys (Anyone else building?)
Thanks Joe, and you others that tried to explain it to me; I FINALLY
got it through my head that the bottom of the cylinder doesn't need
to seal.
Boy, once I get a wrong idea in my head, I sure do run with it...
JE
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
<dgray108@s...> wrote:
>
> --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
<dgray108@s...>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
<jeastwoo@e...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > #24. And my previous correction is also wrong! I think you will
> > want
> > > to drill the valve first, then turn the stud, but that will
still
> > > leave a bite out of the top of the stud.
> > >
> > > --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
> > > <dgray108@s...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
> > > <jeastwoo@e...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I've started on this, and have a question for those who've
> > built
> > > one
> > > > > or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the
way it
> > > is?
> > > > > It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and
takes a
> > > bit
> > > > > out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud.
The
> > > > > drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both
ends
> > of
> > > the
> > > > > cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through
hole. I
> > > > > don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry
> > about
> > > the
> > > > > quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and
the
> > > surface
> > > > > of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one
can
> > > make
> > > > > this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas?
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff E.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > What page number?
> >
> > Hey Jeff:
> >
> > I am by no means an expert on these things but here are my
thoughts
> >
> > #1) (check out the sectioned view of the cly. above the letter b
in
> > the word beam on page 102) Here the valve is shown with the cyl.
on
> > the upstroke. steam from the previous stroke is discharged out
the top
> > of the valve tube.
> >
> > #2) on the downstroke steam is allowed in from the top and "old"
steam
> > from the previous stroke is released out the bottom
> >
> > #3) You don't need a seal on the bottom of the valve tube, in
fact it
> > has to open to allow exhast.
> >
> > Sorry for the spelling. Hope this helps. Good luck
>
> One more thought
>
> Check out top left page 7. (This is the engine I'm trying) Here the
> valve tube is just that, an open tube. All the action takes place
> between the two valves. The open top and bottom are just for
exhaust.
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000" <dgray108@s...>
wrote:
>
> --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm" <jeastwoo@e...>
> wrote:
> >
> > #24. And my previous correction is also wrong! I think you will
> want
> > to drill the valve first, then turn the stud, but that will still
> > leave a bite out of the top of the stud.
> >
> > --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
> > <dgray108@s...> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
> > <jeastwoo@e...>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I've started on this, and have a question for those who've
> built
> > one
> > > > or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it
> > is?
> > > > It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a
> > bit
> > > > out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
> > > > drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends
> of
> > the
> > > > cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
> > > > don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry
> about
> > the
> > > > quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the
> > surface
> > > > of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can
> > make
> > > > this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas?
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > >
> > > > Jeff E.
> > >
> > >
> > > What page number?
>
> Hey Jeff:
>
> I am by no means an expert on these things but here are my thoughts
>
> #1) (check out the sectioned view of the cly. above the letter b in
> the word beam on page 102) Here the valve is shown with the cyl. on
> the upstroke. steam from the previous stroke is discharged out the top
> of the valve tube.
>
> #2) on the downstroke steam is allowed in from the top and "old" steam
> from the previous stroke is released out the bottom
>
> #3) You don't need a seal on the bottom of the valve tube, in fact it
> has to open to allow exhast.
>
> Sorry for the spelling. Hope this helps. Good luck
One more thought
Check out top left page 7. (This is the engine I'm trying) Here the
valve tube is just that, an open tube. All the action takes place
between the two valves. The open top and bottom are just for exhaust.
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm" <jeastwoo@e...>
wrote:
>
> #24. And my previous correction is also wrong! I think you will
want
> to drill the valve first, then turn the stud, but that will still
> leave a bite out of the top of the stud.
>
> --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
> <dgray108@s...> wrote:
> >
> > --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
> <jeastwoo@e...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I've started on this, and have a question for those who've
built
> one
> > > or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it
> is?
> > > It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a
> bit
> > > out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
> > > drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends
of
> the
> > > cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
> > > don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry
about
> the
> > > quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the
> surface
> > > of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can
> make
> > > this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Jeff E.
> >
> >
> > What page number?
Hey Jeff:
I am by no means an expert on these things but here are my thoughts
#1) (check out the sectioned view of the cly. above the letter b in
the word beam on page 102) Here the valve is shown with the cyl. on
the upstroke. steam from the previous stroke is discharged out the top
of the valve tube.
#2) on the downstroke steam is allowed in from the top and "old" steam
from the previous stroke is released out the bottom
#3) You don't need a seal on the bottom of the valve tube, in fact it
has to open to allow exhast.
Sorry for the spelling. Hope this helps. Good luck
#24. And my previous correction is also wrong! I think you will want
to drill the valve first, then turn the stud, but that will still
leave a bite out of the top of the stud.
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
<dgray108@s...> wrote:
>
> --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
<jeastwoo@e...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I've started on this, and have a question for those who've built
one
> > or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it
is?
> > It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a
bit
> > out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
> > drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends of
the
> > cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
> > don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry about
the
> > quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the
surface
> > of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can
make
> > this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff E.
>
>
> What page number?
#24. And my previous correction is also wrong! I think you will want
to drill the valve first, then turn the stud, but that will still
leave a bite out of the top of the stud.
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "joe0652000"
<dgray108@s...> wrote:
>
> --- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
<jeastwoo@e...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I've started on this, and have a question for those who've built
one
> > or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it
is?
> > It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a
bit
> > out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
> > drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends of
the
> > cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
> > don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry about
the
> > quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the
surface
> > of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can
make
> > this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff E.
>
>
> What page number?
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm" <jeastwoo@e...>
wrote:
>
> I've started on this, and have a question for those who've built one
> or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it is?
> It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a bit
> out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
> drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends of the
> cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
> don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry about the
> quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the surface
> of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can make
> this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff E.
What page number?
Correction: I don't expect that the intent is to take a bite out of
the side of the mounting stud; rather, you are probably supposed to
drill the valve guide first, then turn down the hex cylinder to form
the stud.
Still, you have the seal between base of cylinder and base of the
engibe to contend with.
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "jeastwoodlm"
<jeastwoo@e...> wrote:
>
> I've started on this, and have a question for those who've built
one
> or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it is?
> It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a bit
> out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
> drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends of
the
> cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
> don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry about
the
> quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the surface
> of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can make
> this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff E.
I've started on this, and have a question for those who've built one
or studied the plans: why is the valve hole designed the way it is?
It goes all the way through the hex cyclinder body, and takes a bit
out of the side of the 1/4" diam cyclinder mounting stud. The
drawing is a little unclear to me, but it does show both ends of the
cylinder; the hole for the valve is definitely a through hole. I
don't see the advantage in this, as you then have to worry about the
quality of the seal between the end of the cylinder and the surface
of the base. I haven't done the analysis yet to see if one can make
this a somewhat shorter blind hole.
Any ideas?
Regards,
Jeff E.
Thanks Dave
Lee
--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Hylands"
<dhylands@b...> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Lee and I noticed that Chapters 34 & 35 were both in the 35 zip
file,
> and 41 and 42 were both in the 42 zip file (or something like that).
>
> So I split the zip files into the appropriate pieces and uploaded
them
> into the Elmers_Engines_3 group. If you've downloaded all of the
files
> already, then you probably have all the right files. Check the page
> numbers and see if you're missing any pages.
>
> Chapter 34 is pages 147-154
> Chapter 35 is pages 155-159
>
> Chapter 41 is pages 193-197
> Chapter 42 is pages 198-202
>
> So if you have all of the pages, then you're not missing anything.
>
> This email is being sent to all the groups so that a message gets
posted
> every now and then (Yahoo wants to see one message very 90 days).
>
> --
> Dave Hylands
> Vancouver, BC, Canada
> http://www.DaveHylands.com/
Dave,
As I had some problems with reading tiff files on my linux, I've
written a small shell that converts the different folders and included
tiff files to one pdf file per .zip file. If you think this can be
of help to the group, please let me know. By the way, thanks for the
files. Really nice reading.
Regards,
Geert
Dave Hylands wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Lee and I noticed that Chapters 34 & 35 were both in the 35 zip file,
> and 41 and 42 were both in the 42 zip file (or something like that).
>
> So I split the zip files into the appropriate pieces and uploaded them
> into the Elmers_Engines_3 group. If you've downloaded all of the files
> already, then you probably have all the right files. Check the page
> numbers and see if you're missing any pages.
>
> Chapter 34 is pages 147-154
> Chapter 35 is pages 155-159
>
> Chapter 41 is pages 193-197
> Chapter 42 is pages 198-202
>
> So if you have all of the pages, then you're not missing anything.
>
> This email is being sent to all the groups so that a message gets posted
> every now and then (Yahoo wants to see one message very 90 days).
>
> --
> Dave Hylands
> Vancouver, BC, Canada
> http://www.DaveHylands.com/
>
>
> *Yahoo! Groups Sponsor*
> ADVERTISEMENT
> click here
>
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>
Hi Everyone,
Lee and I noticed that Chapters 34 & 35 were both in the 35 zip file,
and 41 and 42 were both in the 42 zip file (or something like that).
So I split the zip files into the appropriate pieces and uploaded them
into the Elmers_Engines_3 group. If you've downloaded all of the files
already, then you probably have all the right files. Check the page
numbers and see if you're missing any pages.
Chapter 34 is pages 147-154
Chapter 35 is pages 155-159
Chapter 41 is pages 193-197
Chapter 42 is pages 198-202
So if you have all of the pages, then you're not missing anything.
This email is being sent to all the groups so that a message gets posted
every now and then (Yahoo wants to see one message very 90 days).
--
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada
http://www.DaveHylands.com/
First of all let me say a big thankyou for the wonderful content the
Elmers sites provide.
The engine in chapter 13 calls for a product called "Permatex"
can anyone tell me what this is?
Thanks again
This group is dedicated to Elmer Verburg and his book Elmer's Engines.
This site show many of the fine miniature steam engine plans he
provided. There are 4 groups, Elmers_Engines_1, Elmers_Engines_2,
Elmers_Engines_3, and Elmers_Engines_4. They all contain various
steam engine plans. The group Elmers_Engines_4 also contains a folder
named shop_wisdom. This folder contains various bits of shop wisdom
as well as the Table of Contents and Appendix for all of the steam
engines. We hope that you will find this group useful. Please offer
your messages indicating which plans you like and any changes you
have made while building any of the engines.